Hemera to Ender 3 - Complete guide
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 7 ม.ค. 2020
- The Hemera (formerly Hermes) is a new all in one extruder/stepper/hot end by E3d. I have had a lot of requests to make an install video for an Ender 3, so I present this complete guide.
There are many steps and I’m not sure it’s worth it on a smaller printer like this. Although the initial performance tests are good, I’m going to move these parts to something like the CR-10 Max. The Hemera in isolation is a beautifully engineered piece of kit and will thrive on a printer designed for it from the ground up.
More info on the engineering: e3d-online.com/blog/2019/11/2...
Thanks to all of those in the community who have designed parts for this kit.
Purchase the Hemera (please check voltage and filament diameter options):
E3D: e3d-online.com/e3d-hemera-175...
Amazon: amzn.to/2tGiyh8
Tiny Machines: bit.ly/39kSRCC
Phaser FPV (Aus): www.phaserfpv.com.au/collecti...
Brian Vanderbusch’s Github gist with tips for this install: gist.github.com/LongLiveCHIEF...
1:11 Overview of Hemera
2:49 Step 1: Assemble Hemera off printer
E3D guide for this: e3d-online.dozuki.com/Guide/0...
4:28 Step 2: Select and print mounting adaptor parts - these are the parts I selected for this video:
Remixed Hemera adaptor by Menissalt (parts A and B, also for BLtouch mount if needed): www.thingiverse.com/thing:406...
5015 blower fan duct by Hangtight (duct mount plate and duct parts): www.thingiverse.com/thing:404...
E3D hemera Mount and cooler by Tragical (4010 to 5015 adaptor part for stock parting cooling fan): www.thingiverse.com/thing:406...
Other parts not used:
E3D Hemera Thingiverse adaptor (A and B parts too thin, 4010 fan duct too low): www.thingiverse.com/thing:400...
Hemera mount to suit BLtouch and EZABL by Joe Casha (easy to fit, simple design but I found this wobbly): www.myminifactory.com/object/...
6:32 Step 3: Hemera physical install (to Ender 3/CR-10)
E3D guide that covers most but not all of this: e3d-online.dozuki.com/Guide/H...
10:06 Step 4: Wiring
Wires to remove diagram: imgur.com/a/EhaTAGP
Hemera wires to connect diagram: imgur.com/a/zfvyBsA
13:15 Step 5: Firmware
Ender 3 Bootloader video: • Ender 3: How to instal...
Ender 3 vanilla Marlin video: • Ender 3 vanilla Marlin...
Marlin firmware download: github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin
15:17 Step 6: Calibration
Pronterface download: www.pronterface.com/index.htm...
Set e-steps reference: marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M092.html
Set home offset reference: marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M206.html
PID autotune reference: marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M303.html
More detailed video on PID autotune: • Two easy fixes for 3D ...
E3D VREF setting: e3d-online.dozuki.com/Guide/0...
More detailed video on setting VREF for the Ender 3: • TMC2100 guide - Steppe...
More detailed video on E-steps calibration: • How to tune your slice...
20:15 Test prints
20mm calibration cube: www.thingiverse.com/thing:214260
Low poly fox: www.thingiverse.com/thing:937...
Buy quality and affordable filament from X3D. Buy 3, get 1 free and a free sample pack with every order: www.x3d.com.au
Take a look around and if you like what you see, please subscribe.
Support me on Patreon: / teachingtech
Hi, I'm the designer of the part cooling duct you used. I just wanted to point out that you should position the heater block pointing towards the rear of the printer to hugely improve the clearance between the duct outlets and the heater block.
The duct is designed for the flow characteristics of a 5015 blower. It won't be anywhere near as effective with the rather feeble stock 4010 blower.
The best way to gain back the lost Y travel is to drill and tap new holes in the Y rail so you can move the entire Y assembly forward.
Keep up the good work!
or you can forget the holes and instead use 2 tnuts? thanx 4 the design btw!!
@@ZILLION4EVER what size should be the tnuts?
@@ZILLION4EVER The printers I've seen that go that route also use plates on the side to reinforce it. I'd probably add some of those if I was doing it that way.
He has a 5015 fan now I think.
