@@SomeOne_86 my car isn't in typical condition. It already had a cai but it was so bad you could remove it by hand. And it had long tubes on the exhaust. You couldn't hear the intake if you wanted to. I've made it quieter since then.
my cold air intake was totally worth it for the look and sound, but besides the mpg boost there is not much performance gain to be had unless you are boosted
Don’t forget that there are 2 types of intercoolers, “air to air” and “water to air”. Basically “air to air” is the type you see sticking out of the front end and are usually quite thick and works like the name suggests, the “intake air” passes through the intercooler and gets cooled down by air going through it. Water to air intercoolers are usually a slightly more complicated set up, basically you use water to cool down the “intake air”, most set ups use a “heat exchanger” (a radiator of sorts) which is “plumed in” (or connected) to the intercooler. But water to air can also be a “ice box” set up. Water to air is a pretty efficient system and usually takes up less room than a air to air set up.
@@ThePower1037 well yeah, off course, the less parts in a system, the cheaper and less complicated it becomes. However not all engine bays have the space for thick charge air piping and big air to air intercooler which has to be mounted where it get a sufficient amount of air flow, but also preferably not too far from the Turbo. In that aspect water to air is far superior as coolant hoses are usually thinner and easier to plum up, plus the heat exchanger tends to be thinner than air to air intercoolers. Both have their pros and cons, both are useful.
One thing I noticed with the cold air intake is how fast the turbo builds boost compared to on the stock box. It's not making any more power, but it feels much quicker because of that.
im pretty sure its just engine response. its not crazy though, youre not getting new power i guess you can say. this got proven to me by doing engine compression testing (for NA high compression will definitely squeeze out more power that the engine could've had brand new). a small engine does actually struggle more to get air with a stock box intake.
0:55 Throttle response, while not being extra power, is a very, very valid thing to want in your build. Like, an NA with poor throttle response can straight up be worse than a turbo'd engine with really good throttle response. 3:30 Pretty much every car already has a cold air intake. A true cold air intake is giving it access to proper airflow, like by positioning it behind a bumper or headlight vent. Or out your hood. Or any other alternative you can think of, the sky is the limit.
Very valid. If the car makes me feel like it’s fun to drive, that’s all I need. The cold air intake thing seemed weird to me too because most cars take in air from the bumper or the hood. My current civic came with a “cold air intake” which pulls air in from the engine bay, which isn’t cold. And the hood is stock. I don’t see how that provides any benefit over a stock air intake, which takes in colder air from outside the engine bay
the way I see it, for all of this, is that there's no reason to cheap out on it. The fake/cheap stuff can actually be more dangerous than the real thing. In my opinion, there's no reason to buy the cheap thing and say you'll buy the real thing when you have the money. save the money now and buy the real thing right off the bat.
@@AdventureShock Sure, but often times cheap = worse, if you want to get cheap and good then you must spend plenty of time researching, waiting for offers and stuff like that, also best way to cheap out is making everything you can by yourself, labor is sometimes the most expensive so if you are willing to learn and have plenty of time then it's a really good option
Cheap doesn’t mean bad. Anyone can spend money. I can’t stand bought not built people they know nothing just get in think they can drive but any talents usually just the money they dropped holding them up like a crutch and it won’t last.
@@christopherjohnston6343 I agree. Burn cheap also can perform just as well or better depending on who’s doing work and application especially. And “cheap” is different to many people. So many say something’s cheap and it’s price is ridiculous and I’d absolutely never pay the price for whatever the product is. Especially when I can fabricate and make so much stuff better then people waste money on especially items that cost manufacturers a dollar and sell for 20. It’s amazing how much people will pay for dollar in material garbage.
A cold air intake, or similar tube+filter setup is also a great maintenance mod. The stock tubing and airbox take up so much space that you need to remove them all the time to swap out parts/do some maintenance, so having a simpler setup makes it a lot easier.
I have a short ram on my car, but it’s mainly for the sound it produces. Make the intake hella loud, and sounds great. There’s no performance gain from the butt dyno, but it’s still a cheap $100 way to make your car sound awesome.
Still an open cai makes hella noise and i made mine with a simple cheap cone filter and a bit of piping, now my intake does not go over the exhaust headers and also sounds insane at wot (for a small 1.4), only costing like 25 bucks
As a teenager who likes loud exhaust, I don’t do it for “attention” or “daddy issues” I simply like hearing the car/truck I am driving, and I would put glass packed exhaust/high flow mufflers to give it more sound depth, I just wanted to say that lol
Glass packs sound absolutely amazing on any V8 car and are dirt cheap. Just don't be an A-hole and use the ones that are like 4 inches long that hardly tone down anything lol 😆
On lowering springs, I lowered my Mercedes 190E couple of years ago with Eibach pro kit springs. Everything was fine, apart from the fact there was this weird creeking noise when I turned the wheel while parking. After checking everything and replacing every part there was to replace with suspension and steering, finally I found the issue. The steering drop link bushings on the passenger side became stressed when I lowered the springs, since this cause all the steering angles to change. TL;DR, if you lower your ride height, you must then also replace or re-adjust all the steering components.
I drive a Mk2 Golf and I was thinking about using lowered springs and even though I will be replacing entire suspension system and many other parts including steering hardware, I am glad you mentioned this as I want the car to feel as nice as it can get.
I never had that issue with mine. I used their 2 inch lowering springs for my 90 Toyota Celica Gt back when I was younger. It made a huge difference in the way that car handled. It wasn't til I rode in that car afterwards that I finally understood what, cornering like its on rails meant.
@@ExAnimoPortugalthat sounds like it specifically applies to certain type of cars then, or age is a factor too then. Cos idk if this is applicable to my newer car
I'm in the UK, many years ago I had a Triumph Dolomite 1850. When the stock exhaust rusted away (They did back in the 1970s. I replaced it with a properly designed rally exhaust. The result was more responsive throttle and an improvement in fuel economy from an average of 30mpg to around 36mpg. Apart from that the engine, carbs, air filters were stock.
Hence why I stopped calling the one I talk about "an electric Supercharger" You hear me say, "This 'intake fan' is an insult to actual electric superchargers". I know real ones exist, they're great and useful. I'm obviously just gonna call this scam ass piece an intake fan instead.
@@BladedAngel You said that the fan was an “insult to actual electric superchargers like the ones on electric cars” But they have actually made an electric supercharger for a gas engine which actually makes substantial gains in horsepower! And as for the CAI they can actually increase horsepower quite a bit depending on how your original air filter and intake tubes are designed! A lot of OEM air intake pipes are restricted and baffled to help decrease sound! So it is not so much the cold air part but the increased flow from the air filter and smooth wall design as well as bigger pipe diameter! Due to modern day technology this pretty much pertains to older vehicles!
I know Cletus made another video on electric superchargers, that used a huge battery and a switch to turn it on. I believe it was on a colbalt and it gained power.
Those also used massive brushless electric motors instead of the tiny DC fan motors. They make a massive difference. It’s like Walmart RC car vs a hobby grade RC motor. My RC car used lipo batteries and goes well over 60mph (not scale speed), snaps axles and I’ve even shattered the metal gears in the transmission for it. Big difference in the performance on the two motors you get with the ones Cletus had on his electric turbos/supercharger vs the cheap little ones that fit inside an intake tube.
I had an r53 mini cooper. It was supercharged. Installed a fitted cold air intake (not some generic cone filter) and it made the supercharger way louder if nothing else. Best mod for that particular car.
journalists: "top mounted intercoolers dont work" me: laughs in humvee for those not fimiliar with the layout of the humvee engine bay the entire cooling system sits on top of the engine under the hood
So, racecar things. I have access to a dyno 4 days of the week. I did an experiment on my personal weekend car, 03 mustang GT with a Ls3, ibeam aluminum rods, forged crank, trick flow heads, and a single 76mm precision turbo. I did a full proper performance exhaust on the dyno vs my fender exit 4 1/2 inch straight pipe. And the straight pipe made more power. A significant increase. 890 whp vs 967 with a straight pipe.
