Eric that's awesome I'm glad everything went well and you not letting anything stop you. I donated my best friend/brothers organs after his head got crushed wearing a helmet when are Yamaha Rhino upper arm failed at 60 MPH causing it to rollover crushing his head between the asphalt road and roll cage. His organs went to 7 different people saving there lives. Hardest decision I have ever made in my life but knowing that he helped 7 people it was the best decision I have ever made.
Those little four-wheelers are very dangerous. I myself do not think I will ever own one or allow my kids to ride them. I almost got killed on a lawn tractor which turned quick and started rolling down a steep hill and luckily I was thrown clear. Another TH-cam channel are man and wife working on their land the wife came home to find her husband trapped under his four-wheeler yard tractor. There's a reason that come with seat belts and roll over protection.
Whenever you use the brakes. The left front on the trailer gets all the power. By the time it gets to the right rear, there's no power left. Whenever I rewire a trailer, I mount an electrical box center of trailer and centered between axles. Run 4 equal length wires to the brakes. All brakes get equal power and work better.
Robert, just be thankful that you have the knowledge and skills that you can do most of the work yourself. I believe I would put a for sale sign on the trailer. Keep up the hard work. Be safe out there. 👍🙏🇱🇷
Hey Robert Those scotch lock connectors are junk for trailers as they are not weather proof. You really need to be heat shrink butt connectors if you want those connections to last. I wodk on traileras all the time and never use tbem for that reason. Keep up the great work.
Scotch locks are terrible for weather. Probably last 6 months at most. Please use shrink connects if you dont solder and shrink. Good luck, I like how you work.
those connectors are crap i borrowed a small box trailer and the lights weren't all working and found issue being one of them so i ripped it off and soldered the wires and they work perfect now dont understand why he still uses them unless he is being lazy
He’s either not reading our replies or thinks his viewers are stupid. Anyone with a lick of common sense knows those scotchlocks judt lead to more issues. I guess he likes crawling around at night in piss coated parking lots trying to fix his screwups.
I agree the best way to go would be solder with heat shrink if you don't plan on changing the wiring anytime soon. I use the Scotch lock connectors every 6 months. Cut off the old and stick in the new one put a little liquid electrical tape on the bottom of them all good spring and fall. The key is just stay ahead of it keep doing it every 6 months packing bearings and its cheaper to buy back plates than brake shoes and magnets and more aggravating 5 screws and you're done and everything while it's still cool outside spring and fall. And you got to keep those wires tight don't let them flop around they get ice on them. It's just easier for me this way to each his own.
I could become a Jack of all trades just from watching your videos.. I enjoy the repairs and everything else. Always learning something new. Stay safe.
Me too, the comments sections are the best you can usually learn a lot from some people's opinions. Seems like most people own trailers of one sort or another and we could all experience these problems.
I pulled a lowboy for over 35 years let and old timer give you some advice every place you spliced that wire you need to put a junction box they are sealed and cheap the way you did it you will always have problems even time they get wet
I’ve wired a lot of trailers and your doing the right thing on everything except those blue squeeze connectors They aren’t worth crap and will give you more trouble when the moisture gets to the copper wire and it will deteriorate I use either heat shrink tubing with a straight connector or one a straight connector and squeeze some silicone inside of it and put the wire in and squeeze it together This keeps moisture from getting to your connections. If u have any problems with ur lights after you do this it will be a bad bulb or a pigtail connector going in the light itself
Absolutely love your videos! Do a little research on a company named "Frozen Rotors" just south of Minneapolis, MN. They cryogenically treat rotors to make them harder and then they last a lot longer. They also sell special brake pads for things like racing and towing. I bought some rotors for my old F-150 when I was towing and they worked great until a caliper froze up and ruined the thing!!! Boy was I pissed. They are not cheap, but will last maybe 3 times as long as stock (without a defective caliper). I first heard about them when I lived in the Rocky Mountains. Lots of truckers use them out there because of the severe braking conditions coming down the mountains. Best of luck. Think of them as an investment, especially if you are going to keep the truck for 500,000 miles.
Dont be afraid to put a big dedicated ground on trailer to truck....... run them now all the time with our electric brake vehicles.....it helps a bunch. Also find a good empty setting for you brakes.....saves on tires. One lock up at night that you cant feel or see...bye bye tires. Happens to all of us.. keep them with grease....one out of service with oil not good. Big stuff is all grease now. Hot shot stuff your at the limits so new wheel bearings and magnets every year...even on our race car trailers 👍👍👍👍
Problem is that new trucks monitor voltage on power wires to trailer. If truck detects stray voltage on light wires, truck will give a code or warning for trailer wiring harness. Making sure good sound wiring for all lights resolves this problem.
Agree should stop at axle with sealed junction box run 4 wire back for taillights run separate wire for each axle for brakes and seal all connections with heat shrinks or liquid tape. Had a lot of same issues with my Kaufman trailer until I done this. Most trailer makers don't know what salt up north does to wiring when it is not sealed good
@@jameschristie4596 a total waste using that 7 wire down the while trailer, as 2 wires are power only wires, one is battery charge wire, the other power wire is an axc. power wire, the 7 wire is only used to the junction box, there is a wire made just for the brakes, in heavy casing, and you buy the gray 2 and 4 wire cased wire for everything else,, the biggest problem as i have siad on here before, is grounds are tapped into the frame,, big no no,, all grounds wires are run right back to the ground termanal in the junction box, and on the truck, back to battery, never use frame as ground
I know its probably too late but when I redid my 32' flatbed I did like you and used the nice wire. But I also ordered 3 more of the breakout boxes so all my connections/taps are tight weatherproof connections inside the box. This works great for adding lights or testing in the future. I got everything on Amazon. I also left my hubs oil bath and never had a leak.
