I watched endless videos covering the door switch, thermal fuse, broken belt sensor, solar flares, etc,,,,,,,, All while letting my wife know I haven't figured out the issue with our dryer, I'm still searching for that one video that relates to our dryer's issue. As soon as I watched your video I knew I hit the jackpot! I own a Maytag MDG3000AWW that would not start yet had power. All components checked out for function and continuity. Thank you so much for sharing your experience, what a huge help in a household with five kids! After day three with the same underware you took us to the promise land. Thanks again, great video!
Thank you my friend for the wonderful comment I appreciate you very much. Thank you for watching my video, you know there are alot of people that share thier videos unfortunately alot of people do not show step by step and help explain they just get to the point, they're alot of people that actually need that extra step to help them solve a problem and I'm so happy that my video was able to help you save your maytag dryer old school is the way to go with appliances in my opinion 😊 have a great day buddy
Same here- I've checked the door switch, the mother board for burned spots, now the thermal fuse- all circuits with the heat element (3 of them) tested with continuity. I was sure it was the thermal fuse. Now, I will look at the drive motor. The dryer quit while it was doing a cycle, so there is a hint of what. Just, which what? It is a challenge for sure. Glad to see this video as another solution.
@@judygredler2598Im about to try the same. Im gonna just get one of amazon and return it if its not a fix. If its not that I’ll just have to bite the bullet.
The switch you are showing is a centrifugal switch. In the start position the two springs pull the weights in and move a plastic disc back to activate the start circuit. When the motor starts centrifugal force pulls the weights out and moves the plastic disc away from the start switch. This kills the start circuit. When the motor stops the springs pull the weights in again for the next startup.
Yes that's pretty much what i was about to post , note also the two larger red wires on the motor connector these are integrated into the heater element so that the heater only comes on when the motor and centrifugal switch are activated, The black and white wires supply 120 volts to the motor itself, the green is the ground wire.
THANK YOU!!!! This solved my problem! My brand new motor didn't work. Apparently, it was the motor switch (which I had no idea existed until I saw your video).
Because of your video, I accidentally fixed my dryer. Let me share how. My dryer would not start. I checked everything, EVERYTHING, before taking it apart to test the motor. When I had performed the continuity test on the white & blue wire connect and then the white & black wire connect into the motor switch, everything was good. SO!! I did a VOLTAGE TEST where I put a jump wire for the door switch to mimic the door being closed. I put my multimeter on ACV 250. I plugged the dryer in. Set the timer to heat dry and pushed the start switch. BOO-YAH!!! It worked. So then I removed the multimeter probes from the connection and tried the start switch again. It is still working. APPARENTLY when I had pushed those probes into the wire harness, I snugged up a loose wire. EVERYONE told me that it was VERY rare that a motor would go bad on a Whirlpool dryer, especially a 3 year old dryer. I was about to load this dryer up and take it to a parts shop to put a new motor in. WHEW!!! Saved a few hundred dollars by checking everything.
This is the only place I have found this information. It may be the cause of the problem I am having (Drum will only start spinning when I press start AND manually rotate the drum). I will check this tomorrow. Many thanks, Bill from Montreal, Canada
"Now I can add this little DEMON to my list" LOL....I'm having the EXACT same problem. I'm glad I found your video as I can relate to your frustration.
The springs in that switch just start to "sag" after a few years so the arm gets stuck. It is simple to open that switch by gently bending that contact a bit and the cover comes off. Then each "leaf spring" with a contact can be pulled out. Just use a small flat blade screw driver to release the locking tab one one contact and pull with plyers. It slides right out. Bend the spring so it has more tension as it did when new. File the contact flat and then put it back in place. If you're cleaver you can do it in place. Sand paper also works. If you did it right, the arm should require more force to move it, so it will snap back in place when the ring moves out of the way.
Thanks for sharing this video. My 29 year old Magic Chef Dryer had hard time starting, a lot clicking sound like the switch going on and off. Plus the smell of something over heating. I had to open the top and give it a try a push start and start turning or working. I had to order the whole motor with the switch on it, wasn’t sold separate. That’s half of the cost of a new dryer.
