Thanks! I took my ham exam this past January. I passed technican, general, and extra class all in one sitting. But i still havent even made my first contact because im nervous about running antennas. This video was a big help.
Thanks. Glad you found it useful. It's been about a year so an updated video is in order. Two more antennas were added as well as battery backup system 73
Your install turned out great! Having a proper shack inside the house is a game changer. Getting a new tool is worth the trip to Home Depot. My dog likes to "help" me with projects as well. Cheers!
The gyprock/drywall saw will save you 99% of your time. I've made thousands of holes with them. I have touched cables, plumbing pipes and frame straps and even cut through a termites nest in the wall which saved the lady's house as they were rampant and eating up here house fast. I had to lol at the razor blade method, sorry.😅 Lucky you didnt cut yourself. Youll be a drywall pro in no time. Looking forward to the transformation videos. Looks great so far.🍻🤠
Thank you for the tip. I'll look into it if I need to make more cuts. The utility knife worked really well, especially with a fresh blade, for these two small cuts. Enjoy the rest of your weekend, Don.
I use an oscillating multi-tool for drywall. Poke a long screwdriver through the wall to align your boxes. Always cut a smaller hole for the box and shave it to fit. Too big, and you have a problem. You can always go back and replace the single gang with a two gang "old work" box or plate to expand your feed through. When a wall butts up to another wall, you won't always have perfect spacing for the studs. Exterior an interior wall studs and load bearing wall studs are typically 16" O.C. Interior walls are 24" O.C. 9 or 10 foot ceilings will normally have fire-stop blocking in them if you're coming down from an attic. You need extra long wood bits or, cut the drywall, fish it through, patch and paint. I'm always available for an "antenna raising" party! Good job G-Man!
Sometimes part of the fun is learning how to do new things! Most of us do Not have a drill press! I like the clamp and role of tape to hold the plate when drilling the holes. You use what you have to do what you can. 73 W4DES
Bro. Im looking to run my 2 coax cables from 2 attic mount antennas (GMRS and 2m/70) and this is exactly what i am going to do. Labeling them and all. I love this setup. Perfect! I am going to post my video for my mounting and running as well and i will put your channel name on the screen for credit for this portion of the video.
Thanks for shooting my some street credit. Good luck with your install and video. This setup works great. Since this video was posted, I actually added an identical second box.
@@TheTechPrepper Absolutely man. And good thinking. I was thinking a double blank faceplate with 4 barrel connectors as well. I didn't cut any holes yet so I may start there instead of 2 separate ones.
That's how it goes. I was back to The Home Depot for dry wall fasteners for the antenna mast mount and new drill bit. It's always a new drill bit. It was fun taking you along for the install.
Thank you for the great vid. I will be installing an antenna soon and was wondering how it should enter the room. That split-plate is super cool! I could leave the PL-259 right on the cable and just bring it in! Kudos, man! TYFP!
For building entrances, I would suggest using a PolyPhaser System. They offer good lightning protection, & system grounding. Admittedly, they require a larger hole, but if done correctly, will pay off in terms of safety & feedline longevity. As an option to adding extra antennas, without having to route more runs of coax, consider a multi band antenna, along with a diplexor inside the house. This way, multiple radios can be connected to one antenna. I ran a discone antenna for years this way. A 2-meter rig on one port, with a GMRS Radio on a different port. When I wanted to monitor things with a scanner, I had an antenna switch, and simply flipped it over, for dedicated scanner use. It worked surprisingly well. Food for thought. :)
Excellent food for thought. Yes, I absolutely plan on installing a high quality entrance system. I was looking at the these by K7FP: www.kf7p.com/KF7P/EntrancePanels.html I also looked at the remote antenna switches from DX Engineering, but I'm a bit lost. Thank you.
