Great stuff folks ! Thank you all ! Wonderful to see the family together !! You are blessed !! And so am I !!! Please be safe and God bless you all !!!!!! Eddy
When I got my used x595/45 loader, it came with a Deere weight box. Ground clearance is a big issue and I went with a heavy hitch style setup. I use the weight box when doing loader or snow work around the neighborhood where inclines aren’t an issue and I can use it more like a cargo box. I use chain as added weight in the box, and can carry fuel and other tools. If traveling, or doing yard work I use the heavy hitch. The heavy hitch is also easier to put on and off. The small wood harbor freight furniture dollies work just fine on the Deere weight box.
Made my own out of 1/8" plate and some 1 x 4 solid bar stock and filled it with concrete. Measured at 1500 pounds. Took a few hours cutting and welding.Bought a 4000 pound easymass rear counter weight for 100.00 at auction.
Thanks Tim for the comparison almost bought a ballast box but was concerned about the approach to the trailer as well because this has been a problem will definitely be looking into the heavy hitch system and using the code 👍🏻
Welcome Home Katriel AKA Flip Flop Farmer Great to see you. I was scared she was going to drop one of those heavy hitch weights on her foot when she was lifting them. Tim you made some great points here comparing the box to the suit case weights If I had a tractor and needed weights I would definitely go with that setup over a weight box. This should be a great video for anyone considering what type of weights to get for a utility tractor. A great fun filled fact video. May the lord turn his face on the TTWT Family and give you peace. Have a great week. God Bless!!!
I like the idea of the simplicity of suitcase weights but eventually purchased a ballast box - sand bags is more user friendly with a ballast box and when finished I lower the box onto a small dolly and easily push it under some racking out of the way. Great video as always 🙂
I like the John Deere weight box as it has lots of clearance. Never had any issues that way. Filled mine full of stone dust (called blue stone in some areas). Made a plywood top for it to keep the rain out. And like Tim said, a furniture dolly works wonders for storage.
On our fruit farms we used a 50 gal drum filled with concrete that we ran a steel bar thru for our lower link before we filled it with concrete and for the upper link I welded up some steel and set it into the drum then filled it up with concrete from construction of a new cold storage. It might be a bit too much ballast for Jonny though we’d it on a 2140 Deere
That quick hitch moves it back several inches from the rear wheels which doesn't help when raising the front for loading. The heavy hitch is great but pricey especially when my dealer wouldn't sell the loader without the box. I welded a receiver into my JD box and filled with concrete. I hit it from time to time on dirt mounds when working but really not that often. I don't trailer though so that's a BIG difference. I haven't run the numbers but I would suspect the HH can't compete with raw weight of the factory box with concrete though. I use a $20 Milwaukee furniture dolly available at HD. 1000lb capacity, works great, just have to push a little at first to get it going the right direction.
I agree with your overall assessment on the Titan box. I have one for my BX. I had the same debris from China inside too. The sliding door moves better than yours, but had a lot of rust in this area. I bought this because I could have it in 2 days vs. waiting for the Kubota model, plus had to pay the freight charge on top of that. It has a lot of bad points, but I am just using it when moving mulch or stone once in a while, so it’s good enough for me. I am using 3-4 80# bags of dry concrete mix inside. It sits ok on a Harbor Freight dolly in my garage. I bought a 2” rubber PVC coupling and cut it in half, and inserted each half into each of the tool holes. Protects the tool handles and gives it a finished look too. Will repaint it orange this fall. I am not using a quick hitch so I have a lot of clearance with the 3 point hitch fully raised. Good video!
John Deere box raises 13" off the ground. I have the heavy hitch also and it reduces the length of the tractor which I like. The ballast box does give me extra lift capacity when needed.
Well one thing I can say for the ballast box, we get our fair share of snow and filling with loose sand gives an additional traction option on ice since our entire drive is a hill. Plus if it starts to rust over the years I would rather it takes winter damage than the heavy hitch system which is a small investment of its own.
My compact JD 2305 with unmodified 3 point hitch and Harbor Freight quick hitch will raise the same ballast box 16" (at the rear end) above a level slab.
For 90% of loader work I do. I have either my 6' box scraper or 7.5' TR3 rake to be the counterweight. Since I don't have a quick hitch, implements are closer to the rear of the tractor for better balance.