oil bath is the best thing going, but if you pull the hubs off you must replace the seal every time, and with the right type of seal, even grease seals must be replaced every time it is pulled a part
i gotta hand it to you you do your best to be ready to go i try to carry a wheel bearing and spare parts to keep me going im not a hotshot just average outdoors person my friends always say i pack to much crap until they need something iv learned this from years of working in the woods great channel and good luck
Once you get moister under the rubber insulator copper wire deteriorates in no time, Did a small end trailer few months ago (before winter season) owner nicked a wire when replacing floor boards I ended replacing the whole run because wire rotted out to the connector of course different gauge longer it will last longer, only thing holding the wire in place was the rubber insulator. Be safe out there love the Videos.
Hey Robert, I’ve had a trailer before that I couldn’t find buddy bearings for, so I drilled and tapped the original caps with a grease zero and pumped grease in that way!!!!
Hi Robert, glad to see you are still hanging in there, I stopped around Thanksgiving. Im trying to get rid of my trailer, if you know anyone that needs one, 2020 33ft Big Tex, all new tires and all the equipment anyone would ever need to start a hotshot business. I'm in Florida, but can deliver. Lee
@BBDcummins It does have mega ramps, it has 6 new tires, 2 a els and 2 spares, it has equipment box I had welded, it has a light bar and it's own battery I had installed. I probably owe $9000 on it, it's like new, I have everything you need to start, it also has dot inspection
Good job and good video scotch locks are so easy to use but I try to avoid them I do carry a bunch of them they will get you going in a pinch if you use them coat them over with rtv after you put them on it will help with the salt I coat all connections with rtv then if I have time after it drys I black tape it . Thumbs up as always hope everyone subscribes
In 10 years of working on electric brake commercial trailers in Southwest Pennsylvania, never saw wires in a magnet do that. Guess I led a charmed life in that way. Lots of destruction by road salt though ! Carry a spare disconnect cable...any defect in the plastic covering is out of service. Road Check safety blitz is May 5-7, instead of June...unless it gets postponed or cancelled.
Good catch on the magnet wires. You may be use to getting a few turns out of you rotors on cars, but you are trying to stop alot of weight (for that size of truck). The factory pads are pretty hard material so it will wear the rotors. I would run another junction box down under the trailer to where you need to start splitting the wires (brakes, side turn signals), from there you can run a 4 wire to the back for the lights. The reason is (1) if you ever have another issue you can check if its front half or back half. Then (2) if you have to replace wire again it's smaller section.
Get some additional junction boxes and use a couple where you have to branch off to the other lights in the back. You can pack them with grease and no more problems. Those blue scotchlock things are nothing but trouble.
After replacing alot of magnets i solved the broken wire problem by sliding a light spring over the two wires and The protective sleeve and JB weld th base of the spring to the magnet this supports the wire right where they were breaking . This seemed to solved the problem for me
Robert I hate that you are having so many problems with that trailer. I called southern trailer about a year ago and was going to order a 40 footer. Started asking questions about the axles and he told me that a local guy was making them for him. That was a huge red flag for me because of parts. Started researching his trailers and your right. The quality is not there. Suck you have to go through this crap and I understand why you bought the trailer. Glad you found the issue on the brakes.
There is nothing wrong with turning the rotors. As long as they are with in spec. after market rotors will get hard spots in them in a short time, The metal is not uniformed like the original equipment. Always buy the best you can find.
kennethrobinson11231 Nope....its not recommended to cut rotors anymore.....heat cycles are why you change rotors. ( our brake lathe is a big space waster now )To cheap to f. with....
You need to go back to your wiring, ever place that you cut into your main Waring harness, To split off for lights and brakes, were you punctured your main waring harness. You need to get rid of those connectors, than scotch lock connectors, And invest in some heat shrink butt connectors they have a silicone in them that will reseal wires. all you need is a Set off pinch pliers and small hand torch to heat them, then take some black Electric tape were you cut the coding on your main harness tape it back up to keep the corrosion from getting to your harness. The water will get into those Scotch lock connectors and Corrode quickly You don't need that green worm! I'm glad to see you found the issue with your brakes. I was surprised they would let you turn your rotors The government has really stepped in all that stuff! Good luck.
@15:54 That is NOT pitting due to any environmental issue. Those are entrapped air bubbles from the potting process in making the electromagnet pads. Basically the wear on these is such that it has worn into the potting compound exposing the air bubbles. Best regards, Ken
dude from all the nightmares that I've had those scotchlok wire connectors or the worst nightmare for trailers please invest in some of the waterproof shrink wrap butt connectors you will not have no more problems with your trailer wiring
You need to check the bushings on the end of the springs and equalizers. The way they wore that trailer shows me they went the cheap route they probably use plastic bushings in the springs which will not last long. They make brass ones that will last longer.
you need your heavy duty wire on both sides of the trailer, a line for clearance and tail lights, a line for brakes, and a line for turn signals and a ground line.. Your 7 pin line is only needed to your junction box. You need a heavy duty 4 wire line for each side of your trailer from your junction box. I used to wire trailers on a production line. Your brake magnets are also a critical component.
