I've learned a lot from your videos, but you missed it on this one. You can easily prove it to yourself by taking that machine that is perfectly adjusted. Set the red handle to the 4 position. Now loosen the screw that holds the red handle to the bracket. Loosen it up good and you will note that the handle will move freely. Set it to the 5 position and then tighten it. You will now see that when you move the red handle towards the 1 position that the driving arm will stop at about the 2 position. Now you can adjust the limit of the red handle by moving the stop that you showed, push it in and tighten the screw. Now you will see that you cannot move the red handle to the 1 position, because the limit adjustment is stopping it at the 2 position. And if you look at your adjustment in the other direction you will see that even when you get to 5 you will have movement in the driving arm. So the adjustment to make if the driving arm is stopping too soon, or not soon enough, is to loosen the screw that holds the red handle on. That red handle needs to be centered between the left and right sides by noting when the driving bar stops.
Thanks for watching my channel, Mark, and for leaving such a thoughtful and detailed comment. I disagree with your statement “you missed it on this one.” I think this “ZERO-OUT” video is a good representation of how to Set the Bight Amplitude Stop Plates which Singer also called “To ZERO-OUT the Machine”. This adjustment is shown on page 140 of the SERVICE MANUAL for SINGER SWING-NEEDLE SEWING MACHINES, a 174-page manual covering models 206K, 306, 319 and 401. For anyone interested, you can download a free copy of a 45-page section of that manual that pertains to the Class 401 machines at this link; sewingdude.files.wordpress.com/2012/09/singer-401-service-manual1.pdf This is in PDF format. If I am following your comment correctly, the adjustments you describe are for lining up the needle bar driving arm with the disc. This procedure is also in the Service Manual and is shown on page 141 under the heading “TO CENTRALIZE THE NEEDLE BAR DRIVING ARM WITH THE DISC SELECTOR ARM BRACKET FOLLOWERS”. So, my video and your comment seem to be describing two different adjustments and that is why I said I disagree that I “missed it”. BTW, if you’d like to make a video about the adjustment please let me know and I will make special reference to it on my channel for viewers to find it. Thanks again, Mark, for your interest and participation with my channel. Take Care.
I have a problem machine. When width control (red levet) is set to 5, the right needle position. Needle bar does not go all the way to right. I performed your movement and dial settings to test for zero out. Machine passed both settings tests. What else do I need to do?
Your videos are so wonderful! You speak clearly and give us time to absorb what you're saying, and you repeat things enough that we can really grasp the procedures. Many, many thanks!
Thank you! I appreciate your comment. For other viewers model 401A and 500A are about 95% the same mechanically so my 401A Playlist can be helpful for working with your 500A: th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKLiDl9yFTP6mJgQmz5lj4NO.html My 500A Playlist is short but has a few good tips: th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKIk6-t-zdVJKQVVAE6TjrE-.html My 21-videos Model 503A show working on many of the parts of the 500A: th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKJZaZn2zl3LsnV2d7UhrqvX.html Thanks again, Janette, seeing you call me a teacher is very rewarding. Take care.
That was a very clear and informative explanation of a difficult subject. I've read many parts of different Singer manuals and it takes me a long time to get their meaning, not so with your excellent videos. I learn from your video and use the manual as a reference. I'm sure you have to work in the reverse order, read and learn from the manual and then develop your excellent videos. Thanks
Thank you, Terry, and you are really perceptive. I learn best from something like a manual or technical paper. How I learned and self-taught during my career. So you are correct; I do read the manual and go over the procedure while looking at the machine, and then try to do a video that makes sense. I've been told many, many times that most people learn best by visual media, so TH-cam is a great place for people to learn. It really works for me in trying to help people get the idea of working on their machines and keeping them in service. Thanks for watching and a nice comment. Take Care.
Andy, thank you so much for your time and detailed replies! You are so very generous with your knowledge! 💖 Happy Valentine’s Day!! I’m going to look at all you have mentioned and def clean those cams!! I did have it serviced within the last year...and he did exactly what you said..it dripped for days after i got it back and and when I opened the top I saw lumps of grease on the gears...and charged me $125. I didn’t know the zigzag didn’t work back then just did straight stitch quilting. Started making bowls recently and need the zigzag! I look forward to repairing. Your machines just sparkle! That’s how I realized how dirty mine is. Yesterday I did look at the bottom...not too bad, but I want mine to sparkle too!! 🥰 also after over thirty years, I opened up my first machine. Was told it was a 66 from 1930! Take care...I’ll let you know how I make out when I get to it!!
I'm excited that you want to work on your own machine! You can do it, Pat, 👍and you'll find it rewarding. I've found that just cleaning and properly lubricating a machine can fix about 90% of odd stitching problems. It is rare for a machine like yours to break unless someone played around with the parts. They are so well made. If by chance a part did break or fell off, replacement vintage parts are still readily available on eBay. Ooo... a model 66, huh? Lucky you. I've only worked on one black Singer vintage machine, a model 99K. It turns out the 99K is a 3/4 sized version of model 66, and my restoration videos for my 99K could be applied to your 66. th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKIIUgkEujqHc9iNWN9NPW2Z.html So lucky you, owning two of the nicest machines Singer made. Enjoy, and take care. ✨
@@andytubesewing1953 I can't believe it....I think I grew WINGS because I just been flying around all afternoon!! My 401a ZIGs and it now ZAGs again!!! I have to admit I was overwhelmed and intimidated to do this completely on my own after days of watching different videos and losing sleep thinking about it. Finally, I asked a friend of mine (mechanic of older and antique autos) if he would watch a couple of the videos and be with me going through this process. It took us four hours yesterday and four more hours today...BUT we got it done!! It was such an emotional ride for me (mostly thinking I'd never get it right)...but in the end, I learned so much and feel so much more comfortable knowing what's under the lid!! :) It's not clean, as we focused on the problem issues first...didn't take everything apart - just sections we believed were suspicious. It turned out to be the NB!! On the third disassembling and cleaning the NB...(especially the inside piece) when assembled again, it finally gave way to a full swing from left to right!! I knew we had it when I heard the click, click, click going left to right to left (red lever on 5)...just like in your video. Prior to that, it had more of a squish, squish restriction...had to push back and forth only by manually pushing. I couldn't be more excited!! I'll love this machine for the rest of my days! Andy, you were so right....VERY satisfying!! My friend said...the last adjustment is always the key. HA HA So TRUE! Now one day soon, I'll get the supply list and can feel very comfortable taking things apart and making them SHINE again! Can't thank you enough for all your encouragement. You're the BEST!!
@@patchase4773 😀 I'm so glad you persisted and forged ahead into the unknown. With your determination and the help of your friend (now that is a true friend), you found the solution. 🏆 So happy for you, Pat. Now you know it is possible to work on and maintain that wonderful machine. Thanks for letting me along on the journey. You made my afternoon today. Really... I'm pretty good, but you and your friend are the best now. ✨Take care.
I think you are right. Never see a video on this subject. Really nice. I'm partial to the 401a, as a you kid I learned to sew on my mother's. Wasn't long before I had to get my own machine a 1590. Still have that one. I believe my sister has my mom's 401a. I think all an all the 400 series is pretty hard to beat for a mechanical. All of my foriegn machines of this era had plastic gears and cloth belts. Great smooth machines as long they don't break. Try to find parts for an old Adler Wow. Thanks Andy.
thanks for watching and taking time to comment. I remember looking at a machine, maybe called a grasshopper, that was really interesting to me. When I looked inside I saw some kind of a cloth drive belt with metal cleats in it that was starting to fall apart. I asked the seller where I could find a replacement belt like that and he replied "now you know why I'm selling it". Lesson learned. I've never seen a 1590 or 91 in person. That potted motor looks great. Thanks for stopping by and take care.
i will follow all the instructions, to fix my machine hopefully! To answer your question: THERE'S NOT 1 SINGLE VIDEO in the 4 languages i understand a little that shows how to 'ZERO-OUT' these machine models (i can assure you) ... God Bless you for your talentS ! Take car you too.
thanks, and nice of you to say. Kind of a weird one to record and try to make sense of the procedure, but even my granddaughter says it's "OK Grandpa" (my toughest critic!) Thanks for watching.
