Thank you very much for this. I have only recently stumbled across your channel and, as a newcomer to both Nerf and electronics, I cannot tell you how valuable I have found your tutorials; it's fantastic to have something explained so clearly without assumption of prior knowledge. Please keep up the good work.
Wow, i opted for 130 neo cans instead of 180s because i was intimidated by needing to use a transistor rather than a snap action switch. This is easy as pie! Thanks for the tutorial!
GeneralLee131 It’s even easier with a pre loaded FET board or through hole board, UKnerfwar does those in the UK, OOD has pre made boards in the US. Some modern 130’s pull way more current than old 180’s, especially new mag 130’s. Can size is no indicator of current draw.
This made the Stryfe I just bought and modded much neater than it would have been otherwise, since I had some MOSFETS I was going to use for something but the plans ended up falling through. This video's pretty great, thanks.
Thank you so much for your great guides. I took your advice on the BSUK rapidstrike switch plate and wired it using your new rapidstrike wiring guide. I am using your MOSFET build in a new rapidstrike to keep the stock switches and plate.
You will only be able to keep the stock rev trigger, the cycle control ones break all the time and you can't use a mosfet on its own for the pusher, you need a more complex set up for that.
Couldn't have timed this video better: I was in the process of designing a revised MOSFET circuit this week and you just saved me the trouble of trial and error. Wouldn't be surprised at all to see this being commonly used in the near future. Thanks for posting this.
This has helped me get an understanding of a MOSFET, I'm still not confident enough to do all the wiring and get it all right, but I've got much more of an idea of how they work and what they do, especially the reasons for using them.
great video, I really prefer the idea of keeping the stock switch and doing an electrical mod rather than a largely mechanical one. Also, there's no chemical reaction happening inside a MOSFET. It's all semi-conductor electronics. I know it doesn't matter to you, but to electronics people it's like nails on the chalkboard hearing someone get that wrong.
Seeing as this was 5 years ago, are there better options now? I'm going to take on the Nerf M41 Pulse Rifle. I want to keep the sound effects and amo counter but I'm going to throw a 3S lipo in it and flywheel cage with rinos. Do you know if anyone has tried it and maybe they have a wiring diagram?
I would ask around Facebook groups like Nerfmodders welcome. The best option to keep the sound effects is to copy my Jyn Eros build and separate the sound from the propulsion and use a voltage dropper to run the sound at 5v. There are also integrated MOSFET circuit boards now, that are all set up ready to fit. Out of Darts has lots of different ones. The parts scene has really exploded since I made these videos. Likewise motors, there are some very good 3s and 2s options now, have a good look around before you decide on motor choice.
In the Jyn Erso blaster wiring loom, the blue wire going to the mosfet is shown to be wired to the common pin on the standard rev micro switch,not the red wire, as seen in this tutorial. Can you elaborate whats the difference between this Stryfe loom and the Erso loom. Its a bit conjfusing for a first time modder, thanks.
It does not matter which way round you wire the Common or Normally Open, the switch works the same with the red and blue on either, it’s just a switch. As long as one goes to the FET and one comes from the battery then it will work. If using a different switch just be sure NOT to use a Normally Closed, since that will mean it revs all the time or not at all depending on where you put the other wire! The Jyn Erso loom requires a separate voltage regulated circuit to operate the light and sound, the firing part is the same as a Stryfe but the two are different overall.
If making a Stryfe with standard two pin rev switch then it doesn’t matter which way round NO and C are on the Nerf switch. If making a Jyn erso the rev switch doesn’t matter but polarity for the light/sound bit is very important.
Yes doing multiple Ersos. Doing a performance version with custom paint. Then a vanilla LiPO version blacked out for Star Wars cosplay. The other two Ersos are for spares, seeing as I'm unaware if everything made for the stryfe is interchangeable with the Erso, motor cage/block etc. Thank you for your assistance and videos.
All the Stryfe flywheels fit the JE as do all the 130 size motors like Fang RV/Neo Rhino etc, the flywheel cage is different, OFP do a JE cage but I am unimpressed with it and printed cages in general. You can get 130fps out the stock JE cage with Fangs and Bulldog or Hooligan flywheels. I like the form of it better than the Stryfe.
Does the Voltage or wattage matter for the 10K OHM resistor, the same for the Rectifier re volts & amps? I noticed they have different ratings. Also what are the connectors/adapters you're using? Thank you for all the detail you provide in your videos, as I am in the same boat as BB (Bob Baker)
Wattage rating of the 10k makes no difference. Diode- you need an IN5400. Connectors are JST for low current like LEDs, signal current for the FET, then Deans for the motor block and XT60 for the pack. Britnerf standardised these along with wire colours back in 2012.
So as I've learned more about Mosfets, motors, relays, switches, etc. I've started to wonder... even if we aren't using a MOSFET, wouldn't including a flyback diode across the motor part of the loom just be helpful in general? Like, wouldn't it also make regular switches potentially live longer too?
Micah Miller Switches are bi directional, so BEMF doesn’t really cause them a problem plus it occurs after you release the trigger and the contacts are open. A flyback diode should certainly be included in any circuit with a micro controller or other more sensitive components in.
Hi mate, I am watching your work and learning a lot as I go so thank you, I am about to start a stryfe build using MTB Neo-Hellcats and am wondering what mosfet setup you would recommend.....am I right in thinking I can still use the same resistor and diode as in this video and then just replace the mosfet switch with a 120A version?
You would certainly want the 120A FET. Maybe even bigger. Both Uknerfwar and Out of Darts, plus a couple of other suppliers now do much higher current FET set ups, some with an integrated circuit board to make wiring easier. The community has moved the tech on a lot since I did these videos.
