@@TheNCGardener I do, but it had 100% fruit drop first season, as Pastiliere typically does. My personal rule is NOT to sell cuttings until I have verified a variety by ripening it fully. While my figs looked like a Pastiliere and dropped like a Pastiliere, until I can bring the tree to maturity and photograph the fruit, I won't be selling it.
Hi there. I wanted to mention that you have many cuttings in your bin with "open wounds", the tops are not sealed. That may be the main reason why you're getting fungus, rot and disease growing on them, due to your sprayings and water sitting on top of those cuts. Plus, they are in your bin and maintaining moisture doesn't give them a chance to dry and heal. I wrap mine with grafting tape or put tree sealant on the tops to ensure rot or disease doesn't occur. Good luck!
You are correct, my cuttings are not sealed. However, they were fairly "healed over" when I got them. They were fully lignified and hardened and didn't have a soft center by any means. I have not had any powdery fungus on any of the tops with cuts, just a few instances against fully lignified wood which have not returned after treating with hydrogen peroxide. So far, nearly all my cuttings have rooted (I have 5 stragglers, but 3 are budding) so I haven't had any instances of rot at all. I started cracking the bin weeks ago after the initial roots came in so they would adapt to lower humidity environments, and now the lid is sitting on top 90 degrees so half the bin is open. I'm not collecting humidity anymore, and soon I will remove the lid in its entirety. In another week, most of the cuttings will be so tall I will not be able to put the lid on! Bear in mind my winter here on the immediate North Carolina coast is very short and mild. I think we have only had 5 frosts or so this year, and it looks like we won't even be dipping below freezing over the next 2 weeks (our lows the past week have been in the mid 50's and lower 60's). Our "spring" kicks in around the first week of February, and I will be potting these plants up and bringing them outdoors to adapt in about 6-8 weeks and bringing them in the garage when necessary overnight. Our frosts and freezes end around mid-March, so I don't have this long period where I have to maintain the cuttings indoors til May like so many folks have to suffer through. It allows me to not have to prepare as thoroughly as folks with longer, harsher winters.
It would be interesting to see different concentration of hydrogen peroxide on bacteria or fungus colonies under a microscope. I have applied full strength 3 % hydrogen peroxide to spring leaves with cedar rust disease. And didnt see negative effects or any foaming on the leaves throughout that summer . The cedar rust blotches weren't effected either. . I have used hydrogen peroxide to foam off the Cambium layer off airlayer. Not the green cambium but the cambium that is beneath the green which is a slight darker tint than the white wood below that.. I will try spraying 3% hydrogen peroxide on newly sprouted leaves to see wether they eventually die . If there is no foaming therefore no chemical reaction is there anything being sterilized? Spraying 3% hydrogen peroxide on shear blades and grafting blades doesnt foam that I can tell. I wonder if anything is dieing I have had two accidental incidence where lak of moisture developed vigorous root growth one was ornamental conifer fonds I used as greens in a compost pile at the pile's very bottom developed vigorous root growth over a three month period. This past summer . Almost no rain fell. When digging up the pile I discovered in the dry bottom vigorous root growth that appeared as dry sphagnum moss The white root s were fine and created a mat . They grew from the conifer fonds now browned. The second insidence was a brown Turkey tree I planted and applied water only till July I dug the Tree up in late October and the very dry soil . No evidence of moisture the root ball had expanded double in area with beige roots had grown at least a foot in to hard packed and very dry clay soil I'm proposing that much less moisture than the usual description of compress it into a ball and squeeze out the water droplets is the right dampness. I intend to try an experiment with fig cuttings to make the soil media as recommended by you and many others , fist tight squeeze. And compare it to blotted soil using cardboard as an asorbant under pressure to get a much drier rooting soil to see if a drier soil will promote better rooting The idea was suggested to me by Mike kincaid yet he sprays down his soil with a hose and huge water droplets appear on his tote lids. Never the less , he came up with theory that the stress of lack of moisture forces the calloused cutting to grow root more vigoriously. I haven't seen Mike ever restrict moisture in rooting medium. maybe his sucess is due to his fur bark rooting medium
Your a life saver. My cuttings were starting to get mold so I ran to Walmart and got some hydrogen peroxide and mixed it 10:1 with warm water and sprayed down my cuttings. Fingers crossed :)
Oh no! Let us know how it goes. If you don’t see results after 48 hours but the cuttings are not harmed by the spray, consider upping the ratio a little and treating again. Good luck!
@@TheMillennialGardener thanks for the tip. I will keep checking on it. How are your figs now? I have a couple Desert King cuttings on the way. I need to make sure I can successfully grow all my cuttings before I get the I258, BM, etc
I have been traveling for work for the past 2 weeks and fly home tomorrow. I left them in the care of my girlfriend. I am crossing my fingers and hoping for the best when I came home tomorrow. From the last photo she sent me, two of my I-258’s are leafing out, so I am happy about that.
