I just saw that as of today, 11/27/21 if you spend over $500 you get a $100 gift card. That is how I bought this trailer kit. I don't know how long it lasts. but visit on-line at www.northerntool.com/. 👍
Built mine and the Arizona MVD said they couldn't register it and give me plates because the MCO (title) wasn't signed on the back by the dealer, so I had to call northern tool and get them to send me an "original bill of sale" signed by them.. smh hopefully wherever they send me is an "original bill of sale" and the MVD accepts it,,!! The trailer manufacturer is some Chinese factory, the front of the title was signed by some Chinese person but not the back dealer section. Smh lol
I enjoyed this video and your build. For my use, I would have made the following modifications. 1) reverse the carriage bolts so the rounded heads are on the inside. Then cap the outside of the bolts with Acorn round head nuts. That eliminates the studs of the bolts sticking out inside the cargo area and snagging the cargo or your shins and hands. Sharp edges are a no no. 2) I would have run a white ground wire to all the lights. I have experienced too many issues with bad grounds on trailers. For me, well worth the extra cost and effort. 3) grommets on all wire penetrations through the metal holes in the frame. Chaffing wire insulation is definitely a thing. Been there, done that, don’t want to go there again. I like your use of deck boards instead of plywood. It just looks better and I just like it more than plywood.
Same here with the lighting suggestions - that nice powdercoating breeds grounding issues. Same with the blue connectors - expect to start having corrosion issues with them, as they damage the wire and are not fully waterproof. I never have issues after I went to running a dedicated ground to every light and using shrink connectors.
I have watched this video of yours at least a half dozen times. Great video! Bought one and used your video as a reference. Cost me $549 with a $100 gift card as a reward. Used the gift card and got the loading ramp on sale for $79.99 and still had $$ leftover. 5x8 really is a great size!
One of the grease fittings broke when I tried to add lubricant. Called Northern Tool customer service and a few days later, got a new pair of grease fittings. Customer service vas very nice and helpful which makes this trailer just that much better of a purchase. Bravo Northern Tool!!!
I just bought the aluminum version of this trailer today and should receive it in a week or so. You did a fine job on your bed and stakes. I also think it was a great idea to run the wiring through the wood beams. Thank you for the video.
@@checkyoursix5623 After I assembled the trailer I priced out the lumber for the sides and floor and it was over $200.00! Now 4 months later the prices have finally dropped so i can get the decking and sides and finally finish the trailer.
Thanks, by far the best video out there on the Ironton 5 x 8. I really like your 2 x 4 idea under the decking. Although, I would have made them flush with the top of steel cross channels with the same floating floor like you did. I plan to weld the upper cross channel bolts into ends of 1" sq. tubing for my side panel upright posts, then weld a 1.25" top rail on and something along the bottom and 1/8" HDPE plastic sheets to save weight.
When connecting the tongue to the frame a spacer inside the channel with a longer bolt running through both sides of the channel would be nice. There are holes on both sides of the channel. Some sch 40 galvanized pipe would work for spacers.
The scotch locks that were used to connect trailer wiring to your lights are prone to failure. There are other connecters that work a lot better. Ground wires should have bare metal to bare metal so a dremel tool would do the job. ex. military electronics guy
Use caution with the tongue jack. If the trailer has a lot of weight in it those A frame rails will twist a lot. I replaced the center cross brace with a cut up 4x4 and bolted my jack to that so it's inline with the center of the trailer.... works much better with weight.
Nice video thanks for posting, that trailer looks very similar to the Harbour Freight Super Duty 5x8 that I've seen on YT, however, judging from the look of those fenders it would appear to have somewhat better specs. A friendly word of advice, those blue snap together electrical connectors ( known as Scotchloks here in the UK) are most definitely NOT waterproof, after a while they will begin to fail when exposed to rain, road dirt, winter roadsalt etc and are not suitable for an outdoor automotive application. I learned this the hard way. Regards from Wales UK.
It’s my understanding that they are. Why would the manufacturer provide connectors that that are not considered waterproof. But if you can improve on it, why not? Thanks for watching.
@@brentbradley6711 Thanks so much for adding these amazingly insightful comments Brent! Have you been doing your insecure internet troll act for long? Your really good at it!
Great video!!...trailer looks awesome...hope it has served you will these past 2yrs!...1 quick question....did you bolt the 2x4 cross pieces to the frame cross pieces...or did you leave them floating?
Great question. I cut them tight taped them into place. Then when the decking is screwed down it sandwiches the cross stringers and locks them in. I hope that helps. The trailer has been a great help for me and is still holding up great. Thanks for watching.
I got the bottom square but the top is off by like 1/4 inch. Also air is trapped in my grease cover, it just pops itself off. Guess i need to prefill with grease to solve this? Too tired today to finsh it.
I would have put the carriage bolts in with the heads in the trailer and the nut on the outside. Not as pretty to look at but it’ll give you a flush surface on the inside to slide stuff up against. So you’re less likely to damage it. Also having the sides tighter together with less of a gap. This way if you need to haul sand or a loose material, you won’t lose as much. Nice build overall.
Is it a preferred method to install lumber to screw the deck bed into? I was "gifted" the 4 × 8 foldable and I need to strip all rotted lumber. Would it weaken frame if drilled for fasteners? A job well done! 👍
I liked screwing the wood on for straight. But I also installed wood stringers for the wood to be installed on. Would the trailer you have be able to have wood stringers? This could cut down drilling a lot of holes in the metal. I hope that helps. Thanks for watching.
I have seen a few teardrop trailers built with this trailer. It can handle the speed but I have noticed they usually go to a larger tire and wheel. I hope that helps. Thanks for watching.
Great video . I like the use of the 2”x6” for the deck boards . Maybe it was the camera angle, but it looks like there was no spacing between the boards. Unless you have a great water sealer on them they will swell up when they get wet. Still great job
I used a couple of 16 penny nails through a scrap board to make a spacer between the deck boards. It gives me about a 3/16” space between them. Thanks so much for watching.
