Much better solution than going with pallet wood or the faux pallet paneling they now sell at big box stores IMHO. I used similar wood to create a faux rough-sawn "beam" for above my fireplace and I think it came out really well for super cheap. One thing I did with that project and might do for my accent wall (following your guide) is to put a bunch of nuts, bolts and washers in a sock and beat the hell out of the wood to give it some character. Love what you did and I appreciate you posting a detailed video.
I had the same idea with the dog ear fence boards in our basement, or upstairs loft bathroom. might try the cedar. I used it for a accent wall in our camper. smelled great for about a year or 2. Good job!
I love how this turned out. Great tip using the different variations of colour. We're going to be installing a plank wall in our home as well so this video helps a ton!
I think this is the best looking one of these walls I've seen yet! Thanks for the inspiration. I'm going to be doing a project like this soon in my newly finished basement. I think I'll use the same planks you did. Great idea!
Looks great. The only pickets at my local Lowe's and Home Depot are all pressure treated. Do you have a recommendation on where to get these regular pines?
What he had in his hands is cedar fence boards..NOT treated pine...dont use treated pine..cedar is untreated because it naturally repels mold and insects.
I'm curious how the weight of the guitars, added to just Brad nails and liquid nails, stood up over time. Wether or not the boards holding the guitar hangers pulled away from the wall at all.
Love It!! Thanks for sharing.. Out of curiosity why did you use the more expensive premium pine boards? I have a shop that we are opening up and will have close to 800 sq ft of wall that we want to cover and I see that Home Depot has 5/8 x 5 1/2 x 6ft pressure treated dog ear ones for about $1.50 a piece. Also wondering if could get same results using watered down latex paint instead of the stinky stain.
Given what was available at our store at the time, I’m happy with what we used and felt it was a good value. I’m sure there are less expensive options out there if one looked hard enough. Thanks for watching!
Question - I never see anyone cover how to do the power receptacles. Since they are flush with the original wall, adding the wood panels would bring the faceplate out the depth of the board. How do you make the receptacle flush (or at least the faceplate) with the new wood wall?
Best way is to buy an extension...they only cost a buck and a half ...its a metal box without a front or back that fits tightly within the electrical box. All you have to do is shut off the power and remove the outlet from the box and thread it through the back of the extension then push the extension into the outlet box...the tabs on the extension will sit against the new wood wall ....thereby extending the electrical box to the face of the wood wall ....reattach the outlet....turn on the power..done.
Culture of Life Media Thanks for watching! The boards are NOT “green treated” or chemically treated. You are correct, you wouldn’t want to use those inside. These are just rough cut pine boards. You could also purchase cedar boards.
Love how your wall turned out! And you went with fence panels and not pallet wood.. I’m happy to see that. I’m doing a similar wall with fence panels, but mine are salvaged from an actual cedar fence. Years and years of weathering.. but I will be sanding them down to a smooth finish, followed by a watered down paint (stain), and boiled linseed oil (possibly). And I’m happy to hear that your wall went up in about 3 hours.. My wall will take longer, I wasn’t sure how long mine will take( not including the prep work of the boards, sanding, and staining). Keep up the good work! This is the first I’ve seen of your videos. I’ll be watching for more!
I used these to build a backdrop wall and I put penny gaps, now the gaps are nearly and inch...so much shrinkage..not sure how to prevent that (a tiny amount of drying would not have solved it..mine kept shrinking over the years) I am redoing the wall but not sure how to avoid this shrinking this time. I sanded all my boards and it took forever, but I see you skipped the sanding..I might do that this go around and save myself a ton of time lol.
We let our boards sit in the basement for a couple weeks before installing the wall. A lot probably depends on how wet your lumber is. If it’s wet, you’ll want to let it rest / dry out longer before installing.
@@PictureTime Yeah turns out using pressure treated fence boards are not ideal for projects unless they've sat for weeks or months and dried out. But I needed a cheap solution. I'm redoing my wall with the same boards but I had to replace 5 with new boards, I will just put those on bottom with temporary fix so that when they shrink I can adjust them. Should be fine =D
Looks great. Questions... What size nails did you use (gauge and length)? Did you first locate studs and only nail into studs or directly into drywall?
We glued the ends of the boards first and tried to hit studs. The nails at the ends, we put them in at an angle. I think they were two inch nails.. I think they were 18 gauge nails but I can’t remember. They were pretty standard pneumatic trim nails. Hope that helps. Thanks for watching!
