Thanks for the award! I'll definitely work on a Bobo style rev trigger. Unfortunately I swapped the + and - holes on that version, and forgot to update the labels, so the labels are backwards. The - pads are in the center, and the + pads are on the outside. If you want to reduce wire mess even more, I recommend attaching all three negative wires to the top hole on the pusher connection. Gluing the plate down isn't necessary, the shell pushes against the printed part on the bottom screw post and the foam pad on the top to keep it from lifting up. But sometimes the switch plate can pop off the screw posts, which can be a bit annoying, and hot glue fixes that. There's also a 3D printed main trigger for this, if you want a different color or don't want to cut your stock trigger.
@@Ratman99UK, assuming you purchased it from OutofDarts, I would email him at outofdarts@gmail.com and ask him. That being said, I also received 3 screws and decided to put the 3rd screw on the screw port closest to the pusher switch lever. I figured as it would be getting the most impact, securing it from moving around too much would be the best idea.
@@PogiChoie interestingly if you look on the outofdarts page for the kit it only shows 3 screws and 2 nuts In the photo. Seems like it's intended. So far I've put the screws at the opposite end to the solder joint as I guessed that would hold the one end.
Sorry to hear that, they definitely should come with four screws and nuts. They're M3, you can contact Out of Darts, or I can send them to you. I just contacted him about this to make sure it's not a widespread issue.
@@adriankelly3338 I'm in the UK, mate so I'm not going to expect with you or out of darts to post two screws around the world. As you say it's worth checking with "out of darts" for stock moving forward but I myself will just pick up a few bolts from eBay. Thanks for getting back to me
Nice board design from KI, suggestion I would have is some caution with the solid wire jumpers from PCB to switch terminal. That looks like the solder joint or the pad on the PCB could be a fatigue failure with time. Perhaps a stranded or braid piece, or add a bend. Also, the test setup needs more dwell on the limit switch, even on 2 cell it was on the edge. Using a roller lever as a follower tends to not work out too well, the "shoe" type followers are better.
Desoldering braid / desoldering wick is a copper mesh that absorbs hot solder and it's cheap. You buy a small spool or roll of it, and snip off the filled-up end after each use. So a "solder sucker" is only a nice-to-have and never essential.
I have the newer 1.2 board with a date of 2019-02-02. When I rev, both the flywheels and pusher activate. I’m assuming the board leads are labeled correctly (and they seem to have moved, as the battery/flywheel negative are now in the upper left.) I’m trying to follow the printed circuit, but where it runs under the switches I’m losing it. I’m not sure how to contact Kelly Industries as the site has no contact form, so any help would be appreciated.
So Bobo, now that you have spent time with it. What’s your verdict on using the roller switch in the pusher location, did you end up having to shape the end of the pusher rod at all? or has it been pretty reliable?
Haven't had any issues yet, the angle is solid and appears to work without any problems... so far. It's not my first choice in how to do it, but as long as it works, right?
Great product! I always wondered how much resistance printed boards like this would add to the circuit though compared to the usual direct connections to the rest of your (much thicker) 18G/16G wiring. Any idea? :)
I kept the traces for the high current flywheels really short to keep resistance down, they're about 8mm from each switch tab to the wire pad, so 2mOhm total, which is totally negligible. All the long traces are only for the pusher. They're about 50mm, which is 12mOhm, about the same as 2ft of 18 AWG wire or a bit less than 1 Omron switch.
@@cadend4188 Not really about if the PCB can take it, it'll be more about if the switch can shut off the Honey Badger fast enough in certain wiring set-ups. Dead Center should work, as per my example in the video
This seems phenomenal. I have a technical question. Does he say much about the current that board can take? I intend to do MOSFETs, so that is significantly less important, but I was looking at the fine nature of it and wondered if a regular build with revamp motors might test those connections.
So far, I'm trusting AKelly's design since he's also made the flywheel cage boards in a similar way. Time will tell, but I'll be surprised if this fails.