@@DIYGene Awesome video! I liked how you spaced the deck boards. However, in my advanced years, I'd suggest screwing only one screw, not two, for a few months, depending upon the moisture content in the wood. I've seen new deck boards pressed against each other with no spacing, screwed on both sides. Then months later STILL end up with a 1/4" gap and split wood where the screw was because of the shrinkage. These lumberyards sell them saturated with water.
@@rusosure7 , That is an excellent suggestion. I was disappointed when I purchased the lumber because it was still wet. I don’t understand why they leave it out side so long uncovered like that. I am waiting until summer to put a sealer on it so it can dry out. Thanks so much for watching.
@@DIYGene I'm no expert, but I assume if the boards are pressure treated, they *must* have to saturate them with a water/chemical solution like in a pressure cooker. And since all this covid nonsense has choked the factory's output, they're probably in the tank on Monday, on the truck Tuesday, in Home Depot Wednesday, and dripping dry on your trailer Thursday. Not any time to dry out.
@@rusosure7 actually Home Depot has them sitting out in the weather for weeks. The wood is wet from the weather not the treatment. Home Depot clams because it’s pressure treated, they don’t need to store it inside. But it’s sure heavy when it’s wet.
I used 2 x 4s and then notched the ends 1/2” so they would fit tight into the 3” channel. I hope that helps. I put a list of all materials in the description below the video. Thanks for watching.
Great job, my only comment would be. The wiring should be soldered and covered with weather/water tight heat shrink tubing. The provided connectors are not weather tight, and are really meant for temporary internal use. In no way your fault, they should have put better connections in the kit, or explained in the directions...
Also wherever the wiring comes into contact with the fram there needs to be some protect with a small grommet. That will help to make sure the sheathing on the wire isn't scraped off resultng in a short and the lights not working.
Nice. Very nice. Incredible job! This video definitely boosted their trailer sales. Northern Tool should mail you a check for the cost of your trailer.
Thank you for the great advice on building the trailer. I would put tie down hooks on the top rails to and then both upper and lower in front and space the the tie down hooks. Love the way it turned out.😀🤘
Thanks for this great video! This is really well done. I'm on the lookout for a small, cheap trailer! I especially like how you built the deck. 2x boards are a huge improvement over plywood.
The tailgate latches you installed have a tendency to wiggle loose when you're going down the road, leading to a lost tailgate. I'd recommend replacing them with something that securely locks, or adding a swivel catch that will secure the handle. When it's time to rewire the lights, get some good heavy duty jacketed wire and use heat shrink connectors. The wire that comes with those cheap light kits is usually almost as bad as the scotchlocks that they provide. Make your splices in protected locations if you can and protect any of the exposed wire with split loom or tape to keep the sun off of it. Make sure you have a good ground coming from the tow vehicle to the trailer. If the jack breaks, replace it with one with a foot instead of a wheel.
Replacement of jack wheel: speaking from a woman's, I'm much more prefer a wheel on my swing. When the trailer is loaded, the wheel allows me to move my trailer around manually with ease. It also saves stress and strain on my body.
This is a good and informative video. Thank you for posting. I would like to mention about the trailer axels. After putting the hubs on the spindles, install the washer and then the castle nut (as you called it a slot not). You then tighten the castle nut all the way down to preload the bearings. Then back the castle nut off to where the tire will freely spin. Install the carter pin, cap and call it done. With the wire connectors, I couldn't hear weather you said the are or are not weather proof. They are not. I would have use butt connectors with a 3:1 heat shrink which has adhesive on the inside. This will help make it more water proof/resistance. All in all, it works for you and you did a good job showcasing the trailer build.
Replace the van with a Chrysler product van. It'll be dead in no time. Haha And before people start to criticize my statement, I've owned several Chrysler vehicles. I have a ram 1500 currently, but I also have 2023 Outback touring XT. I was thinking about getting a 4-ft trailer for it for certain purposes. I've looked at the harbor freight one, but I thought it was just painted. I wouldn't mind getting a powder coated utility trailer instead of painted.
Thank you. I was the same way about finding a trailer that was affordable and still had what I wanted. It has held up great and I use it a lot. Thanks again for watching.
great video! very thorough and clear. This convinced me it is the better choice over the HF folding type.A trailer definitely has advantages over a pick up.
Great video. My only suggestion would be to put the heads of the carriage bolts to the inside of the bed so there would be a smooth edge for not scratching up any cargo that is hauled.
Hindsight being so good, I might put the carriage bolts for the side rails from the inside, and countersink for the washer and nut in the 2x4 on the outside. Great job though! I have a HF trailer, and it seems I'm always thinking of ways to do it better. Never satisfied.....
Great build, Gene. Looked good finished. Curious how much weigh it is rated for? My only comment on a job well done, may be to torn the carriage bolts around and counter sink the nut side into the 2x4 side. Puts the smooth head to the inside and hides the threads from catching on clothing on the outside. Should lose enough strength since these are just side walls. But, hey, maybe your way has served you fine. Again, thanks for the nice video.
@@DIYGene Are they rated for not above 55 like the HF's? They look like the same cheesy bias ply. I don't want to have to upgrade piecemeal unless it really makes sense.
@@DivineMisterAdVentures , I’m pretty sure they are not rated for speeds above 55. I actually purchased a spare because I don’t want to be stuck somewhere. I do feel the construction of this trailer is better than HF. The axel is a solid piece unlike the HF is a U channel with two axle studs welded in. The paint is more like powder coated and the fenders are better built. I hope that helps.
I looked at both before settling on the Northern. The big differences I found are the axle is a full square tube VS a U tube with spindles welded on the ends. The fenders a better and the bed is 5’ wide VS 4’. It has been a great little trailer. The only negative is the instructions are bad and the wire connectors are not waterproof. Thanks for watching.
Great video. I just bought this trailer and started putting it together. In the beginning I noticed that I didn’t have washers so I thought I would go through the parts list. And going by the parts list I am missing quite a few of them. I called and they are going to send me a new trailer but after watching your video it seems like I might have everything I need. All I really got was the smaller bolts, nuts but no washers. I can get washers no problem. I didn’t get the large middle cross beam like you but never thought of putting the two together to make one. Did your video show all the bolts that you used for the trailer? I might cancel the order they are shipping if you recorded all the bolts that you used.
