I had to open the comments to realize this was a 6 year old video. LPL has such a cinsistent style and nailed his formula, narrating and all that years ago, I thought it was a newer upload I missed.
Same even I can't have a handgun in my country, I never wanted to buy any gun and probably I won't be able to buy one because of my small mental health problems
@@Thecarboardking I recently buyed smoke detectors that should work for 10 years and I got really angry while checking on them and waiting for any of those to beep again while the video was paused.
@@Thecarboardking helping? this is more like an act of terrorism. i dont even wanna know how many completely fine smoke detectors were harmed in the watching of this video
You have earned a lot of respect. You not only found flaws in gunlocks, you have found a solution for the problem. Great job and thanks for a great video.
And he took a minor loss on it too. No ads means less TH-cam money. He genuinely wanted to provide a solution to a problem. And he's right. Any children he has or may have are the only tweens getting in this thing. 💯
@@jesseredfield8194 don't worry. The comments section is a place time doesn't flow. In my time vsause just released a video on this a few days ago. Comments boost user engagement. The internet is your playground. Have fun.
As a teenager one of my friends showed me his mom’s gun. Freaked me out. He had slipped out the hinge bar from the back of her cheap gun lock box and opened it backwards. Unconscionable how easy they are to get into. Thanks for exposing this industry and really cool solution here.
Firearm safety begins with responsible exposure, NOT COMPLETE SEPERATION. Gun locks are treated like jokes by responsible firearm owners for a reason. One of the first things my father tought me and my brother is about firearms, how they were always dangerous for us because they can always be loaded and we can always end up accidentally loading them, and to not play with them, but also exposed to them to normalise them to neither fear them, or harbor an exceptional curiosity in them. The concept of keeping your guns in your home unlocked with your kids is fucking retarded. My parents didn't lock up their car keys for their other car when they were out and me and my brother were left home alone, that notion would be fucking insane, it's no different for guns as they are no more dangerous tools, arguably much less dangerous given their lack of motiom and action once you set them down even if your kid does touch then and have a negligent discharge or a mechanical accident occurs.
@@JohnSmith-fq3rgWhilst it might seem insane the number of accidents in the US down to gun misuse shows that your parenting experience isn't representative. Gun locks have a place and that place is where the government can't step in and mandate how you parent your children. It can put laws on how you're supposed to store dangerous weapons though. Just like bottles of bleach having childproof tops - ideally children either know the risks or don't have access to bleach. Guns are like that, except some older kids think they're cool things to show off about (not many think it's cool to wave around a bottle of bleach).
Would make for a nice gimmick video: lockable non-valuables. Think cookie jar, diary or toilet door. I'd definitely watch that, and with your skills, I'm certain I would be entertained.
@@ayguy9855 The main problem with THIS gun lock is that it seems "Gun (model) Specific". Generally, gunlocks need to fit a variety of weapons. Unfortunately, this is one of their weaknesses, though/
I bet it could be made general enough if the bolt of a certain length was sold separately from the lock body, so you buy the right length (or bolt) for your weapon. I don't think even a half inch of play would make much difference especially if it was all factory hardened. This technique doesn't really work for crappy cheap locks though so I'm sure most manufacturers do their best to use cheap parts.
That lock would be easy to break open tho. The ground the drill bit very thin to make it lock. I use drill bits that size and much larger at work and see them break all the time. Taking that much material off of it makes it very weak at that point.
I know you said you didn't need comments on easier substitutions, but your project brought to mind two things most every house has at least one of each that could be used with no modifications at all: An adjustable wrench and an ordinary padlock. Find the appropriate size adjustable wrench to fit down through the ejection port and out the bottom of the mag well (rubber coated handle would be a bonus). Lock an ordinary short-shackle padlock through the hanger hole in the wrench handle and you've created an instant gun lock that's tougher than a typical cable lock. In addition, you would still have the lock shackle available to attach a chain so the gun couldn't be removed to a workshop for cutting. I'm sure someone has done this before, but I don't ever remember seeing it and it sprang to mind while watching your excellent video.
That is a very astute observation jay, and your suggestion is both poor man friendly and you still get to keep two fully functioning tools however I feel LPL’s approach is better for three reasons, his lock is engineered for speed and less gun damaging slop as well as having a dedicated tool for the job.
I think that by now he has realized that he had the wrong sequence. 1. Bend 2. Cut the bent part 3. cut the bottom so that it fits into the lock 4. make one groove for the ball bearing, not a circle one.
@@EujenSanduHe almost lost some length when testing the notch depth . If he had ended up cutting it off, premature bending would make it too short . Also, to get locked by a big round ball, the notch must be semicircular .
My 15 year old son just came into the livingroom and said " You watch The LPL?" Yes, yes I do. He then proceeds to tell his friends that he has the coolest Mom ever! Thank you LPL for being someone that makes me a cool mom ;-)
Just goes to show the consistency this man provides. Didn't even realise this video was 6 years old. Also don't own a gun, I don't plan on owning a gun, probably shouldn't own a gun, but still watched it anyways.
@@death22_fighter27I can't speak for them, but I shouldn't have a gun, which is why I don't. I'm a dumbfick idiot drunk. Now imagine that + gun? Yeah, not the best results right? I'll take point on the zombie apocalypse. I can farm, I'm in MENSA... I've got other skills. I'll leave the shooting to you.
I was the same. I'm 41 and didn't but my first gun until late February 2020. I had a feeling things might become chaotic or "mostly peaceful" as the MSM would say.
If you go to the electrical department of a Home Depot they have small cans of liquid rubber for electrical connections. They have screw on caps with a brush attached just like CPCV pipe glue. Reusable for many years.
It's called liquid electrical tape and it's garbage. Good luck not making your tool look like a shit that would concern your primary doctor. It's even crap for what it's supposed to be used for, regular shrink tubing is better in every way. Just put a layer of clingwrap over the plastidip can before you put the lid back on and it'll last long enough to pass the full can down to your grandchildren because you will probably never use it again anyways. Add another layer of clingwrap on top of that with a rubber band and you could probably pass it on to the the species that rises from our ashes after humanity's downfall. Or get the spray if you want your tools to actually look decent. Slightly more prep and skill required though.
Little tip for pushing heat shrink around that bend. Use a solvent like isopropyl alcohol as a lubricant instead of a petroleum base. The petroleum lube will always be there. Alcohol will eventually evaporate. That's an old motorcycle handlebar grip technique.
@andyp5899 this was my question as well, what was the advantage of the heat shrink vs plati-dip (which I've never heard of to be honest, never heard of marine grade heat shrink either though). Maybe the only flaw in this video was not explaining this.
@technerd9655 I think the heat shrink will be more durable. That would be more important on the part that rubs the sharper corners of the gun more than the lock body. The lock body seems to only touch a plastic piece at the bottom of the mag well.
@@MadcattlxUnfortunately the only part of the drill bit that is likely to damage the inside of the gun (the end) is not covered in plasti dip or heat shrink. Not much you can do about that though.
just a tip for bending rods like that. bend away from the flame. the steel on that side the bend needs to stretch more and should be hotter and in more direct contact with the flame
Very cool. Never heard of Plasti-Dip, I want to buy a can and dip everything I own in it for a nice form-fitting ergonomic extra-grip surface. My toothbrush, my bicycle handles, my PS4 controller, my phone, my shoelaces, a banana..
LPL, this is an awesome little project and I love the spirit of it, making it as widely available as possible. The machinist in me can't help but offer slight change for future iterations though. Drill shanks tend to be at least partially annealed already and the area closer to the flutes may have a higher hardness but, this would actually leave the lock weaker to a brute force attack if you swung down with a hammer onto the padlock (I should mention now that I am halfway through the video so, apologies if this is tested later). I think a simple solution is to instead use a length of stainless steel rod (should be available at most hardware stores) preferably in 316 or a similarly gummy alloy. These alloys have much better tensile properties than the drill rod will and even with that drastic notch, should hold up to physical attacks. This also provides added difficulty to cutting and grinding attacks as stainless is notorious for its poor machinability. To that end, keeping with the dremel lathe set up, one could likely make the notch a bit more quickly by using the cut off wheel and spinning it opposite the direction of the work. Then simply cant the cutoff wheel at an angle to the work until the desired radius is achieved in the rod. Do not notch the rod and then try to angle the cut off disc though as that would likely break it. Anywho, thanks for this thought experiment!
when you're cutting something off, the sparks won't hurt you (obv using eye pro). The tool biting and throwing itself in the opposite direction of the sparks will. Thus it's usually safer to have the sparks towards you so that in case of a problem the tool would just fly away from you. Also, humans have better control pulling than pushing, that's why you have more precision over the cut when you're pulling the tool towards you while it's trying to escape than if you're pushing it trying to stop it from getting closer.
