XR650L | Finally Fixing my Carburetor
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 4 ต.ค. 2024
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The motorcycle:
2012 Honda XR650L
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Hey guys..2000 xr650L sat for about two years with a blown engine. I did however shut off the gas line when I parked her. Swapped motors a month ago (2002 motor, mint) and got it started. Would not go past idle without cutting off. In other words, twist the throttle, and she would cut off. Emptied the tank, pulled and cleaned the carb. Still studdering. Finally pulled the carb again pulled the jet and used the wire from a loaf of bread to clean the main jet and the ones to the sides of it. BINGO...the Big Red Pig is back!!! Full Throttle!!! Braaaap! Hope this helps the XR Tribe...peace
MIXTURE SCREW IS AIR FUEL MIXTURE AT IDLE ONLY. Pilot jet is idle to about 1/8 throttle. Needle is 1/8 to almost wide open throttle. Main jet is for wide open throttle. The needle works in conjunction with the main jet. Raising and lowering the needle will enrichen or lean throttle from 1/8 to almost wide open. Quick info on what each part in the carb controls. Makes it so much easier to diagnose problems. Daves mod is also recommended for stock exhaust BTW. A freer flowing aftermarket exhaust will lean your mixture, hence needing larger jets .... Larger jets have larger holes to allow more fuel to flow under each condition. As you go up in elevation the air becomes thinner and will make your air fuel richer in all conditions and vice versa as you approach sea level. Stock Honda jetting is for sea level. Simply adjusting the air mixture screw will have no impact on off idle to wide open throttle. This is where jetting comes into play.
Sheep Dog great explanation. my goal is really to make it start and idle better so i don't get stranded so hopefully this has an impact
Hey, I just wanted to tell you a trick for cleaning carbs I learned from my model airplane days.... "Cook" your carb for 12-24 hours on low heat in a crockpot full of radiator coolant. It removes any and all tarnish and deep cleans the orifices, etc. I used it to refresh a Sportster carb and it worked wonders.... Not to mention, it's also great for model airplane engines.
is this for real? im scared to do this and it be a joke haha
@@kylena7533 Yes, it's for real.... Think about it, the operating temp of the carb is higher than low heat in a crock pot, so there's no danger to gaskets. The radiator coolant also functions as a lubricant in car motors, so it's good at penetrating nooks and crannys. I've used this technique on all my model airplane engines and it shines them up like new.
I've heard about cooking them in lemon juice, but you have to take all the gaskets out.
"Ground something in the header" refers to smoothing out the welds near the exhaust port. Its a common mod and if done correctly it just helps exhaust flow. If you have a 60 pilot jet thats way to rich, especially at any altitude and a 55 is usually the preferred combination with a 160 main. Mine is 55/162 and its a bit too rich at sea level. Try the 55, if thats still too rich go to 52. The washer on the needle is typically "none" so any washer is making it run richer than stock. That is part of "Daves Mods" Too extend the mixture screw place a tight piece of vacuum hose on the screw.
Also if it starts with no choke on a cold motor its probably running rich on idle... I would guess, if you bought in phoenix the prior owner was trying to get it to run cooler by running it rich. He should have added an oil cooler.
A very good assessment of this guy's carb problems.
The suggested fixes are excellent.
An experienced person...
Wait wait William don't go just yet. When you started talking about washers, THAT is where my carb repair went way sideways. That god dam washer, IT'S STILL IN THERE and it's not visible. How am I gonna get it out of there? Please & thank you.
On mine at 100ft above sea level using ethanol gas on stock CV carb with racing exhaust , air box mod and foam filter.... the 160 main was just a bit big, went to a 158 and perfect. The stock pilot jet was 55 I think but I ran a 58 on ethanol. I switched to strictly non ethanol now since its readily available and had to lower jets 1 size down to stock. A 55 pilot and a 155 main. This with Daves mod and needle raised 1 position on carb slide. Too much but insight for those coming up. Tossed it all away later for a pumper carb. Oh yeah.
