Great video. I always did it this way when having tubed tyres. One time I could not get the tyre to seat after several attempts, so went to the dealer who sold me the tyre and pleaded. Friendly mechanic fiddled for a bit, then blew the tyre up until it seated properly, then dropped the pressure back to normal. I was amazed that he inflated it to 100+ PSI, and said that I would have been scared that the tyre would burst. He told me that the rim would go before the tyre would. I’m still not entirely convinced, but from then on was not afraid to inflate to a high pressure to make the tyre seat properly, and nothing ever went amiss. My past few bikes had tubeless tyres, but I’m back to tubes again in the Triumph Street Scrambler.
this is what I call the right way, im not good a teaching so I was showing a friend different videos and seen 3 where the ppl put the tire half on the rim then tucked the tube in. This is how I always done it and never had a issue and it makes things easy.
Thanks Paul! I am contemplating changing a rear tyre soon but it has been at least 35 years since I last did it and I need some encouragement to test my ageing body by attempting the job myself. The last tyre I fitted was a Dunlop K70 rear tyre and it gave me a terrific improvement in handling after I had taken it off again, repaired the inner tube that I had scarred and put it back on.
I now use similar K-70 pattern tyres front and back on my 350, which has the standard factory steel rims. I have had to repair two punctures at the roadside in the past and have changed tyres a number of times after wearing them out. I’m really surprised how your tyre seemed a lot less tight on the rim than I found with any of mine. Great video, btw!
Cheers Paul...never my favourite task!.. I do like to bounce the tyre a few times too before fully inflating and realising that I've pinched the tube!!...AAAAGHH!!!!
This video is great. I remember trying it this way when I first bought my motorcycle. I could hear threads popping the whole time, so I said I'd bring it to a motorcycle shop. The tire actually stalled their machine, they had a hell of a time too. It was definitely the tire the manual said to use, so I'm not sure what the issue was. I've had no problem changing car, truck, and tractor tires. But man, that motorcycle wheel defeated me and that tire machine.
Be sure to check Avon tyres for a small round silver foil sticker on the inside and if you find one, REMOVE IT before fitting the tyre ! - I fitted a new Avon 'Safety Mileage' on the rear wheel of my old 500 Bullet, noticed the sticker but ignored it, all went well for a couple of hundred miles ,then it punctured. I checked the tyre but nothing untoward was visible. Took the wheel out and the tyre off then noticed that the sticker had come adrift (probably during fitting) screwed itself up and, being sticky and made of alloy foil, had chewed up a section of the tube. Sure enough, when I checked the tube this was the source of the puncture. I rang the wheel-builder (who I'd bought the tyre from) and told him, he had three others in stock, all had a foil sticker inside..
I wish I had seen this video before I changed my tires a few months ago. I watched a dozen different tire changing videos and nobody put the valve stem into the rim like the Paul did. His way seems like a much easier way to do it. I put the tire on then I slid the tube into it and tried to get the stem into the rim hole by reaching into the tire. I couldn't do it. I eventually bought a little tool that screws into the end of the valve and has a wire on it...which lets you pull the stem through the hole. Next time I'll do it Paul's way.
Just few hours ago tried this method. First time doing fairly beefy but short wall custom tire with tube. Always tucked tube before on my enduro tires,but ran into so much issues that fatigued nicked one. Tried this method and it worked much better.
Done! All in like ten minutes. I just got done changing my tire and it took me multiple hours 😩 I heard a lot of squeaking there through- no talc or lube 🤔 Meanwhile, this was the first video I saw where someone did it the way my bike's manual said to. The only mistake I believe I made was to not pull the core out of the valve stem or simply left too much air in the tube when spooning it on because I pinched my first tube 😞
Man I wish I had seen this before I did my first tire a couple of weeks ago. Had a hellacious time getting the valve stem through the hole. Should have done it your way.
Paul, Would appreciate your thoughts on the perennial argument about the valve stem nut inside the rim or removing it and putting the two nuts on the outside…thanks.
