Great video Todd! I’ve had the DIC-20 for 5-6 years now. Such a valuable tool and water spot issues are a thing of the past. Water is very hard where I live in California. I go through resin cartridges quite rapidly as I use for initial rinse, foam cannon water and the rest of the rinse processes. I just wish the cartridges weren’t quite so expensive as $250 for four cartridges is pricey. Still, maintaining 3 cars and providing detailing services and maintenance washes for others make them worth it in my eyes.
We have insanely hard water here in NM. I'm talking 800-1000 TDS water that will destroy 4000 gallon rated resin tanks in 4-6 final rinses. The best solution I've found that gets me zero TDS water is running a 50 GPD reverse osmosis filter that pushes 7 TDS water through my resin tank where zero tds water fills a 35 gallon water tank I bought from Home Depot. One tank will fully wash my F150 and my wife's GTI. The tank isn't very big...taking up only a small corner of my two-car garage, and being only 35 gallons, it takes less than a day to fill. I haven't noticed much of a change in my water bill since I really only have to fill it once every two weeks for maintenance washes. So, my current setup is a little overkill, but it makes the water drinkable as well. It's garden hose > sediment filter > carbon filter > RO > Resin > tank > boost pump > pressure washer. Both the boost pump and the Krenzle have auto on/off pressure switches and works flawlessly.
Thank you for posting such an in-depth and very informational and also ENJOYABLE video about the CR Spotless Systems. I literally just ordered mine for my detailing passion and recent upstart detailing business no more than 1 hour before finding this video and now I have even more excitement once it ships. I've already been able to deliver superior results of my details and routine washes but now I cant wait to see the impactful difference this will make. Cheers my friend to an awesome video !
Hate to say this, but this was not in-depth Todd. There was no pricing on materials or anything associated with actual running costs. There was nothing about what kind of filters were in those canisters other than a DI of unspecific origin. It did not discuss at what temps DI stops working, it did not talk about what flow rates are need, nor did it talk about how to actually use it in the best way.
I started washing cars of my own and families practicing cuz I want to start washing cars ok the side for a side hustle and noticed the water spots no matter how fast I was in drying. Gonna have to save up to get one of these 💪🙏
I've been using my DIC-20 for five years now and really like it. My unfiltered water out of the spigot is around 75-100. Using the CR does bring down the TDS to zero however the resin doesn't last very long. I only use it on the final rinse using the sprayer that came with the unit and installed the modification tubes that are available and while the tubes did help some as far as getting a few more washes overall it still wasn't what I was hoping for. I'm gonna try using a water filter from the spigot and then to the CR to see if the longetivity is better. Overall though for the most part it does perform as intended. On a side note I got from you the Polish Angel High Gloss paste wax and that stuff is AMAZING!! Never in my life have I ever experienced a wax like that.
Yeah not impressed at all from how little the cartridge lasted me from the spotless system. I didn’t keep count but I would say maybe 12 washes and that’s ONLY using it to RINSE
Another great video Todd, and just at the right time. I'm actually looking at a WFS now. As a prior Elite Detailer Academy graduate , I'll be able to take advantage of my EDA discount from your store!! Ken
As someone who has been using DI for a long time, I can tell you that he really did not. So much more to a good result and this system is VERY basic and expensive to run.
Unless you have more than one flowing oil well in your front yard... you need to RO the water before finishing it with DI... I just double RO run 300 to 600 ppm water and single run 150 ppm city water through a 4×40 Hydron RO filter. I also have DOW Filmtek RO filters that will single stage down to 0 ppm or what we call zero pure water down from 200 ppm. All RO filters need to be preceded with both block and granular carbon filters. The more carbon stages the better, the bigger the carbon filters the better (2.5 × 20, 4×20). City water is contaminated with sodium hypochlorite which is made with caustic soda and salt. A shop or mobile detailer need a 4x40 RO can with carbon prefilters and plastic storage tanks and a TDS meter. (To drink lab grade zero pure water everybody need to run this ultra pure water back through an alkaline filter to remineralize the water). Otherwise it is not safe to drink. Hopefully this helps because getting your water right is paramount in all aspects of high production high-end speciality cleaning. Welcome to the zero pure filtered water revolution! Distilled water is zero pure and can be used to clean glass and battery powered back pack sprayers can be used with zero pure water to rinse off non filtered water. I use 3 gallon pump up sprayers, battery powered back pack sprayers (j racenstein and company) and 25 gallon plastic tank battery powered weed sprayers that run off of jump start batteries and small hand held mini sprayers to spray soap and water. Rain water is about 10 ppm and needs a sedement pre-filter before carbon.