Thanks Michael, you're slowly making me into a knowledgeable user of 3d printers. I was waiting on this one.
ive been waiting for this guide to drop so i can finally pull the trigger on the hemera
Excellent guide! For the Ender 3 Pro 1.5 with 4.2.2 Board, I found two things that I had to do slightly differently:
1. Apparently the A4988 drivers on the 4.2.2 board have .1 ohm Rsense instead of .05 ohm and so I had to adjust the Vref for my extruder to .9576 volts (that includes a 10% safety buffer below the 1.33A max current of the Hemera stepper motor).
2. The wires had to be moved around a bit, not just switching the middle two, like they suggest in their guide. Best advice is to plug your original extruder wire into the board and Hemera and trace the wires to verify which ones need to go from which pin on the board to which pin on the stepper. For me, from back to front on the stepper, it ended up being black > (empty) > blue > green > (empty)> red.
Great video Michael.
I have just picked up my first 3d printer, a modded non working example that has a disassembled hermes hot end installed.
Your video has shown me how to put it back together with confidence, cheers!
Excellent presentation at a good pace and very clearly communicated - you could do this for a living for companies wanting to create assembly and service videos!
I put one on my cr10s pro and i love it. I used 3DMN's mount plate and i've found that the slight give you mentioned does not matter that much. I love the speed though, chewing through tpu like there is no tomorrow.
I swear about 2 hours ago I was hoping you would do a video on this, thank you so much man
I put my hemera on my ender 3 a week ago or so.. Then caught the flu and never finished it.. So at least now I can double check what I've done so far with this video. Thanks for making amazing tutorials as always.
Love the guide thank you!. My hemera arrives tomorrow!
Hello Michael, Thank you for the detailed video. I am looking to do this to my Ender 3...
It is on my wish list!
I hope your family and you are safe with all those fires over Australia. Be safe!
Awesome video. I’ve had the Hemera on for exactly 1 month now and was loving it. Recently this week I’ve been having tons of trouble with noise coming from retractions. Besides that it’s a fantastic work of art.
how you resolved the noise ?
I installed the Hemera on the Ender3v2 and had to make 1 minor change. The extruder stepper motor wiring had to be BLACK | GREEN | BLUE | RED instead of BLACK | BLUE | GREEN | RED. The diagram shown in the video resulted in the extruder stepper not rotating at all. Going BLACK | GREEN | BLUE | RED (swapping the inner wires) resulted in the stepper rotating backwards. Swapping either of the pair of wires (BLACK / GREEN or RED / BLUE) should fix the inverted rotation. Or you can change through Marlin too.
Great guide, thanks!!! Perfectly explained!
I have one fitted on the Ender 5. Designed a one plate design that works perfectly.
Only one thing i can't get rid of is the z seam (using cura) altough it's directdrive and really good performing.
amazingly clear tutorial ! great job. convinced me to give it a try on my "never-been-doing-well" CR10. thanks
How did that turn out?
@@byfunkyoid2917: it turned out that I had the opportunity of changing my hot end for an E3d V6 (after problems with a Kossel). I tested and built a custom support and fan duct (with lightness in mind) and now it's running flawlessly with a 0,6 nozzle on 0,4 layer height (with PETG). but I surely will move to hemera someday as, for having fantastic and solid results with my Prusa, I'm convinced that direct drive is a must in all conditions and allows much precise tune of printing profiles
I just installed one on my CR-10S. I bolted it to a linear rail and it was quite the project coming up with all the pieces to make it work. In the end, I modified a bunch of things from thingiverse meant for other printers to work on mine and it is working GREAT. I will however continue to iterate and improve on each piece I printed as none of them are perfect. But boy oh boy does this hot end print smoothly on a linear rail!
E3D needs to make a kit with the proper mounting plate so this is easy if they expect to sell this for use on the ender3
I fully agree on that! Mounting a hotend with 3D printed parts that are not flame-retardant treated that's so stupid IMO. A real fire hazard.
www.thingiverse.com/thing:4076960 This will let you modify a four wheel x-axis gantry plate to mount directly to the Hemera. It it pretty easy to do with a drill bit set and good drill. I used a cut-off wheel with a router to cut off the stock hotend mounting points, then attached the guide, used some cutting oil, and drilled holes for the Hemera. The extra wheel helps with the added weight of the hemera. You can loosen the eccentric nuts without introducing slop.