@@vanoscrap6296 so stand perpendicular and not get sparks thrown at you or the tool nipping you! Hell a cut off wheel can just as easily bite and go 180° around a small diameter round object. I guess I always attack it with the back bottom side I guess. (So if holding the die grinder straight out would be the position of the blade between 6 AND 9 o' clock)
Just an observation, if you hold your torch a little further away from the work it will heat up quicker. The hottest part of the flame is where the bright blue area creates a point.
@@user-ul6bm8pt2y To be fair i know that but my monkey brain still goes "closer flame more hot" every time i have to heat something, since usually hot things get less hot with distance
Very slick design. Just a couple quick points. After grinding the drill bit to make a grove, wipe off any fillings before testing in the lock. Before appling the rubber coating to the lock, use rubbing alcohol to remove grease and finger prints so the plastic doesn't lift in time
I definitely got rid of the dust/filings before moving the gun within 10 yards of the bench. That can destroy a precision fitted gun like this. Good point on degreasing.
elesjuan Someone needs to CNC a Glock slide onto a 1911 Body and watch as millions of fanboys cry out and be suddenly silenced by the death star equivalent of a fire arm
An empty paint can, the small ones, can be used to store the plasti-dip after opening it and will keep it fresh. It's what we did at a plant that I worked at where we used it as a bolt tightened indicator and tool handle maker.
@@TimSheehan You need a seal that will stop really light petroleum distillates from evaporating. Paint cans usually pull this off with their spring steel seal as it is very tight and what little sealant it there is not permeable to the stuff that is going to evaporate off from the product. You do want to use a paint can rated at holding enamel and shellac paints as they use the kind of solvents that are similar to the stuff you are trying to not have evaporate, so the seals on the cans will work.
The chirping smoke detector in this video had me looking in my house to see which one was low battery. Only today on picking up the last part of the video I previously didn't finish, I hear the noise again and realised. Making me check all my detectors isn't a bad thing at least!
The most I've learned from the gun lock series is that a good gun lock has to A. Prevent the gun from firing (Ie, prevent the gun from going into battery, doesn't work for all firearms but a lot of modern ones can't be used if the bolt isn't fully closed) and B. Not be unlocked with a piece of metal that you can violently shake inside the core of the lock until it pops open.
"extraordinarily difficult to pick" a few years later: "I'm going to use the pick Bosnian Bill and I made... and as you saw that wasn't too difficult a pick"
Several just keep watching and you will stumble on one of them. Of course this lock still works for purpose since a curious teen likely does not have access to that special pick until they also are mature enough to be taught proper firearm handling.
"stopping an unskilled adolescent from accessing the lock" Most unskilled adolescents don't have highly specialized lockpicking equipment. No gun lock is going to stop a criminal from using the unsecured firearm you left lying around, but one like this mostly will keep your kids from shooting themselves or others with it (which is #2 cause of death among children even if you remove gun homicides from the mix).
You think you were going crazy. I _do_ have a smoke alarm that needs a new battery but it only beeps in cold weather. I couldn't figure what was causing it to act up.
It feels so strange to have LPL helping us build a lock, but I’m loving that he cares enough about gun safety and people safety that he’s willing to teach us how to solve this problem.
As we have 2 kids, and 6 times that amount in guns, I appreciate you taking the time to make this video. Fun project to do with my oldest and teach her along the way about safety.
I enjoy shooting sports and I enjoy watching TH-cam regarding them.. I'm happy to see (finally) a video about safe keeping of your firearm. Even if you had to build it yourself. No one regularly reviews safety equipment, sometimes I see a review of a safe but that's all.
@@HyennaTheOneThis is pretty similar to a chamber flag or cable-type handgun lock for installation, which are pretty common and even supplied by manufacturers. It shouldn't damage anything.
Hey LPL, not sure if this was updated or that you will see this but just some tips for you and anyone who might want to make this: When marking the notch for the shank, just put it next to the one you cut off and mark the center of the existing notch on the drillbit. Perfect every time. Honestly ditch the dremel idea, a small angle grinder can be had cheaper than a typical dremel, in my exp. more people have grinders too. Get a grind wheel and a cut off wheel. You could also grind away one side, less material to take away. just make sure the bend direction corresponds. With the heatshrink just use a cigarette/BBQ lighter - good temperature for heatshrink and low risk of burning. if you do have a heatgun on hand theyre ideal. For a simple upgrade you could also look at foam lagging on top of the shrink, inexpensive and if you can find a suitable size it would give a better fit and more protection for your peice. Other than that this is a very simple but effective design.
I've been looking for a good lock and some other parts to make something similar, when I stumbled across the ABUS 83/45 series. They have interchangeable shackles, which include a 6" version. I was going to attempt to do what you did here, but I found the 6" shackle fits perfectly with some room to spare in my full size Glock 22. It has the advantage of being a fully hardened/alloyed shackle with both sides present and locked in bearings. The lock is also available with either an ABUS core or SFIC style. If you are worried about pick attacks you could use a 7 pin peaks or cormax SFIC core for a pretty secure lock. As a bonus, I can use the SFIC core to make it match all my other locks. Since I use this to travel through the airport I can use the same key to lock the gun and the case as required by TSA. I love building my own stuff, but this was much easier than making my own and probably more secure. Definitely more secure than the standard cheap cable type gun locks. I do plan on giving it a plasti-dip to protect the gun unless I can manage to get some heat shrink tubing over the shackle.
You can stretch heat shrink while heating it (I usually use needle nose pliers for short pieces) also making it easier to slide over it then heat it as normal to shrink it.
I appreciate LPL providing the education regarding tools, plastidip, heat shrink, etc... and a basic blueprint for a firearm lock. I also appreciate croud-sourcing the incremental improvements to that blueprint. Thanks for the vid that stands the test of time... 5 years and counting.
Years ago I was doing some prototyping and opened four new different color cans of PlastiDip thinking I could use a tiny amount and they'd keep fine on the shelf...lesson learned...
if the sparks are going in your direction that means that if the rotatory tool jumps out of your control it will roll away and not directly in your fingers holding those pliers (just like the angle grinder or a chainsaw throws the sparks-sawdust in your direction)
Thank you for taking time and tremendous effort to guide us through the steps of making such an original and effective gun lock. I think many viewers don't realize exactly what goes into making a production of such length and detail. P.S. I invested in a heat gun around a decade ago and it's been a godsend. I highly recommend it.
Thanks... and you are correct that this was a bit of a PITA, but not as bad as I thought. Also, I have a heat gun. Trying to keep the number of tools to a minimum, thus using the torch for two purposes.
LockPickingLawyer Oh! I heard you mention keeping tools to a minimum, but didn't realize you dual-purposed the torch. I was threading chambers of a core while your video played. So I wasn't quite as attentive as usual.
This is amazing... all that lock knowledge and experience put to practical application. Massive change of pace, and a welcome one. Mr. Lawyer is a great narrator too. Clear and easy to understand what he's doing. Not always clear WHY, until the end. Would not be opposed to seeing more of such projects.
Must be difficult to be Mrs. LPL. LPL: "Honey, our house is secured by a lock that even I can't pick!" Mrs LPL: "What if I lose the key?" LPL: "That's why the torch, angle grinder and crowbars are conveniently next to the door"
Thanks for the full length video. It’s well made. I enjoyed how it leverages your deep knowledge of secure padlocks, and combines it with your appreciation of keeping firearms safe. This is one of my favorites.
I have been watching your channel for a few years and must say that you have made the world a better place than if you had not been in it. Your past recommendations (and warnings) have certainly saved a non-zero amount of families from attacks and now with this video you have certainly saved families from a non-zero amount of firearm tragedies. There is no reasonable way to estimate some statistics but even if it was just one less dead kid in the world, it's worth it. Even planting the idea of home safety in peoples minds matters. I expect to have children within the next few years and I feel confident in your safety recommendations for my future firearm and home. Thank you. Seriously.
