Chris, great video! My compliments--will be assisting my grandson later this week. Minor point, but I recommend your video remind the "mechanic" to replace the master cylinder cover BEFORE pumping the brakes as you mentioned near the end of the video. Some may forget to do that, creating some issues. Thanks again!
@ChrisDeLucia Nicely done. I like that fact that you give us exactly what we need to know and none of the stupid fluff about what's going on that day or blah blah blah. Very informative, helpful and now I know what I need to do for my 2014 A4.
Helpful video, thank you for posting but FYI you do not need to remove the rear brake caliper carrier to remove the rotor. There is enough clearance to slide the rotor out from (and in) under the carrier. Will save a good bit of time.
You can remove the bottom bolt of the rear shock to give you access to the lower caliper bracket bolt. Specifically, put the car on jack stands, then compress the rear suspension with your floor jack to take the pressure off the shock. Undo the lower shock bolt and move the shock out the way. You now have access to the bottom bolt of the caliper bracket. Once you've installed the new rotor and pads, compress the suspension to reinstall the shock.
Great video. Doing rears soon. Screw driver with leverage to push piston in before removing calipar saves some time/ effort. Worth a try next time. Thanks for upload.
I'm reading on different forums and sites that the piston needs to be rotated back instead of just pushing it back. Do you know if pushing it back without rotating it back using a caliper kit does any damage to the to this caliper with EPC?
You will damage it if you just push it back in. You need to retract it with a vag-com like i did in the video OR you can take the plastic assembly off and screw it back in with a T40 torx. Once you do that you can push the piston back in without spinning it using a normal C clamp
Hey Chris; could you link the website for the software to release the e brake like you did on the computer and also could you provide a link to purchase the vag com you used? Thank you
If you take some of the weight off of the corner of the car you are working on, by partially jacking up that corner but so that the tire is still in contact with the ground, you'll likely just need the wrench which came with the car to loosen the tire lug nuts. Knowing this is particularly helpful if you are, say, changing a flat tire at the side of the road. None of my Hondas/Acuras needed this partial lift, but my 2012 Focus and 2005 Ranger do; all vehicles have/had alloy rims, and I use a torque wrench to tighten lug nuts.
Get some disposable gloves, use of thread locker, and torque specs would be nice Chris. You could take apart the electronic emergency brake and turn it clockwise to allow the piston to be push in without a fancy computer. Good job with finding jack stand points as many European cars has a joke of a frame. Keep it DIY 🍻
The only way to release the parking brake without Vag-com is to do some real janky sh*t that involves connecting 12v to the motor. something i would not risk doing.
@@LBCAndrew Are you sure about that Andrew? "2010 Audi A4 A5 B8 Rear Brake Pads Replacement without Vagcom 2009 2011 2012 2013 2014" on TH-cam th-cam.com/video/34G3qDPNldE/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for this changed pads today and it's all good, I would have probably made the wrong selection on the vag com and broke the electric park brake nice one from UK👍🏾
You mention putting the axle stand on the "Rear subframe attaches to the unibody of the car"; where would that be? Do you need to remove the whole caliper or does this depend on the model of A4 you have? Good video though. Thanks
Hey Chris, Thanks for the detailed video. I'm planning to change mine for the first time. 2011 A5. Just wanna confirm 2 things. I don't have to push the bracket? Does VAG COM do that when turning off E brakes? And do the pads have wear sensors?
The rear does not have wear sensors. You will have to push the caliper piston back in manually, you will do this AFTER you use the vag-com to back off the electronic e brake.
Good video but I would have liked to see you take off the lower bracket bolt on passenger side, as I was unable to get a socket on it when I attempted it. I guess there is also a torx or triple square on those bolts?
If I remember correctly I used an open end and some leverage to get this bolt off on the passenger side. I do not recall any of the bolts holding the bracket on having a torx or triple square in the bolt heads.
great video! thanks for it. I had a question if you can help with: When disengaging the rear electronic brake with the VAG application, do you need to first remove the wheel or you can do this at any point in the process (at the very start for example)?
Great, thank you for the quick reply. I was indeed wondering if I can do it as a test to see if it will work out before engaging in the whole process. Also was concerned if there is a risk of damaging something if I just disengaged them and then reversed it for the test.