It really depends on your needs. I run "pure" DI system that gives me 1500 US gal for 25l of granulate, and it never gets above 20 PPM. Reality is that anything below 10 PPM is spotless and depending on the water in your area, more often than not, 20 to 30 PPM will be spotless too. Heck some places can go as high as 60 PPM without causing water spots. 0 PPM is cool, but unless you wash glass, it can sometimes do more harm than good. 0 PPM water can be very corrosive on some metals and other finishes and is not really that suitable for washing cars. Great for windows but not cars. I have a PPM of 380 on average where I live, and the key to a good DI system is to make sure that you control scales on the resin, and that you use a a watersoftener specific bedding, a DFQ bedding, as the last stage before your actual DI virgin mix. Add to that one must control flow rate and use a good DI tank with proper swirl. As with an RO system, controlling flow rate means that you need a "sump tank" to work from, not take the water straight off the DI. A flow of more than 1 gph through a 20l quality bedding with a proper swirl tank is no bueno. And taking the water straight off normal 4.5 x 20 Big Blue tanks at anything more than 0.5 gpm, is a really bad solution. I get it, these systems Todd shows are super easy, and if you like forking out a new 20" insert for every 100 gallon of water, sure go ahead, but also remember that a fully passive DI system set up properly can be perfectly cost effective for the hobby detailers if used correctly. There's no need to lay on high pH prewash or touchless wash soaps with DI water. And rinsing soap off with DI water absolutely sucks. DI works great for the soap bucket, the pH neutral foam cannon and rinsing off the tap water and that's how it is best used. Only using purified water is a waste and makes the job a lot harder in the end as most soaps, especially the pH neutral snow foams not only take forever to rinse off with purified water, but also leaves residues the purified water can't remove. I use less than 7 US gal of purified water for an entire contact car wash, and that includes the 2.75 gallon that goes in my soap bucket. Completely foaming a car takes less than a gallon if you know what you're doing. So one always have to consider the expense of DI vs. RO. And if one want an RO system that does not rely on a tank, but constant flow for a good high flow pressure washer, then that's going to be a pretty big and expensive RO system. Having a system that will contiuously flow 175+ US gal per hour is a pretty big system that will need three 4040 canisters unless the pressure is 250+ psi. Most won't even have the initial water flow to support that type of RO. In short, there are many ways to skin a cat. Is this cheap simple version one? Not really. But both a properly done DI and RO can work depending on what is needed and how it's done.
I’ve got about 900+ PPM at my house. I’m on well water of course. I purchased a system from Amazon. About $300 or so. The lowest it’s getting my PPM is down to about 400. So it’s better but not good. Don’t really notice a difference with the car washing process. Still spots and the water marks that drip out after drying. Is there a better resin to purchase for very hard well water? How do I get it down to low low numbers as every system advertises?
Nice review, Question, I have a 16,000 grain water softener alone with the spotless 20 DI filters can I put the water softener inline before the spotless 20 DI filter? Is there any benefit by doing this? Thanks
Great Video - I have the option is piping standard cold water, which is hard or softener water (have a water softener) to the outside tap for washing the car. Should I pipe the softener water?
That's going to be a very difficult task as that matte / satin finish can get damaged very easily. If you use a traditional water spot remover, you risk damaging the finish. You might want to look around the detailing world to see if anybody is making a water spot remover that is designed specifically for those types of finishes. If one exists, it's not something that I am aware of.
