Those old coils have oil in them when it gets hot they can fail till they cool off. I had a Honda Motorcycle that I spent a ton of money on trying to get it to run right till an old timer told me about the coils. Changed it and no further problems.
Nice video. And what an intro! Ever considered painting that engine including inside? Of so, maybe consider ER44 or Glyptal. A great car to drive daily.
That coil replacement is exactly the job I did on my 1941 Chrysler last year, with about the same symptoms you had. I didn't conk out on the freeway, though -- that's no fun -- but I did have a lot of hesitation from idle, dying on a hot day, despite proper fuel flow, good plugs and wires, points fine, all that. I had also been using an old "through the firewall" original NOS coil. The new 6 volt coils are cheap, reliable, easy to find. I can't believe it took me as long as it did to figure out to replace the coil. The through-the-firewall coils are big bucks, and should only be for show among people who can tell the difference.
Nice car. Take good care of it. It will give you miles & miles of good service. You might go with some L78 X 15 tires & rims for a firmer grip plus a smoother ride. Love the color too. With old cars, I carry fan belts, points,plugs,coil, headlight, various light bulbs, fuses, tools to do he work with, that includes a timing light, & a gallon of water in the trunk. Back then, drivers weren't crazy like today. Changing main bearings out on the side of the road is a real bitch in the winter at night.
My aunt's neighbor had that problem with his 59 Ford wagon. After driving it for more than about 30 minutes on a hot day, it would die, but after some minutes, it would fire right up. Nothing seemed to be wrong with the ignition system, so I took it out on the road with a spare ignition coil with me. Sure enough, it eventually died. There was no spark at the plugs, so I waited awhile, then tested it again, sparked fine, so I replaced his coil. Coils sometimes do that when they get old.
Had to be the heat shield missing above the fuel Pump. Craziest thing ever nothing will work except the proper factory heat shield that sets right on top of the fuel pump .
Hi Keith I own a 1938 desoto S5 with the flathead inline 6 engine with 6 v system mine bucks and sputters and stalls out after driving it for some time impossible to get it running afterwards have to wait about an hour or more for it to start and make it home Do you happen to know what ignition coil would work with mine?
Really enjoy your videos. Looking for advice. I have a 55 Plymouth 230 flat six with a carter BB one barrel. With engine at idle and operating temp engine idles good. When adjusting idle mixture screw I see no difference in or out. On the road runs smooth to about 50 MPH, and that's it. As I continue to try to accelerate nothing happens. I feel like there is some obstruction in the carb. If I would pull the carb, dismantle, and soak in a vat of carb cleaner would that loosen the obstruction? How would you tackle this problem? Thanks in advance.
Thanks. You may have an air leak in your carb likely. Also main jet could be plugged. Pull carb. Acquire carb kit. Open up carb and plugs. Dismantle. Soak/clean carb. Reassemble. Check fuel pressure after fuel pump. All new gaskets seals parts etc in carb. fire up car. Set dwell. Set idle. Set air/fuel mixture. Use vacuum gauge. Set timing. Perform compression test. Go from there. That’s my best guess from 7000 miles away.
Nice to see the Chrysler driving around the beautiful countryside. I'm sure folks living in big cities appreciate it ! Now some criticism: PLEASE STOP the fast-motion, sped up video ! It's hard to watch, silly and makes me want to shut your video off. Which is what I did at the end. There is no need for it.
Thanks for the feedback Ron. I have reasons why I speed up some of my content. It’s not meant to be silly nor entertaining. My goal was to educate people who have little automotive experience. Someone new to rebuilding an engine may not know to properly scrub down a block completely, after getting it back from the machine shop. They may not know that you should blow out any remaining water. Or know that compressed air works well to get in every orifice. There is little technical details to learn or talk about in these actions. So I was thinking “why put my audience thru 20 mins of scrubbing a block followed by five mins of blowing air at it, in real time”? I was thinking the visual says a lot, quickly. Versus 20 mins of boredom. I suspect many would have shut it off too, if it were in real time. The block cleaning at home is a very important a step I wanted to point out. Just wanted to present it quickly. I’ll consider your comments for future video production. Thx.
@@keithsgarage5831 - Actually, no. People that don't want to watch you cleaning and blowing out the crevices can just click ahead in the video. Or what I've seen in other videos is showing about 20 seconds of the action being performed in real time. Then use a transition, like a dissolve, to move ahead in time a few minutes. Then show about ten more seconds, then dissolve again, etc., until the job is completed. Someone that has never rebuilt an engine will learn a lot by seeing things done in real time. I include myself in that group. In the driving sequence, you also sped up the video. That made me dizzy and resulted in a migraine headache. That is a sure fire way of losing viewership and getting a negative rating for your video.
Greetings from Kelowna. Gorgeous car you have there!
Those old coils have oil in them when it gets hot they can fail till they cool off. I had a Honda Motorcycle that I spent a ton of money on trying to get it to run right till an old timer told me about the coils. Changed it and no further problems.
I have Overdrive in my 1950 Plymouth. What a difference on the Highway !
I've always wondered what these cars are like with overdrive. Thanks for taking us for a ride.
Excellent video
Nice video. And what an intro!
Ever considered painting that engine including inside? Of so, maybe consider ER44 or Glyptal.
A great car to drive daily.