Heavy Hitch It Is.... I was really considering that Titan Box but this has persueded me to go with the Heavy Hitch with the front bracket option. Thanks for the Great reviews!!
Good to see Katriel back in a video. Will be get an update on her summer travel and work experience? Also I agree with Christy she should give the box back to get it out of here flowerbed. Great video on the ballast options.
I was always taught to back the tractor on the trailer. That would eliminate the problem of scraping the ground. Also is recommended by John Deere in the manual?
The only thing i wanna know is.....How you added more juice to ol johny. Other than that.... The easiest solution with the ballast box would seem to be to re-weld the Lower link and top like brackets lower. That way you could pick it up higher. I like the idea of the ballast box mainly for keeping extra tools, chain saw, Chain, Hand tools, fuel, etc... But if all you need is weight that heavy hitch is more practical.
What about changing the top link to a hydraulic cylinder type top link. That's what I did when my roto-tiller dragged the ground when loading the tractor on my trailer with the tiller attached.
Was thinking about getting one of those Chinese boxes, but Amazon had the green one getting so-so reviews while a red one that appeared completely identical except for the color got stellar reviews. I agree with your assessment though, and will look at either a heavy hitch or a JD BW15073...
Great video. I really like how your showing the approach angles of the 2 different ballast boxes/hitches. I took and fabricated an Olympic weight set bars and weights to add cheap free weight. You can find weight lifting equipment near free and free is always appreciated by the finance committee
we had the ballast box for the jd 748 and use to put two 25ltr tanks of diesel in them yes it used to drag when coming on and off trailor and I know your ball hitch setup is simpler on your truck but if you had an adjusting plate to set the ball hitch higher maybe longer ramps it might not drag
I have adjusting plate on trailer hitch. My trailer manufacturer said to make sure trailer is level when driving when using torsion axles. So I do that.
I want a rear weight that allows a trailer to be towed. The lifting pins have to be high enough to attach it to the tractor but lift to clear the trailer drawbar. I think extending legs is the only answer.
Agree. I wish this comparison would have used the JD ballast box as then several of the mentioned issues would not exist. Don't get me wrong, the HH is a very nice and capable solution but a lot of the issues shown are unique to the Titan implementation.
I do agree the heavy hitch is a lot better system. However for the ones that already has the ballast box. Has anybody thought about relocating the 3 Point pens hire on the box and setting it on a custom built dolly that way you'd have the ground clearance as well as a way to move it around. The dolly would have to be with the wheels sticking out to the side on a frame to make up the difference when you set it down to disconnect but it could be done.
Not everyone uses a quick hitch or quick attach on the back which does allow for more clearance on the back of the tractor using the box. I am one of those. I never really needed one. For a while, the main thing I had attached to the rear was the tiller... and quick attach is pointless in that regard because you still have to get of and attach the PTO shaft. Now that I have added a bunch of other items, this year I will probably get a quick attach to save some time swapping between those things but prior to having all of the things I do now, I saw no real need since I just had a tiller, rear blade, weight box setup... I had thought about getting a quick attach when I got the box. It was actually the clearance thing that caused me to NOT buy the quick attach then. when I got the box because I knew I would not use it with the box at all at that point. Now that I have more stuff and have modded the box, as I explain below, for more clearance, this year I will probably go for it and get the quick attach finally as it should not hinder things at all in this regard. There is a lot more clearance without the quick attach. And for the times I need to use the box, I do not have a need for the quick attach because it is primarily during snow plowing season I had use of the box for full time weight.. In the summer that is not an issue as I am using any number of attachments usually. And when I do use the box, I have a solution I added to handle the clearance problem anyhow. It is very easy to add another set of arms lower than the stock ones on the ballast box and move your pins down to those if using the quick attach mount.... but it also gives you even more height just on the standard 3 point arms too. I.E. I just added another set of arms I can move the two lower pins too if I decided to add the quick attach and then the box on the rear of the tractor. If you can't weld, you can easily find someone around that can weld two new small steel arms with the proper holes to move the pins to if need be. For me at least, the box offers a LOT more use as well, not just for counter weight. One, I use it for carrying rakes and shovels etc. But during harvest, it is great for picking sweet corn because we throw the corn into the box, move to where we shuck it, open the bottom gate and dump it out, then throw all the husks back in as we husk the corn.. once done, take that to our compost and open the door for easy dumping. One of the most recent things we did with it was to use it to pour both gravel and wood chips in a line and in a thickness wanted based on how far we opened the door. In the winter, I just fill it with gravel which easily dumps out after spring arrives. You pointed out the door and it being a pain to open/close. That is a good thing. Not only do you then not lose much of anything you have in the box, it gives YOU the option to adjust it if you want. What I did was grind down just a tad.. and I mean a sliver on both edges then apply a good s=graphite lube that does not evap or rub off easily.. My door opens and closes smooth as silk without losing anything noticeable of smaller particulate material I might put in it.. like grass seed! I pull a seeder BEHIND the box, refilling the seeder from the box as needed.. It works well for fertilizer as well. I am one of those that hates buying one use things. I.E. the attachment and individual weights. If I cannot see a way to use something for more than just a one off thing, I am not going to spend the money on it. Spending a lot of money on a the weight attachment and individual weights only good for that one use when for less money I got the box and can use it for multiple things, for me, was the way to go. I have not had any problems at all with clearance but again, I do not use the quick attach on the box unless I am using it for something like picking corn or a one job thing... and I have mine where I just moved the lower pins down to a second set of arms welded on to give me more bottom clearance and have had no problems at all with clearance.
