ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 ก.ย. 2015
- Learn to make these handy dandy stands to keep your armature secure while sculpting.
Materials:
Wood board - 1.5 inch x 0.5 inch x 2 ft. (or however long you want)
Bolt - 1.5 inch x 0.25 inch
Nut - 0.25 inch
Greenstuff
Tools:
Masking tape
Ruler
Pencil
Power drill
Drill Bit - 1/4 inch
Hand saw
Scrap wood
X-Acto blade
Website: masonstudios.blogspot.com/
Twitter: / puttypusher
Facebook: / tom.mason.796 - บันเทิง
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A set of wing nuts would make loosening and tightening quicker and easier on these sculpt stands.
The tips for working with Greenstuff were really helpful.
Thanks for another great video Tom! I've watched many of your videos, and I find them very clear and easy to understand.
I just saw this and it is a really neat idea. I will be making one soon. Thanks for sharing this tutorial.
Thanks for the tutorials Tom!!!
A tip to help keep the pieces lined up... Mark a large V across the gap between the two boards, so the gap splits eagh leg of the V in half. Put the same kind of mark on each block/pair. Makes it easy to tell if you have the pieces oriented correctly.
+Chris Salter great tip!
Or just put the bolts in before you cut the wood. You'll have to turn the wood 90 degrees to keep the bolts parallel to the cutting surface.
thanks for the vids !
Thanks, this will be really handy. Your tutorials have made my sculpting so much better! 😀
+elliot parry so glad to hear that.
Hi, thank you for all the amazing work you're doing! I was wondering what kind of lubricant you use for the Green Stuff?
Thanks! I use petrolum jelly. JUST A TINY FILM OF IT ON YOUR TOOL. No blobs :)
The Mechanical Designer (CAD) background bit me when I watched this. I'm terrible when it comes to using power tools (unless it is a vertical milling machine, and even then...). So, I'm currently creating some models in 3D CAD some stands using the specs you list here, sorta. Instead of a 1/4" bolt, I'm using some #10-24 x 1" lg panhead machine screws I happen to have in my garage. I've modeled the part in metric (so each half is 12.7 x 25.4 x 38mm), though, I'm still getting just the right clearances for that #10 screw (I should have used metric fasteners). When I get the parts to work and come off my 3D printer, I'll report back. I call them the Tom Mason Speck stand parts at the moment (speck because of the typo when I saved the first part prototype). Mind if I post the final 3D models on Thingiverse? I will certainly link back to this video if I do.
BTW, I will be printing mine in ABS plastic. Reason being that the you can still bake the polymer clay on the stand if its ABS (the 240 C printing glass temperature is 464 F, well above Sculpy/Fimo polymer clay cooking temps). PLA may or may not be something to use and bake with a miniature on it (reprap.org/wiki/PLA).
That's so cool Michael! Of course you can do that. Let me know when you make the file. I'd love to check it out.
Okay, after five prototypes, here it is!
www.thingiverse.com/thing:2436863
Happy printing, and happy sculpting!
This is awesome! Thank you so much Michael.
Hey Tom - your stuff is off the charts! a couple of questions from a newbie - I want to make larger models as well - say anywhere from 4 - 8 inches tall. Can I scale up the stand and make it work for that? Also can I actually use the same method of adding green stuff first and then doing several layers of femo - or should I work with several layers of green stuff to build up the muscle etc. and then femo for the last few layers? Apologies for being stupid if I am
Hey Wendy. Not stupid at all. These are great questions. You can scale up the armature stand. I've actually made one for larger figures with a few modifications so it isn't a SUPER heavy block of wood. It's a ways down the road, but I do plan to do a video on the stand and larger figures.
You can use many of the same techniques for building up the figure as well. It's actually even easier with larger figures though since you can use cheaper materials to bulk up the figure before laying on any clay or putty. Aluminum foil or cheap bulk putties work great for this. Plus if there is enough texture, you might even be able to get away without using any putty at all (unless you want to).