Oh wow, ok I see what you mean, the britnerf version looks like it's something you do inline rather than ontop of the motors like the out of darts one....is that correct? If so I think I'd prefer that rather than the extra volume ontop of 180 motors
Ok out of darts want 50 bucks postage for a 10 dollar board and britnerf won't post to Australia....might be out of luck using a board so I might just have to do it the old school way
I just finished wiring up honeybadgers in my hyperfire using two MOSFETs as shown in this video. it worked sweet. huge reduction in case mods needed, wired so that the pushed can not engage before reving to minimize jams. I even retained the safety switch of the jam door, I did get rid of the clip switch however
Foamdata Services I guess I was to specific. I just needed a diagram of a motor braking circuit that utilizes MOSFETs. I found one in an airsoft forum. thanks
I'm a little confused by the ending. Are you saying that it can take a lipo or not? Also, I realize the point is to skip the trigger switch swap, but will it still work with a 10A switch? What interests me is the idea of swappable power sources.
This loom allows you to run any motors up to 60A burst. Motor choice is what drives power sources, they draw the current required by the load placed upon them from the pack, up to their stall current. The pack does not "push" current to the motors. You can run this set up with any switch you like, from a 2c special up to a 21A Omron or Cherry DC2. Input voltage is likewise irellevant, it will work on 5-250v. The point of MOSFET looms is not just keeping the switch install simple, it stops any high current being in the grip, which is safer, provides one loom for all motors and simplifies the run of wires through the shell,
Could you do a video showing install of a mosfet flywheel control into a rapidstrike with the bsuk wiring kit for those of us going to do a high power RS build? I understand the wiring diagram & why mosfets work (electrical engineering degree), but the physical install is where I need help.
Anywhere where there is space. The two likely locations are in the back of the battery tray, with a separator installed to keep the battery from banging on it, above the pusher box or above the fwc in the handle.
It also occurred to me if you have a plug in motor block you can use that plug to feed your Mosfet. I can make a loom addition for that. I will look into it.
I have a simple voltmeter. Where should I wire it to maintain modularity, and not interfere with the mosfet? (I mean where in the circuit, not physically in the blaster shell.) Also, it's a Dean connector on the motor block, and an XT-60 on the battery block, it looks like, but am I missing another connectors here?
JST connector for the voltmeter and rev switch. Just wire the voltmeter like in my LED video, one + wire to the Common on the jam door, then from normally Closed, so it cones on when you open the jam door, to + on the voltmeter, - to main battery -.I like to be able to switch the voltmeter off.
I thought I would let you, and people here, know I followed your guides, and have successfully wired up a Mosfet with MTB Honeybadgers in a stryfe with a voltmeter through the jam door switch. I am a grown man, but I had never even soldered anything in my life. The solder points are... well they are ugly and if I have any problems it's gonna be those. But that aside it went fine. I found the parts on Digikey and Newark (fast shipping). All I recommend is buying batches of 3 or more (because you will make mistakes). Anyways, it sounds like a leaf blower and gets pretty nutty range. So thank you, FDS. Your services are appreciated.
I have not heard that separating the flux helps. (P.S. Literally ten minutes later, my lipo inflated and exploded into flames while on a balance charger. However, I took the precautions of purchasing a lipo bag and placing it all in pyrex. I can't for the life of me figure what went wrong, but I know everyone says its always user error (I had successfully cycled it into storage and a charge and drain cycle before, so not first charge). Something I did very rapidly overvolted it like 20 minutes into a two hour charge. I suppose this is off topic, but I thought I would mention it. Remind people to be extra careful with lipos and take all the precautions they can.)
You over discharged it, either by a short or through draining it too far. I just follow a very simple process with my lipo. Charge it the night before the game, use it, then at the end check voltage isn't below 3.4v cell, then leave until next time or put in storage charge if the voltage was low. I have never gone below 3.4v even on long games and never had a problem with a pack. Never use lipo for circuit testing.
I have just done this to a stryfe but upon testing it the motors spin very slowly with the switch in its resting position and compressing the switch makes no difference, I have checked that the circuit is correct to the diagram. What might have gone wrong?
You have made a mistake with the MOSFET wiring and cooked the FET. Re check all the connections especially the fly back diode. You will need a new FET. If you need more detailed advice then get a post up in Q&A on www.tapatalk.com/groups/britnerf/
I have a question for somebody that knows a lot about MOSFETs. I had an idea for adjustable ROF for a rapidstrike. Since most potentiometers can't handle the current required by motors, would it work if I but a MOSFET in there as the main current passage, with the potentiometer controlling how much it lets through? I don't know enough about the usage of MOSFETs.
No idea, I use my trigger finger for Rof control. Tap for less shots squeeze for more. I have never found any benefit to a ROF below 8-10 dps or over 14.
Care to make any comments on the IRFZ44N versus the IRLB3034 that (I believe) OOD sells standard? As far as I can tell, and I am a rather new electronics hobbiest so... grain of salt/fact check, the IRLB costs more but has better RDS(on) so less heat in general function, and also much better drain-to-source amperage ratings so may be overkill for most use cases but may actually be necessary for those who want to go nuts with some 180 motor neodymium shenanigans. What are your thoughts? Is there a particular model that you would suggest for a mosfet that fits in the "overkill for most, but is guarenteed to work in the most demanding conditions" category?
Micah Miller The 3034 is better. UKnerwar.com sells an even better FET in their board kits. We started using 3034’s in 2014 for neo mag 180’s. At that point the 44N was fine for everything else since motor choice was more limited. I now fit the higher power ones to everything.
