Voron M4 Extruder Build Guide-DIY belted bowden extruder with BMG gears
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 25 ต.ค. 2020
- STLs, BOM and manual can be found at vorondesign.com/voron_m4
Sourcing guide is linked in the BOM
(Yes I keep calling it mobius 4, officially its the voron m4, potato potato)
I NOW HAVE A TWITTER, follow me @ / 3dpnero
vorondesign.com/ for all things voron and links to the discord
Purchase an SKR mini e3 via banggood via my affilate link and help support the channel
www.banggood.com/custlink/333... - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
My god, so many development from the Voron dev. Everytime I look around on discord, there is something new.
Excellent video as usual
just got done making one, as watching your video as tutorial. good video. just a quick hint. those small spacer that gets printed, print two rather than one. put spacers on both side and when you assemble you do not need to hold the shaft from coming out.
That is a Beast of extruder! Great design by Voron Team!
Lots of great ideas! the only change I'd make is to add some grips to the 80 tooth wheel so I can turn it easier during manual feed. Must be great for flexibles with that 4:1 ratio
Ive manually fed it by simply grabbing the 80t and spinning, no harm
However if you wanted to could easily extend the 5mm rod and add a knob
Thanks, great explanation.
Greetings from Munich, Tom.
Great design 👍
Thanks for sharing 👍😊
Reminds me of MXL Quick Release Belt Drive feeder.
by ProtomakerSprint July 07, 2016
I am going to print this one next week. Really nice design.
Have fun!
Loving this, I really want it on my Ender 3 Pro. The assembly seems straight-forward and the BOM is cheap af.
Facts!!!
Is it possible to use both the M4 as a bowden extruder, but also use the afterburner for the quick change and mounting functionality? I thought I saw something like it on your Switchwire conversion
Your prints look very smooth, at what resolution and feedrate did you print them?
I do not know the settings Nero 3d uses but here are the recommended settings from vorondocs
Layer height: 0.2mm.
Extrusion width: 0.4mm, forced.
Infill pecentage: 40%
Infill type: grid, gyroid, honeycomb, triangle, or cubic.
Wall count: 4.
Solid top/bottom layers: 5.
Supports: NONE.
Things are good!
Only you can't see what's inside.
I would like to see how the bar crushes.
Awesome video, bud! Do you have a linked BOM somewhere? I have not been able to find the BMG Extruder Spring and was wondering if you could point me in the right direction.
Should be in the BOM vorondesign.com
@@CanuckCreator yes! Found everything there 🙂
i just bought all the parts for the 3.1, aside from the brass inserts, are there other bom parts that changed in this version? also, is this meant to be retrofitted to the back of v0? that would be amazing
"Upgrading" from my M3.1 as well, haven't assembled it yet, but printed all the M4 part already (except the 80 tooth gear, since it's the same I think). I don't think there's anything else than the inserts that change.
is this type right hand or type left hand where I can get an M4 extruder file like this
those little 3d torque wrenches you printed could work to torque the screws correctly?
I guess if you really wanted too, i've never torqued screws to a set amount when assembling printers/extruders.
Omg, your parts look so nice! Can I print this in PETG instead of ABS?
You may get by for awhile with petg..if you do let us know how it goes
Doing it in petg myself hope to get all the parts together in a couple weeks.
@@CanuckCreator what about tough resin?
Have you tried the orbiter? How do the two compare weight-wise and performance-wise?
I have one on the way
hey men tnx for helpfully Video, Can u shair the CAD or STL file ? BCS i can't download it from Main Voron web page... thank u
What esteps for klipper should i use for m4?
can anybody tell me that did the idler dont have needle bearing inside or its just rolls on greased shaft
These flanged bearings are a lil hard to get in less quantities. Use of more readily available bearings would be great.
And please let me know any alternatives to the bearings is it okay it it dosent have the flange?
Unfortunately with the design the way it is, moving to a flangeless bearing would require thicker bearings and printed parts increasing the size of the extruder. The bearings where choosing as they are used in other place in voron builds so part of the "voron toolbox"
If I were to use a longer stepper motor (same torque, 42 mm long) would there be any issue? Also, can I just use an 80T aluminum pulley?
