So I got one of these off of temu, only it's not a neotec. And the timing on it appears to be quite fine, based on how it sounds in the video I did. If you'd be willing to listen to it for me, would it benefit from a timing Advance?
Again...excellent information...you briefly discussed some topics I plan to demonstrate in great detail...who knows what that might be...good job Mr. Doug...
How does a 365 and 372 share same crankcase. But the 066 doesn't seem to do well with a big bore supposedly? And I know there not the same. But is the same concept.
Thanks for the video. My NH872 did not like a full keyway worth of advance. The saw would not start, only let out a few loud pops. I filed the key down to 1/2 thickness and advanced by that amount, saw seems to run great now.
@@IndianaDoug That makes sense, I just bought the saw a month ago. It seemed to wake up quite a bit after the first tank of gas, and the bump in the timing has made it a little more responsive. I am wondering if a muffler mod would wake it up further.
@@battyice should just be a baffle inside. Drill a large hole in the front of it, then put a few more fish gill type cuts on the other side of muffler and you’re set👍🏻
Scratch that, did the timing advance on the 895 and it's still a dog. It has a hyway pop up piston/cylinder, walbro wj carb, and still seems like it just struggles in the cut. I'm at a loss now, bought a holzfforma g395 and right out of the box was a much better saw all around, however I would like to find the root of the problem with the 895.
Doug you know alot about the saws and i appreciate the education. Does the ns872i need advanced also? I just got one in the mail a couple days ago and id like tk get the full potential from it
@@IndianaDoug I ran it a couple days ago at my dad's farm and it did really well but I was wanting to get all I could out of it so yesterday I pulled the piston and weighed it, lightened up a pop up piston till it weighed the same and put it in. Put it back together and it sounds a little meaner but I won't really know till I get back to the farm and see how it cuts
@@IndianaDoug I was wondering if you have any experience with the carbide tip chains. I've bought 3, one for my 12 inch saw, one for my 18 inch 550xp mark2, and one for my 25 inch ns872i. I usually use Stihl or husky c83 but I'm anxious to see how the carbide chains perform. It will be three weeks before I'm back at the farm but it's gonna be interesting to see how the pop up piston does and also the new type chains. Any info you have is appreciated and thanks for the educational videos
@@IndianaDoug I have a friend that's bought a couple laser machines and is looking to do custom saw engraving like on bars and maybe plastics if you end up wanting stuff like that done let me know and I can get you his info. He's also wanting to do some custom stuff to piston tops as well
Wait, is it really this simple to do a timing advance? The key isn't in need of filing nor the fly wheel? You can just straight up, take the key off, and advance the time?
Yes, you’ve been deceived🤣. Jokes aside, on this and many other models, yes it’s really that easy! Now some manufacturers depending on model, year, etc. have different setups. For example my ps series Dolmars have a “nub” cast into the flywheel. So to mod these you need to file it off.
Interesting video .I have farmertec 372 kit saws and have timing issues. What I have found the flywheels can be way off either too advanced or too retarded. A keyway width might be too much advance. You will know it is too advanced is at full throttle in the wood it sounds like popcorn or misfires aka detonation. Too far retarded and at full throttle it rev up and down like a rev limiter. So I had advanced the timing 10* .At full throttle out of the wood and let off the throttle it will back fire too retarded timing still I almost have it figured out. I will try 3* .
If I advance it one half flywheel, will it run in reverse? Fun fact two strokes can catch on the off rhythm... which blows your brain when it happens. I've had it happen twice and I was NOT on drugs.
I really need to get to work on my clone wars saws. Just got my 660 a few days ago. Not a lot of time left before we will all be racing! I'll be running the FarmHac!
I don’t want to advise on this bc I don’t want blamed for any mishaps. At worse, the saw will pop and crack and not run correctly. All I can say is, I’ve seen as much as 1.5 key widths advanced personally. You just have to play with it.
The key and keyway are there (on this model) for indexing only, so you’re ignition timing is on par to factory specs. The key/keyway do not secure anything. The crank is on a taper and when cranked down with the nut, is secure.