Yes it is I prefer older appliances over the new ones it's cheaper to keep our appliances alive if we take good care of them. I will not buy new appliances because it cost so much to replace a part of the are any questions you have feel free to ask them you for the response 😊
THANK YOU! I only listened to your first few sentences and decided to stop and check the breaker just in case it was that simple! IT WAS! I would have wasted hours before I got around to figuring that out! I happened to be standing in front of the dryer and heard the motor strain. I immediately opened the door but it was too late. It would not hum. I removed the man's tennis shoe that had positioned itself just right to have stopped the drum from turning. Though I removed it and tried to restart the dryer nothing happened. Until your video it never occurred to me that it would have interfered with the breaker box. Though it did not trip the switch, I flipped them on and off, then restarted the dryer. WALLA!
Just got done fixing my motor. The weights on the centrifugal switch.... ONe of them lost their tab to hold the spring and the spring went..... Symptom was that the dryer start was intermittent. The weights are made of pot metal. I put the motor on the bench and used a Dremel with a thin metal grinding wheel in order to grind new grooves on the centrifugal weights for the motor. I oiled the new grooves and reinstalled the "lost" spring that was found in the bottom of the dryer. Works like new. Better than new IMO. We'll see how long it lasts but those new grooves are thicker than the old. Another 20 years out of that dryer I would guess.
I just did the same thing. Found a spring laying in the bottom and was able to get the motor to run without the drum but I had to spin the pull to get it going. It would not run with the drum. I took it apart again and saw that it was missing a spring on the clutch. Drilled a hole, looped the spring and good as new.
my son has the same dryer with the same problem as you did, I checked all switches, and they were good now I will go get the motor switch and hopefully will get his dryer going within the net 2 hours Thanks for the video
this is the first I've heard of the motor switch...and I'm just at the point of pulling motor from old driyer. so glad I found this.!!!! same thing here...power everywhere except. thx again!!!!! let you know what happens...
I have a 20 year old Kenmore checked everything door switch, motor, the two thermal fuse, start switch, the M460-G timer control, took the little circuit board out looked for burn marks nothing. Before reconnecting the circuit board, I turned it on..... Worked! just don't have the fancy moisture control which we never used.
Gold nugget of knowledge. My dryer wouldn’t turn. Lights, switches, thermal fuse, everything checked out. Pushed start and there is a click heard, like a relay engaged, but the dryer wouldn’t tumble even though the indicators said it was drying. I’ve got the motor out now and I’ll check this switch.
Usually is, not many people know about this so they trash thier dryer and go buy an expensive dryer thinking that will solve the problem. What they don't know is old school dryers like this will last forever plus the cost is 10x cheaper to find parts and repair if your handy and have a Mechanical Mind know what I mean!
Thank you for this video. I'm like you, it's taking me forever which I checked the Continuity and it was reading good but I didn't check to see if that little switch was stuck. I will do that now because I have checked every single other thing possible from the outlet , plug etc., Everything from top to bottom and replace the heating element that was fried . Unfortunately, heating element didn't solve the problem by itself . I'm going to check out the actual switch now. Very helpful video!!!! thank you
Good Vdo, thanks, can this centrifugal switch buy separate part ? Or do we have to buy whole new motor assembly ? If yes, what's part number and where can buy it ? Is it easy to disassemble it from motor ? Pls advise.
also check to see if your unit has a belt switch, if the belt is removed or broke, the circuit opens. unlike your unit you can get it to run, i was cursing untill i moved the tension er and heard a click click each time i raised and lowered it. i did a what dah fuuddd. same issues as you but not my switch. if you check the ohms on the 2 red wires, top and bottom you should have a open circuit and when you close the centrifugal switch the circuits should then be closed. you can open the switch and clean the contacts. if it seem not to work, then try again.
Hi thanks for the video. What if the motor doesn’t spin freely? I replaced the pulley, and wheels, still the motor won’t turn free when I turn the drum by hand. Please suggest a fix. Should I be replacing the whole motor?
Thank you for watching my video, you can search the modle number online, Amazon, eBay, used appliances stores, just make sure the modle number is a match.