It's funny I clicked on this video after reading the word mosfet and thought, sweet, I hope there is a new guitar pedal with mosfets coming out. Then I realized it was nerf and it blew my mind
MOSFET circuits have become popular lately with 3D printer builders using kits that ship with lower power PSUs (cost savings) to shorten heat up times and more importantly, reduce the fire hazard of wiring a PSU directly to the printer controller PCB.
Is it 'I' as in 'IN5400' or '1' as in '1N5400' for the diode? As I've had more luck finding them with the later. Also, any experience with the 'UF3001' "ultra-fast" diode? Which is apparently a replacement for the 1N5400. UF3001 www.diodes.com/datasheets/ds25004.pdf 1N5400 download.siliconexpert.com/pdfs/2009/5/18/8/55/56/dds_/auto/ds28007.pdf
Foamdata Services Interestingly though, they can be found with both 'I' and '1' on eBay. I'm about to order a bunch of the UF3001's, so I'll see how they go. There are a few differences between them, as can be seen in the data sheets I linked, but doubtfully any that would be noticed in this type of application. Keep up the bangin' work mate!
Either should work. Never used anything other than a 10k myself tho. I prefer to wait for the right parts as opposed to rushing. You can do everything except the resistor and don't plug it in until 10k's arrive if you are in a hurry.
You can use this RS design with a cycle control switch. If you just have two switches then wire the pusher as a separate circuit since it’s just on off. Put the battery under the barrel, auto Rayvens need a 1300+ mah 40c to be really useful and the stock tray is too small. m.imgur.com/a/Xwst4#s954SfM
This is awesome, thank you. Guessing the cycle control switch isnt like the standard nerf switches, i will look into that. On that wiring diagram the hump in the wire path means they are not connected? For example the negative wire from the motor goes to the middle pin on the fet without connecting to anything else, correct? Should the pusher motor also be a 3S motor if in using a 3S battery and 3S motors on the cage?
Also the Nerf switches could be used with this loom in a RS, they are just not very good. In an auto Rayven you just need a small switch with an arm for cycle control, we use the Cherry DC2 10A with medium arm.
Mine didn't work it was stuck closed and the gun won't shut off I don't know what to do I'm really bummed out about it it was a worker mod I did everything correctly I put the resistor around it in the right way and the gate is connected to the switch that is connected to the power wire red and the ground from the motors goes into the mosfet in the center in the ground is connected to the third pin I have to order a new one because one of the pens broke off so I think it was just damaged to begin with
You have something wired wrong somewhere, what you have done is cooked the mosfet so it’s always “on” . It happens sometimes, I keep a pack of spare FETs so I can repair my mistakes without buying a whole kit every time. Try the MOSFET board from Uknerfwar , takes all the guesswork out. Out of Darts has similar kits with a PCB in.
It saves you from needing to swap the rev trigger switch and means you can make 1 wiring loom that can deal with any motor, from stock to Wolverines, plus it stops you having 20-80A in the grip.
Running into a little bit of an issue. I purchased several of the mosfets you recommended, wired it all up for arduino, and it worked, until it stopped working. After a little bit the hellcat 180s were just always on as long as my lipo was plugged in. I tested continuity between the drain and source pins on the fet and it was continuous. Thinking I'd burned out the mosfet, I soldered up a new one and slapped it back in. Tested my arduino code and the motors spun up with the press of the rev trigger, and stopped when I released the rev trigger. However, after revving again, I felt the mosfet and it had gotten extremely hot. The motors then began to continue running past the moment I had released the rev trigger. Can you recommend a different mosfet for my 180s? Or would getting a heatsink/fan do the trick while still maintaining a relatively low profile? Have you run into issues trying to use these mosfets with high current draw motors? Thanks for the great video! Love all your work! Any help would be appreciated!
You have cooked the MOSFET, either you forgot a flyback diode to protect it from the back EMI, you got the pins wrong (less likely) or something is up with your program. Go to www.britnerf.co.uk if you want proper tech advice.
Update! The issue was not my flyback diode (which I did have), nor miswiring, nor issues with my program. After looking at the mosfet's data sheet, it is not "fully open" when it is given 5V (the voltage an arduino outputs). So it was acting like a resistor much more than if it were to be opened with a 2S or 3S LiPo, and overheated. Hence I was cooking the mosfet by not opening it all the way. Solution: I purchased IRLB3034 mosfets which are fully open at 5V. I tested it with the exact same code, put some darts through it, and the mosfet has not gotten hot at all.
Todjlet Yes, it is an ex MOSFET, it has ceased to be. You likely got the diode wrong, one connection is incorrect or you have too much current. Try again. I had one explode for no obvious reason this month, the first FET failure I have ever had.
You wired it wrong then. It’s rated to 250v 60A. It won’t have blown because you used a 3s lipo. If you want a higher rated one, say if you were using 3s neo mag motors then use an IRLB3034, that’s rated to 120A or so.
Thanks for the great video, I just finished my first mosfet mod because of you :) I do have a question; is there a way to have motor breaking with the mosfet? The only idea I've found so far is to add another mosfet and it's a whole complicated process. But is there an easier way? Thanks for any help/suggestions you might have!
You have to use an H bridge with two fets for motor braking, personally I don’t like braking, it serves zero useful purpose. Glad you found my video useful, I still keep having to use it to remind myself what goes where!
I believe you've already implied that it doesn't really matter, but I'm going for safe rather than sorry. Would it be acceptable for me to place the diode between the motors AFTER power is already fed to one of them? Such as, if I wired up the motors in the style of MTB's Stryfe guide, and placed the diode between the motors and wires?
