Bob - 1 small correction - that acorn ground rod clamp is designed/listed for just one wire (grounding electrode conductor) You need to use a second clamp.
Love these videos! Please keep making them. I’m planning my cable job. Bringing in about 5 cables from outside, into the shack. Great food for thought. Thanks!
What are your thoughts on bonding a new ground rod to the grounding terminal on my service entrance panel? I have no access to the house ground rod, those dummies paved over it (closest access is 6feet of pavement)
Yikes on the pavement over ground. I would recommend consulting with an electrician on your solution; they are going to know better if this a good idea and to code.
Perfect very good, can you please tell me the diameter millimiters or inches of the wire cable that goes to the ground rod? and also what size wire or cable you use from each apparatus radio e.t.c. to the box? thank you
Though I don’t live in an HOA, I find your shack build-out videos very helpful. I purchased the MFJ patch panel (I could find only the 6 version and not the 4, as you use), and there’s a grounding wingnut on the outside of its metal case. Should I bond that lug to the bus bar?
@@HOAHamRadio Thanks. I really appreciate the high level of detail when you describe your work. So many ham elmers assume too much when explaining processes. I appreciate your approach.
@HOAHamRadio - Thanks. Intuitively that doesn't make sense to me. Doesn't bonding essentially make the 2 rods into 1? Haha - I have a lot to learn. Appreciate the response
I hear ya. I'm a mechanically inclined pragmatist; some of the electrical side of amateur radio is Greek to me...so I just do as I'm told in those cases.
I love this video series. Any tips on how to deal with the ground in Connecticut? We have lots of potatoes (rocks) in our ground. Is it better to try and try again with different locations, or is there a tool or technique to blast through the potatoes?
I don't have any experience with that problem, getting through my soil here is a piece of cake. If you know any electricians who have to drive ground rods, they may have a suggestion.
@@HOAHamRadio I don’t really have many tools, but could buy or rent as needed. Just bought my house and I’m a relatively new ham. But I’m an electrical engineer and I know the importance of grounding and safety, so I’m starting there. I’ve been using a portable setup with batteries and disconnecting when not in use, but trying to set up something more permanent now.
How refreshing, someone who gets it. Operating from your home as though you are portable is the right thing to do. I've had someone asking me how to expand his permanent antenna by lengthening his wire from and apartment balcony, while operating off shore power, without grounding / bonding.... Yikes
Have you looked into the ParadanRadio Antenna disconnect for remote disconnect of your antennas and shunting the signal to ground? Might not be a lot of help to you as you would need several of them, I only need one. Also I am trying to wrap my head around bonding my antenna lightning ground to the building ground, seems like in the event of even a close stike you would be sending a lot of voltage to your building ground rather than just dissipating it into the soil. Guess it is time for me to get my NEC Handbook out and start reading.
I've looked at the ParadanRadio gear out of curiosity but if I remember, it didn't provide enough feedline options for my setup. Agreed this is a daunting topic...research, research, research!
@@HOAHamRadioIt didn't take long to find references about it being mandatory to bond the lightning arrester ground rod to the electrical entrance ground rod, but I am not certain of the authority of that reference, I am looking for the NFPA Lightning handbook, it should hold more information. My electrical entrance and antenna grounding rods are about 30' apart, I might sink a third ground rod and tie the three together, no obstacles to doing that, and my incoming water pipes (copper) are also bonded to the electrical entrance ground rod
Appreciate the video, could you take the example of the window pass through on, is your equipment grounded/bonded to it. Is it bonded to the ground rod outside the window? What’s next
Simple answer is yes, there is a ground lug on the MFJ unit that accepts the ground strap from inside the shack and then carries it through to the outside ground rod...there was no pic for this I could share. I do intend to do a video on the window unit itself, but unfortunately, I am months behind in production right now. It will happen.