Used this as a reference for installing on my Ender 5 with the silent mainboard. Key differences:
1.) vref calculation for 2208s
1.3A stepper motor on the hemera
1.3/1.41 = .942 (root mean square)
(.943 * 2.5) / 1.77 = 1.33 (max vref)
1.33 * .9 = 1.19 (final vref with safety margin)
2.) wiring colors on the stepper motor didn't match your unit, I ended up referencing the stock cable to determine placement, [e] denotes where the extruder marker is on the cable
for my ender 5, this was the pin closest to the middle of the board and ends up being the right-most pin when viewing the hemera from the side with the stepper motor. The two middle pins swap positions between the board and the motor.
Mainboard
______________________
| | 4 3 2 1 | |
| |
______________________
Stepper
_______| 1 3 2 4 |_______
| O O |
| Logo |
| |
| QRC |
| O O |
--------------------------------------
MB Stepper Motor
1 => 1 left (blue)
2 => 3 middle right (red)
3 => 2 middle left (green)
4 [e] => 4 right (black)
Thanks for this, my hemera is sitting in a box waiting for me to find out if I could use this guide.
Thanks man this helped me understand that for my setup (CR10-S PRO V2) is needed to switch 3 cables
We have the same issues with our 3D printer (Dutchy3D) with regards to the mounting and the fan assembly. We are experimenting with putting a 4010 fan underneath the stepper motor blowing directly into a duct that goes all the way around the nozzle. This is a lot tidier but also not ideal since the blower potentially sucks air that passed the heated bed. We do hope that the improved airflow (no bents in the duct) will compansate for this.
Wow. Thats quite a lot of printers u got there. Nice video, very informative.
happy new year to you!
Exactly what I needed, Mah Man!
Fully agree, custom metal carriage is needed.
They will get CNC at work soon so I might be able to design and make something.
Great video michael, very interesting
i was glad to see you made a guide for this. my only change is to make the back plate from metal to keep in thin so i don't lose travel on the y axis. also i don't use cooling fans so that will keep it small and tidy. tyvm micheal, great job.
sorry to be so late but they've been selling an Ender 3 backplate in aluminium for a long time on Banggood actually
Apparently, at the literal last minute a "international company" contacted E3D and said "We would REALLY like you to not call this Hermes." and E3D said, "K, but we got all these boxes and prototypes that say Hermes--we are gonna use them up, but going forward we will change the branding." and the International Company said "K. Thx."
And thus, the Hemera is now the thing.
Alexander Borsi is that “international company” being Stratasys? The company that commercialised FDM, and really like to make lots money out of patents
@@kerbodynamicx472 no it's the handbag company Hermes
@@mrb2917 There are at least five huge international corporations using the name Hermes; at bare minimum the fashion company you're referring to distinguishes itself with an accent in the name that should really make this inapplicable. It seems likely, but I also would not be surprised if it was the goddamn investment bank.
Heatsink fins seem very similar to the Buccaneer 3D printer amazing it took so long to make a come back.
I have been so often taking this thing apart and fiddle with it, I think its going to make sense to print a little cover for the cutout in the aluminium to not need the cloth tape anymore, it already looks like crap in my case...
Literally got my Hemera fitted a few hours ago. Just have to heat tighten and then calibrate it which is bound to go a lot smoother now!
How much did you buy the Hemera kit for? Can't find the kit on E3D
what is your experience ?
Sounds like its not a great idea for an Ender 3. Thanks for posting this. Saved me quite a bit of cash.
Really enjoying my Hemera. Printing on my BLV MGN Cube at 100mm/s with crazy high accl and jerk settings, flawless prints time after time. Highly recommended.
Some should mount the BL on top of the print head and glue an extending rod to the probe, that way you could mount it quite close to the print nozzle.
