Completing the Osmosis Repair and Hull Refinishing (Project Lottie Ep9)
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 7 ก.ย. 2024
- In this final episode covering the Contessa 32 Osmosis repair I finally finish the filling and fairing on the hull and apply a Hempel barrier coat. I use a second boat cradle to support the front of the boat enabling me to wok under both of the front cradle pads and use wooden props as before to support the rear of the boat.
While I talk very briefly about the whole process please watch the other videos in this series to get the full story and process of peeling, media blasting and and drying the hull laminate (using heat and vacuum pads. I then refinish the hull with a new skin of glass biax cloth over the hull with epoxy resin, I can then fill and fair the hull using the same resin (thickened with low density filler). I have also had to do a number of hull repairs and fit the new central log transducer housing.
Stay tuned for the final video about Lottie’s bottom where I will dry and repair the rudder, replace the wet foam in the skeg and a number of other tasks.
Note - I am in no way sponsored by FlexiSander but I do like their tools for this sort of job
Note - I am in no way sponsored by Hempel but like their High Protect product
Note - If a manufacturer does want to offer sponsorship or products to try out feel free to get in contact :-)
Many thanks to the owner for giving me permission to create this content based on the refit of his boat.
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About Me
I run a small business called The Solent Boat Butler and spend my days repairing, maintaining and refitting sailing boats (often Contessa 32’s due to my long experience with them). I'm mostly in the central Solent area of the UK. Being a cruising and racing sailor with many thousands of inshore and offshore sea miles logged I like to think that I bring a great deal of real-world experience to my work and help many new (and not so new) boat owners to improve and maintain their boats. When I'm not fixing boats I also provide some own-boat sail training, help owners with deliveries and provide consultancy services to those that are refitting their own boats for cruising or racing.
Facebook - thesolentboatbutler
Instagram - george_the_boat_butler
Website - www.solentboatbutler.co.uk
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Disclaimer
I hope that viewers both enjoy and learn something from my videos but please remember to take the appropriate precautions for any DIY refit works you undertake with appropriate PPE and the correct tools for the job. If you are in any way unsure as to how to go about a project or are unsure if something on your boat is safe please consult a professional.
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Music credit - Bensound.com and TH-cam audio library (Dyala and Quincas Moreira) royalty free music.
It’s a pleasure watching a true professional ply his craft! You should start a school training the next generation.
Really useful to know the process, I just had a pre sale survey on my boat and it looks like it has osmosis issues - so to know the process when negotiating the final price is very helpful
Very well done ! Craftmanship at this level is an absolute pleasure to watch !
Thanks Otto
WOW!!!!!!!!!! and it's not finished. Quality work on a very "sexy" looking boat. Made my day, Many Thanks.
Thanks Ken!
Thanks once again, George. What is so impressive from the customer's point of view is that you focus on the fine detail necessary to achieve a top quality job, but also keep in mind the law of diminishing returns.
Thanks John, important to not waste a clients money but at the same time there is a level of finish/quality that has to be reached. Like everything it’s a balance to get right. I have on occasion been asked to do a “quick and dirty” repair which I know would not last and refuse these jobs or insist that it’s done properly.
What an amazing transformation. It must give you such a sense of satisfaction or you wouldn't insist on perfection and put in so much effort. You certainly chose a good boat to throw your energy into, those Contessa 32's are beautiful and preserving their curves or in fact in this case you have improved them is joy to watch. I can't help thinking though there must be a safe and easier way to support it whilst doing the undersides. A short section of old mast in the mast step and strops secured to something each side along with something through cleats on the stern with props on the topsides as well possibly. I can't believe you would not have thought about it and safety has to be the priority but it seems to add a lot of faffing having to move props. Looking forward to seeing the progress on her. Thank you for the excellent videos.
Thanks Paul, I think a cradle is the safest way. I have my own cradles that are a little more flexible on positioning of pads but in this yard I have to use the yard own cradles.
Your excellent videos took me back to 80s when I owned a wonderful CO32 and removed bottom of skeg, flattened the round chain plate bar, rebuilt rudder, etc as you clearly demonstrated ..no TH-cam then to guide me.😢. Well done. Sadly my sailing days are done but Contessa was 1 of my favourite boats. Sea kindly and very safe
It’s always a pleasure to see a craftsman doing there job. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks
Again, very insightful and interesting and I applaud your attention to detail and craftsmanship - thank you for sharing!