I just bought a 500A, couldn't resist the price... I need to watch your cam stack video. and any other videos pertaining to the 500A, or 401A... I bet you cover it in this video, (just started watching) when my inner knob is all the way down, the indicator is on (L) instead of (K). My 500A is pretty clean, I got everything moving pretty well, but need to get further into it. the inner knob (mechanical movements) is a bit sticky.. oh boy,, more videos to watch.. Thanks Andytube.
Congrats on your new Slant-O-Matic Rocketeer! My 401A Playlis covers most of the part systems on your 500A. th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKLiDl9yFTP6mJgQmz5lj4NO.html Usually, once you clean everything the followers will line up. If not, there is a video to rest the height of the index pins that hold the followers. The Service Manual for the 500/503 covers all the adjustments, too! BTW, don't be surprised if you find a broken spring on the bobbin winder.
@@andytubesewing1953 Thank you for the playlist link.. my bobbin winder springs look good,, old tire, but the movements good and adjusted properly. the thread tension was messed up, puckered fabric, and the foot was a bit cock eyed, and the fabric pulled to one side.. there was lots of lint in the bobbin area.. but the machine overall is about a 9.8 or 9.9 out of 10.. really quite clean. but It needs to be really well cleaned..I have a lot to learn about the mechanics of the cam stack and knobs etc.. uh. Thanks again Andy. I know what I will be doing in my spare time..
@@connieworcester55 oh that's great news! I love a machine like that that's mechanically and cosmetically sound. I don't care about the dirt and grime that comes off and it's rewarding when you're finished. Have a good time. I'll be thinking of you
@@andytubesewing1953 funny story,, I bought it at a local second hand shop, I hadn't been there in a year or so.. just happened to go there at the right time. The machine is in a table, (nothing great) laminate mid century modern type. but the shop owners were wanting to clear out the old furniture room where the sewing machine was, because they are starting a bakery there. the machine was marked down from $30.00, to $15.00.. I went to the lady and said I want to buy your sewing machine. I asked if they took a credit, or debit card, because all I had for cash in my wallet was $12.00. She said yes we take cards, but I will take the $12.00 cash.. I said OKKKKKKKK.. LOL..
Thank you for all of your videos. I watched your zeroing out video and followed the tests for left and right movement on a 401 that I am working on. Mine tested correctly for no movement on both left and right; however, the right needle position does not go over far enough. Zigzag is not wide enough. Pattern stitches look correct on left but skimpy on right. What do I need to adjust to fix?
I've never had that on a 401A, but I've only worked on a half dozen of them. I think I would check that the cmastack is timed and if not I would reset the timing (camstack, not hook) The last 20 minutes or so of this video is about the camstack timing: th-cam.com/video/aphiW06yp64/w-d-xo.html If that timing is OK then I'd try following the directions on page 141 of the Service Manual, centralizing the needle bar driving arm. If you need the Service Manual you can download it here for free: sewingdude.files.wordpress.com/2012/09/singer-401-service-manual1.pdf Of the top of my head those are what I'd look at first.
I went through steps, again, for bight settings test, and reviewed your video for timing cam stack. Everything appeared to be correctly set. I did download and reviewed service manual. Someone in a Facebook group said it was gummed up and to use hair dryer and more oil. I did resort to hair dryer, oil, and manipulated by force moving needle bar to right. I was finally able to get it all the way to the right but it would not freely go back to that full right position without forceful assistance. After more oil and continually moving red lever from center, left, then right and more heat, it now appears to perform correctly. I did play with the right screw for bight stop but that made no difference so I set it back to where it was. So, old gummy oils was the enemy! Thank you for your helpful videos. Do you have a video that could help me with a Singer model 360? It needed a lot of oil. Got it sewing straight stitch but will not sew at all in right needle position and zigzag does not pick up on right swing. Thanks for any additional advice.
I'm glad it has improved. I thought you had already cleaned the machine like in my videos. Cleaning a machine clears up many of those types of problems. Adding oil and heat can get things moving again, but where does all that oil end up? I'm not familiar with the 360 model. It's a little to "new" for me. I don't have a service guide and could not find one. You can download the original instruction manual from Singer for free: www.singer.com/search/support?title=360
Thank you so much just received machine from aunt... pretty sure it has been used for at least as old as I am. All cleaned and unfrozen now to see if it will work.🤞
You're welcome, Rachel. These models were made in the very late 1950s to the very early 1960s. Some of the last "all-metal" machines with all-steel gear drives and no belts. Good luck going forward with your wonderful gift.
Hello. Thank you for the videos you make! Thanks to you i have successfully done some service on several singer machines. Do you have experience with the Singer 5932 t? Someone else was using it and “broke” it. I was able to adjust the timing, and then the machine once again captured the bobbin thread! So i thought i had fixed it. But noticed the top thread was snagging on the bobbin case. On closer examination, it was obvious that the bobbin was missing the top edge above the screw, so it was snagging the thread, ordered a new bobbin case and installed it. Now at last was able to make stitches! But the machine made strange noises and stitches were not neat, but varied in stitch length, and the top thread was bunching up underneath. I have tried adjusting the tension, but something else must be wrong. Do you have any suggestions before i just chuck it in the dumpster?
Model 5932 is in a group of machines made outside the USA in the late '80s to the early 90s, maybe in Taiwan, South America or both places. They are mostly plastic. They have 4 or 5 plastic gears on the bottom of the machine that are internationally known to break, crack and crumble with age. There is a belt from the upper arm to the bottom that runs all those gears/shafts down below to turn the hook and move the feed dog. Those strange noises may very well be one or more of those gears. The poor stitching is because the hook is rotating erratically and the uneven stitch length is because the feed dog is lifting and pulling in a hit-or-miss way. You can probably buy gears. You may even be able to find a video about changing them, or a Service Manual for sale somewhere online. It's up to you if you want to spend the $$ and time to find a way to replace them. With all-new gears and if the drive belt is good, the machine would run another 10 years I'd say. This machine group was known as the 5-6-8-10-12-16-22 stitch pattern machines. Basically, the same parts for a few years and models with a few more pattern discs added to the cam stack so they could sew a couple more patterns. I believe they started out as Models 4552 and 4622 and went on to become 5932, 7028, 9005, 9008, 9010, and maybe a couple more. It is hard to find documents for some of them, but you can still download a free Instruction Manual from Singer at this link: www.singer.com/search/support?title=5932 Thanks for watching my channel, Mary, and best of luck to you.
I need to find the Zigzag presser for for my Singer 401A any ideas on where to get the right one? I can't use the zigzag function for any of the stitches without it and it's not the same foot as my other Singer 418, I think this one is slanted a little bit...All ideas welcome Sandy
Singer model 401A is a Slant Needle machine and uses slant shank presser feet. What we call the Zigzag foot is the General Purpose Presser Foot part no. 172075 www.sewingpartsonline.com/search.html?keywords=%23172075 The other Zigzag foot is called the Special Purpose Presser Foot used for Satin Stitch and Embroidery and button Hole stitch. Singer Part No. 163483 www.ebay.com/itm/402823975319?chn=ps&mkevt=1&mkcid=28 You are correct that the low shank feet for model 418 will not work on your 401A
Hi Andy, I appreciate your informative and helpful videos. I have a 500A and the driving arm on my machine does not move side to side for zig zag, although it does move forward and backward when adjusting the stitch width lever, so my machine only does straight stitching right now. Can the stop plates be my problem?