Actually, 120,000 miles on your brakes and rotors is pretty good mileage considering the weight you've been hauling. Glad you figured out your trailer problem. Im sure your videos are helping a lot of current and future Hot Shotters. Im even learning stuff I didnt know about smaller trailers! If it wasnt you accidently sliding them with your controller, you might have some steel bands breaking in those tires? Had that problem before with big truck tires. If thats the case, the tire will eventually blow out and you'll sling alligators all over the road?Haha
It used to be machine shops, auto shops would turn rotors several time, below manufacturer's specifications. Laws have chance creating liability if a company does that. Not to mention using a vehicle in a commercial capacity changes things even more i.e. DOT fines. So be safe and replace when recommended
I pull many different trailers for the oilfield, hardly pull the same trailer twice, and I’ll say from my experience almost EVERY trailer manufacturer wires their trailers for shit.
Hello, that wear on your trailer tires, may be due to the axle tube flexing or ocillating, so you have tires that are camber-in/camber-out, hundreds if not thousands of times a day....some semi trailers have the same problem...the fix is to get a piece of angle iron, 1"×1" or 1.5"×1.5" and stitch weld it to the top of the tube, on both sides of the angle.,/\, I hope I'm making sense. Chin up and keep trucking!
Ask your UPS guy for his phone number that away on the days you have something coming in you can call and meet him and not have to wait all day. That's what we have done and there more than happy to help.
Same trailer and had the same problem my trailer is about 9months old. I took my trailer to the axles manufacturer in snead,al and put all new brake plates and drums .trust me it a whole lot cheaper to purchase the plate. Just for future reference
The flat spots are from out of balance wheels with light loads. It's referred to as hammering. The heavy area of the tire causes the tire to become egg shaped which in turn hammers the pavement as it rotates, giving you what you have there. Onboard wheel balancers are the cure. Better fuel mileage, much longer, even tire life, lower rotating assy temperatures. Centramatics are the leading brand out there. I just happen to sell them in case it wasn't obvious.
The flat spots were from the brakes randomly working on random wheels. And because all 4 weren't slowing the trailer down. The one random wheel was probably dragging.
When wiring your brakes on your trailer the black and your red wires in the big black wire that’s for your brakes and all ways remember your yellow wire is your left turn and stop and the green wire is your right turn and stop and the brown is the running lights and black or white is for the ground I used to wire trailers for a living
Robert, you are becoming a trailer brake expert and will be able to hold seminars to teach others. As for that trailer which has made your life miserable, I suggest just leaving the wheels off and dragging it. Shouldn't be any problem stopping then... 😏
You need to schedule a working vacation for next year about this time because that is about how long those scotch lock connectors will work. They are not water/salt proof.
I just buy new rotors online. Too many rotors warped due to heat in the past as they were cut down. I was surprised you used the blue plastic wire connectors instead of soldering. Maybe try balancing the tires when you put on new rubber. I think you are getting some bounce and it's doing the tires in.
So they claim if you run the long run brake pads they will wear out the rotors at service time. Think I would always have a full set of front brake parts ready to go. In my time hauling logs I got rid of the junction boxes for wiring and used thumb screws which you can seal with rtv and tape up securely.
I had the “trailer disconnected” with my PJ Equipment trailer hooked up to my 2015 F350 but not on my 2001 F350. It appears that the new truck monitors the lighting circuit current or voltage drop. My PJ trailer had a tail light wire fed through a factory blow hole made with a plasma torch in the channel and no grommet. Wire insulation was worn through and tail light wire was shorted to the frame. After splicing wire the “trailer disconnected” message went away. Nothing mentioned in the Ford manual about the message.
In the end now you know in and out every connection and every piece of electricity on your trailer, just for a future hint I have found in many cases that you can buy a whole preloaded backing plate with the brake Springs and magnets almost as cheap as you can buy a set of shoes for them. Hope you can get back on the road soon
What the reason you have to keep repacking the bearings? Do they not have grease zerks to grease them with a gun or do they still need repacked even with the grease zerk?
@@SouthGeorgiahotshot ok seems reasonable. That's one of the things I'm actually unsure about with my trailer is how often I should be greasing my axles (7k dexter) it's still new with maybe 15k-20 miles on it but I've been pumping some grease in them every 3k or so.
I learned after many years that car parts are much cheaper online. Advance Auto, Autozone and the rest will give you discounts, coupons and credits for buying online and picking up at your local store. But if you really want to save money on parts, buy from Amazon or check some of the online parts places. You can save anywhere from a third to a half on prices. I can buy name brand OEM parts for what the local parts places charge for off brand junk. If you can think ahead and wait a couple of days you will save big money on vehicle parts online. Don't forget wiper blades, filters, sometimes even oil or anything else, buy it at Walmart or online to save big money.
Every spot the wire hits metal is going to chafe the wire or the sheathing. Just keep an eye on it or give enough slack to keep from rubbing the sharp edges and use silicone to keep it from rubbing
Hello sir John Marquez I have the same issues with my trailer keep lock the the brakes for no reason I got tired of it and go electric over hydraulic best thing I ever did You might wanna get in to it will be the best investment you ever did to you trailer super safe Got everything from etrailer let me know What do you think God-bless
You put a little preload on all wheel bearing. Some tires cup. I see that all the time. Use Firestone tires and blance all wheels and tires. Ck your axle line up. These axles are never lined up from the factory. All this is what you do in the business.
Before you put the new magnet check your magnet surface on the drum side, if your drum surface is smooth then put the new magnet, if not you need to replace the drums
2:15 You should do that before you get on the road(get a room)! Also... Should have got the rubber insert clips,they are way more $ usually, but.. will be much kinder to the new wire housing, in the chafing factor of things. Way better to run it (the wire) in the channel, at least as much as you can, as well.