I love how u don't have that attitude to call ur guides "the way to go" instead you intentionally calling them "noob's guide" I really appreciate the truth and your honesty, it makes me want to watch them cause I know I won't be lied to 😊
H pipes are also only for sound at low RPM. Air can’t turn 90 degrees like that so once you actually step on it no air is going across that pipe. Only X pipes increase performance.
Not necessarily true, an H pipe will still increase scavenging compared to a dual exhaust that has no crossover pipe what so ever. You will see better gains with the X pipe though.
Are you looking for asthetic opinion or performance opinion? The only performance related interior mods would be - short shifters, race seats, roll cage, smaller steering wheels and basically deleting anything that makes your car heavy. Like radio, heaters, backseats, carpeting, etc.
Some of the nicer throttle spacers are themselves ported to increase airflow. The ones I got for my 370Z made a noticeable difference even before I got tuned.
Always glad to see these kinds of videos because when it comes down to someone wanting to mod their car stuff like this is going to be another good reference
I, run a throttlebody spacer on my crown vic, didn't affect 'throttle response' but noticeably increased torque between 3-4k RPMs. It's different for different engines. The 4.6L & 5.4L 2V V8s like them quite a bit, I cannot say the same for other motors without experience with em.
I am a carwrapper from netherlands and ik think you perfectly. Explained the difference between wraps and paint. A gloss wrap will never look as good as an paint semigloss or matte wraps ar in my opinion the only instance when you should wrap a car. If you want a gloss finish paint is best looking option
Just be sure you get one that's right for your engine. I've known plenty of guys who put tiny little K&N's on big ass engines only to go online and complain about cold air intakes being a scam afterwards.
A little birdy told me. If peak HP is also controlled by the exhaust shape, then explain why 100% of FunnyCars and top fuel dragsters have side short pipe exhausts. Granted, dragsters have turbos. But even N/A big blocks have short pipes
So, as someone who has put literally 100+ cars and trucks on a chassis dyno i concur, straight pipe on low-med HP cars are a huge torque loss, thus resulting in a loss of Horsepower since HP is a calculation of torque based off RPM. Also the "electric supercharger" that was shown is actually a loss of like 4 HP on a small stock N/A 2.0L, i think. I do remember it was an early 2000s Eclipse. Also, i can confirm, the leaf blower does give a small amount of HP lol.
roof spoilers which are angled downwards to direct air down a window instead of deflect upwards (the blue subaru roof wing you showed) acheives a similar result to vortex generators. you are correct about the roof spoiler on the orange car, but the one on the subaru is functionally pushing air downwards towards the rear wing.
Mod kits from reputable businesses are also great for the modifying n00b. I used a suspension kit from Pelican Parts (springs and dampers) and a power kit from Turner Motorsport. Very happy with both.
To be entirely honest coming from my experience with CAI's(cold air intakes), they add at least something. When i added my intake to my 97' Camry, it actually gained literally 3 hp, 1 mpg, and better response on the lower end torque. Other than that, I wouldn't advise slapping a CAI on a newer vehicle as the way their air box is designed is typicially better than the aftermarkets UNLESS you plan on going with more mods as Bladed explained in the video. Overall, CAI's are just so damn pretty lol
I would say that slapping a cold air intake is best for 90's cars, mine had the air intake go right over the exhaust header and valve covers instead of being routed around the engine away from the heat, you literally cant touch the intake pipe right after you park
@@cantfindneutral The one that I got was the HPS Performance for the 2.2L. It had the instructions, the intake, heat shield, and filter. I reused the clamps (the one with the screwdriver to tighten) for the tube before the throttle body and where the tube and the filter meets. Fitment is very mint.
I see and read so much debate about cold air intake vs stock box. I think the stock box works the same as cold air intake. Cold air intake just lets you here the turbo better.
Thanks for the info bladed. Now I realized that I’m guilty of a fake car mod. I put a throttle body spacer in my crown Vic not realizing what a ported throttle body actually did. If only I knew before I ruined my car like that 😂😂😂
The bald tire one is a big one. I work in a tire shop and see them a lot. I had one guy who would drive on a tire so bald the belts were showing on one tire, another was almost completely bald. These were just the fronts. His rears were just as bad. One was a bald doughnut spare, and the other was almost bald with 2 nails in the sidewall. This person likes to drive on the highway constantly like this, going 2 hours north from where I work.
Both intakes and exhaust have pulses going through them, that run in both directions. The diameter and length are both part of tuning for best movement of air and exhaust at a specific rpm range. A well engineered engine mod will include changes in many places, from intake to camshafts to exhaust to heads, and the list goes on. This is why those spacers can help with low end power, but in return, you lose some top end. It's all a give and take, and factory engines are designed pretty well, given that they need to remain within emissions and noise specs.
Doing an x/h-pipe on an I4 is gonna be more difficult.They only have one side of exhaust. Just do a small performance exhaust on a 4 cylinder and it'd be fine.
I only have an issue with the last statement - rep vs name brand wheels. I personally run a set of rep wheels on an Evo X and they are just great, never had an issue with them. That being said, I don't recommend going for cheap wheels that look like something they are not, because the set I bought is actually a high quality replica, which was a decision made mostly made from a budget perspective (they were not dirt cheap, cost like 400 buckaroos a wheel, maybe more). My reasoning was, that we don't really have a lot of good looking wheel models from certified manufacturers (EU FTW) and I couldn't get my hands on anything that I would consider a good fitment - most TUV certified brands have bad offset and width choices (imagine an Evo X on 18x8,5 ET 45 wheels)... I can't imagine what would happen, if I bought a set of rep wheels from the US hearing a lot of horror stories about them going ballistic. My final thought is never cheap out on anything that contacts the road, be it suspension, wheels or tires, but don't get pressured into buying "the real deal of wheel" if it's not in your budget... use your common sense and go for something that looks nice while providing adequate strength and durability for your intended purpose. (not hating on OG wheels, but not everyone can afford them for their 12 year old Mitsubishi shitbox lol)
The other problem I have with "real" wheels is that when you find a wheel that looks cool, they don't come in your size or lug pattern. I would love to run some Hayashi Streets. But they don't come in my size or pattern.
@@jonathanpinckney9227 Exactly, and changing your lug pattern just for wheels is possible through a spacer which messes up your fitment. That being said, rep brands definitely have a place in this market.
@@AnabolicGoat For that reason, yes. Another thing about real wheel companies is you find a rep, you want to see about the "real" one, only to find out that they don't make them anymore. Or you just want a monoblock wheel and all the "real" ones that you're interested in are two or three piece wheels.
I want to add one more information about straight pipe vs h or x pipes. H or x pipes are also designed to keep lower pression on the exhaust valves because of the faster air flow escaping from the combustion chamber. In this way the low pression that generates near the exhaust valves sucks up the dirty air after the combustion and it increases efficiency (cleaner engine, lower gasoline consumption, faster revs and actual more power). Straight pipes make the engine less efficient and in some cases less powerful because the air coming out the exhaust has to deal with atmospheric pressure so the pistons have to push harder to make the air escape the engine. Also phisically speaking loudness = waste of energy. Sound is energy converted in kinetic energy that moves air particles (sound). So if an exhaust is loud it means that some energy is wasted to make the car louder (improper airflow, more vibrations transmitted to the exhaust pipe, higher temperatures and less reliability) I know... My english is bad.
Intakes of all shapes and sizes can improve MAF/MAP signals and the cleaner you can get the airflow the better. Typically stock intakes on all performance cars have the best signal quality, and I wouldn't move away from that unless you go boosted.
@redbeastthechallenger because if you're asking about aftermarket intakes, then you probably don't need it. A tuner would inform you of what you want to add for performance increases, and a mechanic will tell you how to keep it running in top shape. Just barking up the wrong tree.
I must say this, with all due respect, I changed out my 'restrictive' stock air intake on a 2015 Toyota Corolla S, over to a Takeda short ram and witnessed a quite noticeable difference in the car's ability to breath air much better while also providing a small, but noticeable difference in performance. My next move is to add on a straight-flow Borla muffler, i.e., short air in (Tekeda)short air out (Borla) combo. Outside of this, to do more, I might as well just get a different car.