The mixture screw and pilet jet is only for low throttle fueling only, such as from idle to 1/4 throttle. As you open the throttle more, the main jet comes into play and the mixture screw and pilot jet has no effect at that point. So opening the throttle wide and running the bike hard will not be an indication of how the mixture screw is set, or how the pilot jet is doing. Those two holes drilled in the slide should be plugged, or replace the slide with a new one. Jetting should be taken back to stock 55/158 or for high altitude 55/145. The grinding on the headers that you mentioned the previous owner did, was to remove the bead of weld on the inside of the headers where they meet the exhaust port. That, too, is not necessary and will change the low end torque curve, weakening it a little bit, but in some cases it's not even noticeable. Honda and all the rest of the Japanese bikes put that bead of weld in there for a reason, to create turbulence immediately aft of the exhaust port and before the main entrance to the headers, which helps with engines that are tuned for low-end torque.
Why would you plug the holes on the slide ? Dave's mod literally tells you to enlarge those I.Ds with a drill bit?
grinding down the header pipe is a common mod, i did it to my bike. there is a sloppy weld on the inside of the top of the pipe , by grinding that weld down it allows more exhaust to pass. its done along with air box mod and rejetting. you may want to just take the header pipe off real quick an check if its been done.
Hank Amarillo
Yea I'm sure a lot of bikes and equipment have that happen with snotty welds.
Just do a basic inspection when ya got it apart, and correct boogers if necessary.
I'm picky and if I see that on anything I'd grind it out..
I've been known to do that on lawnmowers.
How was the fuel bowl, as far as cleanliness?
There coulda been some dirt hiding somewhere
The reason the "mixturescrew' is in addition to the jets is because there are different phases of carbonation ...and idle circuit and 0-1/3 a 1/3 to2/3 and a a 2/3 to wide open They do overlap a little but basically the idle circuit is for starting idle and just off idle then the pilot jet as the throttle opens more and then the needle/needle jet and finally main jet...so obviously the idle air screw is not going to effect needle and main jet portion
I have an entire Jet kit for my XR650R. Funny because part of what I need to prep it for adventure riding is for higher elevation and cooler weather. The outside air temp will also effect how your carb should be set up. Which may be part of the reason it has felt worse in this heat. Bikes with carbs can be extremely reliable if setup right.
Yeah this is going to take some experimenting. I may try swapping some jets too.
Yeah, I'd recommend ordering a range of jets. Also the needle clip position is important. That thing you called a washer is an e-clip/needle clip on the needle. For instance on my bike it should be on the 2nd notch down from the top. Here is a good reference guide you can go off of. Its for an xr650r, so your setup would be different but it will give you a good understanding of how setting up a carb works. I can always help if you need. www.xr650r.co.uk/service/jetting/jetting.shtml
I heard the stock headers hove big sloppy welds on the inside were it bolts to the head, and people grind them down to get better exhaust flow. so the previous owner probly did that mod.
southernmost homesteader yeah it sounds like it. i might pull them off and take a look
@@FridaysTheBomb Its an old Honda racing trick they use when they have to race pure stock bikes.
I'm experiencing similar issues with my XR. The previous owner rejetted the Carb. My bike cuts out once warmed up, trouble starting, and backfires when trying to startup. I plan to remove the carb clean it and retune to hopefully fix this issue.
The jetting problem is a thing right out of the gate. I test drove one of those bikes today at a local dealership, and the sales guy had a problem keeping the bike running at idle speed on a brand new motorcycle with less than 10 miles on it. Also, the reason for different jet sizes, at least on my Suzuki, was that if you have to adjust the mixture screw past where it's between one turn and two and a half turns, you need to either go up or down a jet size accordingly.