Hope that helps.
Thanks so much for your reply Tom - I've never been very successful with the foil - it always seems to pull away from the wire armature and from itself and it becomes an unholy freak show! would it work to skin the armature with the green stuff and when it's still tacky apply the foil and then work some more green stuff and then the fimo? Have you used apoxie for sculpting - what about super sculpy firm? Do you bake your sculptures afterward?
That should help, but you might want to try using a cheap self curing putty to bulk up with. Then add the greenstuff layer followed by Fimo. That will allow you to follow the same process I show in my videos. Milliput is rather inexpensive for the amount you get, or there are other cheap plumber putties that can be purchased at almost any hardware store.
Give it a try though. If the foil sticks, that would be my recommendation.
You're a serious good heart ! thanks for being such a supportive creator and artist - we need more of you in this world!!
Maybe it will be more handy to use butterfly nuts, instead of regular ones?
Those work great too.
Thanks, that is really nice. I have a question, why don't you use a wing nut. Wouldn't it be easier to secure?
+IamMakingFood I found the wingnut would get in the way more, both with holding and sometimes the tools. It's pretty minor though and you are correct, it is easier to tighten by hand.
+Tom Mason I see. That makes sense. Thank you!
Hey Tom, great tutorial as always. I have a question (not related to this vid so much). As the in-house sculptor of MERCS how do you, or the company decide which minis will be sculpted by you, and which are done by others (as James V.S. and Savage Forger Minis)? Thanks :)
+Mate Lavotha it's always a juggle. The two main factors are:
1. Is it a piece I want to sculpt?
2. Am I the best choice for this sculpt?
I don't have nearly as much experience with monsters are large creatures. Therefore most of those go to other sculptors. However, as a sculptor, I make it a point to push myself and take on figures outside of my comfort zone. But I always have to keep the schedule in mind. Sometimes that means I have to give up sculpts I'd rather be doing.
Great question! Thanks.
+Tom Mason thanks for answering Tom :)
Can i use fimo instead of green stuff to cover the wood parts ? Because i'm worrying that when i will bake the sculpture it will attacht to the fimo base and i won't be able to get it out of it
No, using FIMO wouldn’t really work. You’re better off just leaving the wood exposed.
Tom Mason thanks 😃
Hello, At the end of the burning process the piece remains stuck or not? I have to cutoffs from the wood
When you put the putty on the top, the wood is stuck together. I just cut it in half and you're good to go.
have you tried other 2 part putties instead of GS?
+Steve Christides yes. I really like ProCreate by Kraftmark.
Do you bake the finished sculpture (when using Fimo) while it's still attached to this stand?
I sure do. The temperature of the oven isn't hot enough to damage or burn the wood. I've been using the same stands for years. Happy sculpting!
+Tom Mason Okay, thanks for the reply. Started working on my first sculpt today, done the armature and greenstuffing so far and it looks just terrible. Everything seems to go wrong, but trying to learn from it so I can improve - assuming I don't become too disheartened by my monstrous result.
It's definitely a difficult medium. DON'T GIVE UP!
Gast mate I was the same but night is always darkest before the dawn!! I started sculpting a beholder and a halfling now I'm trying my hands at a treeman
I decided that I started too small, needed more experience on how the clay/greenstuff handled. So I made a 12cm tall sculpture of the Groke for my daughter. :D
Haven't had the opportunity to start another project yet, but I'm thinking more Moomin characters as some of them actually are tiny.
Thanks for the encouragement!
how long does it generally take for the kneadatite to cure naturally
+husam khan if you are working at room temperature (about 70 degrees F) a full cure is supposed to be around 3 hours. I still like to heat the model a little more just to make sure the putty sets up all the way.
Now the 3 hours is for a full cure. The kneadatite's working time is only about an hour.
Tom Mason thank you for the reply
i called you mr miniature it's what about your little creations
do it yourself , go to Woodprix page and learn how.