I might be repeating myself, don't know what happened to my 2nd reply. In my 40 years of pulling trailers, mostly goosenecks, if any wheels were locking up enough to do that much damage, there is no way you wouldn't of either heard it or felt it as your head was moving towards the windshield. Ask any truckers with lowboy trailers running 17.5 tires and they will all tell you how they eat these tires in one spot long before their live's are over. Scrap yards are full of 17.5 lp tires that suffered hammering and aren't legal to run anymore. Google it to see for yourself. I guarantee you that like most people, you balance the tires on your trucks/cars, but not your trailer. Why is that? The lighter you run,(or empty) the worse it is because it's easier for the axles(tires) to lose contact with the road. The damage is done when they come back in contact with the asphalt at 60mph. Pat.
Hi Robert. Just a thought man, But is there any way to seal the openings for the wires, on the new magnets, with silicone caulk or even electric tape them so water doesn't get in there again?
My bad if I ask a question already asked but I’m not reading 203 mfking comments. Lol. Are your tires warranted? I do all my tires on my van at Discount Tire. Great warranty. I’m certain your tires would be covered under warranty. I believe they prorate them under certain circumstances but will replace completely free of cost aside from new warranty coverage on others.
Robert, it doesn't do any of us to keep telling you to get rid of that trailer you simply will not listen to anyone, so keep fighting it keep wasting money on it and when you finally wake up don't act surprised if you kick me off so be it
Got to love being a owner operator. Lol, I know the feeling. Always having to work on something. And about the rotors, got to love big dump ass government. They don't know how to get out of the shower to shit and want to tell everyone what to do. Keep up the great videos and keep on rolling
I always have that issue with UPS or FedEx but you can call their customer service have them hold your package at the warehouse in your city or you can meet the driver somewhere in the driver route he's going to ask for your ID sign the package you can get your package earlier and you don't have to wait until end of day
Going down the road squeezing my thing(come on dude clean it up man) grommet through holes is a plus. Looks like you got rot in your wires. Good miles on breaks but is it good miles on magnets is that normal wear? Get your own lathe turn them one thousandth next time you may be in spec. You can do it man nice bat box. Wire loom stops rubing.heat shrink it man. Just plant big trees or shrubs then they wont see the trailers. Wish you the best man.
I wander if they would drop them off at a UPS center earlier than being delivering to your resident, and you can go grab them at the nearest drop off I put in a request sometime at my choice on ups. Just saying, that's all.
You can track the mileage on each trailer using your Truck Apps on the display. I use mine to track the fifth wheel and the flatbed separately. There are TH-cam videos "Ford F-Series Truck Apps" that can walk you through it.
hi there look like you trailer need paint do get ticket have rust and scotch lock connectors are junk only the brake wire need be 30 amp i would use tinned marine grade wire run wire both side the trailer led lights run on 0.1 amps. best to connect negate wire to negate wire run back to box not chassis and brake too and do manufactured, off-road magnet Al-ko recommends holding the magnet in place, on the magnet arm with a rubber band.best luck
I have re-wired two of my trailers with same wire you are using. And soldered all connections. All lighting and braking issues resolved.
Eric that's awesome I'm glad everything went well and you not letting anything stop you. I donated my best friend/brothers organs after his head got crushed wearing a helmet when are Yamaha Rhino upper arm failed at 60 MPH causing it to rollover crushing his head between the asphalt road and roll cage. His organs went to 7 different people saving there lives. Hardest decision I have ever made in my life but knowing that he helped 7 people it was the best decision I have ever made.
cntsles fabrication Gift of Life🙏🏻👍
Those little four-wheelers are very dangerous. I myself do not think I will ever own one or allow my kids to ride them. I almost got killed on a lawn tractor which turned quick and started rolling down a steep hill and luckily I was thrown clear. Another TH-cam channel are man and wife working on their land the wife came home to find her husband trapped under his four-wheeler yard tractor. There's a reason that come with seat belts and roll over protection.
Whenever you use the brakes. The left front on the trailer gets all the power. By the time it gets to the right rear, there's no power left. Whenever I rewire a trailer, I mount an electrical box center of trailer and centered between axles. Run 4 equal length wires to the brakes. All brakes get equal power and work better.
Great advice 👍👌
Robert, just be thankful that you have the knowledge and skills that you can do most of the work yourself. I believe I would put a for sale sign on the trailer. Keep up the hard work. Be safe out there. 👍🙏🇱🇷
for sure!!!
He just bought it.
Hey Robert
Those scotch lock connectors are junk for trailers as they are not weather proof. You really need to be heat shrink butt connectors if you want those connections to last. I wodk on traileras all the time and never use tbem for that reason. Keep up the great work.
Scott Shook I can’t believe he’s still doing that. Told him before to take them out. They only cause trouble. Can he learn?
Scotch locks are terrible for weather. Probably last 6 months at most. Please use shrink connects if you dont solder and shrink. Good luck, I like how you work.
those connectors are crap i borrowed a small box trailer and the lights weren't all working and found issue being one of them so i ripped it off and soldered the wires and they work perfect now dont understand why he still uses them unless he is being lazy
He’s either not reading our replies or thinks his viewers are stupid. Anyone with a lick of common sense knows those scotchlocks judt lead to more issues. I guess he likes crawling around at night in piss coated parking lots trying to fix his screwups.
I agree the best way to go would be solder with heat shrink if you don't plan on changing the wiring anytime soon. I use the Scotch lock connectors every 6 months. Cut off the old and stick in the new one put a little liquid electrical tape on the bottom of them all good spring and fall. The key is just stay ahead of it keep doing it every 6 months packing bearings and its cheaper to buy back plates than brake shoes and magnets and more aggravating 5 screws and you're done and everything while it's still cool outside spring and fall. And you got to keep those wires tight don't let them flop around they get ice on them. It's just easier for me this way to each his own.