I could use your help. I have a Kenmore Model 110.24922200 90 Series washer. After completing one load of wash I started a second. The tub filled with water, agitated then stopped. No matter what setting I put it in nothing happens other then the water will fill. No humming, nothing. I did check the lid switch, it is good, I even jumped it to make sure. I also replaced the timer. I tried tracing the wires but got lost.
Hello, the lid switch is what I was going to ask about, check for continuity if you do open the lid and see if it changes. Even if your lid switch is still good, when your lid is closed it may not be engaging the switch double check that. You can also check at the bottom next to the pump motor wire harness that connects to the motor should be a botton push it to see if it engages sometimes the issue is there, you can taje the harness off to see if there is any arcs present. I hope this helps it's kinda hard to guide without visually seeing what is going on.
Thank you for this information. After the continuity test I ruled out the lid switch by first pushing it down with a pencil then by disconnecting the switch & jumping the connection. I will have to check the motor harness. I will let you know. Thanks again.@@iceblizzard5
Sorry It sent to soon. How did my motor run without that copper arm engaging that spring assembly in the rear of the motor? I wired directly to the copper winding connection into the motor. It wouldn’t work wiring it through the motor switch.
I was at this exact same point today. I took the motor out and direct wired it to an extension cord and it worked, obviously with the motor switch still attached. There was a loud click sound which I assume was that spring-loaded part. I'm still confused as to what it could be. hoping this is it somehow. Back at it again tomorrow.
Very well explained, but my problem was squeaky bearing, bought the replacing motor but. I cud't remove The fan.too tighten. So drill 1/8 hole middle of the bearing by the fan and squirt oil. Now is. Running very quiet again. Any suggestions? I keep the motor.
My dryer motor won’t start when i attach blower fan to it. It only start once i spin shaft with hand . What could be the reason?? If i remove fan then it start spinning automatically
Ok I changed that switch , put it back together , now light in dryer is coming on , but motor still not coming on . Tested start switch (good) and so is the thermal fuse . So could that mean it’s the motor ?
Learning how to fix these things myself, question you said you tested the motor switch but said it was good was it good when you pressed the button on the motor switch and without pressing the motor switch if it was good by pressing it and un pressing it is a possibility that the motor switch was bad
The motor contact was the problem but your explanation of what that switch does is not accurate. It only changes the path of electricity to the starter winding until the motor rpm gets to a speed to throw the centrifugal weight to turn off the starter winding. The likely problem inside the switch was a burnt contact to allow current to flow in start phase. It is very easy to open up the cover to see if the contact is burnt and you can clean it.
Question..if my motor doesn’t spin freely would that be the motor then? I’ve tested all the same things down to this point. Original problem was press start and all I get is a humming. The motor switch has continuity too.
I have a Whirlpool dryer with a computer control board ( CCU ) read the book it will tell you how to test motor there 6.1 ohms if the motor reads that CCU is bad my meter read 0 which indicated that the motor was open I completely tore the dryer down the blue wire at CCU goes through the thermal fuse through the motor blue wire to chassis ground there are two circuits and Run and start if the start windings out it will do nothing, run winding it will hum I am a retired AC very familiar with wiring diagram get the book out study the motor wiring routing I replace the motor it runs fine I had to use a magnifying glass to read the damn thing I should have made a video
my dryer will turn on like normal but it wont spin? my belt is fine so its not the belt. my motor doesnt spin freely like yours does. does that mean its my motor? what do you think it could be? by no means am i a professional with dryers lol im stuck pretty much
Yes it has one located behind the dryer it's small white with two prongs. Take the back of the dryer wall off make sure it's unplug first. Once you locate it disconnected two wires get your multimeter and check for continuity between the two prongs if you got caught a nudity your dryer is still good in that area if it's not it needs to be replaced
To remove the blower wheel I use 1/2 inch drive ratchet with 6 in extension to end of blower 7/16 wrench on the motor shaft remember these are reverse threads you will turn the wheel to the right it will break loose remove the cover in front of a blower wheel going to need the to re thread the wheel on the shaft which can be a pain in the ass 😠 you can get it done 😁
I had a perfectly good motor except for one thing. The centrifugal weights for the start circuit fell out because the springs wore their connection tabs out. Built in obsolescence. If I could get those springs and weights I wouldn’t have to replace the motor.