When you use the vag-com to back off the ebrake, you still need to manually push the caliper piston back in using the C clamp. Make sure to use the vag-com to back off the electronic e brake first before you use the c-clamp to push the piston back in. If you don't push the piston back in you wont be able to fit your new brake pads over the rotor.
@@chrisdelucia2672 Thanks a lot, that makes so much sense now. I thought the vag-com would retract the calipers too. I see that you mentioned that without the C clamp I can do something with a screw driver. Can I do something like these guys have done in this video at 3:05 minutes? th-cam.com/video/zFZJj39FZ3s/w-d-xo.html
The reservoir is vented ti allow fluid to be pulled down when your pads wear so it should allow it to push fluid back into it, BUT I always take the top off to be safe
You need to electronically spin back in the e brake or you will break it trying to push the pistons back into the caliper. You need a vag com or other tool to do this
Had a hard time removing the carrier bolts in the rear. Can't get air tools or long breaker bar from available positions to try and break the bolt. Any recommendations? I got one loose but the bottom one seriously has limited space and is hard to break.
if you want to risk screwing it up, you can try that method. The cost of replacing the e-brake mechanism would be 2x more than buying a vag-com from rosstech.
875- Performance you can go to Ross-techs website or look online, I think eBay has some knock offs that I have heard work but have no experience using one.
to retract rear brake piston after parking brake released on B8 models I seen videos where they needed a special tool, one that rotates and retract the piston at the same time. Can someone tell me about this - does Audi uses diferent versions on their cars. I can also tell you that EU Audis don't have regular bolts for brackets but torx.
The vag-com retracts the electronic parking brake mechanism. If you do not retract it, attempting to remove the brake pads will break the servo which costs $440 for just the part.
Hi Jaclyn, this is c.delucia 's Video. I just finished changing my brake/rotors and it was actually very simple. No need to bleed the brakes really, just pop open your brake fluid cap in the hood. You pump the brakes at the very end, after putting in your new brake pads and reinstalling your caliper/wheels. Hope that helps.
Just as Siroti said you do not need to bleed the brakes just pump them once the new pads are in. You will push the pistons behind the pads all the way back in to get your new pads in place, pumping the brakes will push those pistons back out so they sit tight between your pad and rotor.
I had a quick question since I’m sort of stuck right now at the moment. I can’t push my caliper back into the place. You used a clamp but they auto shop keeps telling me I need a 3 pin brake piston wind back adapter ?
first u need to rewind the brake motor using the vag tool or an autel brake scanner then u can use a vise to push the piston otherwise you will never ever be able to push it in place
Can anyone confirm this method works without damaging anything? I've seen videos where they use vagcom / OBD11 to retract and still use a special brake depressor tool as described above. I'm guessing the electronic brake is on a spindle that butts against the piston if this is the case and the extra tool is overkill in the videos I've seen (only required without vagcom). Not sure why else you would need to rotate the piston in. Electronic ebrakes are new to me...
Standard rear calipers without electronic e brakes need to be spun as they are pushed it and would require the tool you are talking about. With these calipers you do not need to spin them as they are pushed in. Use the vag-com to retract the e-brake and then push the piston in with a C clamp like i did in the video.
Don Kleppinger when changing the pads and rotors there is no need to bleed the system. This is only needed if you replace the calipers or master cylinder.
Yeah you can. Remove the electrical plug then take some wires and attach them to a battery and reverse the motor on the e brake all the way out manually and you're sorted. Might be an idea to use a 9v battery if its your first time so the motor runs a bit slower.
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Chris, great video! My compliments--will be assisting my grandson later this week. Minor point, but I recommend your video remind the "mechanic" to replace the master cylinder cover BEFORE pumping the brakes as you mentioned near the end of the video. Some may forget to do that, creating some issues. Thanks again!
@ChrisDeLucia Nicely done. I like that fact that you give us exactly what we need to know and none of the stupid fluff about what's going on that day or blah blah blah. Very informative, helpful and now I know what I need to do for my 2014 A4.
Glad to help!
Helpful video, thank you for posting but FYI you do not need to remove the rear brake caliper carrier to remove the rotor. There is enough clearance to slide the rotor out from (and in) under the carrier. Will save a good bit of time.
Thanks for the input, I never even tried to get it out without removing it. Good to know!
I'm really glad I read this comment as I removed the carriers on the front with my cordless impact but the rear was impossible, thanks for the tip!
