Testing the Portable Induction Heater and How to Build One
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 19 ม.ค. 2017
- Links to equipment used in the video:
Variac Adjustable Transformer: amzn.to/2jJc2PN
ZVS Driver amzn.to/2ih2daY
High Current Output Lipo Battery amzn.to/2iqDmSS
Better and less expensive battery: amzn.to/2iP5XBX
LiPo Battery Charger: amzn.to/2iXGi5Q
Temperature Meter 2000F(1300C) amzn.to/1NqHV6j
Aerosol Fire Extinguisher amzn.to/1NwFLlx
Seek Thermal Camera: amzn.to/2iXPGq8
See my instructables account for step by step guides to some of my projects: www.instructables.com/member/P...
Please support my channel to help me make more videos: / protog42
FOLLOW:
/ protog42
/ protog42
/ protog42 - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
I have purchased a couple of these drivers and I am very impressed that you found an appropriate linear unregulated power supply. I have searched sites, unsuccessfully so I was wondering where I might find one similar to that you'd exhibited. It's a perfect match, the variable transformer and series power supply, kudos to you regarding your achievement.
thanks for the decent explanation on fast power up lode, i have the small version and 12volt train set power supply i added in a 14amp train pusher dial to the circuit but it only rang sometimes and your right it was only when i was not placing something in it, i wanted to use it as a gold dust smelter inside a cruicible, but all the winding experiements turned out to fail even though it only heats a needle that was pathetic , your bigger version is what i'll try next thanks for the 24volt tip, do you mean iron fluid or aluminium fluid , they sell antiboil for cars in oil form, was just wondering how to reverse heating is it via gas nutrons like the freezer fridge? when it makes condensing via negative influence ?
"How to Build One" Where is the schematic and component list?
Thanks for the video. Also, that’s a super nice credenza.
I have this same project box but im using it for a 30 kV power supply and yes I have fans in it for cooling
Hi, I am from Venezuela and I have seen so many videos about this subject but yours has been the one that explained the process better, I would like to know if I could give the components in a list and the electric plane, thank you.
excellent presentation
Thanks David!
can you do one on forging a stainless steel knife blade? how one would go about building one, specs, etc...? thx
Is the size of the loops in the copper tubing important or can those loops be larger and it still work, it seems like a lots of work if you have a large amount to melt...PLUS how hard would it be to add an on off switch....
Great work. I tried to do similar circuit but it didn't work . Can you help me with component and circuit diagram
thanks for sharing Proto G Engineering
Do you have any issues with heat generated on zvs output cables? What's the gauge of the wires are you using to extend outputs out of the enclosure? Also, how much is your current consumption without putting an object into the coil? I have a similar setup, however I have an issue dealing with heat of standoffs as well as cables at the output.
Can you do a build video or schematic for your unregulated capacitor power supply?
nice derista ice pick dude
How does it do on 1” dia thin wall steel tube? I need to heat it locally to bend up frame tubes and exhaust pipes.
Can it get .060” wall 1” tube up to red heat?
love your camera movement.
Thanks, I'm working on it. Sometimes I pull away when I don't intend to, like when I put the shears in the water.
GREAT VIDEO, I think I will use some of your techniques. Including the mineral oil cooling bath. BTW, Your on-off switch is about to short 'ON'.
Do you need a switch at all if you're using a high discharge LiPo battery?
What's the startup frequency of this unit and what's the capacitance of the tank circuit as well as the inductance of the work coil?
How much current are you giving the zvs driver and at what voltage?
Haha nice Radio Shack drawers! I scored a bunch too, love em!
Would like to make an induction sewer cooker, with cast iron pipe. Septic is expensive, but human waste can be made safe if heat treated. Solar/wind plus induction seems to be a good choice, as one often needs an energy dump. Would be much better for the environment.
Septic systems can cost between $5000 to 10,000 dollars. Would seem you could burn poop for far less, and make it safe for fertilizer .
You have already made a great project.....No need to cut stuff with a hot glowing knife.....✌👍
What would need to change to use this as a heat treat oven for knife making?
@proto g engineering where you can get those drawers from the sides? How are they called?
Regards
Beautiful Capacitor.
Can you give us a link to those switches you are using ?
That's not a 3 KW induction resonator that's a Chinese ZVS (zero voltage switching) preassembled 1KW boardits advertised on ebay for $32
Oooohhh. How do you manage to sleep at night?