It came with enough including bolting the two center braces together. I didn’t get any washers either. But I feel the lock nuts should suffice. I hope that helps. Thanks so much for watching.
@@TheCriticalChris I ended up keeping it. At the time I thought I was missing more parts. I called and the manual is really out of date. It calls for a few items that didn’t come with the trailer. I just bought washers to use.
Just saw this video. Excellent build. Thanks for sharing. How satisfied are you after 2 years of use? Any issues? Anything you would have done differently? How heavy is the wood comparing to the plywood since heavier it is you would loose your load carrying capacity. Thanks in advance!
The trailer is doing great. My only advice would be to use different wiring connectors than the non waterproof ones that come with it. Using deck wood has really been a advantage and is holding up great. I don’t think it added much more weight than plywood but will hold up better. The powder coated metal looks as good today as the day I got it. I hope that helps. Thanks for watching.
I bought a log hauler from Northern tools and it is very heavy duty and.quarter of the price of competitors. It was missing a lot of bolts and the heavy duty chain. They credited me for the missing parts. It seems common to be missing parts from there but price and quality is great. Great video, I am thinking about buying the same trailer, how is it holding up?
I off set it so I could use deck screws to attach the deck to the stringers. Otherwise I would have to drill a lot of holes in the metal and use carriage bolts to secure the deck. You can do that, but this seems to make more sense. I hope that answers your question. Thanks for watching.
When running your lights, you went thru the top of thebeem. You should have drilled a hole thru the Beem and used grommets to protect the wires. Just a little something great will save your wiring in years tocome.
Put the heads of the carriage bolts for the upright fence boards on the INSIDE of the trailer, not the other way around. Now you have bolt heads that will chaff and are in the way.
You will have no end of trouble with those Scotch Lock wire connectors. They are not waterproof and they are aluminum cinch to copper wire. You should have at the very least covered the connection with dielectric grease to give your wiring a fighting chance at keeping the connection over time.
You are so right. It’s a shame that those are the connectors that come with the trailer. Maybe I should do a video on updating the wiring. Thanks for the comment.
You did a beautiful and very thorough job on this! You should make kits for these and make some money off of them. It might be tedious, but seriously, very impressive.
Your wire clips are junk, not water tight and you will find out later while they are junk and not water proof. Heat shrink always.. The lights are not waterproof either.
Great video. I was on northern tool website when i saw the aluminum frame version and wondered how to build the decking for the bottom. I knew they don't make a 5x8 piece of plywood so I figured to use decking boards, but didn't know how to fasten them to the frame. So I TH-cam'd it and found you :-) Obviously, you answered my main question but I have a couple more. Would it be a good idea to trim down the 2x4's a little to make them flush with the frame so there isn't a space between the frame and the bottom of your deck? Or would it even matter? Also, "All in", how long did it take you to completely put this entire thing together and approx. how much did you spend on lumber? And do you know if a steel frame is better/worse than an aluminum frame? Thanks again for the video. It was very informative and good. And loved that your son was helping you.
I thought about flushing it to the metal, but because of the bolts that run around the outer edge, I decided to go this route. I holds really well and I have had no issues. I went with the steel because it is powered coated and cheaper. The down side was I had planed on $100 in wood and ended up spending $180. Mainly because of the pandemic lumber prices have gone through the roof. I am hoping they come back down soon. I would also look at that composite decking because it may be cheaper than wood right now. I hope this helps, thanks for watching.
If using treated pine, depending on the treatment it can react with certain metals (Aluminium and Stainless Steel for example). Minimising direct metal contact like Gene did is an excellent idea. If you use composite decking, pre-drill and countersink everything, as it can crack easily if precautions aren't taken (perhaps also use a clutched drill, instead of an impact driver, so they aren't over driven too). I would have installed the Coach Bolts (Carriage Bolts) the other way around too, so that the round head is to the inside. That way you can secure things to the side without worrying about damage from the nuts and remaining bolts. Not as pretty to look at perhaps, but its a utility item!
I felt like they where a little nicer. Like rounded fenders vs square and the metal and its a 5' wide . I think Harbor Freight only has 4' wide. Thanks for watching.
did that with a 98 geo prizm (toyota), it went a couple more years before the seals completely failed. Was on it's way out anyways, was an interesting experiment.
Deck screws are ok for around the house, but on road conditions, they tend to snap, pop out , end up on the road, when the wood gets older, warps, weather beaten, bounced around.
Nice project Gene. If a lack of engine oil isn't doing the job, start adding oil to the transmission, or antifreeze to the brakes, whatever works.. LOL
Scotch locks are terrible. Worked on Nissan, Mercedes Benz, for 7 yrs, and 4 yrs military motor pool. Please, ....never use scotch locks. Solder, and heat shrink, or coat with silicone sealer. Even wire nuts, sealed with silcone , are much better.
Couldn't the carriage bolts be inserted from inside out so they don't intrude on the interior space? Could serve as bungee points too, when they're on the outside.
I wonder after it was all said and done what the final cost was. A 5x8 trailer at Northern Tools is currently $1099 with all metal construction and wire mesh floor.
After the lumber the total was around $700.But I also got a $100. gift card at the time. The mesh one must be on sale, its $1140. here. Thanks for watching.
I just bought this trailer. I too was confused by the center brace and the tongue attachment points that varied from the instructions. I attached them the same way you did although I wished I had seen your video prior to this confusion.. thanks for the video. Great job! Also NT now just offers a $50.00 card instead of $100.
Hello, I haven't read any of the previous comments, but when you can even though you purchased pressure treated lumber, please please rano paint the underside of your trailer and wood, as well. This will save your purchase. As well as putting wire sheeting over them, as well as painting your leaf springs. You have a very good trailer!!! These are the things that I would of should of done to keep my trailer protected. 😢😢😢 . Have a very blessed life you and yours!!! Merry Christmas and a very happy new year 🎉
Thank you so much for the wonderful suggestions. Very good advice for the viewers. Thanks for watching and you and your family have a wonderful Christmas. God bless.