@Anderson⸻⸻⸻⸻⸻⸻⸻⸻⸻⸻⸻⸻⸻⸻⸻⸻⸻⸻⸻⸻⸻⸻⸻⸻⸻⸻⸻⸻⸻⸻⸻⸻⸻⸻⸻⸻⸻⸻⸻ it does make a big difference in terms of controlling mold. I highly recommend it. It's been a while since the original comment but I remember having a pretty good success rate with my fig cuttings
It doesn't take much. You can always increase the concentration if you find the dilute mixture doesn't work, but keep in mind if you make it too strong and burn plants, there is no going back. It's like salt - you can always add more, but you can't take it away when you add too much. Always be conservative.
What's your name Millennial Gardener? I've been having fungal issues with my ornamental Cherry trees every year. By September all their leaves have dropped. I suspect it was the Miracid I was spraying... Daconyl was worthless btw. Where is that wonderful video you did with a schedule of peroxide (1 cup per sprayer gallon) which you alternated with another ingredient (copper sulfite?)? Your videos are great btw. You know your stuff. My figs are doing great- in part thanks to you!
I am trying to grow grapes from the vines left over after eating the grapes off from storebought grapes - this way you get a free grape plant! - I did everything right but got mold in 3 days HEAVILY - like 1mm thick all over in balls where each grape used to be! - probably grew on the leftover rotting grape flesh; I flushed them all down the toilet, but after this video, I will perhaps try again using this method often to give them time to root perhaps. I don't even know if it is possible to treat such little fruiting sections of a grapevine as a cutting but I figured it was worth a shot.
@@SKITTZ0 the little stick leading to the web of the "bunches" I figured was a vine stick. But perhaps its a branch that can't root and the main vine isn't the same genetics as the stick leading into the bunches
MY PERMACULTURE GARDEN I think a little more phosphorous in the form of bone meal or garden line (depending on your pH) and, if you choose, a hit of a soluble synthetic like MG Bloom Booster 15-30-15 will get you where you need to be.
Hi, thank you for your videos. Two weeks ago I started on trying to root some cuttings that I bought online, followed last year's video you made, the only difference is I covered the majority of the cups and cuttings with mulch all the way to the top. Left the tote bin partially open and had a seedling heater on the bottom. I live in zone 10A, so I decided to leave them on the porch outside with indirect sunlight. I just opened them today and of the 6 only one rooted, most are budding and all have fungus and I suspect that is because I left the wrapping paper that they came in on the top half to protect them in my mind precisely from fungus. I'm going to spray them but I'm not sure what's the time frame to know if it was fail for the rest. Thank you again for your videos and your time.
Two weeks usually isn't long enough to root cuttings. Usually, it takes anywhere from 3-5 weeks. However, it sounds like your cuttings are too moist. I have had cuttings root an entire 2 months later, so as long as the cutting is still solid and not rotting, it's fine. There is no set time for a fig cutting to rot because it's highly dependent on the conditions.
There's too much humidity inside the plastic box, therefore mold and fuzz will start. You need to allow a little bit of air inside the box, so drill holes on the cover or lift the cover up a little bit with something to allow airflow in. The soil is already wet, so don't worry about humidity.
I know you don’t “need” humidity to root the cuttings, but I had much higher rates of propagation using it. Using humidity, I had nearly 100% success. Without it, it was closer to 50%. I believe it helps speed up the rooting process by regulating soil moisture. Yes, you can have mold issues, but that’s easily solved with hydrogen peroxide spray. The toughest part about rooting figs, in my opinion, is managing even soil moisture. Humidity really helps with that. I would let the humidity out by opening the lid and placing it on top on a small angle.
@@TheMillennialGardenerCuttings with humidity is a better way to go, but your setup had way too much humidity with condensation on the sides. That's why you have mold and fuzz. Two weeks ago I put 4 cuttings in a 6" wide clear pot with moist soil and placed a plastic bag over it and tucked the bottom under the pot with a walnut-size opening. On the 11th day, roots can be seen. The moist soil produces humidity inside the bag and there's no condensation on the inside. You need to leave an opening so it can breathe.
@@edj2745 Mike Kincaid had an excellent series on rooting cuttings last spring. He did a brilliant thing - he placed a layer of mulch underneath his cups inside his bins. I had a terrible time with the bottoms drying out, which caused too much routine watering, which caused too much humidity. I am going to do what Mike did and place a couple inches of fine mulch down at the bottom of the container. This should prevent my cups from drying out, which should prevent me from needing to water, which should minimize humidity. I think adding this will improve my success for next year. Fingers crossed. I recommend checking out his series from this past spring.
