@48:22 Can you apply some grease on the attaching bolts (not on threads for nuts (on threads I'll put Blue Threadlocker), on that cylindrical part which goes inside of the knuckle)? We are in Texas, but after I removed those bolts, they were all slightly covered w/rust, especially by the head of the bolt. And I removed them before not longer then 1.5 years ago. I cleaned them, painted the heads. The rest of the bolt I wiped out w/PB Blaster, installed, but forgot to apply a bit of grease on them as planned before, like green Lucas, or Green 101 (they both have NLGI #2). I'm in doubts, if you are actually are supposed to apply that grease there, maybe it will leak on the threads and it could cause some problems, like it will effect that threadlocker or smth. I would appreciate any opinion on this matter. Thank you for this so great film.
Personally, I have never added any grease to these bolts. I live where salt and other chemicals are used heavily in the winter and haven't ever had one so corroded that caused an issue. Not saying it isn't possible, just haven't encountered one myself. If the grease would somehow get in contact with the thread lock I would expect that it would ruin the bond it creates. I think cleaning with a wire wheel or brush and a light coat of anti-seize or fluid film or your grease on the shank away from the threads would be fine but not needed.
@aidantimko3282 Not likely. Probably would break the knuckle in the process. A pick, torch, and possibly a small punch and hammer with lots of penetrant should be able to get the job done, but it will take some time and patience. It can be a challenge if it's super bad. Best of luck!
The most confusing part for me in this process is how much do you need to press a hub into the knuckle bearing. I pressed the hub (I have Harbor Fright Press), seems like I could go further, but afraid to break smth. That advice Chris Fix gives in his film about a flat screwdriver is not quite clear for me (is it between the plane of the hub and knuckle surface or between the head of those bolts on the hub and the knuckle. Maybe it can be determined by looking from the side of the knuckle (where the snap ring is). Not sure if the work is done correctly and though I'll do a research online of course, but i would appreciate any opinion on this matter. Thank you for the very informative film in all other aspects.
The bearing should bottom out in the knuckle. If your HF press is a manual press you will be able to feel the difference when you hit bottom. It will be noticeably harder to pump the press jack. If you got the first one in far enough to get the snap ring in you made it pretty much all the way and are close enough. The snap ring groove is hidden until the bearing is almost bottomed out. Being able to get a snap ring in, is the most important part. That keeps the bearing in place if it does somehow start to move. Hope that helps clear up that part of it for you. Good luck with your repairs!
@@ScanMan79 Thank you for the explanations on the bearing, my neighbour advised me on that, but good to know additional confirmation on the technique. I placed the snap ring into the slot and even tried if it rotates free. it does. But where I'm not quite sure is a hub into the bearing (not bearing into the knuckle). How to know if it is enough to press the knuckle onto the hub (I placed the hub on the bottom, then knuckle then a special plate from the set to press without the actual press. That plate clears the inner diameter of the bushing, but smaller than outer one. And pressed like that. Seems like everything is fine, hub rotates on the knuckle, but how to know on this part of the work if I pressed enough? Actually what will happen if you overpress it or underpress it. I couldn't find the clear answer to those questions in any film I saw on the subject (about 10 films).
What lubricant did you put inside of the bearing, and how to remove the rust from the knuckle? Is it recommended to spray that knuckle with something rust protective?
The bearings are a sealed bearing and come pregreased from the factory. As for the rust, a wire wheel on a drill or a wire brush should get the worst of it. Most people don't worry about rust preventative on the knuckle, but if you'd like the extra peace of mind there are a few options to consider. You could clean all the rust off with either a chemical rust remover or wire wheel and then give it a nice coat of paint. If you don't want to put that much time and effort into it, you could coat it with something like Fluid Film that will put a protective coating on it, but it will need to be reapplied once a year for the best protection. I hope that helps.
@@ScanMan79 I forgot to double check again about a lubricant. I mean not inside of the bearing itself , but on the inner surface of it, that one that is in contact with the hub. i put some bearing grease, but saw someone in another film just sprayed that surface (before pressing in) with WD-40. I need to do another side and in general would be good to know about the proper lubricant. Thank you.
