Thank you for a great video, mate! After watching it a few weeks ago I ordered some wax and had a dipping tab made. It is much better than just painting. It lasts longer and looks good as well.
I just built a tank today and plan on starting to dip my new boxes for the year this winter. Can I ask you how big your tank is and how much wax did you start off with when you first got started? I'm getting ready to order some wax and was trying to get an idea of how much to start off with.
I built all my hive boxes and frames myself( Langstroth dimensions) about 40 years ago. The boxes, 50 of them were painted with latex on the outside only. Some of the boxes have needed some repair over time as well as some repainting. Although my wooden equipment was not built for eternity it has served me fairly well at a very low cost.
I dipped some old painted boxes for a friend once. It left some propolis and paint chips floating in my wax but it wasn't too bad. A good scraping would solve that. I thought it might blister the paint but it didn't. The burners are from Tejas Smokers. They are 30,000 BTU banjo style burners and have convenient little feet cast into them so the sit level on the ground. Can't say enough good things about Tejas Smokers. They are really great guys.
I have yet to start beekeeping, but have a good number of books and watched people's vids. I've seen that the bees tend to glue the boxes and lids together using propolis. Does treating the wood with Parafin / crystalline wax make it easier or harder for th propolis to stick the frames and boxes together where they meet as opposed to painting or varnishing as some people do. I've also noticed that the plastic manufactured boxes appear to be particularly prone to being glued up by propolis.
It is not like the bees paint everything together with propolis . The bees will glue the frames down to the boxes on the top edges . In the hot summers it is really not that bad it is just sticky . In the fall near the end of your inspection you need to NOT scrape it off where the boxes join that way it will help seal up the air gaps to keep the cold air out thru the winter because in the winter you DO NOT GO DEEP INTO YOUR HIVE anyway . Hope this helped a little
Wonder if you can use dyes to color the wax. I like a variety of color, nothing bold, too help break up the outline of a stack of boxes, or several stacks. I always worry they will get swiped or messed with and do a quick count every time I pull within sight of my hives.
thanks for posting, the post is 5years old now; are your results as expected? What size burner(s) BTUs might be recommended? I have gotten my stainless steel vat completed; a friend welded it up for me and I will using a brick lifter to remove the hot boxes. After complete cool down of the wax tank how might it be restarted aka melting the solid block or does one drain the wax from the tank into smaller molds before cooling down in preparation for the next run? Thanks
I noticed a lot of run marks or excess wax buildup. Do you scrape the excess smooth and re-use that wax, or just leave the globs on the boxes. I like the idea of wax dipping for sure, but the time constraint does seem a bit much. Granted, one setup and do a bunch of boxes for sure. I guess as 10 minutes per three boxes for one dip, vs a coat of primer and two coats of paint, that time may be the same. So then setup is really the only big constraint. Do you have a thermostat to control the wax temp, or just a thermometer and adjust the gas?
I did try this at first but we found dipping before assembly prevents glue from adhering to the wood. Also, if you stack pieces the wax can't penetrate. Even when we put small spacers between them, we didn't get good coverage and penetration. It does take quite a bit of wax to fill the tank (300+lbs) but there is little to no waste in the process. The wood absorbs nearly 100% of the wax. It is time consuming (3 deeps,6 med) in 10 minutes but I incorporate other shop tasks while I'm dipping.
I’m new to this method when it heats too 300 degrees and if ur soaking all day do u turn off burner too bring down temperature or does it cool when dipping boxes
awesome! This a fantastic video. Where do I get the microcrystalline junk? Also, I found a source for candle scrap wax (mixed colors and scent). Y'all think using some scented colored junk is a terrible idea? seems so...
Good video - thank you for posting it! Question on the temperature - if the wax melts at 180 degrees, why does it need to be heated to 300? I'm assuming the heat causes the moisture in the wood to come out but does it need to be at 300? Would a lower temperature (low 200's) work as well? Thank you!