We let them acclimate in the house a week or two before hanging. They’ve been up for 3 years now. There are some minor gaps and warping but not bad and it just adds a little character! Thanks for watching.
This is amazing! Trying this out now. Out of curiosity, do you remember the length of your cuts and if you followed a pattern? Thank you so much for posting this!
All we did was trim off the rounded part of the fence boards. We didn’t use a pattern. If we cut a board short to fit, we started the next walk with the shorter section on the opposite side of the wall so we ended up with very little waste. Thanks for watching!
I love your wall the unfortunate part about your video is you did not explain how you actually hung the boards if you just fixated the boards to the studs… I will assume that’s what you did!! It’s quite shocking how Pinterest and even TH-cam does not have the type of videos you just shown which is doing a project like this on a budget because everything I’ve looked at is terribly expensive the peel and stick the shiplap and then there’s the wood pallets that would take A while to run around town or find a place that has a lot of pallets… So I want to tell you how much I appreciate your video showing DIY as well as on a budget and my next video of yours is of course the barn door..I will be making a small version of that barn door for the bathroom!! Thank you!
Lori Rogers thanks for watching and commenting Lori. We didn’t necessarily affix the boards to the studs. I’m sure we hit a few, but we just put a little glue (liquid nails caulk) on the corners of each board and then used a pneumatic nailer to affix them to the Sheetrock. We wanted it to be fairly easy to pry the wall up without causing major damage in the event the styles Chan’s and we wanted to remove it. The boards aren’t that heavy so I don’t believe to need to hit many studs for them to stay put. I hope that helps. Best of luck with your project. Thanks for liking, subscribing and sharing!
Mike Mcdaniel we didn’t. We just used regular pine fencing boards. But did experience some warping as a result. If you use untreated boards, I’d let them sit in your space for a week or two before mounting to let them dry out
That is a great look, well done video. Q: What size of nail(s) did you select, sorry, don't recall the thickness of your boards. Also, I think the liquid nails is a great second option!
Thanks! Our board thickness was about 3/4" If I remember right we used about 1 1/4" nails. We wanted to hold them to the wall well but not make it so permanent that we couldn't remove them and repaint if we decided to do so in the future. Thanks for watching! Working on a Video for our Barn Door Project next! Stay tuned!
This is exactly what I was looking for! Great Job! This will give me a little project that I could do with my son. One question, did you paint the boards red and then stain over top of them in the beginning of the video? To get different shades of red? Thanks again!
Hi! Thanks for watching. Yes on the red boards, we painted them, then sanded them, then stained them a few different shades (using stain from the other boards to tie everything together).
utseay we used a trim/finish nailer. Like what you’d use for floor/window trim. I think it’ll come up pretty easy with a small pry bar and hammer. Minor wall repair will be needed after.
Christine Scott thanks for watching! We had a little but it really helps to have he boards dry out a bit (2 weeks or so) before you hang them. We had a handful of boards that ended up being too warped to use. It also helped to glue the ends. Have fun with your project!
Looks amazing! We are planning on doing ours this weekend. We have a brick fireplace in middle of wall. Question is- would you start on top of fire place or at the ceiling like you did? Also do you always start at center of wall or at side? Thank you in advance
Missy Rubio Rubio We started at the top because if we had to trim the board width on the last board, we wanted that covered up by the base molding instead of having a “skinny” board at the top of the wall. I’d recommend starting from the top. Thanks for watching!
what would really make it look great is urban grey walls or the walls painted one of the colours of the wood to bring it all out. It seems the walls clash with the feature wall, and look washed out next to it.
Why? What we used shrunk a little so that’s why we acclimated it to our basement for a few weeks before installing. It’s been 4 years and the wall still looks awesome.
just buy the boards pretreated.... fence boards that arent pressure treated are impossible to find and by the time you mess around with multiple stains, the extra labor not to mention the extra cost for the stain.... its not worth doing this way.
Oh my gosh, I have some of this in my shop, i wasn't sure what I wanted to do with them, now I know!!!
Much better solution than going with pallet wood or the faux pallet paneling they now sell at big box stores IMHO. I used similar wood to create a faux rough-sawn "beam" for above my fireplace and I think it came out really well for super cheap. One thing I did with that project and might do for my accent wall (following your guide) is to put a bunch of nuts, bolts and washers in a sock and beat the hell out of the wood to give it some character. Love what you did and I appreciate you posting a detailed video.
Very nice! I love the end result with the guitars on the wall.
Great job! Looks awesome thanks for sharing!!