There wasn't enough room for me to pull the rotor without removing the bracket with 18mm
You can remove the bottom bolt of the rear shock to give you access to the lower caliper bracket bolt. Specifically, put the car on jack stands, then compress the rear suspension with your floor jack to take the pressure off the shock. Undo the lower shock bolt and move the shock out the way. You now have access to the bottom bolt of the caliper bracket. Once you've installed the new rotor and pads, compress the suspension to reinstall the shock.
@@treanthony7336 I mean at that point why not just remove the caliper bracket lmao
Great video. Doing rears soon. Screw driver with leverage to push piston in before removing calipar saves some time/ effort. Worth a try next time. Thanks for upload.
Is there a rear brake pad wear sensor on the A4's? I know my front left has one. Rears?
There is not on the rears
I'm reading on different forums and sites that the piston needs to be rotated back instead of just pushing it back. Do you know if pushing it back without rotating it back using a caliper kit does any damage to the to this caliper with EPC?
You will damage it if you just push it back in. You need to retract it with a vag-com like i did in the video OR you can take the plastic assembly off and screw it back in with a T40 torx. Once you do that you can push the piston back in without spinning it using a normal C clamp
@@chrisdelucia2672 So there is way around it without using a vag-com? I just got my first Audi, so all this is totally new to me.
Hey Chris; could you link the website for the software to release the e brake like you did on the computer and also could you provide a link to purchase the vag com you used? Thank you
Thanks a lot for showing the VAG COM part. I'm glad I watched this video or I would have break the mecanism!
Glad it was helpful!
If you take some of the weight off of the corner of the car you are working on, by partially jacking up that corner but so that the tire is still in contact with the ground, you'll likely just need the wrench which came with the car to loosen the tire lug nuts. Knowing this is particularly helpful if you are, say, changing a flat tire at the side of the road. None of my Hondas/Acuras needed this partial lift, but my 2012 Focus and 2005 Ranger do; all vehicles have/had alloy rims, and I use a torque wrench to tighten lug nuts.
Get some disposable gloves, use of thread locker, and torque specs would be nice Chris. You could take apart the electronic emergency brake and turn it clockwise to allow the piston to be push in without a fancy computer. Good job with finding jack stand points as many European cars has a joke of a frame. Keep it DIY 🍻
The only way to release the parking brake without Vag-com is to do some real janky sh*t that involves connecting 12v to the motor. something i would not risk doing.
@@LBCAndrew Are you sure about that Andrew?
"2010 Audi A4 A5 B8 Rear Brake Pads Replacement without Vagcom 2009 2011 2012 2013 2014" on TH-cam
th-cam.com/video/34G3qDPNldE/w-d-xo.html
Great video Chris, thanks for the detailed instructions!
Thanks for this changed pads today and it's all good, I would have probably made the wrong selection on the vag com and broke the electric park brake nice one from UK👍🏾
Great instructions , Good job 👏 👍 👌
Well explained! Good luck with your channel! 👍🏻
Thx!
Great video, thank you. Just to confirm, you did not attach a battery charger at all on this job while running VCDS?
Nice demonstration
Can you please show in detail exactly where the axle stand is placed. For us beginners. :) thanks. Great video.
Hey Chris, Thanks for the informative videos. Just to confirm the front pads only have wear sensors not the back?
That is correct!
Would most import mechanics have the care and decency to handle the job the same way you did?
I don't think so which is why I do all of my work myself
You mention putting the axle stand on the "Rear subframe attaches to the unibody of the car"; where would that be? Do you need to remove the whole caliper or does this depend on the model of A4 you have? Good video though. Thanks
Do you still need to open the parking brake with VAG COM on a manual transmission with the parking brake disengaged ?
Yes pretty sure process is same for both auto and manual
Hey Chris,
Thanks for the detailed video. I'm planning to change mine for the first time. 2011 A5. Just wanna confirm 2 things. I don't have to push the bracket? Does VAG COM do that when turning off E brakes? And do the pads have wear sensors?
The rear does not have wear sensors. You will have to push the caliper piston back in manually, you will do this AFTER you use the vag-com to back off the electronic e brake.
Thanks for the video!
Any questions let me know
Good video but I would have liked to see you take off the lower bracket bolt on passenger side, as I was unable to get a socket on it when I attempted it. I guess there is also a torx or triple square on those bolts?