Hey Mathew, glad you like the vid. You are correct. The 300 degrees drives the moisture out of the wood and it gets replaced with wax. What I have found at lower temps is that you don't get good wax penetration and it tends to remain on the surface which ultimately makes your boxes slick and on very hot days that wax will bleed all over the place. But, by all means do some experimenting and see what works for you.
@@jorikphillips8131 Do you sell plans for this vat? Do you have an alternative plan for a larger vat? One with electric heat? kevin@carplaw.com. Thanks.
Awesome, thanks for sharing this video, ¿how much parafine do I need for 10 hives, or in order to know how much parafine do I have to buy, how mucho wax does a single box needs? thanks!! Best regards!
What are the dimensions of your box please? How much of each wax is needed? What was the cost and who is the supplier? With that size of tank how many BTU do you need or feel is sufficient? Any reason one could not use a laser thermometer? Does it stop boiling/foaming when it is done? Microcrystalline wax will bind better into the wood, sounds cool. Where did you get that understanding? Your cooking temp is much higher than what I have heard from others (250ish) why? Thank you!
Thank you for very informative and well produced video. Much appreciated. I share your enthusiasm for dipping as opposed to painting. Would you be willing to share tank dimensions and burner setup? I don't weld so would have fabricator make up a tank. Many thanks.
Tank was folded from 3x8 sheet of 18ga stainless. I use a 50/50 mix of paraffin ($1.70/lb) and micro-crystaline wax ($2.60/lb) from Strahl & Pitsch in NY. 220lbs total. I use 2 30,000BTU burners but one would be fine. Any thermometer will work. It doesn't stop foaming when done. The method was lifted from a research paper by the Australian Beekeepers Assoc. It can be found online. 300+ degrees seems to penetrate better than 250 for me but many use a lower temp with good results.
Looks good. But I ve three questions. 1) doesnt the wax get damaged over time and is painting needed anyway? 2) doesnt the wax attract waxmoth or shb? 3) isn t it more expensive than painting?
From what I understood of this video, the wax is completely absorbed by the wood. There is no wax layer on the outside to get damaged by weather or wax moths. Sure, it might be more expensive, but that's a matter of opinion. Some might consider it worth the cost, and paint to be inferior.-- Which is understandable because paint is just an outer layer, but the wax actually goes into the wood. Paint will wear away due to the weather, but wax inside the wood grain will last as long as the wood itself.
crazy808ish All your points are spot on. There is only the slightest film of wax that is left on the surface which is a huge help when it comes time to scrape propolis out of your boxes. Because the wax is absorbed, it protects on a cellular level. With regard to wax moths, they are not attracted to wax, they are after the proteins left in the wax from larval cocoons and pollen. The cost is on par with high quality paint and primer with much less work, much better longevity and far better protection not to mention they look much better. Moisture is the enemy! It rots wood from the inside out. My boxes are ten years old, look better than new with a really nice patina. No crazy mismatched colors. Bees and gear are valuable. I want my outyards to disappear into the surrounding landscape as much as possible.
Late to the reply, but... This wax is not the type that would be bothered by wax moths or shb larva. Bees wax or what it contains, for those concerns, not the paraffin wax.
In the terms of energy conservation, you might consider wrapping your tank in rock wool insulation and adding a second shell of stainless. Maybe a little overkill, but it would keep that wax warmer for a longer period of time with less energy while heating.
When I was a splicer doing communications work, I would occasionally have to enter a lead sealed case. Some of these cases had tags on them going back to the early 1900's (1909, 1912 etc.). These cases needed to be completely rebuilt after chipping the lead away. When exposed, the wire was found to have been boiled out with wax. The reason for this was the same as for dipping bee hives here. The wax was brought well above the boiling point of water and poured into the splice. Thus eliminating any moisture or water. This very hot wax method has been used for many purposes such as this for years. Very effective. I didn't like going into these types of splices though. I felt as if I were disturbing a time capsule. They were perfectly preserved. I can only imagine having to work with molten lead and hot wax in a confined space back then. Your dipped boxes will last a long time. Thanks for the info. and method to reduce crystalysing. Regards. And work safe.
