I trick I learned when edge joining is to decide ahead of cutting how the boards will go together, mark them and then joint the edges 1 up, then the mating piece down. That way even if the blade is not exactly 90 to the table, the error will be corrected. It's the same thing as when cutting 45s for a frame, as long as the 2 pieces add up to 90 it doesn't matter if they are both exactly 45.
@@mikecurtin9831 Good point, but unless there are several degrees difference or the boards are very wide (or thick in this case) the difference is minor and, in most cases, not noticeable.
Same principle when edge jointing with a handplane. Clamp both boards together with the two 'outside' faces touching and plane the combined edge. If you're slightly off square the error on one edge is the mirror error on the other mating edge.
I first saw your tip about packing tape on cauls to prevent glue sticking when I was first getting into woodworking. One of the best tips ever. Thanks!
This is why I really like your videos. As a "beginner" I don't have a planer or jointer. Nothing worse than seeing a video about something I really want to build and it starts out with " take your pieces to your jointer (or planer)...". Your videos make me feel like I can do anything. Thank you.
YES! This is exactly the issue I've been having lately too. Seems like everything starts off with the expensive equipment that most beginners don't have. This is also the first "jointing without a jointer" video I've seen that's actually easy and simple to follow.
I have struggled with this process a few times and not yet had great results - but eventually, I will get the hang of it. These are helpful tips, thanks for sharing.
Used this video for my first try at making a large 20 inch by 30 inch panel using 2x6's for an 1889 bell stand. Let me say, it came out perfect. Your joining techniques on the table saw worked as instructed. I did use bisquits to help line up and add to the surface area for the glue to adhere. Again, worked like a charm. Great video!!!!!
Steve, it seems like you read my mind this week. I have been contemplating how to successfully join imperfect boards without a jointer and planer. Now I can try it with a bit more confidence. Thx!
As an ex professional qualified restorer & conservator of antique furniture most of the 18 & 19th century furniture panels etc just relied on the glue joint . This bond was made by applying hot animal ( Scotch ) glue to both timber edges , brought together and gently rubbed back & forth until you judge the adhesive is almost set , ensure the boards are flat , aligned etc and then leave to set . These joints will and do last 100 ‘s of years although this type of adhesive is not damp or moisture resistant. I still use this glue and the same technique
That method only works well if the rip fence side of the board is perfectly straight. Use a long level against the fence that moves with the wood to cut the first edge perfectly straight. When you do the other edge use the now perfect edge directly against the fence.
Thank you so much Steve I am making a lift top coffee table from pallet wood, and I need to edge join 4 strips of wood into panels. 4 of them, and all need to be the same size. This vid has given me confidence that I can achieve this I will use the table saw to, not only straighten both edges, but also ensure each piece is the same width.
Thank you for this video, Steve! I recently finished making a new top for a coffee table without a jointer/planer by doing one glue-up at a time, lots of cauls, and lots of clamps. And then lots of sanding! It turned out great.
Hello Steve. I been following you for a good while, and tru this time with Covid 19. A lot of great and fun videos. This video shows how good you are to explain for the one of us, who dont do woodworking so often, but want to learn. Thank you and have a good week. Best wishes from Jan in Norway
I was literally looking up other videos, including your older one today on how to do this. I cant seem to get everything flush. Tomorrow, will be my third attempt at joining some boards. Thank you for the video.
Very good and accurate video. One tip: The pipe clamp jaws are going to cause indentations to the outer edges of this lamination. Best to use a full length very smooth-faced block along each edge and save a lot of cleaning up later. Also, after clamping, use a damp cloth and completely wipe down ALL squeezed out glue or you will have a nightmare when it comes to staining/finishing later on. (Ok, that was 2 tips).
Hey Steve, your videos have helped me a lot getting started with woodworking. I made a jointer jig following one of your videos, why aren't you using that? I thought that if your board isn't perfectly straight, using your rip fence will only make the other side unstraight as well.