Yes, only now. Not 6 years ago when the video was released. 😂 I didn't notice either. Another comment pointed it out. The algorithm gods just decided that now is the true time for this vid, and turned out to be right.
Well if anyone were to produce this then a improvement might bee to have a small lock that fits it inside the magwell to protect the lock body from a lot of destructive entry's as well.
Agreed... but at the expensive of losing some universal fitment. A better approach may be a wedge shape that fits into the mag well and a ratcheting shackle.
Great videos. You’ve combined my childhood hobby (locks) and adult hobby (guns) on this one. Bonus points for knowing all about the properties of the steel and not wanting to mess up the heat treat.
This video got recommended to me so much I didn't realize it was an old video until I paid attention to the number. Just goes to show that your style has been consistent (and consistently good) for going on 7 years now.
Don't know how i missed this video for 6 years. Still a very valuable project! My only suggestions for improvement are: 1) Use the shakle to mark off the groove on the drill bit. To make it easier to tell when you are getting close 2) Use the cutoff wheel to cut the depth of the groove then come back with the grinding stone to shape. 3) Hold torch back when heating so the tip of the blue flame is almost touching. 4) Directly after the bend is complete, reheat to red hot and drop in oil to quench. Any oil will do, I typically use used motor oil. 5) Clean both the lockbody and drill bit with acetone or 90%+ isopropyl alcohol prior to coating. I've had issues with plasti dip debonding if surface is not very clean. I would also place a few drops of the plasti dip down the end of the heat shrink which will completly seal the end.
Great job! When you pulled out the dremel to grind the groove I knew we were in for a long video! Looks like a very effective lock. Gun manufacturers take note, something as dangerous as a gun needs a good quality lock.
It's actually safer to cut sparking towards you (with safety glasses, which you should have on regardless). You can stand to one side so the majoritt of sparks pass you. The tool is going to be pulling in the opposite direction to the sparks. Firstly, it tends to be easier to maintain control of a tool that's pulling away from you, but more importantly, if you do lose control, you want the tool to jerk away from you and not towards you.
Really great project! I do have a couple of suggestions to refine this project a bit. 1) I would use a paste (not liquid) type epoxy, something like PC-7, to secure the cut off portion of the shackle in the lock body then sand it flush I worry that hot glue could come loose over time and the cut off shackle could rotate with hard use (i.e. taking the lock off the gun and throwing it into a truck bed) 2) heat the long portion of the heat shrink tubing to up to about an inch from the bend so that it is retained. Then pull the short end tight to remove the wrinkles at the bend, then finish the rest of the heat shrink. 3) Not sure if it would work but you could use the cut off portion (the non-retained part) in the lock body when you dip it. Then cut the plastidip flush against the top of the lock against the shackle which should make for a slightly cleaner look. Again these are small suggestions for a more refined look - nothing wrong with what you did here!
I have put several layers of heat shrink tubing on cables/wire to increase their od to match the strain relief. You could "pad" the new shackle that way. And a heat shrink gun helps. A hair dryer will not do it.
Thank you man! I only have conventional gun locks so I use them and remove parts from the gun while they are stored. This is a great video and I'm sharing it with anyone I know with guns. Also Jay's comment about using a wrench is great too! Awesome how your video to create 1 DIY gun lock actually ended with 2, great work inspiring ppl!
“Fine I’ll do it myself.” - LPL In all seriousness, this is one of the coolest videos of yours. No doubt lock companies could easily make this for a fraction of the cost, but until they choose to this seems to be a very good solution. I also want to see how much better it could look if you used your professional tools. . .
You could also very easily design this to be adjustable to fit any gun. Just make the center of the shank have slots with about two or three machine screws so you can adjust the length in quarter inch increments to fit any gun without leaving slop. It ideally would also be made so that the padlock body is tucked into the handle and can't just get sawed off there. I hope someone out there has since taken this idea and turned it into a real product. It's a great idea and I'd feel way safer with this than a shitty trigger lock.
Any lock is better than no lock on a gun when preventing unathorized use. However, like all things, no one does this and considers it secure for real. Get a REAL gun safe, and bolt it to your floor if that's a concern. Otherwise, you're just lying to yourself and even if you put this lock on, it's easily defeated and wouldn't hold up in court as a defense for anyone whos seriously grilling you for explanations and liability. Liability is king. We don't secure work guns like this for a reason, it's pointless, another useless task which doesn't defend/protect anyone, and if someone already bypassed a actual walk-in safe, through 4 locked staff doors, bypassed security and got into several smaller floor-mounted gun-safes and then opened the seperate ammunition safes-- I'd say they can cut this shit off within SECONDS. Defeating 4+ doors, a walk in safe, seperate bolted down safes and armed security? This won't help. Our risk-management services are anal about liability and have stated the same thing in summerize "This tool will not deflect or reduce any liability when used on any firearms on site" Not to knock LPL... It's something, but let's not pretend this will stop mass-shootings or accidental gun deaths by kids. @@NotMyActualName_
My *goodness* another responsible gun owner, I was starting to think they didn't exist. Edit: Some gunsmith could make good money adding these to his catalogue. They're not hard to make for someone that probably already has gunsmithing tools., and you can advertise a design by the Lockpicking Lawer.
You guys have asked for it many times, we have developed a cutting edge gun lock. Kudos to the lockpicking general concept. www.biolockr.com to see the lock
Great DIY video. The shank of the shortened drill bit will probably still be hard near the flutes and will be harder to grip in a chuck than what should be the softer end of the drill rod. You can choose to put the groove into the harder cut end rather than the softer original tail end. When you heat and bend the rod that point is annealed and could be bent straight by a criminal. Cutting a deep ball bearing groove all around the rod weakens the rod quite a bit, perhaps a notch would be enough and also provide a rotation lock. On reflection a rotation lock might make it easier to beak by twisting. Sourcing a lock with an extra long removable shackle might be the way to go. You could sell them on your web shop.
I love it when these ancient videos crop up randomly... That said, you _absolutely can_ get to annealing temps of carbon steel by grinding on it. The discoloration you point out at 16:17 is _well_ above temperatures where the metal will start to lose annealing. In fact, you can use the color as an indicator of when to quench it depending on the hardness you're going for, so you have no doubt made that drill bit weaker in the process of making the lock. Good thing the inside likely didn't get hot enough to embrittle it, and it's not like that drill bit is _weak_ steel anyways, so... still going to be a good lock. Just know that you have absolutely influenced the annealing even with just the dremel.
I’m not american, neither will I ever be a gun owner, but as an occasional viewer I never knew you did little project videos! It was super relaxing to watch this. :] I guess a locksmith would be a handyman too, and I understood most of what was said despite never having held a power tool properly! Great video. ❤
Shrink wrap is usually not very vulnerable. A hot temperature is fine, you just adjust it with rapid movements so it's exposed for a shorter time. As LPL said it WILL get ruined if you overheat it, but as long as you're not holding it in place over the wrap you're usually good.
Probably the best gun lock of this type on earth :D. Great project :). The part where the key doesn't turn anymore makes you swet for a second ;), but this can happen and it made the video and the build process even more real :). Thank you for sharing, great work.
FWIW, I made one of these. The divot in the bar that engages the bearing inside the lock uses about 1/3 the diameter of the bar. Creating the divot around the entire circumference as shown in the video leaves only 1/3 of the bar remaining to hold the bar in the lock. A Dremel with grinder attachment can be used to create a divot the same size as the lock shackle (only on one side of the bar) thus leaving a much stronger 2/3 of the bar remaining in tact. It's also significantly faster.
Suggestion: do not use the drill to rotate the rod in order to cut the notch. Doing so narrows the diameter of shaft weakening it. Instead keep the rod stationary and cut a notch only on one side (just like the padlock). Also, try not to quench the tool steel in water to cool it. It’ll make the notched cut-out brittle.
Excellent idea... And use the actual shackle_s notch as a model. Also, tight the drill bit into a vise with the ground end down. Use an angle grinder (i know, they are voracious) to make very short grinds (5 seconds max) and use a glass of water to cool down the rod (an helper would be very handy, just for this duty) between grinds. IMPORTANT: The steel must NOT change colour.