Two reasons: I glue my boxes and it won't adhere to waxed wood. More importantly, you can't stack the pieces because the hot wax needs to circulate between them. Otherwise it won't fully penetrate the wood.
Hey crew; What have you found as the "life" experienced doing the wax dipping. I am a new- BEE and started this past March with 2 hives. I have heard form some in my area that hive maintenance is a big effort. (rotting) due to our damp location.
The ratio of paraffin to microcrystaline is 4:1 There is more info if you scroll to the very first comments on the video. I address wax sources, pricing and ratios there.
Hi, thanks for the video! I was wondering, once you finished the dipping, is there a residue of wax? What do you do with it? Considering you used 220 lbs of wax, that was used for how many boxes and lids? What would be the proportion of wax per box?
Hi I love this Idea! I am just worried about the affects the paraffin wax may have on the bees long term. it is a carcinogen to humans, but what does it do to bees? any thoughts?
Hi Nick, There is no noticeable wax residue left on the boxes after dipping so the bees won't be ingesting it. I have used this method for a decade and consistently have very favorable numbers coming out of winter year after year. Not saying it's strictly due to the wax but I don't believe it's a detriment at all to the bees. Thanks
I must ask when it comes to cost effective between wax dipping and painting? Add in the amount of time and labor and buying the two different type of wax products for dipping I wonder how this will allow the wooden products last in the harsh outdoors. For those who have under 100 hives we are already bombarded with the high cost of buying new equipment and maintaining the hives it comes down to a no profit situation.
Reading through your comments I have a few of my own preconceived thoughts you may be able to confirm, and maybe clarify to your viewers. Main assets to wax dipping your wood ware - displace moisture,, paint can adversely trap moisture between the wood and the paint allowing for the paint to peel or reject. Mold and mildew are present due to moisture, wax is permeated into the wood so rejection and mold and mildew are not probable....the same waxed wood (would)--suffice to say could be considered a logical deterrent to rot and decay. BUT the main benefit would be when you get overly aggressive with your hive tool and compromise your paint. Wax is permeated, paint is superficial, booger it and paint will trap and even wick moisture. Negative factors - Adds weight by ????? ounces or pounds to each box, Time and equipment cost need to be considered as per individual scenario. Safety was a main issue in your comments. Darwin has his definitions of survival of the fittest .. did God not give everyone a brain?? IF you are not comfortable then Do NOT do it. If you can not modify this video to a point that makes you comfortable then Do NOT do the wax dipping. My best comment is THANK s to the both of you for the video and the INFORMATION I WILL use your information to get on with my BEE KEEPING ADVENTURE.//// Thanks Again LARRY Sitzman
All your points about the attributes of wax dipping are spot on. It does not add a significant amount of weight to the boxes. Maybe a couple of ounces. Time and equipment are a consideration. I have welding skills and access to metal working equipment so I didn't have to pay for that. The wax is a reasonable expense for what you get from it. The safety of this process seems to be a concern with a lot of people. Let me assure everyone. THIS IS PERFECTLY SAFE TO DO if you exercise even a minimal amount of common sense! It will not blow up or catch on fire. I have been doing this for years and if it was going to happen, it would have by now. If this is not something you feel comfortable with, go with your instinct first. But it is not inherently dangerous in and of itself Thanks for your comments Larry
And we were told it was bad form to use plastic hives. 5 mins to construct a super and done, no painting, no petroleum waxing, no chemicals at all and in fact cheaper to start.
For everyone looking for a source for wax of all kinds, try Strahl & Pitsch at spwax.com. Ask for Alex Long and tell him what you're doing. He'll set you up with exactly what you need. The correct ratio is 4:1 paraffin to microcrystalline.
Hi why no use bee wax instead ? lower heat needed and other greener issue how much wax per box"(which type do you use) well thx for the video and for the reply ! Tom
The beeswax would start to melt on a very hot day outside. It would leach out of the box and cool down on the outside of the box and it would be sticky.