Thanks dude. Reminded me I got a bunch of those boards, 12footers, in my basement.
Don’t let those couple unnecessarily rude comments get to ya.. this wall is beautiful and you captured the process well. Thank you for this video!
Evan Rackle thanks so much!
I'm doing this to my basement wall, looks amazing love the colors
Thats amazing. Its funny how well a rich dark wall like that can accent guitars. Well done.
I think the only improvement would be more guitars! I'm going to tell my wife you suggested that... Ha Thanks for watching!
Picture Time it definitely does. I have a dean resonator for sale that would look great up there 😂
I have a ton of fence boards and I’m planning on doing this
Doing it! Love the approach and technique. Thanks for posting
Awesome! Thanks for watching.
Really nice project. Looks great.
Thanks for watching Neal!
I had the same idea with the dog ear fence boards in our basement, or upstairs loft bathroom. might try the cedar. I used it for a accent wall in our camper. smelled great for about a year or 2. Good job!
I love how this turned out. Great tip using the different variations of colour. We're going to be installing a plank wall in our home as well so this video helps a ton!
Living Redefined thanks for watching! I hope your project goes great!
@@PictureTime Thanks! Here's hoping... lol :)
I think this is the best looking one of these walls I've seen yet! Thanks for the inspiration. I'm going to be doing a project like this soon in my newly finished basement. I think I'll use the same planks you did. Great idea!
Herb N Garden Great!! Thanks for watching!
COOL! GREAT JOB! I'm going to do this using fence boards and try staining with vinegar/steel wool "stain" - gray/black look
Daisy M sounds cool! Post pics and send the link!
That turned out looking awesome! I am inspired!
Wow, you are an amazing man Jeff. I wish I had your talent and on screen presence. Nice work!
Thanks Josh!
Wow nice job bud this freaking rules!!!
Nailed it!!
did you notice an improvement to the room sound with the addition of the wood?
Beautiful!!! 👏👍
That looks awesome bro
Brilliant idea 👍
Very good idea.
Thank you
Doing this in my garage bar
Looks great. The only pickets at my local Lowe's and Home Depot are all pressure treated. Do you have a recommendation on where to get these regular pines?
You're probably not going to find fence boards that aren't pressure treated. Just make sure you sand them outside with a mask on.
What he had in his hands is cedar fence boards..NOT treated pine...dont use treated pine..cedar is untreated because it naturally repels mold and insects.
Can you advise me on what nail gun you used?
It was just a pneumatic brad nailer. Maybe 1.5” nails.
looks great
You hit the corners with black paint???? Just the 4 corners or every edge piece?
Anywhere there might be a gap where you can see the edge of the wood. Test fit each board before nailing. Hope that helps. Thanks for watching!
@@PictureTime 👍
How do you put the wall outlet plates back on, do you have to adjust them at all
You can just use longer screws for either the plate or the outlet itself.
I'm curious how the weight of the guitars, added to just Brad nails and liquid nails, stood up over time. Wether or not the boards holding the guitar hangers pulled away from the wall at all.
So far we haven’t had any issues. But I hung the guitar hangers with longer screws. You could go into a stud to be safe.
Looks awesome! What size nails did you use? And what was the surface you nailed them to? Did you make sure to anchor them to any studs?
I can’t remember the exact size but they were fairly small. We just went into the Sheetrock so the wall would be removable.
@@PictureTime Awesome thank you. I am planning to do this on the wall behind my bar, and I want to add some shelves to it to hold bottles.
Love It!! Thanks for sharing.. Out of curiosity why did you use the more expensive premium pine boards? I have a shop that we are opening up and will have close to 800 sq ft of wall that we want to cover and I see that Home Depot has 5/8 x 5 1/2 x 6ft pressure treated dog ear ones for about $1.50 a piece. Also wondering if could get same results using watered down latex paint instead of the stinky stain.
Given what was available at our store at the time, I’m happy with what we used and felt it was a good value. I’m sure there are less expensive options out there if one looked hard enough. Thanks for watching!
I thought treated pine was toxic? Is this different? Thanks
I bought the same boards but ended up returning them. They were so wet and smelly I couldn’t stand it, the price, however, was phenomenal
What did you do with the electrical outlets?
We just used a little longer screws on the outlets and then covered them up with the plates.
@@PictureTime Nice! Great work!
Question - I never see anyone cover how to do the power receptacles. Since they are flush with the original wall, adding the wood panels would bring the faceplate out the depth of the board. How do you make the receptacle flush (or at least the faceplate) with the new wood wall?