@@Madcarcareproducts I only used it as final rinse for maybe a year, then I just left it on full time. All in it only lasted maybe 2.5 years. Not the best. I use a DI pro 100, not the cr spotless thing. The DI pro 100 is way bigger and lasts longer, but changing the resin is annoying, and I just haven't done it. LOL.
I have a spigot coming off of my traditional salt based water softener filtration system in my garage. Would it make sense as well as lengthen the life of the DI system media to connect it to my water softener system?
I have a whole-house water filtration system, but found that the TDS numbers were still very high. So my Simple Chuck runs after the whole house system.
Idk, I have solutions for avoiding/dealing with water spotting. However, I really need a pressure washer and have no other good/better solution for efficiently cleaning dirty vehicles.
pro shops for entire process..diy or home based shop..just the rinse. Esoteric is one of the ELITE detail shops in all the world. Cartridges are a cheap/neccesity for them. Esoteric rocks!
Correct, or 400 gallons with the Simple Chuck. Those numbers are placeholders though as the longevity is directly related to the condition of the water.
I have 250 PPM from tap. What do you recommend since I have tried other systems but after 3 washes the systems are useless. Also do you prefilter and if so what?
250 isn't too bad. I would probably go with one of the larger systems as it's more convenient with less frequent changing of media. With good DI systems, a pre-filter is not necessary.
If you have 250 PPM, go with a large 17.8 liter swirl tank like the FlowAround Aqua Clean tank. Much more efficient than those Big Blues. If you do your setup right, with proper flow and a small tank to take the water off of, then you should see at least 800 US gal of quality DI water that has a PPM of less than 60 all the time. I'm guessing that part of your problem is the flow rate. Especially with the little 10" tanks, even flow above 0.75 gpm can greatly diminish the output after a few times. And with good DI systems, prefiltering to avoid scaling of the resin is a must in a lot of areas.
I don't know that it has a positive effect on the longevity of it, but I have a water softener / filtration system at my house, plus I use one of these as well.
I have had a conversation with my Culligan guy about this, and it’s actually slightly worse with soft water. The TDS in soft water is the same as it just swaps a salt molecule in place of the calcium in some cases. It can bring down the TDS some, and I have measured that, but apparently it’s harder on the resin to remove any salt from the water than calcium. Soft water will help some with spotting however on its own. I personally have an Reverse osmosis filter with a tank, and wash from that, then run it through the CR for a rinse. The RO water is under 10ppm which is pretty spot free, then running it through the CR makes it zero, and the resin lasts a really long time as it doesn’t have to reduce the TDS very much. Really hard water ( high tds ) burns through the resin fast.
@@johnwalters878 I heard something similar, so that's why I have been holding off on any such devices. The regular water softener is already a major upgrade in terms of dilution ratios for shampoos and other cleaners, and I can avoid washing in the sun at most times, so water spots are not really an issue for me, but it would be nice to sometimes just rinse the car and be done with it, instead of spending another half hour drying the car.
Yeah at least with soft water you reduce the chance of spotting and the soaps work much better. And if you already have the softener then it’s a decent option. I have a water softener for my house, but running soft water to my shop would have been a pain, and my sprinkler system main is right next to the shop.
Anything less than 2.5 GPM and you're good to go. I just ordered the Active 2.3 so I'm pretty excited to see how that works out. Just released on April 22, 2024.
That is actually the textbook way of doing proper DI. By running a reservoir or sump to draw from, you can greatly reduce the flow rate over the resin. This will have a huge effect on the quality of the water. A good system for that kind of work will be a 5 micron sediment filter, 0.5 micron carbon filter, a high flow DFQ resin stage and then a DI with virgin resin. That way you can slowly fill your tank at 0.5 gpm. Then you should also use a good canister for the last DI stage that is a proper swirl tank. The AquaClean FlowAround tanks are great for this. The sediment and carbon filter is there to make sure that your water does not go bad and keep the resins from scaling. What's your PPM?
Yup. And depending on what contaminants your area has, you can get them at as low as with 20 PPM. I know for a fact that Esoteric does great detail work, but some of Todd's commercials are a bit much. This is one of them.
so this is for doing it outside?? cause when it rains and your car gets wet, same thing gonna happen hey, spots. if you drive your car in the rain that is.