I don't think so. Setting the dials for wide ZZ stitching, B-L-5 and turning the handwheel you should see the followers on the camstack pushing the paddle of the driving arm and the vibrating bracket moving the needle bar left to right. If you are not getting needle bar swing then try oiling the vibrating bracket as shown on page 94 of the instruction manual. In the picture of the nose it is the oil drop on the top left, those two spots on the VB. After oiling well you can exercise the bracket by pushing it towards the motor end of the machine and the spring should bring it back. If you need the manual go here: www.singer.com/search/support?title=500 If lack of oil was not the problem let me know. Good Luck.
Hi Andy. Thank you so much for this tutorial. I did not understand what the service manual said on this topic and why one would do this. Yes, zigzag width setting makes sense to me. I understand now after seeing your video what this adjustment does. My machine did not need any adjustments in this area, but if I had to do it, I could, and my fear level of "zeroing out" my machine dropped to zero. Thanks for the bonus material on moving the selector knobs through the range of possibilities when changing. One thing I do not like about the 401 is having to go from setting AK to BL for getting to zigzag from straight stitch. It's tedious.
Welcome, Carol. It is seldom I've ever had to correct these stops plates. Usually only if someone before me has played with them. You absolutely could make this adjustment in the future if needed on a machine you picked up. I also agreed about the AK to BL just to get a normal ZZ stitch. On the 403A and most machines you just move the bight (Zigzag lever, haha) to the right and away you sew. The machine is very well made, as were all the Singers from this time, but man, there are a lot of parts to oil, adjust and maintain, IMHO. Thanks for watching it. Take Care.
@@andytubesewing1953 Actually, I've found that if you have the setting at BL, and move the red selector to 1 - gives you a straight stitch. Much more simple than having to go to AK3.
@@scrapmail3561 OK, that "actually" makes sense if you are already in BL mode. B puts the needle in center position and L is a Primary Pattern (ZigZag) and BL is meant to have the Red Lever set from 2 thru 5. Setting it at 1 would prevent ZZ. That seems like a nice shortcut if you are sewing ZZ and need a straight stitch. Thanks for sharing.
Hi Andy ..I replaced the Gears on the underneath of a Singer 552 , it is now doing the Zig Zag needle movement when the needle is in the down position ... can you give me any help ...Thank you ..Fintan in Ireland
I'm not familiar with a Singer Model 552 so I looked online. It is an Industrial Machine, not a domestic one. Is that what you have? I don't show it even has a zigzag function or gears on the bottom for that matter. It was not for sale in the US if it is a domestic (home) sewing machine. Any chance you have the model number wrong? Maybe it is the euro version of the USA 513, 514, 518, 533, or 538? Post a video on your TH-cam channel or give a link to pictures maybe.
Thank you for your videos. My Stitch width selector stopped working a few weeks ago, and I cannot figure out what happened. I have opened up the machine, and moving the red level turns the amplitude stop bracket as normal. The needle bar driving arm shifts forward and back as I move the red lever side to side. BUT the Zigzag stitch remains at full width no matter what position the red lever is in. Also my straight stitch needle position is stuck on the far right position and again moving the red lever does not change the position. Any help in what figuring out what happened would be greatly appreciated.
A lot of moving parts involved there. You did a good job of describing the problem but it's hard to diagnose the cause without having hands on the machine. A reminder that on model 401A (500A) the position of the two dials on the front controls much of the ZZ function. Be sure they are set to normal ZigZag. The width/red lever and dial must be in a certain position when placing and removing a top hat cam. I have seen parts out of position and bent b/c those settings were not done before placing or removing a cam. You can download free copies of the Instruction Manual AND even the Service Manual from the sewing dude on this page: sewingdude.wordpress.com/category/free-manuals/ I don't know how many of my videos you watched but here is the 401A Playlist: th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKLiDl9yFTP6mJgQmz5lj4NO.html Here is the 403A Playlist: th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKKyqvdDRwS-9MfLuwSNJTcg.html Sometimes setting the machine to straight stitch and doing a complete, proper oiling, and running the machine for 5 minutes can cure a few odd problems. Be sure the Needle Bar Vibrating Bracket is oiled properly. Since the machine has two lifters and followers you can compare them to see if a follower slipped down and got stuck against another part. I wish I could just tell you to do this or that or set the thingamajig like this or the whirlybob like that. Sorry.
@@andytubesewing1953 Thanks for the quick reply. I have the Singer Model 600, so a little newer but built similar enough to the 400 and 500 to get an idea what I am looking at. Upon further testing I found I cannot get the machine into the I or J setting on the stitch selector. not sure if that offers any more insight. I will say that I did not know the needle had to be in a specific position to change stitches and wonder if I bent/broke something when I last switched it from the B Q stitch position back to straight stitch. I typically only use the straight stitch or ZZ but decided to get adventurous and try a new stitch.
@@andytubesewing1953 Well, I figured out the problem. The back follower is two slots higher in the Index Pin than it should be in comparison with the stitch selector. So when the stitch sector is on setting A, the follower is in the third slot on the Index Pin. How do I reset the follower into the correct slot position?
@@lauraanderson5864 If you have not fixed it yet the first thing I do is try to gently pry the follower from the lifter/index pin and then move it to the correct slot. Chances are they were forced a little and skipped to where you found them, often due to lack of oil. I don't work on Auto Reel or Touch n Sew models ( don't care for them) but your 600 has a cam stack that can be removed and maybe allow for the follower to be reset. You must put the levers to A + K before removal though. There will also be Arm Stops for the front and rear follower and you may be able to loosen a nut or set screw to reset the follower and then re-tighten. You can buy a copy of the Service Manual for model 600/603 for $9 here: manualsoncd.com/product/singer-600-603-sewing-machine-service-manual/ In the list of videos I gave you before are videos for the cam stack, lifters, followers, and index pins. The videos are not on model 600 but most of the parts look the same in the parts manuals. Again, I would just gently pry the follower and drop it into the correct. Oiling all the parts as shown in the manual first, and a couple drops on the index pin/follower/lifter before trying to move them. You can also warm up the parts with a hair dryer before oiling.
Hello Andy from Norway I have learned a lot watching your videos(perhaps not all of them). I have a 401g and my red lever is a problem to me. It will not move to 1 and 2, only 3 to 5. I have opened the top, the cam stack is out, I have oiled it, heatend it with my hairdryer. You have probably made a video about this before. Can you please direct me to the right "episode"? I have learned so much from you and love to use my Singers 28, 201 and 401. Thank you for all you do!
Hi, Anne. Sometimes you just need a good oiling. Moving that lever can also move needle bar driving arm to make the vibrating bracket swing the needle. If the bracket is stuck from old, dried up oil it won't swing out. (there is a spring to help it swing in) If needed you can download a FREE copy of the Instruction Manual from Singer at this link: www.singer.com/search/support?title=401 Follow the oiling instructions, especially for the nose end area and see if that helps. Here is my playlist for my recent 401A videos. Take a look and see if they can help you out. th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKLiDl9yFTP6mJgQmz5lj4NO.html If still having problems this playlist for model 403A includes a video for the vibrating bracket that makes the needle swing in Zigzag. th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKKyqvdDRwS-9MfLuwSNJTcg.html It can be very helpful to have a copy of the Service Manual. I use them frequently. You can download a FREE copy of the 401A Service Manual at this Link: sewingdude.files.wordpress.com/2012/09/singer-401-service-manual1.pdf (it is rare to find a free service manual) It is 45 pages of adjust, remove and replace instructions with diagrams and step-by-step instructions. I find that on a vintage machine that's been in storage a good oiling with fix 80% of things like you experience, so unless you will be dismantling most of the parts I would start with a good oiling. BTW, I have had to soak some parts in WD40 for 24 hours before I could get them to move or take them off. Best of luck, and thanks for watching my channel.