Thanks a ton for doing this, I have a Hemera on order for my printer and this will come in super handy when I get to replacing my hot end...;)
Good video...I agree with your comment, wishing there were some better solutions for the Hemera to mount up to a CR-10S/CR-10/Tevo Tornado with part cooling/Bl Touch/EZABL support. There's a few out there, but I haven't found one that nails all three requirements in one!
I have one, on my custom CoreXY - LOVE it. Am hearing more and more people having issues with it. I personally haven't had a single problem. Am running a 0.8 MicroSwiss coated nozzle which may help? Also, found the stock fan SUPER LOUD! I replaced with a double thick (40x40x20 instead of 40x40x10) Noctura and it made a world of difference with out lowering air flow. I have a quick "1st impressions after a week" video on my channel.
Fan is definitely louder, I agree. Glad you are enjoying your install.
I found a discrepancy with the wiring diagram provided. It seems that for my Hemera, the "thick" red/black cable is actually to the hot end thermistor and the "thin" red/black cable is to the hot end fan. Maybe E3D has switched the type of wires they use but I thought this might help people out. I spent hours trying to figure out what was wrong. My fault! A good reminder to always double check that the cable matches the component, even when referencing a wiring diagram.
Anyway, I really appreciate this video and all your others. Super helpful!
I have been working on an install of a Hermes for the past week or so. You pointed out a couple things I've missed so that is great. My first layer is an over extruded mess but I am getting my set first layer thickness (.3mm) and 100mm through the printer when sent (393 was my steps number, 1 off of yours.) I need to dig into 32bit Marlin and find the thermo couple type number.
Haven't fitted a thermocouple so can't help you with that. Good luck!
You have saved me a ton of work. The only issue I have is cable management.. how do you run the cables from the right side to the left?
Excellent!
Great guide and you made PID tuning two steps easier than Joe did! Auto save and No going for Tea! Joe I still love ya!
Ronny Julian I believe the “going to tea” part still exist in this one... the number of cycles will define how long the PID will take. This one was made in 8 cycles... the Joe one was 10 cycles... if you do more it can be more precise but both values works great 😊
I do usually start the process and disappear for a bit. A watched kettle never boils.
The X max and bed size also need to be adjusted or you'll run into issues. I found it to be 220 for both size and max position.
Hi everyone, getting a few comments about moving the y endstop to not lose print volume. Unfortunately it's not that simple. You can move the endstop ~26mm forward and this will fix the home position, but when the bed is right at the front of the machine, the nozzle still won't reach the rear ~20mm of the bed.
You can move the entire Y assembly forward by 20mm by using one of the existing threaded holes in the underside of the Y carriage rail, and using the other to mask the position to drill and tap an additional hole.
Using the 4 wheel carriage solves all of this and gives you the full Y volume of the bed. Only issue is the wheel of the carriage strikes the bed heater wiring but that is easily corrected with a printed mod. I agree woth you, the printed mounting solutions for the Hemera are not great options for the Ender 3.
Hi, this can only be caused by the mount you've chosen, because the with the one from Joe Casha, theres no reason for that to happen. The one you used as a second piece that simple doesnt make sence to me!
As I said in the video, the Joe Casha mount is simple, elegant, easy to print but not as secure. I really wanted to stick with it but the wiggle was too much unfortunately.
@@jamestongue6056 This is what i did after installing a titan aero on my ender 3 pro, couldn't be easier.
"when it's printed to a fitter"
:P
Thanks. I have an Ender 3 now I’m going to pass on the hemera upgrade as you suggest that you would loose print volume.
Awesome video! I can’t wait to get a Hemera for my CR-10S. Unfortunately I’m going to have to be patient as they are out of stock probably due to the pandemic. I might end up going with the Micro Swiss Direct Drive Extruder combo and flash Marlin over to get my feet wet since this is my first 3D printer.
(I’m a CAD designer utilizing it to 3D print automotive prototype designs.)
Nice straightforward video mate. I’ve got mine to fit, using different mounting parts though, somewhat smaller rear brace than yours. I’ve also got an skr dip and bltouch, if you’re interested I’ll report back when I fit it in the next few days.
pukington please do report on which parts you used to mount the Hermera
@@Gadget_Angel Sure mate. I'll bung it all together and test it and reply with what I use when successful. Give me a couple of days.
pukington looking forward to see what you do, thanks for the effort and time
I think the only reason i would get one of these is because of your review. I have and ender 5 and like to tinker but i would have to hear it from you if it would be worth the trouble.