Was hoping you would have confirmed the folded outside fender to fender measurements of the trailer. It is the storage of these trailers that make them an attractive purchase. My condo storage unit is exactly 63 inches wide. If the assembled trailer varies even by half an inch it will not be satisfactory for my requirements. Does anyone know the assembled and folded max width of the Northern Tool Ultra Light 4x8 Folding Trailer???
If I am understanding you correctly, you are asking about the folding and storage. This trailer kit is not a folding bed. It has a true 5’x 8’ bed size. I hope that helps to answer your question. Thanks for watching.
aaww... that van must really love you for just not willing to die, lol. Learning from your instructions I can build this trailer in 3D. Beautiful family, good sense of humor, I just enjoy watching your videos, thank you for taking the time to make them. God bless and hugs from Belgium.
I just saw that as of today, 11/27/21 if you spend over $500 you get a $100 gift card. That is how I bought this trailer kit. I don't know how long it lasts. but visit on-line at www.northerntool.com/. 👍
Its $700 now unfortunately
@@letsgomicroliving_1993_ I would definitely wait for a sale.
Hey gene, think I could bolt a lunette ring on for a pintle hitch instead of the 2" coupler?? Thanks!! 😊
@@foxmulder7616, I bet you could!
Built mine and the Arizona MVD said they couldn't register it and give me plates because the MCO (title) wasn't signed on the back by the dealer, so I had to call northern tool and get them to send me an "original bill of sale" signed by them.. smh hopefully wherever they send me is an "original bill of sale" and the MVD accepts it,,!! The trailer manufacturer is some Chinese factory, the front of the title was signed by some Chinese person but not the back dealer section. Smh lol
I enjoyed this video and your build. For my use, I would have made the following modifications. 1) reverse the carriage bolts so the rounded heads are on the inside. Then cap the outside of the bolts with Acorn round head nuts. That eliminates the studs of the bolts sticking out inside the cargo area and snagging the cargo or your shins and hands. Sharp edges are a no no. 2) I would have run a white ground wire to all the lights. I have experienced too many issues with bad grounds on trailers. For me, well worth the extra cost and effort. 3) grommets on all wire penetrations through the metal holes in the frame. Chaffing wire insulation is definitely a thing. Been there, done that, don’t want to go there again.
I like your use of deck boards instead of plywood. It just looks better and I just like it more than plywood.
Those are all excellent suggestions. I really like the idea of putting the carriage bolts to the inside. I have already scraped myself on one.
Same here with the lighting suggestions - that nice powdercoating breeds grounding issues. Same with the blue connectors - expect to start having corrosion issues with them, as they damage the wire and are not fully waterproof. I never have issues after I went to running a dedicated ground to every light and using shrink connectors.
2 years later and the manual is still not updated. You solved some of my problems, thanks!
I hoped it helped. You would think they would update the instructions at least. Thanks for watching.
I have watched this video of yours at least a half dozen times. Great video!
Bought one and used your video as a reference. Cost me $549 with a $100 gift card as a reward. Used the gift card and got the loading ramp on sale for $79.99 and still had $$ leftover. 5x8 really is a great size!
One of the grease fittings broke when I tried to add lubricant. Called Northern Tool customer service and a few days later, got a new pair of grease fittings. Customer service vas very nice and helpful which makes this trailer just that much better of a purchase. Bravo Northern Tool!!!
I'm glad the video came in handy, because the instructions are not up to much. But mine has been a great trailer. Thanks for watching.
I just bought the aluminum version of this trailer today and should receive it in a week or so. You did a fine job on your bed and stakes. I also think it was a great idea to run the wiring through the wood beams. Thank you for the video.
Wish I'd bought the NT Aluminum 5x8 instead of the HF Steel 4x8 - it would have been MUCH more useful, and better looking, too !!
@@checkyoursix5623 After I assembled the trailer I priced out the lumber for the sides and floor and it was over $200.00! Now 4 months later the prices have finally dropped so i can get the decking and sides and finally finish the trailer.
Thanks, by far the best video out there on the Ironton 5 x 8. I really like your 2 x 4 idea under the decking. Although, I would have made them flush with the top of steel cross channels with the same floating floor like you did. I plan to weld the upper cross channel bolts into ends of 1" sq. tubing for my side panel upright posts, then weld a 1.25" top rail on and something along the bottom and 1/8" HDPE plastic sheets to save weight.
Thank you. Those are some really good ideas. My trailer is holding up great and I never regret buying it. Thanks again for watching.
@@DIYGene Thanks Gene, good to hear it is holding up well.
I bought this. I don't even know if it came with all those parts. I'll have to check.
When connecting the tongue to the frame a spacer inside the channel with a longer bolt running through both sides of the channel would be nice. There are holes on both sides of the channel. Some sch 40 galvanized pipe would work for spacers.
That is a great suggestion. Thanks for sharing.
The scotch locks that were used to connect trailer wiring to your lights are prone to failure. There are other connecters that work a lot better. Ground wires should have bare metal to bare metal so a dremel tool would do the job.
ex. military electronics guy
Totally agree. Surprisingly that’s what the trailer kit came with. I have sense change them out using heat shrink. Thanks so much for watching.
Use caution with the tongue jack. If the trailer has a lot of weight in it those A frame rails will twist a lot.
I replaced the center cross brace with a cut up 4x4 and bolted my jack to that so it's inline with the center of the trailer.... works much better with weight.
That’s a great suggestion. Thanks so much and thanks for watching.
great build. well done
Thanks so much. I am using the heck out of it. Thanks so much for watching.
Nice video thanks for posting, that trailer looks very similar to the Harbour Freight Super Duty 5x8 that I've seen on YT, however, judging from the look of those fenders it would appear to have somewhat better specs. A friendly word of advice, those blue snap together electrical connectors ( known as Scotchloks here in the UK) are most definitely NOT waterproof, after a while they will begin to fail when exposed to rain, road dirt, winter roadsalt etc and are not suitable for an outdoor automotive application. I learned this the hard way. Regards from Wales UK.