You can put the flyback diode across the motor terminals but that's a worse way of doing it. If you use a plug in motor block and do the job properly then you firstly don't need to use new diodes on every set of motors, one does everything and secondly don't have to solder a large diode leg over the motor tags, which many peoole have trouble with already.
Alright, fair enough. I already have trouble getting my cage wired up as I like, so I think I've got a spot under the trigger where I can squeeze it in.
Also remember the flyback diode must go between the main +ve to the motor and the -ve from the FET. Putting it in the grip means running a very long loop of 16AWG you don't need if you use our method.
Foamdata Services yeah, I know, and as for the inside of the MOSFET, I'm pretty happy not knowing how it works, the resistor just piqued my interest. That link did help me a little, and that'll do, so thanks. I still don't really understand it, but I can see some of the logic behind it.
Deans connectors and XT60 or 90 are fine on the motor blocks, but anything else needs to be current rated correctly, so you couldn’t use the small JST connectors on the Rev switch without a Mosfet. There is really no reason not to use a FET now, since multiple sellers offer cheap boards for them that cut out any guess work.
So, if I'm planning to use your setup in this video (with t plugs between flywheel cage and switch), but without mosfets, whats the maximum amps it could take? (and how to count an amp in the lipo)
Hey there would love to see a circuit diagram for a blaster with dual switches like a Rapidstrike / hyperfire etc - inspiring work by the way my friend my mind is Aglow with Sinister foam thoughts...
See the wiring diagram at the top of this page, www.tapatalk.com/groups/britnerf/rewire-diagrams-t4310.html You will have to wire dead centre or you need an H bridge.
There is a loom industry standard, Britnerf has had a wiring standard, connector standard and all the diagrams on it for years. Not my fault if other builders ignore it!
That is flux, which is a chemical paste to help clean the wire and make the soldering more reliable. Solder nowadays has flux built into it, so that is not needed. Most likely that is just a habit from the old days when the flux was not incorporated into the solder. (solder will have a "flux core" nowadays)
Thanks for a great video on Mosfets! I just have one quick question, will the kit Out of Darts sells on his Etsy page www.etsy.com/listing/562017987/mosfet-kit-irlb3034pbf-mosfet-1k-ohm work? I'm trying to wire a regulator so that the board only activates the mosfet, which then takes the higher current necessary and delivers it to the pusher motor (if that's even possible) Some of the part numbers were different, so I thought I'd ask. Any advice you could give me on how to go about this would be much appreciated. I really enjoyed the video; thanks for making such an excellent, well researched guide!
The IRFZ44N is an old FET, and much worse than some of the more recent ones. The IRL40B209 will produce 14x less heat. www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/infineon-technologies/IRL40B209/IRL40B209-ND/5683946
I don’t own an Infinus. You can use the RS diagram here, just treat the conveyor as the the pusher box- www.tapatalk.com/groups/britnerf/rewire-diagrams-t4310.html
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Thank you very much for this. I have only recently stumbled across your channel and, as a newcomer to both Nerf and electronics, I cannot tell you how valuable I have found your tutorials; it's fantastic to have something explained so clearly without assumption of prior knowledge. Please keep up the good work.
Bob Baker What Bob says :)
Wow, i opted for 130 neo cans instead of 180s because i was intimidated by needing to use a transistor rather than a snap action switch. This is easy as pie! Thanks for the tutorial!
GeneralLee131 It’s even easier with a pre loaded FET board or through hole board, UKnerfwar does those in the UK, OOD has pre made boards in the US. Some modern 130’s pull way more current than old 180’s, especially new mag 130’s. Can size is no indicator of current draw.
@@foamdataservices Thanks for the tip. I'll check out those pre-made boards!
This made the Stryfe I just bought and modded much neater than it would have been otherwise, since I had some MOSFETS I was going to use for something but the plans ended up falling through. This video's pretty great, thanks.
Thank you so much for your great guides. I took your advice on the BSUK rapidstrike switch plate and wired it using your new rapidstrike wiring guide. I am using your MOSFET build in a new rapidstrike to keep the stock switches and plate.
You will only be able to keep the stock rev trigger, the cycle control ones break all the time and you can't use a mosfet on its own for the pusher, you need a more complex set up for that.
Finally something clear and concise. Thank you!
I like this much better than hacking up plastic for bigger switches and wiring. Nice tutorial!!
Couldn't have timed this video better: I was in the process of designing a revised MOSFET circuit this week and you just saved me the trouble of trial and error.
Wouldn't be surprised at all to see this being commonly used in the near future. Thanks for posting this.
This has been the UK standard for nearly 2 years! Kits are available from Blastersmiths.co.uk
This has helped me get an understanding of a MOSFET, I'm still not confident enough to do all the wiring and get it all right, but I've got much more of an idea of how they work and what they do, especially the reasons for using them.
Build it, it’s not that hard, there’s only 4 more components than a stock loom and it’s a lot better.
great video, I really prefer the idea of keeping the stock switch and doing an electrical mod rather than a largely mechanical one.
Also, there's no chemical reaction happening inside a MOSFET. It's all semi-conductor electronics. I know it doesn't matter to you, but to electronics people it's like nails on the chalkboard hearing someone get that wrong.
Well it's physics then. I have a simple remedy for pedants, it goes like this, Block, Delete Move on.
Mistake: the center pin of the MOSFET was called the Gate several times during soldering, but was actually the Drain.
Thank you, I always forget the names if the pins, that's what the circuit diagram is for.
great job on the video. always found having to drill out body and trigger areas for high amperage switches a bit brute.
Thanks for the clear instructions on this mosfet buddy, now i fully understand
sergeatar Glad you found it useful.
Lovely video, answered a few questions for me. Really like the idea of a completely future proofed build, the Modulus is a prime candidate.