Amazon price as of January 25 2024 is $214. Very, very hard for me to justify on my Ender 3 ! What is the recommendation for a DD upgrade to Ender 3's that makes more sense today ?
Alot I've read are bogus and all kinds of problems- not real dual gear "upgrade" (Creality), poor quality (gears flaking off metal, etc.), reports the DD upgrade didn't improve anything, etc.- makes it very hard to figure out what's worth it.
Any chance to get a review on the Nimble or some similar remote extruder?
Got my Hemera installed on my Ender 3 Pro around a week ago and it is insane how much my quality AND reliability has increased. In my opinion it is a little bit "louder" than my originial Ender 3 Hotend with 5015 fan but i guess it's because the fan included with the kit ist louder but also stronger.
I used the General Ender 3 Hemera mount with BlTouch from Joe Casha (5:12)
And the duct from Hangtight.
everything fits really nice and is sturdy.
Other modifications i also did to my Ender 3 Pro are:
Bigtreetech SKR 1.3
TMC2208 Stepper Drivers
BlTouch
E3D Hemera
DonnerPlays Nice! Thanks for share it. What abou the “Y”... did you make some mod or you also lose area on this?
@@Flagazz weirdly compared to Teaching Tech i lost ZERO area. the nozzle can still reach everything on the Bed. So i still have the 235x235 Print area.
Maybe because Teaching tech used the mount without bed level sensor and the one with sensor is offset enouth so you can access everything.
DonnerPlays Nice! Which mount did you print? I believe the Y axis can be drilled to go further if needed...
@@Flagazz I used the bltouch mount from myminifactory made by joe casha which you can see in the video at 5:12
DonnerPlays aah ok, the same one... made by Joe 3D Maker Noob... got it!
Thanks! He also made the one for Artillery X1... I just receive this printer today and I will start to assembly in a couple of hours :)
My neighbohood will use Hemera in his Ender.
I don’t know yet which printer I will install mine but I will probably adapt to my old Ultimaker2 or maybe in my Ender 3... let’s see...
Hi Michael,
thanks for your great Videos.
Ist the wiring color code of the stepper the same for the SKR mini V2?
Thanks in advance.
Great video - the Hemera really steps up the game for 3D printers in our space. IMHO, it's overkill for the Ender 3 which prints phenomenally well stock. I think the priority upgrade is a silent stepper main board. I agree that Hemera is a great upgrade for larger printers where print speed matters a lot more especially when printing especially large objects and/or with flexible filament. A volcano heat block is a must as well. I would not add the Hemera to anything smaller than a CR-10. Interested to see how Hemera fares in your larger Creality printer.
Volcano just arrived ready for this.
Yeeeeah, I ended up with one of the Ender Pro 1.5 versions, and every mod I've done has been a pain because almost nothing will go exactly the way it's supposed to 🤣 I installed a Hemera on mine and it was enough of a hassle to set up that I am just holding on to it to put on some future project, it's just too large for the bed size and I'm sure I can make better use of it elsewhere. Debating putting the 1.5 back to stock, we will see.
How do I fit Revo™ Hemera XS to a anycubic Kobra neo printer and what code do I change also I use a different version of firmware would this stay the same?
The hemera may be a little costly for an ender 3 , but besides the mainboard the best upgrade you can make
I used joe's, but its SUPER wobbly, and that BL touch needs more support. Likely will try to make my own eventually.
I'd like one for my Prusa i3 MK3S/MMU2s. Might fix some of the mmu2s woes.
any chance you can do a similar for the Ender 5 Pro - silent unit. thx.
Hi, thank you for the very great report. I put the Hemera to my Geeetech A10 and now I has problems with the stepper motor. My board is a GT2560 V3 and the orign stepperdriver and I put it to recommended setting. But now the problem is, the motor is only shaking leftright and not moving normal. I put the Vref to 0,8V but it was not helping. E3D recommend to turn the 2 middle wires but then the motor is no more shaking/moving. Any idea what is wrong?