Those a different types of spots, and they are a lot less harmful. Calcium spots are the most harmful and they are also the most visible, and raid does not do that.
Use it during the entire process...pre-rinse, wash, final rinse. You have just as much chance to get spotting during the wash as you do the final rinse.
Yeah not impressed at all from how little the cartridge lasted me from the spotless system. I didn’t keep count but I would say maybe 12 washes and that’s ONLY using it to RINSE
No. And where do you live where you have 8 gpm in a house? Most have half that. Todd fails to mention that these simple systems that just use Big Blue cans rarely like more than 0.5 gpm of flow to be properly effective.
@@AB-80X The Spotless system is designed for 2.5 GPM or less. Did you really mean .5 or did you mean 5 because .5 would be totally worthless to clean anything.
That was pretty much the best shot of the whole video. Here’s your entry hotsy, here’s your giant resin filter cart, next to one another. There’syour setup. Should make it part of the the video thumbnail for easy reference 👍 as it turns out my water isn’t very hard (mostly nitrates from local farming) so I’m exploring cheaper / lighter / simpler options, as well as investing in water reclaim beforehand. Distillation as well. Would be nice to get to a somewhat closed loop instead of dumping grey water in the sewer.
yes I would agree that the initial investment is high, but the refill cost is not that bad plus the system is a very high-quality unit and is much easier to change out the cartridges over A big tank where you have to dump out nasty resin..
No, as we are simply selling the replacement media for the prices set by the industry. The media for deionized systems are not inexpensive like salt for a home water softener (completely different processes), but compared to the cost for fixing water spot issues on automotive paint, it's cheap!
@@Esotericdetail 90 degrees outside is okay? Do you store your pressure washer and filter outside at the shop or bring it inside every time ? Thanks 🙏🏻
@@jjjjjjjjjjjhjjjjjhjj At our shop, the water filtration system is mounted indoors. We bring our pressure washer in every day to keep it out of the rain / snow.
Filtering water is so important. It is not discussed enough. Great job!
nah fr tho
u can do everything else right and the water will mess it all up
Great video Todd! I’ve had the DIC-20 for 5-6 years now. Such a valuable tool and water spot issues are a thing of the past. Water is very hard where I live in California. I go through resin cartridges quite rapidly as I use for initial rinse, foam cannon water and the rest of the rinse processes. I just wish the cartridges weren’t quite so expensive as $250 for four cartridges is pricey. Still, maintaining 3 cars and providing detailing services and maintenance washes for others make them worth it in my eyes.
We have insanely hard water here in NM. I'm talking 800-1000 TDS water that will destroy 4000 gallon rated resin tanks in 4-6 final rinses. The best solution I've found that gets me zero TDS water is running a 50 GPD reverse osmosis filter that pushes 7 TDS water through my resin tank where zero tds water fills a 35 gallon water tank I bought from Home Depot. One tank will fully wash my F150 and my wife's GTI. The tank isn't very big...taking up only a small corner of my two-car garage, and being only 35 gallons, it takes less than a day to fill. I haven't noticed much of a change in my water bill since I really only have to fill it once every two weeks for maintenance washes. So, my current setup is a little overkill, but it makes the water drinkable as well. It's garden hose > sediment filter > carbon filter > RO > Resin > tank > boost pump > pressure washer. Both the boost pump and the Krenzle have auto on/off pressure switches and works flawlessly.
Yes, I’m in So Cal also the water is very hard, did you purchase your setup on line or in a brick and mortar store.
Thank you for posting such an in-depth and very informational and also ENJOYABLE video about the CR Spotless Systems. I literally just ordered mine for my detailing passion and recent upstart detailing business no more than 1 hour before finding this video and now I have even more excitement once it ships. I've already been able to deliver superior results of my details and routine washes but now I cant wait to see the impactful difference this will make. Cheers my friend to an awesome video !
Thanks. I just wish we would have found you an hour earlier so we could have earned your business!