That’s good to know. I may put some heat shrink over them. Thanks so much for watching.
@@DIYGene so why did you say they were waterproof?
It’s my understanding that they are. Why would the manufacturer provide connectors that that are not considered waterproof. But if you can improve on it, why not? Thanks for watching.
@@DIYGene They never said they were,......many aren't. Don't assume.
@@brentbradley6711 Thanks so much for adding these amazingly insightful comments Brent! Have you been doing your insecure internet troll act for long? Your really good at it!
Great video!!...trailer looks awesome...hope it has served you will these past 2yrs!...1 quick question....did you bolt the 2x4 cross pieces to the frame cross pieces...or did you leave them floating?
Great question. I cut them tight taped them into place. Then when the decking is screwed down it sandwiches the cross stringers and locks them in. I hope that helps. The trailer has been a great help for me and is still holding up great. Thanks for watching.
If you ever plan on hauling tree branches/ limbs , the gap between the side rails will more than likely be an issue.
Good point. Thanks for watching.
I got the bottom square but the top is off by like 1/4 inch. Also air is trapped in my grease cover, it just pops itself off. Guess i need to prefill with grease to solve this? Too tired today to finsh it.
Thanks Gene, great vid.
Looks awesome, great job!
Thanks so much for watching.
I would have put the carriage bolts in with the heads in the trailer and the nut on the outside. Not as pretty to look at but it’ll give you a flush surface on the inside to slide stuff up against. So you’re less likely to damage it.
Also having the sides tighter together with less of a gap. This way if you need to haul sand or a loose material, you won’t lose as much.
Nice build overall.
Those are excellent suggestions. Thanks so much for watching.
I look forward to seeing your video showing a better way of doing things...
Is it a preferred method to install lumber to screw the deck bed into?
I was "gifted" the 4 × 8 foldable and I need to strip all rotted lumber. Would it weaken frame if drilled for fasteners?
A job well done! 👍
I liked screwing the wood on for straight. But I also installed wood stringers for the wood to be installed on. Would the trailer you have be able to have wood stringers? This could cut down drilling a lot of holes in the metal. I hope that helps. Thanks for watching.
Great video! Best close up look at this trailer. Thinking of doing a teardrop trailer on it. How does it do at higher highway speeds? Thanks!
I have seen a few teardrop trailers built with this trailer. It can handle the speed but I have noticed they usually go to a larger tire and wheel. I hope that helps. Thanks for watching.
Great video . I like the use of the 2”x6” for the deck boards . Maybe it was the camera angle, but it looks like there was no spacing between the boards. Unless you have a great water sealer on them they will swell up when they get wet. Still great job
I used a couple of 16 penny nails through a scrap board to make a spacer between the deck boards. It gives me about a 3/16” space between them. Thanks so much for watching.
@@DIYGene Awesome video! I liked how you spaced the deck boards. However, in my advanced years, I'd suggest screwing only one screw, not two, for a few months, depending upon the moisture content in the wood. I've seen new deck boards pressed against each other with no spacing, screwed on both sides. Then months later STILL end up with a 1/4" gap and split wood where the screw was because of the shrinkage. These lumberyards sell them saturated with water.
@@rusosure7 , That is an excellent suggestion. I was disappointed when I purchased the lumber because it was still wet. I don’t understand why they leave it out side so long uncovered like that. I am waiting until summer to put a sealer on it so it can dry out. Thanks so much for watching.
@@DIYGene I'm no expert, but I assume if the boards are pressure treated, they *must* have to saturate them with a water/chemical solution like in a pressure cooker. And since all this covid nonsense has choked the factory's output, they're probably in the tank on Monday, on the truck Tuesday, in Home Depot Wednesday, and dripping dry on your trailer Thursday. Not any time to dry out.
@@rusosure7 actually Home Depot has them sitting out in the weather for weeks. The wood is wet from the weather not the treatment. Home Depot clams because it’s pressure treated, they don’t need to store it inside. But it’s sure heavy when it’s wet.
Beautiful!
Thank you so much. It has been a really good little trailer. Thanks again for watching.
You did good work for a guy who doesn't even own a pickup truck, LOL (I don't either)
LOL. I did finally get a truck, but after 2 years that trailer is still doing great.
The cross piece for the decking were they 2x4 or 2x6?
I used 2 x 4s and then notched the ends 1/2” so they would fit tight into the 3” channel. I hope that helps. I put a list of all materials in the description below the video. Thanks for watching.
Great video! Love the detail! I was wondering if you had to bolt the 2x4s (cross members you cut on your band saw) to the beams?
I did not. The fit is tight and when you screw down the decking board it can’t go anywhere. I hope that helps. Thanks for watching.
Yes, that does make sense!
Really enjoyed the video! Keep up the good work!!
that size is perfect for me, is that frame safe to use for teardrop camping trailer?
I feel like it is. I was thinking of doing the same thing. Thanks so much for watching
Is it safe to pull these on the freeway?
Yes, I do it all the time. It even comes with a title for registration.
Love it
Thanks so much for watching.
That's a wonderful instructional video!! How do you register it for a tag?
It actually comes with a certificate of title for registration. Thanks so much for watching.
Where did you buy those corner brackets? I like the 2 holes per bracket!
I got them at Home Depot. They come black powder coated and are around $2.50 ea. Thanks for watching
i gotta question on this trailer. the axle it its a square tube of steel or just a u channel?
This one is a square tube. I saw the U channel on some Harbor Freight trailers though. Thanks for watching.
Nice!!
Scratching that new powder coat by assembling the trailer on the driveway made me cringe...But hey, everyone to each their own.
those wiring splicers are garbage.. they will rust out in a few years get some solder shrink wrap combos or but splices at a minimum.
Excellent advice! Thanks for watching
Great job, my only comment would be. The wiring should be soldered and covered with weather/water tight heat shrink tubing. The provided connectors are not weather tight, and are really meant for temporary internal use. In no way your fault, they should have put better connections in the kit, or explained in the directions...
That is good to know and thanks for putting this out there. I figured they would provide water proof connectors. Thanks again for watching.