@@olenaerhardt7725 I personally use a bit of anti-seize. Any lube will be fine for the assembly where you only need it to get the bearing pressed in, but that stuff will break down and wear off over time and if/when you need to replace it again, you could find yourself having more trouble than you bargained for if/when the bearing gets rusted in place. I've had bearings take in excess of 70 thousand PSI on a press (not the one in my video) to get the rust to break free. Which is NEVER a good thing. At those pressures, you can easily destroy the hub itself. Any thick grease would be better than nothing, but if you can get some anti-seize, that would be what I would suggest. Especially if you live where they salt the roads in the winter.
@@ScanMan79 Thank you for the replay and sharing such an interesting story about a huge pressure applied. I live in TX, so no salt on the roads. The car is 130 mi and I removed the bearing with no difficulty (with a slide hummer, since was not sure at that type if I do it w/HF press). I have anti-seize, so maybe will do on another side, though think that the antisymmetry might give some negative impact on driving. Probably I'll do with the dark red grease the second one and then spray everything inside w/ Rust protective Film I have. Actually if to place the corresponding part (bushing or hub) into the freezer it is possible to press everything without any lubricant, but I understand now that a lubricant is needed for the rust protection.
Yes...they use spin-on auto trans. filters for easy changes, then press in the front bearings. Go figure. I guess I shouldn't complain because I've gotten 209K out of my SL2 so far and still have the original clutch, but those bearing replacements are getting old. It's almost worth your while to have an extra knuckle for each side on hand to expedite swap-outs. If you don't have a press, that is.
It can be a bit tricky to do. The way I do it, is I start it at one end of the ring and slowly work it down and around until it snaps in the slot. Sometimes it can be helpful to use something like a needle nose plier to hold the opposite end of the ring to help bend it to get it started. Or a small screwdriver. Just be very careful that it doesn't slip cause it can hurt you or be hard to find if it takes off on you. I hope that helps.
Special needle nose pliers 9" (I couldn't do it wit 7"). It is only for snap rings with 2 holes. There are some snap rings without those holes (I think it is outdated type), on that type I don't know, just screwdriver I guess.
Interesting video showing complete procedure, mostly unedited. For a better overview here is a breakdown. 2:52 PART 1: Get access to the wheel hub and knuckle 6:31 PART 2: Remove the knuckle (with hub and bearing still in it) 14:20 PART 3: Replace the old bearing (done with a workshop press) 41:52 PART 4: Re-install the knuckle assembly on the car IN DETAIL: 1: *Getting access to the wheel hub and knuckle* a) 2:52 Cranking up the car b) 3:49 Removing the wheel c) 4:29 Removing brake calliper assembly in one piece d) 6:10 Removing the rotor (aka brake disc) 2: *Removing the knuckle* (with hub and bearing still in it) a) 6:31 Remove cotter pin from tie rod nut b) 7:22 Remove tie rod nut c) 8:15 Remove the two front strut mounting bolts d) 9:17 Remove driveshaft nut (30mm) e) 9:29 Loosen driveshaft from knuckle f) Separate knuckle from lower control arm: 9:53 Remove cotter pin 10:54 Remove bolt (using 18mm wrench) 13:50 Force the control arm down 13:53 Knuckle with hub is finally off 3: *Replacing the old bearing* (done with a workshop press) a) 14:20 Remove retaining ring (aka snap ring) on the inside of the knuckle b) 19:17 Setting up the knuckle under the press c) 19:51 Pressing out the OLD hub first (from the inside of the knuckle outwards) d) 20:42 Hub is out e) 21:17 Setting up the knuckle under the press again f) 22:00 Pressing out the OLD bearing (from the outside of the knuckle inwards) g) 22:46 Bearing breaks loose h) 23:14 Bearing is out i) 26:18 Applying anti-seize on the inside of the knuckle j) 27:37 Setting up the knuckle under the press again k) 29:43 Pressing the NEW bearing into the knuckle (from the inside of the knuckle outwards) l) 30:37 Bearing is almost in m) 31:32 Bearing is seated n) 33:47 Placing new snap ring on the inside of the knuckle o) 37:16 Setting up the knuckle under the press again p) 38:15 Pressing the NEW hub into the new bearing inside the knuckle q) 40:27 Hub is almost in r) 40:56 Hub is seated 4: *Re-installing the knuckle assembly on the car* a) 41:52 Place knuckle on ball joint of lower control arm and loosely screw its nut b) 42:59 Insert driveshaft into knuckle c) 43:39 Re-attach tie rod and tighten its nut d) 45:12 Tighten the lower control arm nut e) 46:39 Install new cotter pins f) 47:47 Re-seat the front strut using a large screw driver as a lever g) 48:20 Re-install front strut mounting bolts and tighten them h) 49:23 Re-install driveshaft nut i) 50:12 Re-install brake disc and brake calliper assembly _DONE!_
What symptoms were you having? My car has a noticeable rhythmic humming noise. It is most pronounced from 45-60 MPH. I don't really notice it much below 45 MPH and I don't drive much over 60MPH. But is SEEMS to smooth out going faster than 60 MPH. The noise SEEMs to be loudest from the driver side front, but that is my perception. I bought new good tires all around and the problem still persists. I made a video of the noise, if you listen, you can hear the sound. th-cam.com/video/x3ewhw9HBbk/w-d-xo.html I jacked up the front of the car and grabbed the wheels, and checked for any play and I did not feel any. Both of them spin freely front and backwards about the same. My initial guess is that I have a driver side bad wheel bearing? It might be on the very early stages of going out?