Steve IRL we cut the wood to shape and then used longer screws on the power receptacle so we could mount the plate flush. Hope that helps
Best way is to buy an extension...they only cost a buck and a half ...its a metal box without a front or back that fits tightly within the electrical box.
All you have to do is shut off the power and remove the outlet from the box and thread it through the back of the extension then push the extension into the outlet box...the tabs on the extension will sit against the new wood wall ....thereby extending the electrical box to the face of the wood wall ....reattach the outlet....turn on the power..done.
Aren't those boards pressure treated? Is that safe to use indoors?
Culture of Life Media Thanks for watching! The boards are NOT “green treated” or chemically treated. You are correct, you wouldn’t want to use those inside. These are just rough cut pine boards. You could also purchase cedar boards.
Love this but where did you find that red barn paint
It was “ooops” paint at Menards. I show a picture of the can in the video. Look for red deck stain at your home improvement store.
Love how your wall turned out!
And you went with fence panels and not pallet wood.. I’m happy to see that.
I’m doing a similar wall with fence panels, but mine are salvaged from an actual cedar fence. Years and years of weathering.. but I will be sanding them down to a smooth finish, followed by a watered down paint (stain), and boiled linseed oil (possibly).
And I’m happy to hear that your wall went up in about 3 hours.. My wall will take longer, I wasn’t sure how long mine will take( not including the prep work of the boards, sanding, and staining).
Keep up the good work! This is the first I’ve seen of your videos. I’ll be watching for more!
I used these to build a backdrop wall and I put penny gaps, now the gaps are nearly and inch...so much shrinkage..not sure how to prevent that (a tiny amount of drying would not have solved it..mine kept shrinking over the years)
I am redoing the wall but not sure how to avoid this shrinking this time.
I sanded all my boards and it took forever, but I see you skipped the sanding..I might do that this go around and save myself a ton of time lol.
We let our boards sit in the basement for a couple weeks before installing the wall. A lot probably depends on how wet your lumber is. If it’s wet, you’ll want to let it rest / dry out longer before installing.
@@PictureTime Yeah turns out using pressure treated fence boards are not ideal for projects unless they've sat for weeks or months and dried out. But I needed a cheap solution.
I'm redoing my wall with the same boards but I had to replace 5 with new boards, I will just put those on bottom with temporary fix so that when they shrink I can adjust them. Should be fine =D
Looks great. Questions... What size nails did you use (gauge and length)? Did you first locate studs and only nail into studs or directly into drywall?
We glued the ends of the boards first and tried to hit studs. The nails at the ends, we put them in at an angle. I think they were two inch nails.. I think they were 18 gauge nails but I can’t remember. They were pretty standard pneumatic trim nails. Hope that helps. Thanks for watching!
How much moisture is in these boards? They will severely warp over time.
We let them acclimate in the house a week or two before hanging. They’ve been up for 3 years now. There are some minor gaps and warping but not bad and it just adds a little character! Thanks for watching.
This is amazing! Trying this out now. Out of curiosity, do you remember the length of your cuts and if you followed a pattern? Thank you so much for posting this!
All we did was trim off the rounded part of the fence boards. We didn’t use a pattern. If we cut a board short to fit, we started the next walk with the shorter section on the opposite side of the wall so we ended up with very little waste. Thanks for watching!
I love your wall the unfortunate part about your video is you did not explain how you actually hung the boards if you just fixated the boards to the studs… I will assume that’s what you did!! It’s quite shocking how Pinterest and even TH-cam does not have the type of videos you just shown which is doing a project like this on a budget because everything I’ve looked at is terribly expensive the peel and stick the shiplap and then there’s the wood pallets that would take A while to run around town or find a place that has a lot of pallets… So I want to tell you how much I appreciate your video showing DIY as well as on a budget and my next video of yours is of course the barn door..I will be making a small version of that barn door for the bathroom!! Thank you!
Lori Rogers thanks for watching and commenting Lori. We didn’t necessarily affix the boards to the studs. I’m sure we hit a few, but we just put a little glue (liquid nails caulk) on the corners of each board and then used a pneumatic nailer to affix them to the Sheetrock. We wanted it to be fairly easy to pry the wall up without causing major damage in the event the styles Chan’s and we wanted to remove it. The boards aren’t that heavy so I don’t believe to need to hit many studs for them to stay put. I hope that helps. Best of luck with your project. Thanks for liking, subscribing and sharing!