Makes it harder to lock tho. You have to line it up with the bearing just right and also makes the bending more difficult as you'd have to align it properly. It would be stronger as you said.
+k2crasher Are you suggesting that I use a half moon notch, like on the shackle? If so, consider how that would open this lock up to twisting attacks. 👍
no you can't make the same kind of notch as is in the shackle but you could use the measurement of the top and bottom of the notch on the shackle to indicate the top and bottom of the groove you make in the drill bit.
No I wasn't suggesting that, I just meant to add reference points for where to grind. We all have different "mechanical minds" both methods work. I like how you used a drill as a lathe for even cutting! Peace and love
I absolutely appreciate this kind of content I have been watching your videos for years and thanks to you I have taken up lock picking and non destructive problem solving as a hobby I hope to continue watching your videos for years to come thank you for your time and energy
It seems to me that a high quality lock with an extra long shackle would work for this application with a lot less home fabrication required. An Abus 83/45 lock can be fitted with a 6" x 5/16"(diameter) shackle, which would work on most autoloaders including a 1911 with no modifications. A big legal plus.
This video is incredibly informative and almost hypnotic. This is all waaaay beyond my capabilities but I loved watching the process. LPL is a pretty damn good craftsman!
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Hey LPL - It's been 6 years, but I wanted to let you know your fire alarm battery is low.
Man this video got recommended to eryone
@@YesHumphreyAppleby fr lol
The algorithm works in mysterious ways.
Damn, wtf. I guess The Algorithm wanted us all to see this after all these years.
The alarm sounds just like mine and I just changed the battery, I thought I was going crazy!
I had to open the comments to realize this was a 6 year old video.
LPL has such a cinsistent style and nailed his formula, narrating and all that years ago, I thought it was a newer upload I missed.
me too
especially since youtube was pushing it hard on me 😂
is this video suddenly getting recommended to everyone?
the only thing that tipped me off was [464], i remembered watching videos with numbers in the 1000's.
Holy crap I assumed this was new
Wait... what..?
I've watched it from start to end and I don't even have a gun.
Me neither.
zbyszanna also! Haha
Failed twice tonight with my attempt. Luckily i live with adults but still something I'd love to have for peace of mind.
Same even I can't have a handgun in my country, I never wanted to buy any gun and probably I won't be able to buy one because of my small mental health problems
Buy one
Chat: “What gun lock do you recommend?”
LPL: “Hold my smoke detector.”
Who woulda thunk a LPL vid would be helping so many people change their smoke detector batteries 6yrs later
@@Thecarboardking I recently buyed smoke detectors that should work for 10 years and I got really angry while checking on them and waiting for any of those to beep again while the video was paused.
Whats up with the smoke detector thing?
@@NemexiaM You can hear a smoke detektor throughout the whole video.
@@Thecarboardking helping? this is more like an act of terrorism. i dont even wanna know how many completely fine smoke detectors were harmed in the watching of this video
You have earned a lot of respect. You not only found flaws in gunlocks, you have found a solution for the problem. Great job and thanks for a great video.
THanks very much -- glad you liked this.
And he took a minor loss on it too. No ads means less TH-cam money. He genuinely wanted to provide a solution to a problem. And he's right. Any children he has or may have are the only tweens getting in this thing. 💯
@Legionary I don't TH-cam. Lol
@Legionary you just had too man...
@@jesseredfield8194 don't worry. The comments section is a place time doesn't flow. In my time vsause just released a video on this a few days ago. Comments boost user engagement. The internet is your playground. Have fun.
As a teenager one of my friends showed me his mom’s gun. Freaked me out. He had slipped out the hinge bar from the back of her cheap gun lock box and opened it backwards. Unconscionable how easy they are to get into. Thanks for exposing this industry and really cool solution here.
Firearm safety begins with responsible exposure, NOT COMPLETE SEPERATION. Gun locks are treated like jokes by responsible firearm owners for a reason. One of the first things my father tought me and my brother is about firearms, how they were always dangerous for us because they can always be loaded and we can always end up accidentally loading them, and to not play with them, but also exposed to them to normalise them to neither fear them, or harbor an exceptional curiosity in them. The concept of keeping your guns in your home unlocked with your kids is fucking retarded. My parents didn't lock up their car keys for their other car when they were out and me and my brother were left home alone, that notion would be fucking insane, it's no different for guns as they are no more dangerous tools, arguably much less dangerous given their lack of motiom and action once you set them down even if your kid does touch then and have a negligent discharge or a mechanical accident occurs.
@@JohnSmith-fq3rgWhilst it might seem insane the number of accidents in the US down to gun misuse shows that your parenting experience isn't representative.
Gun locks have a place and that place is where the government can't step in and mandate how you parent your children. It can put laws on how you're supposed to store dangerous weapons though.
Just like bottles of bleach having childproof tops - ideally children either know the risks or don't have access to bleach. Guns are like that, except some older kids think they're cool things to show off about (not many think it's cool to wave around a bottle of bleach).
You just unlocked a very dear memory for me. I won't elaborate for... reasons but, thanks.
@@JohnSmith-fq3rg "The concept of keeping your guns in your home unlocked with your kids is fucking retarded"
I assume you meant to say "locked"
@@JohnSmith-fq3rg I agree, you need the best locks for guns. Slipping out hinges is no good. Peace 🙏
Can't wait for your "best cookie jar lock ever".
LOL.
Would make for a nice gimmick video: lockable non-valuables. Think cookie jar, diary or toilet door. I'd definitely watch that, and with your skills, I'm certain I would be entertained.
Not too long ago refrigerators used to be locked with padlock or even with integrated locks.
Vaasref 7
Raisin cookies in the jar make an effective theft deterrent.
it baffles me how seemingly easy it is to build a well funtioning gun lock, yet many manufacturers cant seem to get it right, well done LPL
I watched this and my first thought is where are the entrepreneurs? I hope they are watching.
@@ayguy9855 The main problem with THIS gun lock is that it seems "Gun (model) Specific". Generally, gunlocks need to fit a variety of weapons. Unfortunately, this is one of their weaknesses, though/
I bet it could be made general enough if the bolt of a certain length was sold separately from the lock body, so you buy the right length (or bolt) for your weapon. I don't think even a half inch of play would make much difference especially if it was all factory hardened. This technique doesn't really work for crappy cheap locks though so I'm sure most manufacturers do their best to use cheap parts.
That lock would be easy to break open tho. The ground the drill bit very thin to make it lock.
I use drill bits that size and much larger at work and see them break all the time.
Taking that much material off of it makes it very weak at that point.
a lawyer, a lock picker, a communicator, and a hell of an artisan. what a legend you are, Sir.
And all that was 6 years ago
And a dentist!
@@JrizzleSkate : are you kidding?
and he's a joker a smoker and a midnight toker
he sure doesn't want to hurt no one 😜
@@garywheeler7039 wooosh
I know you said you didn't need comments on easier substitutions, but your project brought to mind two things most every house has at least one of each that could be used with no modifications at all: An adjustable wrench and an ordinary padlock. Find the appropriate size adjustable wrench to fit down through the ejection port and out the bottom of the mag well (rubber coated handle would be a bonus). Lock an ordinary short-shackle padlock through the hanger hole in the wrench handle and you've created an instant gun lock that's tougher than a typical cable lock. In addition, you would still have the lock shackle available to attach a chain so the gun couldn't be removed to a workshop for cutting.
I'm sure someone has done this before, but I don't ever remember seeing it and it sprang to mind while watching your excellent video.
Interesting ideas!
I agree with LPL; that's very creative!!!
You, sir, are a dormant genius.
That is a very astute observation jay, and your suggestion is both poor man friendly and you still get to keep two fully functioning tools however I feel LPL’s approach is better for three reasons, his lock is engineered for speed and less gun damaging slop as well as having a dedicated tool for the job.
If you did what you just described and plasti-dipped the whole thing it would protect the gun from scratches...
Good to see an episode of Lock Building Lawyer
Lol it's back in my feed. 7 years after I watched it. Still a killer video
So, six years later, I'm curious what 2023 LPL has to think of 2017 LPL's work here.
Setting on one false start on two
I don’t even own a gun
I think that by now he has realized that he had the wrong sequence.
1. Bend
2. Cut the bent part
3. cut the bottom so that it fits into the lock
4. make one groove for the ball bearing, not a circle one.