Thanks for sharing. Great info.. I see I need to make a few improvements and tweak my ground system a little. Spring storms will be arriving soon. k0klb
Thanks for watching Kevin; always glad to see you stop by. You've inspired me for a "can it antenna" episode I hope to get to in the next few months. I'll be sure to reach out to you when I post it.
hi i dug a 400 foot trechy 3 foot deep around the house 40 ground rods 6 foot galvanaised steel 500feet of gavanaisede tape no bonding to electric sistem that is don thru the psu ground sistem haz to have 2 ohms or under main haz 0 ohms
Using the hammer drill you sunk the ground rod with to drill a hole in the house would have made a more professional hole in the house instead of chancing cracking the wall or making a larger hole than necessary by hitting the wall with a hammer you had the equipment can't understand why you used the hammer instead of the hammer drill?? 🙄
Easily the most controversial and contradictory topic i have seen. No one agrees, seen many videos that show rf ground is a myth, that linking an external ground to a house ground is a huge mistake and against most building codes. I dont know who to believe, opinions coming from old elmers, arrl, electrical engineers, etc...
Copper and galvanized steel together and bare in the ground - that won't last long!
NOPE,
Bob - 1 small correction - that acorn ground rod clamp is designed/listed for just one wire (grounding electrode conductor) You need to use a second clamp.
Love these videos! Please keep making them. I’m planning my cable job. Bringing in about 5 cables from outside, into the shack. Great food for thought. Thanks!
My pleasure. Have a few more to add yet to the series.
the easy way to install ground rods. Much easier than hammer or pole driver. Nice job.
For sure Mike! Thanks for watching.
What are your thoughts on bonding a new ground rod to the grounding terminal on my service entrance panel? I have no access to the house ground rod, those dummies paved over it (closest access is 6feet of pavement)
Yikes on the pavement over ground. I would recommend consulting with an electrician on your solution; they are going to know better if this a good idea and to code.
How do you do this if your grounding rod for power is on the other side of the house and there is concrete no matter how you get there?
Perfect very good, can you please tell me the diameter millimiters or inches of the wire cable that goes to the ground rod? and also what size wire or cable you use from each apparatus radio e.t.c. to the box? thank you
Though I don’t live in an HOA, I find your shack build-out videos very helpful. I purchased the MFJ patch panel (I could find only the 6 version and not the 4, as you use), and there’s a grounding wingnut on the outside of its metal case. Should I bond that lug to the bus bar?
Yes, that is precisely what it is for. Thanks for the feedback.
@@HOAHamRadio Thanks. I really appreciate the high level of detail when you describe your work. So many ham elmers assume too much when explaining processes. I appreciate your approach.
Can the main ground be used instead of putting in a second ground rod and bonding them?
Unfortunately, that does not comply with best practice, and I presume, building codes.
@HOAHamRadio - Thanks. Intuitively that doesn't make sense to me. Doesn't bonding essentially make the 2 rods into 1? Haha - I have a lot to learn. Appreciate the response
I hear ya. I'm a mechanically inclined pragmatist; some of the electrical side of amateur radio is Greek to me...so I just do as I'm told in those cases.
Good information and explanation. Thanks Bob.
Thanks for stopping by and watching ShooterReadyStandBy.
The ground to rod connection looks to me about 8mm ?
I love this video series. Any tips on how to deal with the ground in Connecticut? We have lots of potatoes (rocks) in our ground. Is it better to try and try again with different locations, or is there a tool or technique to blast through the potatoes?
I don't have any experience with that problem, getting through my soil here is a piece of cake. If you know any electricians who have to drive ground rods, they may have a suggestion.
@@HOAHamRadio thanks. That’s what I was thinking too. Might be easier to just call an electrician to get the ground rod put in.
If you don't already own a demolition hammer, it may be worth paying their fee...which of course is never cheap for a licensed trade.