@@Bobololo Just curious because even 18 awg wire can get some shade from the electrical engineers in our hobby. I wonder if it bottlenecks. I'm sure if it does, we'll hear about it anyways.
You shouldn't have an issue with any Nerf motor. The added resistance is equivalent to 3" of extra 18AWG wire on the flywheels and 2 feet on the pusher. And I'm in the camp that 18 gauge wire is totally fine too. The wire in your motors is like 30 gauge.
![เปิดบ้าน โคตรสวย ป๋องกพล รู้จักตั้งนาน เพิ่งรู้ว่ารวย!!! l [Nickynachat]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/tmgCF_2HfYI/mqdefault.jpg)
Out of Darts and AKelly told me they'd be making videos about the item. I'll have the links here and in the description if/when they come out.
Lucky me. Checked my phone to see that a quality content producer had provided a quality video. Let's go Bobolo!
Thanks for the award! I'll definitely work on a Bobo style rev trigger. Unfortunately I swapped the + and - holes on that version, and forgot to update the labels, so the labels are backwards. The - pads are in the center, and the + pads are on the outside.
If you want to reduce wire mess even more, I recommend attaching all three negative wires to the top hole on the pusher connection.
Gluing the plate down isn't necessary, the shell pushes against the printed part on the bottom screw post and the foam pad on the top to keep it from lifting up. But sometimes the switch plate can pop off the screw posts, which can be a bit annoying, and hot glue fixes that.
There's also a 3D printed main trigger for this, if you want a different color or don't want to cut your stock trigger.
Hi Adrian, mine only came with 3 screws and 2 nuts. what size do i need to buy? they look like m3 / m4 but i dont have my calipers here.
@@Ratman99UK, assuming you purchased it from OutofDarts, I would email him at outofdarts@gmail.com and ask him.
That being said, I also received 3 screws and decided to put the 3rd screw on the screw port closest to the pusher switch lever. I figured as it would be getting the most impact, securing it from moving around too much would be the best idea.
@@PogiChoie interestingly if you look on the outofdarts page for the kit it only shows 3 screws and 2 nuts In the photo. Seems like it's intended.
So far I've put the screws at the opposite end to the solder joint as I guessed that would hold the one end.
Sorry to hear that, they definitely should come with four screws and nuts. They're M3, you can contact Out of Darts, or I can send them to you. I just contacted him about this to make sure it's not a widespread issue.
@@adriankelly3338 I'm in the UK, mate so I'm not going to expect with you or out of darts to post two screws around the world.
As you say it's worth checking with "out of darts" for stock moving forward but I myself will just pick up a few bolts from eBay.
Thanks for getting back to me
Nice board design from KI, suggestion I would have is some caution with the solid wire jumpers from PCB to switch terminal. That looks like the solder joint or the pad on the PCB could be a fatigue failure with time. Perhaps a stranded or braid piece, or add a bend.
Also, the test setup needs more dwell on the limit switch, even on 2 cell it was on the edge. Using a roller lever as a follower tends to not work out too well, the "shoe" type followers are better.
Dude... that's sick! I love my rapidstrike, but this assembly has stopped me from making another superstock. I'll definitely be getting one!
Desoldering braid / desoldering wick is a copper mesh that absorbs hot solder and it's cheap. You buy a small spool or roll of it, and snip off the filled-up end after each use. So a "solder sucker" is only a nice-to-have and never essential.
Great video! I would love to get one however OOD does not have them in stock. I think I found Adrian Kelly's website but it looks closed.
The joint Containment Crew switch plate is beautiful, oh my. Kelly's boards are cool, but the elegance of the CC plate design is something else.
Thank you! I need some help pestering CC about releasing it ;)
How would you incorporate motor breaking into this wiring setup?
Thanks Bobo. This help me install my PCB. Definitely worth the money.
Just got my plate from OoD today. Thanks for the vid. I'm sure Kelly will update this as time goes on like they did the flywheel plate.