@@EujenSandu And that's why it would make a great follow-up video. 😃
@@EujenSanduHe almost lost some length when testing the notch depth . If he had ended up cutting it off, premature bending would make it too short .
Also, to get locked by a big round ball, the notch must be semicircular .
My 15 year old son just came into the livingroom and said " You watch The LPL?" Yes, yes I do. He then proceeds to tell his friends that he has the coolest Mom ever! Thank you LPL for being someone that makes me a cool mom ;-)
Now you two also have something to bond over. Which is another win imo
Get a practice lockpicking set to play with together!
You should be less proud because he doesn't know how to use the verb "Do".
@@Liofa73 False. He was asking a rhetorical question. You are a fraud.
This is actually awesome and heartwarming
"Depending on what lock you use..." Like anyone is going to NOT use the lock LockPickingLawyer recommended. :)
Joe Shopper but if Giorno said it was shit would u still get it
@@nikitakravtchouk7570 Giorno? GIORNO GIOVANNA?!!!!
@@nikitakravtchouk7570 yeah.
@@nikitakravtchouk7570 if I was feeling like a rich man I'd use a bowley lel
Hey I live in Australia and imma use Lockwoods, they're pretty good!
Oh wait I can't get a pistol 😔
Just goes to show the consistency this man provides. Didn't even realise this video was 6 years old. Also don't own a gun, I don't plan on owning a gun, probably shouldn't own a gun, but still watched it anyways.
I agree. Best way to prevent kids getting into your guns is to not get a gun in the first place :)
Or just get a gun safe…. Isn’t that hard
@@death22_fighter27I can't speak for them, but I shouldn't have a gun, which is why I don't.
I'm a dumbfick idiot drunk. Now imagine that + gun?
Yeah, not the best results right?
I'll take point on the zombie apocalypse. I can farm, I'm in MENSA... I've got other skills. I'll leave the shooting to you.
@@defconone1498best way is to shoot them, no problems then
I was the same. I'm 41 and didn't but my first gun until late February 2020. I had a feeling things might become chaotic or "mostly peaceful" as the MSM would say.
I just wish LPL would do a audiobook, his voice is so calming. I feel safe while listen to him.
"Chapter 3: A Click on 1"
@@jorenminer8817 yeah I'd feel the opposite of safe if i heard that at my front door.
At camp I played lpl my roommates fell asleep instantly
@@just-there barbarians!
Maybe without the grinding noise then...
Pro Tip for heatshtink.
If you gently pull the heatshrink as you heat it at the bend you can usually get the creases out.
I was trying to coach him while he was doing that. I'm like ugh, I'm old so I was getting anxious. Lol
If you go to the electrical department of a Home Depot they have small cans of liquid rubber for electrical connections. They have screw on caps with a brush attached just like CPCV pipe glue. Reusable for many years.
Or could use that flex seal stuff which is kinda the same thing. That's what this comment reminds me of at least.
Plastidip
It's called liquid electrical tape and it's garbage. Good luck not making your tool look like a shit that would concern your primary doctor. It's even crap for what it's supposed to be used for, regular shrink tubing is better in every way.
Just put a layer of clingwrap over the plastidip can before you put the lid back on and it'll last long enough to pass the full can down to your grandchildren because you will probably never use it again anyways. Add another layer of clingwrap on top of that with a rubber band and you could probably pass it on to the the species that rises from our ashes after humanity's downfall.
Or get the spray if you want your tools to actually look decent. Slightly more prep and skill required though.
@@flyingtentacle7631yes to the spray, I use that now.. no to the cling wrap, I tried that with multiple layers.
LPL is truly a jack of all trades, being a lawyer who can pick locks and… do workshop stuff with drill things, what’s a good word for that
“Garden shed engineering”? I was about to call it “household engineering” but “garden shed” or “garage” fits better I guess
Little tip for pushing heat shrink around that bend. Use a solvent like isopropyl alcohol as a lubricant instead of a petroleum base. The petroleum lube will always be there. Alcohol will eventually evaporate. That's an old motorcycle handlebar grip technique.
Or just use distilled water. Alcohol will eff with the adhesive.
I wondered why he didn't dip the rod and save faffing with the heat shrink
@andyp5899 this was my question as well, what was the advantage of the heat shrink vs plati-dip (which I've never heard of to be honest, never heard of marine grade heat shrink either though). Maybe the only flaw in this video was not explaining this.
@technerd9655 I think the heat shrink will be more durable. That would be more important on the part that rubs the sharper corners of the gun more than the lock body. The lock body seems to only touch a plastic piece at the bottom of the mag well.
@@MadcattlxUnfortunately the only part of the drill bit that is likely to damage the inside of the gun (the end) is not covered in plasti dip or heat shrink. Not much you can do about that though.
just a tip for bending rods like that. bend away from the flame. the steel on that side the bend needs to stretch more and should be hotter and in more direct contact with the flame
Thought that myself, turned out good though 👍
yes the heat should be on the outside of the bend simply because due to compression will get "hotter" and the expanding will be cooling
you'd need an angled pipe (or other tool) then, otherwise you're likely to burn your hand
@@pixelmaster98 Nah, you can direct the flame downwords and still on the outside of the bend.
I was looking at that too. Good eye.
everyone: makes jokes about how LPL sounds like a dentist when he picks locks
LPL at 22:30: uses an actual dental pick in a video
I fear the man who just has backup dental picks when he loses a scribe
I can actually taste and hear The sound of it scratching. Horrifying.
The Soooound I can't fgfgsfg
@@sankang9425 thus begins San Kang's annual tradition of revisiting this thread to remind us of dental anti-ASMR
@@mrnoodles3895 Dental picks are a must have for any serious electronics technician's toolbox.
6 years later and the vibes are still immaculate.
Would love more of these project videos
14:05
LPL: grinding
YT auto-generated subtitles: MUSIC!
I turned on captions just to see lmao 😂
the shit that passes for music these days (waves cane)
@@yoymate6316 get off my lawn, ya' damn youngster!
Very cool. Never heard of Plasti-Dip, I want to buy a can and dip everything I own in it for a nice form-fitting ergonomic extra-grip surface. My toothbrush, my bicycle handles, my PS4 controller, my phone, my shoelaces, a banana..
Torgo just don't be drunk and naked around that stuff
I dipped my computer mouse in it.. Doesn't right click anymore. Thoughts?
Mark England nice job
LOL... it's good stuff. And Damian... don't worry about that. Mine doesn't fit in the can. :-P
THAT'S funny... I don't care who you are!
LPL, this is an awesome little project and I love the spirit of it, making it as widely available as possible. The machinist in me can't help but offer slight change for future iterations though. Drill shanks tend to be at least partially annealed already and the area closer to the flutes may have a higher hardness but, this would actually leave the lock weaker to a brute force attack if you swung down with a hammer onto the padlock (I should mention now that I am halfway through the video so, apologies if this is tested later). I think a simple solution is to instead use a length of stainless steel rod (should be available at most hardware stores) preferably in 316 or a similarly gummy alloy. These alloys have much better tensile properties than the drill rod will and even with that drastic notch, should hold up to physical attacks. This also provides added difficulty to cutting and grinding attacks as stainless is notorious for its poor machinability. To that end, keeping with the dremel lathe set up, one could likely make the notch a bit more quickly by using the cut off wheel and spinning it opposite the direction of the work. Then simply cant the cutoff wheel at an angle to the work until the desired radius is achieved in the rod. Do not notch the rod and then try to angle the cut off disc though as that would likely break it. Anywho, thanks for this thought experiment!
when you're cutting something off, the sparks won't hurt you (obv using eye pro). The tool biting and throwing itself in the opposite direction of the sparks will. Thus it's usually safer to have the sparks towards you so that in case of a problem the tool would just fly away from you.
Also, humans have better control pulling than pushing, that's why you have more precision over the cut when you're pulling the tool towards you while it's trying to escape than if you're pushing it trying to stop it from getting closer.
until the object comes flying at you.....
@@commonsenseisdeadin2024 the "object" is supposed to be held in a vice
@@vanoscrap6296 so stand perpendicular and not get sparks thrown at you or the tool nipping you!