Tim we have been looking since the FEL arrived H H is a good place they are easy to talk with shipping is great we have a fastenal local about 8 miles now I must just spend the money God Bless you and your family PaK
As for the door on the ballast box not moving freely; you mentioned it was an inexpensive offering from China, so some file or grinder tuning is typically required. Not a big deal, all things considered.
I say to keep the planter ,, just get a nice john deere sticker a big one that fits the front of the box proportionately..and i think it would actually look cool...
I think that when you moved that great big rock a while back you had Many Katriel and Jim's on the back of Johnny. So to me the Heavy Hitch just needs a step on the back that people can jump on to add ballast as needed. One of me or three Katriels.
Lol, great video Tim. I have always wondered why one would go with the ballast box as opposed to using weights and a weight bracket. The weights take up less space and can be used on the front and rear of the tractor with the right mounts.
thats good. by watching the videos I think that anything that you want to do that you would excel in. keep up the good work, but get in some you time too. be safe
Hey Tim idk why someone doesn't make a ballast box with the side facing the tractor longer and the outside shorter and have the bottom on an angle to help with approach angle
I think there should be a "hypothetical example", for entertainment only, of what could have been done to give him a little more juice. Preceded with a huge disclaimer of course.
Tractor steroids? I have put an updated pump on mine. If I remember right the original was like a 5.9 gallon per minute pump but I'm not sure. The updated one is almost 7. And you must change your check valve to go with it as well as the intake to the pump. If this is not done under warranty like my dear dealer did do when my pump got down to one 1.2 gallons per minute. (Yeah it was that low last year). It will be over $2500. And void the warranty. The only reason I got the updated version was all the issues I had with this tractor for the first two years I had it. Actually all three years. And parts availability at the time (still waited 6 weeks). It was in the shop for the same issue again this year. They was blaming the $989 loader valve "Suckling air". They never convince me that a pressure valve could suck air. So I did not let them fix it because that valve was not covered under warranty this year. It did finally revealed its leak the other day. It was right at the screen coming out of the transmission going to this new pump. The hose clamp keeps working loose. I believe the hose is actually a little bit bigger and stiffer than the original. When it gets hot it starts to leak. But I will admit for the first time since I got the tractor. BEFORE it started leaking again it performed the best it's ever performed. In fact the loader was picking up the back of the tractor with the backhoe, filled tires (53lbs/tire), and 50lb wheel weights on each side on it. Plus my 400lbs. Note here: the object I was lifting with my Forks unbeknownst to me was actually stuck in the ground. Otherwise I would not have been picking up that much weight. In fact I'm surprised I didn't break the front axle after I seen what was going on. Anyway I did not pick that up with that tractor I ended up digging it out and then picking it up with a skid steer. But about a week later I noticed that hose leaking again. I'm not sure what I need to do with it. Possibly heavier Duty hose clamps might work. Back to the possible juicing. I don't know if that's what he done.
While the difference between the heavy hitch and the ballast box is stark, I wonder if you could weasel just a little bit more clearance with the ballast box by using the three point linkage instead of the quick hitch which adds another 6" (+/-) in length.