Hate to say this, but this was not in-depth Todd. There was no pricing on materials or anything associated with actual running costs. There was nothing about what kind of filters were in those canisters other than a DI of unspecific origin. It did not discuss at what temps DI stops working, it did not talk about what flow rates are need, nor did it talk about how to actually use it in the best way.
I started washing cars of my own and families practicing cuz I want to start washing cars ok the side for a side hustle and noticed the water spots no matter how fast I was in drying. Gonna have to save up to get one of these 💪🙏
CR spotless is what I use! Works great!
I've been using my DIC-20 for five years now and really like it. My unfiltered water out of the spigot is around 75-100. Using the CR does bring down the TDS to zero however the resin doesn't last very long. I only use it on the final rinse using the sprayer that came with the unit and installed the modification tubes that are available and while the tubes did help some as far as getting a few more washes overall it still wasn't what I was hoping for. I'm gonna try using a water filter from the spigot and then to the CR to see if the longetivity is better. Overall though for the most part it does perform as intended. On a side note I got from you the Polish Angel High Gloss paste wax and that stuff is AMAZING!! Never in my life have I ever experienced a wax like that.
Hi.. did you try the water filter from spigot to this puppy? If so, how did/is that working for you?
Yeah not impressed at all from how little the cartridge lasted me from the spotless system. I didn’t keep count but I would say maybe 12 washes and that’s ONLY using it to RINSE
I thought water filtration systems were super complicated till you just reviewed this, this is gnarly and perfectly what I need
Glad it worked for you! Quite simple actually...
Another great video Todd, and just at the right time. I'm actually looking at a WFS now. As a prior Elite Detailer Academy graduate , I'll be able to take advantage of my EDA discount from your store!!
Ken
Man this guy really answered all my questions!
As someone who has been using DI for a long time, I can tell you that he really did not. So much more to a good result and this system is VERY basic and expensive to run.
@@AB-80X what is your go to for water spots?
Great job explaining this. Thank you.
Just ordered one! You guys rock!
Thank you for your business!
Unless you have more than one flowing oil well in your front yard... you need to RO the water before finishing it with DI... I just double RO run 300 to 600 ppm water and single run 150 ppm city water through a 4×40 Hydron RO filter. I also have DOW Filmtek RO filters that will single stage down to 0 ppm or what we call zero pure water down from 200 ppm.
All RO filters need to be preceded with both block and granular carbon filters. The more carbon stages the better, the bigger the carbon filters the better (2.5 × 20, 4×20).
City water is contaminated with sodium hypochlorite which is made with caustic soda and salt. A shop or mobile detailer need a 4x40 RO can with carbon prefilters and plastic storage tanks and a TDS meter. (To drink lab grade zero pure water everybody need to run this ultra pure water back through an alkaline filter to remineralize the water). Otherwise it is not safe to drink. Hopefully this helps because getting your water right is paramount in all aspects of high production high-end speciality cleaning. Welcome to the zero pure filtered water revolution!
Distilled water is zero pure and can be used to clean glass and battery powered back pack sprayers can be used with zero pure water to rinse off non filtered water. I use 3 gallon pump up sprayers, battery powered back pack sprayers (j racenstein and company) and 25 gallon plastic tank battery powered weed sprayers that run off of jump start batteries and small hand held mini sprayers to spray soap and water. Rain water is about 10 ppm and needs a sedement pre-filter before carbon.
It really depends on your needs. I run "pure" DI system that gives me 1500 US gal for 25l of granulate, and it never gets above 20 PPM. Reality is that anything below 10 PPM is spotless and depending on the water in your area, more often than not, 20 to 30 PPM will be spotless too. Heck some places can go as high as 60 PPM without causing water spots. 0 PPM is cool, but unless you wash glass, it can sometimes do more harm than good. 0 PPM water can be very corrosive on some metals and other finishes and is not really that suitable for washing cars. Great for windows but not cars.