I watched endless videos covering the door switch, thermal fuse, broken belt sensor, solar flares, etc,,,,,,,, All while letting my wife know I haven't figured out the issue with our dryer, I'm still searching for that one video that relates to our dryer's issue. As soon as I watched your video I knew I hit the jackpot! I own a Maytag MDG3000AWW that would not start yet had power. All components checked out for function and continuity. Thank you so much for sharing your experience, what a huge help in a household with five kids! After day three with the same underware you took us to the promise land. Thanks again, great video!
Thank you my friend for the wonderful comment I appreciate you very much. Thank you for watching my video, you know there are alot of people that share thier videos unfortunately alot of people do not show step by step and help explain they just get to the point, they're alot of people that actually need that extra step to help them solve a problem and I'm so happy that my video was able to help you save your maytag dryer old school is the way to go with appliances in my opinion 😊 have a great day buddy
Same here- I've checked the door switch, the mother board for burned spots, now the thermal fuse- all circuits with the heat element (3 of them) tested with continuity. I was sure it was the thermal fuse. Now, I will look at the drive motor. The dryer quit while it was doing a cycle, so there is a hint of what. Just, which what? It is a challenge for sure. Glad to see this video as another solution.
@@judygredler2598Im about to try the same. Im gonna just get one of amazon and return it if its not a fix. If its not that I’ll just have to bite the bullet.
I took the motor switch apart and found burned contacts... a little filing, a little cleaning, and then re assembly....works like a charm. Thanks
Your very welcome thank you for watching my video 😊
The switch you are showing is a centrifugal switch. In the start position the two springs pull the weights in and move a plastic disc back to activate the start circuit. When the motor starts centrifugal force pulls the weights out and moves the plastic disc away from the start switch. This kills the start circuit. When the motor stops the springs pull the weights in again for the next startup.
exactly. could not have said it better myself.
Tanks.
Yes that's pretty much what i was about to post , note also the two larger red wires on the motor connector these are integrated into the heater element so that the heater only comes on when the motor and centrifugal switch are activated, The black and white wires supply 120 volts to the motor itself, the green is the ground wire.
Why does the start circuit even need to be killed ? I’m wondering why it doesn’t just push in and start and stay pushed in?
THANK YOU!!!! This solved my problem! My brand new motor didn't work. Apparently, it was the motor switch (which I had no idea existed until I saw your video).
You are welcome my friend thank you for watching.
Because of your video, I accidentally fixed my dryer. Let me share how.
My dryer would not start. I checked everything, EVERYTHING, before taking it apart to test the motor. When I had performed the continuity test on the white & blue wire connect and then the white & black wire connect into the motor switch, everything was good. SO!! I did a VOLTAGE TEST where I put a jump wire for the door switch to mimic the door being closed. I put my multimeter on ACV 250. I plugged the dryer in. Set the timer to heat dry and pushed the start switch. BOO-YAH!!! It worked. So then I removed the multimeter probes from the connection and tried the start switch again. It is still working.
APPARENTLY when I had pushed those probes into the wire harness, I snugged up a loose wire. EVERYONE told me that it was VERY rare that a motor would go bad on a Whirlpool dryer, especially a 3 year old dryer.
I was about to load this dryer up and take it to a parts shop to put a new motor in. WHEW!!! Saved a few hundred dollars by checking everything.
This is the only place I have found this information. It may be the cause of the problem I am having (Drum will only start spinning when I press start AND manually rotate the drum). I will check this tomorrow. Many thanks, Bill from Montreal, Canada
"Now I can add this little DEMON to my list" LOL....I'm having the EXACT same problem. I'm glad I found your video as I can relate to your frustration.
The springs in that switch just start to "sag" after a few years so the arm gets stuck. It is simple to open that switch by gently bending that contact a bit and the cover comes off. Then each "leaf spring" with a contact can be pulled out. Just use a small flat blade screw driver to release the locking tab one one contact and pull with plyers. It slides right out. Bend the spring so it has more tension as it did when new. File the contact flat and then put it back in place. If you're cleaver you can do it in place. Sand paper also works. If you did it right, the arm should require more force to move it, so it will snap back in place when the ring moves out of the way.