Thanks for all your videos. Can you tell me or point me to a video about what to do with cuttings that I just started to root a few weeks ago from now on during winter? I’m on South Carolina . Thanks
Cuttings that are just rooting now will need to be overwintered, unfortunately. They aren't going to have hardwood on them to survive frosts and freezes. What I usually do is I put my plants in a garden cart. I pull the cart out of my garage when temps are above freezing in the day (usually after 9AM), then I wheel the cart back into the garage before sunset. Here in the Wilmington area, we're above freezing 365 days a year during the daytime. I imagine you're similar.
Hi Millennial Gardener. I dropped 3 of my Italian Honey cuttings that where in clear solo cups. Now the leaves are dying. Should I keep trying to bring them back to life or should I trash them and start with new cuttings?
If the roots are intact, you can try to re-pot them gently and move them to a fully shaded location with no direct sunlight to see if they recover. However, the chances of them surviving once they get disturbed like that are low. Unfortunately.
Hi, my apricot cuttings made leaves then became moldy, then some rot, then some dry out…. the leaves of apricot are very sensitive not like figs, pomegranate or oleander… any suggestions how to root apricot cuttings?Thanks
It's not something I've done. The easiest way would be grafting, but you'd have to get yourself rootstock. It's usually pretty easy and cheap to buy rootstock, especially now in the spring, so you may want to investigate that. If not, you may need to treat your apricot cuttings with either liquid copper concentrate spray or wettable sulfur to keep the fungus away.
I have watched your videos and have a question. I have a fig tree that is about 25 yrs. old and when I clip it to root , the center contains a white liquid and I have no idea what it is. Can you help me?
That's just the fig sap. It is a latex-based sap and it is very caustic. It can cause a rash on your skin, as well as itching. Sap flow is very high when you cut it in the summer. When the tree goes dormant in the winter, the sap flow will be confined to the roots and the wood won't "bleed" anymore.
Immediately after your last chance of frost, provided the root ball has grown sufficiently large enough to hold together when removed from the container. Do not transplant your cuttings until the root ball is large enough to hold the soil together. When the root ball falls apart, there is a high probability the cutting will die.
Most of my cutting have big leaves on them should I continue with the heat mat and using the grow light ? Can the heat or light at some point harm them ? I have them by my south window getting natural light also and have been using the mat, and light at the same time . Thanks !
mark campolo when does your growing season begin? If you’re within 4-6 weeks of your frost free period, I recommend you start acclimating them to the real sun. I made a video on how to do that here: th-cam.com/video/LKCfmqPkstQ/w-d-xo.html You want to begin bringing them outside on cloudy days, then eventually into morning and evening sun, then eventually full sun. But only when it is above 40 degrees outside, of course.
Yes. Hydrogen peroxide degrades rapidly when exposed to air and light, which is why it comes in those airtight, opaque containers. Once you mix it, it starts degrading immediately, so you have to use it immediately. Hydrogen peroxide is, chemically, H202, and when it's exposed to air and light, it reacts and separates into H20 + 02, meaning it degrades into water and oxygen gas. Use it quickly, and whatever you don't use becomes worthless.
No. Alcohol will almost certainly kill them. Hydrogen peroxide is, chemically, H2O2. It is one molecule away from water, so it quickly disassociates into H2O+O2 (water and oxygen gas) once degraded by air and light. Alcohol will just sit there and burn everything up. I would not put alcohol anywhere near my plants.
@@clarencegeorge6853 I've sprayed alcohol on plants to kill bugs. It evaporated off and the plants lived. If your plant dies it's more likely due to it running out of water, soil/root rot, or damaged stems.
If the bottoms of the cuttings are rotting, there is no saving that wood. If the cuttings are large and have multiple nodes, you could cut off the rotting wood until you see fresh, green hardwood and re-pot the cutting in fresh soil. There is a chance it could still root. But if you leave the rotted wood on, it's a goner.
@@TheMillennialGardenerthanks for this comment. I think I got them way too wet and made the lid too tight at the first. They are mildewed. I can save most of them bc I have 3-5 nodes on most of them. Wish me luck!
I have found that 8 Tablespoons per Gallon begins being effective at controlling fungus without being too harsh. 8 Tablespoons is 118 milliliters, and 1 Gallon is 3.785 liters, so....118/3.785 = about 31 milliliters per liter.
Dan L I tried both with and without the cover and the figs did better with the cover. Much higher % success. In a fig’s natural environment in the Mediterranean, it is pretty humid when they naturally air layer themselves in the spring and summer. I don’t know if the humidity helped, the lid on helped regulate temps better, or it was just random luck. I didn’t get much mold because I brought them outside into the sun with the lid off every day once they rooted, and any light fuzz the hydrogen peroxide immediately killed.