Because the board was short is not an issue. The board was in full contact with the fence before it reached the blade so a straight cut can be made. If the board was longer and not fully supported by the fence that is when you can have the problem.
Thank you for showing that jointing can be done without a jointer. I hate it when a video is titled "Easy Way to Make a Yada Yada" , and the second step is "now run the boards through your jointer". My jointer? Don't recall ever having a jointer. Thanks, Steve.
Steve, I usually place both boards into a vice and using a plane plane two edges at the same time. I also plane so there is a very slight gape in about the middle of the boards. First plane to get the boards even then start the plane inside the end of the board and stop before you get to the end. Repeat this a couple of times starting the plane closer to the middle each time and stopping about the same distance from the end. You end up with a very small gap in the middle of the joint. Put glue on the edges of the board and clamp in the middle pulling the the center together, this will draw the ends really tight and negate the need for a gazillion clamps.
Worth noting that though you didn't talk about it, you did alternate the 'inside-outside' grain direction. As you look at the ends of the boards, the grain 'arcs' should alternate back and forth like a sin wave. Seems like it was to keep it from cupping over time, but it was stressed enough by the shop teacher that I have never done it other wise. Love the videos.
I'm from Adelaide, so not under the same restrictions as you are, but still working from home. Sucks that you guys are doing it so tough at the moment. Stay safe, this will pass.
Its now Sunday in Oz, b***dy cold & wet. I usually start with 2 clamps under and one clamp over before getting fancy - a couple of times I had had to duck flying boards when I only had 2 clamps under and tightened them up. Yeah, got to watch tightening clamps too much as well - I was using Bessy K clamps and ended up putting big square dents in the edges of my panels made from hardware store plantation pine, I use less powerful & lighter bar clamps for most of that now - Bessey, Dubuque and generic.
Great video Steve. I’ve a project coming up that will require joining boards. I don’t have a table saw but was hoping to square the edges with my circular saw. I bought a biscuit joiner hoping that will help me line the boards up as I’ve only four clamps. Will likely resort to weight for the vertical pressure.
Question on the joining technique. Using the table saw to trim (flatten) the edges depends entirely on how straight the factory edge of the board is since that's what runs along the table saw fence. But if one edge is "straight enough" to make the new edge straight, isn't that edge also already "straight enough?" In other words, since both edges of the board are factory edges, what do you gain by trimming one of them with the table saw?
You're right. You do need a "good enough" edge for this to work. If the fence side has some contour changes, and is long enough that it hangs off the table when beginning your cut, then the whole board will shift as you push it forward and the contour meets and rides along the fence. If it's a short board, and the entire thing can be held against the fence without any wiggle, then it should still work even if there is some contour on the fence edge. I dont have a jointer, so i just secure my wonky boards on top of another board that i know has a straight edge, and I let that straight edge ride the fence.
A really good, clear instructional video, thank you. A message to those giving this a thumbs down, if it's because the video is too basic then please remember what this channel is called, if it's because you are a noob and don't have 10 clamps to glue up a panel then buy some inexpensive ones for the cauls, don't down vote because you can't do it and, finally, if it's because you don't like the channel? no one forces you to watch. To all of you though, start leaving feedback on WHY you down vote, it can help the channel to grow as much as, if not more than, any praise. Knowing what you could improve is really good information even if you choose not to use it for some reason. You never know, you could change the channel for the better and start liking the videos.
The technical term for when a force causes a section to bow out is buckling. Not talking seatbelts, shoes, belts or pilgrim hats here, It’s an engineering term for a certain way a material can fail. There are various specific reasons why it happens, but when a material is relatively long compared to either the width or thickness , it is going to buckle under pressure in the direction that is narrower if something pushes hard enough on the ends. A visual example would be pushing on the ends of a straight pool noodle or piece of dry spaghetti, but not so hard as to get it to break and create a mess.
The steel of the pipe clamps always leaves black marks at the point of contact with the glue.Always stick some tape or kitchen paper at those points before tightening the clamps.