Did you use outdoor treated boards? I've been told you should not use treated boards in doors.
Mike Mcdaniel we didn’t. We just used regular pine fencing boards. But did experience some warping as a result. If you use untreated boards, I’d let them sit in your space for a week or two before mounting to let them dry out
Thank you@@PictureTime
should the wall be drywalled before or can you just start with bare studs? For a basement project.
You can put it over bare studs but we dry-walled first so if we decided to go back to drywall we wouldn’t have a big mess on our hands.
That is a great look, well done video. Q: What size of nail(s) did you select, sorry, don't recall the thickness of your boards. Also, I think the liquid nails is a great second option!
Thanks! Our board thickness was about 3/4" If I remember right we used about 1 1/4" nails. We wanted to hold them to the wall well but not make it so permanent that we couldn't remove them and repaint if we decided to do so in the future. Thanks for watching! Working on a Video for our Barn Door Project next! Stay tuned!
@@PictureTime Most appreciated. Best of luck with future builds.
This is exactly what I was looking for! Great Job! This will give me a little project that I could do with my son. One question, did you paint the boards red and then stain over top of them in the beginning of the video? To get different shades of red? Thanks again!
Hi! Thanks for watching. Yes on the red boards, we painted them, then sanded them, then stained them a few different shades (using stain from the other boards to tie everything together).
Ryan Reynolds older brother is a good carpenter...:-)...
do you need to put gloss on top of it? jw not sure what the gloss purpose is for
No - We left the boards with ONLY stain on them. You could gloss it if you'd like but we chose not to
What type of nailer did you use, framing nailer? How easy will that be to remove?
utseay we used a trim/finish nailer. Like what you’d use for floor/window trim. I think it’ll come up pretty easy with a small pry bar and hammer. Minor wall repair will be needed after.
Wall looks great - thanks for sharing. Did you have a problem with the boards cupping?
Christine Scott thanks for watching! We had a little but it really helps to have he boards dry out a bit (2 weeks or so) before you hang them. We had a handful of boards that ended up being too warped to use. It also helped to glue the ends. Have fun with your project!
What is the wall color u used
Thank u ur video was helpful really....
the music is irritating but good video
How many hours do you think you spent staining/painting?
Donie Williams My 13-year-old daughter and I spent about 3 hours on that project together. Thanks for watching!
thought u couldn't use treated wood on the inside?
The wood we used wasn’t treated. You could use Cedar as well.
What if my wall is concrete?
It’s still doable
Looks amazing! We are planning on doing ours this weekend. We have a brick fireplace in middle of wall. Question is- would you start on top of fire place or at the ceiling like you did? Also do you always start at center of wall or at side? Thank you in advance
Missy Rubio Rubio We started at the top because if we had to trim the board width on the last board, we wanted that covered up by the base molding instead of having a “skinny” board at the top of the wall. I’d recommend starting from the top. Thanks for watching!
what were the stains and colors you used?
Luke P see the video for the exact colors. I did a clip of each can
What's this we did it shit!?The old man did all the work!
It was we...haha. Hard to film and hang a wall at the same time. Thanks for watching.
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Save $200 on prefabricated boards...spent 3 days staining
Better than watching Netflix 👀
U probably dont have wanna have treated wood indoors. Otherwise, great wall.
whats the reason ?
@@maxma780 chemicals used in the pressure testing process, particularly formaldehyde
Pallet jack walls ????
It’s very common to use pallet jack wood on walls like this.
@@PictureTime I think you mean pallet wood. A pallet jack is what you use to move pallets around. Great job on the wall!
@@ryanvandermolen4687 You are correct - Pallet wood!!! Haha. Sorry for any confusion this may have caused ;-)
what would really make it look great is urban grey walls or the walls painted one of the colours of the wood to bring it all out. It seems the walls clash with the feature wall, and look washed out next to it.
That’s what YOU think would look really good at least
Isn’t pressure treated wood a bad idea??!!
Why? What we used shrunk a little so that’s why we acclimated it to our basement for a few weeks before installing. It’s been 4 years and the wall still looks awesome.
just buy the boards pretreated.... fence boards that arent pressure treated are impossible to find and by the time you mess around with multiple stains, the extra labor not to mention the extra cost for the stain.... its not worth doing this way.
Plenty in stock at Home Depot last week for under $3/board. Many different boards could work.
Can someone say "RUBBER GLOVES??? Other then that --- LOOKS GREAT!
Rubber gloves? Ok I said it. What now?
Man up dude.
He's not getting a prostate checkup