Also, you are talking about the bight amplitude and pattern selector below the cam stack, so look for something down low that is blocking movement, like a fallen screw. Page 159 of the service manual shows how to remove the whole bight amplitude and pattern selector for cleaning and look underneath it (great time to regrease the pinion gear of the arm shaft) since you already have the cam stack out now is the time to pull out the selector. Lykke til
Hi Andy. Would this method work on a 403a, with the exception of no Selector knob. With my Stich Width Lever on "S", I have a very slight movement of the needle bar driving arm or zig zag at needle. Also, the Stitch Width lever only moves to 4-1/2, not 5. Appreciate your suggestion
The method for doing this on Model 403A is similar, but a little different. The problem was that the Service Manual for Model 401A did not specify the procedure for model 403A. With the next generation of Slant Needle machines, the 500A & 503A Rocketeers, Singer provided a separate set of instructions for some of the adjustments on Model 503A and they can be used to adjust Model 403A. Fortunately the Service Manual for 500A & 503A can be downloaded for FREE at this link: sewingdude.files.wordpress.com/2012/09/singer-500-service-manual.pdf When you get a copy please look on page 39 for the instructions you need. There are a handful of adjustments that pertain to model 503A and again, they can me used on your 403A. Good Luck, and thanks for watching my channel.
Hi again Andy. Figured it out as I watched your 403 needle bar driving arm video, you mentioned the positioning lever locks in place when the Stitch Width lever is in "S" position, mine wasn't locking because the Stitch Width lever wasn't installed correctly after I cleaned the machine, love it when a plan comes together. Thx for all you work making these videos that help so many of us amateurs.
I thought I did exactly what you suggested however I’ve made it worse. My red lever will only move over to 4. First time it stopped, I loosened the screw and pushed the little plate towards the cam and as I pushed the red lever moved from 5 to 4. Now there is no vibration except at 3 at D K ??
I did not have that experience as you saw in the video. Perhaps something else is also out of adjustment? Maybe my presentation is not clear? Here is a link to where you can download FREE copies of both the 401A and 500A service manuals. They both cover this adjustment. I remember on the 401A manual it starts on page 140. sewingdude.wordpress.com/category/free-manuals/ Maybe with access to the manual, it will help. The manual also covers every other adjustment on the machine.
@@andytubesewing1953 This is the first time, I've ever taken the top off the machine! very interesting to look at! Thank you, Andy, I loosened the screw again and pushed the red lever to five and tightened the screw (just so I could move the red lever. I hope this wasn't terribly wrong to do.) Anyway...there is little vibration at 3 and none after that. The problem I have is the needle goes all the way to the left (zig) but then stops in the middle (zag)...it will not go all the way to the right for a wider stitch. I have printed out the manual and will try to follow the instructions. Your presentation(s) are wonderful. I'm certain you are correct about something else being out of adjustment. When I set at B L for zigzag, I can rotate the wheel easily for about two rotations and then it seems to "rub" a little and is hard to turn the wheel...then it freeze up again for another couple of rotations...repeats this pattern. I love watching your videos...just afraid to make things worse. Wouldn't want to loose my ability to sew. I love this machine!
@@patchase4773 This model and some other slant needle ZZ machines have a Needle Bar Driving Arm (pg 159 of manual) When the follower travels along with the cam stack disc or special disc it pushes the NBDA to make the Needle Bar Vibrating Bracket (pg 156) swing the needle. There is a spring on the NBDA to make the Needle Bar swing Back. I have found if the spring is catching on something, or the NBVB is dirty or lacking oil, then the spring can not pull the NB the other way. Viewers have commented about their machine "will zig but it won't zag" and have found the spring blocked or the NBVB lacking oil, etc. Of course, the whole machine should be clean and oiled for all those moving parts to work together properly. Your machine is about 60 years old now and when was it last serviced (if ever)? Some repair shops these days just use an air compressor to blow out lint, put gobs of oil & grease everywhere (on top of the 40-year-old gobs of grease), and call it "Serviced" I do have some videos about the 401A that can also be used for the 500A. They cover the lifters and followers. I made those b/c it seems every slant-o-Matic or Rocketeer I found was dirty, sticky, and not functioning completely. th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKLiDl9yFTP6mJgQmz5lj4NO.html I also have videos for sister machine 403A that cover the NBDA and NBVB and the mechanics are the same or very similar to your machine. th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKKyqvdDRwS-9MfLuwSNJTcg.html Sometimes watching some of those videos (I use 2X speed) can show you how the part is supposed to work. You don't have to take it all apart as I do, but just see if it is doing what it is supposed to do. As for binding, it can be the same thing. A dirty cam stack gear and pinion gear on the main arm shaft, lack of oil on the take-up lever system, recently a viewer found about 30 yeards of thread wrapped around under the hook. She spent hours cleaning the foot controller and motor due to low speed, and finally looked under the machine and wondered what that red "stuff" was under the hook shaft. There are some troubleshooting guides towards the end of the Service Manual, and some discuss the binding of the machine and what may cause it.
Hi Andy. My zigzag on my new to me 500 does not go all the way to the right. I had hoped this would clear that up. But I may be utterly misunderstanding. If I were to assign letters across my zigzag plate, from right to left, ABCDEF, my zig zag at full width setting goes from A-E only. When the dial is a little past 4, the DK setting we used here stops all moving, because the needle is not homing all the way to the right in that setting. Is there a way to get that needle farther to the right? I suspect that this is the cause of my very uneven tension on zigzag stitches too. The leftward swing is farther from the center, and pulleys the thread much tighter.
Sorry for the delay, Joe. I had to think about this one. I have something you can try, but no guarantee it will solve your problem. On page 34 of the SInger Service Manual for Models 500A & 503A are instructions for how to "Centralize the Needle Bar Driving Arm" The manual states you must do the ZERO OUT first, and you have, so I'm thinking this would be the next step. Give it a try and see. What? You don't have the Service Manual? No worries, you can download a free copy of it here; sewingdude.files.wordpress.com/2012/09/singer-500-service-manual.pdf That's about all I can think to do, Joe. I hope it gives you a way forward. Good Luck 👍
You asked this 4 days ago, and the answer is still no. I do not know of any Domestic (home) sewing machine that Singer made that can be modified to make a stitch that long. There are some INdustrial Machines that can make a 12mm ZigZag stitch but they still make a 6mm stitch. That 6mm is about 50% longer than a domestic machine www.allbrands.com/products/39613-ricoma-fy20u43-12mm-zigzag-and-6mm-straight-stitch
Hello, Dear friend! Am watching this new video right now, am at 04:10 mn ANNNND i think :-) that what i was looking for WILL surely be in THIS VERY V-D-OOOO !!! ;-)
I've learned a lot from your videos, but you missed it on this one. You can easily prove it to yourself by taking that machine that is perfectly adjusted. Set the red handle to the 4 position. Now loosen the screw that holds the red handle to the bracket. Loosen it up good and you will note that the handle will move freely. Set it to the 5 position and then tighten it. You will now see that when you move the red handle towards the 1 position that the driving arm will stop at about the 2 position. Now you can adjust the limit of the red handle by moving the stop that you showed, push it in and tighten the screw. Now you will see that you cannot move the red handle to the 1 position, because the limit adjustment is stopping it at the 2 position. And if you look at your adjustment in the other direction you will see that even when you get to 5 you will have movement in the driving arm. So the adjustment to make if the driving arm is stopping too soon, or not soon enough, is to loosen the screw that holds the red handle on. That red handle needs to be centered between the left and right sides by noting when the driving bar stops.
Thanks for watching my channel, Mark, and for leaving such a thoughtful and detailed comment.
I disagree with your statement “you missed it on this one.” I think this “ZERO-OUT” video is a good representation of how to Set the Bight Amplitude Stop Plates which Singer also called “To ZERO-OUT the Machine”. This adjustment is shown on page 140 of the SERVICE MANUAL for SINGER SWING-NEEDLE SEWING MACHINES, a 174-page manual covering models 206K, 306, 319 and 401. For anyone interested, you can download a free copy of a 45-page section of that manual that pertains to the Class 401 machines at this link; sewingdude.files.wordpress.com/2012/09/singer-401-service-manual1.pdf This is in PDF format.