“Never underestimate the power of stupid.” Reminds me of a rather apt Albert Einstein quote: “the difference between genius and idiocy is that genius has it’s limits.” From all I’ve observed, it’s incredible just how stupid people can be.
The pressure thing at the end is not true. It wont hurt performance and having it escape more easily with less pressure = less backpressure = more flow (backpressure is only needed in 2 strokes) Edit:Spelling
I agree with you for most things but If you remove the catalytic converted and attach a pipe with a larger diameter instead of a regular exhaust pipe you gain for sure more power as long as the exhaust valves for the zylinder head and the exhaust manifold allow a higher gas flow through a straight pipe. If the exhaust valves, the zylinderhead or the exhaust manifold are restircting the exhauste flow then even the largest exhaust pipe want bring you anything. This is simply because the piston needs less force to push the burnt fuel out of the burning chamber when the exhaust has to be pushed through a smalller pipe which creates backpressure. The lower force needed to push the exhaust out of the chamber is the torque you gain by this method. In a extremly simplified model you can use the law of Hagen-Poiseuille which state that the pressure decreases to the power of 4 by the increase of the radius by the factor 2. Therefore, the larger the diameter of the exhauste the lower the backpressure. This means that the piston does not have to apply such a high force to get ride of the exhaust and overall you gain more torque. Furthermore, less exhaust is left in the burning chamber and a higher amount of oxygen is in the burning chamber and therefore more gas can be burnt which increases the power even more. This is also the reason why supercars have mostly a exhaust with a flap that opens as soon as you want the full power of the car. You can easily try this at home. Take a bottle filled with water then make a 1 mm diameter hole in the lid. Now push the water out and stop the time. Now you repeat this but instead of a 1 mm diameter you now emove the lid and push the water out of the bottle. The bottle without lid will empty much faster than the one with the small hole in the lid. This is also true for the exhaust even thoug the behaviour is not excatly to the the law of Hagen-Poiseuille because these are gases and the formula must be modified for this.
for my vehicle i had to replace the exhaust system because its y pipe literally rotted in the middle beneath the engine. i cut it off and ran open headers until i got a new x pipe setup. the open headers was just stupid loud with no tone. the x pipe although a bit quieter just sounds so much better. i didnt notice any power differences.
Bladed thank you so much for making this video. I've continuously came back to it before ordering or thinking about getting parts so it's nice to have a reference on what to get.
Just a note, while eBay desk fans claiming to be electric superchargers don't do anything, electric superchargers (with 15-20hp electric motors and 48V+ electrical systems) are currently used in production vehicles (ex. in the current Audi 3.0T motor to provide boost while the turbo is out of boost).
For the straight pipe example, The reason why engineers make the pipe small is because it reduces the amount of metal needed to make the exhaust, i.e cost and also to get more precise measurements for the oxygen sensors and catalytic converter. The volume flow rate, Q is not going to change, You're going to get the same momentum out of each diameter pipe for the same amount of force, using the continuity equation. yes there is going to be different pressures in the pipe, and different velocities, but its not necessary to have higher pressures, unless you're doing it for the sensors. I'm in engineering btw
Listen, I can’t help how much I love the convenience of just hacking off the muffler. It’s loud, and I like it. However, you are absolutely correct about the exhaust pressure, hence to why I would never get bigger pipes. TLDR; I like loud car.
My dude... that thick fog on the highway brings back pleasant memories of a night when me and a few friends went on a vacation... the weather was just like that. And we all had a blast.
I've done some research for the older cars getting benefit and it is true. Theoretically if I bought a better tune for my 305 tpi I could increase horsepower a good amount and the cold air intake would actually benefit me because stock injection iroc camaros have a very restricted intake system
I've got 2 mods that, when paired will make you win all the races! Interior mounted rv Blindspot mirrors and a custom horn setup to play "LEROY JENKINS!" And while my opponent is laughing their ass off I can Flintstone it to the finish line!
Hey @Bladed Angel , I’ve actually seen that the roof spoiler specifically on the GD Chassis STi actually does make a difference because it directs air to the high spoiler. Not sure if it’s 100% legit, but it would make sense compared to other cars using it. Lmk what you think!
You'd think after flowing past the roof spoiler the air would be really turbulent when it got to the wing. I might see if I can find any wind tunnel testing for that
I have a question about straight pipes You explained in this video, that if i installed a thicc straigh tube in my grocery getter i wouldn't gain anything at all, but what about more powerful cars with like 350+ horsepower, will installing a big straight pipe do anything good with higher power engines?
Yes with an engine that has higher displacement or revs and pushes out more exhaust fumes is generally gonna need bigger exhaust, also, unless you have Clout syndrome, there is absolutely no need for a straight pipe, mufflers will rob you 10HP generally (depends really, on new cars it's a much smaller difference and there are so many variables which I couldn't get into even if I wanted to) and hell, it's possible to have 0HP loss muffler systems that are reasonably quiet (you would have 0 problems passing noise regs).
@@hubertkam7647 don't lie to them. No car can benefit from straightpiping. All it does is make you loud, annoying, and triggering for people with PTSD.
1. Pretty sure this guy is being sarcastic 2. If you have watched alot of the other vids/ vlogs it shows that he has the vette, his mustang 5.0 that he recently repaired and I think he has a Lexus or some other sedan
Any time I see bald tires on a car, 99% of the time being at the local junkyard, I'd *jokingly* go "dems some slicks." But the fact that there's actually people out there who think they're actual racing slicks just makes me question the brains of any human being on this planet who somehow thinks that's the case. My favorite of those "junkyard slicks" being a bald Prius donut spare.
I’ll say this though, i had a ported intake manifold and later bored my throttle body + spacer and port matched it to my IM and it’s given some decent improvements in regards to thermals (haven’t flowbenched it so I cant confirm air flow improvements yet), not enough to feel but it’s there. Now unless I’m driving hard for a while I can comfortably place my hand on my intake manifold and not melt my skin lol
I was actually happy vortex generators was mentioned, because some people claim it's just a ricer mod, but it's actually scientifically proven to do things with aerodynamics. Basically vortexed air followes curves better and also due to to turbulence has less surface friction and flows faster. This is why you see cars today using things even like the body lines and side mirror shapes to create small vortices in order to reduce drag and gain mpg... And on the leading edges of plane wings (and Pikes Peak trial car wings), because that sped up air is less dense, creating lift on the plane wings, and downforce on the car wings). You see the vortex generators on STIs and EVOs because they're causing the wind to follow the back window, which at first would create lift, EXCEPT that air the those massive rear spoilers and it creates downforce in the spoiler. For a pickup truck, vortex generators would cause less drag on your back window as the vortexed air separates in a more streamlined fashion from your roof edge vs a dirty eddy of air dragging on your back window. Couple that with a bed topper and tailgate spoiler (reducing drag on your tailgate by moving the separation point and eddy further away from and therefore having less pull on your tailgate, you'll have more mpg & higher possible top speed, as well as faster acceleration at elevated speeds due to less drag (so you can pass those slowpokes holding up traffic quicker!)
whats the point if youre keeping the same diameter? if you want it to sound different then you have to go without a muffler, cat, or both but that will sound like ass. the most i would to keep it from being a rice rod would be removing the cat and thats it. just keep on the resonator and muffler (or the expensive route, get a high quality muffler, a skunk2 muffler makes a honda sound pretty nice, no loud ass bee noises)
It really depends on WHICH flash tuner it is. MHD, which is famously known for BMW engines like N54, S55, B58, and S58, offers OTS tunes as well as the ability to create custom dyno tunes using the platform. Some flashers are simplers and more general (like you said, model instead of your SPECIFIC car), while others will allow you to create custom tunes that will make the most out of your personal setup.
Ehhhhh, the engine being turbo'd won't really make a straight pipe the better choice, you should think of it more as exhaust size dependence on how much gas you're pushing out of the engine. There is a way to make a muffler system that costs you 0HP while being reasonably quiet. And on no exhaust, while yeah you can have no exhaust and see gains over your average exhaust system, an actual well designed exhaust system won't hurt, plus it's not a very good idea to have hot powerful exhaust gasses go under your car for aero reasons.