I just changed a modern classic attack tyre on a BMW snowflake wheel. Same technique, but the tubed/tubeless tyre is a lot stiffer and needs lube to get it on. It seated with proper lube, 60 PSI and a run up the road. Not my favourite job either! Getting the 10 years fitted original off by breaking the bead: Don't mess with bodyweight or clamps, go straight for lowering the car onto the bead via a bit of wood. A big bench vise will do it with a struggle.
Very apt as I have just ordered two new tyres for my Bullet 65!, Have you seen the zip tie method? That looks to make it quite easy too? Thanks for sharing.
G’day Paul I enjoy your channel. I’ve been waiting for a real mechanic to do a tyre change on TH-cam. I’ve a question to ask and if I didn’t respect your abilities I wouldn’t ask. I was taught in the early 1960’s, that after you put the inner tube into the tyre, that’s partially inflated, and you are putting the final tyre bead back in place. You don’t use tyre levers. You use a hide /rubber hammer. Any thoughts? I realise that all my bikes with alloy rims were tubeless. I spent a lot of my working life riding and working on Honda ct110’s. Those and my British bikes from my youth all had steel rims. At work I’ve seen a lot of tyre lever marked rims and seen I lot of pinched tubes. The RACQ, RAC /AA equivalent stopped repairing punctures for my firm they pinched too many tubes.
Hi Bernie and thanks, glad you like my channel! The soft mallet method is an option and good tyre levers are a must, I suppose to some degree it is just a case of 'each to their own', though.
Thank you, Paul. I'm considering a Triumph tiger 800 with spoked wheels & alloy rims, I'll have a talk with one of the tyre guys about a good brand of tyre lever.
@@berniebne8243 I usually try to get as much of the bead as possible over the rim by standing on it...it helps if you weigh plenty. Fitting the valve stem first is a great idea, I have been changing tyres for more than 40 years, and never even thought of that! The only tips I can offer are; make sure the tyre is warm - they do go on easier. And use plenty of lubricant. My current choice is 50/50 mix of car shampoo and water.
Not that difficult really with classic tyres like that. Modern low profile high performance tyres are not so easy. No tube to worry about but tyre soap/lube and rim protectors are a must.
Out of necessity, I once fitted a tubeless rear tyre to a Honda VF400F I once owned, with just a bicycle hand pump and washing up liquid - that took some doing to pop it onto the beads, I can tell you!
I understand that and no offence taken, it is definitely messy in there, no doubt, but my father and my brother tidied up in there once to do me a favour [they thought] and I had a hell of a job finding stuff after that!
You make that job look easy . Now I will try .
Great video. I always did it this way when having tubed tyres. One time I could not get the tyre to seat after several attempts, so went to the dealer who sold me the tyre and pleaded. Friendly mechanic fiddled for a bit, then blew the tyre up until it seated properly, then dropped the pressure back to normal. I was amazed that he inflated it to 100+ PSI, and said that I would have been scared that the tyre would burst. He told me that the rim would go before the tyre would. I’m still not entirely convinced, but from then on was not afraid to inflate to a high pressure to make the tyre seat properly, and nothing ever went amiss. My past few bikes had tubeless tyres, but I’m back to tubes again in the Triumph Street Scrambler.
Thanks Paul for giving inspiration to one of the most soul destroying jobs
Just got stuck with doing it the other way round. Will now try it your way. Thx for posting
this is what I call the right way, im not good a teaching so I was showing a friend different videos and seen 3 where the ppl put the tire half on the rim then tucked the tube in. This is how I always done it and never had a issue and it makes things easy.
Thanks Paul! I am contemplating changing a rear tyre soon but it has been at least 35 years since I last did it and I need some encouragement to test my ageing body by attempting the job myself. The last tyre I fitted was a Dunlop K70 rear tyre and it gave me a terrific improvement in handling after I had taken it off again, repaired the inner tube that I had scarred and put it back on.