My friend,Your patients level is unreal.You never give up that’s awesome.I would have dumped that thing by now,that’s me though.Love the videos.
I could become a Jack of all trades just from watching your videos.. I enjoy the repairs and everything else. Always learning something new. Stay safe.
Your channel is like a drug to me. I have no interest in becoming a HotShot driver, but I look forward to each of your blogs.
I agree
LoL me too
I agree
Me too, the comments sections are the best you can usually learn a lot from some people's opinions. Seems like most people own trailers of one sort or another and we could all experience these problems.
I pulled a lowboy for over 35 years let and old timer give you some advice every place you spliced that wire you need to put a junction box they are sealed and cheap the way you did it you will always have problems even time they get wet
Good job on keeping the maintenance up on the truck and trailer Robert. Safety first ! Stay save & healthy !
I’ve wired a lot of trailers and your doing the right thing on everything except those blue squeeze connectors
They aren’t worth crap and will give you more trouble when the moisture gets to the copper wire and it will deteriorate I use either heat shrink tubing with a straight connector or one a straight connector and squeeze some silicone inside of it and put the wire in and squeeze it together This keeps moisture from getting to your connections. If u have any problems with ur lights after you do this it will be a bad bulb or a pigtail connector going in the light itself
I'm glad you figured it out . Good job Robert. You and Lida be safe
the adventures of SGH. the most entertaining hotshot videos by far.always looking forward to your videos!!
Absolutely love your videos! Do a little research on a company named "Frozen Rotors" just south of Minneapolis, MN. They cryogenically treat rotors to make them harder and then they last a lot longer. They also sell special brake pads for things like racing and towing. I bought some rotors for my old F-150 when I was towing and they worked great until a caliper froze up and ruined the thing!!! Boy was I pissed. They are not cheap, but will last maybe 3 times as long as stock (without a defective caliper). I first heard about them when I lived in the Rocky Mountains. Lots of truckers use them out there because of the severe braking conditions coming down the mountains. Best of luck. Think of them as an investment, especially if you are going to keep the truck for 500,000 miles.
Dont be afraid to put a big dedicated ground on trailer to truck....... run them now all the time with our electric brake vehicles.....it helps a bunch. Also find a good empty setting for you brakes.....saves on tires. One lock up at night that you cant feel or see...bye bye tires. Happens to all of us.. keep them with grease....one out of service with oil not good. Big stuff is all grease now. Hot shot stuff your at the limits so new wheel bearings and magnets every year...even on our race car trailers 👍👍👍👍
You only need to run the 7 way to the axles, after that just lights
Problem is that new trucks monitor voltage on power wires to trailer. If truck detects stray voltage on light wires, truck will give a code or warning for trailer wiring harness. Making sure good sound wiring for all lights resolves this problem.
You know what happened to the guy who thought he had to fart?
Take your time. Go thru a complete diagnosis. Refrain from guessing. You will get it.
Agree should stop at axle with sealed junction box run 4 wire back for taillights run separate wire for each axle for brakes and seal all connections with heat shrinks or liquid tape. Had a lot of same issues with my Kaufman trailer until I done this. Most trailer makers don't know what salt up north does to wiring when it is not sealed good
@@riverflyswatter yeah but most people just fire the parts Canon at their problems.
@@jameschristie4596 a total waste using that 7 wire down the while trailer, as 2 wires are power only wires, one is battery charge wire, the other power wire is an axc. power wire, the 7 wire is only used to the junction box, there is a wire made just for the brakes, in heavy casing, and you buy the gray 2 and 4 wire cased wire for everything else,, the biggest problem as i have siad on here before, is grounds are tapped into the frame,, big no no,, all grounds wires are run right back to the ground termanal in the junction box, and on the truck, back to battery, never use frame as ground
I know its probably too late but when I redid my 32' flatbed I did like you and used the nice wire. But I also ordered 3 more of the breakout boxes so all my connections/taps are tight weatherproof connections inside the box. This works great for adding lights or testing in the future. I got everything on Amazon. I also left my hubs oil bath and never had a leak.
oil bath is the best thing going, but if you pull the hubs off you must replace the seal every time, and with the right type of seal, even grease seals must be replaced every time it is pulled a part
“Goin’ down the road squeezing your thing”? Stop that, you’ll go blind.
Its lonely on the road
SouthGeorgiaHotShot 👍🤣
SouthGeorgiaHotShot 😂😂😂🐐
i gotta hand it to you you do your best to be ready to go i try to carry a wheel bearing and spare parts to keep me going im not a hotshot just average outdoors person my friends always say i pack to much crap until they need something iv learned this from years of working in the woods great channel and good luck
Once you get moister under the rubber insulator copper wire deteriorates in no time, Did a small end trailer few months ago (before winter season) owner nicked a wire when replacing floor boards I ended replacing the whole run because wire rotted out to the connector of course different gauge longer it will last longer, only thing holding the wire in place was the rubber insulator. Be safe out there love the Videos.
Hey Robert, I’ve had a trailer before that I couldn’t find buddy bearings for, so I drilled and tapped the original caps with a grease zero and pumped grease in that way!!!!
