Awesome! I'm really glad this helped out bud, that's what I like to hear and why I make these videos! $811 is a complete rip off, damn...parts cost a tenth of that!
Thanks for the comment bud! Yeah it definitely turns a 30 minute job into a 2 hour job when you're trying to tape it haha. I appreciate the appreciation!
Boy howdy was this video spot on! Seriously- changed the front right hub on 1998 K1500 last night. Other than plowing through 22 years of rust to get the 3 hub bolts outs, everything went exactly as you stated. I benefitted from the new hub having ABS pigtail attached, simple plug-n-play on that. Can't thank you enough for taking the time to film and post this. Not sure how much I saved, but total cost with hubs and bolts $122. In your debt!
Little professional tip. Engage your 4x4 before you start. As long as the other tire is on the ground, it'll hold it in place so you can remove axle nut easier.
I feel like an idiot because as long as I’ve been working on vehicles, motorcycles, atv’s etc.. ( parts changer here not a mechanic btw) I’ve never thought to do that lol. ✌️
It won’t work for thermal locking hubs which are found on a lot of these vehicles. The actuator requires electricity and the heat causes it to extend out and engage the 4x4. If it’s manual hubs then you’re good. Those thermal actuators are crap and have a tendency to go out if submerged in cold water because it cools it down to where it contacts instead. I thought of this the other day when working on my 92 k1500. In theory it should work but it will depend if you have manual hubs, electronic hub, posi hub or a thermal engaging hub. It’ll engage until you turn it off with a thermal expanding actuator. So you’ll have to leave the truck running or it’ll disengage (this is all assuming this truck uses the manual tcase with the actuator sensor and a thermal actuator up front). So basically it depends on the system the vehicle uses to engage 4x4.
Thanks for the video. My son and I just changed the bad hub and bearings on our '92 4x4 Suburban (retired fire dept vehicle). I watched this video first.
Thank you for your video, it was very helpful. You explained every step with knowledge and patience which I commend you for, I am a customer amateur mechanic and am learning everything I need to about my 1990 Silverado on how to repair & replace parts and improve this classic pick-up and appreciate any DIY videos that not only show how to do the repair but explain each step so that I can diagnose problems that arise before a serious accident may occurs such as a wheel breaking off.
Going to be doing this later this week (when the parts arrive) for the wife's ride... thanks for the video, should go quick and easy, and make me look like a hero...
Yeah bud! I hope this helps, thank you for the comment! One thing I didn't put in the video (common sense but figured I'd mention it) is an easy way to get the axle nut off, is to remove the center cap of the wheel, put the tire back on, lower the vehicle down a bit so that the tire is on the ground and won't spin, and then break the axle nut loose that way. It's much easier than trying to break it loose while the hub can spin freely up in the air.
Thanks! Great vid. Super clear instructions with no extra bs. Fyi. Ive also heard bad front wheel bearing can cause low speed abs malfunction...which led me here.
Thank you for the kind words! You're absolutely right, that's one of the first tell tale signs even before it starts making noise is spotty abs function.
This was very well done. I just finished putting new rotors and pads on my 1998 Z71. 3 of my caliper pins would not come out of their sketches for some reason. I think one of the bolts was mushroomed at the end. I lubed the bolts in the sheaves, but I could only get one sleeve out. Is there a good way to remove the caliper sheaves so they can be lubed?
Question when you put it all back together ? (Great job btw) did you use the new sensor wire at all? Or did you replace it with the new one that came with?
great job just a trick for next time when you torque the hub assembly nut put the truck in 4 low it stop the axel from spinning also before you take your caliper off open the break reservoir and move the pads with a screw driver it make it easier to remove the break caliper just trying to help
can you help me change my rotors and pads.i got a 95 chevy suburban and people arnt the brightest tool in the shed.im in Chicago and I see you too are in the midwest.or can I rent all those tools at autozone?
That’s tough to say for sure. My first thought is that it would not, but if you do some measurements and find that they’re the exact same size it may work!