All this induction heater boards like 1500 watt or 2500 watt on Amazon and ebay,
How di you know what power supply to make or get? Do you just need one that says 1500 or 2500 as what the board says?
I wanted to just use two marine batteries in series for 24 volts
What is the EMF external to the coil like?
Would a 40v battery work? I wanted to make one for a video, but I was wondering how long it would last with a 40v, if you knew
It could, but that depends on a lot of things. What capacity is the 40V battery and what is the rated maximum discharge rate?
Proto G high capacity, the maximum discharge I can't be positive, cause these are usually bought for leaf blowers and weed cutters, where there're not the specific on the batteries. The brand of it is RYOBI, I haven't been able to find a lot of info about it :/
@@Sam_Folsom they should have adequate discharge. Most battery operated drills and other power tools use battery packs consisting of multiple high discharge 18650 lithium cells 3.7v per cell. The same cells can be found in laptop battery packs but have only low discharge capabilities. I discovered this when I made a battery pack from 18650 laptop cells for a quadcopter/drone. When attempting to lift off the craft rose about 5" off the ground for around 2 seconds before landing. I changed the cells over to 18650's from a power drill battery and take off was successful
How are you gettin that much power out of that rectifying circuit? It looks like you have quantity (4) 1,200 uF capacitors in parallel for a total capacitance of 4,800 uF. The voltage ripple on smoothing capacitors is current/(frequency*capacitance). Since you’re running it through a full bridge rectifier, the 60 Hz from the variac gets doubled to 120 Hz so V ripple = 20 A/ (120 Hz * 4800x10^-6 F) = 34.7 volts. That means your voltage should drop to around 15 volts 120 times per second which I would think would not make this heater work too well. Is there something else going on in your rectifier circuit?
what kind of knife is that ?? it would come in handy at work for me
awesome videos dude!!
Did you cannibalize a Welch Allyn AED10 to make this? Those capacitors are nice!
Good Idea thank you so much
This would be great to use with titanium and other metals in a backfilled vacuum chamber.
Nice video, I really liked the ZVS driver enclosure! Also would you mind sharing what rectifier your using in your power supply? Also whats the voltage and capacitance on those capacitors?
There are four 1,200uF 200VDC caps. The more, the better in this case. Not sure about the rectifier off the top of my head, but any high power full bridge rectifier will do.
Proto G Hi, could this be used with an old stick welder?
what kind of capacitor did you use? is it a capacitor polarised?
What IC did u use??
How did the the coils not arc when you touched the shears on it. Min mark 4:32 and 4:42??? I would of thought I’d see some sparks as the work coil isn’t insulated in anyway shape or form.
It's alright to simply connect one of those coils to a variac directly for the same general effect?
That would be a good way to blow a fuse with that coil. It would have to have a much higher number of turns and at 60Hz to not blow a fuse and it would be a very inefficient induction system. Same reason regular AC transformers get warm. The higher the frequency, the faster the heating occurs in the target material.
are the coils special coils or are they normal brass or copper?
Would it melt brass in the crucible?
There is enough energy, over 500 watts to melt brass. The graphite crucible will tolerate well over 2500 degrees Fahrenheit and red brass melts around 1800 F which is orange/yellow hot. The real trick is to insulate the crucible and keep a cover over the melt to keep the radiating heat from escaping to the surroundings. Also ,the crucible will begin burning so it's important to melt and pour it as soon as possible. I would start with very small quantities of brass and slowly add more per each experimental trial to see how much you might melt. That crucible won't melt and hold much molten brass, likely only a few ounces at most.
Muazzam bir çalışma, ellerinize sağlık, müthiş. Sizden bir ricam olacak. Bu muazzam icadınızın devre şeması ve devrede kullanılan malzemeleri çizip paylaşır mısınız. Sabırsızlıkla bekliyorum...
Kusura bakmayın, İngilizce bilmediğim için Türkçe yazdım. umarım bana vereceğiniz cevapta Türkçe olur
Hi, there. Thank you for a video.
On 2:55 you said that it's very important not to have anything in the coil before starting, since it can cross-conduct and then MOSFETs will be in big trouble. Could you kindly explain that a bit if you have time? Thanks.