In theory I would say yes, but the chances of a fire are extremely slim compared to the chances of getting splashed with hot wax. I know people are concerned about fire with this method (and rightly so) but let me assure you that you would have to be very neglectful and let the temperature get extremely high for it to ignite and you would get all the normal signs prior to that happening. I can't stress enough how much safer this is than it looks.
hey we've been wax dipping for a year or so and are getting a black sludge at the bottom on the melter. not sure if from creosote or something else. anyone else have this and if so how do you clean it out?
+MICHAEL CONLEY I have the same problem, i have an old stainless "boat paddle" and scrape the bottom, then a cheap $1.00 nylon net to scoop up all the debris, i will drain the tank from time to time to give it a good cleaning....i am switching to 100% micro and will let you know what we find....
@@rosquitaville Hi. just like i said, heat the wax, use a flat scraper of sorts to scrape the burnt stuff on the bottom and get a cheap fine weave net and scoop it out, that is the only way i know of besides draining the tank and scraping the crud off the bottom, i buy the butterfly nets from green dollar, they are cheap and work just fine, Steve
![เจอประจำ ตอน เปิดเทอมวันแรก [EP.29]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/eFK-B836i60/mqdefault.jpg)
Thank you for a great video, mate! After watching it a few weeks ago I ordered some wax and had a dipping tab made. It is much better than just painting. It lasts longer and looks good as well.
Excellent video, packed with clear and useful information!
...JP
I just built a tank today and plan on starting to dip my new boxes for the year this winter. Can I ask you how big your tank is and how much wax did you start off with when you first got started? I'm getting ready to order some wax and was trying to get an idea of how much to start off with.
I built all my hive boxes and frames myself( Langstroth dimensions) about 40 years ago. The boxes, 50 of them were painted with latex on the outside only. Some of the boxes have needed some repair over time as well as some repainting. Although my wooden equipment was not built for eternity it has served me fairly well at a very low cost.
Great video, thanks! One question tho, I get that the wax be a barrier to weathering but will this method resist or prevent termites?
Thanks again!
Very beautiful and practical, a good example. Thank you very much! Sincerely, John (Ionel)
Thanks, I'm glad you enjoyed the video.
I dipped some old painted boxes for a friend once. It left some propolis and paint chips floating in my wax but it wasn't too bad. A good scraping would solve that. I thought it might blister the paint but it didn't. The burners are from Tejas Smokers. They are 30,000 BTU banjo style burners and have convenient little feet cast into them so the sit level on the ground. Can't say enough good things about Tejas Smokers. They are really great guys.
Any chance you can share the wax source you mentioned?
very informative! What is the consumption of wax for one box?
I have yet to start beekeeping, but have a good number of books and watched people's vids. I've seen that the bees tend to glue the boxes and lids together using propolis. Does treating the wood with Parafin / crystalline wax make it easier or harder for th propolis to stick the frames and boxes together where they meet as opposed to painting or varnishing as some people do. I've also noticed that the plastic manufactured boxes appear to be particularly prone to being glued up by propolis.
It is not like the bees paint everything together with propolis . The bees will glue the frames down to the boxes on the top edges . In the hot summers it is really not that bad it is just sticky . In the fall near the end of your inspection you need to NOT scrape it off where the boxes join that way it will help seal up the air gaps to keep the cold air out thru the winter because in the winter you DO NOT GO DEEP INTO YOUR HIVE anyway . Hope this helped a little
I used stainless because I happened to have a sheet of it and it welds very easy. Carbon steel will work just fine.
Wonder if you can use dyes to color the wax. I like a variety of color, nothing bold, too help break up the outline of a stack of boxes, or several stacks. I always worry they will get swiped or messed with and do a quick count every time I pull within sight of my hives.
thanks for posting, the post is 5years old now; are your results as expected? What size burner(s) BTUs might be recommended? I have gotten my stainless steel vat completed; a friend welded it up for me and I will using a brick lifter to remove the hot boxes. After complete cool down of the wax tank how might it be restarted aka melting the solid block or does one drain the wax from the tank into smaller molds before cooling down in preparation for the next run? Thanks
What is your source for the "micro crystalline wax and Paraffin wax"? Thanks!
