Now THAT is funny! I've done the same thing with highly technical job things, referring to previous notes to make sure there weren't any brain-farts along the way.
Thanks for this quick video. It's exactly what I needed. I strongly advise you to use a traditional screwdriver while working inside the valve cover. If a driver bit falls inside it could be a HEAP of work to get it out.
The T comes around, but it may NOT be TDC - being a four stroke. When you align the T, wiggle all the tappets. At true TDC all of them should have some play in them (assuming they are not too tight!!). I ended up getting some handles for my feeler gauges - mainly for the Griso, but they work great for the XR too. Simply easier to handle while sliding the feeler gauge around.
Make sure you verify that its tdc, as you can be 180° out and your valves will be tight with it showing |T on the sight hole. I took spark plug out and used thin stiff wire to double verify the piston was all way up.
I miss living out there and your videos bring back tons of memories for me. They're an escape for me vicariously through you. If you ever get bored, shoot a vid starting at Bartlett marina and go below the dam. The trail will follow along the river and eventually bring you out in Fountain hills. Nice little cruise
I am considering getting an XR650 for my forever bike, exploring literally everywhere on this sphere. The super-easy valve adjustment procedure is a huge bonus compared to shim and bucket style thumpers. The CV carb is also familiar thanks to my years on an R100GS. I am going to go look at your other videos and see if there are any downsides to this bike aside from the extra weight and the perceived antiquated design.
The "antiquated" design is actually what makes these so good in my experience. The basic maintinence is easy, and if kept maintained they run forever. The only real drawback is most people who buy them new end up modifying the carb. It is considered to be lean from the factory, though I have never ridden a stock one.
Thank you for this! I'm probably going to have to have to do my valves soon over winter most likely just ticked 7,000 miles. Keep it up man love this stuff!!
I always dreaded doing this on my DR650. I never quite felt like I was using my feeler gauges properly. I'd think "yeah, that's a nice amount of drag on the feeler," then switch it out for one five sizes out of spec, and it still felt okay. It felt like carb adjustments to me: some black magic required.
Lol I spent last night watching TH-cam videos on this and did mine on my FX 650 this morning don't forget top dead centre should be on the compression stroke great video
I have never gotten a good adjustment using the shims. Also when you tighten the value nut it sometimes moves slightly. Then you are either to tight or to loose. What I do to check the TDC because its only every other cycle is simply use a flash light to see all the cam shaft bumps are facing down. Then to get a good adjustment I tighten down the valve bolts so when once tight you can only feel and hear a very slight click, like super small click/movement. Has worked for me, the shim has always caused issues, mostly to loose and ticks pretty bad once I start it up.
Great tutorial you say ? How did I miss the part when he said "TDC on COMPRESSION stroke" ? Anyone doing by this "tutorial" will have 50/50 chance of failing the whole procedure.
It may just be me but I never set out to adjust my valves, I go out to my garage and check them. Then adjust if necessary. It always seems a lot of videos I’ve seen on the topic everyone looses the nut before they ever check it with the feeler and then you have no idea if they were even out to begin with, how much they were out, don’t know if they were out of spec tight, out of spec loose, if just one was out. Just my .02 but I don’t think anyone should decide to “adjust” their valves. Should just have checking them in mind then go from there. 🤷🏼♂️ you may have checked them prior and edited it out. But to someone watching I feel like they wouldn’t think to check first if they were new to doing their own maintenance.
Great video to follow not all that fancy smancy talking just the basic simple pick up a few tools I can do this job on my own project. Thanks man, at over 18,000 miles on my XR650L you can imagine the ticking this baby's in. Glad I found your video, any tips on why a bike would have a hard time starting after stopping every so often? Not all the time time but lately it has been on go stop stop runs in town
@@FridaysTheBomb usually after a ride, to and from place I'm going to. In the mornings or when its been sitting for a long time it'll be ok and fire right up. But recently its these go stop go stop runs that have been plaguing me. I just change my spark plug yesterday so we see what happens in the coming days
@@FridaysTheBomb I mentioned it to a friend he owns a motorcycle shop and he said it sounds like it could be my valves. I adjusted to the best of my knowledge and it ran pretty good, started right up even responding better now. But every now and then it still would not start mostly when the engine get to temperature. My plugs are clean, but I noticed when I check exhaust it was tight. I could barely get the feeler gauge to slide between but when I asked my mechanic for the specs he said intake 6 exhaust 8. I adjusted intake tighten a little maybe can do more but exhaust I wasn't sure how should be , when I explained to mechanic he said leave it alone but feeler gauge to me had a hard time sliding. I think I should go back in there and free up the exhaust slightly and tighten down my intake again? By the way 6 and 8 would be read as 0.006mm intake and 0.008 exhaust on the feeler gauge this is according to the clearance set for this cam. Please give me your thoughts and comments, I feel comfortable enough that I have the experience to tackle the job again with your advise and expertise.
