I Always use Overture PLA Filaments and never had issues with it. I recently ordered the exact same of TPU wich You have tested. Used your setting and they fit on point ! Thank you for your work by testing out the settings. Saved time for me.
@@PrintPractical The national PLA+ is much cheaper. 3NMAX brand. The equivalent of 9 dollars per kg. And the quality is excellent. (I live in Argentina).
As a fairly new 'novice' to 3d printing, but a rather seasoned electronics nerd.. I got the entire 3d printing process more or less down to the science in a matter of less than a week.. But still, as someone new to the hobby in general. I like the way in which you present your video here, going over all of the nuances which new hobbyists, but not entire n00bs, like to glean out of these instructional videos. New subscriber here. Would like to see this channel grow some. Keep it up.
Paper spools also provide a little extra resistance so the spool doesn't spin too much on its holder and cause the spool to become loose and tangle. I usually aim for them. Definitely a plus, and usually made from recycled materials
I am setting up my Simplify3D software to run TPU on a newly purchased Elegoo Neptune 4 Plus for the first time. I will be attempting to use the TPU to create an overmold for a small electronics case. Judging by the flexibility I have seen on this video I should have no problems stretching the TPU over the case. Now I just have to work out the tolerances for printing it. This was a good place to start, thanks.
Other videos I've watched highlight the importance of drying the TPU at 50*C to 70*C for at least half an hour to an hour preferably, using a filament drying container. There is a lot of moisture that gets absorbed by TPU apparently, this causes stringing issues in other video explanations I saw.
I have found that on the bambu p1p, TPU prints come out better and stronger with zero cooling during normal printing, and 100% cooling for bridging. As for the stringing. Please dry your filament before using. It helps tremendously.
Hey! Talk about timing! I just picked up a P1S over the weekend. I found that drying the filament, using the Generic TPU profile, and changing the retraction to 1.0mm results in incredible prints on my Bambu.
Nice quick vid. I have a roll of TPU that's just been sitting there, while I figure out PLA on my 5 S1 - it printed better before I started messing with everything :) I highly doubt that bridging will ever look great with a flexible filament, but I'm figuring that a quick addition of a single wall under the bridge might help out, so long as the slicer can be configured to bridge on top of that wall before building the remaining lines beside it - just a thought - no idea if it'll work - might have to do multiple walls side-by side, but not touching. If it does work, then it's just a matter of cutting out the wall(s) after it's finished.
sadly the carboard actually takes more thermal energy to make verses the plastic spools. I think what we need is to push spool refills and reloadable spools.
Looks good though I am not a fan of Overture filament especially their PLA. It smelled so bad I could barely breath and the surface of the filament on the roll had these bumps all over it. It clogged quite a bit too. Needless to say I don't use Overature anymore. I don't use PLA the much anyway as I have an enclosure and PLA seems to clog in an enclosure so I just use PETG most of the time. I do have some have TPU which I have been meaning to try, but I was concerned about the fumes. But what I have been viewing online makes me think the fumes is not that much of a concern.
@@PrintPractical Yes, that is what I had. Polymaker apparently makes a high flow tpu for almost twice the price of regular tpu. Have you tried it? They say it can print up to 100mm/s.
Hey, I just started printing TPU but it looks like the layers/walls are not adhering. I might just use this video as a basis to tune my printer. Thanks for the vid
Please tell me how It goes, I’ve been having so many problems with tpu in that printer and I have no idea how to fix it. Please tell me your setting as well. I even spent 60 dollars on upgraded parts and it still doesn’t work which is really disappointing. The problem I’ve been having is the tpu gets bunched up at the gears before it enters the ptfe tubing; I’m assuming it’s because the filament is clogging somwhere. Thank you so much for reading this man.
@@brojoe7455 funny enough that is exactly what is happening to me now. I found some advice that says I should put a 1 mm washer between the spring to give a little weight off the gear. I'll let you know if I resolve.
@@jojojogonzalez alright thank you, I’ve been trying to get new settings in but i haven’t been able to try them out yet because I’m suddenly having another problem. Now the printer is giving me a “homing error” every-time I try to print or home so, I’ll tell you if my setting work, if I can solve that problem first
Great video. The prints came out great! I tried printing with TPU but i found it would stop printing at 3% of the print, any idea why? What was your retraction speed? Again, great video. I'm going to try your settings and hopefully that would work.