I bought a Dynojet kit for my bike, and made a huge difference, Imo I would run with lid on and snorkel removed at low level, and remove the lid at higher elevations, should be just about right, with a 650 you don't lose that much power with the lid on
My BRP ran amazing until I got up to speed then it would just instantly cut out and back in. I tried many different fixes. Finally tore the carb down and found out the previous owner had it jetted at 165. I put in a 160 instead and it runs muuuch better. I might try a 158/155 as the summer warms up.
Dude you grind down the welds inside the headers for more airflow yes it helps. raising the needle up gets more fuel through, jetting is for the elevation you ride at.
Creating the extended fuel screw for this bike was a game changer. Turns out the fuel screw setting was primarily the starting problem.
All right man, the bigger the the jet size, the bigger the hole is. That allows more fuel to go thru. Also, shimming the jet needle raises it up further from the jet it resides in, which also gives more fuel flow. Your spark plug did look like the bike is running just a little rich, so if you continue having idle problems, try going down one jet size on the pilot jet. If the throttle response from 1/4 to wide open feels sluggish, try a slightly smaller needle jet. Or take the shim (washer) out and see how that runs.
QuikTrip! Love that place... when looking at your spark plugs you need to look down inside between the center wire and the insulation seal to see what color it is... at least that's what I've always done... Mike Finnegan talked about it recently on his channel too...
dsm02c QT is the literally the best gas station store lol. ive never heard that about the plugs. i should follow Finnegans channel, i love roadkill!
Hay Bomber , the idea is run as lean as you can at home . You can drill a hole in a popsicle stick or what ever large enough that some rubber tubing fits through and tape it to the frame and push the other end over the mixture screw . Walla
I highly recommend using the Denso, not NGK iridium plug for easier starts and better idle when cold. I use the IX27B.
Hello and thank you for sharing this video. What you did make sense to me because I had the same issue with my XR. I bought the bike used in someone had put aftermarket jets and needle in it. I found mine to run rich at idle too because the main jet was actually bleeding over into the pilot system because it uses a straight needle like on DynoJet kits. I turned the pilot jet in 1/2 turn now it idles more consistently now.
egumpher yeah I'm still learning how all of this works, but I'm glad you found it useful. I'm in the process of designing a mixture screw extension that will give me a knob i can turn to adjust the screw while riding. that way i can experiment with it at different elevations.
Friday'sThe Bomb yeah recall this old air-cooled Honda was actually designed in the 70s. Back then air cooled bikes engines needed a lot of carborator tuning. I used to have pill boxes full of jets and experimented to find what worked best. I have the factory Honda manual but it doesn't talk about carb tuning. Only factory settings.
Most 650l owners on the 'thumper talk' forums recommend a 55 pilot jet.
However, if you live in warmer climate, I would recommend the stock 50. 2.5 turns on the mix screw and you're set.
Hi Guys I have a 1999 650 dominator with same Carby. The way I fixed mine is remove and clean the unit in Carby cleaner and used a brass wire brush to get the stubborn dirt. The progression holes are the issue if you have a dead zone on slow take off. They will be reduced or blocked from gunk. Remedy is put an inline filter, sintered brass type is good so you can see through the casing to see dirt buildup. ie the flow from tank floods the filter from the outside in..
The other way will not tell you anything... The engine will stall or run rich at idle if the air corrector brass jet (the small one) is blocked and not allowing air to the mix. It's like running full choke and you cannot turn it off...which was my problem.. The jet was cleaned and put back after the progression holes were checked and pressure cleaned with Carby fluid cleaner. By shooting the straw nozzle through the idle jet hole. If you visibly see fluid coming through the three progression holes where the butterfly touches then you are good to go.. Finally do the air corrector progression hole by removing the set screw and Spring and shoot fluid down them and watching the result as described fluid passing out of the hole .. Then great clean off Carby and put together again. Check for obvious tear in rubber diaphragm or smaller diaphragm on side. The small diaphragm is the vacuum valve for the slide plenum being sucked up at full throttle progressively. I wouldn't drill out the mods to the slide plenum. All that does is reduce the slide height mid range revs to lean out the mix. The higher the slide the more fuel and air hence power.. If you have an after market exhaust the only mod I would do is main jet washer behind needle. Make it thicker to shorten the needle hence main jet tapper is allowing more fuel with same air flow. All Honda singles miss a beat time to time. It's the spark plug not being new. The fuel can be a problem I always use highest octane available after all it's only 17 ltrs per tank. I get 300 km at steady 100 km/h per tank. If you get less then it's too rich. My exhaust is slightly sooty to touch not black carbon mess at all.