Shopping subcompacts, found your channel, sub'd and now binge watching. Would love to see this comparison redone with function over form now that you have the scales. Which actually provides more down force on the corresponding tires; front/back for example? I would think though lower, the ballast box being further back and filled would provide more ballast than the closer heavy hitch?
Your daughter looks like a mini you.I like the tallest box on my 1025 it beats the back hoe being on.Naturally it does not stick out as far. When backing up was thinking I need some mirrors on the loader bucket ,their is a hole so I think I can mount one each side.
@@TractorTimewithTim I design custom build trucks now, it's the little things 😁😁 Great videos, I enjoy, especially trying to figure out the location you're working each video. What is she studying at Purdue? Boiler up!
Let see..... you could tilt your trailer up a little to make the angle of loading less, mod the ballast box, etc. I don't like liquids in the tires for ballast. 1, it makes tire repairs more expensive, 2, it can rust the rims, 3, both. Carry an external fuel tank for weight? Oh well.... Nice video again.
2. the RimGuard that we have in our tires will NOT rust the rims. I find liquid ballast to be the cheapest ballast possible. Another advantage is that it is not "in the way". It does not protrude in any way like other types of ballast. Just some thoughts :-)
I really appreciate your scriptures at the end of your videos Thank you, Tim. And God bless you and your family.
It was very nice to see Katriel again. She is a great sport about letting you tease her.
Yes, she is. We have a great time together!
Great stuff folks ! Thank you all ! Wonderful to see the family together !! You are blessed !! And so am I !!! Please be safe and God bless you all !!!!!! Eddy
Just got off the phone with Guy in Wyoming..he speaks very highly of ya buddy...cant wait to get out there to see ya!
When I got my used x595/45 loader, it came with a Deere weight box. Ground clearance is a big issue and I went with a heavy hitch style setup. I use the weight box when doing loader or snow work around the neighborhood where inclines aren’t an issue and I can use it more like a cargo box. I use chain as added weight in the box, and can carry fuel and other tools. If traveling, or doing yard work I use the heavy hitch. The heavy hitch is also easier to put on and off. The small wood harbor freight furniture dollies work just fine on the Deere weight box.
Made my own out of 1/8" plate and some 1 x 4 solid bar stock and filled it with concrete. Measured at 1500 pounds. Took a few hours cutting and welding.Bought a 4000 pound easymass rear counter weight for 100.00 at auction.
I made a ballast out of concrete, used pins and flat steel. Its 12Dx24Wx18H 500lb. My 1023 digs like a champ now
I was going to mention that option, but forgot.
Thanks Tim for the comparison almost bought a ballast box but was concerned about the approach to the trailer as well because this has been a problem will definitely be looking into the heavy hitch system and using the code 👍🏻
Interesting video, good seeing the daughter back in a video
Thanks Tim and Katriel, I will be doing the same when I receive my new Kubota. Very helpful.
Welcome Home Katriel AKA Flip Flop Farmer Great to see you. I was scared she was going to drop one of those heavy hitch weights on her foot when she was lifting them. Tim you made some great points here comparing the box to the suit case weights If I had a tractor and needed weights I would definitely go with that setup over a weight box. This should be a great video for anyone considering what type of weights to get for a utility tractor. A great fun filled fact video. May the lord turn his face on the TTWT Family and give you peace. Have a great week. God Bless!!!
Welcome home Katriel. Enjoyed the video. I have that economy ballast box with cement cap block for weight in it. Y'all take care and God bless.
I like the idea of the simplicity of suitcase weights but eventually purchased a ballast box - sand bags is more user friendly with a ballast box and when finished I lower the box onto a small dolly and easily push it under some racking out of the way. Great video as always 🙂
Thank you for your insight with tractor weights.
I like the John Deere weight box as it has lots of clearance. Never had any issues that way. Filled mine full of stone dust (called blue stone in some areas). Made a plywood top for it to keep the rain out. And like Tim said, a furniture dolly works wonders for storage.
Nice video tim and the green box looks good with the flowers,and good to see katriel back 👍
Contest, how many cheeseburgers will fit in the big green box? Extra points if Tim can eat them all:-) Welcome back Katriel!!
The only thing better than going to the farm is having Katriel home from Uni / College!