@@TheTechPrepper Before you go out and invest a great deal in antennas, feedline, & all the accessories, draw-out in simple terms what you're after. What bands do you want monitor, and whether it's dedicated use (i.e. one antenna - one radio), or a multi band antenna to several radios. I believe Cushcraft made a multi band antenna, for 6-meter (50 MHz), 2-meters (144 MHz), & 70-cm (440 MHz). Keep in-mind, that there are trade-offs, when it comes to bandwidth, vs. gain, when dealing with antennas. For an all around broadband antenna, Discone Antennas work well for omnidirectional coverage, but no gain to speak of, whereas a log periodic antenna will still be fairly broadband over a given range, but is highly directional, for pin point or dxing distant transmissions. For coax runs under 100-ft, and under 200 MHz, Belden 9913 flexible works great, & standard PL-259/SO-239 connectors work just fine. I prefer the silver-plated variety, with a good Teflon insulator. Once you go much above 100-ft runs, and work frequencies above 200 MHz, loss in-terms of feedline & connectors becomes a factor. Low loss connectors such as N & BNC are preferred, along with low loss coax. Antenna height is always a factor, such as clearing local structures, trees, etc... Base on the landscape outside your home, it looks like the southwest (i.e. Arizona, Nevada, New Mexico, etc...). Unless you live in a large town like Phoenix, I don't think you should have any issues. The coax entrance into your home, should afford you solid lightning protection, and a weather-tight solution, keeping the elements & pests outside. You really don't want something like a scorpion making a cameo appearance on your radio desk. :o
@@oliverw.douglas285 Oliver, thanks for the details. Yes, I have a very clear picture of my particular communication goals for both monitoring and transmitting. I plan to design the "final state" solution to meet my operating objectives. The list of antennas, entry panel, antenna switching, lightning arrestors, and grounding will all be taken into account. This is going to be a year long project with a "buy once, cry one" approach. I appreciate the time that you put into this feedback. 73 de KT7RUN
@@TheTechPrepper The K7FP panels are excellent, I've got his medium box. I did have to cut open the wall and install a plywood backing to bolt the box to as I'm like you with stucco which you really can't bolt stuff to. I also used a cable cover that has what looks like brushes for the inside.
As a professional hammer swinger, you did fine with the drywall. You can continue to use the dryer vent, grab a 4in duct cap (Model# DC4 from HD) and punch some holes with your unibit. Then get some appropriate grommets to go around the wire. Stuff some fiberglass insulation and/or steel wool in the vent to keep them from making a nest. You can attach the cap with silver foil tape or any tape really. This would be a long term solution and also not make any permanent modifications. If you want some extra bug deterrent, get some diatomaceous earth from a garden center and dust the duct. Unless someone in your house is allergic to sea shells (it's ground up petrified sea shells) it will kill bugs naturally without chemicals that could harm pets.
Thank you. I guess the first cut is always the most nerve-racking. It feels good to know that these projects are not that difficult. It looks like there's another trip to The Home Deport this weekend. I plan to take on your dry duct project. Take care.
You're welcome. I'm healing up from a running injury, so we'll move on to my normal field videos after the recovery. I have at least one more shack video coming this month.
Love ya vids. Wondering if you guys have "Multitools" over there, Im a Snr Comms N/W Eng'r here in Australia & regularly have to cut plaster (dry ) wall, just like you the 1st thing I do is check with a multi stud finder to get an idea of what if anything might be behind the wall, trace out where I want to cut & out comes the multitool you end up with a very clean, professional looking, just about dustless & very quick cut without ant danger of cutting any services behind the wall ( if you don't wave a multi stud finder ) as the multi tool simply uses vibration to cut the hole you want. You can get a number of different blades for the multi tool including for cutting timber, plaster, ( dry ), copper the list is pretty endless. The other thing that I do if cutting a hole on both sides of the wall to make sure that the holes line up precisley is to 1st make (trace) out on one side of the wall, get a thin rod approx 12 to 18 inches long sharpened at one end & push it through the middle of your 1st side of the wall until you are just touching the inside of the 2nd wall then with the remaining rod still sticking out that you have not pushed into the wall put a small spirit level on it to make sure it is absolutely level in both the horizontal & the vertical plain then just guve it a gentle tap just to make the out outside of the other side of the wall. Then take your tracing device around to the other side of the wall & place it so that the mark that you have just made is dead center of your tracing device, mark it out & cut it out & you will have a perfectly matching hole each side of the wall. Ive done this 100's of times in my job & its worked perfectly every time. Here in Australia we have both tje Bull Nose brush wall plate as well aa the the Brush wall plate both are exellent for running multiple cables through im guessing you might also have them in the U.S. Anyway keep up the great work & look forward to following the build & fit out of the new shack. Rgs Wayne VK3ECS Australia.