Also wherever the wiring comes into contact with the fram there needs to be some protect with a small grommet. That will help to make sure the sheathing on the wire isn't scraped off resultng in a short and the lights not working.
Nice. Very nice. Incredible job! This video definitely boosted their trailer sales. Northern Tool should mail you a check for the cost of your trailer.
I would be good with that. LOL! Thanks so much for watching.
Thank you for the great advice on building the trailer. I would put tie down hooks on the top rails to and then both upper and lower in front and space the the tie down hooks. Love the way it turned out.😀🤘
That's an excellent suggestion. Thanks for watching.
Thanks for this great video! This is really well done. I'm on the lookout for a small, cheap trailer!
I especially like how you built the deck. 2x boards are a huge improvement over plywood.
I have so fate been really happy with it. Thanks so much for watching.
The tailgate latches you installed have a tendency to wiggle loose when you're going down the road, leading to a lost tailgate. I'd recommend replacing them with something that securely locks, or adding a swivel catch that will secure the handle. When it's time to rewire the lights, get some good heavy duty jacketed wire and use heat shrink connectors. The wire that comes with those cheap light kits is usually almost as bad as the scotchlocks that they provide. Make your splices in protected locations if you can and protect any of the exposed wire with split loom or tape to keep the sun off of it. Make sure you have a good ground coming from the tow vehicle to the trailer. If the jack breaks, replace it with one with a foot instead of a wheel.
Replacement of jack wheel: speaking from a woman's, I'm much more prefer a wheel on my swing. When the trailer is loaded, the wheel allows me to move my trailer around manually with ease. It also saves stress and strain on my body.
This is a good and informative video. Thank you for posting. I would like to mention about the trailer axels. After putting the hubs on the spindles, install the washer and then the castle nut (as you called it a slot not). You then tighten the castle nut all the way down to preload the bearings. Then back the castle nut off to where the tire will freely spin. Install the carter pin, cap and call it done. With the wire connectors, I couldn't hear weather you said the are or are not weather proof. They are not. I would have use butt connectors with a 3:1 heat shrink which has adhesive on the inside. This will help make it more water proof/resistance. All in all, it works for you and you did a good job showcasing the trailer build.
Replace the van with a Chrysler product van. It'll be dead in no time. Haha
And before people start to criticize my statement, I've owned several Chrysler vehicles.
I have a ram 1500 currently, but I also have 2023 Outback touring XT. I was thinking about getting a 4-ft trailer for it for certain purposes. I've looked at the harbor freight one, but I thought it was just painted. I wouldn't mind getting a powder coated utility trailer instead of painted.
@@m3rdpwr, LOL, I did eventually get a new Ram. I had to give the van away and it’s still going.
This was great!! I haven't been able to find a trailer I like that is affordable, but this I can do. You are a good instructor. Thanks!
Thank you. I was the same way about finding a trailer that was affordable and still had what I wanted. It has held up great and I use it a lot. Thanks again for watching.
That trailer must be worth a lot of money now with the cost of wood. It was a good video and love how you made everything work. 👍👍👍
Thank you, Even at the time I spent almost twice what I budgeted for wood. But it was still a good investment. Thanks so much for watching.
great video! very thorough and clear. This convinced me it is the better choice over the HF folding type.A trailer definitely has advantages over a pick up.
I looked at both too. I hope this helped. Thanks for watching.
Thank you for showing the process I watched many other videos and they didn't give this much detail
Thank you so much. I hope it helps. Thanks again for watching.
Great video. My only suggestion would be to put the heads of the carriage bolts to the inside of the bed so there would be a smooth edge for not scratching up any cargo that is hauled.
That is an excellent suggestion. Thanks for watching.
Maybe I missed it but what did you do with running lights I only could find you wiring tail lights?
Hindsight being so good, I might put the carriage bolts for the side rails from the inside, and countersink for the washer and nut in the 2x4 on the outside.
Great job though! I have a HF trailer, and it seems I'm always thinking of ways to do it better. Never satisfied.....
That’s an excellent idea. I think I will do just that. Thanks so much for watching.
Great build, Gene. Looked good finished. Curious how much weigh it is rated for? My only comment on a job well done, may be to torn the carriage bolts around and counter sink the nut side into the 2x4 side. Puts the smooth head to the inside and hides the threads from catching on clothing on the outside. Should lose enough strength since these are just side walls. But, hey, maybe your way has served you fine. Again, thanks for the nice video.
Excellent suggestion on the carriage bolts. The trailer is rated for 1715 lbs. thanks so much for watching.
@@DIYGene Hey Gene, How do we get a title, vin, or Bill of sale for this???
@@bbur75 it actually comes with a title.
Check the wheel grease as well as the axle shaft for rust.
Good advice. Thanks for watching.
How are those tires and bearings? Crappy or good? Great tute vid.
They are holding up great. I was wondering about the bearings myself. But so far so good. Thanks for watching.
@@DIYGene Are they rated for not above 55 like the HF's? They look like the same cheesy bias ply. I don't want to have to upgrade piecemeal unless it really makes sense.
@@DivineMisterAdVentures , I’m pretty sure they are not rated for speeds above 55. I actually purchased a spare because I don’t want to be stuck somewhere. I do feel the construction of this trailer is better than HF. The axel is a solid piece unlike the HF is a U channel with two axle studs welded in. The paint is more like powder coated and the fenders are better built. I hope that helps.
Looks far better than the harbor freight trailer! Thanks buddy for video.
I looked at both before settling on the Northern. The big differences I found are the axle is a full square tube VS a U tube with spindles welded on the ends. The fenders a better and the bed is 5’ wide VS 4’. It has been a great little trailer. The only negative is the instructions are bad and the wire connectors are not waterproof. Thanks for watching.
Been running without oil for 2 years still won't die...lmao...👍🤣
Great video. I just bought this trailer and started putting it together. In the beginning I noticed that I didn’t have washers so I thought I would go through the parts list. And going by the parts list I am missing quite a few of them. I called and they are going to send me a new trailer but after watching your video it seems like I might have everything I need. All I really got was the smaller bolts, nuts but no washers. I can get washers no problem. I didn’t get the large middle cross beam like you but never thought of putting the two together to make one. Did your video show all the bolts that you used for the trailer? I might cancel the order they are shipping if you recorded all the bolts that you used.