On our fruit farms we used a 50 gal drum filled with concrete that we ran a steel bar thru for our lower link before we filled it with concrete and for the upper link I welded up some steel and set it into the drum then filled it up with concrete from construction of a new cold storage. It might be a bit too much ballast for Jonny though we’d it on a 2140 Deere
That quick hitch moves it back several inches from the rear wheels which doesn't help when raising the front for loading.
The heavy hitch is great but pricey especially when my dealer wouldn't sell the loader without the box. I welded a receiver into my JD box and filled with concrete. I hit it from time to time on dirt mounds when working but really not that often. I don't trailer though so that's a BIG difference. I haven't run the numbers but I would suspect the HH can't compete with raw weight of the factory box with concrete though.
I use a $20 Milwaukee furniture dolly available at HD. 1000lb capacity, works great, just have to push a little at first to get it going the right direction.
I agree with your overall assessment on the Titan box. I have one for my BX. I had the same debris from China inside too. The sliding door moves better than yours, but had a lot of rust in this area. I bought this because I could have it in 2 days vs. waiting for the Kubota model, plus had to pay the freight charge on top of that. It has a lot of bad points, but I am just using it when moving mulch or stone once in a while, so it’s good enough for me. I am using 3-4 80# bags of dry concrete mix inside. It sits ok on a Harbor Freight dolly in my garage. I bought a 2” rubber PVC coupling and cut it in half, and inserted each half into each of the tool holes. Protects the tool handles and gives it a finished look too. Will repaint it orange this fall. I am not using a quick hitch so I have a lot of clearance with the 3 point hitch fully raised. Good video!
Great to see you, Katriel! Hope school is going great!
Tim KD5VMV School is going well! Just started yesterday!
John Deere box raises 13" off the ground. I have the heavy hitch also and it reduces the length of the tractor which I like. The ballast box does give me extra lift capacity when needed.
One advantage I see with the Heavy Hitch over the ballast box is....that it won't talk back! LOL Great video!
Ha!
Pitchfork and torch holder for storming the castle in your tractor.
I'm glad I saw this video. I have a 2025r coming tomorrow.
Welcome to our channel!
Congratulations!
Thanks for the comparison. Very informative.
Was wondering when Katriel would be back... good to see you again!
Joe Schratz Thanks!
Ballast box height= Angle of DEPARTURE :) :) :) The front is the approach !
Great to see The Band back together!
I also welded some big chain in it before the concrete, so I can lift with bucket
Well one thing I can say for the ballast box, we get our fair share of snow and filling with loose sand gives an additional traction option on ice since our entire drive is a hill. Plus if it starts to rust over the years I would rather it takes winter damage than the heavy hitch system which is a small investment of its own.
My compact JD 2305 with unmodified 3 point hitch and Harbor Freight quick hitch will raise the same ballast box 16" (at the rear end) above a level slab.
Ahh nothing wrong with John Deere colors in the garden. Yellow mums green box. Pure gold
For 90% of loader work I do. I have either my 6' box scraper or 7.5' TR3 rake to be the counterweight. Since I don't have a quick hitch, implements are closer to the rear of the tractor for better balance.
Heavy Hitch It Is.... I was really considering that Titan Box but this has persueded me to go with the Heavy Hitch with the front bracket option. Thanks for the Great reviews!!
Good to see Katriel back in a video. Will be get an update on her summer travel and work experience? Also I agree with Christy she should give the box back to get it out of here flowerbed. Great video on the ballast options.
We’re trying to work in a summer update. It was quite an eventful summer for her.
GO PANTHERS!!! NCHS c/o 96' LOL. Thanks for the video Tim, I'm picking up my 1025R and all of you videos have been a great help.
Congratulations!
Tim yalls little girl is growing up thanks!
I was always taught to back the tractor on the trailer. That would eliminate the problem of scraping the ground. Also is recommended by John Deere in the manual?
The lower pins on the JD ballast box are welded on a bit lower so it sits higher off the ground when raised up.
Yes!!! She’s back!!!
...for a limited time only ...
I built a ply wood box around the door in mine and filled with concrete I use it for chain and hitch storage
Shorten up your top link to tilt the box forward and give you more ground clearance at the back of your box.