I'd have to have the bolt in my hand to know for sure what size thread but there are torque charts based on bolt size if you ever are curious about how much force you need. My guess is around 50
romegee1984 I had one but I replaced the master cylinder and new pads and rotors in the front and redid some of the drum in the back and I haven’t had a brake light since
Just replaced my tensioner pulley on my 96 GMC 2500 the original was really week I could move it easily with my hand. I am still able to do it now but it is a little harder.
awesome video. i think this is my problem. i have a death wobble when i drive up to 45-55 mph. changed my ball joints and control links. i lifted up the front and did the check on my wheels for play and yeah my passenger side shakes. 👌
Why torque axle nut at 10 ft. lb. intervals, without doing anything in-between other than resetting wrench? Why not set at desired setting and tighten to it ?
Haha, nope daily driver and we get more than enough snow and salty roads in Minnesota. Keepin it clean is paying off! Definitely starting to rust though in the cab corners and rockers...it's pretty much inevitable.
That's exactly what I had to do actually. Pull the wheel off, remove center cap, put wheel back on, lower some weight onto the tire and loosen axle nut...I planned on adding all that into the video but it ended up getting too long to explain such a common sense thing. Thank you for the comment and kind words!!
Sounds like the bearing is just starting to go out. I'd also get an alignment job after you replace the bearing. They can adjust the camber and stop the wheel wear just in case this doesn't fix it. Thanks for the comment!
I wish mine would of been that easy! Haha nice video though. I own a 98 Silverado k1500 and did both wheel bearings on mine dam salt really tears vehicles up here in MN
Wow, very helpful, I have a 96 I'm assuming everything will be the same but I'll double check the torques for mine. I didn't do the wobble test with the wheels, I should have because I already have my new hub assembly's from Rock Auto, haha. Hum/groan when I am turning left (been like this for several months, I don't use the truck much so I've put it off) now it's starting with the other side. I'm gonna be frustrated once I do the wobble test and find out it's not bearings, now that I have the bearings already, if it doesn't end up being the bearings what else could that be? For the longest time it was only when turning left, really noticeable at slower speeds.
I paid 4 bucks a set the grease costs more, and it was simple to change like you show, the cartridge bearings on my wife's 07 tahoe is almost 200 each,thats insane.
Correct, but unless you have a bearing puller and press it's worth the little extra money to just buy the entire package. Much easier and faster this way.
I'm usually frugal so if I only had $30 I'd pop it out and insert another. Removing and reinstalling the bearng/race on the hub looks like it might be a bit more work than its worth. I have done bearings before and looking at the hub made me lose interest.
It's not pretty, go get a bunch of new sawzall blades and cut off the bolt heads, then use a plumbers wrench to get the studs that are left on after you take the wheel bearing off, if you have a welder, you might be able to weld on some thin bolts over the bolt heads good luck with that!!
Exact issue last night. Used "twist on" sockets with breaker bar. Support breaker bar on a jack, drive a 2x4(protect bar) with post maul while friend keeps pressure on breaker bar. It was slow, but effective. Took 1-2 minutes per bolt. Heads were rusted down from 15mm to just over 13mm. Would not have finished if son-in-law hadn't supplied those sockets. Good tools can be a life saver. Hope that helps, but hard to explain in words. Pic would've been helpful.
Unfortunately for 2wd pickups they're built a little differently and you won't be able to get an actual hub assembly. I could be wrong but to the best of my knowledge that's how it is.
wow this looks extremely easy... however for my first time doing it i think i'll let somebody whose done it before do it just because my truck is way rustier than this one and i dont want to make anything worse lol
My truck isnt rusty at all and i had a hell of a time getting the center nut off, had to heat it up. Then the three around the outside almost rounded off. Pb blaster and lots of heat was the only way.
Has same issue on 3 hub bolts. Heads rusted down from 15mm to 13mm. Used trick of hitter head of breaker bar while turning a "twist-on" socket. It was. Stubborn, but finally caved to the pressures, haha. Center nut came off no problem. That's the downside of these 22+yr old beasts in the NE. Rust will chew them up. Congrats on your success.
+Midwest Garage I know this is a stupid question, but is it the same process for a rwd? I have a awful noise coming from the driver front tire when I drive which I believe is the hub.