If I am following your comment correctly, the adjustments you describe are for lining up the needle bar driving arm with the disc. This procedure is also in the Service Manual and is shown on page 141 under the heading “TO CENTRALIZE THE NEEDLE BAR DRIVING ARM WITH THE DISC SELECTOR ARM BRACKET FOLLOWERS”. So, my video and your comment seem to be describing two different adjustments and that is why I said I disagree that I “missed it”.
BTW, if you’d like to make a video about the adjustment please let me know and I will make special reference to it on my channel for viewers to find it. Thanks again, Mark, for your interest and participation with my channel. Take Care.
I have a problem machine. When width control (red levet) is set to 5, the right needle position. Needle bar does not go all the way to right. I performed your movement and dial settings to test for zero out. Machine passed both settings tests. What else do I need to do?
@@xyz12345457 thank you very much for your kind comment 🙏 you really lifted my spirits this evening and I appreciate it
Your videos are so wonderful! You speak clearly and give us time to absorb what you're saying, and you repeat things enough that we can really grasp the procedures. Many, many thanks!
Thanks for your interest in my channel and I appreciate your a nice comment. You made my evening
❤ I love your lessons and I think this one is just what I needed now and didn’t know it 😆❤ I can’t thank you enough! Best teacher ever.
Thanks for your kind comment, Paula. 🙏 Good luck and I appreciate you keeping the machine in service.
you're an amazing teacher and very much appreciated. so much to learn about the 500a thank you so much
Thank you! I appreciate your comment. For other viewers model 401A and 500A are about 95% the same mechanically so my 401A Playlist can be helpful for working with your 500A: th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKLiDl9yFTP6mJgQmz5lj4NO.html My 500A Playlist is short but has a few good tips: th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKIk6-t-zdVJKQVVAE6TjrE-.html My 21-videos Model 503A show working on many of the parts of the 500A: th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKJZaZn2zl3LsnV2d7UhrqvX.html
Thanks again, Janette, seeing you call me a teacher is very rewarding. Take care.
That was a very clear and informative explanation of a difficult subject. I've read many parts of different Singer manuals and it takes me a long time to get their meaning, not so with your excellent videos. I learn from your video and use the manual as a reference. I'm sure you have to work in the reverse order, read and learn from the manual and then develop your excellent videos.
Thanks
Thank you, Terry, and you are really perceptive. I learn best from something like a manual or technical paper. How I learned and self-taught during my career. So you are correct; I do read the manual and go over the procedure while looking at the machine, and then try to do a video that makes sense. I've been told many, many times that most people learn best by visual media, so TH-cam is a great place for people to learn. It really works for me in trying to help people get the idea of working on their machines and keeping them in service. Thanks for watching and a nice comment. Take Care.
Andy, your videos are great. Thanks.
Thank you very much, Dorothy ✨
Andy, thank you so much for your time and detailed replies! You are so very generous with your knowledge! 💖 Happy Valentine’s Day!! I’m going to look at all you have mentioned and def clean those cams!! I did have it serviced within the last year...and he did exactly what you said..it dripped for days after i got it back and and when I opened the top I saw lumps of grease on the gears...and charged me $125. I didn’t know the zigzag didn’t work back then just did straight stitch quilting. Started making bowls recently and need the zigzag! I look forward to repairing. Your machines just sparkle! That’s how I realized how dirty mine is. Yesterday I did look at the bottom...not too bad, but I want mine to sparkle too!! 🥰 also after over thirty years, I opened up my first machine. Was told it was a 66 from 1930! Take care...I’ll let you know how I make out when I get to it!!
I'm excited that you want to work on your own machine! You can do it, Pat, 👍and you'll find it rewarding. I've found that just cleaning and properly lubricating a machine can fix about 90% of odd stitching problems. It is rare for a machine like yours to break unless someone played around with the parts. They are so well made. If by chance a part did break or fell off, replacement vintage parts are still readily available on eBay. Ooo... a model 66, huh? Lucky you. I've only worked on one black Singer vintage machine, a model 99K. It turns out the 99K is a 3/4 sized version of model 66, and my restoration videos for my 99K could be applied to your 66. th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKIIUgkEujqHc9iNWN9NPW2Z.html So lucky you, owning two of the nicest machines Singer made. Enjoy, and take care. ✨
@@andytubesewing1953 I can't believe it....I think I grew WINGS because I just been flying around all afternoon!! My 401a ZIGs and it now ZAGs again!!! I have to admit I was overwhelmed and intimidated to do this completely on my own after days of watching different videos and losing sleep thinking about it. Finally, I asked a friend of mine (mechanic of older and antique autos) if he would watch a couple of the videos and be with me going through this process. It took us four hours yesterday and four more hours today...BUT we got it done!! It was such an emotional ride for me (mostly thinking I'd never get it right)...but in the end, I learned so much and feel so much more comfortable knowing what's under the lid!! :) It's not clean, as we focused on the problem issues first...didn't take everything apart - just sections we believed were suspicious. It turned out to be the NB!! On the third disassembling and cleaning the NB...(especially the inside piece) when assembled again, it finally gave way to a full swing from left to right!! I knew we had it when I heard the click, click, click going left to right to left (red lever on 5)...just like in your video. Prior to that, it had more of a squish, squish restriction...had to push back and forth only by manually pushing. I couldn't be more excited!! I'll love this machine for the rest of my days! Andy, you were so right....VERY satisfying!! My friend said...the last adjustment is always the key. HA HA So TRUE! Now one day soon, I'll get the supply list and can feel very comfortable taking things apart and making them SHINE again! Can't thank you enough for all your encouragement. You're the BEST!!
@@patchase4773 😀 I'm so glad you persisted and forged ahead into the unknown. With your determination and the help of your friend (now that is a true friend), you found the solution. 🏆 So happy for you, Pat. Now you know it is possible to work on and maintain that wonderful machine. Thanks for letting me along on the journey. You made my afternoon today. Really... I'm pretty good, but you and your friend are the best now. ✨Take care.
I think you are right. Never see a video on this subject. Really nice. I'm partial to the 401a, as a you kid I learned to sew on my mother's. Wasn't long before I had to get my own machine a 1590. Still have that one. I believe my sister has my mom's 401a. I think all an all the 400 series is pretty hard to beat for a mechanical. All of my foriegn machines of this era had plastic gears and cloth belts. Great smooth machines as long they don't break. Try to find parts for an old Adler
Wow. Thanks Andy.
thanks for watching and taking time to comment. I remember looking at a machine, maybe called a grasshopper, that was really interesting to me. When I looked inside I saw some kind of a cloth drive belt with metal cleats in it that was starting to fall apart. I asked the seller where I could find a replacement belt like that and he replied "now you know why I'm selling it". Lesson learned. I've never seen a 1590 or 91 in person. That potted motor looks great. Thanks for stopping by and take care.
i will follow all the instructions, to fix my machine hopefully! To answer your question: THERE'S NOT 1 SINGLE VIDEO in the 4 languages i understand a little that shows how to 'ZERO-OUT' these machine models (i can assure you) ... God Bless you for your talentS ! Take car you too.
you can do it. easy does it.
Very EAAAASY when we have a teacher called ANDY! :-)
@@andytubesewing1953 Since you say it !!! And as long as our teacher is called: ''ANDY'' ;-)
Another EXCELLENTLY done vid Andy.
thanks, and nice of you to say. Kind of a weird one to record and try to make sense of the procedure, but even my granddaughter says it's "OK Grandpa" (my toughest critic!) Thanks for watching.
amazing gonna try it on my machine
Thanks for watching. Enjoyed your comment and good luck
I just bought a 500A, couldn't resist the price... I need to watch your cam stack video. and any other videos pertaining to the 500A, or 401A... I bet you cover it in this video, (just started watching) when my inner knob is all the way down, the indicator is on (L) instead of (K). My 500A is pretty clean, I got everything moving pretty well, but need to get further into it. the inner knob (mechanical movements) is a bit sticky.. oh boy,, more videos to watch.. Thanks Andytube.