Good job in general Steve, but if people are using galvanized pipe clamps which are the most common you will end up with terrible staining on your boards you have to put tape between the pipe and the board
These "basic, how to" videos are a truly great idea. Kinda like having your dad looking over your shoulder, making suggestions. Thanks!
True
lol
He should do a "how to basic" video
No slap upside the head either!
I trick I learned when edge joining is to decide ahead of cutting how the boards will go together, mark them and then joint the edges 1 up, then the mating piece down. That way even if the blade is not exactly 90 to the table, the error will be corrected. It's the same thing as when cutting 45s for a frame, as long as the 2 pieces add up to 90 it doesn't matter if they are both exactly 45.
If you miter this way, the angle will be the same, but the cut edges won't line up because they'll be different lengths.
@@mikecurtin9831 Good point, but unless there are several degrees difference or the boards are very wide (or thick in this case) the difference is minor and, in most cases, not noticeable.
Same principle when edge jointing with a handplane. Clamp both boards together with the two 'outside' faces touching and plane the combined edge. If you're slightly off square the error on one edge is the mirror error on the other mating edge.
I’ve purposely cut on a 30’ angle and placed the angle away from first view. You can’t see it at all.
I first saw your tip about packing tape on cauls to prevent glue sticking when I was first getting into woodworking. One of the best tips ever. Thanks!
For anyone who hasn’t watched any of Steve’s course videos, this is very similar to the level of detail in every video of the course
Instructions unclear, we need a specific tightening sequence and N/m torque values (with tolerances)...
@@AttilaAsztalos e r
@@AttilaAsztalos
Cheeky. 😂👍
@@AttilaAsztalos 😂😂😂
This is why I really like your videos. As a "beginner" I don't have a planer or jointer. Nothing worse than seeing a video about something I really want to build and it starts out with " take your pieces to your jointer (or planer)...". Your videos make me feel like I can do anything. Thank you.
YES! This is exactly the issue I've been having lately too. Seems like everything starts off with the expensive equipment that most beginners don't have. This is also the first "jointing without a jointer" video I've seen that's actually easy and simple to follow.
So helpful. I'm about to make a barn door and while the boards are much longer I can tell the techniques used will be immensely useful. Thank you.
Table saw joining works best if you run the concave side against the fence first. Helps prevent rocking as the board is pushed along the fence.
I like how you went back to the basics about joining boards without a jointer and planter. 👍
Steve - you really motivate me with simple speaking and consistently clear, easy to understand videos. Thanks for all you do!
Steve, just wanted to say that your videos have helped me immensely since I started woodworking last year.
Sorry Steve but the sun has just risen on a beautiful winter Thursday here, watching this while I brew my first coffee :) enjoy your summer Wendesday!
Yup, Australia is one day into the future. Well almost one day.
@@jeffk464 yep, we are extra special lol.
I have struggled with this process a few times and not yet had great results - but eventually, I will get the hang of it. These are helpful tips, thanks for sharing.
I've picked up so many great woodworking tips and techniques from you Steve. Thanks.
Used this video for my first try at making a large 20 inch by 30 inch panel using 2x6's for an 1889 bell stand. Let me say, it came out perfect. Your joining techniques on the table saw worked as instructed. I did use bisquits to help line up and add to the surface area for the glue to adhere. Again, worked like a charm. Great video!!!!!
For some reason I love the sound of the boards tapping the tabletop in the woodworking videos!
Thank you for this information. I am approaching a bookshelf project and this video just might save the day
Steve, Australia is 18 hours ahead of you in California so it’s actually Thursday there right now when you uploaded this. 😉
Hand planes are underrated today! You can get second hand ones insanely cheap, and they’ve been effective for centuries. And they’re fun to use!
Watching this Thursday morning in Australia 🇦🇺. Great video Steve 👍.