No issues with a bigger motor. Heaving 80t may require more tuning of.settings and lower acceleration due to increased mass
Great video, I printed all the parts as instructed on the manual, they fit perfectly. But I have an annoying issue with inner dimensions of the parts, flanged bearings not fit on their places, I can't solve this problem. Overall dimensions are accurate, but inner ones are a bit tight. (measured with a quality digital caliper)
you could heat the bearing and melt it into place, lul
@@joshuavincent7884 Some inner details are just there for plastic assembly, and what do you suggest for flanged bearing?
@@CagkanCakir you could try sanding out the ID a bit
hello Sir, nice video, can i print the parts with PETG instead of ABS ?
PETG would work but it's more brittle than ABS or PLA. I suggest PLA+. Heck I use PLA and PLA+ for all my 3D printer parts. I've had zero failures even around the hotend with good air movement nothing has ever melted or warped. I'm currently working on totally redoing an old rescued Anet A6 from all Bright Green PLA and making it more of a Prusa i3 except for the mainframe. Makes for great videos!
Very interesting extruder design, considering building one. What are the advantages compared to the original or cloned BMG extruder?
4:1 gearing. And belted for backlash and noise reduction.
@@CanuckCreator isn't the gearing the opposite was round though, this pulley system reduces torque doesn't it?
@@KindOfyeah the gearing on the m4 increases torque. Also accuracy due to increased steps per mm
Would someone PLEASE post a pic of how and where to mount this beast on my 2.4?
Silly question but which of these parts needed support in the printing procedure?
None. All are designed to be printed without support
@@CanuckCreator thank you very much :)
Does the filament input hole also have a PTFE coupler that wasn't installed in this video?
I use a drybox that feeds out a PTFE tube so its sealed. Anything i use needs a PTFE input coupler as well.
There is no couple there. But the hole on the button is design to be tight on a ptfe tube and since this feeds in. Its stays in place well. This is how its setup on the afterburner toolhead on my v2 and its never come out
Prefer a PTFE coupler to be honest. With anything 3d printing if it can screw up and unfastened things tend to have a very high chance it will.
Easy to modify with 0 CAD skills
Use a cylinder edit mesh overlay in cura add heaps more walls drill to size for coupler then thread one in. Are the CAD files open source by any chance?
@@Side85Winder im not the original designer. As ive said. So far in other setups this has not been an issue on the intake side. But i so believe the cad is on the github if you wish to modify
Is there a way to purchase the parts printed in ABS? I don't really have a good printer for ABS yet. Would PETG work or is that not recommended?
you could probably print it with pla, and as long as your stepper driver doesn't run too hot it should last long enough to get the ABS prints done
@@SettlingAbyss96 I have two Vorons now. 😁
someone has a link to the collets? i searched for them in amazon and aliexpress but cannot findthem
Not exactly the same but an item that works can be found at Oozenest in the UK. Search for "e3d embedded bowden coupler"
EDIT - make sure you get the one with the brass ring, not the black all plastic one...
Roughly how much does it cost, excluding the motor?
Depends on your location and where you source parts from. For example using components from aliexpress a sub 30$ price is possible
Hello, I'm new on your channel. What about sherpa extruder on the Voron 2.4? Is it possible to use it?
atm there is no mount for the sherpa on the v2.4, just the zero
The internals of the sherpa are near the same as a BMG geared drive only with a spur gear on a nema 14 vs the current setup. So other than a bit of weight savings there isnt much mechanically different.
@@CanuckCreator fully assembled (NEMA included) sherpa is more or less 110gr. I suppose that a complete BMG is almost the double.
@@bigsubful Its heavier yes, but with a well built printer with a proper tune, weight isnt as much impact as it used to be, a nema17 clock work is 190g ish
@@CanuckCreator btw, I'm planning to made my voron 2.4 and, as I can see in the net, I think it's a good printer. Many thanks
were would be the best place to source the gears
Powge on aliexpress is a good source
nice, why nema17 most printers use nema 14
Nema17 is the standard for most 3d printers at the consumer level actually. Nema 14s are smaller and usually only seen on really cheap entry level printers
google drive dowload link or every social media ...
