Very helpful video. Thank you! Just a note: If your softener comes like mine, you will receive a right-angle drain barb. You'll want to install it before installing the bypass/yoke assembly onto the input valve that he's pointing to in the video at 6:08. You'll need to remove that input valve in order to be able to screw the right-angle drain barb into place. Without removing that valve, it's impossible to turn the barb to screw it in. Not a big deal, but better to know now than to have to backtrack a bit as I did.
I cannot stress enough the importance of watching this video multiple times, unless you install softeners for a living and do at least one every week as a plumbing professional. The video may not be as current as the latest shipping methods, some parts of the softener controller head may already be installled or assembled prior to your shipment. In my case there was no shipment bill of lading showing what parts I should have and the video is the only way to see if you have everything. No doubt at some point this video will be superseded by another making DIY install easier: and sending a link to your plumber can’t hurt either. My plumber should have watched it before arriving.
We have ours all installed but still have very hard water. We are on well water but don’t have an iron problem. We add to the well water number you gave us and the water has not improved at all. I tested the inside and outside water and both read very hard 250 ppm. I sure hope y’all can help. My hair and skin can’t take much more of this hard water lol
Hi Tina, As a general suggestion, be sure you are using a hardness test kit (hardness strips or dropper tests work best) and not a TDS meter. A TDS meter won’t give you an accurate hardness number. If you purchased your system from us, though, please give us a call and we can try our best to troubleshoot with you over the phone! You can call us toll-free at 877-477-5452. Thanks, Aplus Water LLC
I noticed the brine tank had a opening on the bottom as well. Just to clarify, both the top and bottom covers go back on the brine tank correct? Seems like I did this all correctly and the video helped so thank you for that. I look forward to a response to my question.
Excellent video. Programmed my softener in a few minutes. Simply followed along. I don’t know who the idiots are that gave this a thumbs down. Thanks for posting this video.
I'm trying to avoid a plumber....can anybody elaborate on the drain tie-in? I'm running down a wall where a laundry and washer/dryer are...proper tie-in to the existing drain (s)?
You will have to build a p-trap with a y fitting on a drain clean out to get the proper air gap, or you could just stick the hose in with the washer hose but that's not code acceptable
@@spxlazy Interesting...i had a plumber in to look at the water heater and I was going to add on the drain. He said he just taps into the drain vent pipe in the attic. That made me nervous, but it kind of makes sense. It's not like it's going to flood up the vent pipe 15'... Alternatively, I could do as you talked and rebuild the laundry drain system...
@@kiva822 you dont rebuild the laundry drain, theres a clean out which is a cap, you remove the cap and a abs y-fitting and build the p trap off of that and place the cap on the other side of the y-fitting, either way I suggest using an air gap fitting if he taps in to the vent pipe just to keep you safe, if the system gets contaminated due to the sewer you and your family will get really sick due to all that nasty stuff, the air gap ensures you never get cross contamination, I've been doing water treatment for about 5 years, if you have any questions I'm more than willing to give you some more advice
The best tutorial on utube. Well don e friend, and thanks.
Very helpful video. Thank you!
Just a note: If your softener comes like mine, you will receive a right-angle drain barb. You'll want to install it before installing the bypass/yoke assembly onto the input valve that he's pointing to in the video at 6:08. You'll need to remove that input valve in order to be able to screw the right-angle drain barb into place. Without removing that valve, it's impossible to turn the barb to screw it in. Not a big deal, but better to know now than to have to backtrack a bit as I did.
I cannot stress enough the importance of watching this video multiple times, unless you install softeners for a living and do at least one every week as a plumbing professional. The video may not be as current as the latest shipping methods, some parts of the softener controller head may already be installled or assembled prior to your shipment. In my case there was no shipment bill of lading showing what parts I should have and the video is the only way to see if you have everything. No doubt at some point this video will be superseded by another making DIY install easier: and sending a link to your plumber can’t hurt either. My plumber should have watched it before arriving.
Thanks for the advice, just getting started with the install now!
We have ours all installed but still have very hard water. We are on well water but don’t have an iron problem. We add to the well water number you gave us and the water has not improved at all. I tested the inside and outside water and both read very hard 250 ppm. I sure hope y’all can help. My hair and skin can’t take much more of this hard water lol
Hi Tina,
As a general suggestion, be sure you are using a hardness test kit (hardness strips or dropper tests work best) and not a TDS meter. A TDS meter won’t give you an accurate hardness number.
If you purchased your system from us, though, please give us a call and we can try our best to troubleshoot with you over the phone! You can call us toll-free at 877-477-5452. Thanks, Aplus Water LLC
Thanks for the video. Made it a lot easier.
I noticed the brine tank had a opening on the bottom as well. Just to clarify, both the top and bottom covers go back on the brine tank correct? Seems like I did this all correctly and the video helped so thank you for that. I look forward to a response to my question.
Yes kids on both bottom and top, you should never have to remove the lids, dont allow salt in the brine well
Excellent video. Programmed my softener in a few minutes. Simply followed along. I don’t know who the idiots are that gave this a thumbs down. Thanks for posting this video.
How high should the float be? How much water should be in the tank or will it be a dry tank?
Does this system flush itself daily? If so, for how long of a time?
Where did you buy those flexible hoses?
I live in flordia on a well, can the unit be kept outside?
I'm trying to avoid a plumber....can anybody elaborate on the drain tie-in? I'm running down a wall where a laundry and washer/dryer are...proper tie-in to the existing drain (s)?
You will have to build a p-trap with a y fitting on a drain clean out to get the proper air gap, or you could just stick the hose in with the washer hose but that's not code acceptable
@@spxlazy Interesting...i had a plumber in to look at the water heater and I was going to add on the drain. He said he just taps into the drain vent pipe in the attic. That made me nervous, but it kind of makes sense. It's not like it's going to flood up the vent pipe 15'... Alternatively, I could do as you talked and rebuild the laundry drain system...
@@kiva822 you dont rebuild the laundry drain, theres a clean out which is a cap, you remove the cap and a abs y-fitting and build the p trap off of that and place the cap on the other side of the y-fitting, either way I suggest using an air gap fitting if he taps in to the vent pipe just to keep you safe, if the system gets contaminated due to the sewer you and your family will get really sick due to all that nasty stuff, the air gap ensures you never get cross contamination, I've been doing water treatment for about 5 years, if you have any questions I'm more than willing to give you some more advice