You could, but you're probably going to overspray and get water all over your floor. I don't like spraying anything indoors, because something always gets wet. In order to spray evenly, you're going to have to stand back, so you'll want some room to do so.
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There is a lot of debate on this subject. Some people say you need humidity. Some say you do not. The truth is probably somewhere in the middle. Does it help, and if so, how much? Tough to tell without a controlled experiment, which I do not have. I can tell you I rooted cuttings in the middle of the summer off an actively growing plant and they needed humidity. I had to keep them bagged or the new growth would wither away. Right now, everything is going along swimmingly and I am not going to mess with success. Everything is budding and rooting except my I-258 cuttings (they’re less than 2 weeks old), so I’m going to maintain the “if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it” path. I’ll probably make a few tweaks next year based on this experience, though. The closed lid isn’t just about humidity, it is also about maintaining temps from the sun. They really explode with growth on sunny days. It is amazing to watch how fast these grow once they wake from dormancy.
+The Millennial Gardener. if its off a dormant cutting, scientifically speaking, humidity is not required. You will have many successes with humidity but it will create problems if the leaves come out in a humid environment n then go to non humid. Its just easier w/o humidity bc no transition is needed and success rate is 100% if not saturated with moisture. Good luck and enjoy!!!
I suggest test-spraying. Start with a weak solution and increase concentration if your test sprays show no damage. It is better to be conservative than to go too strong and burn up your trees.
Ah, I understand. I recommend watching some videos on the Figbid website. It is the BEST place to get cuttings and plants on the Internet. At least that I’ve found. You can also check Willsfigs. He will be selling trees starting April 1. If you buy immediately he will probably have an I-258 but you need to check the site constantly because they sell out very quickly.
Do you have eny Italian I 258 for sale sale me one tree 🌲 please be nice 👍 I need one of those trees I’m here in New Jersey please let me know thanks 🙏
Unfortunately, I do not. I successfully rooted 3, but my neighbors overwatered one to death when I went on vacation, and another got blown over in a wind storm and I’m afraid isn’t going to make it. I only have one healthy plant left. So sad.
Carlos Rivera it is an auction site kind of like eBay. This is one of the trees. It goes to the highest bidder when the auction closes. www.figbid.com/Listing/Details/2221125/Raspberry-Latte-Fig-Tree-6-Pot-wEmbossed-Tag
Carlos Rivera the only figs I have for sale are two Raspberry Latte’s. They’re currently on Figbid and the auction ends in 4 days. You can bid on them if you want. They’re nice sized trees. It’ll take me probably 2 years before my trees grow large enough to provide cuttings. Assuming they all survive.
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Do you have a pastiliere? I am looking for one and I would buy cuttings from you.
@@TheNCGardener I do, but it had 100% fruit drop first season, as Pastiliere typically does. My personal rule is NOT to sell cuttings until I have verified a variety by ripening it fully. While my figs looked like a Pastiliere and dropped like a Pastiliere, until I can bring the tree to maturity and photograph the fruit, I won't be selling it.
Hi there. I wanted to mention that you have many cuttings in your bin with "open wounds", the tops are not sealed. That may be the main reason why you're getting fungus, rot and disease growing on them, due to your sprayings and water sitting on top of those cuts. Plus, they are in your bin and maintaining moisture doesn't give them a chance to dry and heal. I wrap mine with grafting tape or put tree sealant on the tops to ensure rot or disease doesn't occur. Good luck!
You are correct, my cuttings are not sealed. However, they were fairly "healed over" when I got them. They were fully lignified and hardened and didn't have a soft center by any means. I have not had any powdery fungus on any of the tops with cuts, just a few instances against fully lignified wood which have not returned after treating with hydrogen peroxide. So far, nearly all my cuttings have rooted (I have 5 stragglers, but 3 are budding) so I haven't had any instances of rot at all. I started cracking the bin weeks ago after the initial roots came in so they would adapt to lower humidity environments, and now the lid is sitting on top 90 degrees so half the bin is open. I'm not collecting humidity anymore, and soon I will remove the lid in its entirety. In another week, most of the cuttings will be so tall I will not be able to put the lid on! Bear in mind my winter here on the immediate North Carolina coast is very short and mild. I think we have only had 5 frosts or so this year, and it looks like we won't even be dipping below freezing over the next 2 weeks (our lows the past week have been in the mid 50's and lower 60's). Our "spring" kicks in around the first week of February, and I will be potting these plants up and bringing them outdoors to adapt in about 6-8 weeks and bringing them in the garage when necessary overnight. Our frosts and freezes end around mid-March, so I don't have this long period where I have to maintain the cuttings indoors til May like so many folks have to suffer through. It allows me to not have to prepare as thoroughly as folks with longer, harsher winters.
