How To Edge Joint Wood | The Toolbox Project #1
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 1 ธ.ค. 2024
- In this video, I'll show you how to edge joint the solid wood panels that make up the sides of the box. This is a third technique that differs from the two I have taught in the past, and is definitely my go-to!
If you'd like to know more about this series and the Free Online Woodworking School in general. Go and have a look at the full lesson here:
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SUPPORTING MATERIAL FOR THE LESSON
Edge Joining by Hand
Dovetail Box► freeonlinewood...
Cabinet► freeonlinewood...
Gluing Panels
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Flattening Panels by Hand
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Sizing Panels by Hand
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How To Use a Planer / Jointer
► • How to use a Jointer S...
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Bandsaw vs. Tablesaw
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SUPPORTING MATERIAL FOR THE PROJECT
See all the FREE lessons for this project here:
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Learn more about the Free Online Woodworking School:
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Optional Plans:
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Pre-Planed Project Packs:
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(Perfect for those who don't have access to machinery!)
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Want to build this project yourself? Consider grabbing a project pack from our store! 🪚
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These are pre-machined packs that we process in bulk, meaning we can offer them at an affordable price while still maintaining the accuracy and quality we're known for.
You'll also find material for all the other projects we have taught such as: 👇
The Dovetail Box Project: th-cam.com/play/PLJZTXsmiGZKcVjT6S-0fHGoyH4y7W6riT.html
The Cabinet Project: th-cam.com/play/PLJZTXsmiGZKeNp1Uz0VK0mGbBSCq918w9.html
The Shaker Table Project: th-cam.com/play/PLJZTXsmiGZKfk3NW1gcpTRlIAnr1WvksQ.html
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man, good that you linked to this channel. Otherwise I would never have noticed. You are and will always be one of my favorites in woodworking. greetings from northern Germany, cheers. Rudi
I'm loving seeing new videos from you
This video was perfect timing... I was thinking at the time that tomorrow is the start of a rather ambitious chest of drawers project and was contemplating everything needed for glueing the oak side panels which were stickered and resting post milling. And this perfect tutorial of everything I need to remember pops into my subscription feed. Can report it went splendidly, thank you for the advice..
That's great to hear! Cheers for coming back and telling us!
I had no idea you had a second channel. This makes sense. I'm glad you are still making videos.
I always enjoy watching your videos I always learn something new every time
I feel this was well worth the wait!
Great video thanks Matt!
I just finished this part and my panels are looking nice, probably the best glue-up's I've done thanks to this method.
Can't wait to start on the next part when I have the time.
Great tip on edge jointing. The other two methods you taught worked fine but I was looking for a better way and now I know. Cant wait to try it out.
I’m waiting for no 4 bronze to come back into stock. This has made me jealous
Great videos Matt, thanks. Wow it's quite painstaking when you're dealing with just slightly larger components huh..
Thanks Matt
You nailed the American accent Matt 😐🤣. I enjoy all your content man!!
Perfect American Accent 👌
Hey, at 25:28 you start cutting the waste side at the bandsaw "as close as you dare". I'm wondering why you didn't end up using the planed side instead since it could be used as a reference?
Is it because the band saw wanders? It's what I do with my table saw (which you don't have apparently), so I'm wondering if there's something I'm doing wrong, so your insight would be appreciated.
Thanks in advance.
It is great to see these instructional videos from you again. I’m wondering why when you were edge jointing, with the method you indicated you use 95% of the time, that you did not use your Veritas Shooting board plane? With its design it would be the most stable.
On jointers. Dry fingers are dodgy. I just spit on my hands to get grip. Also the down pressure needs to be in the area of the cutter head. Both in front and back. Hardwood will ride up if you don’t. More so on wide jointers. My jointer has 20 in knives. This allows you to skew cut a joint. Reduces the buzz and does cleaner cuts on figured wood.
The various guards are a pain as they are always in the way. Especially true with euro guard versus the American pork chop.
Do you get snipe when thicknessing with an industrial machine like that? Is that the actual audio level, or did you adjust it down? I've got a much cheaper combo machine from Lumberjack and it's extremely loud, always snipes on thickness mode, so if I were to use it, I'd have to give a good amount of excess thickness and hand plane it after.
How strong is glue compared tp the wood itself.
I don't understand the reason for the slight concave in the middle (spring joint?). Can you please explain? Thanks.
If you put a clamp in the middle of the two boards it will pull the middle tight and everything out from that point.
@@Roct3874 so you don't need to use as many clamps?
@@befmx31 Technically you don't but I always do but it does help having a nice tight glue line if the two edge aren't completely flat for the length of the board.
Sorry for a second question 😜
When you discussed using a tablesaw to cut that long edge square to the big flat edge... Why couldn't you just use your jointer again, referencing the big flat edge - you already did this for the opposite side, and we assume it's square, right?
The jointer would not be able to make the opposite edge parallel, something a table saw could do.
it would give the straight edges which are both square to the reference face this is correct but there is no reason why they'd be parallel to each other. As an extreme example, take a triangle, using the jointer it'll make all edges perpendicular to the face but they're defiantly not parallel to each other. (Hope that helps and I understood your confusion)
@@tom314 yeah it does actually, thanks that really helped me understand something I've never considered before 🙂
Don't you need to properly thickness the boards free of warping before you use that clever third way of edge jointing?
Since the big flat edge is a reference edge, if that's not square, then the narrow edge won't be, right?
I suppose in the ideal world yes, but the induced inaccuracies in the narrow edge will be very very minor. You'd also want to be going down to final thickness as the extra thickness allows for slight warping and offsets during glue up. (Again, hope that helps, I don't mean to answer for Matt but I also know he's not be best at looking at the comments (Sorry Matt :) ))
Just learned that a British guy doing an American impression sounds like an Irishman.
We call them jointers. When I was sniffing around for a vintage wadkin, you guys called em buzz planers or planers for short. When I ran some 18 in oak over my jointer, I realized why you call em Buzz Planers!
For you metric natzis, dims are dims. I don’t care. We often have lots of vintage Starrett which is top flight. It’s imperial.
I got a get of intramikes off eBay cheap. These are micrometers worth thousands for precise metal work. Nobody bid on them cuz they were metric. Dude, a hole is a hole is a hole. Does it matter if I measure it in imperial or metric?
I ran into one bloke who wanted a set of dimensioned drawings, in metric, for a staradivarious violin. Well, the metric system didn’t exist until 400 years after his death and Stradt had no idea of imperial esp with a kings foot depending on which king was in office….I’m, sorry, on the thrown.
My table saw is a Wadkin PK. Only way I would get rid of it is that it won’t fit in my coffin! But the bolts are bloodly whitworth as in BSW and BA.
Ever try buying whitworth wrench’s at the local box store? And I had grind new threading tools for my lathe. You make Wadkin lathe adapters with whitworth, metric and imperial all in one. Why? To irritate the purists.
This metric bs imperial argument is surly the stuff of some very funny TH-cam content.
You Brits devised the imperial system and foisted it upon us, yet you have the nerve to blame us for using it? 😂