I am a noob in 3D printing and maybe this video isn't that relevant anymore by the time I made this comment (1 year ago) but for what it does, isn't this is a little bit over-complicated? Can anyone tell me why it's designed like this compared to ordinary bowden extruder? Sorry if this is a stupid question
Also, can you print the parts with PLA?
Everything was designed and tested for ABS parts, it MAY work in PLA but hasnt been tested
@@CanuckCreator thanks! Time to get done ABS filament :) also, apart from this being really cool looking, diy friendly cheaper, more silent and having 4:1 gear ratio vs the bmg extruded, there are no other benefits for this, right?
@@dskochhar1 I'd say it being mostly composed of printed or standard parts, it's more likely to be repairable/long lived.
@@Penofhell great point! Didn’t think about that :)
Why did you go with this instead of going with BMG?
Higher gearing ration and the advantage of belted is quieter/zero backlash. Also some people just like building things.
У меня тоже BMG ( direct ) но хотелось бы передаточного числа больше чем 1/3 , например 1/6 - тогда бы не нужно было устанавливать активный радиатор на мотор и снизить напряжение на драйвере на 0,1V или на 0,2V , также ременная передача будет гораздо безшумнее в работе . К сожалению придётся моделировать самостоятельно и сделать более миниатюрную версию и желательно добавить ещё 1 пару шестерен ....
Do you think it's possible to downsample your stereo voice to a single channel? It's quite distracting as a headphone user (who also is hard of hearing on one side)
Sorry about that, I will make it a point to do that going forward
@@CanuckCreator Hey man no need to apologize! It's an awesome and clear video don't let this minor thing shadow that :D
FYI, there's a "Mono Audio" mode in Windows 10 that can do this for you (search in the settings). And my Samsung S8 at least has this as well within the accessibility options. I think that's standard on all newer Android devices at least.
@@zapl80 Interesting, I'll look into that, thank you :)
It is nice, but why is it geared? I have seen. Allt lf extruders and most of them do not need any gear. The nema 17 is a strong motor ..if you dont get the filament pushed it is wrong temp and speed
Gearing the extruder allows for more accuracy
@@CanuckCreator yes..theoretically but i have never ever had any accuracy problems with 2 cm figurines without it.. just adjust the steps correctly, use retraction ( and for bowden at least 5 mm as it flexes..and you dont really need it .. i dont see any gain in it really and especially not in high speed
I've seen recent videos showing poor performance from Bondtech parts due to runout or eccentricity due to off center holes in the gears. Even a perfect gear will become off center when the set screw is tightened. It would seem that pressing these gears on a shaft with an interference fit or gluing them to the shaft would avoid the problem introduced by the set screw. The Bondtech idler also introduces error in the extrusion flow. Replacing the idler gear with a small ball bearing has been shown to work. Check out the video: th-cam.com/video/moSZ05FkLQU/w-d-xo.html I would rather buy an accurately produced large pulley from Stock Drive Products than try to print that part. It seem unlikely the printed part will be good enough.
This video covers an thing that happens with pretty much any extruder that uses a drive gear attached to a stepper motor shaft, if there is any size difference between the ID of the gear and the OD of the drift shaft this will lead to a slight wobble. This isnt strickly a bondtech related issue.
Its a bowden system, if you're that worried about the extremely tiny tolerances being an issue on the drive gear, you should see how bad the tolerances between the bowden tube and filament are. The filament being able to move inside the bowden tube, or even the inconsistent diameter of the filament will be far more noticeable. I think this would only be noticeable in a direct drive system where there is almost no room for the filament to move around
Why do you not show the loctite ? It is not well known, people need to know it !
The point that voron parts are overingenering is true. This can be solved by add bigger gear directly on motor shaft. Safe money, time and parts.
no
I think it's pronounced "potato potato"
Psssh. Tomato tomato