Congrats on your new Slant-O-Matic Rocketeer! My 401A Playlis covers most of the part systems on your 500A. th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKLiDl9yFTP6mJgQmz5lj4NO.html
Usually, once you clean everything the followers will line up. If not, there is a video to rest the height of the index pins that hold the followers. The Service Manual for the 500/503 covers all the adjustments, too! BTW, don't be surprised if you find a broken spring on the bobbin winder.
@@andytubesewing1953 Thank you for the playlist link.. my bobbin winder springs look good,, old tire, but the movements good and adjusted properly. the thread tension was messed up, puckered fabric, and the foot was a bit cock eyed, and the fabric pulled to one side.. there was lots of lint in the bobbin area.. but the machine overall is about a 9.8 or 9.9 out of 10.. really quite clean. but It needs to be really well cleaned..I have a lot to learn about the mechanics of the cam stack and knobs etc.. uh. Thanks again Andy. I know what I will be doing in my spare time..
@@connieworcester55 oh that's great news! I love a machine like that that's mechanically and cosmetically sound. I don't care about the dirt and grime that comes off and it's rewarding when you're finished. Have a good time. I'll be thinking of you
@@andytubesewing1953 funny story,, I bought it at a local second hand shop, I hadn't been there in a year or so.. just happened to go there at the right time. The machine is in a table, (nothing great) laminate mid century modern type. but the shop owners were wanting to clear out the old furniture room where the sewing machine was, because they are starting a bakery there. the machine was marked down from $30.00, to $15.00.. I went to the lady and said I want to buy your sewing machine. I asked if they took a credit, or debit card, because all I had for cash in my wallet was $12.00. She said yes we take cards, but I will take the $12.00 cash.. I said OKKKKKKKK.. LOL..
Thank you for all of your videos. I watched your zeroing out video and followed the tests for left and right movement on a 401 that I am working on. Mine tested correctly for no movement on both left and right; however, the right needle position does not go over far enough. Zigzag is not wide enough. Pattern stitches look correct on left but skimpy on right. What do I need to adjust to fix?
I've never had that on a 401A, but I've only worked on a half dozen of them. I think I would check that the cmastack is timed and if not I would reset the timing (camstack, not hook) The last 20 minutes or so of this video is about the camstack timing: th-cam.com/video/aphiW06yp64/w-d-xo.html If that timing is OK then I'd try following the directions on page 141 of the Service Manual, centralizing the needle bar driving arm. If you need the Service Manual you can download it here for free:
sewingdude.files.wordpress.com/2012/09/singer-401-service-manual1.pdf
Of the top of my head those are what I'd look at first.
I went through steps, again, for bight settings test, and reviewed your video for timing cam stack. Everything appeared to be correctly set. I did download and reviewed service manual. Someone in a Facebook group said it was gummed up and to use hair dryer and more oil. I did resort to hair dryer, oil, and manipulated by force moving needle bar to right. I was finally able to get it all the way to the right but it would not freely go back to that full right position without forceful assistance. After more oil and continually moving red lever from center, left, then right and more heat, it now appears to perform correctly. I did play with the right screw for bight stop but that made no difference so I set it back to where it was. So, old gummy oils was the enemy! Thank you for your helpful videos.
Do you have a video that could help me with a Singer model 360? It needed a lot of oil. Got it sewing straight stitch but will not sew at all in right needle position and zigzag does not pick up on right swing.
Thanks for any additional advice.
I'm glad it has improved. I thought you had already cleaned the machine like in my videos. Cleaning a machine clears up many of those types of problems. Adding oil and heat can get things moving again, but where does all that oil end up?
I'm not familiar with the 360 model. It's a little to "new" for me. I don't have a service guide and could not find one. You can download the original instruction manual from Singer for free: www.singer.com/search/support?title=360
Thank you so much just received machine from aunt... pretty sure it has been used for at least as old as I am. All cleaned and unfrozen now to see if it will work.🤞
You're welcome, Rachel. These models were made in the very late 1950s to the very early 1960s. Some of the last "all-metal" machines with all-steel gear drives and no belts. Good luck going forward with your wonderful gift.
Awesome. Exactly what I needed. Thank you.
Thanks for watching my channel and taking the time to comment. 🙏
Hello. Thank you for the videos you make! Thanks to you i have successfully done some service on several singer machines. Do you have experience with the Singer 5932 t? Someone else was using it and “broke” it. I was able to adjust the timing, and then the machine once again captured the bobbin thread! So i thought i had fixed it. But noticed the top thread was snagging on the bobbin case. On closer examination, it was obvious that the bobbin was missing the top edge above the screw, so it was snagging the thread, ordered a new bobbin case and installed it. Now at last was able to make stitches! But the machine made strange noises and stitches were not neat, but varied in stitch length, and the top thread was bunching up underneath. I have tried adjusting the tension, but something else must be wrong. Do you have any suggestions before i just chuck it in the dumpster?
Model 5932 is in a group of machines made outside the USA in the late '80s to the early 90s, maybe in Taiwan, South America or both places. They are mostly plastic. They have 4 or 5 plastic gears on the bottom of the machine that are internationally known to break, crack and crumble with age. There is a belt from the upper arm to the bottom that runs all those gears/shafts down below to turn the hook and move the feed dog. Those strange noises may very well be one or more of those gears. The poor stitching is because the hook is rotating erratically and the uneven stitch length is because the feed dog is lifting and pulling in a hit-or-miss way. You can probably buy gears. You may even be able to find a video about changing them, or a Service Manual for sale somewhere online. It's up to you if you want to spend the $$ and time to find a way to replace them. With all-new gears and if the drive belt is good, the machine would run another 10 years I'd say. This machine group was known as the 5-6-8-10-12-16-22 stitch pattern machines. Basically, the same parts for a few years and models with a few more pattern discs added to the cam stack so they could sew a couple more patterns. I believe they started out as Models 4552 and 4622 and went on to become 5932, 7028, 9005, 9008, 9010, and maybe a couple more. It is hard to find documents for some of them, but you can still download a free Instruction Manual from Singer at this link: www.singer.com/search/support?title=5932
Thanks for watching my channel, Mary, and best of luck to you.
Andy Tube thank you for your quick reply. I think i will chalk it up to a good learning experience!
@@marybalmer8001 The right attitude, Mary. Good luck in the future. Take Care.
I need to find the Zigzag presser for for my Singer 401A any ideas on where to get the right one? I can't use the zigzag function for any of the stitches without it and it's not the same foot as my other Singer 418, I think this one is slanted a little bit...All ideas welcome Sandy
Singer model 401A is a Slant Needle machine and uses slant shank presser feet. What we call the Zigzag foot is the General Purpose Presser Foot part no. 172075 www.sewingpartsonline.com/search.html?keywords=%23172075
The other Zigzag foot is called the Special Purpose Presser Foot used for Satin Stitch and Embroidery and button Hole stitch.
Singer Part No. 163483 www.ebay.com/itm/402823975319?chn=ps&mkevt=1&mkcid=28
You are correct that the low shank feet for model 418 will not work on your 401A
Hi Andy, I appreciate your informative and helpful videos. I have a 500A and the driving arm on my machine does not move side to side for zig zag, although it does move forward and backward when adjusting the stitch width lever, so my machine only does straight stitching right now. Can the stop plates be my problem?