Steve, it seems like you read my mind this week. I have been contemplating how to successfully join imperfect boards without a jointer and planer. Now I can try it with a bit more confidence. Thx!
Am really excited your helping out Antonio I have been following him over RMRS for years now
I watched many of your instructional videos and I really enjoy them. They are always straight to the point and easy to understand. Thank you.
As an ex professional qualified restorer & conservator of antique furniture most of the 18 & 19th century furniture panels etc just relied on the glue joint . This bond was made by applying hot animal ( Scotch ) glue to both timber edges , brought together and gently rubbed back & forth until you judge the adhesive is almost set , ensure the boards are flat , aligned etc and then leave to set .
These joints will and do last 100 ‘s of years although this type of adhesive is not damp or moisture resistant.
I still use this glue and the same technique
Best Video I have seen for what I am working ON to keep the work "Flat" Thank You.
I learn so much from this gentleman,i do alot of woodwork here in south Africa,thakyou sir
What I like about Steve is the humility and lack of tool snobbery.
That method only works well if the rip fence side of the board is perfectly straight. Use a long level against the fence that moves with the wood to cut the first edge perfectly straight. When you do the other edge use the now perfect edge directly against the fence.
Thank you so much Steve I am making a lift top coffee table from pallet wood, and I need to edge join 4 strips of wood into panels. 4 of them, and all need to be the same size. This vid has given me confidence that I can achieve this I will use the table saw to, not only straighten both edges, but also ensure each piece is the same width.
Thank you for this video, Steve! I recently finished making a new top for a coffee table without a jointer/planer by doing one glue-up at a time, lots of cauls, and lots of clamps. And then lots of sanding! It turned out great.
I love see this
Hello Steve. I been following you for a good while, and tru this time with Covid 19. A lot of great and fun videos. This video shows how good you are to explain for the one of us, who dont do woodworking so often, but want to learn. Thank you and have a good week. Best wishes from Jan in Norway
GREAT TIMING, I’m about to join two boards together, so I was looking in U Tube and this is exactly what I wanted to know, THANKS.
I was literally looking up other videos, including your older one today on how to do this. I cant seem to get everything flush. Tomorrow, will be my third attempt at joining some boards. Thank you for the video.
Good work. I like the way you explain things and point out the stuff that could go wrong. Thanks a bunch.
Who remembers all those ads for THE GRIPPER?
Very pleased to hear him say that out loud. :-)
I sure do. In fact one time....
MICRO-JIG MAKER OF THE GRIPPER!
My favourite is: "Damn it, Jim! I'm a doctor. Not a....... Micro-jig, the maker of the Gripper."
@@Dubs2 LOL!! Keep em coming
@@mikecurtin9831 me me 😍😍😍
Steve - watching you tightening the clamps, wrapping hockey tape around the handle gives you a much better grip and makes it so much easier.
I was doing this over the weekend, the same boards, but 48 inch long. Used the same technique thanks to your previous videos. Thank you!!
Very good and accurate video. One tip: The pipe clamp jaws are going to cause indentations to the outer edges of this lamination. Best to use a full length very smooth-faced block along each edge and save a lot of cleaning up later. Also, after clamping, use a damp cloth and completely wipe down ALL squeezed out glue or you will have a nightmare when it comes to staining/finishing later on. (Ok, that was 2 tips).
I love this, I’ve watched it a few times - thanks Steve
Thanks Steve - not too long - your videos are really helpful and I learn a lot, which will hopefully limit my mistakes and make me a better craftsman.
It's Thursday in Australia. Have a ripper day. All the best, Brian.
Warm supposed Winter Wednesday here in South Africa 👍🏼
I’m ten years late but I’ve been watching you religiously for a month. You rock Steve
Really really enjoyed this video. Went through all the important steps and reminded me of your courses, too :D
In New Zealand it’s winter Thursday. But spring is kinda starting to kick in.