Great Video mate. Very informative. Do you paint your box's after you dip them?
I noticed a lot of run marks or excess wax buildup. Do you scrape the excess smooth and re-use that wax, or just leave the globs on the boxes. I like the idea of wax dipping for sure, but the time constraint does seem a bit much. Granted, one setup and do a bunch of boxes for sure. I guess as 10 minutes per three boxes for one dip, vs a coat of primer and two coats of paint, that time may be the same. So then setup is really the only big constraint. Do you have a thermostat to control the wax temp, or just a thermometer and adjust the gas?
Very informative thank you!
I did try this at first but we found dipping before assembly prevents glue from adhering to the wood. Also, if you stack pieces the wax can't penetrate. Even when we put small spacers between them, we didn't get good coverage and penetration. It does take quite a bit of wax to fill the tank (300+lbs) but there is little to no waste in the process. The wood absorbs nearly 100% of the wax. It is time consuming (3 deeps,6 med) in 10 minutes but I incorporate other shop tasks while I'm dipping.
Could you post an update on how these boxes look after a few years weathering?
great video. thank you. what is the wax/microcrystalin ratio? thanks
I’m new to this method when it heats too 300 degrees and if ur soaking all day do u turn off burner too bring down temperature or does it cool when dipping boxes
were did you buy your wax were its blended i am building one now and having it blended would be cheaper i think thanks jon
Have you dipped old painted boxes and if so what were the results? Where did you get your burners from?
Where did you order the wax from?
Just to clarify, you are 4:1 paraffin:microcrystalline, correct? You also said 1:1 on another comment. Thanks!
awesome! This a fantastic video. Where do I get the microcrystalline junk? Also, I found a source for candle scrap wax (mixed colors and scent). Y'all think using some scented colored junk is a terrible idea? seems so...
Who is your wax provider? What do they charge for the custom made slabs? How much wax does it take?
what is your bottom plate thickness? is it the same as the sides?
Do you know the model number of your Tejas Smokers burners?
Can you give us the dimensions of your wax supper and maybe explain with a video or pics how the burner is mounted?
Why not use straight Micro crystalline instead of blending it with paraffin? Cost?
Interesting. What's about a mix of wax and propoleo ,replacing para paraffin
Do you do this dipping all year?
Hey there,
What was the additive you added to the wax?
Jono
Thank you for video! best greetings from Ukraine!
Also, the foam bubbles will be bigger the higher the temperature. At 280°F, 15 minutes the foam will be small(like on a cheap tap beer).
Good video - thank you for posting it! Question on the temperature - if the wax melts at 180 degrees, why does it need to be heated to 300? I'm assuming the heat causes the moisture in the wood to come out but does it need to be at 300? Would a lower temperature (low 200's) work as well? Thank you!
Hey Mathew, glad you like the vid. You are correct. The 300 degrees drives the moisture out of the wood and it gets replaced with wax. What I have found at lower temps is that you don't get good wax penetration and it tends to remain on the surface which ultimately makes your boxes slick and on very hot days that wax will bleed all over the place. But, by all means do some experimenting and see what works for you.
@@jorikphillips8131 Do you sell plans for this vat? Do you have an alternative plan for a larger vat? One with electric heat? kevin@carplaw.com. Thanks.
HI THERE. I'M FROM MEXICO AND I WANT TO KNOW IF THE TEMPERATURE YOU SAY (300°) ARE IN A FAREHEIT OR A CELSIUS SCALE?
Where do you wax in bulk?
Awesome, thanks for sharing this video, ¿how much parafine do I need for 10 hives, or in order to know how much parafine do I have to buy, how mucho wax does a single box needs? thanks!! Best regards!
Can the boxes be dipped after painted?
What Gauge Sheet metal did you use to make the tank?
I would love to have my new boxes dipped if possible, Where are you located?
Thank you for sharing so much information. I appreciate it
What are the dimensions of your box please?