Of course you can't, but that's not the point. The point is, in general, X/H piping is A) safer b)mo powa babeh c) better for your vehicle. If you have an inline, just get a better exhaust system.
Some inline engines, mostly 6 bangers, use two separate headers (one for the first three, and another for the last three cylinders), these can run x/h pipes, true duals, etc.
@@wolfgang_h3t I've owned quite a few i6s and all of them had headers that came out in two sets of three but merged into one before the end, can you give me an example of a car with the setup you're talking about cus I'd be interested
Purchased my Eibach lowering springs and had them installed by a great mechanic at Sears in Gurnee, IL. They dropped the car 1 & 1/2 inches and it looks fantastic and became super-sure footed in curves. The Eibachs handle rapid acceleration and braking extremely well. Replacing the coil packs after 98000 miles increased hp by 20. Removing the resonator also increased throttle response (lag time no longer exists). switching to Premium ARCO fuel instead of the manufacturer's politically correct 87 octane recommendation. Results: Higher top end speed, mpg +5 over manufacturer's window sticker, super-fast throttle response. I love what these changes have done for the vehicle.
A short ram intake can be useful depending on application. More air is always better. Think of a sbc literally flipping top of air cleaner over making poor man’s cold air intake increases hp a measurable amount like 5hp and that’s in same spot it was same temp air as before just more.
Again it depends on what car it is. More air is only better if that's the bottleneck in the system. But just because there is "more air" doesn't mean that a car has the fueling or mapping to take advantage of it. Also the bottleneck could very well just be in the head anyway. So some cars pick up some hp from it and some see worse performance compared to stock.
@@christopherjohnston6343 pretty much every newer vehicle’s computer will make necessary adjustments for a simple air intake alone. And no vehicle after 1996 odb 2 requirement will not have enough fueling to handle the extra air from just an intake it’s not like your adding boost lmao. Stock heads will always be a bottle neck eventually along with everything else in the engine will be. It’s rare for more air to atomize fuel more being a bad thing and when there’s the few situations where there’s no gains or a loss it’s so small it’s within +\- averages you would see normally anyways if you dyno the vehicle 10 times in a row. And any engine that’s carbureted it’s going to be better 99% of the time.
The point of short ram intake is not to take in colder air. It's to reduce air flow restriction. Whether of not that makes a measurable difference depends on your set up. Heat could offset the benefit. You can make an equation for this
Thank you for this. There are plenty of people who scream "hot air intake" but like you said it's totally dependent on your setup. Particularly on a forced induction system, of you have a properly set up intercooling system the temp difference between a "hot air intake" and a cold air intake at the intake manifold (after the cooler) is negligible. Sure the sooner temp may be better but complexity may not be better in the long run.
You mean like both having a front and top mounted intercoolers? If so, you'd just be wasting your time as you'd add twice the weight for 5 more HP at best (assuming one of your intercoolers is adequately sized). And if you mean having just a front intercooler with a hood scoop well then how in the bloody hell will you route the scoop to the intercooler, plus as long as you have sufficient flow through the bumper into the intercooler then there is absolutely no need for more flow through it.
Top mount vs. Front mount intercoolers. The front mount is technically more efficient at cooling, but can very slightly reduce throttle response vs. A top mount intercooler. More piping, and more air flow cause intake air temps to be better, but the added piping can reduce throttle response because the air has to travel farther. Tho the throttle response changes are usually negligible. And the lower IATs can be a bit of a benefit actually
So a regular performance tune is like buying a suit from a store, it's nice but has room for improvement, while a dyno tune is like a tailored suit, meant to fit exact specifications.
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Never gonna give you up
Never gonna let you down
Never gonna run around and desert you
@@BladedAngel never gonna make you cry
@@mallonk- Never gonna say goodbye
@@FEARSOMETOKEN Never gonna tell a lie and hurt you
The biggest difference I noticed with a cold air intake is marginally better mpg. Though, the intake on it before had massive air leaks. 🤷♂️
the biggest difference I noticed is sound tbh.
@@SomeOne_86 my car isn't in typical condition. It already had a cai but it was so bad you could remove it by hand. And it had long tubes on the exhaust. You couldn't hear the intake if you wanted to. I've made it quieter since then.
@@SomeOne_86 sameeee
Yeah but that and a tune dosnt help
My CAI gave my car better throttle response and a nicer sounding exhaust, made it sound a lot more throaty.
my cold air intake was totally worth it for the look and sound, but besides the mpg boost there is not much performance gain to be had unless you are boosted
Or mpg
I’m putting one on my GTI literally only to hear my turbo better lmao
@@SadistSalem I'm over here getting excited about my N/A noise lmao, I drive the little underdog sentra ser
Put one on my si now I can actually hear vtec crossover
@@jeffy69696 *VTEC kick in yo.*
Don’t forget that there are 2 types of intercoolers, “air to air” and “water to air”.
Basically “air to air” is the type you see sticking out of the front end and are usually quite thick and works like the name suggests, the “intake air” passes through the intercooler and gets cooled down by air going through it.
Water to air intercoolers are usually a slightly more complicated set up, basically you use water to cool down the “intake air”, most set ups use a “heat exchanger” (a radiator of sorts) which is “plumed in” (or connected) to the intercooler. But water to air can also be a “ice box” set up.
Water to air is a pretty efficient system and usually takes up less room than a air to air set up.
wow thanks for clarifying! I am a big Toyota celica nerd and the all trac turbo celicas had a water to air intercooler.
Water cooling the car
The thing is though, turbos are lighter/simpler with an air to air intercooler.
@@ThePower1037 well yeah, off course, the less parts in a system, the cheaper and less complicated it becomes.
However not all engine bays have the space for thick charge air piping and big air to air intercooler which has to be mounted where it get a sufficient amount of air flow, but also preferably not too far from the Turbo. In that aspect water to air is far superior as coolant hoses are usually thinner and easier to plum up, plus the heat exchanger tends to be thinner than air to air intercoolers.
Both have their pros and cons, both are useful.
Sounds more like oil cooling. What cools the water?
One thing I noticed with the cold air intake is how fast the turbo builds boost compared to on the stock box. It's not making any more power, but it feels much quicker because of that.
HP and torque aren't the only factors to speed.
im pretty sure its just engine response. its not crazy though, youre not getting new power i guess you can say. this got proven to me by doing engine compression testing (for NA high compression will definitely squeeze out more power that the engine could've had brand new). a small engine does actually struggle more to get air with a stock box intake.
more airflow is making more power, not seeing higher dyno numbers doesnt mean it didnt improve the way the engine runs
@@nomercyinc6783 LOL. Dyno numbers don't lie but your butt dyno does all the time.
Turbos aren't fed by the intake box they are fed by exhaust flow.
0:55 Throttle response, while not being extra power, is a very, very valid thing to want in your build. Like, an NA with poor throttle response can straight up be worse than a turbo'd engine with really good throttle response.
3:30 Pretty much every car already has a cold air intake. A true cold air intake is giving it access to proper airflow, like by positioning it behind a bumper or headlight vent. Or out your hood. Or any other alternative you can think of, the sky is the limit.
Very valid. If the car makes me feel like it’s fun to drive, that’s all I need. The cold air intake thing seemed weird to me too because most cars take in air from the bumper or the hood. My current civic came with a “cold air intake” which pulls air in from the engine bay, which isn’t cold. And the hood is stock. I don’t see how that provides any benefit over a stock air intake, which takes in colder air from outside the engine bay
the way I see it, for all of this, is that there's no reason to cheap out on it. The fake/cheap stuff can actually be more dangerous than the real thing. In my opinion, there's no reason to buy the cheap thing and say you'll buy the real thing when you have the money. save the money now and buy the real thing right off the bat.
On the flip side,
Expensive ≠ better
@@AdventureShock Sure, but often times cheap = worse, if you want to get cheap and good then you must spend plenty of time researching, waiting for offers and stuff like that, also best way to cheap out is making everything you can by yourself, labor is sometimes the most expensive so if you are willing to learn and have plenty of time then it's a really good option
Cheap doesn’t mean bad. Anyone can spend money. I can’t stand bought not built people they know nothing just get in think they can drive but any talents usually just the money they dropped holding them up like a crutch and it won’t last.