Hey Steve, your videos have helped me a lot getting started with woodworking. I made a jointer jig following one of your videos, why aren't you using that? I thought that if your board isn't perfectly straight, using your rip fence will only make the other side unstraight as well.
I was wondering the same thing. If we can just rip off the fence, why create a jointer jig?
Because the board was short is not an issue. The board was in full contact with the fence before it reached the blade so a straight cut can be made. If the board was longer and not fully supported by the fence that is when you can have the problem.
Yeah, Steve made a subsequent video explaining this, he said he had a lot of people asking the question.
Thank you for showing that jointing can be done without a jointer. I hate it when a video is titled "Easy Way to Make a Yada Yada" , and the second step is "now run the boards through your jointer". My jointer? Don't recall ever having a jointer. Thanks, Steve.
You know Steve, I've been watching your videos for a few years ago, and miraculously you're getting younger and younger
Biscuits work wonders and they're fast and easy! And biscuit joiners are affordable! Norm used em alot!
Cauls... It's amazing that these things have a name
This is a great video for those of s just getting a woodshop set up. Great instruction!!
Great video and awesome explanation along the way. This is going toward the top of my 'to do' list to try out!
Steve, I usually place both boards into a vice and using a plane plane two edges at the same time. I also plane so there is a very slight gape in about the middle of the boards. First plane to get the boards even then start the plane inside the end of the board and stop before you get to the end. Repeat this a couple of times starting the plane closer to the middle each time and stopping about the same distance from the end. You end up with a very small gap in the middle of the joint. Put glue on the edges of the board and clamp in the middle pulling the the center together, this will draw the ends really tight and negate the need for a gazillion clamps.
I smoked a joint while watching this and it left me a little off level, but flat. And hungry. That's life!
It's Wednesday
7 June 1854
Love,
Marty and Doc
In all fairness, I think it’s already Thursday in Australia. 😏
And it was very cold! In Melbourne at any rate. And by very cold, I mean not by American standards
Ive been i lock down since march i think its August
Semper Fi, Marine. USMC, 1969-73
nice video , you have a good aptitude for teaching! ...thanks
Youre like the carpenter dad i've never had
Loved the video watch the last jointing video over and over until i got it right. thanks steve
All the details and walk thru is really valuable, thanks!
You forgot about the biscuit joiner! He needs a biscuit joiner for this!
Haha 🤣
Or a 1500$ festool Domino
Heeheehee 😂
Let the war ignite once more! ☣️☣️☣️☠️
Totally. Or running the table saw along the edge, halfway through the thickness of the boards to create a joint for gluing.
Worth noting that though you didn't talk about it, you did alternate the 'inside-outside' grain direction. As you look at the ends of the boards, the grain 'arcs' should alternate back and forth like a sin wave.
Seems like it was to keep it from cupping over time, but it was stressed enough by the shop teacher that I have never done it other wise.
Love the videos.
It sure is WINTER WEDNESDAY here in Melbourne... Makes Lockdown not so bad!
@@krsv2473 HAHAHAAAHAH - thats the thing about Lockdown - you lose track of what day it is very quickly...
I'm from Adelaide, so not under the same restrictions as you are, but still working from home. Sucks that you guys are doing it so tough at the moment. Stay safe, this will pass.
Its now Sunday in Oz, b***dy cold & wet. I usually start with 2 clamps under and one clamp over before getting fancy - a couple of times I had had to duck flying boards when I only had 2 clamps under and tightened them up. Yeah, got to watch tightening clamps too much as well - I was using Bessy K clamps and ended up putting big square dents in the edges of my panels made from hardware store plantation pine, I use less powerful & lighter bar clamps for most of that now - Bessey, Dubuque and generic.
Very helpful, especially the cauls. Thank you.
Thank you for a clear lesson. Beginner woodworker in need of advice!
ramsey, you absolute life saver.
In Australia it's winter Thurs lol😁 I'm still enjoying these videos
You are such a great teacher.