Thanks Ulrich
Magnificent, got hooked watching these episodes. Brilliant work.
What an awesome series, watch all 4 parts in one go. I was wondering, is'nt there some sort of wider cradle with the posts stabilizing a lot higher on the hull? Port aft appears to be almost there. Seems like a real chore to constantly move posts
Moving the supporting prop is a bit of a pain but not a huge issue. I have a different cradle that has longer arms but could not use it in this yard as it’s not compatible with their boat mover.
Serious graft gone into that hull brilliant work 👌🏼
Thanks mate, I have lost belly and built muscle on this job!
You've done such an amazing job on the bottom that the owner will definitely be bringing it back in a year or so to have the topside done.. this boat is going to look and be better than it was from the builder..
Really like this channel.
That you will work alongside owners is a huge plus.
What a star.
Liked and sub’d
Hard graft but impressive result George.😀👍
Hey all, before you plunk the money down on that 32 footer with a great used price and think you are going to paint lipstick on that girl, you need to watch the previous episodes of this video on this hull refit by George, ep 6,7,8. It's the most interesting and best guide on just about all the potential problems you will encounter doing the hull. Great videos on how to refit a safe boat. The hull and rig is your lifesaver, everything else is icing on the cake.
Thanks for the comment, pleased you enjoy the vids
what a fantastic job! may i ask what media has been used for sand blasting the fiber?
Very helpful to see your technique on the fill and sand! Thanks
Amazing work as always.
Thanks Adam
Cheers George another really informative episode 👍
Great work George the finish looks great. I can imagine budgeting for these jobs is a mare as you don’t actually know till your done how long and how much material you’ll use.
Thanks, yes it is not easy, an estimate is given with the proviso that with any old boat there are often (if not always) unknown repairs that need to me made as part of the project. In the case of this boat there was the keel damage in a previous episode and a leaky stern tube. All I can do is keep the customer in the loop on costs on a regular basis.
Anybody that needs to do this should watch your videos, my only comment would be , do you really have to strip the gel coat off and could you just sand it down to fix the blisters , however what a brilliant job , how many man hours
Thanks, I need to work out the final man hours but its very labour intensive if you want a good finish. while it is possible to do localised repairs to blisters on a very blistered bottom with very damp laminate you really need to dry the laminate and that requires a peel. you could sand off the surface but it would take a very very long time and hard to judge how much ,materials has been removed and if it has been done evenly. hope that makes sense.
i also got one of those flexisanders, but in the end i just used a 4 inch squeegee to apply fairing onto the hull after peeling it to bare GRP like you did (got the same peeler as you, fantastic tooll!). my approach was over-applying the fairing so then i just had to knock it down to desired level. i didnt had any osmosis (its a 1962 Pionier 9, pretty lucky i was) but the boat had been regelcoated twice from new, and endless bottom paint applications. i reckon,by the time i fully peel the deck, cockpit, and interior ive probably removed 150 kg of painting material.
Those Pionier 9’s were strongly built boats, very early days for grp construction so they were laid up extra thick.
@@RefitandSail it is said to be the first european grp produced model ever. molded from a wooden hull built by E.G Van de Stadt. molded by Tyler Boat Co and fitted by Southern Ocean Shipyard, both in the UK. they are heavily laid up near the keel but only 6mm thick on the topsides, cockpit (apart from the round (curved) parts where thickness does go up quite a bit, and deck. they guys that molded the hull, understood even in those days, where you had to pile up the stuff and backtrack.
@@pmnfernando I think it is one of the first, there is some debate about who produced the very first GRP hull as a small number of builders were developing the skills abs techniques at the time. Best of luck with your refit works.
Love your work, you'll have to ask Santa for some new arms
Good plan!
Hello, your job is impressive!
Do you think high solid epoxy painting for waterproof is necessery, when you have epoxy laminate layer on hull?
Yes, the barrier is beneficial and important, the epoxy and glass is necessary to replace removed laminate lost in the peel and it all being epoxy is a bonus.