I would like to see why everyone says the chinese 372 clone saws need their timing advanced via the removal of the flywheel key and advancing it one key width! Where is the difference coming from the chinese flywheel key notch placement? Or is it in crank notch or coil.. Husqvarna uses a built in key in their flywheels at least the x torque ones do.
Good video doug thanks for the shout out
Thanks for the help👍🏻
@@IndianaDoug any time
Did this on mine and I was finally able to achieve the top rpm I wanted
Good deal! Thanks for letting us know.
Great tip👍🏻 will file it back in my mind for if i get or work on one of those saws!
Have done this with two NH872’s really woke them both up.
Yes they like that extra air.
Great video, as always!
Good tune-up tip for the community, so you can get the most out of your chainsaw. Be blessed. My friend.
So I got one of these off of temu, only it's not a neotec. And the timing on it appears to be quite fine, based on how it sounds in the video I did.
If you'd be willing to listen to it for me, would it benefit from a timing Advance?
Always try an advance regardless. 2-4 degrees is pretty normal.
Thanks for taking the time to make this video
My pleasure!
Yep keys are soft, was one of the most common repairs to lawnmowers when I worked in saw shop.
Again...excellent information...you briefly discussed some topics I plan to demonstrate in great detail...who knows what that might be...good job Mr. Doug...
I learn from the best🤷🏻♂️
@@IndianaDoug Brisco and Bell are great...I agree...
@@Brian2bears ok Mr. Humble🤣
I haven’t released that saw yet !!!!
How does a 365 and 372 share same crankcase. But the 066 doesn't seem to do well with a big bore supposedly? And I know there not the same. But is the same concept.
Great info brother thank u!
Thanks for the video. My NH872 did not like a full keyway worth of advance. The saw would not start, only let out a few loud pops. I filed the key down to 1/2 thickness and advanced by that amount, saw seems to run great now.
I’d say you have one of the newer gen 872’s then. Problem is not as prevalent in these. The 1st series saws were way out(like in video)
@@IndianaDoug That makes sense, I just bought the saw a month ago. It seemed to wake up quite a bit after the first tank of gas, and the bump in the timing has made it a little more responsive. I am wondering if a muffler mod would wake it up further.
@@battyice should just be a baffle inside. Drill a large hole in the front of it, then put a few more fish gill type cuts on the other side of muffler and you’re set👍🏻
that key is called a woodruff wedge/key
So do you cut a new groove for the Woodruff key or run it without one?
No sir. The key does do anything but index. Tapered shafts will not move when the nut tightens down the flywheel. Basically, you don’t need the key
How do you like this saw? I’ve been tossed between this nh865 saw and the ns872. I don’t know what one is better
I ended up putting a 372 top end on this one. Way better
That was the problem with my NH895 Doug. This advance also works for 895 as well.
Scratch that, did the timing advance on the 895 and it's still a dog. It has a hyway pop up piston/cylinder, walbro wj carb, and still seems like it just struggles in the cut. I'm at a loss now, bought a holzfforma g395 and right out of the box was a much better saw all around, however I would like to find the root of the problem with the 895.
Good stuff!
so wonderful beautiful video friend Doug i love it see so nice
Doug you know alot about the saws and i appreciate the education. Does the ns872i need advanced also? I just got one in the mail a couple days ago and id like tk get the full potential from it
I’ve never needed to advance a Stihl clone
@@IndianaDoug I ran it a couple days ago at my dad's farm and it did really well but I was wanting to get all I could out of it so yesterday I pulled the piston and weighed it, lightened up a pop up piston till it weighed the same and put it in. Put it back together and it sounds a little meaner but I won't really know till I get back to the farm and see how it cuts
@@matthewknight5641 nice, good luck👍🏻
@@IndianaDoug I was wondering if you have any experience with the carbide tip chains. I've bought 3, one for my 12 inch saw, one for my 18 inch 550xp mark2, and one for my 25 inch ns872i. I usually use Stihl or husky c83 but I'm anxious to see how the carbide chains perform. It will be three weeks before I'm back at the farm but it's gonna be interesting to see how the pop up piston does and also the new type chains. Any info you have is appreciated and thanks for the educational videos
@@IndianaDoug I have a friend that's bought a couple laser machines and is looking to do custom saw engraving like on bars and maybe plastics if you end up wanting stuff like that done let me know and I can get you his info. He's also wanting to do some custom stuff to piston tops as well
Do i put the flywheel on without the little half moon😊
You can if you tighten it well enough.