I have a PPM of 380 on average where I live, and the key to a good DI system is to make sure that you control scales on the resin, and that you use a a watersoftener specific bedding, a DFQ bedding, as the last stage before your actual DI virgin mix. Add to that one must control flow rate and use a good DI tank with proper swirl. As with an RO system, controlling flow rate means that you need a "sump tank" to work from, not take the water straight off the DI. A flow of more than 1 gph through a 20l quality bedding with a proper swirl tank is no bueno. And taking the water straight off normal 4.5 x 20 Big Blue tanks at anything more than 0.5 gpm, is a really bad solution. I get it, these systems Todd shows are super easy, and if you like forking out a new 20" insert for every 100 gallon of water, sure go ahead, but also remember that a fully passive DI system set up properly can be perfectly cost effective for the hobby detailers if used correctly. There's no need to lay on high pH prewash or touchless wash soaps with DI water. And rinsing soap off with DI water absolutely sucks. DI works great for the soap bucket, the pH neutral foam cannon and rinsing off the tap water and that's how it is best used. Only using purified water is a waste and makes the job a lot harder in the end as most soaps, especially the pH neutral snow foams not only take forever to rinse off with purified water, but also leaves residues the purified water can't remove. I use less than 7 US gal of purified water for an entire contact car wash, and that includes the 2.75 gallon that goes in my soap bucket. Completely foaming a car takes less than a gallon if you know what you're doing.
So one always have to consider the expense of DI vs. RO. And if one want an RO system that does not rely on a tank, but constant flow for a good high flow pressure washer, then that's going to be a pretty big and expensive RO system. Having a system that will contiuously flow 175+ US gal per hour is a pretty big system that will need three 4040 canisters unless the pressure is 250+ psi. Most won't even have the initial water flow to support that type of RO.
In short, there are many ways to skin a cat. Is this cheap simple version one? Not really. But both a properly done DI and RO can work depending on what is needed and how it's done.
I use one but at the end for a final rinse.
Great video! Explained it so well. WOW
I’ve got about 900+ PPM at my house. I’m on well water of course. I purchased a system from Amazon. About $300 or so. The lowest it’s getting my PPM is down to about 400. So it’s better but not good. Don’t really notice a difference with the car washing process. Still spots and the water marks that drip out after drying. Is there a better resin to purchase for very hard well water? How do I get it down to low low numbers as every system advertises?
Great information. Thanks Todd.
Nice review, Question, I have a 16,000 grain water softener alone with the spotless 20 DI filters can I put the water softener inline before the spotless 20 DI filter? Is there any benefit by doing this? Thanks
Thank you very much!
Great Video - I have the option is piping standard cold water, which is hard or softener water (have a water softener) to the outside tap for washing the car. Should I pipe the softener water?
If you plan to run the CR Spotless all the time (during wash and final rinse), then simply run it off of un-filtered water.
Thank you for the info appreciate it 👍
Brilliant!
What products would you recommend to get rid of hard water spots on matte paint without having to repaint it?
That's going to be a very difficult task as that matte / satin finish can get damaged very easily. If you use a traditional water spot remover, you risk damaging the finish. You might want to look around the detailing world to see if anybody is making a water spot remover that is designed specifically for those types of finishes. If one exists, it's not something that I am aware of.
When you wash at your house do you just keep the DI on all the time or just for the final rinse?
I use it all the time...
@@Esotericdetail I do the same, as my hardness is 340ppm. Thanks so much Todd.
@@handymadnesshow long does your resign last?
@@Madcarcareproducts I only used it as final rinse for maybe a year, then I just left it on full time. All in it only lasted maybe 2.5 years. Not the best. I use a DI pro 100, not the cr spotless thing. The DI pro 100 is way bigger and lasts longer, but changing the resin is annoying, and I just haven't done it. LOL.
I have a spigot coming off of my traditional salt based water softener filtration system in my garage. Would it make sense as well as lengthen the life of the DI system media to connect it to my water softener system?
I have a whole-house water filtration system, but found that the TDS numbers were still very high. So my Simple Chuck runs after the whole house system.
Hey does it need a water pump
Or regular pressure from hose will be enough for solar cleaning?
Solar cleaning?