+meez huevos Ya know in all honesty I'm not sure! I would assume it'd be the same process, but with a spindle instead of a CV axle for the hub to sit on...I wish I could help you out more, but I've never done wheel bearings on a 2wd truck before. Best thing to do is buy your hub or bearings, and if they look the same as mine in this video, bet that it's the same process.
You're right, but I'm not a safety Sally. If I was underneath the truck I'd bear the weight on the stand for sure, but this job is so quick and simple, and I'm not under the truck so I just use a jack. The stand is there for the "just in case" moment though, which is better than what I see most people do.
Dealer quoted me $811.00 to do both sides. Thanks alot bro!!! Major life saver, plus I get to pay my rent on time this month.
Awesome! I'm really glad this helped out bud, that's what I like to hear and why I make these videos! $811 is a complete rip off, damn...parts cost a tenth of that!
Must live near me...All the shops in my area (yes, EVERY ONE OF THEM) collude on pricing. Most are also rated 2~3 stars and do shoddy, at best, work.
Same here man. Im trying to do this myself. Thanks for this video
Shout out to all the guys who tape this stuff....its harder than you think
Thanks for the comment bud! Yeah it definitely turns a 30 minute job into a 2 hour job when you're trying to tape it haha. I appreciate the appreciation!
Boy howdy was this video spot on! Seriously- changed the front right hub on 1998 K1500 last night. Other than plowing through 22 years of rust to get the 3 hub bolts outs, everything went exactly as you stated. I benefitted from the new hub having ABS pigtail attached, simple plug-n-play on that. Can't thank you enough for taking the time to film and post this. Not sure how much I saved, but total cost with hubs and bolts $122. In your debt!
Little professional tip. Engage your 4x4 before you start. As long as the other tire is on the ground, it'll hold it in place so you can remove axle nut easier.
I feel like an idiot because as long as I’ve been working on vehicles, motorcycles, atv’s etc.. ( parts changer here not a mechanic btw) I’ve never thought to do that lol. ✌️
It won’t work for thermal locking hubs which are found on a lot of these vehicles. The actuator requires electricity and the heat causes it to extend out and engage the 4x4. If it’s manual hubs then you’re good. Those thermal actuators are crap and have a tendency to go out if submerged in cold water because it cools it down to where it contacts instead. I thought of this the other day when working on my 92 k1500. In theory it should work but it will depend if you have manual hubs, electronic hub, posi hub or a thermal engaging hub. It’ll engage until you turn it off with a thermal expanding actuator. So you’ll have to leave the truck running or it’ll disengage (this is all assuming this truck uses the manual tcase with the actuator sensor and a thermal actuator up front). So basically it depends on the system the vehicle uses to engage 4x4.
Get your wheel bearings here with free shipping!
amzn.to/2CrwL0g
Thanks for the video. My son and I just changed the bad hub and bearings on our '92 4x4 Suburban (retired fire dept vehicle). I watched this video first.
Thank you for taking the time to record and post this! Really helped me out bro!
Thank you for your video, it was very helpful. You explained every step with knowledge and patience which I commend you for, I am a customer amateur mechanic and am learning everything I need to about my 1990 Silverado on how to repair & replace parts and improve this classic pick-up and appreciate any DIY videos that not only show how to do the repair but explain each step so that I can diagnose problems that arise before a serious accident may occurs such as a wheel breaking off.
THIS IS THE BEST MECHANIC VIDEO IVE EVER SEEN YOU ROCK!! YOU'RE VERY PROFESSIONAL, THOROUGH AND I THANK YOU BUDDY. A FEMALE DO IT MYSELF TRUCK OWNER.
Awesome! Thank you for the kind words, that is very much appreciated!
Going to be doing this later this week (when the parts arrive) for the wife's ride... thanks for the video, should go quick and easy, and make me look like a hero...
Yeah bud! I hope this helps, thank you for the comment! One thing I didn't put in the video (common sense but figured I'd mention it) is an easy way to get the axle nut off, is to remove the center cap of the wheel, put the tire back on, lower the vehicle down a bit so that the tire is on the ground and won't spin, and then break the axle nut loose that way. It's much easier than trying to break it loose while the hub can spin freely up in the air.