It would be interesting to see different concentration of hydrogen peroxide on bacteria or fungus colonies under a microscope. I have applied full strength 3 % hydrogen peroxide to spring leaves with cedar rust disease. And didnt see negative effects or any foaming on the leaves throughout that summer . The cedar rust blotches weren't effected either. . I have used hydrogen peroxide to foam off the Cambium layer off airlayer. Not the green cambium but the cambium that is beneath the green which is a slight darker tint than the white wood below that..
I will try spraying 3% hydrogen peroxide on newly sprouted leaves to see wether they eventually die . If there is no foaming therefore no chemical reaction is there anything being sterilized? Spraying 3% hydrogen peroxide on shear blades and grafting blades doesnt foam that I can tell. I wonder if anything is dieing
I have had two accidental incidence where lak of moisture developed vigorous root growth one was ornamental conifer fonds I used as greens in a compost pile at the pile's very bottom developed vigorous root growth over a three month period. This past summer . Almost no rain fell. When digging up the pile I discovered in the dry bottom vigorous root growth that appeared as dry sphagnum moss
The white root s were fine and created a mat . They grew from the conifer fonds now browned.
The second insidence was a brown Turkey tree I planted and applied water only till July I dug the Tree up in late October and the very dry soil . No evidence of moisture the root ball had expanded double in area with beige roots had grown at least a foot in to hard packed and very dry clay soil
I'm proposing that much less moisture than the usual description of compress it into a ball and squeeze out the water droplets is the right dampness. I intend to try an experiment with fig cuttings to make the soil media as recommended by you and many others , fist tight squeeze. And compare it to blotted soil using cardboard as an asorbant under pressure to get a much drier rooting soil to see if a drier soil will promote better rooting
The idea was suggested to me by Mike kincaid yet he sprays down his soil with a hose and huge water droplets appear on his tote lids. Never the less , he came up with theory that the stress of lack of moisture forces the calloused cutting to grow root more vigoriously.
I haven't seen Mike ever restrict moisture in rooting medium. maybe his sucess is due to his fur bark rooting medium
Your a life saver. My cuttings were starting to get mold so I ran to Walmart and got some hydrogen peroxide and mixed it 10:1 with warm water and sprayed down my cuttings. Fingers crossed :)
Oh no! Let us know how it goes. If you don’t see results after 48 hours but the cuttings are not harmed by the spray, consider upping the ratio a little and treating again. Good luck!
@@TheMillennialGardener thanks for the tip. I will keep checking on it. How are your figs now? I have a couple Desert King cuttings on the way. I need to make sure I can successfully grow all my cuttings before I get the I258, BM, etc
I have been traveling for work for the past 2 weeks and fly home tomorrow. I left them in the care of my girlfriend. I am crossing my fingers and hoping for the best when I came home tomorrow. From the last photo she sent me, two of my I-258’s are leafing out, so I am happy about that.
ALBONGardens I say just go for it and throw in a bunch of varieties, caution to the wind! Something has gotta take 😃
@Anderson⸻⸻⸻⸻⸻⸻⸻⸻⸻⸻⸻⸻⸻⸻⸻⸻⸻⸻⸻⸻⸻⸻⸻⸻⸻⸻⸻⸻⸻⸻⸻⸻⸻⸻⸻⸻⸻⸻⸻ it does make a big difference in terms of controlling mold. I highly recommend it. It's been a while since the original comment but I remember having a pretty good success rate with my fig cuttings
Awesome Video. Great information. I love your meticulous dedication. How awesome for those babies! Yay.
Please keep those videos coming. Loving it!❤
Thank you! I’ll be trying this tonight with my orange and grapefruit cuttings.
Let us know how it goes!
Hard to grow with cuttings. The varieties are grafted on root stock which are native plant type from seed.
Thanks for this. This is my first time rooting fig cuttings and we have a mold situation, but on the soil. I will try this tonight. Fingers crossed
Katherine Mallia let me know how it works out. In my experience, it clears up fuzzy mold in a couple hours.
Think you I needed that advice I am a beginner in propagation and with your advice cured my plants thank you
Excellent! Glad to hear it! Thanks for watching!
Thanks for sharing this video! I’m definitely going to try this on my fig cuttings in the future.
Thanks for watching!
The container is introducing moisture settling on the cuttings causing the mold. Get them out of the container or keep the lid off.
Great man I will try it with my Geraniums cuttings because I have some mold
Thats a surprisingly dilute mixture.
It doesn't take much. You can always increase the concentration if you find the dilute mixture doesn't work, but keep in mind if you make it too strong and burn plants, there is no going back. It's like salt - you can always add more, but you can't take it away when you add too much. Always be conservative.