@@Esotericdetail solar panel cleaning
Idk, I have solutions for avoiding/dealing with water spotting. However, I really need a pressure washer and have no other good/better solution for efficiently cleaning dirty vehicles.
yes!!
So do you use this for the complete wash process including filling the wash buckets or do just use for the rinsing process?
We use it for the entire process.
I use the DIC-20 for the final rinse only. Works well and extends the life of the cartridges.
pro shops for entire process..diy or home based shop..just the rinse. Esoteric is one of the ELITE detail shops in all the world. Cartridges are a cheap/neccesity for them. Esoteric rocks!
@@waxmanvids5015 💪
Thanks for the responses.
If the car is ceramic coated properly, wouldn't that eliminate the ability to get water spots?
No, coatings are still quite susceptible to water spots!
Does heated water change the performance of the 20 gallon filter kit with stand??
You should not run heated water through a DI filtration system. It will degrade the filter material and make it useless.
My ppm is 53 so that's OK as water goes?
ive heard above 20ppm is not "safe" to avoid spotting...
Will this lower the GPM output of my pressure washer
Are these the same thing as a whole house filter system ? Can you drink from these being installed?
No. DI water is not drinking water, and they are not what is used in water softening systems. Those are totally different.
That big CR spotless setup will only filter about 300 gal and then the media needs replaced??!
Correct, or 400 gallons with the Simple Chuck. Those numbers are placeholders though as the longevity is directly related to the condition of the water.
I have 250 PPM from tap. What do you recommend since I have tried other systems but after 3 washes the systems are useless. Also do you prefilter and if so what?
250 isn't too bad. I would probably go with one of the larger systems as it's more convenient with less frequent changing of media. With good DI systems, a pre-filter is not necessary.
If you have 250 PPM, go with a large 17.8 liter swirl tank like the FlowAround Aqua Clean tank. Much more efficient than those Big Blues. If you do your setup right, with proper flow and a small tank to take the water off of, then you should see at least 800 US gal of quality DI water that has a PPM of less than 60 all the time.
I'm guessing that part of your problem is the flow rate. Especially with the little 10" tanks, even flow above 0.75 gpm can greatly diminish the output after a few times.
And with good DI systems, prefiltering to avoid scaling of the resin is a must in a lot of areas.
@@AB-80X can you please post a link as I can’t find the product
Do these also work when you have a regular water softener for the rest of the house? How does that affect the longevity?
I don't know that it has a positive effect on the longevity of it, but I have a water softener / filtration system at my house, plus I use one of these as well.
I have had a conversation with my Culligan guy about this, and it’s actually slightly worse with soft water. The TDS in soft water is the same as it just swaps a salt molecule in place of the calcium in some cases. It can bring down the TDS some, and I have measured that, but apparently it’s harder on the resin to remove any salt from the water than calcium.
Soft water will help some with spotting however on its own. I personally have an Reverse osmosis filter with a tank, and wash from that, then run it through the CR for a rinse. The RO water is under 10ppm which is pretty spot free, then running it through the CR makes it zero, and the resin lasts a really long time as it doesn’t have to reduce the TDS very much. Really hard water ( high tds ) burns through the resin fast.
@@johnwalters878 I heard something similar, so that's why I have been holding off on any such devices. The regular water softener is already a major upgrade in terms of dilution ratios for shampoos and other cleaners, and I can avoid washing in the sun at most times, so water spots are not really an issue for me, but it would be nice to sometimes just rinse the car and be done with it, instead of spending another half hour drying the car.
Yeah at least with soft water you reduce the chance of spotting and the soaps work much better. And if you already have the softener then it’s a decent option. I have a water softener for my house, but running soft water to my shop would have been a pain, and my sprinkler system main is right next to the shop.
If I have a higher GPM pressure washer will these be able to keep up?
Anything less than 2.5 GPM and you're good to go. I just ordered the Active 2.3 so I'm pretty excited to see how that works out. Just released on April 22, 2024.
How long do the filters last? How many gallon’s?
It's going to vary greatly depending on how bad the water is going into it.