I make all my looms fully modular and most of mine are now mosfet.
Seeing as this was 5 years ago, are there better options now? I'm going to take on the Nerf M41 Pulse Rifle. I want to keep the sound effects and amo counter but I'm going to throw a 3S lipo in it and flywheel cage with rinos. Do you know if anyone has tried it and maybe they have a wiring diagram?
I would ask around Facebook groups like Nerfmodders welcome. The best option to keep the sound effects is to copy my Jyn Eros build and separate the sound from the propulsion and use a voltage dropper to run the sound at 5v. There are also integrated MOSFET circuit boards now, that are all set up ready to fit. Out of Darts has lots of different ones. The parts scene has really exploded since I made these videos. Likewise motors, there are some very good 3s and 2s options now, have a good look around before you decide on motor choice.
In the Jyn Erso blaster wiring loom, the blue wire going to the mosfet is shown to be wired to the common pin on the standard rev micro switch,not the red wire, as seen in this tutorial. Can you elaborate whats the difference between this Stryfe loom and the Erso loom. Its a bit conjfusing for a first time modder, thanks.
It does not matter which way round you wire the Common or Normally Open, the switch works the same with the red and blue on either, it’s just a switch. As long as one goes to the FET and one comes from the battery then it will work. If using a different switch just be sure NOT to use a Normally Closed, since that will mean it revs all the time or not at all depending on where you put the other wire! The Jyn Erso loom requires a separate voltage regulated circuit to operate the light and sound, the firing part is the same as a Stryfe but the two are different overall.
Im using standard nerf micro switch then everything else you have stated as per both Erso videos and this tutorial. Thank you for your reply.
If making a Stryfe with standard two pin rev switch then it doesn’t matter which way round NO and C are on the Nerf switch. If making a Jyn erso the rev switch doesn’t matter but polarity for the light/sound bit is very important.
Yes doing multiple Ersos. Doing a performance version with custom paint. Then a vanilla LiPO version blacked out for Star Wars cosplay. The other two Ersos are for spares, seeing as I'm unaware if everything made for the stryfe is interchangeable with the Erso, motor cage/block etc. Thank you for your assistance and videos.
All the Stryfe flywheels fit the JE as do all the 130 size motors like Fang RV/Neo Rhino etc, the flywheel cage is different, OFP do a JE cage but I am unimpressed with it and printed cages in general. You can get 130fps out the stock JE cage with Fangs and Bulldog or Hooligan flywheels. I like the form of it better than the Stryfe.
Does the Voltage or wattage matter for the 10K OHM resistor, the same for the Rectifier re volts & amps? I noticed they have different ratings. Also what are the connectors/adapters you're using? Thank you for all the detail you provide in your videos, as I am in the same boat as BB (Bob Baker)
Wattage rating of the 10k makes no difference. Diode- you need an IN5400. Connectors are JST for low current like LEDs, signal current for the FET, then Deans for the motor block and XT60 for the pack. Britnerf standardised these along with wire colours back in 2012.
So as I've learned more about Mosfets, motors, relays, switches, etc. I've started to wonder... even if we aren't using a MOSFET, wouldn't including a flyback diode across the motor part of the loom just be helpful in general? Like, wouldn't it also make regular switches potentially live longer too?
Micah Miller Switches are bi directional, so BEMF doesn’t really cause them a problem plus it occurs after you release the trigger and the contacts are open. A flyback diode should certainly be included in any circuit with a micro controller or other more sensitive components in.
Is this the diode that I would use for a rhino rapidstrike with a honeybadger pusher?
Honeybadgers are crap, use something better. If you must use the worst nerf motor ever, and throttle it, then you could use this sort of diode.
Foamdata Services copy that
A third Rhino works really well, not as fast but has better braking torque and reliability compared to the HB.
Hi mate, I am watching your work and learning a lot as I go so thank you, I am about to start a stryfe build using MTB Neo-Hellcats and am wondering what mosfet setup you would recommend.....am I right in thinking I can still use the same resistor and diode as in this video and then just replace the mosfet switch with a 120A version?
You would certainly want the 120A FET. Maybe even bigger. Both Uknerfwar and Out of Darts, plus a couple of other suppliers now do much higher current FET set ups, some with an integrated circuit board to make wiring easier. The community has moved the tech on a lot since I did these videos.
Oh wow, ok I see what you mean, the britnerf version looks like it's something you do inline rather than ontop of the motors like the out of darts one....is that correct? If so I think I'd prefer that rather than the extra volume ontop of 180 motors
Ok out of darts want 50 bucks postage for a 10 dollar board and britnerf won't post to Australia....might be out of luck using a board so I might just have to do it the old school way
I just finished wiring up honeybadgers in my hyperfire using two MOSFETs as shown in this video. it worked sweet. huge reduction in case mods needed, wired so that the pushed can not engage before reving to minimize jams. I even retained the safety switch of the jam door, I did get rid of the clip switch however
Nice work.
Foamdata Services thanks for the help, great step by step
Foamdata Services I really want to add motor braking to the belt drive motor for more trigger control, any suggestions on a simple way to get it done
No idea, I don't own any blasters with the conveyor belt in them.
Ask that question on Britnerf, www.britnerf.co.uk
Foamdata Services I guess I was to specific. I just needed a diagram of a motor braking circuit that utilizes MOSFETs. I found one in an airsoft forum. thanks
I'm a little confused by the ending. Are you saying that it can take a lipo or not? Also, I realize the point is to skip the trigger switch swap, but will it still work with a 10A switch?
What interests me is the idea of swappable power sources.