It came with enough including bolting the two center braces together. I didn’t get any washers either. But I feel the lock nuts should suffice. I hope that helps. Thanks so much for watching.
Ask them to comp you the cost of some washers, bro. U don’t need a new trailer for that.
@@TheCriticalChris I ended up keeping it. At the time I thought I was missing more parts. I called and the manual is really out of date. It calls for a few items that didn’t come with the trailer. I just bought washers to use.
Just saw this video. Excellent build. Thanks for sharing.
How satisfied are you after 2 years of use? Any issues? Anything you would have done differently?
How heavy is the wood comparing to the plywood since heavier it is you would loose your load carrying capacity.
Thanks in advance!
The trailer is doing great. My only advice would be to use different wiring connectors than the non waterproof ones that come with it. Using deck wood has really been a advantage and is holding up great. I don’t think it added much more weight than plywood but will hold up better. The powder coated metal looks as good today as the day I got it. I hope that helps. Thanks for watching.
"I've been running it without oil for two years and it still won't die!"
THIS made me subscribe.
Thanks so much for watching.
I bought a log hauler from Northern tools and it is very heavy duty and.quarter of the price of competitors. It was missing a lot of bolts and the heavy duty chain. They credited me for the missing parts. It seems common to be missing parts from there but price and quality is great. Great video, I am thinking about buying the same trailer, how is it holding up?
The trailer is doing great. I use it often and the quality is really good. Thanks so much for watching.
Gene, thank you for this Video. I'm curious why you offset the 1x6 Decking about 1" from the edge of the frame perimeter?
I off set it so I could use deck screws to attach the deck to the stringers. Otherwise I would have to drill a lot of holes in the metal and use carriage bolts to secure the deck. You can do that, but this seems to make more sense. I hope that answers your question. Thanks for watching.
When running your lights, you went thru the top of thebeem. You should have drilled a hole thru the Beem and used grommets to protect the wires. Just a little something great will save your wiring in years tocome.
Excellent point. Thanks for watching.
Put the heads of the carriage bolts for the upright fence boards on the INSIDE of the trailer, not the other way around. Now you have bolt heads that will chaff and are in the way.
Excellent suggestion. Thanks for sharing.
That was a awsome build you make it look easy but I know it was alot of work. Very nice looking trailer 👍👍
It was a lot of work, but I loved every minute of it. I use it so much. Thanks so much for watching.
You will have no end of trouble with those Scotch Lock wire connectors. They are not waterproof and they are aluminum cinch to copper wire. You should have at the very least covered the connection with dielectric grease to give your wiring a fighting chance at keeping the connection over time.
You are so right. It’s a shame that those are the connectors that come with the trailer. Maybe I should do a video on updating the wiring. Thanks for the comment.
Really confused by the 2x4 cross members. why not just bolt to the steel frame and save weight?
I found it much easier to set stringers vs drilling and bolting through the steal. You can do it either way. Thanks for watching.
You did a beautiful and very thorough job on this! You should make kits for these and make some money off of them. It might be tedious, but seriously, very impressive.
Thanks for the great suggestion. And thanks so much for watching!
Your wire clips are junk, not water tight and you will find out later while they are junk and not water proof. Heat shrink always.. The lights are not waterproof either.
Good point. But unfortunately they are the connectors and lights it came with. Your suggestion would make a great upgrade. Thanks for watching.
Great video. I was on northern tool website when i saw the aluminum frame version and wondered how to build the decking for the bottom. I knew they don't make a 5x8 piece of plywood so I figured to use decking boards, but didn't know how to fasten them to the frame. So I TH-cam'd it and found you :-) Obviously, you answered my main question but I have a couple more. Would it be a good idea to trim down the 2x4's a little to make them flush with the frame so there isn't a space between the frame and the bottom of your deck? Or would it even matter? Also, "All in", how long did it take you to completely put this entire thing together and approx. how much did you spend on lumber? And do you know if a steel frame is better/worse than an aluminum frame? Thanks again for the video. It was very informative and good. And loved that your son was helping you.
I thought about flushing it to the metal, but because of the bolts that run around the outer edge, I decided to go this route. I holds really well and I have had no issues. I went with the steel because it is powered coated and cheaper. The down side was I had planed on $100 in wood and ended up spending $180. Mainly because of the pandemic lumber prices have gone through the roof. I am hoping they come back down soon. I would also look at that composite decking because it may be cheaper than wood right now. I hope this helps, thanks for watching.
@@DIYGene Thanks for the tip. I'll check out the composite boards.
Did yours come with the LED lights or the old-timmie ones? :-)
You know I didn’t look. I bet it has the old style 1157 bulbs.
If using treated pine, depending on the treatment it can react with certain metals (Aluminium and Stainless Steel for example). Minimising direct metal contact like Gene did is an excellent idea.
If you use composite decking, pre-drill and countersink everything, as it can crack easily if precautions aren't taken (perhaps also use a clutched drill, instead of an impact driver, so they aren't over driven too).
I would have installed the Coach Bolts (Carriage Bolts) the other way around too, so that the round head is to the inside. That way you can secure things to the side without worrying about damage from the nuts and remaining bolts. Not as pretty to look at perhaps, but its a utility item!
BTW. Your deck plan was awesome. I'm stealing that for mine. Thank you!
It is holding up nicely. Thanks again for watching.
The lumber you used was it treated pressure or not. C. Wigfall South Bend, Indiana
Yes, it was pressure treated. It is holding up great. Thanks for watching.
I also noticed you didnt try triangulating the axel to the ball joint. Even if its off not sure there is much you could do.
Wow, I did not know that. I just followed the instructions or what was instructions. But luckily for me the trailer tows great. Thanks for watching.
I would add rubber grommets where the wire harness goes through the frame. Nice job!
@@carypetrousek15, That is a great suggestion. Thanks for watching.
Just watched this video and wondered what you thought all the wood and various nuts, bolts etc weighed?