Looks good. We all learn as we go. I will be putting in a ground rod for the shack in the next few months. For that i will use a ground rod driver that is used with a hammer drill.
Good luck punching through. The ground rods out here take a few weeks to drive in. Our soil is rocky...evening digging a foot or two takes some time and requires a jack hammer.
@@TheTechPrepper the soil is difficult out here. Up to 2 ft on my property is good n easy by the shack, beyond that I don't know. I think because my neighborhood is a development and not in foothills, I was cleared of most rock formations up to two feet, possibly more. It may be easier than your property.
For cutting into installed drywall, nothing beats an oscillating tool like the Dewalt DCS356B. Cuts through gypsum board like a hot knife cuts through butter!
I came across that exact tool while researching this project, but I could not justify the cost of a single hole. It seems worth it if you have to install multiple gangs. Thanks for sharing.
Hello Gaston, you have really done a very good job. It looks absolutely perfect and professional. Have holidays soon and I hope we can meet. Would be very happy.
Nothing yet. That will have to wait for the utility box project. It's a nightmare to dig more than 3 inches here. It will take a good month to get an 8ft ground rod in.
@@TheTechPrepperhave you thought of using some sort of auger? I saw a 3/4 in by 72 in auger bit that would help alot, as well as the 3/8 in by 72 in bit. The 3/8 bit is a little small for the 5/8 ground rods, but would make getting the ground rod in the ground much easier.
Looks mighty fine, Gaston! Those step-bits definitely aren't cheap! 😜 I need to re-run the coax going from my bulkhead connector in the eave of my roof down to the box in my shack. I've got two separate lengths of RG-213. That's what happens when you don't measure correctly! 🥵
Looks great! I have a window in my shack and have been pulling the coax in and out for the past 3 years. STARTING TO GET OLD!!! I'm going to be doing the same thing this summer. I have to go through brick and block wall. That's what has dragging my feet. 73 KO4CXD
Hey, it looks like we pretty much did the same thing for the last years. I would deploy my HF antennas for an afternoon or morning, then tear them down. Good luck with your project!
Some great ideas here! I have just been working with an ugly hole in my exterior wall, wracking my brains to figure out the best way to seal it and make it look nice. Step drill is totally the way to go. I built a battery box using one, drilling holes for power outlets in a cutting board that replaced the tool tray inside the boat box. Completely sealed when not in use. :) de KC1JMH
Atleast ya doin what ya can woth what ya got but a 4 way remote antenna switch is a must so ya can run upto 4 antennas on 1 run of coax but its also good when experimenting
That's a great point. I actually have an area to repair in the house that is unrelated to this project. This little project is going to make that job a piece of cake.
That move came out when I was in elementary school. I still get this a lot. In fact, when I worked at Disney Land in the late 90's, I would borrow other name tags from my fellow staff members to avoid the constant songs from visitors.
@@outsidetheboxperspectives6981 I appreciate your support. Thank you. I am trying to film a fun and practical one for you guys this weekend. A "No Random Contacts" field exercise!
I might have missed it somewhere but I didn't see any type of lightning arrester installed before bringing your cables directly into your shack... Also, are you aware that you can purchase SO-239 Bulkhead Connectors in pretty much any length you would need, thereby eliminating the need for a patch cable? Food for thought...