Really very much appreciate you documenting this so thoroughly. I have this job to do on a 30' cat and I don't have a shed to do it in ( tarpaulined tent only ), and I'm a total newbie and at 65yo I'm going to need all the help I can get. have the peeler, have this video of yours , and sail life's series, the full West Systems documentation, Biaxial cloth , slow cure west systems epoxy and their barrier coat and filler additives ( the barrier coat is no longer available in Australia !) - and I so much wish you could come on down under for a working holiday [ ;) ]
I assume you would see the peel ply as essential ? is that because you can't wash down the surface in the shed, or because it (also) makes the surface prep easier ? )
in any case thank you for the video
Pleased you got a lot out of the video and best of luck with the job. The peel ply is not essential but it makes the job easier. I does not save the washing as I use an epoxy that does not suffer from amine blush as West does, but it does provide a good texture for the next coatings to be applied directly onto so saves me sanding (and therefore cleaning) time. Hope that makes sense.
Am hoping to visit down under soon but will definitely be leaving the longboard in the workshop and just have my swimmers and sunscreen in the suitcase!
@@RefitandSail well, looks like I'll have to buy my own orbital flexisander then [ :( ]. Do you find the open mesh abrasive or the paper backed abrasive better for dust collection, and do you have a recommendation as to what grits to get , I was thinking 80 and the 120 but would like your opinion/experience, the shipping from europe is staggering ,! but there is no Australian distributor , so Ill have to get the order right the first time. Im asking as others here , now and in the future, may want to know, but I'm good to go to your email directly if that is what you would prefer.
OZ is a big place , but if you end up being close at all, I'd love to buy you guys a meal and show you around
Cheers
Thanks
@@bluedogozwoofer6737 I mostly used 80 for the fairing and yes the open mesh type is better for extraction. Good luck!
Glad I watched this ,Ive had a look and that hempel looks good especially as it’s solvent free , I think I’m going to use it on my boat👍 , I’ve had look at the data sheet and it’s say it can be over coated without sanding within 12 days @10deg And 5 days @20deg c is this correct ? Thanks
Yes that sounds correct to me for the max overcoating, I have been more concerned with the min overcoating time as I was applying on consecutive days. I’d say that to maximise the bond between the layers you would be best to try and work towards the minimum overcoat time rather than the max. Best of luck.
@@RefitandSail thanks yes that’s a good point
Great job...but I think I missed something in the videos...!? The skeeg didn't have water in it...?
Regards
Hi, thanks, yes I think there is still some water in the foam that is inside the top half of the skeg so while I have dried the laminate using the heat and vac pads I still need to remove the foam, dry the laminate on the inside and then refill with new foam (and fit the new stern tube). I need the engine out to get access to the top of the skeg so I’ll be doing that shortly. I can’t get the engine out while the boat is in the tent.
Nice job. Really. I'm wondering how did you takle the underside of the keel? How did you vacumed, laminated, faired and sanded it... Thanks for sharing! Greetings
Thanks and good question. I had the boat put on two narrow blocks under the keel so I could do as much of the underside of the keel as possible and I could get the heat and vac pad between the blocks, but I can not do where the blocks are without lifting the boat and repositioning them. I need to discuss with the owner if he wants to go to the expense of lifting the boat to reposition the blocks or accept that that there are two very small areas that can not be done right now.
Brilliant videos and workmanship. I am looking at a decent enough 32 with a view to get confident and miles under my belt before a major refit. What kind of budget do you have for this project. Similar to a rebuild at the Roger’s yard?
Hi Richard, thanks for the kind comment, I’d be interested to hear which boat you are looking at as I’m doing a pre-purchase inspection on a 32 this weekend and have good knowledge of another couple of co32’s for sale (including a “spare” one I have). I have agreed not to discuss refit costs online with the owner of Lottie and there are so many variables on a refit that it really needs a direct conversation but you are welcome to contact me directly to discuss. George(at)solentboatbutler.co.uk
@@RefitandSail nice one, there are three in Scotland at the minute from £18-35k, all with assort bits done or to be done..
Will give you a shout once I’ve had the first look. I’ve seen JR refit budgets so that level of resto would be on the long list. Your show and the Coric refit are excellent for a guide on what will need doing over the life of the boat.
Very informative and interesting, as always. I'm almost hesitant to ask, but what would an osmosis repair on a CO32 like this actually cost between labor and materials?
Hi, thanks for the comment, I ave agreed with the owner not to share the cost of the refit works online but as we have spoken before drop me an email
L I K E 👍 👍👍👍👍 💯 💯 💯🤩🤩🤩🤩🤩
Some constructive criticism, stop repeating explanations regarding tools etc, you already explained what tools you use in the previous vid, for those who want to know or missed they can go back and watch.🤔🤔👍🍺
So this isnt your boat?
No this is a clients boat but with his permission I am able to share the work being done.