I don't think so. Setting the dials for wide ZZ stitching, B-L-5 and turning the handwheel you should see the followers on the camstack pushing the paddle of the driving arm and the vibrating bracket moving the needle bar left to right. If you are not getting needle bar swing then try oiling the vibrating bracket as shown on page 94 of the instruction manual. In the picture of the nose it is the oil drop on the top left, those two spots on the VB. After oiling well you can exercise the bracket by pushing it towards the motor end of the machine and the spring should bring it back. If you need the manual go here: www.singer.com/search/support?title=500
If lack of oil was not the problem let me know. Good Luck.
Hi Andy. Thank you so much for this tutorial. I did not understand what the service manual said on this topic and why one would do this. Yes, zigzag width setting makes sense to me. I understand now after seeing your video what this adjustment does. My machine did not need any adjustments in this area, but if I had to do it, I could, and my fear level of "zeroing out" my machine dropped to zero. Thanks for the bonus material on moving the selector knobs through the range of possibilities when changing. One thing I do not like about the 401 is having to go from setting AK to BL for getting to zigzag from straight stitch. It's tedious.
Welcome, Carol. It is seldom I've ever had to correct these stops plates. Usually only if someone before me has played with them. You absolutely could make this adjustment in the future if needed on a machine you picked up. I also agreed about the AK to BL just to get a normal ZZ stitch. On the 403A and most machines you just move the bight (Zigzag lever, haha) to the right and away you sew. The machine is very well made, as were all the Singers from this time, but man, there are a lot of parts to oil, adjust and maintain, IMHO. Thanks for watching it. Take Care.
@@andytubesewing1953 Actually, I've found that if you have the setting at BL, and move the red selector to 1 - gives you a straight stitch. Much more simple than having to go to AK3.
@@scrapmail3561 OK, that "actually" makes sense if you are already in BL mode. B puts the needle in center position and L is a Primary Pattern (ZigZag) and BL is meant to have the Red Lever set from 2 thru 5. Setting it at 1 would prevent ZZ. That seems like a nice shortcut if you are sewing ZZ and need a straight stitch. Thanks for sharing.
Hi Andy ..I replaced the Gears on the underneath of a Singer 552 , it is now doing the Zig Zag needle movement when the needle is in the down position ... can you give me any help ...Thank you ..Fintan in Ireland
I'm not familiar with a Singer Model 552 so I looked online. It is an Industrial Machine, not a domestic one. Is that what you have? I don't show it even has a zigzag function or gears on the bottom for that matter. It was not for sale in the US if it is a domestic (home) sewing machine. Any chance you have the model number wrong? Maybe it is the euro version of the USA 513, 514, 518, 533, or 538? Post a video on your TH-cam channel or give a link to pictures maybe.
Thank you for your videos. My Stitch width selector stopped working a few weeks ago, and I cannot figure out what happened. I have opened up the machine, and moving the red level turns the amplitude stop bracket as normal. The needle bar driving arm shifts forward and back as I move the red lever side to side. BUT the Zigzag stitch remains at full width no matter what position the red lever is in. Also my straight stitch needle position is stuck on the far right position and again moving the red lever does not change the position. Any help in what figuring out what happened would be greatly appreciated.
A lot of moving parts involved there. You did a good job of describing the problem but it's hard to diagnose the cause without having hands on the machine.
A reminder that on model 401A (500A) the position of the two dials on the front controls much of the ZZ function. Be sure they are set to normal ZigZag. The width/red lever and dial must be in a certain position when placing and removing a top hat cam. I have seen parts out of position and bent b/c those settings were not done before placing or removing a cam.
You can download free copies of the Instruction Manual AND even the Service Manual from the sewing dude on this page:
sewingdude.wordpress.com/category/free-manuals/
I don't know how many of my videos you watched but here is the 401A Playlist: th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKLiDl9yFTP6mJgQmz5lj4NO.html Here is the 403A Playlist:
th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKKyqvdDRwS-9MfLuwSNJTcg.html
Sometimes setting the machine to straight stitch and doing a complete, proper oiling, and running the machine for 5 minutes can cure a few odd problems. Be sure the Needle Bar Vibrating Bracket is oiled properly.
Since the machine has two lifters and followers you can compare them to see if a follower slipped down and got stuck against another part. I wish I could just tell you to do this or that or set the thingamajig like this or the whirlybob like that. Sorry.
@@andytubesewing1953 Thanks for the quick reply. I have the Singer Model 600, so a little newer but built similar enough to the 400 and 500 to get an idea what I am looking at. Upon further testing I found I cannot get the machine into the I or J setting on the stitch selector. not sure if that offers any more insight.
I will say that I did not know the needle had to be in a specific position to change stitches and wonder if I bent/broke something when I last switched it from the B Q stitch position back to straight stitch. I typically only use the straight stitch or ZZ but decided to get adventurous and try a new stitch.
@@andytubesewing1953 Well, I figured out the problem. The back follower is two slots higher in the Index Pin than it should be in comparison with the stitch selector. So when the stitch sector is on setting A, the follower is in the third slot on the Index Pin. How do I reset the follower into the correct slot position?
@@lauraanderson5864 If you have not fixed it yet the first thing I do is try to gently pry the follower from the lifter/index pin and then move it to the correct slot. Chances are they were forced a little and skipped to where you found them, often due to lack of oil.
I don't work on Auto Reel or Touch n Sew models ( don't care for them) but your 600 has a cam stack that can be removed and maybe allow for the follower to be reset. You must put the levers to A + K before removal though.
There will also be Arm Stops for the front and rear follower and you may be able to loosen a nut or set screw to reset the follower and then re-tighten.
You can buy a copy of the Service Manual for model 600/603 for $9 here: manualsoncd.com/product/singer-600-603-sewing-machine-service-manual/
In the list of videos I gave you before are videos for the cam stack, lifters, followers, and index pins. The videos are not on model 600 but most of the parts look the same in the parts manuals.
Again, I would just gently pry the follower and drop it into the correct. Oiling all the parts as shown in the manual first, and a couple drops on the index pin/follower/lifter before trying to move them. You can also warm up the parts with a hair dryer before oiling.
Hello Andy from Norway
I have learned a lot watching your videos(perhaps not all of them). I have a 401g and my red lever is a problem to me. It will not move to 1 and 2, only 3 to 5. I have opened the top, the cam stack is out, I have oiled it, heatend it with my hairdryer. You have probably made a video about this before. Can you please direct me to the right "episode"? I have learned so much from you and love to use my Singers 28, 201 and 401. Thank you for all you do!
Hi, Anne. Sometimes you just need a good oiling. Moving that lever can also move needle bar driving arm to make the vibrating bracket swing the needle. If the bracket is stuck from old, dried up oil it won't swing out. (there is a spring to help it swing in)
If needed you can download a FREE copy of the Instruction Manual from Singer at this link: www.singer.com/search/support?title=401
Follow the oiling instructions, especially for the nose end area and see if that helps.
Here is my playlist for my recent 401A videos. Take a look and see if they can help you out. th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKLiDl9yFTP6mJgQmz5lj4NO.html
If still having problems this playlist for model 403A includes a video for the vibrating bracket that makes the needle swing in Zigzag.
th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKKyqvdDRwS-9MfLuwSNJTcg.html
It can be very helpful to have a copy of the Service Manual. I use them frequently. You can download a FREE copy of the 401A Service Manual at this Link:
sewingdude.files.wordpress.com/2012/09/singer-401-service-manual1.pdf (it is rare to find a free service manual)
It is 45 pages of adjust, remove and replace instructions with diagrams and step-by-step instructions.
I find that on a vintage machine that's been in storage a good oiling with fix 80% of things like you experience, so unless you will be dismantling most of the parts I would start with a good oiling. BTW, I have had to soak some parts in WD40 for 24 hours before I could get them to move or take them off. Best of luck, and thanks for watching my channel.