I'm not sure yet, as I will likely add a total of 4 antennas on this side of the house. I could either go with a 4-gang or get an antenna switch and use the 2-gang that I have. I'm still on the fence. If I change it, I'll do a short update video.
Unfortunately, our windows do not open. I would have gone that approach a long time ago, but thank you for the suggestion. This would work well for a lot of other operators.
Let me clarify. I only lost the QDX, but I had no intention of potentially stressing my Yaesu FT--897D as it is not easily replaceable as it has been discontinued for a while. The radios are happy with the new temperature controlled environment. My FT-2980R spent a couple of years in the garage, but it was turned off 99% of the time.
@@TheTechPrepper I liked your video but I know if my audio was not so good I'd want someone to tell me. All the best. I have the gopro media mount and I set my settings for both front and rear. That way the audio is picked up front and back.
DIY project with ONE trip to Home Depot... Its usually 2 or 3 for me. I enjoy your installation videos.
That's usually how it goes. My initial order should count as the first "trip." So, let's call it two trips.
Nice job, Gaston, thanks for letting us go along with you. 73 de K0WHW Bill in Tempe
Cheers to another Arizonan!
Thanks! I took my ham exam this past January. I passed technican, general, and extra class all in one sitting. But i still havent even made my first contact because im nervous about running antennas. This video was a big help.
Congratulations. That's exciting. Enjoy the journey and process. Good luck with your first contact.
Nicely done Gaston,
I enjoyed this episode, and look forward to following along on your journey.
Thanks, Jose. There's always a new rabbit hole to explore. Cheers, my friend.
Any project with only *ONE* extra trip to the hardware store is a big win in my book! 😊
Yep. It's a decent round trip to town, so one trip is ideal. Cheers!
Very nice home. I blanked out just a bit, there - 9:27 - while staring at the pretty little Senorita on your tshirt.
fine job well done ALWAYS learning
Thanks. Glad you found it useful. It's been about a year so an updated video is in order. Two more antennas were added as well as battery backup system 73
Your install turned out great! Having a proper shack inside the house is a game changer. Getting a new tool is worth the trip to Home Depot. My dog likes to "help" me with projects as well. Cheers!
Proper tools, while pricey, are everything. The pups are good helpers. I never lose anything anymore. The Rat Terrier will find it.
"I'm not very handy, but I am an engineer" ... GG May 2023.
I guess I need to get that t-shirt made. It's a good thing that only people on the live stream heard it.
Thanks Gaston. The winging it as you go along videos are awesome.
Glad you enjoyed it. I had a plan to start, but it evolved organically (A.K.A. winging it). ;-)
Wow, reminds me of buying my first house and being so happy I could cut holes in the walls and install my radio set.
It felt strange cutting into the walls, but that's one of the benefits of owning your home.
The gyprock/drywall saw will save you 99% of your time. I've made thousands of holes with them. I have touched cables, plumbing pipes and frame straps and even cut through a termites nest in the wall which saved the lady's house as they were rampant and eating up here house fast. I had to lol at the razor blade method, sorry.😅 Lucky you didnt cut yourself. Youll be a drywall pro in no time. Looking forward to the transformation videos. Looks great so far.🍻🤠
Thank you for the tip. I'll look into it if I need to make more cuts. The utility knife worked really well, especially with a fresh blade, for these two small cuts. Enjoy the rest of your weekend, Don.
I use an oscillating multi-tool for drywall. Poke a long screwdriver through the wall to align your boxes. Always cut a smaller hole for the box and shave it to fit. Too big, and you have a problem. You can always go back and replace the single gang with a two gang "old work" box or plate to expand your feed through. When a wall butts up to another wall, you won't always have perfect spacing for the studs. Exterior an interior wall studs and load bearing wall studs are typically 16" O.C. Interior walls are 24" O.C. 9 or 10 foot ceilings will normally have fire-stop blocking in them if you're coming down from an attic. You need extra long wood bits or, cut the drywall, fish it through, patch and paint. I'm always available for an "antenna raising" party! Good job G-Man!