That coil replacement is exactly the job I did on my 1941 Chrysler last year, with about the same symptoms you had. I didn't conk out on the freeway, though -- that's no fun -- but I did have a lot of hesitation from idle, dying on a hot day, despite proper fuel flow, good plugs and wires, points fine, all that. I had also been using an old "through the firewall" original NOS coil. The new 6 volt coils are cheap, reliable, easy to find. I can't believe it took me as long as it did to figure out to replace the coil. The through-the-firewall coils are big bucks, and should only be for show among people who can tell the difference.
Excellent video!, thank you for posting it...just a tip: you have gas and clutch pedals horizontal, they go vertical.
That is one nifty car 👍👍👏👏👏👏👏👏
Nice car. Take good care of it. It will give you miles & miles of good service. You might go with some L78 X 15 tires & rims for a firmer grip plus a smoother ride. Love the color too. With old cars, I carry fan belts, points,plugs,coil, headlight, various light bulbs, fuses, tools to do he work with, that includes a timing light, & a gallon of water in the trunk. Back then, drivers weren't crazy like today. Changing main bearings out on the side of the road is a real bitch in the winter at night.
Cool! Probably quicker than an '82 Coupe DeVille!!
The 82 Cad was SLOW, so this 38 Chrysler probably is the quicker of the two, despite being just a 6.
I think I would lose the garage door openers from the visor their going to leave a mark.
My aunt's neighbor had that problem with his 59 Ford wagon. After driving it for more than about 30 minutes on a hot day, it would die, but after some minutes, it would fire right up. Nothing seemed to be wrong with the ignition system, so I took it out on the road with a spare ignition coil with me. Sure enough, it eventually died. There was no spark at the plugs, so I waited awhile, then tested it again, sparked fine, so I replaced his coil. Coils sometimes do that when they get old.
Wonderful car. Secondary roads with lower and varying speed are better for the car. 😊
Just a great car !
Had to be the heat shield missing above the fuel Pump. Craziest thing ever nothing will work except the proper factory heat shield that sets right on top of the fuel pump .
Sweeeeeeet Ride............
I thought you were going to include the term "Present Day" after the location. Like the beginning of Top Gun.
Hi Keith I own a 1938 desoto S5 with the flathead inline 6 engine with 6 v system mine bucks and sputters and stalls out after driving it for some time impossible to get it running afterwards have to wait about an hour or more for it to start and make it home Do you happen to know what ignition coil would work with mine?
About 20-21 seconds is what I got.
Seems fast enough to me!
Really enjoy your videos. Looking for advice. I have a 55 Plymouth 230 flat six with a carter BB one barrel. With engine at idle and operating temp engine idles good. When adjusting idle mixture screw I see no difference in or out. On the road runs smooth to about 50 MPH, and that's it. As I continue to try to accelerate nothing happens. I feel like there is some obstruction in the carb. If I would pull the carb, dismantle, and soak in a vat of carb cleaner would that loosen the obstruction? How would you tackle this problem? Thanks in advance.
Thanks. You may have an air leak in your carb likely. Also main jet could be plugged. Pull carb. Acquire carb kit. Open up carb and plugs. Dismantle. Soak/clean carb. Reassemble. Check fuel pressure after fuel pump. All new gaskets seals parts etc in carb. fire up car. Set dwell. Set idle. Set air/fuel mixture. Use vacuum gauge. Set timing. Perform compression test. Go from there. That’s my best guess from 7000 miles away.
If the idle mixture screw does nothing, I would replace the carb, and if it now runs right, send the present carb out. You might severe corrosion.
Also, your engine is a flathead 6. Flat 6 engines are what the Corvair and the Porsche use.
@@michaelbenardo5695 OK. LOL !
didn't, see much of the car
whats the fuel mileage on that car?
Honestly, I’m not sure. I don’t generally keep track of fuel economy. These cars are pure enjoyment for me. If I had to guess I’d say 15 mpg maybe?
Nice to see the Chrysler driving around the beautiful countryside. I'm sure folks living in big cities appreciate it !
Now some criticism: PLEASE STOP the fast-motion, sped up video ! It's hard to watch, silly and makes me want to shut your video off. Which is what I did at the end. There is no need for it.
Thanks for the feedback Ron. I have reasons why I speed up some of my content. It’s not meant to be silly nor entertaining. My goal was to educate people who have little automotive experience. Someone new to rebuilding an engine may not know to properly scrub down a block completely, after getting it back from the machine shop. They may not know that you should blow out any remaining water. Or know that compressed air works well to get in every orifice. There is little technical details to learn or talk about in these actions. So I was thinking “why put my audience thru 20 mins of scrubbing a block followed by five mins of blowing air at it, in real time”? I was thinking the visual says a lot, quickly. Versus 20 mins of boredom.
I suspect many would have shut it off too, if it were in real time. The block cleaning at home is a very important a step I wanted to point out. Just wanted to present it quickly. I’ll consider your comments for future video production. Thx.
@@keithsgarage5831 - Actually, no. People that don't want to watch you cleaning and blowing out the crevices can just click ahead in the video. Or what I've seen in other videos is showing about 20 seconds of the action being performed in real time. Then use a transition, like a dissolve, to move ahead in time a few minutes. Then show about ten more seconds, then dissolve again, etc., until the job is completed. Someone that has never rebuilt an engine will learn a lot by seeing things done in real time. I include myself in that group.
In the driving sequence, you also sped up the video. That made me dizzy and resulted in a migraine headache. That is a sure fire way of losing viewership and getting a negative rating for your video.
@@keithsgarage5831 I actually think the fast motion has a place in training videos and you use it well when needed. Just two cents worth.