Hell a cut off wheel can just as easily bite and go 180° around a small diameter round object. I guess I always attack it with the back bottom side I guess. (So if holding the die grinder straight out would be the position of the blade between 6 AND 9 o' clock)
Just an observation, if you hold your torch a little further away from the work it will heat up quicker. The hottest part of the flame is where the bright blue area creates a point.
I'm a lab techie and grown up people refuse to believe this on a daily basis :D
@@user-ul6bm8pt2yna gaz is right
@user-ul6bm8pt2y That’s rude!
@@spleeber2013 he's agreeing with me I believe
@@user-ul6bm8pt2y To be fair i know that but my monkey brain still goes "closer flame more hot" every time i have to heat something, since usually hot things get less hot with distance
Very slick design. Just a couple quick points. After grinding the drill bit to make a grove, wipe off any fillings before testing in the lock. Before appling the rubber coating to the lock, use rubbing alcohol to remove grease and finger prints so the plastic doesn't lift in time
I definitely got rid of the dust/filings before moving the gun within 10 yards of the bench. That can destroy a precision fitted gun like this. Good point on degreasing.
@@lockpickinglawyer why didn't you just dip the drill stock at the same time as the lock body.
@@tini4580 it would make the drill bit fuse with the lock and you cant un lock it
@@samueladiwinata3440 you can flip the lock around and dip the shackle without fusing it buddy
In another comment thread someone addressed this. The plasti-dip will flake off as it wears, not what you want inside your precision firearm.
What?! No Plasma cutter? No lathe? No 5 axis cnc to machine your own 1911 frame and slide to use the lock on?! 😒
Great video man. Love the projects!
elesjuan Someone needs to CNC a Glock slide onto a 1911 Body and watch as millions of fanboys cry out and be suddenly silenced by the death star equivalent of a fire arm
Hah! If I had means... I'd do it!
Make a 1911 slide for a glock frame too!
LOL... the closest I have to a 5 axis CNC is my dremel and a lazy susan!
+LockPickingLawyer This made me laugh harder than it should have.
IMO, replace the safety with the correct lock insert. Need to insert a key into the gun to enable it, the way you use ignition key in a car.
"We're going to quickly fashion a J-hook with a slotted shank fitted to accept a proven lock shackle" is a pretty awesome flex.
An empty paint can, the small ones, can be used to store the plasti-dip after opening it and will keep it fresh. It's what we did at a plant that I worked at where we used it as a bolt tightened indicator and tool handle maker.
Basically get it into something which seals well and completely fills it - the air gap at the top is what'll make it go bad
@@TimSheehan You need a seal that will stop really light petroleum distillates from evaporating. Paint cans usually pull this off with their spring steel seal as it is very tight and what little sealant it there is not permeable to the stuff that is going to evaporate off from the product.
You do want to use a paint can rated at holding enamel and shellac paints as they use the kind of solvents that are similar to the stuff you are trying to not have evaporate, so the seals on the cans will work.
The chirping smoke detector in this video had me looking in my house to see which one was low battery. Only today on picking up the last part of the video I previously didn't finish, I hear the noise again and realised. Making me check all my detectors isn't a bad thing at least!
But I did eat breakfast this morning.
Same, and I'd replaced all my detectors last month.
I was just sitting here wondering which smoke detector I missed last month...
Same with me. paused, listened and nothing. replayed a spot and realized its in the video.
@@tonyrobbins6714 exactly what I was thinking
I got angrier every time he’d put it on and it wouldnt lock lmao
thats about the time i turned it to 1.5x speed
I had to skip
Same LMAO
Perhaps what you need is an anger grinder.
Nick Number LOL
The most I've learned from the gun lock series is that a good gun lock has to
A. Prevent the gun from firing (Ie, prevent the gun from going into battery, doesn't work for all firearms but a lot of modern ones can't be used if the bolt isn't fully closed)
and
B. Not be unlocked with a piece of metal that you can violently shake inside the core of the lock until it pops open.
"extraordinarily difficult to pick"
a few years later: "I'm going to use the pick Bosnian Bill and I made... and as you saw that wasn't too difficult a pick"
What ep number is that
Several just keep watching and you will stumble on one of them.
Of course this lock still works for purpose since a curious teen likely does not have access to that special pick until they also are mature enough to be taught proper firearm handling.
the fact they had to make the pick is one huge difficulty
"stopping an unskilled adolescent from accessing the lock"
Most unskilled adolescents don't have highly specialized lockpicking equipment. No gun lock is going to stop a criminal from using the unsecured firearm you left lying around, but one like this mostly will keep your kids from shooting themselves or others with it (which is #2 cause of death among children even if you remove gun homicides from the mix).
That just showcases the need for the industry to keep evolving and not just keep reusing the same outdated designs
sounds like you have a smoke alarm that needs a new battery
I thought I was going crazy
You think you were going crazy. I _do_ have a smoke alarm that needs a new battery but it only beeps in cold weather. I couldn't figure what was causing it to act up.
I do... sorry. I didn't even notice. :-(
Lol. I don't mind it, I just find it funny when I hear it and/or people don't know what it is.
Adam Carolla! That's funny for a few people, and that's good enough for me.
19:45 "Uh oh." NOW we're working on a home project!
Yeah, it was right about there that I started wondering whether the video would end in success.
It feels so strange to have LPL helping us build a lock, but I’m loving that he cares enough about gun safety and people safety that he’s willing to teach us how to solve this problem.
"This is the LockPickingDentist, and it is project day..."
As we have 2 kids, and 6 times that amount in guns, I appreciate you taking the time to make this video. Fun project to do with my oldest and teach her along the way about safety.
Very epic that you teach your kids both about the use of firearms, and the safe keeping of them as well. Very commendable.
Would be less accidents if more parents would do this
Have your guns but be aware of safety measures
I enjoy shooting sports and I enjoy watching TH-cam regarding them.. I'm happy to see (finally) a video about safe keeping of your firearm. Even if you had to build it yourself.
No one regularly reviews safety equipment, sometimes I see a review of a safe but that's all.
Thanks -- most of the gun locks out there are pretty bad. I put together a playlist of several gun locks on my channel if you are interested.
I have a questiom please. isnt this way of storing the gun weakening the springs inside ?
thanks for the reply, if there will be some
@@HyennaTheOneThis is pretty similar to a chamber flag or cable-type handgun lock for installation, which are pretty common and even supplied by manufacturers. It shouldn't damage anything.
Hey LPL, not sure if this was updated or that you will see this but just some tips for you and anyone who might want to make this:
When marking the notch for the shank, just put it next to the one you cut off and mark the center of the existing notch on the drillbit. Perfect every time.
Honestly ditch the dremel idea, a small angle grinder can be had cheaper than a typical dremel, in my exp. more people have grinders too.
Get a grind wheel and a cut off wheel.
You could also grind away one side, less material to take away. just make sure the bend direction corresponds.
With the heatshrink just use a cigarette/BBQ lighter - good temperature for heatshrink and low risk of burning. if you do have a heatgun on hand theyre ideal.
For a simple upgrade you could also look at foam lagging on top of the shrink, inexpensive and if you can find a suitable size it would give a better fit and more protection for your peice.
Other than that this is a very simple but effective design.
38 minutes? This is like Christmas for LPL fans!
6 years old video. Could have watched it any time you wanted if you started from beginning of channel.
@@Vincent_Beersit's being pushed to people's recommended videos recently. I just got it myself
@@cypherial Same here
I've been looking for a good lock and some other parts to make something similar, when I stumbled across the ABUS 83/45 series. They have interchangeable shackles, which include a 6" version. I was going to attempt to do what you did here, but I found the 6" shackle fits perfectly with some room to spare in my full size Glock 22. It has the advantage of being a fully hardened/alloyed shackle with both sides present and locked in bearings. The lock is also available with either an ABUS core or SFIC style. If you are worried about pick attacks you could use a 7 pin peaks or cormax SFIC core for a pretty secure lock.
As a bonus, I can use the SFIC core to make it match all my other locks. Since I use this to travel through the airport I can use the same key to lock the gun and the case as required by TSA. I love building my own stuff, but this was much easier than making my own and probably more secure. Definitely more secure than the standard cheap cable type gun locks.
I do plan on giving it a plasti-dip to protect the gun unless I can manage to get some heat shrink tubing over the shackle.
You can stretch heat shrink while heating it (I usually use needle nose pliers for short pieces) also making it easier to slide over it then heat it as normal to shrink it.