Excellent tips, Brian. Thank you. This is all new territory. Sounds good. I'll take you up on the roof antenna deployment and buy you lunch.
Sometimes part of the fun is learning how to do new things! Most of us do Not have a drill press! I like the clamp and role of tape to hold the plate when drilling the holes. You use what you have to do what you can. 73 W4DES
You're right about that. The step was essential, but improvising everything else more than accomplished the job. Thanks for the view and comment.
Bro. Im looking to run my 2 coax cables from 2 attic mount antennas (GMRS and 2m/70) and this is exactly what i am going to do. Labeling them and all. I love this setup. Perfect! I am going to post my video for my mounting and running as well and i will put your channel name on the screen for credit for this portion of the video.
Thanks for shooting my some street credit. Good luck with your install and video. This setup works great. Since this video was posted, I actually added an identical second box.
@@TheTechPrepper Absolutely man. And good thinking. I was thinking a double blank faceplate with 4 barrel connectors as well. I didn't cut any holes yet so I may start there instead of 2 separate ones.
Love seeing all the issues and the final project. Seems like any project around the house I do takes 3 or 4 trips to Home Depot!😊
That's how it goes. I was back to The Home Depot for dry wall fasteners for the antenna mast mount and new drill bit. It's always a new drill bit. It was fun taking you along for the install.
Thank you for the great vid. I will be installing an antenna soon and was wondering how it should enter the room. That split-plate is super cool! I could leave the PL-259 right on the cable and just bring it in! Kudos, man! TYFP!
For building entrances, I would suggest using a PolyPhaser System. They offer good lightning protection, & system grounding. Admittedly, they require a larger hole, but if done correctly, will pay off in terms of safety & feedline longevity.
As an option to adding extra antennas, without having to route more runs of coax, consider a multi band antenna, along with a diplexor inside the house. This way, multiple radios can be connected to one antenna. I ran a discone antenna for years this way. A 2-meter rig on one port, with a GMRS Radio on a different port. When I wanted to monitor things with a scanner, I had an antenna switch, and simply flipped it over, for dedicated scanner use. It worked surprisingly well. Food for thought. :)
Excellent food for thought. Yes, I absolutely plan on installing a high quality entrance system. I was looking at the these by K7FP:
www.kf7p.com/KF7P/EntrancePanels.html
I also looked at the remote antenna switches from DX Engineering, but I'm a bit lost.
Thank you.
@@TheTechPrepper Before you go out and invest a great deal in antennas, feedline, & all the accessories, draw-out in simple terms what you're after. What bands do you want monitor, and whether it's dedicated use (i.e. one antenna - one radio), or a multi band antenna to several radios. I believe Cushcraft made a multi band antenna, for 6-meter (50 MHz), 2-meters (144 MHz), & 70-cm (440 MHz).
Keep in-mind, that there are trade-offs, when it comes to bandwidth, vs. gain, when dealing with antennas. For an all around broadband antenna, Discone Antennas work well for omnidirectional coverage, but no gain to speak of, whereas a log periodic antenna will still be fairly broadband over a given range, but is highly directional, for pin point or dxing distant transmissions.
For coax runs under 100-ft, and under 200 MHz, Belden 9913 flexible works great, & standard PL-259/SO-239 connectors work just fine. I prefer the silver-plated variety, with a good Teflon insulator. Once you go much above 100-ft runs, and work frequencies above 200 MHz, loss in-terms of feedline & connectors becomes a factor. Low loss connectors such as N & BNC are preferred, along with low loss coax.
Antenna height is always a factor, such as clearing local structures, trees, etc... Base on the landscape outside your home, it looks like the southwest (i.e. Arizona, Nevada, New Mexico, etc...). Unless you live in a large town like Phoenix, I don't think you should have any issues.