How much of each wax is needed?
What was the cost and who is the supplier?
With that size of tank how many BTU do you need or feel is sufficient?
Any reason one could not use a laser thermometer?
Does it stop boiling/foaming when it is done?
Microcrystalline wax will bind better into the wood, sounds cool. Where did you get that understanding?
Your cooking temp is much higher than what I have heard from others (250ish) why?
Thank you!
Hi there, sorry i miss the some comments, what are the tank dimensions? Thanks.
Thank you for very informative and well produced video. Much appreciated. I share your enthusiasm for dipping as opposed to painting. Would you be willing to share tank dimensions and burner setup? I don't weld so would have fabricator make up a tank. Many thanks.
Can you please tell me where you ordered the wax, and exactly what to order? I've got about 100 boxes that I need done ASAP!
Do you make boxes I need to purchase some
THANK YOU SO MUCH!
Sir, Could you give me an idea what the investment in making the tank and the cost to initially fill with wax. Thanks
Tank was folded from 3x8 sheet of 18ga stainless.
I use a 50/50 mix of paraffin ($1.70/lb) and micro-crystaline wax ($2.60/lb) from Strahl & Pitsch in NY. 220lbs total.
I use 2 30,000BTU burners but one would be fine.
Any thermometer will work.
It doesn't stop foaming when done.
The method was lifted from a research paper by the Australian Beekeepers Assoc. It can be found online.
300+ degrees seems to penetrate better than 250 for me but many use a lower temp with good results.
What was the total cost of every thing?
is there a reason other than the cost and / or value of it, that you don't use bees wax to coat your hives?
Looks good. But I ve three questions. 1) doesnt the wax get damaged over time and is painting needed anyway? 2) doesnt the wax attract waxmoth or shb? 3) isn t it more expensive than painting?
From what I understood of this video, the wax is completely absorbed by the wood. There is no wax layer on the outside to get damaged by weather or wax moths. Sure, it might be more expensive, but that's a matter of opinion. Some might consider it worth the cost, and paint to be inferior.-- Which is understandable because paint is just an outer layer, but the wax actually goes into the wood. Paint will wear away due to the weather, but wax inside the wood grain will last as long as the wood itself.
crazy808ish All your points are spot on. There is only the slightest film of wax that is left on the surface which is a huge help when it comes time to scrape propolis out of your boxes. Because the wax is absorbed, it protects on a cellular level. With regard to wax moths, they are not attracted to wax, they are after the proteins left in the wax from larval cocoons and pollen. The cost is on par with high quality paint and primer with much less work, much better longevity and far better protection not to mention they look much better. Moisture is the enemy! It rots wood from the inside out. My boxes are ten years old, look better than new with a really nice patina. No crazy mismatched colors. Bees and gear are valuable. I want my outyards to disappear into the surrounding landscape as much as possible.
Late to the reply, but...
This wax is not the type that would be bothered by wax moths or shb larva. Bees wax or what it contains, for those concerns, not the paraffin wax.
Have you considered a lower temp bath to cool the cooked boxes in so more wax is sucked into the wood as it cools? OR do you think it is unnecessary?
Instead of it taking 12-15 minutes per box, it would take about 4 hours for it to cool down.
nice, good system.
we use another way to protect the hives, burning them. Charred wood is impermeable.
greetings
BrescaAudiovisual tell us more about ur technique. Love to hear about it. Thanks
where did you get the wax!!!!!!
Isn't the touch feeling wax after deeping?
Nice. Where are you located? Anywhere near the S.F. bay area? Would you be willing to dip a pine box for me?
In the terms of energy conservation, you might consider wrapping your tank in rock wool insulation and adding a second shell of stainless. Maybe a little overkill, but it would keep that wax warmer for a longer period of time with less energy while heating.
Thousands of boxes w/o incident but hey... one man's blow torch is another man's paint brush. You have to be comfortable to be safe.