If I remember correctly I used an open end and some leverage to get this bolt off on the passenger side. I do not recall any of the bolts holding the bracket on having a torx or triple square in the bolt heads.
great video! thanks for it. I had a question if you can help with: When disengaging the rear electronic brake with the VAG application, do you need to first remove the wheel or you can do this at any point in the process (at the very start for example)?
Evgeni Alexandrov you can do it at any point. The car can still be on the ground with the wheels on
Great, thank you for the quick reply. I was indeed wondering if I can do it as a test to see if it will work out before engaging in the whole process. Also was concerned if there is a risk of damaging something if I just disengaged them and then reversed it for the test.
Evgeni Alexandrov I honestly don’t see why you can’t do a test on it but I’m not 100%
Thank you for the info nice video
great video! thanks
Hello, good video, i have the same car (A4 Avant TDI my09). The actuator of epb is the 12 or 6 torx sides ? I dont understand why there are 2 version
Hey Chris how do I get the program module to open and close the e brake on my 2014 audi A5
Great video. I am a little confused, why do we need to use the C clamp for?
When you use the vag-com to back off the ebrake, you still need to manually push the caliper piston back in using the C clamp. Make sure to use the vag-com to back off the electronic e brake first before you use the c-clamp to push the piston back in. If you don't push the piston back in you wont be able to fit your new brake pads over the rotor.
@@chrisdelucia2672 Thanks a lot, that makes so much sense now. I thought the vag-com would retract the calipers too. I see that you mentioned that without the C clamp I can do something with a screw driver. Can I do something like these guys have done in this video at 3:05 minutes? th-cam.com/video/zFZJj39FZ3s/w-d-xo.html
Absolutely that will work fine
@@chrisdelucia2672 appreciate your quick replies. I'll find out tomorrow how good my skills are. 🤣
Good luck!
Do you need to open the brake fluid cap when only changing the brake pads?
The reservoir is vented ti allow fluid to be pulled down when your pads wear so it should allow it to push fluid back into it, BUT I always take the top off to be safe
thank you
do you need to replace carrier bolts?
You can if you prefer, but I have not and believe there is no need to
My parking brakes is making a hard squeal when engaging on my b8.5 any ideas what might be the cause of it?
Do you really need vagcom to replace pads? Not planning on doing anything with the E brake
You need to electronically spin back in the e brake or you will break it trying to push the pistons back into the caliper. You need a vag com or other tool to do this
Chris DeLucia do the front brakes require vagcom too?
No they do not
Chris DeLucia thank god 😂😂, you’ve been great! Thanks man!
👍🏻
Had a hard time removing the carrier bolts in the rear. Can't get air tools or long breaker bar from available positions to try and break the bolt. Any recommendations? I got one loose but the bottom one seriously has limited space and is hard to break.
Try spraying it with PB blaster and letting it sit for a few hours then try to break it loose
What about simply using a 12volt battery with a couple of leads one way opens other closes
if you want to risk screwing it up, you can try that method. The cost of replacing the e-brake mechanism would be 2x more than buying a vag-com from rosstech.
Hi
Can you give me an information from where I buy the cable and the software?
875- Performance you can go to Ross-techs website or look online, I think eBay has some knock offs that I have heard work but have no experience using one.
So it is safe to lift car up on jacks stands after disabling the brake like this? The car will not move?
wheel blocks are your friends. I put a brick in front of each wheel.
I don't have that computer for break caliper push back .. can I just push it back with c clamp bye itself
No you cant. There is a tricky way to get it back in but DO NOT just try to push it back in with a c clamp or you will break the electronic E brake.
Do u have to use a vag com from Ross tech, they're kinda expensive. I've seen some on Ebay for cheaper. Would they do the same thing. ?
I have heard of other people using the ones off eBay without issues but I have no experience with that myself. Good luck!
I used a autel with no issues.
What size are rear rotors ?
Can you use a scan tool to get the electronic e-brake to release?
Jamond Jackson Yes , I used scan tool CARISTA witch cost me about $30 from Amazon. Also you can do some customizing on your car .
caristaapp.com/
to retract rear brake piston after parking brake released on B8 models I seen videos where they needed a special tool, one that rotates and retract the piston at the same time. Can someone tell me about this - does Audi uses diferent versions on their cars. I can also tell you that EU Audis don't have regular bolts for brackets but torx.