The coax entrance into your home, should afford you solid lightning protection, and a weather-tight solution, keeping the elements & pests outside. You really don't want something like a scorpion making a cameo appearance on your radio desk. :o
@@oliverw.douglas285 Oliver, thanks for the details. Yes, I have a very clear picture of my particular communication goals for both monitoring and transmitting. I plan to design the "final state" solution to meet my operating objectives. The list of antennas, entry panel, antenna switching, lightning arrestors, and grounding will all be taken into account. This is going to be a year long project with a "buy once, cry one" approach. I appreciate the time that you put into this feedback. 73 de KT7RUN
@@TheTechPrepper The K7FP panels are excellent, I've got his medium box. I did have to cut open the wall and install a plywood backing to bolt the box to as I'm like you with stucco which you really can't bolt stuff to. I also used a cable cover that has what looks like brushes for the inside.
As a professional hammer swinger, you did fine with the drywall. You can continue to use the dryer vent, grab a 4in duct cap (Model# DC4 from HD) and punch some holes with your unibit. Then get some appropriate grommets to go around the wire. Stuff some fiberglass insulation and/or steel wool in the vent to keep them from making a nest. You can attach the cap with silver foil tape or any tape really. This would be a long term solution and also not make any permanent modifications. If you want some extra bug deterrent, get some diatomaceous earth from a garden center and dust the duct. Unless someone in your house is allergic to sea shells (it's ground up petrified sea shells) it will kill bugs naturally without chemicals that could harm pets.
Thank you. I guess the first cut is always the most nerve-racking. It feels good to know that these projects are not that difficult. It looks like there's another trip to The Home Deport this weekend. I plan to take on your dry duct project. Take care.
Good stuff man. Well done.
Thanks. 73's
Looks good to me Gaston, well done.
Thanks, Malen. It's working like a champ.
Im really enjoying this Shack series ! Thanks for putting them in a playlist too !
You're welcome. I'm healing up from a running injury, so we'll move on to my normal field videos after the recovery. I have at least one more shack video coming this month.
Oh dam.. hope your ok.. wish you a speedy recovery ! TC !
that was such a good video! your house and your setup is awesome 👌
Glad you liked it!! It's time for an update video. The antennas have moved to the roof. 73
Nice set-up !
Thanks. It turned out better than I thought.
Great content Gaston….really enjoyed this video
I'm glad to hear it! Have a good one, Doug. Hopefully, you'll enjoy the next field video. Another No Random Contacts video is coming up.
You did a great job!!! Like your set up👍
Thanks. It ended up being very functional and looks much cleaner than I imagined.
Love ya vids.
Wondering if you guys have "Multitools" over there, Im a Snr Comms N/W Eng'r here in Australia & regularly have to cut plaster (dry ) wall, just like you the 1st thing I do is check with a multi stud finder to get an idea of what if anything might be behind the wall, trace out where I want to cut & out comes the multitool you end up with a very clean, professional looking, just about dustless & very quick cut without ant danger of cutting any services behind the wall ( if you don't wave a multi stud finder ) as the multi tool simply uses vibration to cut the hole you want.
You can get a number of different blades for the multi tool including for cutting timber, plaster, ( dry ), copper the list is pretty endless.
The other thing that I do if cutting a hole on both sides of the wall to make sure that the holes line up precisley is to 1st make (trace) out on one side of the wall, get a thin rod approx 12 to 18 inches long sharpened at one end & push it through the middle of your 1st side of the wall until you are just touching the inside of the 2nd wall then with the remaining rod still sticking out that you have not pushed into the wall put a small spirit level on it to make sure it is absolutely level in both the horizontal & the vertical plain then just guve it a gentle tap just to make the out outside of the other side of the wall.
Then take your tracing device around to the other side of the wall & place it so that the mark that you have just made is dead center of your tracing device, mark it out & cut it out & you will have a perfectly matching hole each side of the wall.
Ive done this 100's of times in my job & its worked perfectly every time.
Here in Australia we have both tje Bull Nose brush wall plate as well aa the the Brush wall plate both are exellent for running multiple cables through im guessing you might also have them in the U.S.