I'd love to see you install it on your Seckit SK-Go. I think that would make a great printer even that much better.
I thin it's a bit bulky compared to what I have now. That is getting a G5 Flex drive.
would you recommend the Hemera or the zesty nimble? maybe pros and cons of each?
My Hemera arrives on Monday! Can't wait. Installing it onto an ender 3 v2. Can anyone point me in the direction of a good install video?
Please keep in mind that you will have to change the Vref and double the total to about 9.5 with the 10% reduction, e3d added a note that Creality printers don't use.05 ohms, but they use .1. I had clicking because of the extruder being set to the wrong voltage.
Love it if you did a full guide to the Sidewinder X1 also.
Sidewinder has a nice setup stock. The stepper is a proper pancake with a titan clone and is really well packaged.
What other upgrades do you recommend to the E3 along with the Hemera? I run a print shop that does a lot of TPU and I am considering converting my fleet over to E3 with Hemera and maybe a board upgrade
I ended up going with the single mount without the BLTouch support. I also choose to go with the side mounted fan for the Tevo Tornado.
Ender 3 with Hermera - imgur.com/omVqlzg
Mount - www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-ender-3-e3d-hemera-mount-105802
Fan - www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-e3d-hemera-mount-for-tevo-tarantula-pro-106054
You're right that this rig takes up too much space on the gantry. I'm waiting on my Ender Extender 400 to come in the mail to put together my 2nd E3. I would imagine this setup would be fine on a buildplate that size. But for stock E3...man, overkill.
Editing as I watch...
Hangtight has been very busy making mounts and ducts the last several months. All his designs are flow optimised using software simulators.
With the silicone sock installed you shouldn't have issues printing PLA w/ a PLA duct. I haven't tried PETG yet, but 8mon and no sag on the duct.
How does the wrap compare to the weave from a flexibility standpoint?
940? That's a beefy motor for a reduction drive. I actually turned the current down by 100 for the pancake that came w/ my titan clone as it was too hot.
Moving the Y endstop would be preferable to losing 20mm of build area. It's only held by 2 screws and will slide easily on the Y extrusion.
940 is in the middle of the range from the specs given by E3D in their docs. I agree it seems too high. Moving the y endstop fixes the homed position but the nozzle will still not reach the back 20mm of the bed.
Hi Michael, could you show the right way to connect the hemera stepper on the SKR 1.3 board? Thanks!
Hey Michael, as a heads up, I print things but have not made it to the point where I can design things. I got the idea of upgrading my Ender 5 by installing the exoslide and have also purchased the hermera. While the Exoslide team has created the mounting plate and a cooling duct for the Exoslide, no one has created an EZABL mount. Would you consider doing a guide for the Ender 5 with Exoslide and Hermera with the EZABL and design a mount for it? I wish I was able to draw things up like so many people do, just not there yet.
Grerat video! I'm doing this on the Cr10s-PRO BUT with a Volcano hotend. is there a firmware change I need to do that what you do for the v6? cheers!!!
Michael, Any chance you can swop that Hemera onto your Ender 5, and confirm parts bolts etc required.
do you have a basic E3D V6 Bowden and E3D V6 Direct Drive with a Titan video, in 2 minds which to buy, both not exactly cheap.
pretty sure this will make a day/night difference to my printer.
you should pass the cables for extruder in the front of the machine if you use all the hight of the printer you will crush the X to the cable!
same esteps as a BMG...415.37 for running drivers at standard 1/16 steps and 940ma with TMC2208 in UART...
Can you compare this to a zesty nimble please
That's a lot of work, thanks for posting. Do you think the CR-10s Pro would loose any bed volume if I installed one of these? That would be bit of a deal breaker for me also.
you will always loose some volume as the cr10 series uses the same carriage style and the stepper motor is moonted on it, so you loose +- half thikness off the stepper ;)
3d print general channel was testing this with TPU (ninjaflex) and it was getting jammed, only way to fix a jam on this is to take the whole thing apart.
It's easy to get into the internals* (*only after you've pulled the whole assembly off your mount).
