Thank you Jon! It does take a while to accumulate this kind of gear but I'm not sure all of it is completely necessary. The Panasonic audio analyzer is fantastic but there are much cheaper solutions that can technically do as good a job for around $600. The QuantAsylum QA403 is excellent and I will probably pick one up eventually just to play with. Thanks for watching!
First, I wanted to say thanks for this whole series of videos! I think they were the right length and allowed you to explain things sufficiently in depth to allow those of us that are new to this type of thing to follow along and understand. Although I think that some people who are very experienced in electronics may watch, I think that there are more of us newbs watching something like this so once again your length and, more importantly, teaching methods are just right! Second, I've got a couple of simple questions for you regarding this video. When you removed the plastic tuning dial to replace the velum behind it, what type of adhesive did you use to reattach it? My second question regards adhesives as well. What type of adhesive did you use to reattach the tab used to secure the lamp housing to the receiver? That's all I've got for now, but I'm sure I'll be stumped on some of the harder stuff in the future. Once again thanks for the videos, I liked, subscribed, and commented. Please keep them coming.
First, thank you for the kind words and feedback on the videos length and format! For the vellum adhesive, have had success in the past using a neutral pH, acid-free glue like this one (www.amazon.com/dp/B001I6FEHE/?coliid=I198K1RJ9FNP3M). That said, I avoid using glue whenever possible because it's messy, it tends to go where I don't it to go, and it can cause the vellum to look "weird" if you use too much. For this 2215B, and for all the Marantz I've worked on, I use a bit of scotch tape on the left and right. There is almost no reason to need to secure the vellum anyway because the dial faceplate is pushing the vellum back against the chassis and the little securing bar is holding the faceplate. So, no real need. A tiny bit of tape is sufficient. On the plastic tab, I used super glue. I have a ton of little "one use" tubes of 1.5g super glue. Search for Quickstar Japon Yapistirici and you'll find it on ali express. Happy to answer any additional questions.
Couple of things this one reminded me of when I restored mine: The 3D CAD model for the lamp housing and the single bulb were available in the 3D printing forums for free and they are far superior to the originals. I also bought the blue LEDs as well as the warm white from WOJO. While I’m not a fan of “resto mod”, I ended up using the blue, bought a black reproduction faceplate and powder coated the top in black. So mine has effectively the Mac look. It can always be reversed as needed. I also found out the 3M dot glue dispensers are perfect for putting down the new vellum paper.
Wow. I will have to look for that 3D model. Thank you for mentioning it! I saw a black 2215B yesterday and it was beautiful for sure. I appreciate you watching and commenting!
Do you know of someone who prints and sells the Marantz lamp housings? I don't have a 3D printer nor the experience in using one so to do something like that would require me putting in a lot of time to learn how. Thanks!
@@brianhagerty7248 I actually bought the first 3D printed housing for my 2385 about 10 years ago on eBay. I bet there are still some individuals selling them.
@@brianhagerty7248 good question. I seem to remember seeing someone on eBay who is doing it. This guy has one but maybe you can find someone doing it cheaper? tinyurl.com/4376bk7e
This is a good video for Marantz alignment... Now I just wish I had the fancy equipment that you have, I'm jealous.
Thank you Jon! It does take a while to accumulate this kind of gear but I'm not sure all of it is completely necessary. The Panasonic audio analyzer is fantastic but there are much cheaper solutions that can technically do as good a job for around $600. The QuantAsylum QA403 is excellent and I will probably pick one up eventually just to play with. Thanks for watching!
First, I wanted to say thanks for this whole series of videos! I think they were the right length and allowed you to explain things sufficiently in depth to allow those of us that are new to this type of thing to follow along and understand. Although I think that some people who are very experienced in electronics may watch, I think that there are more of us newbs watching something like this so once again your length and, more importantly, teaching methods are just right!
Second, I've got a couple of simple questions for you regarding this video. When you removed the plastic tuning dial to replace the velum behind it, what type of adhesive did you use to reattach it? My second question regards adhesives as well. What type of adhesive did you use to reattach the tab used to secure the lamp housing to the receiver?
That's all I've got for now, but I'm sure I'll be stumped on some of the harder stuff in the future. Once again thanks for the videos, I liked, subscribed, and commented. Please keep them coming.
First, thank you for the kind words and feedback on the videos length and format!
For the vellum adhesive, have had success in the past using a neutral pH, acid-free glue like this one (www.amazon.com/dp/B001I6FEHE/?coliid=I198K1RJ9FNP3M). That said, I avoid using glue whenever possible because it's messy, it tends to go where I don't it to go, and it can cause the vellum to look "weird" if you use too much. For this 2215B, and for all the Marantz I've worked on, I use a bit of scotch tape on the left and right. There is almost no reason to need to secure the vellum anyway because the dial faceplate is pushing the vellum back against the chassis and the little securing bar is holding the faceplate. So, no real need. A tiny bit of tape is sufficient.
On the plastic tab, I used super glue. I have a ton of little "one use" tubes of 1.5g super glue. Search for Quickstar Japon Yapistirici and you'll find it on ali express.
Happy to answer any additional questions.
Couple of things this one reminded me of when I restored mine:
The 3D CAD model for the lamp housing and the single bulb were available in the 3D printing forums for free and they are far superior to the originals.
I also bought the blue LEDs as well as the warm white from WOJO. While I’m not a fan of “resto mod”, I ended up using the blue, bought a black reproduction faceplate and powder coated the top in black. So mine has effectively the Mac look. It can always be reversed as needed.
I also found out the 3M dot glue dispensers are perfect for putting down the new vellum paper.
Wow. I will have to look for that 3D model. Thank you for mentioning it! I saw a black 2215B yesterday and it was beautiful for sure. I appreciate you watching and commenting!
Do you know of someone who prints and sells the Marantz lamp housings? I don't have a 3D printer nor the experience in using one so to do something like that would require me putting in a lot of time to learn how. Thanks!
@@brianhagerty7248 I actually bought the first 3D printed housing for my 2385 about 10 years ago on eBay. I bet there are still some individuals selling them.
@@brianhagerty7248 good question. I seem to remember seeing someone on eBay who is doing it. This guy has one but maybe you can find someone doing it cheaper?
tinyurl.com/4376bk7e
@@TheMakerShopTech - Thank you kindly, Sir!
Really enjoyed this video! I need to invest in better tools. Thanks for sharing!
Thank you sir! Glad you liked it! Several more are coming soon.
@ I may need your assistance with a project.
@@PossibleAudio how can I help?
@@TheMakerShopTech I'll send you an email. Thanks