In practice, an object inside the Coil reduces its inductance, and so the oscillation may not begin due to a lack of reactive component and the mosfets will turn on together and the bad thing he was talking about is that they won't cause a short circuit so any protections will trip but they will just dissipate a lot of power, result, burned mosfets, maybe damaged PCB, a lot of smoke and risk of fire
why 200v power supply caps? inductive spikes? Input supply is going to have a lot of ripple. is that not a problem?
Superb.
If you like my videos, please consider supporting me at www.patreon.com/ProtoG42 to help me produce more content. I spend quite a bit more money buying parts for videos than the income that the videos generate. You can also support me by simply subscribing, liking and commenting on my videos. Thanks for watching!
If I wanted to melt some steel, what variac would I need?
Proto G where did you get that knife, that was real cool!! NOT THAT THE COILS WERE NOT COOOOOOL!!! Just asking One Old Legged Joseph T
Yo give the upper most copper coil a opposite turn, then you can just drop the metal into the coil and the metal will float at the intersection of the two coils until you turn it off. You could then put a molten cast at the bottom of the coil so when you turn it off it falls right into your mold and hardens in whatever shape you want it.
Can I just pay you to make it and ship it to me?
You said you would not use it as a forge? If that only because is the heat disapaition? If you had a fan cooling the mosfets, could you use it as a forge? I ask befuddled that is exactly whet I want to build for my brother do he can get away from the coal burning forge he is currently using.
good tips . tnnx :)
Hang on - am I missing something, or would the output coil on this setup be at mains potential? I can't see what isolates the output from the mains.
The big red variac (adjustable transformer) is stepping down 115VAC to around 50VAC that is then being rectified and filtered with the inductors and capacitors.
Ahhh, it's an isolated Variac - didn't even know you could get those, cool!
ur extremely neat good job
What happens if your metal accidentally touches the side of the forge?
00bean00 giant sparks. Try to not let it touch the coil as much as possible
That was awesome! I know that it's not technically a forge, but just the idea of an electronic forge is exciting. With the right parts and a properly regulated power supply, you could definitely make an e-forge! And the fact that it was battery powered made it even more useful. And thanks for showcasing how you made it. It really makes it that much easier to understand and debunks the common "mysteries" of circuitry.
Good video, I'm making something very similar, for automotive use to get seized bolts unstuck. What toggle switch is that for power? I looked around on ebay and couldn't find anything that was rated high enough for the device to work at 1000W. Opted to use a mosfet and an ordinary low power switch to toggle power instead.
Thanks! Any switch rated for 15 amps or more will be fine. Remember, you should never switch power to the unit with anything in the coil. When you switch it on, you'll only be switching 7 amps or so. The ratings on switches are only for the actual switching current. The conductors within the switch are rated for much more than the listed rating. These will work fine: amzn.to/2iVP2co Your solution with the MOSFET is also fine, but more complicated than it needs to be.
Proto G fantastic, didn't know about the switching current part. Thanks!
Jimmy,could you send me a schematic of the mosfet switch you made? I'm interested in making one, the switch I used wasn't up to the task. Worked on 24V but when I stepped up to 48V it didn't last long.
I'm not making one from scratch. Coincidentally I have the same zvs driver @Proto G is using in his videos. I have not received it yet due to long shipping from China, but I will try to remember to update you on when I do receive it. It should work up to the maximum of 60-70V after which it goes up in smoke based on the literature I found on the web. @Proto G has shown that it can draw over 1000W without going up in smoke.
how much the amps of Ac?
are u using 220v or 110v?
I don't remember how many amps but he was using 50v from the power supply that he has which I'm sure plugs into the wall outlet which I'm sure you know is 120v:)
AAaaah! I made the blinding light!!
good job. i think you just annealed your tools though
is that a 20a variac youre using?
It's listed in the description. It's a 10A isolated variac.
Thanks for not cutting anything like a mouth breather would! Nice video.
Thank God you didn't demonstrate cutting anything with a hot knife! Does the coil get hot with extended use? Would it eventually need to be water cooled?
The coils mainly get hot when from the radiated heat of the object inside, but you can reduce that by putting a fiberglass insulation sleeve on the coil.
هل هاذه تعمل على 220vlt
cAN YOU PROVIDE THE CIRCUIT DIAGRAM...
sure he can't
ขายลาคาเท่าไล
Why don't you make some cutouts in the enclosure and add 2 little fans near the radiators?