My retraction speed was set to the default of 40mm/s. Not sure why your print would stop at 3%… what do you mean it would stop? Is it clogging? Does the printer cancel the print? It’s hard to tell what you mean by the printer stops printing.
@@PrintPractical thanks for replying. There was no clogs or anything. The printer froze. There were no response when I try to cancel the print or move the z access. I just turned off the power to the printer and I was able to move the hot end and remove the print. It wouldn't shut off either. I'll try your setting and see if that would work. Thanks
@@PrintPractical for me it was the knob that regulates the tension to move the filament in, but i also had the problem of "air printing" (extruded but uneven and then it moved but it didnt extrude). Im still looking for some information to make it work. One question, Do you mean length when you say 2 mm retraction?
Awesome video, I have never printed TPU & am extremely nervous about messing up my printer. I have a direct drive Sovol SV01, would the settings you used basically translate over to my printer too? I just want to ensure my settings are dialed in before I attempt to run a print. I generally print in PETG so this is a big difference for me.
Hi, what sofware are you using to generate the different segments with different settings? That looks super usefull for testing new materials or even different brands.
I have this exact same TPU, just in orange. I can't keep the front bow overhangs, from curling in and messing up the print. Any tips? I have a beefy part cooling fan and it was at 60%. Maybe try 100%, but what if that doesn't work? I have an ENder 3 S1 Pro .16mm layer hieght with a .4mm nozzle. Im at 240c or else the lines dont stick good enough. At least this stuff is cheap compared to MaterHackers Pro TPU. lol trial and error.
This a Ender 3 Pro hotend, but with a full metal heat break installed. I would say it’s a full metal hotend because the PTFE tube only goes into the hotend for a few mm
In this video I used a 45mm/s print speed. After some trial and error since this video, I’ve seen that on my setup, 30mm/s seems to work the best. Good luck!
Subscribed. Not real interested in that 3d printing, bought 3d printer, before stood some time , no time, just a toy 😅,now in my rest days started learn f360
this material is a huge headache... I've been trying to print a simple bracelet that I created for my daughter with some writing on it and it's just a mess even when I slow the print way down.
I haven't tried printing any text along the Z axis with this material, I don't think it would be a huge pain though. Did you try tuning your printer for this material? What printer do you have?
never printed TPU, watch this: first 10 seconds in the video: so ive never printed TPU well, makes two of us now, but why should i watch it? your guess is as good as mine then lol.
The spool is biodegradable, the overture spools are made from recycled materials, the other option is plastic spools that never biodegrade and they sit in landfills for all eternity, I would have thought anyone would have known this
I Always use Overture PLA Filaments and never had issues with it.
I recently ordered the exact same of TPU wich You have tested.
Used your setting and they fit on point !
Thank you for your work by testing out the settings.
Saved time for me.
I just did a review on their High Speed TPU, and it’s awesome!
It never ceases to amaze me how expensive TPU is in other countries around the world. I paid the equivalent of 8 dollars for 500Gr.
Wow, here in the US, it’s about 25-30 USD for 1KG
@@PrintPractical The national PLA+ is much cheaper. 3NMAX brand. The equivalent of 9 dollars per kg. And the quality is excellent.
(I live in Argentina).
I live In Hong Kong and I got it for around 5usd for 1kg
@@cosmefulanito5933where do you get this filament
Here in Mexico I got 250g for the equivalent of 8 USD, so it's 1KG for about 32 USD
As a fairly new 'novice' to 3d printing, but a rather seasoned electronics nerd.. I got the entire 3d printing process more or less down to the science in a matter of less than a week.. But still, as someone new to the hobby in general. I like the way in which you present your video here, going over all of the nuances which new hobbyists, but not entire n00bs, like to glean out of these instructional videos. New subscriber here. Would like to see this channel grow some. Keep it up.
Thanks for watching man, really appreciate the comment!
Paper spools also provide a little extra resistance so the spool doesn't spin too much on its holder and cause the spool to become loose and tangle. I usually aim for them. Definitely a plus, and usually made from recycled materials
I cheat and leave a toilet paper roll on my spindle holder. Every spool is cardboard now!!
I am setting up my Simplify3D software to run TPU on a newly purchased Elegoo Neptune 4 Plus for the first time. I will be attempting to use the TPU to create an overmold for a small electronics case. Judging by the flexibility I have seen on this video I should have no problems stretching the TPU over the case. Now I just have to work out the tolerances for printing it. This was a good place to start, thanks.
so many possibilities with flexible parts!!! that is awesome!