What's your name Millennial Gardener? I've been having fungal issues with my ornamental Cherry trees every year. By September all their leaves have dropped. I suspect it was the Miracid I was spraying... Daconyl was worthless btw. Where is that wonderful video you did with a schedule of peroxide (1 cup per sprayer gallon) which you alternated with another ingredient (copper sulfite?)? Your videos are great btw. You know your stuff. My figs are doing great- in part thanks to you!
❤which one should i apply first when root cutting
propagation....
hydrogen peroxide or rooting hormone., please???
I am trying to grow grapes from the vines left over after eating the grapes off from storebought grapes - this way you get a free grape plant! - I did everything right but got mold in 3 days HEAVILY - like 1mm thick all over in balls where each grape used to be! - probably grew on the leftover rotting grape flesh; I flushed them all down the toilet, but after this video, I will perhaps try again using this method often to give them time to root perhaps. I don't even know if it is possible to treat such little fruiting sections of a grapevine as a cutting but I figured it was worth a shot.
What kind of store sells grapes by the vine? Store bought grapes are bunches, and you can't root bunches.
@@SKITTZ0 the little stick leading to the web of the "bunches" I figured was a vine stick. But perhaps its a branch that can't root and the main vine isn't the same genetics as the stick leading into the bunches
Cinnamon powder is a natural rooter and kills mold, mildew...
Do you dust it on or in a water mixter? I'm using the perlite sand method where the figs are laying down
Thanks again. My big fig trees have no figs, but lots of foliage !
MY PERMACULTURE GARDEN I think a little more phosphorous in the form of bone meal or garden line (depending on your pH) and, if you choose, a hit of a soluble synthetic like MG Bloom Booster 15-30-15 will get you where you need to be.
@@TheMillennialGardener ~~~~~ Thank you !
Will this work for hydrangea cuttings n should I cut off the fuzz first it's on the top of my stem n leaves have fallen off
Hi, thank you for your videos. Two weeks ago I started on trying to root some cuttings that I bought online, followed last year's video you made, the only difference is I covered the majority of the cups and cuttings with mulch all the way to the top. Left the tote bin partially open and had a seedling heater on the bottom. I live in zone 10A, so I decided to leave them on the porch outside with indirect sunlight. I just opened them today and of the 6 only one rooted, most are budding and all have fungus and I suspect that is because I left the wrapping paper that they came in on the top half to protect them in my mind precisely from fungus. I'm going to spray them but I'm not sure what's the time frame to know if it was fail for the rest. Thank you again for your videos and your time.
Two weeks usually isn't long enough to root cuttings. Usually, it takes anywhere from 3-5 weeks. However, it sounds like your cuttings are too moist. I have had cuttings root an entire 2 months later, so as long as the cutting is still solid and not rotting, it's fine. There is no set time for a fig cutting to rot because it's highly dependent on the conditions.
@@TheMillennialGardener Thank you!
There's too much humidity inside the plastic box, therefore mold and fuzz will start. You need to allow a little bit of air inside the box, so drill holes on the cover or lift the cover up a little bit with something to allow airflow in. The soil is already wet, so don't worry about humidity.
I know you don’t “need” humidity to root the cuttings, but I had much higher rates of propagation using it. Using humidity, I had nearly 100% success. Without it, it was closer to 50%. I believe it helps speed up the rooting process by regulating soil moisture. Yes, you can have mold issues, but that’s easily solved with hydrogen peroxide spray. The toughest part about rooting figs, in my opinion, is managing even soil moisture. Humidity really helps with that. I would let the humidity out by opening the lid and placing it on top on a small angle.
@@TheMillennialGardenerCuttings with humidity is a better way to go, but your setup had way too much humidity with condensation on the sides. That's why you have mold and fuzz. Two weeks ago I put 4 cuttings in a 6" wide clear pot with moist soil and placed a plastic bag over it and tucked the bottom under the pot with a walnut-size opening. On the 11th day, roots can be seen. The moist soil produces humidity inside the bag and there's no condensation on the inside. You need to leave an opening so it can breathe.
@@edj2745 Mike Kincaid had an excellent series on rooting cuttings last spring. He did a brilliant thing - he placed a layer of mulch underneath his cups inside his bins. I had a terrible time with the bottoms drying out, which caused too much routine watering, which caused too much humidity. I am going to do what Mike did and place a couple inches of fine mulch down at the bottom of the container. This should prevent my cups from drying out, which should prevent me from needing to water, which should minimize humidity. I think adding this will improve my success for next year. Fingers crossed. I recommend checking out his series from this past spring.
@@TheMillennialGardener Already watched that video last week. Good luck!