When I was a splicer doing communications work, I would occasionally have to enter a lead sealed case. Some of these cases had tags on them going back to the early 1900's (1909, 1912 etc.). These cases needed to be completely rebuilt after chipping the lead away. When exposed, the wire was found to have been boiled out with wax. The reason for this was the same as for dipping bee hives here. The wax was brought well above the boiling point of water and poured into the splice. Thus eliminating any moisture or water. This very hot wax method has been used for many purposes such as this for years. Very effective. I didn't like going into these types of splices though. I felt as if I were disturbing a time capsule. They were perfectly preserved. I can only imagine having to work with molten lead and hot wax in a confined space back then. Your dipped boxes will last a long time. Thanks for the info. and method to reduce crystalysing. Regards. And work safe.
Two reasons:
I glue my boxes and it won't adhere to waxed wood.
More importantly, you can't stack the pieces because the hot wax needs to circulate between them. Otherwise it won't fully penetrate the wood.
Hey crew;
What have you found as the "life" experienced doing the wax dipping.
I am a new- BEE and started this past March with 2 hives. I have heard form some in my area that hive maintenance is a big effort. (rotting) due to our damp location.
Hi James,
My oldest dipped boxes are 7or 8 years old now and going strong. They do darken a bit with time but I really like that natural patina.
The ratio of paraffin to microcrystaline is 4:1
There is more info if you scroll to the very first comments on the video. I address wax sources, pricing and ratios there.
I know this is an old post, but you said 1:1 ratio below, and here you're saying 4:1? I see 1:1 everywhere else. Thanks!
do you just dip once? not a second wet dip?
Only waxed hive I tried the girls loved to eat it. They made holes, in corners, all over. Finally moved them to a ceder box.
Where are you getting the wax
Wonder how induction cook tops would work as far as safety and heat source.
Same question
Must have been that left turn at Albuquerque.
Hi, thanks for the video!
I was wondering, once you finished the dipping, is there a residue of wax? What do you do with it?
Considering you used 220 lbs of wax, that was used for how many boxes and lids? What would be the proportion of wax per box?
Hi I love this Idea! I am just worried about the affects the paraffin wax may have on the bees long term. it is a carcinogen to humans, but what does it do to bees? any thoughts?
Hi Nick,
There is no noticeable wax residue left on the boxes after dipping so the bees won't be ingesting it. I have used this method for a decade and consistently have very favorable numbers coming out of winter year after year. Not saying it's strictly due to the wax but I don't believe it's a detriment at all to the bees.
Thanks
I must ask when it comes to cost effective between wax dipping and painting? Add in the amount of time and labor and buying the two different type of wax products for dipping I wonder how this will allow the wooden products last in the harsh outdoors. For those who have under 100 hives we are already bombarded with the high cost of buying new equipment and maintaining the hives it comes down to a no profit situation.
Reading through your comments I have a few of my own preconceived thoughts you may be able to confirm, and maybe clarify to your viewers. Main assets to wax dipping your wood ware - displace moisture,, paint can adversely trap moisture between the wood and the paint allowing for the paint to peel or reject. Mold and mildew are present due to moisture, wax is permeated into the wood so rejection and mold and mildew are not probable....the same waxed wood (would)--suffice to say could be considered a logical deterrent to rot and decay. BUT the main benefit would be when you get overly aggressive with your hive tool and compromise your paint. Wax is permeated, paint is superficial, booger it and paint will trap and even wick moisture. Negative factors - Adds weight by ????? ounces or pounds to each box, Time and equipment cost need to be considered as per individual scenario. Safety was a main issue in your comments. Darwin has his definitions of survival of the fittest .. did God not give everyone a brain?? IF you are not comfortable then Do NOT do it. If you can not modify this video to a point that makes you comfortable then Do NOT do the wax dipping. My best comment is THANK s to the both of you for the video and the INFORMATION I WILL use your information to get on with my BEE KEEPING ADVENTURE.//// Thanks Again LARRY Sitzman
All your points about the attributes of wax dipping are spot on. It does not add a significant amount of weight to the boxes. Maybe a couple of ounces.