I am guessing, but I would say 150lbs
Were the wheels and tires better than the little Harbur Freight 12 in. X 5 in. skinny 2 ply chinese tire setup?
I felt like everything was better than the Harbor Freight trailer from the axle to the finders to the 5’ width rather than 4’.
Are these the same trailers that harbor freight sells? They look about the same but a little more pricy
I felt like they where a little nicer. Like rounded fenders vs square and the metal and its a 5' wide . I think Harbor Freight only has 4' wide. Thanks for watching.
Not supposed to use chrome on impact good way to ruin your tools fyi but whatever gets the job done 😊
I did not know that. Why does chrome damage tools?
Can you still do these kits if you are welding disabled? Can't weld, etc?
Absolutely, I didn’t weld this one and it is still doing great. Thanks for watching.
Cool trailer. I've been thinking of doing the same. Btw...your Jeep reminds me of one I had, years ago. I had the same exact wheels on mine!👍😎
Twins Sons Of Different Mothers. I love that old Jeep. Thanks for watching Dart man!
@@DIYGene Lol...yep!🙂
Where did you buy that trailer? It looks nice. A web site would work.
Ironton is a Northern Tool and Supply brand.
i thought it was foldable! nuts, i watched thw wrong vid. still good tho. thx
The folding one is from Harbor Freight. Thanks for watching. Merry Christmas
I had to stop laughing 😂 before I could watch the rest of the video; really no oil for 2 years your wife didn’t catch on yet😀 2 thumbs up 👍
I’m thinking about draining the transmission next🤪. Thanks for watching.
did that with a 98 geo prizm (toyota), it went a couple more years before the seals completely failed. Was on it's way out anyways, was an interesting experiment.
@@nmatthew7469, LOL. I’m afraid it may be a while before the old Honda Dies. Thanks for watching.
Looks like a black Harborfreight.
Deck screws are ok for around the house, but on road conditions, they tend to snap, pop out , end up on the road, when the wood gets older, warps, weather beaten, bounced around.
Remove the shipping grease in the bearings and repack with good grease.
Excellent suggestion. Thanks so much for watching.
Nice... any idea as to how it can be upgraded to a higher speed rating??
Not sure, but I will look into that.
Nice project Gene. If a lack of engine oil isn't doing the job, start adding oil to the transmission, or antifreeze to the brakes, whatever works.. LOL
I was thinking maybe parking it in a high crime area and leave the key in it. Thank for watching.
The instructions that came with this trailer are CRAP. thanks for this video.
I hope it helped. Thanks for watching.
By the way what is the white wire for?
i pray by this time you've cleaned and replaced that shipping grease from the axles, but it's a good looking trailer
AMAZING
I have really used this trailer. It’s holding up nice. Thanks so much for watching.
great video. set up a table next time and save your back and knees
Good advice. Thanks for watching.
Scotch locks are terrible. Worked on Nissan, Mercedes Benz, for 7 yrs, and 4 yrs military motor pool. Please, ....never use scotch locks. Solder, and heat shrink, or coat with silicone sealer. Even wire nuts, sealed with silcone , are much better.
It’s a shame that this is what comes with the trailer. I have sense changed them out to solder and heat shrink. Thanks for the great suggestions.
Gracias ojala llege al peru el producto IRONTON trailer utility soy carpintero nesecito el producto
Couldn't the carriage bolts be inserted from inside out so they don't intrude on the interior space? Could serve as bungee points too, when they're on the outside.
I wonder after it was all said and done what the final cost was. A 5x8 trailer at Northern Tools is currently $1099 with all metal construction and wire mesh floor.
After the lumber the total was around $700.But I also got a $100. gift card at the time. The mesh one must be on sale, its $1140. here. Thanks for watching.
Harbor freight has same one for 300 bucks lmao
I looked at them too. They are not the same trailers. It’s only 4’x 8’ and is $550. But that might work just fine. Thanks for watching.
I just bought this trailer. I too was confused by the center brace and the tongue attachment points that varied from the instructions. I attached them the same way you did although I wished I had seen your video prior to this confusion.. thanks for the video. Great job!
Also NT now just offers a $50.00 card instead of $100.
Hi David, They really need to update the instructions. Thanks so much for watching.
Never use those connectors
I have had a few people comment on that. Those actually came with the trailer kit. What would you recommend switching them out with?
@@DIYGene the best connection would be a butt connector covered in shrink wrap for waterproofing
@@DIYGene butt connectors from Walmart, solder and heat shrink seal and are waterproof
What happened to the 5 x 10 thy used to sell 10 years ago.
I don’t know. How was it different?
Hello, I haven't read any of the previous comments, but when you can even though you purchased pressure treated lumber, please please rano paint the underside of your trailer and wood, as well. This will save your purchase. As well as putting wire sheeting over them, as well as painting your leaf springs. You have a very good trailer!!! These are the things that I would of should of done to keep my trailer protected. 😢😢😢 . Have a very blessed life you and yours!!! Merry Christmas and a very happy new year 🎉
Thank you so much for the wonderful suggestions. Very good advice for the viewers. Thanks for watching and you and your family have a wonderful Christmas. God bless.
Oooh! Fab Rats music! I like you already, Gene!
Was hoping you would have confirmed the folded outside fender to fender measurements of the trailer. It is the storage of these trailers that make them an attractive purchase. My condo storage unit is exactly 63 inches wide. If the assembled trailer varies even by half an inch it will not be satisfactory for my requirements. Does anyone know the assembled and folded max width of the Northern Tool Ultra Light 4x8 Folding Trailer???
If I am understanding you correctly, you are asking about the folding and storage. This trailer kit is not a folding bed. It has a true 5’x 8’ bed size. I hope that helps to answer your question. Thanks for watching.
aaww... that van must really love you for just not willing to die, lol. Learning from your instructions I can build this trailer in 3D.
Beautiful family, good sense of humor, I just enjoy watching your videos, thank you for taking the time to make them. God bless and hugs from Belgium.
Thanks Daniella, I feel I am truly blessed. And I so enjoy making these videos. Thanks again for watching and for your participation!