@@garyhager714 maybe nail clippers to snip some of the excess material off, or even just plasti-dip that part too.
I appreciate LPL providing the education regarding tools, plastidip, heat shrink, etc... and a basic blueprint for a firearm lock. I also appreciate croud-sourcing the incremental improvements to that blueprint. Thanks for the vid that stands the test of time... 5 years and counting.
Years ago I was doing some prototyping and opened four new different color cans of PlastiDip thinking I could use a tiny amount and they'd keep fine on the shelf...lesson learned...
LOL... yup, it happens to us all... once.
thechosendude remelt it if it dries out.
Ron Calabrese you can do that?
Naphta gets it usable again
Won't happen to me now ;)
I got this recommended to me 6 years later, it seems so much more appealing if the video is newer for some reason.
A worthwhile project and LPL has saved some curious teens... TY LPL!
😅
if the sparks are going in your direction that means that if the rotatory tool jumps out of your control it will roll away and not directly in your fingers holding those pliers (just like the angle grinder or a chainsaw throws the sparks-sawdust in your direction)
You know, I never consciously thought about it that way. Nicely put. God I have a love hate relationship with death wheels.
Either way use PPE, when the disc explodes they do considerable damage. I have a scar on my wrist to remind me, luckily it missed my artery.
Thank you for taking time and tremendous effort to guide us through the steps of making such an original and effective gun lock. I think many viewers don't realize exactly what goes into making a production of such length and detail.
P.S. I invested in a heat gun around a decade ago and it's been a godsend. I highly recommend it.
Thanks... and you are correct that this was a bit of a PITA, but not as bad as I thought. Also, I have a heat gun. Trying to keep the number of tools to a minimum, thus using the torch for two purposes.
LockPickingLawyer Oh! I heard you mention keeping tools to a minimum, but didn't realize you dual-purposed the torch. I was threading chambers of a core while your video played. So I wasn't quite as attentive as usual.
This is amazing... all that lock knowledge and experience put to practical application.
Massive change of pace, and a welcome one. Mr. Lawyer is a great narrator too.
Clear and easy to understand what he's doing. Not always clear WHY, until the end.
Would not be opposed to seeing more of such projects.
This series is incredible, it should come back!
When Lockpickinglawyer says “Uh oh”.....
Must be difficult to be Mrs. LPL.
LPL: "Honey, our house is secured by a lock that even I can't pick!"
Mrs LPL: "What if I lose the key?"
LPL: "That's why the torch, angle grinder and crowbars are conveniently next to the door"
Hoping you've got a spare 9v battery for your smoke detector 👀
I enjoy the change of pace of this one! Cool little diy project!
I had to pause the video a few times to make sure it wasn't my smoke detector chirping.
@@smgibbsame 😂
Oh
Thanks
@@smgibb HA! so did I.
Thanks for the full length video. It’s well made. I enjoyed how it leverages your deep knowledge of secure padlocks, and combines it with your appreciation of keeping firearms safe.
This is one of my favorites.
I have been watching your channel for a few years and must say that you have made the world a better place than if you had not been in it. Your past recommendations (and warnings) have certainly saved a non-zero amount of families from attacks and now with this video you have certainly saved families from a non-zero amount of firearm tragedies. There is no reasonable way to estimate some statistics but even if it was just one less dead kid in the world, it's worth it. Even planting the idea of home safety in peoples minds matters. I expect to have children within the next few years and I feel confident in your safety recommendations for my future firearm and home. Thank you. Seriously.
Yes, only now. Not 6 years ago when the video was released. 😂
I didn't notice either. Another comment pointed it out. The algorithm gods just decided that now is the true time for this vid, and turned out to be right.
yay
Well if anyone were to produce this then a improvement might bee to have a small lock that fits it inside the magwell to protect the lock body from a lot of destructive entry's as well.
Agreed... but at the expensive of losing some universal fitment. A better approach may be a wedge shape that fits into the mag well and a ratcheting shackle.
Great videos. You’ve combined my childhood hobby (locks) and adult hobby (guns) on this one. Bonus points for knowing all about the properties of the steel and not wanting to mess up the heat treat.
This video got recommended to me so much I didn't realize it was an old video until I paid attention to the number. Just goes to show that your style has been consistent (and consistently good) for going on 7 years now.
Don't know how i missed this video for 6 years. Still a very valuable project!
My only suggestions for improvement are:
1) Use the shakle to mark off the groove on the drill bit. To make it easier to tell when you are getting close
2) Use the cutoff wheel to cut the depth of the groove then come back with the grinding stone to shape.
3) Hold torch back when heating so the tip of the blue flame is almost touching.
4) Directly after the bend is complete, reheat to red hot and drop in oil to quench. Any oil will do, I typically use used motor oil.
5) Clean both the lockbody and drill bit with acetone or 90%+ isopropyl alcohol prior to coating. I've had issues with plasti dip debonding if surface is not very clean. I would also place a few drops of the plasti dip down the end of the heat shrink which will completly seal the end.
Great advice, not just for this project!
Great job! When you pulled out the dremel to grind the groove I knew we were in for a long video! Looks like a very effective lock. Gun manufacturers take note, something as dangerous as a gun needs a good quality lock.
Олег Hentaisha - первый ткнувший пальцем в Муди-лу, Жаба Rosoero - чел давший подзатыльник
Ok but can we appreciate his commitment to what he says by keeping the 1911 chamber empty with slide back, safety on, and the mag well empty
It's actually safer to cut sparking towards you (with safety glasses, which you should have on regardless). You can stand to one side so the majoritt of sparks pass you. The tool is going to be pulling in the opposite direction to the sparks. Firstly, it tends to be easier to maintain control of a tool that's pulling away from you, but more importantly, if you do lose control, you want the tool to jerk away from you and not towards you.
I was shouting the same thing!
Yeah, but to be able to film it, it's better to shoot the sparks away from the camera
Really great project! I do have a couple of suggestions to refine this project a bit. 1) I would use a paste (not liquid) type epoxy, something like PC-7, to secure the cut off portion of the shackle in the lock body then sand it flush I worry that hot glue could come loose over time and the cut off shackle could rotate with hard use (i.e. taking the lock off the gun and throwing it into a truck bed) 2) heat the long portion of the heat shrink tubing to up to about an inch from the bend so that it is retained. Then pull the short end tight to remove the wrinkles at the bend, then finish the rest of the heat shrink. 3) Not sure if it would work but you could use the cut off portion (the non-retained part) in the lock body when you dip it. Then cut the plastidip flush against the top of the lock against the shackle which should make for a slightly cleaner look. Again these are small suggestions for a more refined look - nothing wrong with what you did here!
Thanks for the suggestions.
Nice to see somebody else using the hillbilly hand lathe
I just kept thinking, "He's going to injure those magnificent, lock-picking fingers!" Man, the dread every time those sparks started up...
This is from 6 years ago, I think he survived.
@@Vincent_Beers Still. The dread was there.
Came for the how-to video, got fantastic comedy gold. "Back to the grind stone"... delivered so deadpan. I see what you did there!
I have put several layers of heat shrink tubing on cables/wire to increase their od to match the strain relief. You could "pad" the new shackle that way. And a heat shrink gun helps. A hair dryer will not do it.
Yes, I have a heat gun. I was trying to keep the number of tools down, and heat guns are not that common in the average garage.
We are not average.
LockPickingLawyer but hair dryer's in bathrooms are more common than even garages
Harbor freight needs to be more well known than home depot. Many quintessential tools can be had for more than fair prices.
They are increasingly plentiful and WONDERFUL for DIYers. I scatter 'em around my shops for convenience.
Sweet video! Gonna make one of these for my dad for Father's Day now that he is a grandfather!
Thanks, and good luck with this!
How did it go?
Thank you man! I only have conventional gun locks so I use them and remove parts from the gun while they are stored.
This is a great video and I'm sharing it with anyone I know with guns.
Also Jay's comment about using a wrench is great too! Awesome how your video to create 1 DIY gun lock actually ended with 2, great work inspiring ppl!
Removing part of the gun and storing it in another gun safe helps a lot.
A good trick to help make the mark more visible is to mark the shaft with a sharpy first then it will scratch of the sharpy and is easy to see
“Fine I’ll do it myself.”