Hi Robert, glad to see you are still hanging in there, I stopped around Thanksgiving. Im trying to get rid of my trailer, if you know anyone that needs one, 2020 33ft Big Tex, all new tires and all the equipment anyone would ever need to start a hotshot business. I'm in Florida, but can deliver. Lee
@BBDcummins It does have mega ramps, it has 6 new tires, 2 a els and 2 spares, it has equipment box I had welded, it has a light bar and it's own battery I had installed. I probably owe $9000 on it, it's like new, I have everything you need to start, it also has dot inspection
I also have a truck ready to go, 2017 f250, it also has a dot inspection
@BBDcummins It has 2 axle's, 4 wheels plus 2 new spares
@BBDcummins I can send you pictures?
Gotta love the way you were pointing at your mailman...your videos are awesome!
Good job and good video scotch locks are so easy to use but I try to avoid them I do carry a bunch of them they will get you going in a pinch if you use them coat them over with rtv after you put them on it will help with the salt I coat all connections with rtv then if I have time after it drys I black tape it . Thumbs up as always hope everyone subscribes
Hey just want to say your one of my favorite channels to watch and appreciate the videos you put out. Thank you and stay safe.🌞🌞🌞🌞🌞🌞🌞
Thanks Jim
Hey Robert, your trailer is jacked up. Literally and figuratively!😂
Times ain't what they used to be. Rotors are throw away parts now.
The current to the magnets are "throttled" by pulsing with a duty cycle. The whining is the pulsing you are hearing.
Absolutely, stop turning rotors on modern vehicles. They aren't that expensive $120, versus 20 to turn them.
jaydak99 and even though not much is taken off they will warp quickly.
Love your maintenance videos! Thanks again!
In 10 years of working on electric brake commercial trailers in Southwest Pennsylvania, never saw wires in a magnet do that. Guess I led a charmed life in that way.
Lots of destruction by road salt though !
Carry a spare disconnect cable...any defect in the plastic covering is out of service.
Road Check safety blitz is May 5-7, instead of June...unless it gets postponed or cancelled.
Good catch on the magnet wires. You may be use to getting a few turns out of you rotors on cars, but you are trying to stop alot of weight (for that size of truck). The factory pads are pretty hard material so it will wear the rotors.
I would run another junction box down under the trailer to where you need to start splitting the wires (brakes, side turn signals), from there you can run a 4 wire to the back for the lights. The reason is (1) if you ever have another issue you can check if its front half or back half. Then (2) if you have to replace wire again it's smaller section.
Looks good except for those splices, i would have stripped the wire and soldered the splices.
Bummer dude, good thing you're changing out the brakes and magnets on your trailer to be safe.
Get some additional junction boxes and use a couple where you have to branch off to the other lights in the back. You can pack them with grease and no more problems. Those blue scotchlock things are nothing but trouble.
Going down the road squeezing your thing? 😂😂😂 sorry....couldn’t resist that one.
The trailer manufacturer used shitty brake kits on his axels everything done on the cheap
After replacing alot of magnets i solved the broken wire problem by sliding a light spring over the two wires and
The protective sleeve and JB weld th base of the spring to the magnet this supports the wire right where they were breaking .
This seemed to solved the problem for me
Mystery solved, glad you found gremlin
Robert I hate that you are having so many problems with that trailer. I called southern trailer about a year ago and was going to order a 40 footer. Started asking questions about the axles and he told me that a local guy was making them for him. That was a huge red flag for me because of parts. Started researching his trailers and your right. The quality is not there. Suck you have to go through this crap and I understand why you bought the trailer. Glad you found the issue on the brakes.
Your expectation of turning a few times on rotors is wrong and unsafe. Don’t do it.
There is nothing wrong with turning the rotors. As long as they are with in spec. after market rotors will get hard spots in them in a short time, The metal is not uniformed like the original equipment. Always buy the best you can find.
kennethrobinson11231 Nope....its not recommended to cut rotors anymore.....heat cycles are why you change rotors. ( our brake lathe is a big space waster now )To cheap to f. with....
Awesome video Robert i feel for you for what you pay for trailers now it's daylight robbery definitely no quality now days 🙋♂️🇬🇧
Good job that was a crazy find keep rollin and stopin be safe
Thanks guys always enjoy your videos
You need to go back to your wiring, ever place that you cut into your main Waring harness, To split off for lights and brakes, were you punctured your main waring harness. You need to get rid of those connectors, than scotch lock connectors, And invest in some heat shrink butt connectors they have a silicone in them that will reseal wires. all you need is a Set off pinch pliers and small hand torch to heat them, then take some black Electric tape were you cut the coding on your main harness tape it back up to keep the corrosion from getting to your harness. The water will get into those Scotch lock connectors and Corrode quickly You don't need that green worm! I'm glad to see you found the issue with your brakes.
I was surprised they would let you turn your rotors The government has really stepped in all that stuff!
Good luck.
We went back and sealed everything. This was a quick check to see if it was the problem
Right on, Look like you did good job.
@15:54 That is NOT pitting due to any environmental issue. Those are entrapped air bubbles from the potting process in making the electromagnet pads. Basically the wear on these is such that it has worn into the potting compound exposing the air bubbles.
Best regards,
Ken
dude from all the nightmares that I've had those scotchlok wire connectors or the worst nightmare for trailers please invest in some of the waterproof shrink wrap butt connectors you will not have no more problems with your trailer wiring
You need to check the bushings on the end of the springs and equalizers. The way they wore that trailer shows me they went the cheap route they probably use plastic bushings in the springs which will not last long. They make brass ones that will last longer.
You can have ups hold them at your local terminal and pick up your stuff either the night before or that morning
you need your heavy duty wire on both sides of the trailer, a line for clearance and tail lights, a line for brakes, and a line for turn signals and a ground line.. Your 7 pin line is only needed to your junction box. You need a heavy duty 4 wire line for each side of your trailer from your junction box. I used to wire trailers on a production line. Your brake magnets are also a critical component.