Awesome job taping your video helped out a lot I wouldn’t know how to get this repair done without your help 👍🏻
Thank you for the kind words! I'm glad this video helped you!
Awesome video! I like the simplicity and lack of camera tricks, helped to follow step by step
Thanks bud, much appreciated!
I apologize for the horrible audio in this video, I think I hurried through the editing process on this one.
The hub to steering assembly bolts do, in fact, have a specific torque value - it's 133 ft-lbs. :)
Thank you! I did not know that haha. I usually torque those down to German manufacturing recommendations, "Goodentight".
I really appreciate this walk through, buddy.
Thanks! Great vid. Super clear instructions with no extra bs. Fyi. Ive also heard bad front wheel bearing can cause low speed abs malfunction...which led me here.
Thank you for the kind words! You're absolutely right, that's one of the first tell tale signs even before it starts making noise is spotty abs function.
Great video man, you made my bearing job a breeze.
Awesome! Glad I could help bud!
Audio and video were clear. Well done and helpful video. Thanks.
Thank you! Glad I could help!
I like it very detailed right to the point not a bunch of talking
Thank you for this video. I'm fixin to replace mine today.
I laughed when the hub assembly just fell out with 2 taps of the ratchet
This was very well done. I just finished putting new rotors and pads on my 1998 Z71. 3 of my caliper pins would not come out of their sketches for some reason. I think one of the bolts was mushroomed at the end. I lubed the bolts in the sheaves, but I could only get one sleeve out. Is there a good way to remove the caliper sheaves so they can be lubed?
Question when you put it all back together ? (Great job btw) did you use the new sensor wire at all? Or did you replace it with the new one that came with?
It's best to use the supplied sensor so you don't damage it
Did u clean the mating surface?? Looks dirty
What size is the hub locking nut? 35mm or 34mm?
Oof, I can't remember exactly. Does it say in the video? If it doesn't I can find out for you though. I apologize this video is from a while back now.
35mm
1 3/8" equivalent.
You said in your video you would leave a link to torque specifications?
What brand and size are your rims and tires?
Very much appreciate your vid.. to the point and yet very well explained.. thx
Let me know if you ever changed your gear ratios. I want to do it to my 92 1500 Blazer
great job just a trick for next time when you torque the hub assembly nut put the truck in 4 low it stop the axel from spinning also before you take your caliper off open the break reservoir and move the pads with a screw driver it make it easier to remove the break caliper just trying to help
What size rim and tires are you running i got a 96 step side regular cab running 305/70/r16 on a 4"lift
Great vid, helped me change it out with all of the necessary tools within reach. Thanks
You're very welcome! Glad I could help.
Thanks man. Ive been looking for a video for some time outlining this.
Awesome, glad this helped man!
is the process the same for a 90 silverado?
Yup! There may be minor differences in socket sizes or something of that sort but process should be the same.
can you help me change my rotors and pads.i got a 95 chevy suburban and people arnt the brightest tool in the shed.im in Chicago and I see you too are in the midwest.or can I rent all those tools at autozone?
question of my wheel hubs are bad with this make my cv axle feel lose should I change hubs and axles
Bro if i got a 6 lug bearing and want to swap it to a 5 lug will it fit?
That’s tough to say for sure. My first thought is that it would not, but if you do some measurements and find that they’re the exact same size it may work!
I'd have to have the bolt in my hand to know for sure what size thread but there are torque charts based on bolt size if you ever are curious about how much force you need. My guess is around 50
got anything on brake light issues 94 z71?
romegee1984 I had one but I replaced the master cylinder and new pads and rotors in the front and redid some of the drum in the back and I haven’t had a brake light since
Just replaced my tensioner pulley on my 96 GMC 2500 the original was really week I could move it easily with my hand. I am still able to do it now but it is a little harder.
Will it be the same for a 96 c1500 2wd
The 2wd hubs are a little different I believe, but the process should be very similar, except for having the cv axle of course.
Where did you get the bearing and hub? All I am able to find is the bearing alone.thanks.