Good luck please leave a comment not a thumbs up .. All that tells me is you read it..
Cheers guys
G
Make sure you clean out those black hoses on the carby I had one blocked and it would not idle ran like yours
I didn't even think of that
Pilot jet does recess that far. When you clean them spray your break cleaner through the jets to pass the fuel as the small orifices can be clogged. Your pilot jet controls idle and about quart throttle as your slide pulls the needle out of the main jet for max throttle. Also save your money and buy Walmart super tech brake cleaner same shit and is under $3 bucks. You have done well my friend nice job. Also anywhere there is a hole spray break cleaner fallowed buy compressed air. Especially where the air enters the carb from the air filter and the intake boot through the Venturi. I also keep note of what tools I used to take with me on my rides in case I have to get into the carb when your alone on the trail. You never know when that mechanical TROLL will pop up😜 where my air filter clamps to I like to paste wheel bearing grease around the area in case there is an air leak you can't see. The grease is to heavy to pass through but enough to block silt and dust. Bitch'n video.
I STILL miss your camping videos....
The 650l uses a 50 pilot jet. Not a 60 pilot jet. Thats why the idle is so rich.
Prolly not helping fuel mpg.
Awesome videos
its true it riches your mixture. prolly what happen is it wets your plug severly and plugs hardly ignites the fuel. but yea making your jet into 160 is 70% work. or 30 fouls the plug. have you plug change into irridium.
Looks just like my one with the Acerbis tank!
Ha I know I'm bad also if you are in high elevation you have to think of a cold engine or if you are closer to sea level when the bike is fully cooled off like when you wake up in the morning . Your cooler charge will create a lean condition hence the use of a choke. But then there is not enough air. So if your engine is boggy to a lack of air open the throttle wide open to allow more air into the cylinder even if you stall the engine while it's hot and it is rich now from dumping fuel into the engine. There is no cold start on that carb which they have on some of the race mx bikes which creates a kind of vacuum leak to lean the charge. That is the same as holding the throttle wide open. Sorry if I confuse you. Just want you to be as prepared for these trips as you can be I enjoy them!!!
you should 2x check you put the carb in the intake boot right, my carb feel out and left me stranded on the street lol, had to push it back in every couple minutes on the way home
vehlajatt22 i paid extra attention to those boots. the intake boot is a huge pain, but it seemed easier being disconnected from the engine side
The mixture screw only controls the mixture at idle through the idle circuit. The main jet determines the mixture above idle when the idle circuit cannot provide adequate fuel. I would say the 160 jet is too large and the problem would get worse with an increase in elevation because it will run richer automatically due to less dense air. The raising of the needle will cause it to run richer as well because the tapper in the needle will allow more fuel to pass through the main jet. Hope you got your bike running better.
Oh I solved it. The real underlying issue is the valves needed adjustment. But the experience at altitude led me to create an extended mixture screw that can be adjusted easily. As you said, it only effects the idle circuit, but that's what matters when your starting the engine too. The ability to lean the idle mixture temporarily is pretty handy if you ride in the mountains.
Nice video man I learned something today.
Rich is good for air cooled bikes. It helps with cooling. Stock jets are too lean.