The only thing i wanna know is.....How you added more juice to ol johny. Other than that.... The easiest solution with the ballast box would seem to be to re-weld the Lower link and top like brackets lower. That way you could pick it up higher. I like the idea of the ballast box mainly for keeping extra tools, chain saw, Chain, Hand tools, fuel, etc... But if all you need is weight that heavy hitch is more practical.
What about changing the top link to a hydraulic cylinder type top link. That's what I did when my roto-tiller dragged the ground when loading the tractor on my trailer with the tiller attached.
Was thinking about getting one of those Chinese boxes, but Amazon had the green one getting so-so reviews while a red one that appeared completely identical except for the color got stellar reviews. I agree with your assessment though, and will look at either a heavy hitch or a JD BW15073...
Welcome home Katriel
Great video!!! I’ve been looking into ballast for my ford 1310 I’d definitely take the ballast box off your hands for you lol
Great video. I really like how your showing the approach angles of the 2 different ballast boxes/hitches. I took and fabricated an Olympic weight set bars and weights to add cheap free weight. You can find weight lifting equipment near free and free is always appreciated by the finance committee
we had the ballast box for the jd 748 and use to put two 25ltr tanks of diesel in them yes it used to drag when coming on and off trailor and I know your ball hitch setup is simpler on your truck but if you had an adjusting plate to set the ball hitch higher maybe longer ramps it might not drag
I have adjusting plate on trailer hitch. My trailer manufacturer said to make sure trailer is level when driving when using torsion axles. So I do that.
I want a rear weight that allows a trailer to be towed. The lifting pins have to be high enough to attach it to the tractor but lift to clear the trailer drawbar. I think extending legs is the only answer.
Haha, i can imagine Tim sitting in that box :D
since you are hauling johnny with a dump trailer you can lessen the ramp angle by raising the bed till the the ramps are straight to the floor
The hinge is right at the rear of the trailer. It doesn’t help much (if at all). We have tried it.
Well done TTWT
The John Deere ballast box has none of those issues. I filled it with concrete and pvc pipe for shovel holders. Works great.
Agree. I wish this comparison would have used the JD ballast box as then several of the mentioned issues would not exist. Don't get me wrong, the HH is a very nice and capable solution but a lot of the issues shown are unique to the Titan implementation.
I do agree the heavy hitch is a lot better system.
However for the ones that already has the ballast box. Has anybody thought about relocating the 3 Point pens hire on the box and setting it on a custom built dolly that way you'd have the ground clearance as well as a way to move it around. The dolly would have to be with the wheels sticking out to the side on a frame to make up the difference when you set it down to disconnect but it could be done.
Check out the Artillian ballast box dolly. I think it might be what you are looking for.
Not everyone uses a quick hitch or quick attach on the back which does allow for more clearance on the back of the tractor using the box. I am one of those. I never really needed one. For a while, the main thing I had attached to the rear was the tiller... and quick attach is pointless in that regard because you still have to get of and attach the PTO shaft. Now that I have added a bunch of other items, this year I will probably get a quick attach to save some time swapping between those things but prior to having all of the things I do now, I saw no real need since I just had a tiller, rear blade, weight box setup... I had thought about getting a quick attach when I got the box. It was actually the clearance thing that caused me to NOT buy the quick attach then. when I got the box because I knew I would not use it with the box at all at that point.
Now that I have more stuff and have modded the box, as I explain below, for more clearance, this year I will probably go for it and get the quick attach finally as it should not hinder things at all in this regard.
There is a lot more clearance without the quick attach. And for the times I need to use the box, I do not have a need for the quick attach because it is primarily during snow plowing season I had use of the box for full time weight.. In the summer that is not an issue as I am using any number of attachments usually. And when I do use the box, I have a solution I added to handle the clearance problem anyhow.
It is very easy to add another set of arms lower than the stock ones on the ballast box and move your pins down to those if using the quick attach mount.... but it also gives you even more height just on the standard 3 point arms too. I.E. I just added another set of arms I can move the two lower pins too if I decided to add the quick attach and then the box on the rear of the tractor. If you can't weld, you can easily find someone around that can weld two new small steel arms with the proper holes to move the pins to if need be.
For me at least, the box offers a LOT more use as well, not just for counter weight. One, I use it for carrying rakes and shovels etc. But during harvest, it is great for picking sweet corn because we throw the corn into the box, move to where we shuck it, open the bottom gate and dump it out, then throw all the husks back in as we husk the corn.. once done, take that to our compost and open the door for easy dumping. One of the most recent things we did with it was to use it to pour both gravel and wood chips in a line and in a thickness wanted based on how far we opened the door. In the winter, I just fill it with gravel which easily dumps out after spring arrives.
