BiB Brothers in Boots Vol 16 detailed discussion on What is HERITAGE boots

Volume 16 of boot discussion with Mike & Jeff. This volume specifically is about discussing what really is HERITAGE boots
#heritage #veldschoen #Norweign #Norweignrolledwelt #welt #handwelt #gyw #goodyear #goodyearwelt #rib #canvas #Flora #flamepanda #whitekloud #Kreosote #tahura #gabbard #roleclub #brianthebootmaker #briselblack #willies #renav #passthrough #ShinkiHikaku #Shinki #Tochigi #LederOgawa #ogawa #galun #japan #indonesia #indonesian #philippines #filipino #willies #renav #tahura #horsestrip #horseshoulder #doubleshoulder #horsehair #last #lasts #gabbard #Kreosote #cobbler #cobblers #truman #stitchdown #viberg #stridewise #bootspy #thunderdome #Beck #buck #drews #bakers #danner #thorogood #wolverine #grantstone #alden #thursday #roseanvil #ironmaiden #iron #eddie #keen #carolina #georgia #roleclub #spokane #boots #pnw #franks #franksboots #whites #nicks #jk #jkboots #nicksboots #handmade #mto #tanker #seidel #horween #wickettandcraig #law #lawtannery #Dublin #shell #predator #nba #nfl #mlb #cfstead #maryum #temper #pnwboots #wesco #cxl #chrome #vibram #drsoles #dalesleatherworks #siedel #mexico #cordovan #shoulder #cow #bison #calf #shrunken

[@Diego.E.D]

There is one thing: back in the day, there were a lot of cobblers; my Father told me so, and the shoes or boots were resoled several times, it was not a thing to throw the shoes or boots and buy new ones typically were attach new half soles that were the way to go to assure the longevity of the footwear.

[@righturnclyde]

Great video. Touched on some things I’ve been thinking about with the 270 vs 180. I’m rebuilding some Whites and don’t really want to do the 270 for aesthetics.

[@nathanellis1490]

Thanks for another great video guys, I always look forward to these. Kick ass shirt Jeff!! Iron Maiden is my favorite band- I have three or four of their shirts myself

[@cloveroak5492]

Up the Irons! 🤘

[@Morris1962]

Great episode as always, thanks for doing these. You guys could write a lengthy book on the boot world with all your knowledge, and then update it every five years or so.
As a fellow car guy, I also have the habit of comparing everything to cars, when I hear it from some one else I immediately know what they are talking about.

[@cloveroak5492]

Car guys rule! 👊

[@Morris1962]

These questions are open to anyone reading the comment section:
I am thinking about getting a Ryker boot from Frank's. This will be my first pair of custom boots, and I am in a hot southern state.
What are your thoughts on waxed flesh as a leather that can do it all in a hot environment? Natural or brown is available now.
What canvas color would you choose? I hope to get one in a single layer (not doubled up) as you guys advised, but I don't know what is available or what would look good.
The waxed flesh leathers has me interested as it is lighter weight (better for heat), was used in early versions of military desert boots (possibly an indication of suitability and durability for hot environments), and has an outer surface that can be somewhat reconditioned after minor scuffing with Venetian Shoe Cream.
I have spent countless hours polishing military boots and shoes with Kiwi wax (didn't know any better then) and I don't want to do that ever again, but being able to polish a boot to be business casual looking and get more use out of it is very appealing to me. The satin sheen and somewhat uniform/monochromatic look of waxed flesh when new or redone is why I think it could pass as being dressier than others.

[@cloveroak5492]

Great questions, and you are definitely on the right track IMO.
WF is actually CXL turned inside out. Or to say it differently it is RO CXL that has been heavily waxed to look very smooth. So it is no better or no worse than CXL, which is pretty popular leather that is great in many climates. WF is great for avoiding scratches, and great for looking distressed. Your Military superiors would HATE them. 🤣
But in short I love the choice. Natural and Brown are both great colors.
Canvas.....Franks (and really almost everyone ordering in colored canvas) orders in #8, which is 18oz. Why? Overall in the world it is a very popular weight, and as such manufacturers cater to that offering it is many colors. #8 is strong enough for, and often used for, things such as director chairs, HD clothes, backpacks, awnings, tarps, tents, bags, etc. But once Frank's started getting it in and playing with it, they decided it wasn't enough for their arguably over built boots. So they decided to double it up, and to put a diagonal stitch through it. This works very well, nothing wrong with it, but as I've said it is not my preference. There are 2 ways to avoid that. Option number 1 is to back the canvas with leather using glue. This will still be thinner, cooler, and more flexible, than a typical PNW boot, but won't be as thin, cool, flexible as the 2 layers of canvas. The positive for this is that it widens your color choices by quite a bit. Option number 2 is to find a thicker canvas. Personally I chose the second option. I chose #4 canvas, which is 24oz. It gets used in higher quality director chairs, more HD clothing, sand bags, belting, and hammocks. I found a #4 in the green I wanted that I bought and had mailed to them. A friend that also geeks out on PNW boots (Nob) was thinking the same as me and ordered in a natural color. (Which is what I used on my Blue Palisades and what I used on another pair that will be arriving soon.
Canvas color....that seems kinda personal preference. but is you go that #2 route you will DEFINETELY be very limited there. I love the Natural, which is almost white. I've done 2 boots with it, and if they have run out of what Nob ordered they might be willing to order more. The pair I have coming are of a similar color to what you are looking at and I chose Natural. The emerald green #4 I ordered in myself for Frank's to use I think would also look great with your leather choices. You are welcome to use mine if there is enough left over. If you don't like those you will have to do a deep dive on #4 canvas and see if you can find a color that speaks to you, and then order it is yourself. If you do I suggest having it dropshipped to Frank's instead of going to yourself first to save you some shipping cost and hassle. If you do talk to Michelle first and she will probably want the package to come to her attention.
There will be elbow grease involved in trying to get that WF to lay back down and look as sooth as new when the RO starts sticking up, but you are no doubt up to the task.
I look forward to seeing them...

[@Morris1962]

@@cloveroak5492 Thank you so much for your thorough reply, I will keep this in my notes for when I make my order.

[@Bootlosophy]

What period would you consider heritage? Jeff mentioned a Time Machine going to 1940 but why not 1910 or even 1960?

[@cloveroak5492]

Great question. I guess we'd need to define the difference between Heritage, and such words as Historical, or antique, period wear? Feudal shoes? Colonial shoes?
Heritage wear to me is a time period I don't think existed yet in 1910, and I think was already define by 1960. Not that heritage wear wasn't still being made in the 60's, but I think it was a staple that stuck around by then and therefore already defined.
But it is certainly an area for healthy debate and pondering.

[@seedubhuntx]

I forgot if this has been talked bout before, do the "plugs" on cats paw or dr sole actually do anything? or do the marketed "extend when u put weight on it" thing?

[@Mike-BiB]

In the past yes they were a harder rubber to help resist wear on the modern ones it does it seem like it does much but rubber compounds have come a long way.