I picked this up at O'Reilly's Auto Parts.
Check out Summit racing. They have Moog for cheap. If you didnt buy it already.
Search hub assembly instead of wheel bearing.
thanks for video. mine is a 99 4x4 Suburban the one you did wont work on mine but got the general idea thanks again!
Is it much different from a 98 Starcraft?
Midwest garage thank you so much you made this easy. Not a bunch of complicated bull shit.
awesome video. i think this is my problem. i have a death wobble when i drive up to 45-55 mph. changed my ball joints and control links. i lifted up the front and did the check on my wheels for play and yeah my passenger side shakes. 👌
+Paul Velez Awesome, I'm glad I could help. Hope all goes well!
Paul Velez check your U Joints and Swing bearing. That'll cause a bad shake as well
Why torque axle nut at 10 ft. lb. intervals, without doing anything in-between other than resetting wrench? Why not set at desired setting and tighten to it ?
all bolts have a specific torque its good to give torque as you go along so no one over tightens their bolts or breaks that sensor bolt
Thanks for the feedback bud, I appreciate it! That's a very good point!
thank you, hard to hear, but my old construction ears are shot
Great video and a clean truck 👍👍
Thanks man!
What no rust!
Lucky, you must live where it don't snow or she's in the garage, congratulations!
Haha, nope daily driver and we get more than enough snow and salty roads in Minnesota. Keepin it clean is paying off! Definitely starting to rust though in the cab corners and rockers...it's pretty much inevitable.
The only thing I would have done different is loosen the axle nut before I jacked up the truck, other then that great video.
That's exactly what I had to do actually. Pull the wheel off, remove center cap, put wheel back on, lower some weight onto the tire and loosen axle nut...I planned on adding all that into the video but it ended up getting too long to explain such a common sense thing. Thank you for the comment and kind words!!
Thanks mine needs to be done helps me out alot
I check on mine and it doesn’t move up and down but it makes the noise and it has positive camber where the outside of both wheels are wearing fast
Sounds like the bearing is just starting to go out. I'd also get an alignment job after you replace the bearing. They can adjust the camber and stop the wheel wear just in case this doesn't fix it. Thanks for the comment!
FSM said 133 ft. lbs of torque on the bearing/hub assembly to knuckle mounting bolts
I wish mine would of been that easy! Haha nice video though. I own a 98 Silverado k1500 and did both wheel bearings on mine dam salt really tears vehicles up here in MN
I hear ya there man. This is also a Minnesota truck, I’ve been fairly lucky though and been able to keep that Minnesota moss off of it pretty good.
@@MidwestGarage thats good man they don't make them like these anymore.
Same here, I’ve a 1998 k1500, I love it!
It’s my “everything” truck.
Great video my 99 hoe needs a driver side hub this simplified this project thanks 👍
Great video
+chevelle7873 Thanks!
Perfect video. Thanks a ton.
Wow, very helpful, I have a 96 I'm assuming everything will be the same but I'll double check the torques for mine. I didn't do the wobble test with the wheels, I should have because I already have my new hub assembly's from Rock Auto, haha. Hum/groan when I am turning left (been like this for several months, I don't use the truck much so I've put it off) now it's starting with the other side. I'm gonna be frustrated once I do the wobble test and find out it's not bearings, now that I have the bearings already, if it doesn't end up being the bearings what else could that be? For the longest time it was only when turning left, really noticeable at slower speeds.
Derek L prolly doesn't help now but it's prolly a cv axle
Really good video!
Thanks bud!
You’re the man
thanks that was big time helpful
I paid 4 bucks a set the grease costs more, and it was simple to change like you show, the cartridge bearings on my wife's 07 tahoe is almost 200 each,thats insane.
so the hub dorsnt necessarily have to be replaced..just the bearing to fix the problem?
Correct, but unless you have a bearing puller and press it's worth the little extra money to just buy the entire package. Much easier and faster this way.
I'm usually frugal so if I only had $30 I'd pop it out and insert another. Removing and reinstalling the bearng/race on the hub looks like it might be a bit more work than its worth. I have done bearings before and looking at the hub made me lose interest.
a swift you didn't put your dust shield on..