This loom allows you to run any motors up to 60A burst. Motor choice is what drives power sources, they draw the current required by the load placed upon them from the pack, up to their stall current. The pack does not "push" current to the motors. You can run this set up with any switch you like, from a 2c special up to a 21A Omron or Cherry DC2. Input voltage is likewise irellevant, it will work on 5-250v.
The point of MOSFET looms is not just keeping the switch install simple, it stops any high current being in the grip, which is safer, provides one loom for all motors and simplifies the run of wires through the shell,
We also NEVER test new circuits with lipo, that way if there is a fault somewhere you don't short a potentially explosive power source finding out!
Okay, I understand now. I misunderstood the test section. Thank you for the detailed response.
Could you do a video showing install of a mosfet flywheel control into a rapidstrike with the bsuk wiring kit for those of us going to do a high power RS build?
I understand the wiring diagram & why mosfets work (electrical engineering degree), but the physical install is where I need help.
You just build the flywheel circuit the same as this one.
Foamdata Services I'm talking about location of the mosfet in the blaster, etc.
Anywhere where there is space. The two likely locations are in the back of the battery tray, with a separator installed to keep the battery from banging on it, above the pusher box or above the fwc in the handle.
It also occurred to me if you have a plug in motor block you can use that plug to feed your Mosfet. I can make a loom addition for that. I will look into it.
I have a simple voltmeter. Where should I wire it to maintain modularity, and not interfere with the mosfet? (I mean where in the circuit, not physically in the blaster shell.)
Also, it's a Dean connector on the motor block, and an XT-60 on the battery block, it looks like, but am I missing another connectors here?
JST connector for the voltmeter and rev switch. Just wire the voltmeter like in my LED video, one + wire to the Common on the jam door, then from normally Closed, so it cones on when you open the jam door, to + on the voltmeter, - to main battery -.I like to be able to switch the voltmeter off.
I thought I would let you, and people here, know I followed your guides, and have successfully wired up a Mosfet with MTB Honeybadgers in a stryfe with a voltmeter through the jam door switch. I am a grown man, but I had never even soldered anything in my life. The solder points are... well they are ugly and if I have any problems it's gonna be those. But that aside it went fine.
I found the parts on Digikey and Newark (fast shipping). All I recommend is buying batches of 3 or more (because you will make mistakes).
Anyways, it sounds like a leaf blower and gets pretty nutty range. So thank you, FDS. Your services are appreciated.
Well done! Try a leaded solder and separate flux if you want to improve your joints. Good luck with your next mod and thanks for sharing your success!
I have not heard that separating the flux helps.
(P.S. Literally ten minutes later, my lipo inflated and exploded into flames while on a balance charger. However, I took the precautions of purchasing a lipo bag and placing it all in pyrex. I can't for the life of me figure what went wrong, but I know everyone says its always user error (I had successfully cycled it into storage and a charge and drain cycle before, so not first charge). Something I did very rapidly overvolted it like 20 minutes into a two hour charge. I suppose this is off topic, but I thought I would mention it. Remind people to be extra careful with lipos and take all the precautions they can.)
You over discharged it, either by a short or through draining it too far. I just follow a very simple process with my lipo. Charge it the night before the game, use it, then at the end check voltage isn't below 3.4v cell, then leave until next time or put in storage charge if the voltage was low. I have never gone below 3.4v even on long games and never had a problem with a pack. Never use lipo for circuit testing.
I have just done this to a stryfe but upon testing it the motors spin very slowly with the switch in its resting position and compressing the switch makes no difference, I have checked that the circuit is correct to the diagram. What might have gone wrong?
You have made a mistake with the MOSFET wiring and cooked the FET. Re check all the connections especially the fly back diode. You will need a new FET. If you need more detailed advice then get a post up in Q&A on www.tapatalk.com/groups/britnerf/
Thank you. Luckily I bought a spare FET and will be trying again tomorrow
I have a question for somebody that knows a lot about MOSFETs. I had an idea for adjustable ROF for a rapidstrike. Since most potentiometers can't handle the current required by motors, would it work if I but a MOSFET in there as the main current passage, with the potentiometer controlling how much it lets through? I don't know enough about the usage of MOSFETs.
No you can't do it that way. If you want adjustable rof, buy a 20A ESC off ebay and put it on the pusher.
Ok. Would this work? Also, thanks a lot for the help. www.amazon.com/uniquegoods-Universal-Controller-Adjustable-without/dp/B018FZ3D6O
Yes if it will fit in the shell. On top of the pusher box is a good spot.
That's a good idea. What about braking, though? do you know if that would work with this?
No idea, I use my trigger finger for Rof control. Tap for less shots squeeze for more. I have never found any benefit to a ROF below 8-10 dps or over 14.
Care to make any comments on the IRFZ44N versus the IRLB3034 that (I believe) OOD sells standard? As far as I can tell, and I am a rather new electronics hobbiest so... grain of salt/fact check, the IRLB costs more but has better RDS(on) so less heat in general function, and also much better drain-to-source amperage ratings so may be overkill for most use cases but may actually be necessary for those who want to go nuts with some 180 motor neodymium shenanigans. What are your thoughts? Is there a particular model that you would suggest for a mosfet that fits in the "overkill for most, but is guarenteed to work in the most demanding conditions" category?
Micah Miller The 3034 is better. UKnerwar.com sells an even better FET in their board kits. We started using 3034’s in 2014 for neo mag 180’s. At that point the 44N was fine for everything else since motor choice was more limited. I now fit the higher power ones to everything.
@@foamdataservices great to know, thanks for weighing in l! :)
Micah Miller No probs, the hobby has moved so far in the last two years many of my videos are out of date!
Is there any reason I shouldn't use this type of switch on a motorbike?