Good class thanks 😊 sawrus
So I don’t put the key back in?
Doesn’t matter if it clocked correctly when tightened.
Wait, is it really this simple to do a timing advance? The key isn't in need of filing nor the fly wheel?
You can just straight up, take the key off, and advance the time?
Yes, you’ve been deceived🤣. Jokes aside, on this and many other models, yes it’s really that easy! Now some manufacturers depending on model, year, etc. have different setups. For example my ps series Dolmars have a “nub” cast into the flywheel. So to mod these you need to file it off.
Like I said in the video, the key is there for indexing. It doesn’t hold anything together.
👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻 Nice video brother! As always!
I appreciate that Kirk👍🏻
😎😎😎😎
Greetings from Germany Peter Husqvarna-Pit 😎
Interesting video .I have farmertec 372 kit saws and have timing issues. What I have found the flywheels can be way off either too advanced or too retarded. A keyway width might be too much advance. You will know it is too advanced is at full throttle in the wood it sounds like popcorn or misfires aka detonation. Too far retarded and at full throttle it rev up and down like a rev limiter. So I had advanced the timing 10* .At full throttle out of the wood and let off the throttle it will back fire too retarded timing still I almost have it figured out. I will try 3* .
Can I do this timing advance to top handle model or is it worth it ?
Not sure on those
Is this something to consider on an NH843? 🧐
Doesn’t need any that I’ve noticed, but haven’t tried.
Im gonna try that on my noker 381 and see how it performs
There are exceptions I guess😆
Good info.
I thought I heard that saw scream when you goosed it. It said “ I NEED A MUFFLER MOD”😊
No kidding, badly
I would be so worried about that flywheel moving around without the key.
Tourqe it to 25 Ft lbs I just Advanced the timing on one
If I advance it one half flywheel, will it run in reverse? Fun fact two strokes can catch on the off rhythm... which blows your brain when it happens. I've had it happen twice and I was NOT on drugs.
🤣 I’ve seen it too, pretty cool.
I really need to get to work on my clone wars saws. Just got my 660 a few days ago. Not a lot of time left before we will all be racing! I'll be running the FarmHac!
Let’s go!!!!!!!!
Went 1 keyway advanced. You mentioned possibly going 1 1/2 advance. How will I know if I have gone too far?
I don’t want to advise on this bc I don’t want blamed for any mishaps. At worse, the saw will pop and crack and not run correctly. All I can say is, I’ve seen as much as 1.5 key widths advanced personally. You just have to play with it.
Won’t the crank have to be cut to hold the key way or does just tightening down the nut on the fly wheel hold it in place, what am I missing here
The key and keyway are there (on this model) for indexing only, so you’re ignition timing is on par to factory specs. The key/keyway do not secure anything. The crank is on a taper and when cranked down with the nut, is secure.
Wow a good increase in hp 👍
Took mine one key and wouldn’t run just fyi. I found about a half a key did good
Good to to know. I’ve seen as much as 1.5 the key width on these models. Mine seems to like exactly one key width advanced.
I think I’d rather just stick the Husky crank & rod in mine and put a pop-up piston while I’m at it. I’ve seen them pretty cheap.
If you have that, might as well find an OEM case and build that. These clones are only around $150
There are offset woodruff keys out on the market.
I would like to see why everyone says the chinese 372 clone saws need their timing advanced via the removal of the flywheel key and advancing it one key width! Where is the difference coming from the chinese flywheel key notch placement? Or is it in crank notch or coil.. Husqvarna uses a built in key in their flywheels at least the x torque ones do.
The early 365/372 Neotec clones had incorrect timing in the crank keyway.
👍
I'm going to do this to mine. It's a dog!
It’ll wake it up guaranteed
Send me the saw I'll fix it
Let's be real Doug, nobody is complaining about the way we ALL remove flywheels except the suckers who bought the removal tool. 😅
Truth!😆