This was it!!!! Thanks for saving my sanity! Same exact problem. That darn little demon 😈
😊 Your welcome so happy you fix your dryer 💜
Thanks for sharing this video. My 29 year old Magic Chef Dryer had hard time starting, a lot clicking sound like the switch going on and off. Plus the smell of something over heating.
I had to open the top and give it a try a push start and start turning or working. I had to order the whole motor with the switch on it, wasn’t sold separate. That’s half of the cost of a new dryer.
Yes it is I prefer older appliances over the new ones it's cheaper to keep our appliances alive if we take good care of them. I will not buy new appliances because it cost so much to replace a part of the are any questions you have feel free to ask them you for the response 😊
THANK YOU! I only listened to your first few sentences and decided to stop and check the breaker just in case it was that simple! IT WAS! I would have wasted hours before I got around to figuring that out! I happened to be standing in front of the dryer and heard the motor strain. I immediately opened the door but it was too late. It would not hum. I removed the man's tennis shoe that had positioned itself just right to have stopped the drum from turning. Though I removed it and tried to restart the dryer nothing happened. Until your video it never occurred to me that it would have interfered with the breaker box. Though it did not trip the switch, I flipped them on and off, then restarted the dryer. WALLA!
Right on glad you figured it out 😊
Just got done fixing my motor. The weights on the centrifugal switch.... ONe of them lost their tab to hold the spring and the spring went..... Symptom was that the dryer start was intermittent. The weights are made of pot metal. I put the motor on the bench and used a Dremel with a thin metal grinding wheel in order to grind new grooves on the centrifugal weights for the motor. I oiled the new grooves and reinstalled the "lost" spring that was found in the bottom of the dryer. Works like new. Better than new IMO. We'll see how long it lasts but those new grooves are thicker than the old. Another 20 years out of that dryer I would guess.
I just did the same thing. Found a spring laying in the bottom and was able to get the motor to run without the drum but I had to spin the pull to get it going. It would not run with the drum. I took it apart again and saw that it was missing a spring on the clutch. Drilled a hole, looped the spring and good as new.
my son has the same dryer with the same problem as you did, I checked all switches, and they were good now I will go get the motor switch and hopefully will get his dryer going within the net 2 hours Thanks for the video
Your very welcome hope you get it going
I've spent 3 days now learning all about dryers on 93 levels..I think this may just be the 94th level after EVERYTHING else checked out fine ..
Me also.
Thank you for watching my video 😊
Same here. Hoping this works.
this is the first I've heard of the motor switch...and I'm just at the point of pulling motor from old driyer. so glad I found this.!!!! same thing here...power everywhere except. thx again!!!!! let you know what happens...
Thank you for the comment in glad my video help you out yes let me know have a good day 😊
I have a 20 year old Kenmore checked everything door switch, motor, the two thermal fuse, start switch, the M460-G timer control, took the little circuit board out looked for burn marks nothing. Before reconnecting the circuit board, I turned it on..... Worked! just don't have the fancy moisture control which we never used.
Good video. Brother. You got it going on. Most informative for me. Thanks.
Thank you I appreciate your kindness
Gold nugget of knowledge. My dryer wouldn’t turn. Lights, switches, thermal fuse, everything checked out. Pushed start and there is a click heard, like a relay engaged, but the dryer wouldn’t tumble even though the indicators said it was drying. I’ve got the motor out now and I’ll check this switch.
Jason Anderson did you find a fix? I have the same problem
Me too bro
Hello jas, thank you for watching my video were you able to fix your dryer?
That’s right where I’m stuck. Thank you
Usually is, not many people know about this so they trash thier dryer and go buy an expensive dryer thinking that will solve the problem. What they don't know is old school dryers like this will last forever plus the cost is 10x cheaper to find parts and repair if your handy and have a Mechanical Mind know what I mean!
Thank you for this video. I'm like you, it's taking me forever which I checked the Continuity and it was reading good but I didn't check to see if that little switch was stuck. I will do that now because I have checked every single other thing possible from the outlet , plug etc.,
Everything from top to bottom and replace the heating element that was fried . Unfortunately, heating element didn't solve the problem by itself . I'm going to check out the actual switch now. Very helpful video!!!! thank you
Thank you for your help.Step by step you find the problem.That was realy helpfull. Thank you again.