Awesome video man thanks alot 👍
How about a video of removing the hub when the bolts can't be removed.
It's not pretty, go get a bunch of new sawzall blades and cut off the bolt heads, then use a plumbers wrench to get the studs that are left on after you take the wheel bearing off, if you have a welder, you might be able to weld on some thin bolts over the bolt heads good luck with that!!
Exact issue last night. Used "twist on" sockets with breaker bar. Support breaker bar on a jack, drive a 2x4(protect bar) with post maul while friend keeps pressure on breaker bar. It was slow, but effective. Took 1-2 minutes per bolt. Heads were rusted down from 15mm to just over 13mm. Would not have finished if son-in-law hadn't supplied those sockets. Good tools can be a life saver. Hope that helps, but hard to explain in words. Pic would've been helpful.
Just removed 1 off a 1992 GM 2500 6 bolt .Heated old hub with torch before loosening bolts. Its an off road plow truck.
So am I the only one that noticed the heat shield was reinstalled backwards and the ABS sensor port was blocked and not accessible?
No it wasnt
Looked like he slid heat shield in BEHIND the hub face. Instead of on front of hub where it belongs.
thanks big help!
Good video-Thanks
Well Done!
Thanks. Fine job.
Thanks!
Was this just the outer bearing
No this is the entire hub assembly so it has your inner and outer bearings inside it.
Unfortunately for 2wd pickups they're built a little differently and you won't be able to get an actual hub assembly. I could be wrong but to the best of my knowledge that's how it is.
Yes sir. It's a pain in the butt but you can rent bearing press tools from autozone for free if you don't have one.
Why didn’t u compress the caliper? It would have came off smooth
Hard to compress the caliper with the rotor in the way. Easier to just muscle it off in my opinion.
thank you
You're very welcome!
Antisieze is a torque multiplier. 25-30% So using antisieze at 165ft/lbs is actually over torqued
wow this looks extremely easy... however for my first time doing it i think i'll let somebody whose done it before do it just because my truck is way rustier than this one and i dont want to make anything worse lol
My truck isnt rusty at all and i had a hell of a time getting the center nut off, had to heat it up. Then the three around the outside almost rounded off. Pb blaster and lots of heat was the only way.
Has same issue on 3 hub bolts. Heads rusted down from 15mm to 13mm. Used trick of hitter head of breaker bar while turning a "twist-on" socket. It was. Stubborn, but finally caved to the pressures, haha. Center nut came off no problem. That's the downside of these 22+yr old beasts in the NE. Rust will chew them up. Congrats on your success.
good job
Easy enough. I'll protect the lug threads a little better tho.
After completing the job, when did you figure out that you hadn't connected your abs line?😫🤪😂
I am 70 years old and just replaced both sides. It was not that difficult if you follow what is shown. Don't be intimidated.
OK, sure!
Is this a 4x4 or rwd?
+meez huevos This is a 4WD.
+Midwest Garage I know this is a stupid question, but is it the same process for a rwd? I have a awful noise coming from the driver front tire when I drive which I believe is the hub.
+meez huevos Ya know in all honesty I'm not sure! I would assume it'd be the same process, but with a spindle instead of a CV axle for the hub to sit on...I wish I could help you out more, but I've never done wheel bearings on a 2wd truck before. Best thing to do is buy your hub or bearings, and if they look the same as mine in this video, bet that it's the same process.
It is a different process for the 2wd but it is MUCH cheaper....K1500 bearing assembly is about $100 C1500 is about $30
Female socket?? Reverse socket?? Lmao its 3/8" Allen head lmao
I noticed your jackstand is just sitting there as a failsafe. It should be bearing the weight, not the jack. SMH
You're right, but I'm not a safety Sally. If I was underneath the truck I'd bear the weight on the stand for sure, but this job is so quick and simple, and I'm not under the truck so I just use a jack. The stand is there for the "just in case" moment though, which is better than what I see most people do.
Thumbs down just for sound!
I CANT HEAR YOU!
Knob
Would this be the same on a c1500 ?