You pointed out the door and it being a pain to open/close. That is a good thing. Not only do you then not lose much of anything you have in the box, it gives YOU the option to adjust it if you want. What I did was grind down just a tad.. and I mean a sliver on both edges then apply a good s=graphite lube that does not evap or rub off easily.. My door opens and closes smooth as silk without losing anything noticeable of smaller particulate material I might put in it.. like grass seed! I pull a seeder BEHIND the box, refilling the seeder from the box as needed.. It works well for fertilizer as well.
I am one of those that hates buying one use things. I.E. the attachment and individual weights. If I cannot see a way to use something for more than just a one off thing, I am not going to spend the money on it. Spending a lot of money on a the weight attachment and individual weights only good for that one use when for less money I got the box and can use it for multiple things, for me, was the way to go.
I have not had any problems at all with clearance but again, I do not use the quick attach on the box unless I am using it for something like picking corn or a one job thing... and I have mine where I just moved the lower pins down to a second set of arms welded on to give me more bottom clearance and have had no problems at all with clearance.
Tim we have been looking since the FEL arrived H H is a good place they are easy to talk with shipping is great we have a fastenal local about 8 miles now I must just spend the money
God Bless you and your family
PaK
1:04 - That's a dog door. When you are ready to ride, whistle for dog, open door, dog gets in, close door, take dog for ride.
I just came here to see Katriel. Hi Katriel!!
The trailer issue might be resolved if you back up a trailer and have the box fit between the ramps.
Great video. I was just looking at the orange version of that one. I do need some rear ballast!
Nice video, Tim. Thumbs up.
Great video guys! Hii Katriel!!
I see your daughter is home and now she gonna to keep in line. I know you two are happy she home couple weeks
Didn't i see her in Italy? You go girl! Good job!
lose the box but Katriel is a keeper😉
what about Jimmy!
Jimmy goes with the box!
Lol poor Jimmy
As for the door on the ballast box not moving freely; you mentioned it was an inexpensive offering from China, so some file or grinder tuning is typically required. Not a big deal, all things considered.
Love you guys haha always make me smile
Always enjoyable. Thanks.
Ya change their diapers, ya feed 'em, ya buy 'em books and send them to school, and they still are only good for ballast! But, cute ballast!
I say to keep the planter ,, just get a nice john deere sticker a big one that fits the front of the box proportionately..and i think it would actually look cool...
Love watching yalls videos wish y’all were in Texas I’d come visit and get y’all to do a few projects for me
I think that when you moved that great big rock a while back you had Many Katriel and Jim's on the back of Johnny. So to me the Heavy Hitch just needs a step on the back that people can jump on to add ballast as needed. One of me or three Katriels.
Lifting those weights in her flip flops could be dangerous if she dropped one on her toes. Glad it went well. Oh and good info in the video..
Or, what does the tiller you already own weigh with a shelf welded on top to store cinder blocks or 50 pound concrete bags
ReGift the ballast box. Give it to Randall for his new BOY coming soon
Lol, great video Tim. I have always wondered why one would go with the ballast box as opposed to using weights and a weight bracket. The weights take up less space and can be used on the front and rear of the tractor with the right mounts.
Good video Tim Ilike the weights better .How much weight can you put on back of little tractor? Thanks Tim for your video's
Love your videos! When you you have time can you do a video on grasshopper front mount mowers and implements?
Hey Tim the back door is because us poor folks use the box for groceries.
Katriel is the star of the show :)
So you did do the modifications:) fun, just did ours.
Was thinking about you. Need to follow up offline.
OK, ......You guys are keeping secrets! :(
hi guys I see your daughter is home from collage. how does she like school. great video guys. god bless
George Gohr Enjoying my junior year so far!
thats good. by watching the videos I think that anything that you want to do that you would excel in. keep up the good work, but get in some you time too. be safe
Hey Tim, do you run the 70lb weights on the Heavy Hitch or the 42lb ones?
Thats only the “angle of approach “ If you’re going backwards, normally the ass dragging factor is called departure angle.
Already been corrected repeatedly on that.