It probably has some already, vehicle headlights are a common use for them. This one was a headlight full beam mosfet!
It's funny I clicked on this video after reading the word mosfet and thought, sweet, I hope there is a new guitar pedal with mosfets coming out. Then I realized it was nerf and it blew my mind
They are a very useful component. This particular one is used in car headlamps amongst other things.
MOSFET circuits have become popular lately with 3D printer builders using kits that ship with lower power PSUs (cost savings) to shorten heat up times and more importantly, reduce the fire hazard of wiring a PSU directly to the printer controller PCB.
Is it 'I' as in 'IN5400' or '1' as in '1N5400' for the diode? As I've had more luck finding them with the later. Also, any experience with the 'UF3001' "ultra-fast" diode? Which is apparently a replacement for the 1N5400.
UF3001
www.diodes.com/datasheets/ds25004.pdf
1N5400
download.siliconexpert.com/pdfs/2009/5/18/8/55/56/dds_/auto/ds28007.pdf
1N5400. I just copied what was on the bag. Not tried other ones.
Foamdata Services Interestingly though, they can be found with both 'I' and '1' on eBay.
I'm about to order a bunch of the UF3001's, so I'll see how they go.
There are a few differences between them, as can be seen in the data sheets I linked, but doubtfully any that would be noticed in this type of application.
Keep up the bangin' work mate!
If I use a 8.2k or 12k resistor which would be the best. Im new to this and used up my 10k already.
Thanks
Either should work. Never used anything other than a 10k myself tho. I prefer to wait for the right parts as opposed to rushing. You can do everything except the resistor and don't plug it in until 10k's arrive if you are in a hurry.
Can this loom be adapted to a full-auto build? This is the only wiring loom i know and want to try my hand at an auto Rayven.
You can use this RS design with a cycle control switch. If you just have two switches then wire the pusher as a separate circuit since it’s just on off. Put the battery under the barrel, auto Rayvens need a 1300+ mah 40c to be really useful and the stock tray is too small. m.imgur.com/a/Xwst4#s954SfM
This is awesome, thank you. Guessing the cycle control switch isnt like the standard nerf switches, i will look into that. On that wiring diagram the hump in the wire path means they are not connected? For example the negative wire from the motor goes to the middle pin on the fet without connecting to anything else, correct? Should the pusher motor also be a 3S motor if in using a 3S battery and 3S motors on the cage?
A hump is NOT a connection as you have worked out.
Always use the same voltage on the pusher and flywheels.
Also the Nerf switches could be used with this loom in a RS, they are just not very good. In an auto Rayven you just need a small switch with an arm for cycle control, we use the Cherry DC2 10A with medium arm.
Mine didn't work it was stuck closed and the gun won't shut off I don't know what to do I'm really bummed out about it it was a worker mod I did everything correctly I put the resistor around it in the right way and the gate is connected to the switch that is connected to the power wire red and the ground from the motors goes into the mosfet in the center in the ground is connected to the third pin I have to order a new one because one of the pens broke off so I think it was just damaged to begin with
You have something wired wrong somewhere, what you have done is cooked the mosfet so it’s always “on” . It happens sometimes, I keep a pack of spare FETs so I can repair my mistakes without buying a whole kit every time. Try the MOSFET board from Uknerfwar , takes all the guesswork out. Out of Darts has similar kits with a PCB in.
I still don't understand what does adding a mosfet do?
It saves you from needing to swap the rev trigger switch and means you can make 1 wiring loom that can deal with any motor, from stock to Wolverines, plus it stops you having 20-80A in the grip.
Running into a little bit of an issue. I purchased several of the mosfets you recommended, wired it all up for arduino, and it worked, until it stopped working. After a little bit the hellcat 180s were just always on as long as my lipo was plugged in. I tested continuity between the drain and source pins on the fet and it was continuous. Thinking I'd burned out the mosfet, I soldered up a new one and slapped it back in. Tested my arduino code and the motors spun up with the press of the rev trigger, and stopped when I released the rev trigger. However, after revving again, I felt the mosfet and it had gotten extremely hot. The motors then began to continue running past the moment I had released the rev trigger. Can you recommend a different mosfet for my 180s? Or would getting a heatsink/fan do the trick while still maintaining a relatively low profile? Have you run into issues trying to use these mosfets with high current draw motors? Thanks for the great video! Love all your work! Any help would be appreciated!
You have cooked the MOSFET, either you forgot a flyback diode to protect it from the back EMI, you got the pins wrong (less likely) or something is up with your program. Go to www.britnerf.co.uk if you want proper tech advice.
Update! The issue was not my flyback diode (which I did have), nor miswiring, nor issues with my program. After looking at the mosfet's data sheet, it is not "fully open" when it is given 5V (the voltage an arduino outputs). So it was acting like a resistor much more than if it were to be opened with a 2S or 3S LiPo, and overheated. Hence I was cooking the mosfet by not opening it all the way. Solution: I purchased IRLB3034 mosfets which are fully open at 5V. I tested it with the exact same code, put some darts through it, and the mosfet has not gotten hot at all.
Did the wiring right but now it stays on and won't turn off is my mosfet cooked?
Todjlet Yes, it is an ex MOSFET, it has ceased to be. You likely got the diode wrong, one connection is incorrect or you have too much current. Try again. I had one explode for no obvious reason this month, the first FET failure I have ever had.
this fet couldnt fried out when i used a 3S on it. i mistakenly thought this could work on 3s motors and an omron.
You wired it wrong then. It’s rated to 250v 60A. It won’t have blown because you used a 3s lipo. If you want a higher rated one, say if you were using 3s neo mag motors then use an IRLB3034, that’s rated to 120A or so.