Thanks for all your videos. Can you tell me or point me to a video about what to do with cuttings that I just started to root a few weeks ago from now on during winter? I’m on South Carolina . Thanks
Cuttings that are just rooting now will need to be overwintered, unfortunately. They aren't going to have hardwood on them to survive frosts and freezes. What I usually do is I put my plants in a garden cart. I pull the cart out of my garage when temps are above freezing in the day (usually after 9AM), then I wheel the cart back into the garage before sunset. Here in the Wilmington area, we're above freezing 365 days a year during the daytime. I imagine you're similar.
@@TheMillennialGardener do I still need to fertilize but not as often ?
@@TheMillennialGardener do you still occasionally water them ? Fertilize?
Would this work on rose cuttings as well?
Hi Millennial Gardener. I dropped 3 of my Italian Honey cuttings that where in clear solo cups. Now the leaves are dying. Should I keep trying to bring them back to life or should I trash them and start with new cuttings?
If the roots are intact, you can try to re-pot them gently and move them to a fully shaded location with no direct sunlight to see if they recover. However, the chances of them surviving once they get disturbed like that are low. Unfortunately.
Hi, my apricot cuttings made leaves then became moldy, then some rot, then some dry out…. the leaves of apricot are very sensitive not like figs, pomegranate or oleander… any suggestions how to root apricot cuttings?Thanks
It's not something I've done. The easiest way would be grafting, but you'd have to get yourself rootstock. It's usually pretty easy and cheap to buy rootstock, especially now in the spring, so you may want to investigate that. If not, you may need to treat your apricot cuttings with either liquid copper concentrate spray or wettable sulfur to keep the fungus away.
so I can only spray in mid day or night , would it be ideal to spray in the light when I have em veggie or it has to bee in a cool night to spray
I don't recommend spraying hydrogen peroxide in the light because the sun could react and burn the foliage. I recommend spraying after sunset.
@@TheMillennialGardener that's what I thought to but I just did it my self experiment it so diluted it simple did it job
I have watched your videos and have a question. I have a fig tree that is about 25 yrs. old and when I clip it to root , the center contains a white liquid and I have no idea what it is. Can you help me?
That's just the fig sap. It is a latex-based sap and it is very caustic. It can cause a rash on your skin, as well as itching. Sap flow is very high when you cut it in the summer. When the tree goes dormant in the winter, the sap flow will be confined to the roots and the wood won't "bleed" anymore.
What about the soil I've noticed some fungus on top can I also spray the soil?
Yes.
When is it best to transplant the root cuttings?
Immediately after your last chance of frost, provided the root ball has grown sufficiently large enough to hold together when removed from the container. Do not transplant your cuttings until the root ball is large enough to hold the soil together. When the root ball falls apart, there is a high probability the cutting will die.
Most of my cutting have big leaves on them should I continue with the heat mat and using the grow light ? Can the heat or light at some point harm them ? I have them by my south window getting natural light also and have been using the mat, and light at the same time . Thanks !
mark campolo when does your growing season begin? If you’re within 4-6 weeks of your frost free period, I recommend you start acclimating them to the real sun. I made a video on how to do that here: th-cam.com/video/LKCfmqPkstQ/w-d-xo.html
You want to begin bringing them outside on cloudy days, then eventually into morning and evening sun, then eventually full sun. But only when it is above 40 degrees outside, of course.
BY THE WAY..............do u recommend making fresh batch solution every single time...?
Yes. Hydrogen peroxide degrades rapidly when exposed to air and light, which is why it comes in those airtight, opaque containers. Once you mix it, it starts degrading immediately, so you have to use it immediately. Hydrogen peroxide is, chemically, H202, and when it's exposed to air and light, it reacts and separates into H20 + 02, meaning it degrades into water and oxygen gas. Use it quickly, and whatever you don't use becomes worthless.
@@TheMillennialGardener .....thanks
@@josephinedorion1450 you're welcome.
Hi can i spray them with alcohol sanitizer spray? 75% alcohol. Thanks
No. Alcohol will almost certainly kill them. Hydrogen peroxide is, chemically, H2O2. It is one molecule away from water, so it quickly disassociates into H2O+O2 (water and oxygen gas) once degraded by air and light. Alcohol will just sit there and burn everything up. I would not put alcohol anywhere near my plants.
@@TheMillennialGardener thanks. That was my mistake 😩
@@clarencegeorge6853 I've sprayed alcohol on plants to kill bugs. It evaporated off and the plants lived. If your plant dies it's more likely due to it running out of water, soil/root rot, or damaged stems.
Can I water the mixing to soil directly?.I pulled the cuttings and see there're a fungus on cuttings under the soil. Can it still be saved?
If the bottoms of the cuttings are rotting, there is no saving that wood. If the cuttings are large and have multiple nodes, you could cut off the rotting wood until you see fresh, green hardwood and re-pot the cutting in fresh soil. There is a chance it could still root. But if you leave the rotted wood on, it's a goner.