Using a larger jet is thee main thing that richens yr mixture, big time..i'd jump down a jet size if it seems better ok, look at yr plug, if it looks a bit rich on yr plug still, jump down another jet size, but, you dont want to go too lean or small on yr jet or you can burn yr valves , reading yr sparkplug is the accurate way to get it dialed in correctly..whoever messed with the carb on yr bike before you bought it, obviously did not know what they were doing, i truly believe the best thing you could do in yr situation is to call a Honda dealership, talk their best mechanic, ask what stock jetting is for yr bike, write it down & put all stock back in it, keep it stock.....you will have better luck with leaving it all stock, dealerships spend millions of dollars to dial a machine in to get a happy medium , then some people come along who dont have a clue & ruins the performance, if that was my bike i woud get a new stock pc he drllied out, all stock jetting & put it back ...
People modify the XR carb because its jetted lean from the factory. At this point you'd be hard pressed to find a used XR that doesnt have a modified carb. I actually solved my idle issues by adjusting the valves, and designed an extended mixture screw to get a little extra wiggle room at high alt.
You can do small adjustments to the fuel mixer by how far the jet or needle hang into the airstream (the washers). That would be my answer to your last question
Circuits , there are more than one and only one is adjustable with a screw . Thanks
yo you can make one of those flexible tools to adjust your idle mixture. you can get a small socket bit or screw driver bit, then have it welded to a speedometer cable from a 1986 Buick Regal, then cut it to length. then add a vacuum hose over it.
FUNK BOOGIE your kinda late to the party lol. I fabricated 9 flex shaft extended screws and sold them all. I'll be selling more as soon as I can make them if your interested.
yea but first i need to buy a honda xr650l. when i have enough money lol.
He probably ground down the welds inside the exhaust flange. They often look pretty ugly inside from the factory and add restriction and turbulence to the exhaust gases.
ChaoticDetour i didn't know that was a common thing. at least i hadn't heard about it until i bought this one
Thanks for the video, hoping it helped in my issue. I've had the bike run on full choke but even after 10-15 minutes of warming up it would die either when I gave it a little or a lot of throttle or before i even got to the throttle.
That sounds like the symptom of clogged jets. But I'm not a doctor!
Pilot jet, fuel enrichment screw, needle, and main jet affect different parts of the rev range.
Yes they do
All this stems from your bike getting stolen. I'm glad it seems to be working and running better
Blue Moon haha yeah... the last one ran better but this one is in much better shape
Friday'sThe Bomb where are you!? It's been over 2 weeks!
Jordan Maus Good things come to those that wait ha ha. Or a good vlogger keeps his audience wanting more. Take your pick ha ha
Your stalling reminds me of a clogged pilot jet. To clear it i take a propane torch and burn out the debri in it. You should be able to see through it. I hold it up to a light and it should be clear.. size of a pin.
Also guys who go to higher altitude take tools to take out the carb and change the c clip on the needle. That may also be the problem. The fmf kit you got has an adjustable one, which is what you need for quick altitude adjustments.
+Rudy Alex lol taking out the carb to make needle adjustments on a whim sounds crazy.
Friday'sThe Bomb yea its a lil extreme.
8:00
Re:Cable deal for mixture screw
Maybe make or modify a screwdriver with a sleeve over it that you can reach into the mixture screw with easily?
MrTheHillfolk I've found some tools to adjust it that i might try. id rather have a knob though lol
Great videos! I just bought an 07 xr650l and love it. In the future can you make a video of how to remove the carb?
William Landon seems like a lot of people want videos about the basics like that. I wish i had done it while i was pulling this thing before so i wouldn't have to do it again lol
Friday'sThe Bomb lol no worries I might just just dig into the hog and hope for the best
Bro my whole mixture screw is gone 💀😂
Re the idle mixture screw. SO apparently "Dave's mod" includes filing the flag tab off the screw so it wont hit the stop lip on the carb. But that flag tab is kinda handy!? Gives one's fingers leverage to adjust...no? The only bad thing is the stop flag lip on the carb that prevents turning the idle mixture screw ...SO Me THINKS the the thing to cut/file is the CARB's flag stop and NOT the SCREW's flag! Yes? No?