I think it's important to differentiate between cheap and fake. Cheap is not necessarily unsafe but it may not perform as well. Depends what it is.
@@christopherjohnston6343 I agree. Burn cheap also can perform just as well or better depending on who’s doing work and application especially. And “cheap” is different to many people. So many say something’s cheap and it’s price is ridiculous and I’d absolutely never pay the price for whatever the product is. Especially when I can fabricate and make so much stuff better then people waste money on especially items that cost manufacturers a dollar and sell for 20. It’s amazing how much people will pay for dollar in material garbage.
A cold air intake, or similar tube+filter setup is also a great maintenance mod. The stock tubing and airbox take up so much space that you need to remove them all the time to swap out parts/do some maintenance, so having a simpler setup makes it a lot easier.
I have a short ram on my car, but it’s mainly for the sound it produces. Make the intake hella loud, and sounds great. There’s no performance gain from the butt dyno, but it’s still a cheap $100 way to make your car sound awesome.
Still an open cai makes hella noise and i made mine with a simple cheap cone filter and a bit of piping, now my intake does not go over the exhaust headers and also sounds insane at wot (for a small 1.4), only costing like 25 bucks
@Neellav Gogoi placebo effect is real. The whole supplement industry is built on it
@@christopherjohnston6343 don’t know if placebo works on machines
@@jooot_6850 not in a medical sense but you still understood what I meant
@@christopherjohnston6343 right it would feel faster to drive sure
As a teenager who likes loud exhaust, I don’t do it for “attention” or “daddy issues” I simply like hearing the car/truck I am driving, and I would put glass packed exhaust/high flow mufflers to give it more sound depth, I just wanted to say that lol
Glass packs sound absolutely amazing on any V8 car and are dirt cheap. Just don't be an A-hole and use the ones that are like 4 inches long that hardly tone down anything lol 😆
@@chrishernandez2490 😂
@@TotinoOG I have a 32 inch glass pack on my truck and it's very nice
On lowering springs,
I lowered my Mercedes 190E couple of years ago with Eibach pro kit springs.
Everything was fine, apart from the fact there was this weird creeking noise when I turned the wheel while parking. After checking everything and replacing every part there was to replace with suspension and steering, finally I found the issue.
The steering drop link bushings on the passenger side became stressed when I lowered the springs, since this cause all the steering angles to change.
TL;DR, if you lower your ride height, you must then also replace or re-adjust all the steering components.
I drive a Mk2 Golf and I was thinking about using lowered springs and even though I will be replacing entire suspension system and many other parts including steering hardware, I am glad you mentioned this as I want the car to feel as nice as it can get.
I never had that issue with mine. I used their 2 inch lowering springs for my 90 Toyota Celica Gt back when I was younger. It made a huge difference in the way that car handled. It wasn't til I rode in that car afterwards that I finally understood what, cornering like its on rails meant.
@@joshmulder8125 the suspension and steering setup in the 190E and Celica are completely different
@@ExAnimoPortugalthat sounds like it specifically applies to certain type of cars then, or age is a factor too then. Cos idk if this is applicable to my newer car
bladed angel single handedly deriving up the leaf blower prices
The Leaf Blower market WILL BE RUINED!
@@BladedAngel we will all be buying electric superchargers to blow leaves away
Part of the large exhaust issue is if the exhaust doesn't get out fast enough, it cools making it denser, and harder to push.
also increases turbulent airflow within the pipe, further backing things up
I'm in the UK, many years ago I had a Triumph Dolomite 1850. When the stock exhaust rusted away (They did back in the 1970s. I replaced it with a properly designed rally exhaust. The result was more responsive throttle and an improvement in fuel economy from an average of 30mpg to around 36mpg. Apart from that the engine, carbs, air filters were stock.
There are real electric supercharger basically a procharger driven by an electric motor but the one you showed is the scam
Hence why I stopped calling the one I talk about "an electric Supercharger" You hear me say, "This 'intake fan' is an insult to actual electric superchargers". I know real ones exist, they're great and useful. I'm obviously just gonna call this scam ass piece an intake fan instead.
@@BladedAngel yes I was just elaborating on the entry
@@BladedAngel You said that the fan was an “insult to actual electric superchargers like the ones on electric cars” But they have actually made an electric supercharger for a gas engine which actually makes substantial gains in horsepower! And as for the CAI they can actually increase horsepower quite a bit depending on how your original air filter and intake tubes are designed! A lot of OEM air intake pipes are restricted and baffled to help decrease sound! So it is not so much the cold air part but the increased flow from the air filter and smooth wall design as well as bigger pipe diameter! Due to modern day technology this pretty much pertains to older vehicles!
Dear Bladed,
Thank you so much for the mod infomation. I really apprecate your videos and thanks for making these times so much easier for me.
I know Cletus made another video on electric superchargers, that used a huge battery and a switch to turn it on. I believe it was on a colbalt and it gained power.
Those also used massive brushless electric motors instead of the tiny DC fan motors. They make a massive difference. It’s like Walmart RC car vs a hobby grade RC motor. My RC car used lipo batteries and goes well over 60mph (not scale speed), snaps axles and I’ve even shattered the metal gears in the transmission for it. Big difference in the performance on the two motors you get with the ones Cletus had on his electric turbos/supercharger vs the cheap little ones that fit inside an intake tube.
I had an r53 mini cooper. It was supercharged. Installed a fitted cold air intake (not some generic cone filter) and it made the supercharger way louder if nothing else. Best mod for that particular car.
Very informative video :)
YOOOO cool seeing you here
Wait, what are you doing here? Your supposed to be in Texas with Brandon Herrera.
wait wut
did this vid get algorithm'd to you or smth
@@OutrunRewind yes, i guess so
@@PolenarTactical searching for more fuel-filter related experiments, are we?
journalists: "top mounted intercoolers dont work"
me: laughs in humvee
for those not fimiliar with the layout of the humvee engine bay the entire cooling system sits on top of the engine under the hood
So, racecar things. I have access to a dyno 4 days of the week. I did an experiment on my personal weekend car, 03 mustang GT with a Ls3, ibeam aluminum rods, forged crank, trick flow heads, and a single 76mm precision turbo. I did a full proper performance exhaust on the dyno vs my fender exit 4 1/2 inch straight pipe. And the straight pipe made more power. A significant increase. 890 whp vs 967 with a straight pipe.
I love how u don't have that attitude to call ur guides "the way to go" instead you intentionally calling them "noob's guide"
I really appreciate the truth and your honesty, it makes me want to watch them cause I know I won't be lied to 😊
H pipes are also only for sound at low RPM. Air can’t turn 90 degrees like that so once you actually step on it no air is going across that pipe. Only X pipes increase performance.
Not necessarily true, an H pipe will still increase scavenging compared to a dual exhaust that has no crossover pipe what so ever. You will see better gains with the X pipe though.
Not to mention, if you're comparing it to a straight-pipe, like Bladed was doing, literally ANYTHING is better.
I would like to know your opinion about modifications in the interior, ambient light etc.
Why would he care? That’s literally all preference. There’s very little interior performance mods, except like a nice steering wheel and a seat.
That’s like asking what he thinks about your room decorations. Nevertheless if you wanna see that video I hope he makes it for you.
@@steverossen2816 and a roll cage if you want to count it lol
Are you looking for asthetic opinion or performance opinion?
The only performance related interior mods would be - short shifters, race seats, roll cage, smaller steering wheels and basically deleting anything that makes your car heavy. Like radio, heaters, backseats, carpeting, etc.
I like my creature comforts lol
seeing a Ford Falcon G6E Turbo at 5:15 was an unexpected surprise, not complaining though.
I recognised that as well are you Australian too?
I was wondering when I'd find the comment of the falcon
Bro absolutely obliterated the straight pipe defenders 😂
I've actually found cold air intakes to not be an upgrade, but a lot of times a cheaper replacement part to an entire airbox assembly.