>be me >auto class >working on briggs and stratton small engine >dissasembled >cleaned >put the crank and piston back in, aswell as rod bearings and valve assembly >go to put camshaft in >goes well >rotate crank to see if it is smooth >realized the valve pushes are missing >look in components box >no valve pushers >fudge >mfw we are going to have an engine thats completely out of time
Idk if you’ve heard of chilledcow but I think you’ll like the mix they bring to their live stream check it out maybe you’ll find some new songs to plug in
@@fj4293 I've always been taught to do it with the engine cold because that is where the tolerences are the largest. Metal expands with heat and the heated metal will also fluctuate in size due to the temperature cooling off. So, there is a few reasons why I do it cold, also I've not done a ton of valve adjustments but I have done them.
You didn’t have to drain your oil do this right? First time I did this on my XL600r was during an oil change so just trying to see if it’s needed or not thanks
I just watched my own video to refresh my memory on how to do this lol
Now THAT is funny! I've done the same thing with highly technical job things, referring to previous notes to make sure there weren't any brain-farts along the way.
Thanks for this quick video. It's exactly what I needed.
I strongly advise you to use a traditional screwdriver while working inside the valve cover.
If a driver bit falls inside it could be a HEAP of work to get it out.
The T comes around, but it may NOT be TDC - being a four stroke. When you align the T, wiggle all the tappets. At true TDC all of them should have some play in them (assuming they are not too tight!!). I ended up getting some handles for my feeler gauges - mainly for the Griso, but they work great for the XR too. Simply easier to handle while sliding the feeler gauge around.
I like that you leave mistakes in and acknowledge them .. nice videos dude !!
Make sure you verify that its tdc, as you can be 180° out and your valves will be tight with it showing |T on the sight hole. I took spark plug out and used thin stiff wire to double verify the piston was all way up.
I miss living out there and your videos bring back tons of memories for me. They're an escape for me vicariously through you. If you ever get bored, shoot a vid starting at Bartlett marina and go below the dam. The trail will follow along the river and eventually bring you out in Fountain hills. Nice little cruise
What area?
@@patricklions9066, I lived in Glendale. Every Friday I would leave town for the mountains and come back Sunday.
I am considering getting an XR650 for my forever bike, exploring literally everywhere on this sphere. The super-easy valve adjustment procedure is a huge bonus compared to shim and bucket style thumpers. The CV carb is also familiar thanks to my years on an R100GS. I am going to go look at your other videos and see if there are any downsides to this bike aside from the extra weight and the perceived antiquated design.
The "antiquated" design is actually what makes these so good in my experience. The basic maintinence is easy, and if kept maintained they run forever. The only real drawback is most people who buy them new end up modifying the carb. It is considered to be lean from the factory, though I have never ridden a stock one.
Thank you for this! I'm probably going to have to have to do my valves soon over winter most likely just ticked 7,000 miles. Keep it up man love this stuff!!
Did you ever do them ????
I always dreaded doing this on my DR650. I never quite felt like I was using my feeler gauges properly. I'd think "yeah, that's a nice amount of drag on the feeler," then switch it out for one five sizes out of spec, and it still felt okay. It felt like carb adjustments to me: some black magic required.
Lol I spent last night watching TH-cam videos on this and did mine on my FX 650 this morning don't forget top dead centre should be on the compression stroke great video
I have never gotten a good adjustment using the shims. Also when you tighten the value nut it sometimes moves slightly. Then you are either to tight or to loose. What I do to check the TDC because its only every other cycle is simply use a flash light to see all the cam shaft bumps are facing down. Then to get a good adjustment I tighten down the valve bolts so when once tight you can only feel and hear a very slight click, like super small click/movement. Has worked for me, the shim has always caused issues, mostly to loose and ticks pretty bad once I start it up.
Great tutorial, I'd say your estimate of drag is about perfect. Been building engines for 20 years👍🏻
Great tutorial you say ? How did I miss the part when he said "TDC on COMPRESSION stroke" ? Anyone doing by this "tutorial" will have 50/50 chance of failing the whole procedure.
@@OffRoadRiderMan What you mean, can you be more precise and explain?
What is the proper drag?
It may just be me but I never set out to adjust my valves, I go out to my garage and check them. Then adjust if necessary. It always seems a lot of videos I’ve seen on the topic everyone looses the nut before they ever check it with the feeler and then you have no idea if they were even out to begin with, how much they were out, don’t know if they were out of spec tight, out of spec loose, if just one was out. Just my .02 but I don’t think anyone should decide to “adjust” their valves. Should just have checking them in mind then go from there. 🤷🏼♂️ you may have checked them prior and edited it out. But to someone watching I feel like they wouldn’t think to check first if they were new to doing their own maintenance.