I have the newer 1.2 board with a date of 2019-02-02. When I rev, both the flywheels and pusher activate. I’m assuming the board leads are labeled correctly (and they seem to have moved, as the battery/flywheel negative are now in the upper left.)
I’m trying to follow the printed circuit, but where it runs under the switches I’m losing it. I’m not sure how to contact Kelly Industries as the site has no contact form, so any help would be appreciated.
Hi, whats the difference between live center and dead center? Not sure which I want for my RS.
Bobololo with a timely review, who is this man?
First again. Stop trying, please- you'll never beat me.
Already did. :)
Nope. 2 minutes to your 3 minutes ago as of right now ;)
@@OC-hq9hz and I can always delete the comment so I become first :P
IAmBobololo I have given up a long time ago
@@Bobololo I don't feel so good....
I may have to go grab one of my RSs from storage and use this now. Great!
Will this work with the nub for the stock rev trigger that comes with the BlasterTECH kit?
Omg i just bought the thing from OUT OF DARTS and had no info lol, and the. This shows up the moment it arrived lol.
I live in Brisbane and Dean is AWESOME. The plates are great but yeah international shipping isn't cheap
Would it fit in a infinus?
So Bobo, now that you have spent time with it. What’s your verdict on using the roller switch in the pusher location, did you end up having to shape the end of the pusher rod at all? or has it been pretty reliable?
Haven't had any issues yet, the angle is solid and appears to work without any problems... so far.
It's not my first choice in how to do it, but as long as it works, right?
OMG! Where was this when I did my Stratohawk build, just three weeks ago???
Great product! I always wondered how much resistance printed boards like this would add to the circuit though compared to the usual direct connections to the rest of your (much thicker) 18G/16G wiring. Any idea? :)
I kept the traces for the high current flywheels really short to keep resistance down, they're about 8mm from each switch tab to the wire pad, so 2mOhm total, which is totally negligible. All the long traces are only for the pusher. They're about 50mm, which is 12mOhm, about the same as 2ft of 18 AWG wire or a bit less than 1 Omron switch.
@@adriankelly3338 Thanks for that - good info to know. Keep 'em coming!
Sooooooo....My pusher is turning on when I rev, and I can't find the short. Any ideas?
Check the note above the buy link in the description. Might need to reverse the leads.
That was it. I actually mixed up the connection at the pusher motor, but swapping at the board still fixed it. Thanks!
does this mean that you cant use 3s with this pcb?
thinking about getting one please help!
Should be more than fine on 3S
@@Bobololo I was thinking about fangs and a honey badger would the rate of fire be to high for the pcb?
@@cadend4188 Not really about if the PCB can take it, it'll be more about if the switch can shut off the Honey Badger fast enough in certain wiring set-ups. Dead Center should work, as per my example in the video
This seems phenomenal. I have a technical question. Does he say much about the current that board can take? I intend to do MOSFETs, so that is significantly less important, but I was looking at the fine nature of it and wondered if a regular build with revamp motors might test those connections.
So far, I'm trusting AKelly's design since he's also made the flywheel cage boards in a similar way. Time will tell, but I'll be surprised if this fails.
@@Bobololo Just curious because even 18 awg wire can get some shade from the electrical engineers in our hobby. I wonder if it bottlenecks. I'm sure if it does, we'll hear about it anyways.
You shouldn't have an issue with any Nerf motor. The added resistance is equivalent to 3" of extra 18AWG wire on the flywheels and 2 feet on the pusher. And I'm in the camp that 18 gauge wire is totally fine too. The wire in your motors is like 30 gauge.
Wish Out of Darts wasn’t sold out of these!
Right? I have one left from this video and I don't want to use it because I can't find these anymore. Such a cool kit :(
IAmBobololo Adrian Kelly has a website where he sells them
Good vid boboman now do the fishy ;)
I heard my Name while looking away. What is it?
Just joking. What a nice piece of Hardware.