Ron Hazelton Installs a WoodHaven Wood Look Ceiling in a Kitchen
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 16 ส.ค. 2024
- bit.ly/2AqPzh5 Learn how to get a wood ceiling look in your kitchen by watching Ron Hazelton install Armstrong’s WoodHaven ceiling planks in this charming New England home.
- บันเทิง
![น้าครับ..ผมรักน้า EP.04 - ปีกแดงเดอะซีรีส์2024[ฟินมาก] บทซีรีส์สร้างขึ้นเพื่อความบันเทิงเท่านั้น](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/m9Q6MwoWgaQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Grew up watching Ron Hazelton. Sad to see he passed in April. Definitely something we'll be checking out for our house.
This guy is the best teacher😃 so easy to listen too and his work looks wonderful 😍
This was so informative! Really want to do this now to cover popcorn ceiling. Thank you!
Excellent video and sound. Well done production. Precise and clear. 5 stars for you. *****
The material in the video is a lot nicer than what you actually get. It is a lot flimsier and they give you a lot of damaged ones.
Thanks great job.
I'm thinking of doing this myself. My little house from 1921 has cracked ceilings in every room.
Thanks SO much for this! I have a mobile I'm trying to modernize and these ceiling tracks are perfect for covering the ugly panels up there. I actually had to rip out the whole living room ceiling from water damage roof neglect and the ceiling joists aren't strong enough for drywall and I didn't want to do a drop ceiling. This is perfect!
Did you do this ceiling? How did it end up?
You made it look easy!
Great job with this informative video! Thanks!
1st happy Karen I’ve seen in awhile.
If you screw in the first and last board then why do you need a expansion gap? It’s not like the ceiling boards are going to expand and the house isn’t when the temp changes.
Good point. Wondered that myself.
Nice video
The Armstrong site says to place the rails 12” apart. This video shows 18” between rails.
I wanna redo my kitchen just like this
You don't have to leave room on the starter plank because you just fixed its position by screwing it in.
I would have liked to see how you adjusted the light fixtures, since the ceiling is now lower that the electrical box. ???
Did you figure that out yet? Any tips?
If you're referring to the can lights, most have an adjustable socket plate that can move up and down by loosening the wing nut and adjusting it to the proper location and tightening. If yours doesn't have that, then you can buy a socket extender to lower the bulb to your desired height.
Great informative video! I plan on ordering this same type of ceiling quite soon. Looking through the literature it states that this will drop your ceiling by 7/8" of an inch. In my room I do not have recessed lighting, but rather a ceiling fan and on hanging light fixture. Do you think I will have to lower the junction boxes 7/8" to accommodate this ceiling? Or just get longer mounting screws? Perhaps this is just a case by case scenario. I think I will just have to pull the fan and light down and see what I'm dealing with.
Just special ordered this, they box it in pairs and one of the boxes inside the big box was damaged with the panels inside. Some quality control in the WH is needed, you shouldn't ship damaged product from the factory.
Hi, I saw the video to be very helpful and I will start on this project soon for my new home. i was wondering what is the length of the screws you are using? or what kind of screws would you recommend that are not too long or too short? Thank you!
Do not understand starting and ending row gaps [especially 1/2 inch] if first and last rows are screwed up rails? Can't still expand...at least not much.
So when leveling the track I noticed you only had the level perpendicular to the track, checking that one run of track is level to the next. But you didn't check the level parallel to one run of track. Is this not critical because a tongue and groove system can slightly flex to a small degree to make up for variations only in that direction? My track system is up, going to level it this weekend. Wish me luck!
When I read the instructions online, they said to glue the end joints but it didn't look like you had done that. Is it necessary?
What is the average cost of installation by square footage. Is it expensive? It's not like putting in a laminate floor.
29 sq ft per carton at 120.00 per carton home depot special order .
Thanks for the vid thanks.
Do the metal tracks have enough strength to reinforce some slightly sagging sheet rock?
It seems odd they tell you to leave an expansion gap and then screw the final plank in place- wouldn’t this prohibit expansion? It seems like the general idea of a floating floor only on a ceiling- with a floating floor you can’t fasten the outer edges down.
I thought the same about screwing in the ends while leaving an expansion gap . I think there is enough play in the tongue and groove to make up for any expansion in that direction . I installed the same product over my existing ceiling tile by screwing the supplied mounting clips through the tile into the existing furring strips . I decided to do this because the existing tile were insulated and it also cut down on the demo time and mess . Also. I used a chop saw to cut planks which is much easier and faster . I will post video of job .
Do install over the popcorn ceiling without taking pop
It’s why I’m here seekin options for this reason lol
Make sure the room is well ventilated. The product off gasses, badly.
Why do the cross section snap lines? They were never mentioned on how to use them for reference?
The tracks must be screwed in the joists
@@MrJaminx2 Elephants are heavy.
One line is to find joist and the other is for spacing (18")
@@1193bobmcc
I got 30ft cathedral ceilings…😒
Why would you cut the first piece if you're just going to cover it up. Seems like a waste or time and material
Some people like symmetry in their ceiling. To create that, you have to cut your boards on opposing ends of the ceiling so that when your boards are installed, the joints would be the same distance away from the crown molding.
Why is some of it butted up and some of it overlapped? And how do you mount these on joists? Because the installation instructions are complete trash
If you don't want to cut, then you overlap. Some people are OCD, like me, and like everything in line. Saves time to overlap...
@@bradeley6409 if you're using these across joists should you cut them so they end at a joist or can the 2 pieces overhang and meet in between? They seem kinda flimsy but I know when you put them all together it stiffens up
@@danmcdonald726 They have to overlap so that you have solid fastening all the way across. You can't have two meet in the middle where they are dangling.
@@bradeley6409 thanks, the manufacturer sucks ass at replying to emails and their customer support phone line only has people who can read the instructions that come in the box that are basically screw it up 12in apart. No min screw length, nothing about joists despite saying it could be used on joists, I'm really regretting buying this product from this manufacturer at this point.
@@danmcdonald726 I've never used it but it looks nice. I may use it in the near future. As far as attaching, I would use at least 1" long pan-headed wood screws and definitely attach to your joists/trusses. Floor joists are commonly 16" on center and trusses are typically 24" on center. You'll have to confirm that for layout. Locate a truss in the room and at both ends of it, mark the center of it. Sometimes pounding a nail on each side of a truss is a quick way to find the center. Do that at both ends of the room. Now mark your centers in both directions and snap lines so you know where to screw. Screw at every truss/joist. That should hold nicely. Git 'R' Dun and tell me how it went. I'll be looking for your comment.
Is the product real wood or MDF?