Thank you so much for the tutorial! Would this work on a CR-10S as well?
yes but the wiring is a little different ... but the mounting is exactly the same
Great video, but i have question, how do i export all that changes to .bin file for my printer? When i will upload whole fille , which i downloaded from site, my printer is not able to rewrite itself. Thanks for meaningful answers.
Okey, Trianglelabs lets go !
Can you do a video on installing the Humira on the MK three yes please thank you but a detailed video of how you do it step-by-step I know that there is a guide out there but being visually impaired it would help me tremendously thank you so very much I am such a great fan and you’re such a great inspiration
Prusa mk3s
Hi JC, I already spent good money putting on the Bondtech upgade extruder for my MK3, so sorry I won't be taking that off.
They had some mishap with legal issues with the name Hermes. Boxes, engraving etc all ordered prior to the unfortunate events, that made them rebrand it as the Hemera.
Now, just need one for the Artillery SIdewinder X1... :)
Hey Michael! Thank you so much for making this video. Awesome job! I would like todo this upgrade but I have a question about the firmware side of it. I recently installed a TH3D EZBoard Lite in my Ender 3 Pro, along with a EZABL Pro. Using there ezfirmware website. I’m not completely comfortable with the firmware side of things but I’m getting there. Do you know if it’s possible to make all of these firmware adjustments on the ezfirmware website?
At this stage I don't think so, but it's only the thermistor change not currently supported. It would be relatively easy for TH3D to add this so why not send them an email?
Teaching Tech thank you for the advise and please keep the videos coming!
@@TeachingTech Hello, thanks for the video! I sent TH3d an email about this and just received a response with a link to their firmware page. Had to go back to the standard Marlin firmware. Kinda sad - I liked the TH3D firmware...
Hello ! with the SKR mini E3 card Can we configure the Hemera? Thank you
can you do a install of the hermera xs on a kobra max?
the touch off sensor, since it uses the nozzle for heights and not a probe is a little out of my expertise. if I use the sensor mounted to the frame / plate, do I need to use any extra wires , say the the spring? or the stepper body for connection?
any way, I know this is a shot in the dark, but I cannot find any info about the sensor and how it works online, and anycubic is terrible for advice on MODS.
I like it but, there;s just to much faffing around to fit it. I have E3D v6 on my CR-10 Frankenstein. Works great . I don't think I'll bother with this mod though. How much weight did it add the the set up ? I was looking at the Tronxy x5sa where I think this sort of set up would be better used.
Putting this thing on an ender 3 is pretty silly, I agree. It would make more sense on a printer where it's compact size could help, like maybe a coreXY, so you don't have so much vertical height to your print head. Or, maybe something made to print large stuff with a volcano heat block.
I was confused wiring this up. In your diagram you say the thicker red/black one goes to the fan, but when you do the actually wiring the thicker one is the thermistor . Just a heads up if anyone has this same issue.
Why not just loosen up the beam the build platform moves on and slide the whole assembly forward 26mm? That would solve the "lost build volume" issue....
I have upgraded my Ender 3 with Klipper, mainly to print at 150-200mm/s for quicker prototype. (and to be honest, pressure advance with 0.5 knock off nozzle and bowden setup are not really going together). Since then, the skipping extruder has annoyed me a lot (stringging and budging sharp corner, too). I'm considering changing into Hemera in order to achieve stable extrusion quality with Klipper's pressure advance really working.
Do you think that a Direct Drive setup with Hemera hotend and Klipper printing as *really* high speed will work?
Where do you have the 940 for the current from?
In the official paper it says:
Step 7 TMC 2100, 2208, 2130, 2209 (Standalone)
TMC 2100 calculation:
VREF= (RMS current x 2.5) / 1.77
VREF = (0.94 x 2.5) / 1.77
VREF = 2.35 / 1.77
VREF = 1.33
It is advised to add a 10% safety margin to avoid any over heating, decreasing the lifespan of the driver.
1.33 - 0.133 = 1.197
VREF = 1.197
Can you make some test with this extruder and Klipper firmware please? I think this will be an incredible team!!!!
I was really hyped about this video as I just got a ender 3pro and intend to use it for a decent amount of TPU and wanted a high quality Direct drive setup. but I lost interest after seeing the quality of the mounting solutions. for this price point there should be factory metal CNC brackets if not included, than at least available for a extra fee for popular printers.