Great video Steve. I’ve a project coming up that will require joining boards. I don’t have a table saw but was hoping to square the edges with my circular saw. I bought a biscuit joiner hoping that will help me line the boards up as I’ve only four clamps. Will likely resort to weight for the vertical pressure.
Question on the joining technique. Using the table saw to trim (flatten) the edges depends entirely on how straight the factory edge of the board is since that's what runs along the table saw fence. But if one edge is "straight enough" to make the new edge straight, isn't that edge also already "straight enough?" In other words, since both edges of the board are factory edges, what do you gain by trimming one of them with the table saw?
You're right. You do need a "good enough" edge for this to work.
If the fence side has some contour changes, and is long enough that it hangs off the table when beginning your cut, then the whole board will shift as you push it forward and the contour meets and rides along the fence.
If it's a short board, and the entire thing can be held against the fence without any wiggle, then it should still work even if there is some contour on the fence edge.
I dont have a jointer, so i just secure my wonky boards on top of another board that i know has a straight edge, and I let that straight edge ride the fence.
Greetings from a wintery South-Africa!
Super demo Steve, thanks! I think I'm ready to try my first glue up.
I use a bisquet jointer for aligning the boards, works nicely
Winter Thursday as I’m watching this :)
Actually, it's Thursday in australia
actually, its currently Friday in Australia
Liar, it's 11:20pm AEST Thus as I type this in, don't know which bit of Australia you're in.
@@cjfee no its not. It's Friday morning. 😉
Great explanation, Steve!
I like the disappearing glue bottle. And also wonder why a biscuit joint wasn’t used
Hi Steve.. You just get new subscriber from Lombok Island!
Awesome Update Steve ! Very Informative As Always !
I’ve used the packing tape trick. That’s a good tip.
Thank you for all the effort put in this video.. Really apreciate it
Fantastic tips, Steve! Thanks a lot! 😃
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
I didn't realize you were collaborating with Antionio. Awesome!
A really good, clear instructional video, thank you.
A message to those giving this a thumbs down, if it's because the video is too basic then please remember what this channel is called, if it's because you are a noob and don't have 10 clamps to glue up a panel then buy some inexpensive ones for the cauls, don't down vote because you can't do it and, finally, if it's because you don't like the channel? no one forces you to watch.
To all of you though, start leaving feedback on WHY you down vote, it can help the channel to grow as much as, if not more than, any praise. Knowing what you could improve is really good information even if you choose not to use it for some reason. You never know, you could change the channel for the better and start liking the videos.
Warpy mcwarp face. Love it
I really enjoy all your videos thank you.
great tips for newbies
Great video! Would be nice if you could show a clip of Antonio going through the same procedure.
I had a very winter Wednesday here in Australia, complete with snow.
I want to thank you for the easy way your explain thing helping me a lot
Thanks Steve, as usual, great video! BTW, what’s the significance of the fallen star ⭐️ and skull sign 💀 on your wall?
The technical term for when a force causes a section to bow out is buckling. Not talking seatbelts, shoes, belts or pilgrim hats here, It’s an engineering term for a certain way a material can fail. There are various specific reasons why it happens, but when a material is relatively long compared to either the width or thickness , it is going to buckle under pressure in the direction that is narrower if something pushes hard enough on the ends. A visual example would be pushing on the ends of a straight pool noodle or piece of dry spaghetti, but not so hard as to get it to break and create a mess.
The steel of the pipe clamps always leaves black marks at the point of contact with the glue.Always stick some tape or kitchen paper at those points before tightening the clamps.
This is a great descriptive video, thanks!
Some oak flooring with tongue and groove can make some nice panels. I'll have to remember that nest time I buy wood.
thank you @steveramsey...............brilliant vid
Steve, the hair and the henly is a good look.
Normally you would alternate the end grain for each board; one going up the other down. This will reduce cupping of the boards over time.
Good job in general Steve, but if people are using galvanized pipe clamps which are the most common you will end up with terrible staining on your boards you have to put tape between the pipe and the board