@@TheMillennialGardener Thank you so much.
FastDiscount you’re welcome.
@@TheMillennialGardenerthanks for this comment. I think I got them way too wet and made the lid too tight at the first. They are mildewed. I can save most of them bc I have 3-5 nodes on most of them. Wish me luck!
great movie!. How much Hydrogen Peroxide in millilitre should i use with 1 liter water ?>
I have found that 8 Tablespoons per Gallon begins being effective at controlling fungus without being too harsh. 8 Tablespoons is 118 milliliters, and 1 Gallon is 3.785 liters, so....118/3.785 = about 31 milliliters per liter.
Have you tried not putting a cover on your cuttings? Ive been growing the with no lid and having very good success sand no mold
Dan L I tried both with and without the cover and the figs did better with the cover. Much higher % success. In a fig’s natural environment in the Mediterranean, it is pretty humid when they naturally air layer themselves in the spring and summer. I don’t know if the humidity helped, the lid on helped regulate temps better, or it was just random luck.
I didn’t get much mold because I brought them outside into the sun with the lid off every day once they rooted, and any light fuzz the hydrogen peroxide immediately killed.
So, why do we need to do this outside if the molecules it breaks down into are innocuous? Could we just do this in the bin we're propogating in?
You could, but you're probably going to overspray and get water all over your floor. I don't like spraying anything indoors, because something always gets wet. In order to spray evenly, you're going to have to stand back, so you'll want some room to do so.
Very informative, Thank you! I’m new to uTube…how do I subscribe?
You're welcome! Under the video, there is a red button that says SUBSCRIBE next to the channel name. If you click that, then click the bell next to it, you'll receive notifications when new videos are posted.
hardwood cuttings should not be given humidity
There is a lot of debate on this subject. Some people say you need humidity. Some say you do not. The truth is probably somewhere in the middle. Does it help, and if so, how much? Tough to tell without a controlled experiment, which I do not have.
I can tell you I rooted cuttings in the middle of the summer off an actively growing plant and they needed humidity. I had to keep them bagged or the new growth would wither away. Right now, everything is going along swimmingly and I am not going to mess with success. Everything is budding and rooting except my I-258 cuttings (they’re less than 2 weeks old), so I’m going to maintain the “if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it” path.
I’ll probably make a few tweaks next year based on this experience, though. The closed lid isn’t just about humidity, it is also about maintaining temps from the sun. They really explode with growth on sunny days. It is amazing to watch how fast these grow once they wake from dormancy.
+The Millennial Gardener. if its off a dormant cutting, scientifically speaking, humidity is not required. You will have many successes with humidity but it will create problems if the leaves come out in a humid environment n then go to non humid. Its just easier w/o humidity bc no transition is needed and success rate is 100% if not saturated with moisture. Good luck and enjoy!!!
You’re peroxide solution is a bit weak (0.3%w/v?) ??
I suggest test-spraying. Start with a weak solution and increase concentration if your test sprays show no damage. It is better to be conservative than to go too strong and burn up your trees.
I’m sorry brother I have no idea how to put the betting
Ah, I understand. I recommend watching some videos on the Figbid website. It is the BEST place to get cuttings and plants on the Internet. At least that I’ve found.
You can also check Willsfigs. He will be selling trees starting April 1. If you buy immediately he will probably have an I-258 but you need to check the site constantly because they sell out very quickly.
Do you have eny Italian I 258 for sale sale me one tree 🌲 please be nice 👍 I need one of those trees I’m here in New Jersey please let me know thanks 🙏
Unfortunately, I do not. I successfully rooted 3, but my neighbors overwatered one to death when I went on vacation, and another got blown over in a wind storm and I’m afraid isn’t going to make it. I only have one healthy plant left. So sad.
I’m not really good at that how much you sell the tree
Tell me the price I sent the money 💰
Raspberry leche you said
Carlos Rivera it is an auction site kind of like eBay. This is one of the trees. It goes to the highest bidder when the auction closes.
www.figbid.com/Listing/Details/2221125/Raspberry-Latte-Fig-Tree-6-Pot-wEmbossed-Tag
Hi Carlos again do you have eny desert king figs for sale also if you know someone that have the i 258 for sale let me know please thanks 🙏👏👏👏👏👏👏
Carlos Rivera the only figs I have for sale are two Raspberry Latte’s. They’re currently on Figbid and the auction ends in 4 days. You can bid on them if you want. They’re nice sized trees.
It’ll take me probably 2 years before my trees grow large enough to provide cuttings. Assuming they all survive.
in a video he contradicted himself about covering the cuttings you can see it in his channel .... i gues he just go with the wind.....