Anytime thank you for watching my video I'm glad it help you out 😊
Awesome thanks. I've checked and cleaned everything else and now I'll check that. Now to again open the top and front of machine.
Hello Marc, your welcome thank you for watching my video, how did this video help you? Were you able to repair your dryer?
@@iceblizzard5 yes fixed my dryer it was the timer.
Good Vdo, thanks, can this centrifugal switch buy separate part ? Or do we have to buy whole new motor assembly ? If yes, what's part number and where can buy it ? Is it easy to disassemble it from motor ?
Pls advise.
also check to see if your unit has a belt switch, if the belt is removed or broke, the circuit opens. unlike your unit you can get it to run, i was cursing untill i moved the tension er and heard a click click each time i raised and lowered it. i did a what dah fuuddd. same issues as you but not my switch. if you check the ohms on the 2 red wires, top and bottom you should have a open circuit and when you close the centrifugal switch the circuits should then be closed. you can open the switch and clean the contacts. if it seem not to work, then try again.
Your story sounds same as mine. I am ordering a new one. If it works you are a god (small g) lol
Thank you guys luck let me know
Hi thanks for the video. What if the motor doesn’t spin freely? I replaced the pulley, and wheels, still the motor won’t turn free when I turn the drum by hand. Please suggest a fix. Should I be replacing the whole motor?
You explain so easy 👍
Thank you 💜
Good stuff my dude 👍🏽. Thanks.
Thank you 😊
More knowledge to your repair arsenal.It'll save time &
aggravation when this occurs again.
Thanks my Bro I have reached as same as your point and I am trying to replace it
hope it is working ❤❤❤😅
From where did you bye the motor switch, please can tall me. Thanks great Vedio.
Thank you for watching my video, you can search the modle number online, Amazon, eBay, used appliances stores, just make sure the modle number is a match.
Great video. Thanks for sharing.
Hello kerrsydotes, thank you for watching my video were you able to fix your dryer?
Thank you friend! You saved my backside! Thank you so much!
did it work for you
@@Redwane-Music yes and no, it did work but broke again and it was fried on the second go so we ended up buying a new dryer. Thank you for your help?
I didn’t think about checking the buddon on the motor switch
Next time I’ll be sure to check the buddon first
I could use your help. I have a Kenmore Model 110.24922200 90 Series washer. After completing one load of wash I started a second. The tub filled with water, agitated then stopped. No matter what setting I put it in nothing happens other then the water will fill. No humming, nothing. I did check the lid switch, it is good, I even jumped it to make sure. I also replaced the timer. I tried tracing the wires but got lost.
Hello, the lid switch is what I was going to ask about, check for continuity if you do open the lid and see if it changes. Even if your lid switch is still good, when your lid is closed it may not be engaging the switch double check that.
You can also check at the bottom next to the pump motor wire harness that connects to the motor should be a botton push it to see if it engages sometimes the issue is there, you can taje the harness off to see if there is any arcs present.
I hope this helps it's kinda hard to guide without visually seeing what is going on.
Thank you for this information. After the continuity test I ruled out the lid switch by first pushing it down with a pencil then by disconnecting the switch & jumping the connection. I will have to check the motor harness. I will let you know. Thanks again.@@iceblizzard5
No, thank you, for sharing 😊.
Thanks for your video. That what i'm looking for exactly what i need . thank you so much
Good job !!
Sorry It sent to soon. How did my motor run without that copper arm engaging that spring assembly in the rear of the motor? I wired directly to the copper winding connection into the motor. It wouldn’t work wiring it through the motor switch.
I was at this exact same point today. I took the motor out and direct wired it to an extension cord and it worked, obviously with the motor switch still attached. There was a loud click sound which I assume was that spring-loaded part. I'm still confused as to what it could be. hoping this is it somehow. Back at it again tomorrow.
Hope you get it going 😊
Very well explained, but my problem was squeaky bearing, bought the replacing motor but. I cud't remove
The fan.too tighten.
So drill 1/8 hole middle of the bearing by the fan and squirt oil.
Now is. Running very quiet again.
Any suggestions?