Time and equipment are a consideration. I have welding skills and access to metal working equipment so I didn't have to pay for that. The wax is a reasonable expense for what you get from it.
The safety of this process seems to be a concern with a lot of people. Let me assure everyone. THIS IS PERFECTLY SAFE TO DO if you exercise even a minimal amount of common sense! It will not blow up or catch on fire. I have been doing this for years and if it was going to happen, it would have by now. If this is not something you feel comfortable with, go with your instinct first. But it is not inherently dangerous in and of itself
Thanks for your comments Larry
*Common Sense* being the *Key* though Megan. Not everyone, or even a majority of people in the world have it. Not lately anyway. Sad to say.
Why stainless, it is mandatory?
And we were told it was bad form to use plastic hives. 5 mins to construct a super and done, no painting, no petroleum waxing, no chemicals at all and in fact cheaper to start.
are you an Iron Worker?
For everyone looking for a source for wax of all kinds, try Strahl & Pitsch at spwax.com. Ask for Alex Long and tell him what you're doing. He'll set you up with exactly what you need. The correct ratio is 4:1 paraffin to microcrystalline.
Thank you. looked them up and sent an email. Thanks for the sourcing info, it's one of the most important parts of any DIY video.
can bees wax be used?
I agree, but that wouldn't be a very fun and interesting video.
is it organik?
do you have a website? do you sell bees? i am interested in getting a colony from the 50 year old house genetics
does this process attract wax moths?
Just a question here...what kind of wax is already in the boiler when you start doing this vidoe? Thanks for sharing!
75% 140MP paraffin and 25% micro crystalline
@@jorikjustjorik4710 Thank you!
if you build your own boxes why not dip them before you assemble the sides?
I was always told paint em then dip em. Cypress gear always lasted fine, let some pine gear get wet, done in a year
The walls are 18 gauge and the bottom is 3/16
Hi
why no use bee wax instead ?
lower heat needed and other greener issue
how much wax per box"(which type do you use)
well thx for the video and for the reply !
Tom
The beeswax would start to melt on a very hot day outside. It would leach out of the box and cool down on the outside of the box and it would be sticky.
amazing idea , waw
Ah exposed feet, perfect for handling hot wax
1:29 Yeah always wear long sleeves, goggles, and of course a real nice pair of open-air sandals.
Yup, like I always say, safety third ;-)
Would have been nice if you would have provided links here for your wax supplier.
laserguy and the ratio mix
Try igiwax.com
Couldn't you just wax the parts of the boxes, then piece them together afterwards? Seems like you'd get a lot more done quickly that way.
Aren't long sleeves more capable of catching fire during an unintended fire of the heated wax?
In theory I would say yes, but the chances of a fire are extremely slim compared to the chances of getting splashed with hot wax. I know people are concerned about fire with this method (and rightly so) but let me assure you that you would have to be very neglectful and let the temperature get extremely high for it to ignite and you would get all the normal signs prior to that happening. I can't stress enough how much safer this is than it looks.
it will be ok
Looks like it softens up the glue joints also
We use Titebond III and it only gets soft when it's hot. It hardens right back up as it cools down.
Do you sell hives
hey we've been wax dipping for a year or so and are getting a black sludge at the bottom on the melter. not sure if from creosote or something else.
anyone else have this and if so how do you clean it out?
+MICHAEL CONLEY I have the same problem, i have an old stainless "boat paddle" and scrape the bottom, then a cheap $1.00 nylon net to scoop up all the debris, i will drain the tank from time to time to give it a good cleaning....i am switching to 100% micro and will let you know what we find....
Reliable Prepper - Technician775 I’m curious. What did you find?
@@technician775 I am curious too
@@rosquitaville Hi. just like i said, heat the wax, use a flat scraper of sorts to scrape the burnt stuff on the bottom and get a cheap fine weave net and scoop it out, that is the only way i know of besides draining the tank and scraping the crud off the bottom, i buy the butterfly nets from green dollar, they are cheap and work just fine, Steve
I got here from Skyrim.. Must have been the Mead..
300 refers to degrees farenheit