Other videos I've watched highlight the importance of drying the TPU at 50*C to 70*C for at least half an hour to an hour preferably, using a filament drying container. There is a lot of moisture that gets absorbed by TPU apparently, this causes stringing issues in other video explanations I saw.
You have n idea how much this helped me you are the printing guru man 😂
appreciate you walking through your process. Very useful!
I have found that on the bambu p1p, TPU prints come out better and stronger with zero cooling during normal printing, and 100% cooling for bridging.
As for the stringing. Please dry your filament before using. It helps tremendously.
Hey! Talk about timing! I just picked up a P1S over the weekend. I found that drying the filament, using the Generic TPU profile, and changing the retraction to 1.0mm results in incredible prints on my Bambu.
Nice quick vid. I have a roll of TPU that's just been sitting there, while I figure out PLA on my 5 S1 - it printed better before I started messing with everything :) I highly doubt that bridging will ever look great with a flexible filament, but I'm figuring that a quick addition of a single wall under the bridge might help out, so long as the slicer can be configured to bridge on top of that wall before building the remaining lines beside it - just a thought - no idea if it'll work - might have to do multiple walls side-by side, but not touching. If it does work, then it's just a matter of cutting out the wall(s) after it's finished.
My fav tpu.. the red prints amazing for w.e. reason.... super strong too! 80% infill dayng near indestructible
sadly the carboard actually takes more thermal energy to make verses the plastic spools. I think what we need is to push spool refills and reloadable spools.
I can't even load it into my Tronxy XY- 2 Pro! Help!
Would have been nice if you listed some of your settings or if you provided your profile.
I cant believe my cr10s pro v2 is printing the same tpu way better than my $4000 direct drive creatbot. The creatbot struggles w tpu and cf nylon
Great informative video, thanks
Glad you enjoyed it! Thanks for watching!
Was thinking about this method for making belts for old tapes and drives.
Really don't know the life span in that form though.
Looks good though I am not a fan of Overture filament especially their PLA. It smelled so bad I could barely breath and the surface of the filament on the roll had these bumps all over it. It clogged quite a bit too. Needless to say I don't use Overature anymore. I don't use PLA the much anyway as I have an enclosure and PLA seems to clog in an enclosure so I just use PETG most of the time.
I do have some have TPU which I have been meaning to try, but I was concerned about the fumes. But what I have been viewing online makes me think the fumes is not that much of a concern.
I really like their TPU, but I’ve had some bad experiences with their PLA, specifically the matte PLA
@@PrintPractical Yes, that is what I had. Polymaker apparently makes a high flow tpu for almost twice the price of regular tpu. Have you tried it? They say it can print up to 100mm/s.
@zk_6312 interesting, no I’ve never tried any of polymakers filaments. I’ll have to give them a shot.
probably fan setting might help.
Hey, I just started printing TPU but it looks like the layers/walls are not adhering. I might just use this video as a basis to tune my printer. Thanks for the vid
Well, did it work?
I have my TPU 99% tunned but bridging I cannot still fix... I have an ender 3 v2 modded for direct drive, klipper and orca slicer.
This was great man, thank you
Can you post your profiles? I'm having trouble tuning and would love a jumping off point.
I'm going to try these settings on a longer lk5 pro
Please tell me how It goes, I’ve been having so many problems with tpu in that printer and I have no idea how to fix it. Please tell me your setting as well. I even spent 60 dollars on upgraded parts and it still doesn’t work which is really disappointing. The problem I’ve been having is the tpu gets bunched up at the gears before it enters the ptfe tubing; I’m assuming it’s because the filament is clogging somwhere. Thank you so much for reading this man.
@@brojoe7455 funny enough that is exactly what is happening to me now. I found some advice that says I should put a 1 mm washer between the spring to give a little weight off the gear. I'll let you know if I resolve.
@@jojojogonzalez alright thank you
@@brojoe7455 it didn't work back to the drawing board. I'll let you know when I overcome this situation
@@jojojogonzalez alright thank you, I’ve been trying to get new settings in but i haven’t been able to try them out yet because I’m suddenly having another problem. Now the printer is giving me a “homing error” every-time I try to print or home so, I’ll tell you if my setting work, if I can solve that problem first
it might make good for making phone cases.
Great video. The prints came out great! I tried printing with TPU but i found it would stop printing at 3% of the print, any idea why? What was your retraction speed? Again, great video. I'm going to try your settings and hopefully that would work.