I keep the motor.
THAT IS NOT HOW THAT PIECE WORKS THATS A CENTRIFUGAL SWITCH
Thank you! I'm going to give this a shot.
Hello Marcus, your welcome how did this video help you out? Were you able to fix your dryer?
It is called JOB SECURITY
My dryer motor won’t start when i attach blower fan to it. It only start once i spin shaft with hand . What could be the reason?? If i remove fan then it start spinning automatically
I took that motor switch off wire the motor direct and it ran. Why did it run when your saying that the copper arm
Can you tell me where I can order the that part I tried looking on Amazon but just the whole motor comes out?
I ordered mine through ebay
Gotta watch those buddons man
Buddons 😂🤣😂🤣
Ok I changed that switch , put it back together , now light in dryer is coming on , but motor still not coming on . Tested start switch (good) and so is the thermal fuse . So could that mean it’s the motor ?
Learning how to fix these things myself, question you said you tested the motor switch but said it was good was it good when you pressed the button on the motor switch and without pressing the motor switch if it was good by pressing it and un pressing it is a possibility that the motor switch was bad
Thanks man
The motor contact was the problem but your explanation of what that switch does is not accurate. It only changes the path of electricity to the starter winding until the motor rpm gets to a speed to throw the centrifugal weight to turn off the starter winding. The likely problem inside the switch was a burnt contact to allow current to flow in start phase. It is very easy to open up the cover to see if the contact is burnt and you can clean it.
I’m confused so you are saying that there is a “start winding” and a second winding? And the start winding is like a separate motor?
Question..if my motor doesn’t spin freely would that be the motor then? I’ve tested all the same things down to this point. Original problem was press start and all I get is a humming. The motor switch has continuity too.
Any luck? I'm guessing bad motor
I have a Whirlpool dryer with a computer control board ( CCU ) read the book it will tell you how to test motor there 6.1 ohms if the motor reads that CCU is bad my meter read 0 which indicated that the motor was open I completely tore the dryer down the blue wire at CCU goes through the thermal fuse through the motor blue wire to chassis ground there are two circuits and Run and start if the start windings out it will do nothing, run winding it will hum I am a retired AC very familiar with wiring diagram get the book out study the motor wiring routing I replace the motor it runs fine I had to use a magnifying glass to read the damn thing I should have made a video
READ MY COMMENTS 😁
I would of removed harnest and plugged it in to xtra motor.. to check it…
my dryer will turn on like normal but it wont spin? my belt is fine so its not the belt. my motor doesnt spin freely like yours does. does that mean its my motor? what do you think it could be? by no means am i a professional with dryers lol im stuck pretty much
It looks like bad bearings.
Check the wall behind the fan if is not rubbing.
I have a GE model DSPR405EA1AA I can't find anything that looks like thermal fuse in it. Is there one?
Yes it has one located behind the dryer it's small white with two prongs. Take the back of the dryer wall off make sure it's unplug first. Once you locate it disconnected two wires get your multimeter and check for continuity between the two prongs if you got caught a nudity your dryer is still good in that area if it's not it needs to be replaced
@@iceblizzard5 you meant continuity?
@@gertis7420 yes thank you stupid voice text
To remove the blower wheel I use 1/2 inch drive ratchet with 6 in extension to end of blower 7/16 wrench on the motor shaft remember these are reverse threads you will turn the wheel to the right it will break loose remove the cover in front of a blower wheel going to need the to re thread the wheel on the shaft which can be a pain in the ass 😠 you can get it done 😁
I had a perfectly good motor except for one thing. The centrifugal weights for the start circuit fell out because the springs wore their connection tabs out. Built in obsolescence. If I could get those springs and weights I wouldn’t have to replace the motor.
Well I drilled two holes in each motor weight and attached two replacement springs. Motor starts like a charm now.
Update: I drilled new holes in the weights for the springs. Installed springs in the new holes. Motor starts perfectly now.
I'm stupider for watching this. This is not troubleshooting.
Its not a motor switch, its a centrifugal switch
That’s right where I’m stuck. Thank you
Hello flucke, thank you for watching my video I see your stuck at this point. Was this the issue with your dryer? Were you able to fix your dryer?