Hey Tim idk why someone doesn't make a ballast box with the side facing the tractor longer and the outside shorter and have the bottom on an angle to help with approach angle
The width is limited by the 3 point hitch lower links and rear tire track width.
I think there should be a "hypothetical example", for entertainment only, of what could have been done to give him a little more juice. Preceded with a huge disclaimer of course.
You made it sound like Johnny has arthrightis, excuse my spelling, great video!
Since you brought it up....how did you juice him up:)
Sorry.
Tractor steroids? I have put an updated pump on mine. If I remember right the original was like a 5.9 gallon per minute pump but I'm not sure. The updated one is almost 7. And you must change your check valve to go with it as well as the intake to the pump. If this is not done under warranty like my dear dealer did do when my pump got down to one 1.2 gallons per minute. (Yeah it was that low last year). It will be over $2500. And void the warranty. The only reason I got the updated version was all the issues I had with this tractor for the first two years I had it. Actually all three years. And parts availability at the time (still waited 6 weeks).
It was in the shop for the same issue again this year. They was blaming the $989 loader valve "Suckling air". They never convince me that a pressure valve could suck air. So I did not let them fix it because that valve was not covered under warranty this year. It did finally revealed its leak the other day. It was right at the screen coming out of the transmission going to this new pump. The hose clamp keeps working loose. I believe the hose is actually a little bit bigger and stiffer than the original. When it gets hot it starts to leak. But I will admit for the first time since I got the tractor. BEFORE it started leaking again it performed the best it's ever performed. In fact the loader was picking up the back of the tractor with the backhoe, filled tires (53lbs/tire), and 50lb wheel weights on each side on it. Plus my 400lbs. Note here: the object I was lifting with my Forks unbeknownst to me was actually stuck in the ground. Otherwise I would not have been picking up that much weight. In fact I'm surprised I didn't break the front axle after I seen what was going on. Anyway I did not pick that up with that tractor I ended up digging it out and then picking it up with a skid steer. But about a week later I noticed that hose leaking again. I'm not sure what I need to do with it. Possibly heavier Duty hose clamps might work.
Back to the possible juicing. I don't know if that's what he done.
Thanks Jonesy
I built my own ballast. It holds solid cement blocks.
While the difference between the heavy hitch and the ballast box is stark, I wonder if you could weasel just a little bit more clearance with the ballast box by using the three point linkage instead of the quick hitch which adds another 6" (+/-) in length.
I think it is about 3 inches in length additional.
I call that front ballast that you and I have 4 square, 3 meals a day plus the full gospel
I do believe they make a seat that mounts in a standard 2 inch reciever hitch... just an idea for you Katriel lol.
Shopping subcompacts, found your channel, sub'd and now binge watching. Would love to see this comparison redone with function over form now that you have the scales. Which actually provides more down force on the corresponding tires; front/back for example? I would think though lower, the ballast box being further back and filled would provide more ballast than the closer heavy hitch?
I gave the ballast box away.
Your daughter looks like a mini you.I like the tallest box on my 1025 it beats the back hoe being on.Naturally it does not stick out as far.
When backing up was thinking I need some mirrors on the loader bucket ,their is a hole so I think I can mount one each side.
I have a link to some suitable mirrors at my amazon store Amazon.com/shop/tractortimewithtim
“Extra juice in the joints” lol turned up your pressure settings too huh.
We call that departure angle at the rear of tractors/trucks.
Yes, as pointed out in earlier comments, I’ve now lost all credibility with truck guys.
@@TractorTimewithTim I design custom build trucks now, it's the little things 😁😁 Great videos, I enjoy, especially trying to figure out the location you're working each video. What is she studying at Purdue? Boiler up!
Ag Economics and Plant Genetics.
Let see..... you could tilt your trailer up a little to make the angle of loading less, mod the ballast box, etc. I don't like liquids in the tires for ballast. 1, it makes tire repairs more expensive, 2, it can rust the rims, 3, both. Carry an external fuel tank for weight? Oh well.... Nice video again.
2. the RimGuard that we have in our tires will NOT rust the rims. I find liquid ballast to be the cheapest ballast possible. Another advantage is that it is not "in the way". It does not protrude in any way like other types of ballast.
Just some thoughts :-)
..and tilting the trailer has almost no effect....due to the hinge location. I wish it did work like that. I would use that truck all of the time!