Anyway keep up the great work & look forward to following the build & fit out of the new shack.
Rgs
Wayne VK3ECS
Australia.
I thought I was watching HGTV for a second. Nice job, Gaston!
Haha. Actually, I built a large portion of their website back in 2014.
Looks good. We all learn as we go. I will be putting in a ground rod for the shack in the next few months. For that i will use a ground rod driver that is used with a hammer drill.
Good luck punching through. The ground rods out here take a few weeks to drive in. Our soil is rocky...evening digging a foot or two takes some time and requires a jack hammer.
@@TheTechPrepper the soil is difficult out here. Up to 2 ft on my property is good n easy by the shack, beyond that I don't know. I think because my neighborhood is a development and not in foothills, I was cleared of most rock formations up to two feet, possibly more. It may be easier than your property.
@@TheTechPrepper an auger could work as well if it is difficult.
For cutting into installed drywall, nothing beats an oscillating tool like the Dewalt DCS356B. Cuts through gypsum board like a hot knife cuts through butter!
I came across that exact tool while researching this project, but I could not justify the cost of a single hole. It seems worth it if you have to install multiple gangs. Thanks for sharing.
@@TheTechPrepper an oscillating tool can do a lot more than cut drywall!
@@jhopkins213 That's a good point. I am a Dewalt guy, so I'll pick up a DCS356B next time I'm out. Not a bad price...$99 USD. Thanks for the push.
The CHA LEFs 8010 is my home setup too! Resonant & invisible ;)
It's a great performer and nice to run most bands (expect 60m) without a tuner.
Hello Gaston, you have really done a very good job. It looks absolutely perfect and professional. Have holidays soon and I hope we can meet. Would be very happy.
Thanks. A cup of coffee and meet up would be nice. Cheers from the US.
Going to have to do a similar thing myself this year. Gonna learn on my place so when I go to my friend's to do theirs it wont be the first time
Good luck being the guinea pig. You'll nail it.
Great video as always! I like the split plate idea and the stainless steel cover. 73
It's working out like a champ. I highly recommend this approach.
Nicely done. Projects always evolve. What did you do (or will you do) about grounding?
Nothing yet. That will have to wait for the utility box project. It's a nightmare to dig more than 3 inches here. It will take a good month to get an 8ft ground rod in.
@@TheTechPrepperhave you thought of using some sort of auger? I saw a 3/4 in by 72 in auger bit that would help alot, as well as the 3/8 in by 72 in bit.
The 3/8 bit is a little small for the 5/8 ground rods, but would make getting the ground rod in the ground much easier.
Looks mighty fine, Gaston! Those step-bits definitely aren't cheap! 😜 I need to re-run the coax going from my bulkhead connector in the eave of my roof down to the box in my shack. I've got two separate lengths of RG-213. That's what happens when you don't measure correctly! 🥵
Great video. Question. Grounding?
Looks great! I have a window in my shack and have been pulling the coax in and out for the past 3 years. STARTING TO GET OLD!!! I'm going to be doing the same thing this summer. I have to go through brick and block wall. That's what has dragging my feet. 73 KO4CXD
Hey, it looks like we pretty much did the same thing for the last years. I would deploy my HF antennas for an afternoon or morning, then tear them down. Good luck with your project!
Some great ideas here! I have just been working with an ugly hole in my exterior wall, wracking my brains to figure out the best way to seal it and make it look nice. Step drill is totally the way to go. I built a battery box using one, drilling holes for power outlets in a cutting board that replaced the tool tray inside the boat box. Completely sealed when not in use. :) de KC1JMH
Got my GMRS license last week. Fun listening to “non hams” I’m curious to watch what you do with it. It mainly a curiosity for me at this point.
Congratulations! It's really popular among the overland community. That's where I plan to use mine. Enjoy.
Premature optimization is the root of all evil. Good to see someone else living the DevOps lifestyle outside of work :)
Bingo! I've seen my share of micro optimizations go sideways.