Yeah you could cut the part on the carb instead. Or you could replace the screw with one of my extended ones haha
Your problem is the pilot jet is too short. It fills up with fuel in the housing. Get a flush or even a tad longer one.
The problem was solved long ago with a tweaked mixture screw position
Do you still sell the remote fuel mixture screw? For the xr650l thanks ...great videos keep em coming
Mixture screws don't control the whole range of throttle openings.
Different circuits do different parts of the throttle openings.
Like the idle jet might control fuel to 1/4 open throttle, the pilot circuit does the 1/4-1/2 range and the main jet goes from 1/2-full throttle.
I'm probably not 100% on my terminology, as I'm probably using some wrong words for the descriptions of the different circuits but I'm just trying to convey universal operation.
MrTheHillfolk oh i think i get it... the mixture screw supplies the correct fuel air ratio for the idle jet. so at startup and idle, it runs normal, but the other jets contol all fueling at further throttle openings?
Friday'sThe Bomb exactly :)
Good job, Charlie Sheen
shit man, this reminds me i need to do a lot of work on my bike. pretty sure it needs a tune up across the board now that its at the 14k mark. Also i got the sticker in the mail, thanks for that. You ever mess around with chain adjustments? I keep tightening mine up and sometimes i think its too tight but usually its either too tight or too loose. cant seem to find that perfect distance on the snail adjuster.
Amos Perry adjust the chain to the factory recommended slack. because these bikes have longer suspension travel, the wheel base increases a little when the suspension compresses and it will damage the chain if its too tight. that being said mine keeps loosening because o bought a "standard" chain instead of an "o ring" and dirt has gotten into it.
Don't mess with the skrew, put the stock stuff back in the stock
Carb and leave it alone, get the
Book for your XR and read it front to back. So you'll understand your bike better
You are incorrect.
@@FridaysTheBomb I live at 2500ft and ride up 7500ft when
smog off my bike and put an
open pipe on going from 2500ft
my bike ran better 5000ft might be different than mine but, it sounded like the guy that did your went a little to far with
this Dave's Mod alot of people do because that screw is for air
not fuel. and carb is made to
run a smog system and low compression it's gets up in elevation and fludes it out "please excuse my spelling "
If you look in the XR MANUAL
it explains it very well. In correct
don't think so read the book learn something new that is not
on U tube Dave's Mod is a JOKE!!!
THANK'S from NOR-CAL!!!!!
The screw on this carburetor is a fine adjustment of fuel flow. The jets on this particular bike are actually bigger than is recomended for the daves mod, which was probably part of my elevation problem. Re-jetting or otherwise modifying this carburetor is almost universally agreed upon as an improvement. The only outliers seem to be guys who like to tell people they are messing it all up.
You're completely ignorant of what the jets vs fuel mixture screw does. Jets are for general tuning and the screw is used for fine tuning. You can't get the jets to adjust things "a quarter turn" on the fuel screw. Also, one jet size up from the suggestion makes sense if the PO had pulled the intake snorkel, added aftermarket exhaust, ground down the restrictive booger welds from the factory headers, and put on a higher following silencer.
All that said, seeing the carb out of the bike helped me so I thank you for that. I just got one of these a few days ago and couldn't find the idle adjustment screw.
Be careful with that mixture screw. Some control air flow and some control physical fuel flow. If it's fuel damming it will lean the mix. Damming it if it controls air will make it rich.
I believe the screw on this carb controls fuel flow. That's what my internet research as told me anyway.
I'm clueless when it comes to that stuff.
The Steel Horseman Me too. It's sad but I can sure push a pen around
What handlebars and mounts are you using?
Easton handle bars and matching Easton mounts
I was trying to see that as well. Pretty cool ones huh?
Why would you want a CABLE on the idle mixture screw? There is plenty of room to reach in there and adjust it ...i mean not on the fly but big deal? Harbor freight sells ultra short blade screw drivers which for my KLR I cut the handle down and it is perfect for adjusting THAT screw ...assuming it will work on XR that I just bought too
Go ahead and stick your hand in there with a little tool man. Its not the only way to fix the problem.