Look up age cold air intake and try.... I did and I am very happy
Some of the nicer throttle spacers are themselves ported to increase airflow. The ones I got for my 370Z made a noticeable difference even before I got tuned.
Always glad to see these kinds of videos because when it comes down to someone wanting to mod their car stuff like this is going to be another good reference
conclusion of the wrap-paint part:
wraps are temprorary
paint is eternal
Paint is not eternal, paint is vain
I wish paint were eternal, but my e36 disagrees.
My 07 Si disagrees as well
Throttle body spacers increase the plenum size, which can help increase torque if your cars plenum was undersized from the factory
I, run a throttlebody spacer on my crown vic, didn't affect 'throttle response' but noticeably increased torque between 3-4k RPMs. It's different for different engines. The 4.6L & 5.4L 2V V8s like them quite a bit, I cannot say the same for other motors without experience with em.
I am a carwrapper from netherlands and ik think you perfectly. Explained the difference between wraps and paint. A gloss wrap will never look as good as an paint semigloss or matte wraps ar in my opinion the only instance when you should wrap a car. If you want a gloss finish paint is best looking option
cold air intakes are a good mod, Especially if you combo with an exhaust. even if you just do a muffler delete, the intake sounds good.
Just be sure you get one that's right for your engine. I've known plenty of guys who put tiny little K&N's on big ass engines only to go online and complain about cold air intakes being a scam afterwards.
Cool air intake are for 1 part of the combustion equation. I'm not spelling something this easy out for anyone lol.
A little birdy told me. If peak HP is also controlled by the exhaust shape, then explain why 100% of FunnyCars and top fuel dragsters have side short pipe exhausts. Granted, dragsters have turbos. But even N/A big blocks have short pipes
my friend with an 04 elantra swears to god that the autozone short ram, and radiator he put on has made his car a v6 mustang killing rocket.
🤣🤣🤣
No, that's pretty much a typical Korean car owner lol
So, as someone who has put literally 100+ cars and trucks on a chassis dyno i concur, straight pipe on low-med HP cars are a huge torque loss, thus resulting in a loss of Horsepower since HP is a calculation of torque based off RPM. Also the "electric supercharger" that was shown is actually a loss of like 4 HP on a small stock N/A 2.0L, i think. I do remember it was an early 2000s Eclipse. Also, i can confirm, the leaf blower does give a small amount of HP lol.
roof spoilers which are angled downwards to direct air down a window instead of deflect upwards (the blue subaru roof wing you showed) acheives a similar result to vortex generators. you are correct about the roof spoiler on the orange car, but the one on the subaru is functionally pushing air downwards towards the rear wing.
Mod kits from reputable businesses are also great for the modifying n00b. I used a suspension kit from Pelican Parts (springs and dampers) and a power kit from Turner Motorsport. Very happy with both.
To be entirely honest coming from my experience with CAI's(cold air intakes), they add at least something. When i added my intake to my 97' Camry, it actually gained literally 3 hp, 1 mpg, and better response on the lower end torque. Other than that, I wouldn't advise slapping a CAI on a newer vehicle as the way their air box is designed is typicially better than the aftermarkets UNLESS you plan on going with more mods as Bladed explained in the video. Overall, CAI's are just so damn pretty lol
I would say that slapping a cold air intake is best for 90's cars, mine had the air intake go right over the exhaust header and valve covers instead of being routed around the engine away from the heat, you literally cant touch the intake pipe right after you park
@@joey_f4ke238 sounds bout right lol
What brand cold air intake did you get? I have a '99 Camry.
@@cantfindneutral The one that I got was the HPS Performance for the 2.2L. It had the instructions, the intake, heat shield, and filter. I reused the clamps (the one with the screwdriver to tighten) for the tube before the throttle body and where the tube and the filter meets. Fitment is very mint.
@@_itzjoshhh7927 Thanks.
I see and read so much debate about cold air intake vs stock box.
I think the stock box works the same as cold air intake.
Cold air intake just lets you here the turbo better.
NA cars are a thing
On carbureted engines a spacer under the carb can actually increase hp, but it can shift the power curve a bit.
It can keep your fuel from burning up in the carb to
First video that I'm actually here for when it's posted
Same bro.
Thanks for the info bladed. Now I realized that I’m guilty of a fake car mod. I put a throttle body spacer in my crown Vic not realizing what a ported throttle body actually did. If only I knew before I ruined my car like that 😂😂😂
The bald tire one is a big one. I work in a tire shop and see them a lot. I had one guy who would drive on a tire so bald the belts were showing on one tire, another was almost completely bald. These were just the fronts. His rears were just as bad. One was a bald doughnut spare, and the other was almost bald with 2 nails in the sidewall. This person likes to drive on the highway constantly like this, going 2 hours north from where I work.
Both intakes and exhaust have pulses going through them, that run in both directions. The diameter and length are both part of tuning for best movement of air and exhaust at a specific rpm range. A well engineered engine mod will include changes in many places, from intake to camshafts to exhaust to heads, and the list goes on. This is why those spacers can help with low end power, but in return, you lose some top end. It's all a give and take, and factory engines are designed pretty well, given that they need to remain within emissions and noise specs.
You have grown so much in knowledge my mate. So many years without watching your videos and I can already tell in 49 seconds. Big hug.
Doing an x/h-pipe on an I4 is gonna be more difficult.They only have one side of exhaust. Just do a small performance exhaust on a 4 cylinder and it'd be fine.
13:33
"low 200hp grocery getter"
What the hell is my 70hp fiesta then? A moped?
I only have an issue with the last statement - rep vs name brand wheels. I personally run a set of rep wheels on an Evo X and they are just great, never had an issue with them. That being said, I don't recommend going for cheap wheels that look like something they are not, because the set I bought is actually a high quality replica, which was a decision made mostly made from a budget perspective (they were not dirt cheap, cost like 400 buckaroos a wheel, maybe more). My reasoning was, that we don't really have a lot of good looking wheel models from certified manufacturers (EU FTW) and I couldn't get my hands on anything that I would consider a good fitment - most TUV certified brands have bad offset and width choices (imagine an Evo X on 18x8,5 ET 45 wheels)... I can't imagine what would happen, if I bought a set of rep wheels from the US hearing a lot of horror stories about them going ballistic. My final thought is never cheap out on anything that contacts the road, be it suspension, wheels or tires, but don't get pressured into buying "the real deal of wheel" if it's not in your budget... use your common sense and go for something that looks nice while providing adequate strength and durability for your intended purpose.
(not hating on OG wheels, but not everyone can afford them for their 12 year old Mitsubishi shitbox lol)
The other problem I have with "real" wheels is that when you find a wheel that looks cool, they don't come in your size or lug pattern. I would love to run some Hayashi Streets. But they don't come in my size or pattern.
@@jonathanpinckney9227 Exactly, and changing your lug pattern just for wheels is possible through a spacer which messes up your fitment. That being said, rep brands definitely have a place in this market.
@@AnabolicGoat For that reason, yes. Another thing about real wheel companies is you find a rep, you want to see about the "real" one, only to find out that they don't make them anymore. Or you just want a monoblock wheel and all the "real" ones that you're interested in are two or three piece wheels.
I want to add one more information about straight pipe vs h or x pipes. H or x pipes are also designed to keep lower pression on the exhaust valves because of the faster air flow escaping from the combustion chamber. In this way the low pression that generates near the exhaust valves sucks up the dirty air after the combustion and it increases efficiency (cleaner engine, lower gasoline consumption, faster revs and actual more power). Straight pipes make the engine less efficient and in some cases less powerful because the air coming out the exhaust has to deal with atmospheric pressure so the pistons have to push harder to make the air escape the engine. Also phisically speaking loudness = waste of energy. Sound is energy converted in kinetic energy that moves air particles (sound). So if an exhaust is loud it means that some energy is wasted to make the car louder (improper airflow, more vibrations transmitted to the exhaust pipe, higher temperatures and less reliability)
I know... My english is bad.