My retraction speed was set to the default of 40mm/s. Not sure why your print would stop at 3%… what do you mean it would stop? Is it clogging? Does the printer cancel the print? It’s hard to tell what you mean by the printer stops printing.
@@PrintPractical thanks for replying. There was no clogs or anything. The printer froze. There were no response when I try to cancel the print or move the z access. I just turned off the power to the printer and I was able to move the hot end and remove the print. It wouldn't shut off either. I'll try your setting and see if that would work. Thanks
Mine did something similar but mine just shut off
@@PrintPractical for me it was the knob that regulates the tension to move the filament in, but i also had the problem of "air printing" (extruded but uneven and then it moved but it didnt extrude). Im still looking for some information to make it work. One question, Do you mean length when you say 2 mm retraction?
HI What parameters did you use to simplify the 3D with the TPU overture? Thank you
Awesome video, I have never printed TPU & am extremely nervous about messing up my printer. I have a direct drive Sovol SV01, would the settings you used basically translate over to my printer too? I just want to ensure my settings are dialed in before I attempt to run a print. I generally print in PETG so this is a big difference for me.
Did you have any ventilation or filtration? TPU gives toxic fumes when printed.
Is that 95A hardness good for gasket printing?
Hi, what sofware are you using to generate the different segments with different settings? That looks super usefull for testing new materials or even different brands.
try wipe in cura
Hello, how stands TPU in sunny and hot climats?
I have this exact same TPU, just in orange. I can't keep the front bow overhangs, from curling in and messing up the print. Any tips? I have a beefy part cooling fan and it was at 60%. Maybe try 100%, but what if that doesn't work?
I have an ENder 3 S1 Pro .16mm layer hieght with a .4mm nozzle. Im at 240c or else the lines dont stick good enough. At least this stuff is cheap compared to MaterHackers Pro TPU. lol trial and error.
Full metal hotend or ptfe lined hotend? Full metal seems to be harder
This a Ender 3 Pro hotend, but with a full metal heat break installed. I would say it’s a full metal hotend because the PTFE tube only goes into the hotend for a few mm
Does it have to be vacuum sealed at all times, or can I just leave it out
vearyy!! good!! video!! learn me veary much and you are talking whit experisens
So how do you improve the bridging?
Hi when printing with you did you use a Flexibed or a glass one, I have the prima creation nin smooth version?
In this video I have a glass bed, with light amount of hair spray. Now I have a Bambu, and the textured PEI plate works incredibly well for TPU
Hey great video may i ask what print speed you used ;)
In this video I used a 45mm/s print speed. After some trial and error since this video, I’ve seen that on my setup, 30mm/s seems to work the best. Good luck!
Hardness?
Which buildplate did you use?
This printer is an Ender 3 Pro with a plain glass build plate
@@PrintPracticalare there any other buildplates that are compatible with tpu?
@Sackboygaming I’m sure there are a lot, but personally I’ve used glass, textured glass (creality plate), and textured PEI (Bambu P1S)
@@Sackboygaming Gold textured PEI works great. Has to be the gold one which is the natural color. The one dyed black only works okay.
Subscribed. Not real interested in that 3d printing, bought 3d printer, before stood some time , no time, just a toy 😅,now in my rest days started learn f360
Thank you. I think I'll buy a spool.
It’s definitely a fun material to play around with! Thanks for watching!
What slicer are you using?
I use CURA 5.3 currently. Thanks for watching!
this material is a huge headache... I've been trying to print a simple bracelet that I created for my daughter with some writing on it and it's just a mess even when I slow the print way down.
I haven't tried printing any text along the Z axis with this material, I don't think it would be a huge pain though. Did you try tuning your printer for this material? What printer do you have?
Have you dried your filament? 60'C in the oven for an hour
@@ratgreen no I have not. I've thought about purchasing one of those dryers.
Wat is de merk van u TPU
Overture
Viberlogy 30. To prawdziwa guma.
Niestety nie na taka drukarkę.
never printed TPU, watch this:
first 10 seconds in the video: so ive never printed TPU
well, makes two of us now, but why should i watch it? your guess is as good as mine then lol.
How is killing trees better for than enviroment
The spool is biodegradable, the overture spools are made from recycled materials, the other option is plastic spools that never biodegrade and they sit in landfills for all eternity, I would have thought anyone would have known this
wut???? 2:06. All ya all need to take a science class.