Dude I’m n Phoenix and have the same bike, let me know if you would want to go for some rides on weekends. I’m trying to team up with some dual sport bikers
Dude, you need a Honda factory service manual for that bike. don't buy one of those crappy Clymer manuals. it will take the mystery out of your mystery.
Brian Hebert
Get em both.
The Haynes manuals give some good workarounds for factory tools sometimes.
Combined with a factory manual you are almost unstoppable.
Edit : lol oops Haynes ...clymer ...how the heck was my attention span so short I couldn't remember the correct name 😂
Agreed! Can't never have too much reference material when you are working on a bike. Just saying though, when only working with a 2nd rate manual sometimes ain't no help. Honda service manuals are not cheap, but they are what the tech at the dealership will use. The investment is worth it no matter what brand you drive. Cheers!
Agreed, 1st thing I do with every bike is order a FSM. Do the work myself & save tons of money.
Of course the Honda factory service manual is going to be ENTIRELY silent on the issue of carburetor modification (for example)....just saying .... it will only tell you how the FACTORY sets the bike up....which in several instances is well short of acceptable...no?
BTW with the internet and TH-cam? You can often do better than than factory shop manual...why? Because it takes into consideration modifications AND provides video....having said that? I agree with the statement that you cant have too much information!
Dumb question is the air filter clean?
Sean Carr yeah but I've oiled it with the wrong product. needs to be cleaned and oiled properly
Sorry bud but I'm commenting through your statements. The jets control physical fuel flow. The carb has air passages in the housing. Larger diameter jet holes moves more fuel pilot and main. Your mixture adjustment is strictly idle. Your pilot and main have two different air and fuel circuits. If you start your bike with a shitty idle circuit(piotjet) then your off that circuit after quarter throttle into your main. Four cycle engines have Excelerator pumps to kind of jump
Start the engine do to the internal reciprocating mass weight from a larger crank shaft piston diameter, timing chain and cams. A two cycle carb has no accelerator pump because they are significantly lighter in reciprocating weight mass revolution. Basically the two cycle has less moving weight parts to turn. So most four cycle engines are less affected to elevation increase where there is a lack of air wanting to stall the engine because it's too rich and it's harder to slow down the engine while it's spinning.
I've learned so much from the comments on this video lol. I realize now that the idle jet/mixture screw controls the fuel/air ratio for startup and idle. Then the needle and main jet control further fueling as you open the throttle. The main point of this procedure was to make it start and idle more reliably so I can trust it when camping. Currently I "think" it runs fine at throttle, but I'm going to experiment with different jets to see if it makes anything better.
What wind screen do you have and where did you get/order it from?
Spitfire slipstreamer on Amazon. If you ride on trails it tends to come loose, so I reccomend using blue loctite on the bolts
Nice vid!! How do you record the sound? I mean, what do you plug the Sony Business Mic into? Cheers
I plug it into my gopro with the gopro audio adapter
Do you like the windshield, and is it effective?
I do like the windshield. It takes some tweaking to get it set correctly, but it helps keep cold air off you.
did you ever post a video on how to get the carb out? I just bought one of these bikes and dont know much about them except mine needs the carburetor cleaned, and i cant seem to find a video anywhere on how to get it out.
No i never did a video on that specifically. If you remove the tank and the seat, youll have a lot of space. Then you remove the carb from the right side of the frame. Just make sure you disconnect everything.
Friday'sThe Bomb thank you for that. I actually got it out and cleaned it. And now gas is coming out of the bottom of the carb, any idea what I did wrong?
There is a needle connected to the float that closes off the port that allows fuel to enter the bowl once the bowl is full. If fuel is coming out of the overflow hole, the bowl is over filling and that needle probably isnt seated right.
Sorry if Im late on this but going from 2 1/2 to 2 is pretty drastic. Just curious. Did that work well at higher elavations?