This is literally what the VAGCOM cable does. You don't need a tool. It is done electronically
Do you need to keep ignition on the whole time ?
You do not
c.delucia What about changing the pad thickness? Theres something about that on ross tech.
I did exactly what I showed in the video. It will automatically push the pads in until it feels the pads touch the rotor, and then back off slightly.
hey are the rear brakes on these 300mm? or 330mm?
300mm
What are the torque specs for those bolts?
Rear Brake Caliper to Brake Carrier Bolt 35 nm
Rear Brake Carrier to Wheel Bearing Housing Bolt - 100 nm + 90 degrees
100nm plus 90 degrees hard to do the 90 degrees,is there a total amount of nm together? and is this spec also same in a 2012 audi q5?ty
Hey so I’m so confused why did u need to go on to the soft ware and do that for the brakes did u need to do it to change the break pads?
The vag-com retracts the electronic parking brake mechanism. If you do not retract it, attempting to remove the brake pads will break the servo which costs $440 for just the part.
Thanks for the video. Do you know if the Vagcom Lite version will allow you to retract the EPB or do I need to buy the full version?
Hi Jaclyn, this is
c.delucia
's Video.
I just finished changing my brake/rotors and it was actually very simple. No need to bleed the brakes really, just pop open your brake fluid cap in the hood. You pump the brakes at the very end, after putting in your new brake pads and reinstalling your caliper/wheels. Hope that helps.
Just as Siroti said you do not need to bleed the brakes just pump them once the new pads are in. You will push the pistons behind the pads all the way back in to get your new pads in place, pumping the brakes will push those pistons back out so they sit tight between your pad and rotor.
I had a quick question since I’m sort of stuck right now at the moment. I can’t push my caliper back into the place. You used a clamp but they auto shop keeps telling me I need a 3 pin brake piston wind back adapter ?
first u need to rewind the brake motor using the vag tool or an autel brake scanner then u can use a vise to push the piston otherwise you will never ever be able to push it in place
Can anyone confirm this method works without damaging anything? I've seen videos where they use vagcom / OBD11 to retract and still use a special brake depressor tool as described above. I'm guessing the electronic brake is on a spindle that butts against the piston if this is the case and the extra tool is overkill in the videos I've seen (only required without vagcom). Not sure why else you would need to rotate the piston in. Electronic ebrakes are new to me...
Pretty sure you don't need to remove the caliper bracket. The rotor should slide off with it in place.
If I'm just replacing PADS and not the Rotors, do I need the VagCom since I wont be removing the rotors?
You will still need the vag-com to retract the piston in the caliper and allow the new pads to fit in
Thank you - I realized that soon after. I was thinking the ebrake were separate shoes inside the rotor.
I don’t know whether to use the clamp and risk braking caliper or just order the special tool help please
Standard rear calipers without electronic e brakes need to be spun as they are pushed it and would require the tool you are talking about. With these calipers you do not need to spin them as they are pushed in. Use the vag-com to retract the e-brake and then push the piston in with a C clamp like i did in the video.
I read if you use your old pad then use a C-Clamp to compress the brakes, that's the easiest method.
Yes you can do that once the electronic e brake has been spun back in using the vag-com
Why didn't you bleed the brakes?
Don Kleppinger when changing the pads and rotors there is no need to bleed the system. This is only needed if you replace the calipers or master cylinder.
no sensor on that side
i had my pads changed front and rear, and now my brake pads warning light lights up everytime i start the car.
Check the wear sensor on the front, the connection might be broken. If its not that then check the brake fluid to see if its low.
@@chrisdelucia2672 thanks man i reckon its the sensor thats broke
Can you just work on the rear brake pads without parking brake engaged? Without needing scan tool..?
Yeah you can. Remove the electrical plug then take some wires and attach them to a battery and reverse the motor on the e brake all the way out manually and you're sorted. Might be an idea to use a 9v battery if its your first time so the motor runs a bit slower.
Sweet! Thank you for the help! U should make a channel here :)
Does your car has only 1 side?
🤦♂️🤦♂️🤦♂️
If you are going to do a DIY, please, please, I think, it must be a literal follow up.🤷♂️
You want to see the exact same thing twice? You might be the only one that needs to see the other side done and its odd you're proud of it