@@HOAHamRadio I don’t really have many tools, but could buy or rent as needed. Just bought my house and I’m a relatively new ham. But I’m an electrical engineer and I know the importance of grounding and safety, so I’m starting there. I’ve been using a portable setup with batteries and disconnecting when not in use, but trying to set up something more permanent now.
How refreshing, someone who gets it. Operating from your home as though you are portable is the right thing to do. I've had someone asking me how to expand his permanent antenna by lengthening his wire from and apartment balcony, while operating off shore power, without grounding / bonding.... Yikes
Have you looked into the ParadanRadio Antenna disconnect for remote disconnect of your antennas and shunting the signal to ground? Might not be a lot of help to you as you would need several of them, I only need one. Also I am trying to wrap my head around bonding my antenna lightning ground to the building ground, seems like in the event of even a close stike you would be sending a lot of voltage to your building ground rather than just dissipating it into the soil. Guess it is time for me to get my NEC Handbook out and start reading.
I've looked at the ParadanRadio gear out of curiosity but if I remember, it didn't provide enough feedline options for my setup. Agreed this is a daunting topic...research, research, research!
@@HOAHamRadioIt didn't take long to find references about it being mandatory to bond the lightning arrester ground rod to the electrical entrance ground rod, but I am not certain of the authority of that reference, I am looking for the NFPA Lightning handbook, it should hold more information. My electrical entrance and antenna grounding rods are about 30' apart, I might sink a third ground rod and tie the three together, no obstacles to doing that, and my incoming water pipes (copper) are also bonded to the electrical entrance ground rod
Appreciate the video, could you take the example of the window pass through on, is your equipment grounded/bonded to it. Is it bonded to the ground rod outside the window? What’s next
Simple answer is yes, there is a ground lug on the MFJ unit that accepts the ground strap from inside the shack and then carries it through to the outside ground rod...there was no pic for this I could share.
I do intend to do a video on the window unit itself, but unfortunately, I am months behind in production right now. It will happen.
MFJ is no longer in business so you may want to link a device from another company to give others this option
Nice video !!!
I to new build the ham radio shack!!
Thanks for watching and commenting.
great video!
Thanks for watching and commenting NUCLEAR RADIO.
Copper, base board hot water radiator 🤷
Using those 40 amp Mueller clips and a piece of 10 awg
Thanks for stopping by and watching.
Thanks for sharing. Great info.. I see I need to make a few improvements and tweak my ground system a little. Spring storms will be arriving soon. k0klb
Thanks for watching Kevin; always glad to see you stop by. You've inspired me for a "can it antenna" episode I hope to get to in the next few months. I'll be sure to reach out to you when I post it.
@@HOAHamRadio Cool..! looking forward to it !!!
73 likes, A very good number huh.
I'll take it Edwin! Thanks for watching.
@@HOAHamRadio 73's or 72, (Good bye, Thanks..) not sure if that's used much.
hi i dug a 400 foot trechy 3 foot deep around the house 40 ground rods 6 foot galvanaised steel 500feet of gavanaisede tape no bonding to electric sistem that is don thru the psu ground sistem haz to have 2 ohms or under main haz 0 ohms
Those cheap clamps are the weak link to your entire set up.
Thanks for the positive feedback.
Using the hammer drill you sunk the ground rod with to drill a hole in the house would have made a more professional hole in the house instead of chancing cracking the wall or making a larger hole than necessary by hitting the wall with a hammer you had the equipment can't understand why you used the hammer instead of the hammer drill?? 🙄
Its a thousand pounds, holding it horizontally is not fun, and it will trash hollow block. Not my preferred tool for the job.
Easily the most controversial and contradictory topic i have seen. No one agrees, seen many videos that show rf ground is a myth, that linking an external ground to a house ground is a huge mistake and against most building codes. I dont know who to believe, opinions coming from old elmers, arrl, electrical engineers, etc...
You summarized it well. Ask two hams on this subject and you'll get 10 answers. I chose to follow the ARRL version of the answer.