Actually, 120,000 miles on your brakes and rotors is pretty good mileage considering the weight you've been hauling. Glad you figured out your trailer problem. Im sure your videos are helping a lot of current and future Hot Shotters. Im even learning stuff I didnt know about smaller trailers! If it wasnt you accidently sliding them with your controller, you might have some steel bands breaking in those tires? Had that problem before with big truck tires. If thats the case, the tire will eventually blow out and you'll sling alligators all over the road?Haha
It used to be machine shops, auto shops would turn rotors several time, below manufacturer's specifications. Laws have chance creating liability if a company does that. Not to mention using a vehicle in a commercial capacity changes things even more i.e. DOT fines. So be safe and replace when recommended
I pull many different trailers for the oilfield, hardly pull the same trailer twice, and I’ll say from my experience almost EVERY trailer manufacturer wires their trailers for shit.
Good video, but I would not use those squeeze clips for the wires. I suggest T solder them.
Did the wiring the magnets fix your disconnect brake issue
Brake magnet pitting may be exposed air bubbles. That center area is a poured potting material I believe.
Hello, that wear on your trailer tires, may be due to the axle tube flexing or ocillating, so you have tires that are camber-in/camber-out, hundreds if not thousands of times a day....some semi trailers have the same problem...the fix is to get a piece of angle iron, 1"×1" or 1.5"×1.5" and stitch weld it to the top of the tube, on both sides of the angle.,/\,
I hope I'm making sense. Chin up and keep trucking!
Try using the Lucas hub oil with leak seal. It is very thick and will bearings lubricant even if you have a leak.
Ask your UPS guy for his phone number that away on the days you have something coming in you can call and meet him and not have to wait all day. That's what we have done and there more than happy to help.
Check the decking underneath for a burn spot or groove could be your leafsprings giving out
Same trailer and had the same problem my trailer is about 9months old. I took my trailer to the axles manufacturer in snead,al and put all new brake plates and drums .trust me it a whole lot cheaper to purchase the plate. Just for future reference
Yeah we were on a time crunch to get back out. So we went with what ever was the fastest repair
The flat spots are from out of balance wheels with light loads. It's referred to as hammering. The heavy area of the tire causes the tire to become egg shaped which in turn hammers the pavement as it rotates, giving you what you have there. Onboard wheel balancers are the cure. Better fuel mileage, much longer, even tire life, lower rotating assy temperatures. Centramatics are the leading brand out there. I just happen to sell them in case it wasn't obvious.
The flat spots were from the brakes randomly working on random wheels. And because all 4 weren't slowing the trailer down. The one random wheel was probably dragging.
When wiring your brakes on your trailer the black and your red wires in the big black wire that’s for your brakes and all ways remember your yellow wire is your left turn and stop and the green wire is your right turn and stop and the brown is the running lights and black or white is for the ground I used to wire trailers for a living
for your info the little angle part on your trucks brake pads are the wear marks to go by when they are gone they are used up.
I just used to the little bent piece of metal that makes noise when it get low
And on the 7way plug the blue wire is 12volts at all time that’s for your trailer brake away kit
Robert, you are becoming a trailer brake expert and will be able to hold seminars to teach others. As for that trailer which has made your life miserable, I suggest just leaving the wheels off and dragging it. Shouldn't be any problem stopping then... 😏
Those flat spots on the tires are caused by out of balance tires.
Or bent axles
also caused by jack knife tight turns. Them long trailers drag or scrub the tire edges when they get turned tight and spun around in tight spots.
You need to schedule a working vacation for next year about this time because that is about how long those scotch lock connectors will work. They are not water/salt proof.
I just buy new rotors online. Too many rotors warped due to heat in the past as they were cut down. I was surprised you used the blue plastic wire connectors instead of soldering. Maybe try balancing the tires when you put on new rubber. I think you are getting some bounce and it's doing the tires in.
So they claim if you run the long run brake pads they will wear out the rotors at service time. Think I would always have a full set of front brake parts ready to go. In my time hauling logs I got rid of the junction boxes for wiring and used thumb screws which you can seal with rtv and tape up securely.
I had the “trailer disconnected” with my PJ Equipment trailer hooked up to my 2015 F350 but not on my 2001 F350. It appears that the new truck monitors the lighting circuit current or voltage drop. My PJ trailer had a tail light wire fed through a factory blow hole made with a plasma torch in the channel and no grommet. Wire insulation was worn through and tail light wire was shorted to the frame. After splicing wire the “trailer disconnected” message went away. Nothing mentioned in the Ford manual about the message.
In the end now you know in and out every connection and every piece of electricity on your trailer, just for a future hint I have found in many cases that you can buy a whole preloaded backing plate with the brake Springs and magnets almost as cheap as you can buy a set of shoes for them. Hope you can get back on the road soon
What the reason you have to keep repacking the bearings? Do they not have grease zerks to grease them with a gun or do they still need repacked even with the grease zerk?
No grease zerks. And honestly i would still repack them at 40k cause the zerks dont really grease them that well
@@SouthGeorgiahotshot ok seems reasonable. That's one of the things I'm actually unsure about with my trailer is how often I should be greasing my axles (7k dexter) it's still new with maybe 15k-20 miles on it but I've been pumping some grease in them every 3k or so.
I learned after many years that car parts are much cheaper online.
Advance Auto, Autozone and the rest will give you discounts, coupons and credits for buying online and picking up at your local store.