James M i haven't ridden up to Flagstaff yet, but going to 2 turns solved the running problems I was having at sea level. the idle jet is 160, which is a bit bigger than anything I've seem recommended, so a leaner mixture setting makes sense.
@@FridaysTheBomb 160????
So it says DR200-650 but is it the same for XR650L?
No. The xr screws are currently sold out. I have parts coming in monday. Message me on ebay if you want to get on the notification list.
Another thing ....stock pilot jet is only #50 and so #60 is way richer! So at altitude the 60 is going to be quite rich I think. Maybe a 55 or even 52 would work way better at altitude?...especially (maybe) with jet kit needle which might be way slimmer and allow fuel even on the idle circuit? I am just now doing my '05 (bought used with 1500 miles on her) ...I am at 3k feet so based on your problems I think I'll start with 52 pilot along with dynojet needle ....btw the dynajet kit does NOT have you changing the pilot jet? WHY? For them to makemore money? Who knows? The jet kit I bought is supposedly "europe only" BUT the part numbers of the needle are identical to US kit! The ONLY difference I find between the two kits is the number of jets that come with the US kit ...European only comes with 160 and 165 while the US includes 155 and I think one other...I dont know
Just be careful not to lean it out too much for the lower elevations!
Trevor Jameson well it seems to run good now... 1/4 turn isn't much but future commuting and camping trips will be the judge.
That's good to know! I was just thinking you were going to completely rejet the carb leaner, meaning smaller main jet, and lowering the needle (no washer installed). I know that's a CV carb, and should compensate a little bit for altitude, but as you showed, the previous owner certainly had it jetted very rich, I mean a 160 is pretty big for anything over 5000', probably too rich even for 3500' (even with a free flow muffler and opened airbox). Good luck with it, I know you'll figure it out!
Trevor Jameson i guess I'm just now understanding how jets themselves relate to fuel mixture. right now i just want this thing start and idle at higher altitude so i don't get stuck someplace... but if the jets contribute to that, reducing the sizes might be in order
I understand what you're saying. Even if it still has the stock pilot jet in it, you may be able to get it to idle just fine by using the fuel/air screw. The idle circuit determines mixture at 0-1/4 throttle, so that would be the pilot jet and the fuel/air screw. If it sputters and runs rich at higher throttle openings, then the main jet should be smaller, and the needle should be set lower.
I noticed your plug was black, which clearly indicates rich mixture, just as you said in the video. As far as the extra holes drilled in the slide, I can't comment on the effect of doing such a thing because I have no idea what effect that may have on overall fueling, if any. I suspect that mod has something to do with lifting the slide quicker, and giving quicker response, since it's a diaphragm operated slide.
I have a DR650 and it came with a CV carb, similar to the one on your bike. But before I even rode that bike, I replaced the CV carb with a Mikuni TM40 pumper carb, which is not a CV carb and is far more tunable and throttle response is precise and predictable.
Trevor Jameson it seems to run fine at open throttle, its the idle and startup thats been problematic. i was thinking of ordering a smaller idle jet, but I have a subscriber who volunteered to send me an fmf jet kit last night haha. so ill probably put those parts in and see how it runs. i have no idea why those holes need to be drilled out, but its part of the procedure outlined for modifying this carb and in this case it was more of a verification that somebody had messed with it.
Moist sand I’m going to wreck. 😂
Haha.. no.
This guy don't have a clue
Its not .01"
Dan N should be .02 right?
Is the dial caliper you were using .100" per revolution of the dial or .200" per revolution ?
It looked to me like your caliper was .100" per rev, and it looked like your needle was only at .003" or .004" when you were measuring your washer.......but it was hard to tell.
I enjoy the videos ! I would like to get a XR myself.
Here's your mixture adjuster you wanted. th-cam.com/video/swLdY8K8J-4/w-d-xo.html
Haha I make those and sell them brother
Why make a video if you don't know what you are talking about?
Why leave a comment if your a pissy little shit?