- LPL
In all seriousness, this is one of the coolest videos of yours. No doubt lock companies could easily make this for a fraction of the cost, but until they choose to this seems to be a very good solution. I also want to see how much better it could look if you used your professional tools. . .
You could also very easily design this to be adjustable to fit any gun. Just make the center of the shank have slots with about two or three machine screws so you can adjust the length in quarter inch increments to fit any gun without leaving slop.
It ideally would also be made so that the padlock body is tucked into the handle and can't just get sawed off there.
I hope someone out there has since taken this idea and turned it into a real product. It's a great idea and I'd feel way safer with this than a shitty trigger lock.
Any lock is better than no lock on a gun when preventing unathorized use. However, like all things, no one does this and considers it secure for real.
Get a REAL gun safe, and bolt it to your floor if that's a concern. Otherwise, you're just lying to yourself and even if you put this lock on, it's easily defeated and wouldn't hold up in court as a defense for anyone whos seriously grilling you for explanations and liability. Liability is king. We don't secure work guns like this for a reason, it's pointless, another useless task which doesn't defend/protect anyone, and if someone already bypassed a actual walk-in safe, through 4 locked staff doors, bypassed security and got into several smaller floor-mounted gun-safes and then opened the seperate ammunition safes-- I'd say they can cut this shit off within SECONDS.
Defeating 4+ doors, a walk in safe, seperate bolted down safes and armed security? This won't help. Our risk-management services are anal about liability and have stated the same thing in summerize "This tool will not deflect or reduce any liability when used on any firearms on site"
Not to knock LPL... It's something, but let's not pretend this will stop mass-shootings or accidental gun deaths by kids.
@@NotMyActualName_
My *goodness* another responsible gun owner, I was starting to think they didn't exist.
Edit: Some gunsmith could make good money adding these to his catalogue. They're not hard to make for someone that probably already has gunsmithing tools., and you can advertise a design by the Lockpicking Lawer.
Time to make millions
You guys have asked for it many times, we have developed a cutting edge gun lock. Kudos to the lockpicking general concept. www.biolockr.com to see the lock
@@ronbell7465 Send one to LPL to test out the locking mechanism. :)
@@AbuMaia01 tried to reach out to him but havent heard anything back yet
Great DIY video.
The shank of the shortened drill bit will probably still be hard near the flutes and will be harder to grip in a chuck than what should be the softer end of the drill rod.
You can choose to put the groove into the harder cut end rather than the softer original tail end.
When you heat and bend the rod that point is annealed and could be bent straight by a criminal.
Cutting a deep ball bearing groove all around the rod weakens the rod quite a bit, perhaps a notch would be enough and also provide a rotation lock. On reflection a rotation lock might make it easier to beak by twisting.
Sourcing a lock with an extra long removable shackle might be the way to go. You could sell them on your web shop.
This just popped up for me and all I could think was how this would be a great collaboration project with ThisOldTony.
One of the best projects ever seen! This is a great gun lock and I think I'm going to try to make one of these! Thank you so much for sharing!!!
Thanks and good luck!
I love it when these ancient videos crop up randomly...
That said, you _absolutely can_ get to annealing temps of carbon steel by grinding on it. The discoloration you point out at 16:17 is _well_ above temperatures where the metal will start to lose annealing. In fact, you can use the color as an indicator of when to quench it depending on the hardness you're going for, so you have no doubt made that drill bit weaker in the process of making the lock.
Good thing the inside likely didn't get hot enough to embrittle it, and it's not like that drill bit is _weak_ steel anyways, so... still going to be a good lock. Just know that you have absolutely influenced the annealing even with just the dremel.
Lpl has definitely gotten more confident with speaking over the last 6 years. This man is amazing.
I’m not american, neither will I ever be a gun owner, but as an occasional viewer I never knew you did little project videos!
It was super relaxing to watch this. :]
I guess a locksmith would be a handyman too, and I understood most of what was said despite never having held a power tool properly!
Great video. ❤
Other countries out there also allow guns without stupid "only if" exceptions, like Italy, The Czech Republic, Switzerland and more
Shrink wrap is usually not very vulnerable. A hot temperature is fine, you just adjust it with rapid movements so it's exposed for a shorter time. As LPL said it WILL get ruined if you overheat it, but as long as you're not holding it in place over the wrap you're usually good.
I thought this was a nice departure from the usual vid. It is nice to hear your methodical, back-to-basics, views on physical security. Thank you :)
Probably the best gun lock of this type on earth :D. Great project :). The part where the key doesn't turn anymore makes you swet for a second ;), but this can happen and it made the video and the build process even more real :). Thank you for sharing, great work.
Thanks... I did sweat for a second, but these things happen. Live and learn.
"Let me cut the video and figure this out". You're so calm
@@ro_yo_mi "Let me cut the video to say FUCK! and throw something" I'm not so calm
FWIW, I made one of these. The divot in the bar that engages the bearing inside the lock uses about 1/3 the diameter of the bar. Creating the divot around the entire circumference as shown in the video leaves only 1/3 of the bar remaining to hold the bar in the lock. A Dremel with grinder attachment can be used to create a divot the same size as the lock shackle (only on one side of the bar) thus leaving a much stronger 2/3 of the bar remaining in tact. It's also significantly faster.
Suggestion: do not use the drill to rotate the rod in order to cut the notch. Doing so narrows the diameter of shaft weakening it. Instead keep the rod stationary and cut a notch only on one side (just like the padlock). Also, try not to quench the tool steel in water to cool it. It’ll make the notched cut-out brittle.
Excellent idea... And use the actual shackle_s notch as a model.
Also, tight the drill bit into a vise with the ground end down. Use an angle grinder (i know, they are voracious) to make very short grinds (5 seconds max) and use a glass of water to cool down the rod (an helper would be very handy, just for this duty) between grinds. IMPORTANT: The steel must NOT change colour.
Makes it harder to lock tho. You have to line it up with the bearing just right and also makes the bending more difficult as you'd have to align it properly. It would be stronger as you said.
If you don’t have a groove all the way around, then this lock would be trivial to defeat via twisting.
This is very effective for how simple it is, I'm starting on mine now.
Good luck with it!
"We need more fire."
Truer words have never been spoken.
The algorithm really decided that NOW was the time for this video to shine...
Wouldn't using the end of the shackle you cut off be a good template?
k2crasher yes I agree
Definitely one secure gun lock though, even with destructive forces it would be hard not to hurt the weapon.
+k2crasher Are you suggesting that I use a half moon notch, like on the shackle? If so, consider how that would open this lock up to twisting attacks. 👍
no you can't make the same kind of notch as is in the shackle but you could use the measurement of the top and bottom of the notch on the shackle to indicate the top and bottom of the groove you make in the drill bit.
No I wasn't suggesting that, I just meant to add reference points for where to grind. We all have different "mechanical minds" both methods work. I like how you used a drill as a lathe for even cutting! Peace and love
21:00 to skip all the grinding.
That looks like a really nice 1911. 👍
RIGHT! It’s beautiful! 😍😍😍
I absolutely appreciate this kind of content I have been watching your videos for years and thanks to you I have taken up lock picking and non destructive problem solving as a hobby I hope to continue watching your videos for years to come thank you for your time and energy
It seems to me that a high quality lock with an extra long shackle would work for this application with a lot less home fabrication required. An Abus 83/45 lock can be fitted with a 6" x 5/16"(diameter) shackle, which would work on most autoloaders including a 1911 with no modifications. A big legal plus.
I would love to see more LPL projects in the future ! Great stuff buddy, thanks for taking us along :)
LPL should release a series of gun lock like this for common guns for the people who want the protection without building it
Me from The Netherlands, having never even seen a real gun irl watching this: "Ah yes"
Wonderfully Frankenlocked dude! *THAT'S* how you make a secure gun lock. Now you gotta pick it :-)
Thanks... don't hold your breath for a pick.
13:56 Me when I wake up in the morning.
i dont understand
@@imbluecat7119 A Grind can be used as a cynical way of describe a repetitve task. eg. Daily 9-5 office life.
When the LockPickingLawyer makes a lock so good he can’t even get it open with the key
This video is incredibly informative and almost hypnotic. This is all waaaay beyond my capabilities but I loved watching the process. LPL is a pretty damn good craftsman!