So true! It would cost bugger all for the company to have 300 sets of mounting plate/s laser cut then add a couple of bucks to the price.
I'm with you on that. I was ready to pull the trigger but after watching some installation videos I was like what?!? 90 Pounds (150 CAD) for a hotend that will be mounted with 3D printed parts?!? Those guys are so dumb marketing wise! Mounting a hotend with 3D printed parts that are not flame-retardant treated that's so stupid IMO. A real fire hazard.
I wish it would have been included as well, although I didn't struggle with the printed backplate as much as Michael. I can see from E3D's side of things why it's not included... each printing platform is going to have a different back plate, and even there would need to be multiple versions for each platform for various bed-leveling sensors. I think it's why they worked with some popular TH-camrs to design some mounts for popular printers prior to release.
@@BrianVanderbusch No they don't have to come up with a mounting plate for each and every printers out there. But only for the bulk of your targetted customers. Ender 3 and 5 is a good start. Someone has to come up with an alu or steel mounting solution for the Hemera otherwise the Hemera is just another one of those great ideas that end up unfinished products rushed to market that we won't talk about in six months.
@@mikem8145 and by doing so, they'd alienate customers who aren't on one of the platforms they provided. The market is saturated, and there isn't really a "bulk target". There are at least a dozen popular 200 x 200 platforms. Another dozen or so large volume platforms, and more and more popular DIY platforms hitting the market every day, which is a big segment for high end mods.
Adding design time that they have to pay their engineers for would increase the overall cost of the extruder, even for base kits that could be sold *without* a plate, and would also make them highly susceptible to being too deeply undercut by knockoffs that would cater to DIY'ers who don't want to pay for that extra cost for R&D of all those platforms that is imparted into the base price of the extruder.
There is opportunity cost in every business decision. If you think about it without bias or assumptions (thinking Ender 3/5 is their bulk targeted customers for example), then it makes total sense why this wasn't something they offered with this kit.
Is it possible to get some help with programming from someone? I have I think the most expensive ender 3 that doesnt function...
So i have the 1.1.5 board do i use same steps? I was told it already has a bootloader so now what?
I ordered this Hemera but it did not come with a heat break. Can I use the one that is on the hot end that came with the Ender 3?
Another fantastic video guide michael👌 While I have your attention can I ask you a brief question-Is there any point putting marlin 2.0 on my ender 3??? It seems to be doing everything I need it to do with 1.6 on (i bought the original 1.1.4 silent board When it was released early last year but only recently fitted it). If I ask "print nerds" They will all tell me it needs to be done for no other valid reason then it is the latest version that the machine will take-I am not one of these people who is hot on upgrading my machine, I am a mechanical engineer and my machine is essentially a tool that are used to support my RC plane hobby,So I only believe in doing ESSENTIAL updates to the machine (I did the board because it did away with salmon skinning etc and added the thermal runaway protection). As a rule this machine works really well and I get absolutely fantastic results as I have my slicer tuned perfect, but I have been wondering if it is really necessary to upgrade to the latest version of Marlin that the board can handle. When I changed the board I noticed the new one no longer allowed me to play tunes using M 300 In my ending script, so I have been contemplating flashing a bootloader and seeing what has changed in the firmware-which brings me to the question of is it worth changing the version, or should I just "not fix what is not broken"
Remember I am not a hard-core printing nerd, my printer is merely a tool to do a job in my eyes the same as a CNC machining centre or a screwdriver. Thanks in advance for your time answering my question👍
I would say if you have thermal runaway in place and you are happy with your current results then don't fix it if it ain't broke.
Quick question. I was under the impression the cr10s pro and alike didnt support (cartridge style) thermistors; is that just not actually an issue now or was it just not an issue because of the TinyMachines marlin firmware modification that it was fine? any info is much appreciated, cant seem too find much online.
I was wondering how you check and adjust the VREF for the SKR Mini E3 v1.2 It doesn't seem like it uses a similar method and I'd prefer not burning out the motor.
All done by gcode: marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M906.html
I would say the value of 940 given by E3D is too high.