When I’m out on my push bike rather than arse about with patches I carry spare tubes. And I do exactly what you’ve done.
I now use similar K-70 pattern tyres front and back on my 350, which has the standard factory steel rims. I have had to repair two punctures at the roadside in the past and have changed tyres a number of times after wearing them out. I’m really surprised how your tyre seemed a lot less tight on the rim than I found with any of mine. Great video, btw!
Cheers Paul...never my favourite task!.. I do like to bounce the tyre a few times too before fully inflating and realising that I've pinched the tube!!...AAAAGHH!!!!
That's the way I always do it.Also,partially inlate and bounce wheel on floor all around circumference to get tyre seated uniformally.
This video is great. I remember trying it this way when I first bought my motorcycle. I could hear threads popping the whole time, so I said I'd bring it to a motorcycle shop. The tire actually stalled their machine, they had a hell of a time too. It was definitely the tire the manual said to use, so I'm not sure what the issue was. I've had no problem changing car, truck, and tractor tires. But man, that motorcycle wheel defeated me and that tire machine.
Lovely to see a master at work. On push bikes I’ve always used the same technique. Very sensible way to avoid nipping the tube.
Brilliant putting the valve through the rim FIRST !!!
You are THE MAN, "Bullet Whisperer"!
Thanks, Bill!
Thanks for the vid. I like the idea of putting the tube in first.
have just ordered a pair of avon safety mileage mk2 plus tubes and tapes,
so will give it me best shot paul, without the luxury of a compressor 😊👍
thank you so much. i was trying it without pumping air in the tube
Be sure to check Avon tyres for a small round silver foil sticker on the inside and if you find one, REMOVE IT before fitting the tyre ! - I fitted a new Avon 'Safety Mileage' on the rear wheel of my old 500 Bullet, noticed the sticker but ignored it, all went well for a couple of hundred miles ,then it punctured. I checked the tyre but nothing untoward was visible. Took the wheel out and the tyre off then noticed that the sticker had come adrift (probably during fitting) screwed itself up and, being sticky and made of alloy foil, had chewed up a section of the tube. Sure enough, when I checked the tube this was the source of the puncture. I rang the wheel-builder (who I'd bought the tyre from) and told him, he had three others in stock, all had a foil sticker inside..
I wish I had seen this video before I changed my tires a few months ago. I watched a dozen different tire changing videos and nobody put the valve stem into the rim like the Paul did. His way seems like a much easier way to do it. I put the tire on then I slid the tube into it and tried to get the stem into the rim hole by reaching into the tire. I couldn't do it. I eventually bought a little tool that screws into the end of the valve and has a wire on it...which lets you pull the stem through the hole. Next time I'll do it Paul's way.
Thanks for the upload, we'll handy
That was easy... thanks for sharing
Not seen it done like that before, I suppose that might reduce the risk of nipping a completely flat tube. Thanks for sharing.
Just few hours ago tried this method. First time doing fairly beefy but short wall custom tire with tube. Always tucked tube before on my enduro tires,but ran into so much issues that fatigued nicked one. Tried this method and it worked much better.
Thankyou for sharing. I'm looking forward to seeing the bike it belongs to, from what l can see at the moment, it looks pretty good.
Thanks!
Now that's how to do a valve stem!
Start & Finish at the valve stem - Tony Catten, Merton Technical College 1981/82
Yes, I always do.
With minimum tools professional work congrats!
Thanks! 👍
Done! All in like ten minutes.
I just got done changing my tire and it took me multiple hours 😩
I heard a lot of squeaking there through- no talc or lube 🤔
Meanwhile, this was the first video I saw where someone did it the way my bike's manual said to. The only mistake I believe I made was to not pull the core out of the valve stem or simply left too much air in the tube when spooning it on because I pinched my first tube 😞
This video saved my sanity.
His workshop looks like my living room after the grandchildren have been and gone.
That is me in my workshop and it looks like that because it is a busy place, with little time for making it look spick and span!