Hello! Yes I agree with you. Sounds like a wheel bearing that has gone dry and starting to go out. One thing you can do to help confirm this is find a quiet road that you can get up to speed and swerve left to right a few times. You should hear a change in the sound in one direction or the other. If it is the Left side (driver) then it should get louder as you swerve to the right and will become quieter as you swerve back to the left. This happens because you are loading the wheel with more weight as you turn. So as you swerve to the right you load the left tire with more weight and vice versa in the other direction. Just be sure to be safe and not in traffic when doing this, which should go without saying. :) Good luck and thanks for watching.
Im doing this tomorrow. Wish me luck! 100k 1997 sc2
Best of luck!
@@ScanMan79 what size is dhe hub nut? To take off the bearing?
@@deezsquuezeorg30mm. It’s best to go with a 6 point deep socket.
@48:22 Can you apply some grease on the attaching bolts (not on threads for nuts (on threads I'll put Blue Threadlocker), on that cylindrical part which goes inside of the knuckle)? We are in Texas, but after I removed those bolts, they were all slightly covered w/rust, especially by the head of the bolt. And I removed them before not longer then 1.5 years ago. I cleaned them, painted the heads. The rest of the bolt I wiped out w/PB Blaster, installed, but forgot to apply a bit of grease on them as planned before, like green Lucas, or Green 101 (they both have NLGI #2). I'm in doubts, if you are actually are supposed to apply that grease there, maybe it will leak on the threads and it could cause some problems, like it will effect that threadlocker or smth. I would appreciate any opinion on this matter. Thank you for this so great film.
Personally, I have never added any grease to these bolts. I live where salt and other chemicals are used heavily in the winter and haven't ever had one so corroded that caused an issue. Not saying it isn't possible, just haven't encountered one myself. If the grease would somehow get in contact with the thread lock I would expect that it would ruin the bond it creates. I think cleaning with a wire wheel or brush and a light coat of anti-seize or fluid film or your grease on the shank away from the threads would be fine but not needed.
@@ScanMan79 Thank you very much. Yes, I'd better leave how it is done. There is also some layer of PB Blaster. Thank you again.
Could I press it out without taking the snap ring off? Mines rusted on
@aidantimko3282 Not likely. Probably would break the knuckle in the process. A pick, torch, and possibly a small punch and hammer with lots of penetrant should be able to get the job done, but it will take some time and patience. It can be a challenge if it's super bad. Best of luck!
@@ScanMan79 thanks, I'll see what I can do
The most confusing part for me in this process is how much do you need to press a hub into the knuckle bearing. I pressed the hub (I have Harbor Fright Press), seems like I could go further, but afraid to break smth. That advice Chris Fix gives in his film about a flat screwdriver is not quite clear for me (is it between the plane of the hub and knuckle surface or between the head of those bolts on the hub and the knuckle. Maybe it can be determined by looking from the side of the knuckle (where the snap ring is). Not sure if the work is done correctly and though I'll do a research online of course, but i would appreciate any opinion on this matter. Thank you for the very informative film in all other aspects.
The bearing should bottom out in the knuckle. If your HF press is a manual press you will be able to feel the difference when you hit bottom. It will be noticeably harder to pump the press jack. If you got the first one in far enough to get the snap ring in you made it pretty much all the way and are close enough. The snap ring groove is hidden until the bearing is almost bottomed out. Being able to get a snap ring in, is the most important part. That keeps the bearing in place if it does somehow start to move. Hope that helps clear up that part of it for you. Good luck with your repairs!