Foamdata Services oh then it was definitely the 65c and neo mag motors.
Neo mag motors need the IRFZ3034.
can i use the gate with 18awg wire?? thank you
si iyans If you want to waste decent wire on the signal side it won’t hurt. You can recycle stock wire on the low side wiring as well.
@@foamdataservices ok thank you very much 🙏
can i use this in full automatic stryfe? and how do i install it? thank you
Thanks for the great video, I just finished my first mosfet mod because of you :) I do have a question; is there a way to have motor breaking with the mosfet? The only idea I've found so far is to add another mosfet and it's a whole complicated process. But is there an easier way? Thanks for any help/suggestions you might have!
You have to use an H bridge with two fets for motor braking, personally I don’t like braking, it serves zero useful purpose.
Glad you found my video useful, I still keep having to use it to remind myself what goes where!
1:40 wiring diagram
I believe you've already implied that it doesn't really matter, but I'm going for safe rather than sorry. Would it be acceptable for me to place the diode between the motors AFTER power is already fed to one of them? Such as, if I wired up the motors in the style of MTB's Stryfe guide, and placed the diode between the motors and wires?
You can put the flyback diode across the motor terminals but that's a worse way of doing it. If you use a plug in motor block and do the job properly then you firstly don't need to use new diodes on every set of motors, one does everything and secondly don't have to solder a large diode leg over the motor tags, which many peoole have trouble with already.
Alright, fair enough. I already have trouble getting my cage wired up as I like, so I think I've got a spot under the trigger where I can squeeze it in.
Put it by the jam door switch, or in the top of the mag well. Look at my MOSFET board video, you can see where we put them.
Also remember the flyback diode must go between the main +ve to the motor and the -ve from the FET. Putting it in the grip means running a very long loop of 16AWG you don't need if you use our method.
How can you use mosphets in a rapidstrike
www.tapatalk.com/groups/britnerf/rewire-diagrams-t4310.html#p41723
What kind of wire do you use for the thinner wire?
22AWG or stock recycled Nerf wire.
So I'm curious, what is the purpose of the 10kΩ Resistor on the Mosfet?
You need a resistive load across the gate/source.
Foamdata Services huh, thanks, now I feel like I need to go get a degree in electrical engineering to know WHY that is :P
First rule of MOSFET, don't worry HOW it works, just know it does.
electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/68748/question-about-mosfet-gate-resistor
Foamdata Services yeah, I know, and as for the inside of the MOSFET, I'm pretty happy not knowing how it works, the resistor just piqued my interest. That link did help me a little, and that'll do, so thanks. I still don't really understand it, but I can see some of the logic behind it.
Think of a MOSFET as a chemical relay.
is it ok to use t plugs without mosfets?
Deans connectors and XT60 or 90 are fine on the motor blocks, but anything else needs to be current rated correctly, so you couldn’t use the small JST connectors on the Rev switch without a Mosfet. There is really no reason not to use a FET now, since multiple sellers offer cheap boards for them that cut out any guess work.
So, if I'm planning to use your setup in this video (with t plugs between flywheel cage and switch), but without mosfets, whats the maximum amps it could take? (and how to count an amp in the lipo)
can motor braking be added to this loom?
vastneon No, not without making an H bridge. I don’t believe in using motor braking, it adds nothing.
Can you use a li-po after the test if it works?
Yes.
Hey there would love to see a circuit diagram for a blaster with dual switches like a Rapidstrike / hyperfire etc - inspiring work by the way my friend my mind is Aglow with Sinister foam thoughts...
www.tapatalk.com/groups/britnerf/rewire-diagrams-t4310.html
how would you wire this into a 3 switch system?
See the wiring diagram at the top of this page, www.tapatalk.com/groups/britnerf/rewire-diagrams-t4310.html
You will have to wire dead centre or you need an H bridge.
Is a 1N4000 series diode good enough?
No, that’s why I use a 5400
Thanks. :)
Very ambiguous description needs to make a loom industry standard like
There is a loom industry standard, Britnerf has had a wiring standard, connector standard and all the diagrams on it for years. Not my fault if other builders ignore it!
Sorry for the noob question, but what are you using to solder (the gel you dab on the wire)? TIA
Flux.
That is flux, which is a chemical paste to help clean the wire and make the soldering more reliable. Solder nowadays has flux built into it, so that is not needed. Most likely that is just a habit from the old days when the flux was not incorporated into the solder. (solder will have a "flux core" nowadays)
Love it!
I'm never doing a stryfe any other way from here on
Thanks for a great video on Mosfets! I just have one quick question, will the kit Out of Darts sells on his Etsy page www.etsy.com/listing/562017987/mosfet-kit-irlb3034pbf-mosfet-1k-ohm work? I'm trying to wire a regulator so that the board only activates the mosfet, which then takes the higher current necessary and delivers it to the pusher motor (if that's even possible) Some of the part numbers were different, so I thought I'd ask. Any advice you could give me on how to go about this would be much appreciated. I really enjoyed the video; thanks for making such an excellent, well researched guide!
No idea, ask the seller.
Okay, thanks for the reply!
1:40
The IRFZ44N is an old FET, and much worse than some of the more recent ones. The IRL40B209 will produce 14x less heat. www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/infineon-technologies/IRL40B209/IRL40B209-ND/5683946
Never had a heat problem with mine. Will look at those when this batch runs out.
Here's the tricky question. Would you mind making a tutorial or at least a diagram to mosfet the Infinus?
I don’t own an Infinus. You can use the RS diagram here, just treat the conveyor as the the pusher box- www.tapatalk.com/groups/britnerf/rewire-diagrams-t4310.html