It’s a garage I think every work garage is like that 😂😂😂
Man I wish I had seen this before I did my first tire a couple of weeks ago. Had a hellacious time getting the valve stem through the hole. Should have done it your way.
Paul,
Would appreciate your thoughts on the perennial argument about the valve stem nut inside the rim or removing it and putting the two nuts on the outside…thanks.
I remove the inside nut, but keep the washer and just have one nut on the outside, finger tight. Others may do different, but that is my own way.
you make it look so ease lol but its hard to do I think
I just changed a modern classic attack tyre on a BMW snowflake wheel. Same technique, but the tubed/tubeless tyre is a lot stiffer and needs lube to get it on. It seated with proper lube, 60 PSI and a run up the road. Not my favourite job either! Getting the 10 years fitted original off by breaking the bead: Don't mess with bodyweight or clamps, go straight for lowering the car onto the bead via a bit of wood. A big bench vise will do it with a struggle.
Yes, I've used the car via plank method as well. Works a treat
got my wheel don im going to give people the link to your video in my next video thanks from ron
Thanks, Ron!
Have you found that in recent years getting the bead to set parallel with the rim has become more difficult?
Yes, probably thanks to so many tyres being for tubeless applications, I would think.
Very apt as I have just ordered two new tyres for my Bullet 65!, Have you seen the zip tie method? That looks to make it quite easy too? Thanks for sharing.
What do you do with these Avon Roadriders?
They are SO stiff! No suppleness or give in them at all.
G’day Paul I enjoy your channel. I’ve been waiting for a real mechanic to do a tyre change on TH-cam. I’ve a question to ask and if I didn’t respect your abilities I wouldn’t ask. I was taught in the early 1960’s, that after you put the inner tube into the tyre, that’s partially inflated, and you are putting the final tyre bead back in place. You don’t use tyre levers. You use a hide /rubber hammer. Any thoughts?
I realise that all my bikes with alloy rims were tubeless. I spent a lot of my working life riding and working on Honda ct110’s. Those and my British bikes from my youth all had steel rims. At work I’ve seen a lot of tyre lever marked rims and seen I lot of pinched tubes. The RACQ, RAC /AA equivalent stopped repairing punctures for my firm they pinched too many tubes.
Hi Bernie and thanks, glad you like my channel! The soft mallet method is an option and good tyre levers are a must, I suppose to some degree it is just a case of 'each to their own', though.
Thank you, Paul. I'm considering a Triumph tiger 800 with spoked wheels & alloy rims, I'll have a talk with one of the tyre guys about a good brand of tyre lever.
@@berniebne8243 I usually try to get as much of the bead as possible over the rim by standing on it...it helps if you weigh plenty. Fitting the valve stem first is a great idea, I have been changing tyres for more than 40 years, and never even thought of that! The only tips I can offer are; make sure the tyre is warm - they do go on easier. And use plenty of lubricant. My current choice is 50/50 mix of car shampoo and water.
Brilliant thanks.
Do you need rim tape?
Yes indeed!
I was warned against using washing up liquid as it contains salt.
Not much washing up liquid in the mix - maybe 10 percent. I have been using it for decades, with no problems.
but wat a grate video thanks
Glad you liked it
Hey Paul!!
I own a Royal Enfield classic 350 BS3 variant. What is to be done to increase its bhp?? Any performance spares available ??
You got it done but at many wrong doing
Perhaps you could get out of your armchair and make a video showing how to do it right, then.
Not that difficult really with classic tyres like that. Modern low profile high performance tyres are not so easy. No tube to worry about but tyre soap/lube and rim protectors are a must.
Out of necessity, I once fitted a tubeless rear tyre to a Honda VF400F I once owned, with just a bicycle hand pump and washing up liquid - that took some doing to pop it onto the beads, I can tell you!
It wasnt a criticism. The joke obviously fell flat with you.
I understand that and no offence taken, it is definitely messy in there, no doubt, but my father and my brother tidied up in there once to do me a favour [they thought] and I had a hell of a job finding stuff after that!