@@ScanMan79 Thank you for the explanations on the bearing, my neighbour advised me on that, but good to know additional confirmation on the technique. I placed the snap ring into the slot and even tried if it rotates free. it does. But where I'm not quite sure is a hub into the bearing (not bearing into the knuckle). How to know if it is enough to press the knuckle onto the hub (I placed the hub on the bottom, then knuckle then a special plate from the set to press without the actual press. That plate clears the inner diameter of the bushing, but smaller than outer one. And pressed like that. Seems like everything is fine, hub rotates on the knuckle, but how to know on this part of the work if I pressed enough? Actually what will happen if you overpress it or underpress it. I couldn't find the clear answer to those questions in any film I saw on the subject (about 10 films).
What size socket are you using to remove the axle bolt?
I used a 30mm socket.
p.s. the torque spec for the hub nut is 142-145 ft-lb. depending on which manual you read. Not that it has helped my bearings last any longer.
What lubricant did you put inside of the bearing, and how to remove the rust from the knuckle? Is it recommended to spray that knuckle with something rust protective?
The bearings are a sealed bearing and come pregreased from the factory. As for the rust, a wire wheel on a drill or a wire brush should get the worst of it. Most people don't worry about rust preventative on the knuckle, but if you'd like the extra peace of mind there are a few options to consider. You could clean all the rust off with either a chemical rust remover or wire wheel and then give it a nice coat of paint. If you don't want to put that much time and effort into it, you could coat it with something like Fluid Film that will put a protective coating on it, but it will need to be reapplied once a year for the best protection. I hope that helps.
@@ScanMan79 Thank you very much, it was very helpful to know. I'll do that variant without paint, but with a protective film.
@@ScanMan79 I forgot to double check again about a lubricant. I mean not inside of the bearing itself , but on the inner surface of it, that one that is in contact with the hub. i put some bearing grease, but saw someone in another film just sprayed that surface (before pressing in) with WD-40. I need to do another side and in general would be good to know about the proper lubricant. Thank you.
@@olenaerhardt7725 I personally use a bit of anti-seize. Any lube will be fine for the assembly where you only need it to get the bearing pressed in, but that stuff will break down and wear off over time and if/when you need to replace it again, you could find yourself having more trouble than you bargained for if/when the bearing gets rusted in place. I've had bearings take in excess of 70 thousand PSI on a press (not the one in my video) to get the rust to break free. Which is NEVER a good thing. At those pressures, you can easily destroy the hub itself. Any thick grease would be better than nothing, but if you can get some anti-seize, that would be what I would suggest. Especially if you live where they salt the roads in the winter.
@@ScanMan79 Thank you for the replay and sharing such an interesting story about a huge pressure applied. I live in TX, so no salt on the roads. The car is 130 mi and I removed the bearing with no difficulty (with a slide hummer, since was not sure at that type if I do it w/HF press). I have anti-seize, so maybe will do on another side, though think that the antisymmetry might give some negative impact on driving. Probably I'll do with the dark red grease the second one and then spray everything inside w/ Rust protective Film I have. Actually if to place the corresponding part (bushing or hub) into the freezer it is possible to press everything without any lubricant, but I understand now that a lubricant is needed for the rust protection.
Yes...they use spin-on auto trans. filters for easy changes, then press in the front bearings. Go figure. I guess I shouldn't complain because I've gotten 209K out of my SL2 so far and still have the original clutch, but those bearing replacements are getting old. It's almost worth your while to have an extra knuckle for each side on hand to expedite swap-outs. If you don't have a press, that is.
I agree! I much prefer the hub assembly method although it does cost a fair bit more, but offset in time savings.
I’ve only had to do a couple of bearing changes in 28 years. Not sure what you’re doing wrong. Lol
How did you get the snap ring in? I cant find a decent video on getting a snap ring with no holes installed
It can be a bit tricky to do. The way I do it, is I start it at one end of the ring and slowly work it down and around until it snaps in the slot. Sometimes it can be helpful to use something like a needle nose plier to hold the opposite end of the ring to help bend it to get it started. Or a small screwdriver. Just be very careful that it doesn't slip cause it can hurt you or be hard to find if it takes off on you. I hope that helps.
Special needle nose pliers 9" (I couldn't do it wit 7"). It is only for snap rings with 2 holes. There are some snap rings without those holes (I think it is outdated type), on that type I don't know, just screwdriver I guess.