I didn't check first, but noticed that while editing and added the message at 5:00 to try and correct people.
Friday'sThe Bomb 🤦🏼♂️ I totally missed that because that’s when I started scrolling down to make that comment haha my luck
I agree. Check first then adjust. Valves usually get tight as the valve and seat wear down
Great video.... Thanks. Need to do this. 2015 with 1400 miles. It's overdue apparently.
Great video to follow not all that fancy smancy talking just the basic simple pick up a few tools I can do this job on my own project. Thanks man, at over 18,000 miles on my XR650L you can imagine the ticking this baby's in. Glad I found your video, any tips on why a bike would have a hard time starting after stopping every so often? Not all the time time but lately it has been on go stop stop runs in town
Describe the situation that it fails to start? Cold at home it starts, but when its hot after riding it doesnt?
@@FridaysTheBomb usually after a ride, to and from place I'm going to. In the mornings or when its been sitting for a long time it'll be ok and fire right up. But recently its these go stop go stop runs that have been plaguing me. I just change my spark plug yesterday so we see what happens in the coming days
What color was the plug that you removed?
@@FridaysTheBomb I mentioned it to a friend he owns a motorcycle shop and he said it sounds like it could be my valves. I adjusted to the best of my knowledge and it ran pretty good, started right up even responding better now. But every now and then it still would not start mostly when the engine get to temperature. My plugs are clean, but I noticed when I check exhaust it was tight. I could barely get the feeler gauge to slide between but when I asked my mechanic for the specs he said intake 6 exhaust 8. I adjusted intake tighten a little maybe can do more but exhaust I wasn't sure how should be , when I explained to mechanic he said leave it alone but feeler gauge to me had a hard time sliding. I think I should go back in there and free up the exhaust slightly and tighten down my intake again? By the way 6 and 8 would be read as 0.006mm intake and 0.008 exhaust on the feeler gauge this is according to the clearance set for this cam. Please give me your thoughts and comments, I feel comfortable enough that I have the experience to tackle the job again with your advise and expertise.
nice instructional video,thanks!
Don't know if you mentioned it,
But it's easier to reach TDC with the spark plug out.
Good camera work btw.
Ive heard that, but I feel like its more trouble to remove it
>be me
>auto class
>working on briggs and stratton small engine
>dissasembled
>cleaned
>put the crank and piston back in, aswell as rod bearings and valve assembly
>go to put camshaft in
>goes well
>rotate crank to see if it is smooth
>realized the valve pushes are missing
>look in components box
>no valve pushers
>fudge
>mfw we are going to have an engine thats completely out of time
Not sure how you saw this unlisted, but you were the only view
@@FridaysTheBomb it was in the playlist,"Motovlogs and Everything Else" at the very end
Thanks for the video but were really looking to see the exhausts adjusted because of the angle that makes it hard to fit the feeler gauge in there
You have to bend it
@@FridaysTheBomb i do but once bent, it gived the feeling of too much drag....
Idk if you’ve heard of chilledcow but I think you’ll like the mix they bring to their live stream check it out maybe you’ll find some new songs to plug in
Ill lt give it a listen!
Awesome video man that is exactly how I do mine.
And what your manual says about right exhaust valve adjustment? Or there is no decompresion valve?
One comment addition: Be sure bike engine is COLD. Let the bike sit overnight and then adjust them.
puke toucher I was always told to do it when the engine is warm?
@@fj4293 I've always been taught to do it with the engine cold because that is where the tolerences are the largest. Metal expands with heat and the heated metal will also fluctuate in size due to the temperature cooling off. So, there is a few reasons why I do it cold, also I've not done a ton of valve adjustments but I have done them.
Amazing video! Thanks!!!
That was very simple!👍
Did you buy that skid plate? I've been looking for one
I guess I should probably check mine too lol...
Man you have to let me know what song that is at the end!! I’m trying to find it all I get is “ it’s Closing time” By Semisonic... hahaha
Its "you cant stay here" by koko. His soundcloud link is in the description
Thanks!
love it thanks bra
my bikes got 3200 miles bone stock. got a slight ticking noise when revving, should an adjustment fix it?
Its probably due, yeah. If you get a set of feeler guages its not hard to just open up these ports and check.
You didn’t have to drain your oil do this right? First time I did this on my XL600r was during an oil change so just trying to see if it’s needed or not thanks
Side note I know you started the bike up but just want clarification on where you had to drain some oil not all?
Oil doesn't need to be drained when adjusting valves.
Job well done
Good video.
In the flesh!!
Why does it say Jizz on your fender?
Baron von grumble swag
How do you like the windshield? I’m looking for one.
It works well. Takes some of the wind off your chest which is especially useful if its cold out.
Thank you for not having a bunch of nasty asssed screaming background music.
Thats as simple as it gets..
Is realy helps
Talk mm!
Thank you for a great video.