Atleast ya doin what ya can woth what ya got but a 4 way remote antenna switch is a must so ya can run upto 4 antennas on 1 run of coax but its also good when experimenting
Thanks. I'm flipping through the DX Engineering catalog now.
Job well done. Remeber, drywall can always be repaired.
That's a great point. I actually have an area to repair in the house that is unrelated to this project. This little project is going to make that job a piece of cake.
I just rearranged my office. I need to drill a hole thru the exterior of the house and install a 12x12 box for coax and lightning arrestors.
You can use RG-213 coax to save some money. The losses is minimal, which wouldn't hurt too much on your signal.
I looked at RG-213, too. We have some 440 MHz activity out here, so the LMR-240 seemed like the right balance of budget and performance.
Nice cactus.
No one Films like Gaston, no one Drills like Gaston, no one shows us their radio Thrills like Gaston!
That move came out when I was in elementary school. I still get this a lot. In fact, when I worked at Disney Land in the late 90's, I would borrow other name tags from my fellow staff members to avoid the constant songs from visitors.
@@TheTechPrepper LOL I bet :) I do really enjoy your videos, man, keep it up! :) - N9XRY
@@outsidetheboxperspectives6981 I appreciate your support. Thank you. I am trying to film a fun and practical one for you guys this weekend. A "No Random Contacts" field exercise!
I might have missed it somewhere but I didn't see any type of lightning arrester installed before bringing your cables directly into your shack... Also, are you aware that you can purchase SO-239 Bulkhead Connectors in pretty much any length you would need, thereby eliminating the need for a patch cable? Food for thought...
You did not miss it. It will be in a future build out. It will be included in the entry panel that will be installed later this year.
Btw coax ya want is hyperflex 5 or 7 if ya dont want to use lmr400😉
Got it. Thanks!
So if you could do it again you would have went with a 2-gang low voltage bracket/box?
I'm not sure yet, as I will likely add a total of 4 antennas on this side of the house. I could either go with a 4-gang or get an antenna switch and use the 2-gang that I have. I'm still on the fence. If I change it, I'll do a short update video.
On the windows are eventually you wanna come true they sell that window bar with all the connectors on it might wanna look into that
Unfortunately, our windows do not open. I would have gone that approach a long time ago, but thank you for the suggestion. This would work well for a lot of other operators.
Did you loose another radio or was it the QDX?
I've been concerned about heat in my shack also
Let me clarify. I only lost the QDX, but I had no intention of potentially stressing my Yaesu FT--897D as it is not easily replaceable as it has been discontinued for a while. The radios are happy with the new temperature controlled environment. My FT-2980R spent a couple of years in the garage, but it was turned off 99% of the time.
Coarse stainless steel wool packed in the hole will keep anything with fur, small enough to fit in the hole out.
Excellent tip. I think I'll go with this idea. Thank you.
14.5” apart is 16” on center
hi lmr 900 uhf whf rg213 hf ,lightnung arestors in rest is a preaty build
Most dual band ham antennas will do gmrs just fine.
Maybe if they have a loading coil. I found a 1/4 2M NMO antenna to be lackluster for picking it up.
Why not RG8-U?
Why have I never thought of using a roll of duct tape to drill holes in stuff?
Did you watch McGyver last century? I grew up with it. You'd be surprised what you can use duct tape for.
FYI, when you turn the camera away from you it sounds like you're talking with a pillow over your face. Audio is good when the camera is on you.
I appreciate the feedback. I'll be sure to run my Rode mic next time when using the phone for these quick point and shoot videos.
@@TheTechPrepper I liked your video but I know if my audio was not so good I'd want someone to tell me. All the best. I have the gopro media mount and I set my settings for both front and rear. That way the audio is picked up front and back.
Little late for this, but my dog is named scout. He is just like your dog at the start..... A pain in my @$$
Haha. Cheers to another "Scout" owner. They can be demanding at times, but it's worth it