Wat about filling your 100 gallon tank and then connect to your power washer
That is actually the textbook way of doing proper DI. By running a reservoir or sump to draw from, you can greatly reduce the flow rate over the resin. This will have a huge effect on the quality of the water. A good system for that kind of work will be a 5 micron sediment filter, 0.5 micron carbon filter, a high flow DFQ resin stage and then a DI with virgin resin. That way you can slowly fill your tank at 0.5 gpm. Then you should also use a good canister for the last DI stage that is a proper swirl tank. The AquaClean FlowAround tanks are great for this. The sediment and carbon filter is there to make sure that your water does not go bad and keep the resins from scaling.
What's your PPM?
my TDS is 600. Will this work
Yes, you'll just go through filtering media more often.
You'll start getting water spots long before the TDS meter shows 300ppm....more like 50ppm.
Yup. And depending on what contaminants your area has, you can get them at as low as with 20 PPM. I know for a fact that Esoteric does great detail work, but some of Todd's commercials are a bit much. This is one of them.
I have a 4400 psi 4gpm pressure washer will this work with it?
You will burn through resin very quickly with that kind of water flow!!
so this is for doing it outside?? cause when it rains and your car gets wet, same thing gonna happen hey, spots. if you drive your car in the rain that is.
Rain doesn’t come out of a super rusty contaminated underground pipe
Those a different types of spots, and they are a lot less harmful.
Calcium spots are the most harmful and they are also the most visible, and raid does not do that.
You use only for raise or wash whole car
Use it during the entire process...pre-rinse, wash, final rinse. You have just as much chance to get spotting during the wash as you do the final rinse.
Yeah not impressed at all from how little the cartridge lasted me from the spotless system. I didn’t keep count but I would say maybe 12 washes and that’s ONLY using it to RINSE
I trust the water filter salesman appearing on my notification "front door"
For spot free water
Can I use this if I have 8gpm power washing unit for commercial use?
No. And where do you live where you have 8 gpm in a house? Most have half that. Todd fails to mention that these simple systems that just use Big Blue cans rarely like more than 0.5 gpm of flow to be properly effective.
@@AB-80X The Spotless system is designed for 2.5 GPM or less. Did you really mean .5 or did you mean 5 because .5 would be totally worthless to clean anything.
2:27
??
That was pretty much the best shot of the whole video. Here’s your entry hotsy, here’s your giant resin filter cart, next to one another. There’syour setup. Should make it part of the the video thumbnail for easy reference 👍 as it turns out my water isn’t very hard (mostly nitrates from local farming) so I’m exploring cheaper / lighter / simpler options, as well as investing in water reclaim beforehand. Distillation as well. Would be nice to get to a somewhat closed loop instead of dumping grey water in the sewer.
Way to expensive for home use and 100 gallons is nothing
yes I would agree that the initial investment is high, but the refill cost is not that bad plus the system is a very high-quality unit and is much easier to change out the cartridges over A big tank where you have to dump out nasty resin..
The water filter cost $429 and you charge more than half the cost of the unit for a replacement filter? Are you guys high?
No, as we are simply selling the replacement media for the prices set by the industry. The media for deionized systems are not inexpensive like salt for a home water softener (completely different processes), but compared to the cost for fixing water spot issues on automotive paint, it's cheap!
Dead fish ha ha what is it?
That's just how fresh DI water smells!
Far too expensive for car washing
It's all relative to what you're into. For those who are big-time car enthusiasts, it's simply part of the cost of ownership and care.
@@Esotericdetail There are many aspects of being a car enthusiast. Being a detailing enthusiast does not make you a car enthusiast.
1st 👍
Went to your website wasted 5 minutes trying to find the right product page, gave up.
Direct links are in the description above…
1st
Is it possible to store/leave the pressure washer or water filter outside ever or will it not do well in weather?
As long as it's not below freezing temps!
@@Esotericdetail 90 degrees outside is okay? Do you store your pressure washer and filter outside at the shop or bring it inside every time ? Thanks 🙏🏻
@@jjjjjjjjjjjhjjjjjhjj At our shop, the water filtration system is mounted indoors. We bring our pressure washer in every day to keep it out of the rain / snow.