I might, but I'm still deciding whether or not I'm going to fill it with oil. It's not something I'm going to use very often but if a demand pops up, I'll consider oil or fans.
Proto G Even if you fill it with oil, don't you need a pump to recirculate it and some exterior radiator? For me it doesn't make sense to just fill it with oil, since the plastic encasing is still a heat insulator. Plus, the ZVS will be heavier.
Even if I did absolutely nothing else, filling the case with oil will dramatically increase the continuous run time of the unit. More so than only adding fans. Oil can store much more thermal energy and transfer the heat away from components much easier. The thermal conductivity of oil is more than 6 times better than air and oil can store 66% more thermal energy than air. The downside is of course that the unit will be heavier but it will still work better than fans in the short term. The average oil temperature will eventually get hot but you're talking over an hour of use. If you plan on using this unit for more than an hour, you shouldn't anyway. It's not a replacement for an industrial standalone heater. Out in the field, your batteries would die before you're even close to overheating. Of course you can make one however you want, but I'm leaving mine alone.
What I'm saying is that you're going to be limited by the plastic case in terms of heat transfer. The mineral oil will transfer the heat away from the hot zone until you will reach an equilibrium. Then where will be your heat transfered if you are completely insulated by the plastic enclosure?
You're right but what I'm saying is that if you plan to use this to the point that the thermal equilibrium of the oil is reached, you shouldn't be using this device at all. It would take an hour or so for the oil to heat up that much. It is not an industrial heater and shouldn't be used as such. If you really wanted to overclock this, fans wouldn't help much and you would still need to resort to either water cooling or active oil cooling which defeats the purpose of "portable"
Thumbs up :)
The wires connected to the coil coming out from the plastic box are too thin because heavy resonant currents will pass through them to the coil so be careful for continuous operation they may burn.
That 8 AWG wire is perfectly capable of handle 20 amps. 8 AWG is rated for 50 amps. I wouldn't run this for too long because the electronics will overheat in the case if used for more than 20 or so minutes at a time.
0:15 "Portable" and "Standalone" are the same thing. "Standalone" (mode) is with batteries, not when it's hooked up to a charger. It's "alone". i.e, no wires, cables or chargers etc. Try "Desktop mode" instead. ;)
your pointer looks like something sticking out of a teletubbies head.
You should add a cooling fan inside
Or put a fan inside a food container or something and put ice in it and cut a hole in the container where you want the fan and connect a tube so the fan blows cool air into it through the tube. I haven't tried this but seems reasonable to me. Put less ice if it's too cold for it I'm curious as to how it would work
You need to pump water suds oil through that copper coil, then the coil will stay cold.
"it heats up very very quickly" because there is almost no material to heat up. anywayyyyy... I subscribed and "liked". you bought the Chinese ZVS Heater and closed it in the box.
hey..you heating your tool and put on the water it make your tool damaged
Could you make a electric space heater from this unit ??? Please let me know and thanks. V
We can not hear you
Get a hand vacuum pump and put a test tube in there after you have 30 inches of mercury.
Sorry but You could not fill it with mineral oil, as the oil would eat your rubber seal and any rubber in there, plus the mineral oil would work it's way throughout your cables and leak out.
Trust me iv been there. It's very hard to seal anything from oil.
Regards
Anthony
High1voltage1rules
That depends on the type of gasket and the type of oil. I've filled several of these type of enclosures in the past with silicone oil after sealing the cable connections with silicone. No issues with leaking if you do it right. I've built a 26kV, 50kV, 100kV, 200kV, and a 1.6MV generator for a customer and all units were sealed with silicone oil except for the 1.6MV unit. That was filled with special high voltage dielectric oil.
Can I just pay you to make it and ship it to me?
i think you need more oscilloscopes 8-)
Try to melt copper.
I melted aluminum in this previous video: th-cam.com/video/_9ZK_Hs99FU/w-d-xo.html
aluminum does not suit. gold silver copper is necessary.
What do you need it for?
melt the gold in a crucible
Copper or bronce is much mor beautiful for accessories I want to cast than aluminum. I was wondering if I would build a propane powered furnace ore a induction furnace. Induction really seems nice, is it possible to use it for bronce casting?
"How to Build One"? Bought from Ebay :/
You couldn't source the individual components any cheaper. Please point me to an off the shelf contained induction heater with this much power for under $100