But if you really want to save money on parts, buy from Amazon or check some of the online parts places. You can save anywhere from a third to a half on prices. I can buy name brand OEM parts for what the local parts places charge for off brand junk.
If you can think ahead and wait a couple of days you will save big money on vehicle parts online.
Don't forget wiper blades, filters, sometimes even oil or anything else, buy it at Walmart or online to save big money.
Fixing to install this wire hope it works out! If so I’d be ever pleased to send you a gift card for making this video!
Don’t add oil to grease. You are full of silly ideas today.
Every spot the wire hits metal is going to chafe the wire or the sheathing. Just keep an eye on it or give enough slack to keep from rubbing the sharp edges and use silicone to keep it from rubbing
Hello sir John Marquez I have the same issues with my trailer keep lock the the brakes for no reason I got tired of it and go electric over hydraulic best thing I ever did You might wanna get in to it will be the best investment you ever did to you trailer super safe Got everything from etrailer let me know What do you think God-bless
You put a little preload on all wheel bearing. Some tires cup. I see that all the time. Use Firestone tires and blance all wheels and tires. Ck your axle line up. These axles are never lined up from the factory. All this is what you do in the business.
Before you put the new magnet check your magnet surface on the drum side, if your drum surface is smooth then put the new magnet, if not you need to replace the drums
This dude said “fancy white sticker.” Lol. Good work
Do those magnets come with the wire that broke off of your old ones or is that something you’re gonna have to buy separate
The wires come already connected to the magnet
Hey Robert, was wondering if you had done a year end review?
2:15 You should do that before you get on the road(get a room)! Also... Should have got the rubber insert clips,they are way more $ usually, but.. will be much kinder to the new wire housing, in the chafing factor of things. Way better to run it (the wire) in the channel, at least as much as you can, as well.
That trailer would be the death of me.
I might be repeating myself, don't know what happened to my 2nd reply. In my 40 years of pulling trailers, mostly goosenecks, if any wheels were locking up enough to do that much damage, there is no way you wouldn't of either heard it or felt it as your head was moving towards the windshield. Ask any truckers with lowboy trailers running 17.5 tires and they will all tell you how they eat these tires in one spot long before their live's are over. Scrap yards are full of 17.5 lp tires that suffered hammering and aren't legal to run anymore. Google it to see for yourself. I guarantee you that like most people, you balance the tires on your trucks/cars, but not your trailer. Why is that? The lighter you run,(or empty) the worse it is because it's easier for the axles(tires) to lose contact with the road. The damage is done when they come back in contact with the asphalt at 60mph. Pat.
Hi Robert. Just a thought man, But is there any way to seal the openings for the wires, on the new magnets, with silicone caulk or even electric tape them so water doesn't get in there again?
My bad if I ask a question already asked but I’m not reading 203 mfking comments. Lol. Are your tires warranted? I do all my tires on my van at Discount Tire. Great warranty. I’m certain your tires would be covered under warranty. I believe they prorate them under certain circumstances but will replace completely free of cost aside from new warranty coverage on others.
They came with the trailer. And the trailer was bought used
Robert, it doesn't do any of us to keep telling you to get rid of that trailer you simply will not listen to anyone, so keep fighting it keep wasting money on it and when you finally wake up don't act surprised if you kick me off so be it
Money doesnt grow on trees
It is stamped on the Rotors have the minimum rotor thickness limits. Northern trucks and cars rust something awful, frames wiring, gas tanks!
Got to love being a owner operator. Lol, I know the feeling. Always having to work on something. And about the rotors, got to love big dump ass government. They don't know how to get out of the shower to shit and want to tell everyone what to do. Keep up the great videos and keep on rolling
Just noticed your truck is a F250 any thoughts about an F250 vs F350 or F 350 Dually?
Shoukd have bought a dually
I always have that issue with UPS or FedEx but you can call their customer service have them hold your package at the warehouse in your city or you can meet the driver somewhere in the driver route he's going to ask for your ID sign the package you can get your package earlier and you don't have to wait until end of day
You need to become familiar with a product called Fluid-Film..
Wool wax is better check it out
MrRod632 both work very well.....northeast with salters and plow trucks here
Going down the road squeezing my thing(come on dude clean it up man) grommet through holes is a plus. Looks like you got rot in your wires. Good miles on breaks but is it good miles on magnets is that normal wear? Get your own lathe turn them one thousandth next time you may be in spec. You can do it man nice bat box. Wire loom stops rubing.heat shrink it man. Just plant big trees or shrubs then they wont see the trailers. Wish you the best man.
The wire connection at 17:03 you should put in a mini junction box!!! Just an idea...
I wander if they would drop them off at a UPS center earlier than being delivering to your resident, and you can go grab them at the nearest drop off I put in a request sometime at my choice on ups. Just saying, that's all.
You can track the mileage on each trailer using your Truck Apps on the display. I use mine to track the fifth wheel and the flatbed separately. There are TH-cam videos "Ford F-Series Truck Apps" that can walk you through it.
Yeah i went through and set mine up. Just always forget to stop it when disconnected
Don’t waste time turning the rotors. Just get new ones. Cost more but saves having to do rotors on the road.
John Smith they’ll run cooler as well
don't use those push blade connectors, solder and heat shrink everything
hi there look like you trailer need paint do get ticket have rust and scotch lock connectors are junk only the brake wire need be 30 amp i would use tinned marine grade wire run wire both side the trailer led lights run on 0.1 amps. best to connect negate wire to negate wire run back to box not chassis and brake too and do manufactured, off-road magnet Al-ko recommends holding the magnet in place, on the magnet arm with a rubber band.best luck