Intakes of all shapes and sizes can improve MAF/MAP signals and the cleaner you can get the airflow the better. Typically stock intakes on all performance cars have the best signal quality, and I wouldn't move away from that unless you go boosted.
years ago, I asked my mechanic about aftermarket intakes, and he said, "the factory engineers pretty much knew what they were doing"
Well they are more customers based so yea they won't give you mod advice
@redbeastthechallenger because if you're asking about aftermarket intakes, then you probably don't need it. A tuner would inform you of what you want to add for performance increases, and a mechanic will tell you how to keep it running in top shape. Just barking up the wrong tree.
I used to do stupid internet myth mods, but now I’m back to the real gain of HP.
I must say this, with all due respect, I changed out my 'restrictive' stock air intake on a 2015 Toyota Corolla S, over to a Takeda short ram and witnessed a quite noticeable difference in the car's ability to breath air much better while also providing a small, but noticeable difference in performance. My next move is to add on a straight-flow Borla muffler, i.e., short air in (Tekeda)short air out (Borla) combo. Outside of this, to do more, I might as well just get a different car.
can confirm! I have similar car and swapping was noticeable especially with other intake/exhaust mods
“Never underestimate the power of stupid.” Reminds me of a rather apt Albert Einstein quote: “the difference between genius and idiocy is that genius has it’s limits.” From all I’ve observed, it’s incredible just how stupid people can be.
The pressure thing at the end is not true. It wont hurt performance and having it escape more easily with less pressure = less backpressure = more flow (backpressure is only needed in 2 strokes)
Edit:Spelling
“All it does is improves your throttle response time” that’s more important than a minor power boost honestly
5:17 AYY A FORD FALCON
I KNOW I SAW IT TOO
@@Lotus-S70 LETS GO!
@@atotallyrandomgamer9332 AYY
I agree with you for most things but If you remove the catalytic converted and attach a pipe with a larger diameter instead of a regular exhaust pipe you gain for sure more power as long as the exhaust valves for the zylinder head and the exhaust manifold allow a higher gas flow through a straight pipe. If the exhaust valves, the zylinderhead or the exhaust manifold are restircting the exhauste flow then even the largest exhaust pipe want bring you anything.
This is simply because the piston needs less force to push the burnt fuel out of the burning chamber when the exhaust has to be pushed through a smalller pipe which creates backpressure.
The lower force needed to push the exhaust out of the chamber is the torque you gain by this method.
In a extremly simplified model you can use the law of Hagen-Poiseuille which state that the pressure decreases to the power of 4 by the increase of the radius by the factor 2.
Therefore, the larger the diameter of the exhauste the lower the backpressure. This means that the piston does not have to apply such a high force to get ride of the exhaust and overall you gain more torque.
Furthermore, less exhaust is left in the burning chamber and a higher amount of oxygen is in the burning chamber and therefore more gas can be burnt which increases the power even more.
This is also the reason why supercars have mostly a exhaust with a flap that opens as soon as you want the full power of the car.
You can easily try this at home. Take a bottle filled with water then make a 1 mm diameter hole in the lid. Now push the water out and stop the time.
Now you repeat this but instead of a 1 mm diameter you now emove the lid and push the water out of the bottle. The bottle without lid will empty much faster than the one with the small hole in the lid. This is also true for the exhaust even thoug the behaviour is not excatly to the the law of Hagen-Poiseuille because these are gases and the formula must be modified for this.
I’m slapping a leaf blower on my stock accord for POWER
5:15 Ayeee, that's the same dyno the MCM boys have used many times.
for my vehicle i had to replace the exhaust system because its y pipe literally rotted in the middle beneath the engine. i cut it off and ran open headers until i got a new x pipe setup. the open headers was just stupid loud with no tone. the x pipe although a bit quieter just sounds so much better. i didnt notice any power differences.
Bladed thank you so much for making this video. I've continuously came back to it before ordering or thinking about getting parts so it's nice to have a reference on what to get.
You know that when moms start putting roof spoilers on their mercedes/land rovers that its just for looks
Actually on a land rover a roof spoiler would work since they are all SUV's it would be placed on the end of the body of the car i think.
AMG has entered the chat
5:14 love the inclusion of the G6E turbo falcon
i’m just here for good content tbh
You ain't gonna find any here unfortunately.
F
@@BladedAngel 🧢
Just a note, while eBay desk fans claiming to be electric superchargers don't do anything, electric superchargers (with 15-20hp electric motors and 48V+ electrical systems) are currently used in production vehicles (ex. in the current Audi 3.0T motor to provide boost while the turbo is out of boost).
For the straight pipe example, The reason why engineers make the pipe small is because it reduces the amount of metal needed to make the exhaust, i.e cost and also to get more precise measurements for the oxygen sensors and catalytic converter. The volume flow rate, Q is not going to change, You're going to get the same momentum out of each diameter pipe for the same amount of force, using the continuity equation. yes there is going to be different pressures in the pipe, and different velocities, but its not necessary to have higher pressures, unless you're doing it for the sensors. I'm in engineering btw
When Bladed uploads its a good day no matter what
Every like equals one happy point for us
Yeahh boiii!!! New bladed video
Listen, I can’t help how much I love the convenience of just hacking off the muffler. It’s loud, and I like it. However, you are absolutely correct about the exhaust pressure, hence to why I would never get bigger pipes.
TLDR; I like loud car.
Yea but if you paint a car and get a scratch you gotta repaint that whole section again
No you don’t. You use polish and a new coat of clear. Ez.
@@tk_gunteralan and if the polish doesn’t get the scratch out your fucked
My dude... that thick fog on the highway brings back pleasant memories of a night when me and a few friends went on a vacation... the weather was just like that. And we all had a blast.
I've done some research for the older cars getting benefit and it is true. Theoretically if I bought a better tune for my 305 tpi I could increase horsepower a good amount and the cold air intake would actually benefit me because stock injection iroc camaros have a very restricted intake system
My parents got chips for their late 80's Tbird turbo. It definitely improved fuel economy and power.
Well it's that the intake runner length is long for low end torque so the air charger is lacking above 5000 rpm I've go a 350 tpi
I've got 2 mods that, when paired will make you win all the races! Interior mounted rv Blindspot mirrors and a custom horn setup to play "LEROY JENKINS!"
And while my opponent is laughing their ass off I can Flintstone it to the finish line!
Hey @Bladed Angel , I’ve actually seen that the roof spoiler specifically on the GD Chassis STi actually does make a difference because it directs air to the high spoiler. Not sure if it’s 100% legit, but it would make sense compared to other cars using it. Lmk what you think!
You'd think after flowing past the roof spoiler the air would be really turbulent when it got to the wing. I might see if I can find any wind tunnel testing for that
I appreciate that your example of a dyno tune is a G6E Turbo
I have a question about straight pipes
You explained in this video, that if i installed a thicc straigh tube in my grocery getter i wouldn't gain anything at all, but what about more powerful cars with like 350+ horsepower, will installing a big straight pipe do anything good with higher power engines?
I think 350+ hp cars have a good enough exhaust system to be more effective than a straight pipe
Yes with an engine that has higher displacement or revs and pushes out more exhaust fumes is generally gonna need bigger exhaust, also, unless you have Clout syndrome, there is absolutely no need for a straight pipe, mufflers will rob you 10HP generally (depends really, on new cars it's a much smaller difference and there are so many variables which I couldn't get into even if I wanted to) and hell, it's possible to have 0HP loss muffler systems that are reasonably quiet (you would have 0 problems passing noise regs).
Any car could benefit from a straight pipe just you need to know what size you need to keep the back pressure
@@hubertkam7647 don't lie to them. No car can benefit from straightpiping. All it does is make you loud, annoying, and triggering for people with PTSD.
@@Megidramon "triggering for people with PTSD" massive reach there mate
Anybody remember when roadkill stuffed like five leaf blowers into a car and made life 100 hp? That video was so cool
hey bladed have you ever thought about having 2 cars at once?
Who do you think he is? Drew Peacock?
he does i think
he has the corvette and the miata
1. Pretty sure this guy is being sarcastic
2. If you have watched alot of the other vids/ vlogs it shows that he has the vette, his mustang 5.0 that he recently repaired and I think he has a Lexus or some other sedan
@@matthewsinclair507 yes
/s
Any time I see bald tires on a car, 99% of the time being at the local junkyard, I'd *jokingly* go "dems some slicks."