Also, you are talking about the bight amplitude and pattern selector below the cam stack, so look for something down low that is blocking movement, like a fallen screw. Page 159 of the service manual shows how to remove the whole bight amplitude and pattern selector for cleaning and look underneath it (great time to regrease the pinion gear of the arm shaft) since you already have the cam stack out now is the time to pull out the selector. Lykke til
@@andytubesewing1953 Thank you:) I will read the manual. And if I don´t make it, I might ask again. I think your videos are very helpfull!
@@annekristinelindstad6292 Sure, you know where I am so don't be a stranger. Good Luck.
Hi Andy. Would this method work on a 403a, with the exception of no Selector knob. With my Stich Width Lever on "S", I have a very slight movement of the needle bar driving arm or zig zag at needle. Also, the Stitch Width lever only moves to 4-1/2, not 5. Appreciate your suggestion
The method for doing this on Model 403A is similar, but a little different. The problem was that the Service Manual for Model 401A did not specify the procedure for model 403A. With the next generation of Slant Needle machines, the 500A & 503A Rocketeers, Singer provided a separate set of instructions for some of the adjustments on Model 503A and they can be used to adjust Model 403A. Fortunately the Service Manual for 500A & 503A can be downloaded for FREE at this link: sewingdude.files.wordpress.com/2012/09/singer-500-service-manual.pdf
When you get a copy please look on page 39 for the instructions you need.
There are a handful of adjustments that pertain to model 503A and again, they can me used on your 403A. Good Luck, and thanks for watching my channel.
Hi again Andy. Figured it out as I watched your 403 needle bar driving arm video, you mentioned the positioning lever locks in place when the Stitch Width lever is in "S" position, mine wasn't locking because the Stitch Width lever wasn't installed correctly after I cleaned the machine, love it when a plan comes together. Thx for all you work making these videos that help so many of us amateurs.
Excellent as always!!
thanks very much Brad I appreciate your comment
Very good information!
Thank you very much.
I thought I did exactly what you suggested however I’ve made it worse. My red lever will only move over to 4. First time it stopped, I loosened the screw and pushed the little plate towards the cam and as I pushed the red lever moved from 5 to 4. Now there is no vibration except at 3 at D K ??
I did not have that experience as you saw in the video. Perhaps something else is also out of adjustment? Maybe my presentation is not clear? Here is a link to where you can download FREE copies of both the 401A and 500A service manuals. They both cover this adjustment. I remember on the 401A manual it starts on page 140. sewingdude.wordpress.com/category/free-manuals/
Maybe with access to the manual, it will help. The manual also covers every other adjustment on the machine.
@@andytubesewing1953 This is the first time, I've ever taken the top off the machine! very interesting to look at! Thank you, Andy, I loosened the screw again and pushed the red lever to five and tightened the screw (just so I could move the red lever. I hope this wasn't terribly wrong to do.) Anyway...there is little vibration at 3 and none after that. The problem I have is the needle goes all the way to the left (zig) but then stops in the middle (zag)...it will not go all the way to the right for a wider stitch. I have printed out the manual and will try to follow the instructions. Your presentation(s) are wonderful. I'm certain you are correct about something else being out of adjustment. When I set at B L for zigzag, I can rotate the wheel easily for about two rotations and then it seems to "rub" a little and is hard to turn the wheel...then it freeze up again for another couple of rotations...repeats this pattern. I love watching your videos...just afraid to make things worse. Wouldn't want to loose my ability to sew. I love this machine!
@@patchase4773 This model and some other slant needle ZZ machines have a Needle Bar Driving Arm (pg 159 of manual) When the follower travels along with the cam stack disc or special disc it pushes the NBDA to make the Needle Bar Vibrating Bracket (pg 156) swing the needle. There is a spring on the NBDA to make the Needle Bar swing Back. I have found if the spring is catching on something, or the NBVB is dirty or lacking oil, then the spring can not pull the NB the other way. Viewers have commented about their machine "will zig but it won't zag" and have found the spring blocked or the NBVB lacking oil, etc. Of course, the whole machine should be clean and oiled for all those moving parts to work together properly. Your machine is about 60 years old now and when was it last serviced (if ever)? Some repair shops these days just use an air compressor to blow out lint, put gobs of oil & grease everywhere (on top of the 40-year-old gobs of grease), and call it "Serviced" I do have some videos about the 401A that can also be used for the 500A. They cover the lifters and followers. I made those b/c it seems every slant-o-Matic or Rocketeer I found was dirty, sticky, and not functioning completely. th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKLiDl9yFTP6mJgQmz5lj4NO.html I also have videos for sister machine 403A that cover the NBDA and NBVB and the mechanics are the same or very similar to your machine. th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKKyqvdDRwS-9MfLuwSNJTcg.html Sometimes watching some of those videos (I use 2X speed) can show you how the part is supposed to work. You don't have to take it all apart as I do, but just see if it is doing what it is supposed to do. As for binding, it can be the same thing. A dirty cam stack gear and pinion gear on the main arm shaft, lack of oil on the take-up lever system, recently a viewer found about 30 yeards of thread wrapped around under the hook. She spent hours cleaning the foot controller and motor due to low speed, and finally looked under the machine and wondered what that red "stuff" was under the hook shaft. There are some troubleshooting guides towards the end of the Service Manual, and some discuss the binding of the machine and what may cause it.
Hi Andy.
My zigzag on my new to me 500 does not go all the way to the right. I had hoped this would clear that up. But I may be utterly misunderstanding.
If I were to assign letters across my zigzag plate, from right to left, ABCDEF, my zig zag at full width setting goes from A-E only.
When the dial is a little past 4, the DK setting we used here stops all moving, because the needle is not homing all the way to the right in that setting.
Is there a way to get that needle farther to the right? I suspect that this is the cause of my very uneven tension on zigzag stitches too. The leftward swing is farther from the center, and pulleys the thread much tighter.
Sorry for the delay, Joe. I had to think about this one. I have something you can try, but no guarantee it will solve your problem. On page 34 of the SInger Service Manual for Models 500A & 503A are instructions for how to "Centralize the Needle Bar Driving Arm"
The manual states you must do the ZERO OUT first, and you have, so I'm thinking this would be the next step. Give it a try and see.
What? You don't have the Service Manual? No worries, you can download a free copy of it here;
sewingdude.files.wordpress.com/2012/09/singer-500-service-manual.pdf
That's about all I can think to do, Joe. I hope it gives you a way forward. Good Luck 👍
Andy Tube I’ll work on that. It wasn’t a long wait. I think I just wrote that yesterday or the day before. My machine is still open.
@@Twisterjoe OK, great and good luck.
Those are big word s I will just say zig zag lol ty for the great information. I have 500 and 503A.
I agree let's all use zigzag bight amplitude is too much thanks for watching
Can You Modify This Machine And Make Straight Stitch Double Size Than Factory ???.
You asked this 4 days ago, and the answer is still no. I do not know of any Domestic (home) sewing machine that Singer made that can be modified to make a stitch that long. There are some INdustrial Machines that can make a 12mm ZigZag stitch but they still make a 6mm stitch. That 6mm is about 50% longer than a domestic machine www.allbrands.com/products/39613-ricoma-fy20u43-12mm-zigzag-and-6mm-straight-stitch
@@andytubesewing1953 Oh With Your Last Video I Did, Sorry Have a Nice Day.
@@-mejor-que-nostradamus-6152 No worries for me, but just wanted to let you know I don't think you'll find it on a Domestic Machine.
Thanks!
Wow, thanks very much!
Hello, Dear friend! Am watching this new video right now, am at 04:10 mn ANNNND i think :-) that what i was looking for WILL surely be in THIS VERY V-D-OOOO !!! ;-)
I truly hope it is so and good luck to you
@@andytubesewing1953 THANK YOU TREMENDOUSLY!
@@adihcarmachouk3383 No worries, friend. good luck always.
@@andytubesewing1953 THANK YOU SO MUCH!
My internet connection signal is turning me MAD o_O ...
I can't help with that, sorry. Only you have my sympathy b/c I also hate when that happens.