Interesting video showing complete procedure, mostly unedited. For a better overview here is a breakdown.
2:52 PART 1: Get access to the wheel hub and knuckle
6:31 PART 2: Remove the knuckle (with hub and bearing still in it)
14:20 PART 3: Replace the old bearing (done with a workshop press)
41:52 PART 4: Re-install the knuckle assembly on the car
IN DETAIL:
1: *Getting access to the wheel hub and knuckle*
a) 2:52 Cranking up the car
b) 3:49 Removing the wheel
c) 4:29 Removing brake calliper assembly in one piece
d) 6:10 Removing the rotor (aka brake disc)
2: *Removing the knuckle* (with hub and bearing still in it)
a) 6:31 Remove cotter pin from tie rod nut
b) 7:22 Remove tie rod nut
c) 8:15 Remove the two front strut mounting bolts
d) 9:17 Remove driveshaft nut (30mm)
e) 9:29 Loosen driveshaft from knuckle
f) Separate knuckle from lower control arm:
9:53 Remove cotter pin
10:54 Remove bolt (using 18mm wrench)
13:50 Force the control arm down
13:53 Knuckle with hub is finally off
3: *Replacing the old bearing* (done with a workshop press)
a) 14:20 Remove retaining ring (aka snap ring) on the inside of the knuckle
b) 19:17 Setting up the knuckle under the press
c) 19:51 Pressing out the OLD hub first (from the inside of the knuckle outwards)
d) 20:42 Hub is out
e) 21:17 Setting up the knuckle under the press again
f) 22:00 Pressing out the OLD bearing (from the outside of the knuckle inwards)
g) 22:46 Bearing breaks loose
h) 23:14 Bearing is out
i) 26:18 Applying anti-seize on the inside of the knuckle
j) 27:37 Setting up the knuckle under the press again
k) 29:43 Pressing the NEW bearing into the knuckle (from the inside of the knuckle outwards)
l) 30:37 Bearing is almost in
m) 31:32 Bearing is seated
n) 33:47 Placing new snap ring on the inside of the knuckle
o) 37:16 Setting up the knuckle under the press again
p) 38:15 Pressing the NEW hub into the new bearing inside the knuckle
q) 40:27 Hub is almost in
r) 40:56 Hub is seated
4: *Re-installing the knuckle assembly on the car*
a) 41:52 Place knuckle on ball joint of lower control arm and loosely screw its nut
b) 42:59 Insert driveshaft into knuckle
c) 43:39 Re-attach tie rod and tighten its nut
d) 45:12 Tighten the lower control arm nut
e) 46:39 Install new cotter pins
f) 47:47 Re-seat the front strut using a large screw driver as a lever
g) 48:20 Re-install front strut mounting bolts and tighten them
h) 49:23 Re-install driveshaft nut
i) 50:12 Re-install brake disc and brake calliper assembly
_DONE!_
Thanks for doing this!
great and complete video, thanks!!!
You're welcome! Glad you found it helpful.
you r a life saver
What symptoms were you having? My car has a noticeable rhythmic humming noise.
It is most pronounced from 45-60 MPH. I don't really notice it much below 45 MPH and I don't drive much over 60MPH. But is SEEMS to smooth out going faster than 60 MPH. The noise SEEMs to be loudest from the driver side front, but that is my perception. I bought new good tires all around and the problem still persists. I made a video of the noise, if you listen, you can hear the sound. th-cam.com/video/x3ewhw9HBbk/w-d-xo.html
I jacked up the front of the car and grabbed the wheels, and checked for any play and I did not feel any. Both of them spin freely front and backwards about the same.
My initial guess is that I have a driver side bad wheel bearing? It might be on the very early stages of going out?
Hello! Yes I agree with you. Sounds like a wheel bearing that has gone dry and starting to go out. One thing you can do to help confirm this is find a quiet road that you can get up to speed and swerve left to right a few times. You should hear a change in the sound in one direction or the other. If it is the Left side (driver) then it should get louder as you swerve to the right and will become quieter as you swerve back to the left. This happens because you are loading the wheel with more weight as you turn. So as you swerve to the right you load the left tire with more weight and vice versa in the other direction. Just be sure to be safe and not in traffic when doing this, which should go without saying. :) Good luck and thanks for watching.
W D 40.
What size socket are you using to push the bearing out?
Curtis Hoover I believe it was a 36mm impact. Thanks for watching.