But the fact that there's actually people out there who think they're actual racing slicks just makes me question the brains of any human being on this planet who somehow thinks that's the case.
My favorite of those "junkyard slicks" being a bald Prius donut spare.
I’ll say this though, i had a ported intake manifold and later bored my throttle body + spacer and port matched it to my IM and it’s given some decent improvements in regards to thermals (haven’t flowbenched it so I cant confirm air flow improvements yet), not enough to feel but it’s there.
Now unless I’m driving hard for a while I can comfortably place my hand on my intake manifold and not melt my skin lol
I was actually happy vortex generators was mentioned, because some people claim it's just a ricer mod, but it's actually scientifically proven to do things with aerodynamics. Basically vortexed air followes curves better and also due to to turbulence has less surface friction and flows faster. This is why you see cars today using things even like the body lines and side mirror shapes to create small vortices in order to reduce drag and gain mpg... And on the leading edges of plane wings (and Pikes Peak trial car wings), because that sped up air is less dense, creating lift on the plane wings, and downforce on the car wings). You see the vortex generators on STIs and EVOs because they're causing the wind to follow the back window, which at first would create lift, EXCEPT that air the those massive rear spoilers and it creates downforce in the spoiler. For a pickup truck, vortex generators would cause less drag on your back window as the vortexed air separates in a more streamlined fashion from your roof edge vs a dirty eddy of air dragging on your back window. Couple that with a bed topper and tailgate spoiler (reducing drag on your tailgate by moving the separation point and eddy further away from and therefore having less pull on your tailgate, you'll have more mpg & higher possible top speed, as well as faster acceleration at elevated speeds due to less drag (so you can pass those slowpokes holding up traffic quicker!)
Question: I have a 2.5in stock exhaust on my 2017 optima, would a 2.5in straight pipe, with a stock cat, be an ok mod?
Put a resonator in right before the rear axle so you don't get serious in cabin exhaust drone.
whats the point if youre keeping the same diameter? if you want it to sound different then you have to go without a muffler, cat, or both but that will sound like ass. the most i would to keep it from being a rice rod would be removing the cat and thats it. just keep on the resonator and muffler (or the expensive route, get a high quality muffler, a skunk2 muffler makes a honda sound pretty nice, no loud ass bee noises)
It really depends on WHICH flash tuner it is. MHD, which is famously known for BMW engines like N54, S55, B58, and S58, offers OTS tunes as well as the ability to create custom dyno tunes using the platform. Some flashers are simplers and more general (like you said, model instead of your SPECIFIC car), while others will allow you to create custom tunes that will make the most out of your personal setup.
Straight pipes actually work on turbocharged cars…the best exhaust for a turbocharged car is no exhaust.
Ehhhhh, the engine being turbo'd won't really make a straight pipe the better choice, you should think of it more as exhaust size dependence on how much gas you're pushing out of the engine. There is a way to make a muffler system that costs you 0HP while being reasonably quiet. And on no exhaust, while yeah you can have no exhaust and see gains over your average exhaust system, an actual well designed exhaust system won't hurt, plus it's not a very good idea to have hot powerful exhaust gasses go under your car for aero reasons.
Slowly becoming my favorite channel
Can't wait to slap a leaf blower on my mom's Ford S max and start gapping Corvettes. I just need to find the corvettes
Make sure to find a good leaf blower too. In fact, find 2
TWINCHARGED LEAFBLOWERS
@@BladedAngel but that's gonna produce so much heat!
Never mind, I have a way to cool them
THIRD LEAFBLOWER!
I will do the same with my dads c-max and jk and I live in America.
"Never under estimate the power of stupid"
Trust, if people do this with their cars, imagine how they do everything else in life. Golden quote!
Wouldn't you need a 'V' engine to have an X-pipe tho? I'm not fan of straightpipes either, but good luck putting an X-pipe on an inline or a rotary.
Yeah that's what I was thinking, it kinda just doesn't really work.
Of course you can't, but that's not the point. The point is, in general, X/H piping is A) safer b)mo powa babeh c) better for your vehicle.
If you have an inline, just get a better exhaust system.
@@Megidramon I'm going to straight pipe my civic and redline it through residential neighbourhoods at 3 am and nobody can stop me!
Some inline engines, mostly 6 bangers, use two separate headers (one for the first three, and another for the last three cylinders), these can run x/h pipes, true duals, etc.
@@wolfgang_h3t I've owned quite a few i6s and all of them had headers that came out in two sets of three but merged into one before the end, can you give me an example of a car with the setup you're talking about cus I'd be interested
Purchased my Eibach lowering springs and had them installed by a great mechanic at Sears in Gurnee, IL. They dropped the car 1 & 1/2 inches and it looks fantastic and became super-sure footed in curves. The Eibachs handle rapid acceleration and braking extremely well. Replacing the coil packs after 98000 miles increased hp by 20. Removing the resonator also increased throttle response (lag time no longer exists). switching to Premium ARCO fuel instead of the manufacturer's politically correct 87 octane recommendation. Results: Higher top end speed, mpg +5 over manufacturer's window sticker, super-fast throttle response. I love what these changes have done for the vehicle.
A short ram intake can be useful depending on application. More air is always better. Think of a sbc literally flipping top of air cleaner over making poor man’s cold air intake increases hp a measurable amount like 5hp and that’s in same spot it was same temp air as before just more.
Again it depends on what car it is. More air is only better if that's the bottleneck in the system. But just because there is "more air" doesn't mean that a car has the fueling or mapping to take advantage of it. Also the bottleneck could very well just be in the head anyway.
So some cars pick up some hp from it and some see worse performance compared to stock.
@@christopherjohnston6343 pretty much every newer vehicle’s computer will make necessary adjustments for a simple air intake alone. And no vehicle after 1996 odb 2 requirement will not have enough fueling to handle the extra air from just an intake it’s not like your adding boost lmao. Stock heads will always be a bottle neck eventually along with everything else in the engine will be. It’s rare for more air to atomize fuel more being a bad thing and when there’s the few situations where there’s no gains or a loss it’s so small it’s within +\- averages you would see normally anyways if you dyno the vehicle 10 times in a row. And any engine that’s carbureted it’s going to be better 99% of the time.
The point of short ram intake is not to take in colder air. It's to reduce air flow restriction. Whether of not that makes a measurable difference depends on your set up. Heat could offset the benefit. You can make an equation for this
Thank you for this. There are plenty of people who scream "hot air intake" but like you said it's totally dependent on your setup. Particularly on a forced induction system, of you have a properly set up intercooling system the temp difference between a "hot air intake" and a cold air intake at the intake manifold (after the cooler) is negligible. Sure the sooner temp may be better but complexity may not be better in the long run.
3:19 What if you have front mounted intercooler and that hoodscoop method COMNINED.(on a drag car ofc)
You mean like both having a front and top mounted intercoolers? If so, you'd just be wasting your time as you'd add twice the weight for 5 more HP at best (assuming one of your intercoolers is adequately sized). And if you mean having just a front intercooler with a hood scoop well then how in the bloody hell will you route the scoop to the intercooler, plus as long as you have sufficient flow through the bumper into the intercooler then there is absolutely no need for more flow through it.
@@skeptix_store As in twincharged cars which have ZERO reliability.(*cough*cough* zenvo)
Top mount vs. Front mount intercoolers. The front mount is technically more efficient at cooling, but can very slightly reduce throttle response vs. A top mount intercooler. More piping, and more air flow cause intake air temps to be better, but the added piping can reduce throttle response because the air has to travel farther. Tho the throttle response changes are usually negligible. And the lower IATs can be a bit of a benefit actually
Bladed educating the kids 👍
He's not lying about the leaf blower part lmao
@13:47 that “race car” stuff idk if you were tryna be funny or what but I’m dying🤣🤣
The way you say bald tires cracks me up!😂🤣😂
"200 HP grocery getter" dude hurt my feelings a bit, I thought my 200 hp were cool...
So a regular performance tune is like buying a suit from a store, it's nice but has room for improvement, while a dyno tune is like a tailored suit, meant to fit exact specifications.