Снять суппорт можно без последующей развоздушки. Надо в начале колодки снять и шпильку назад на гайку закрутить и только потом откручивать 2 болта суппорта. Цилиндры там рукой задавливаются.
You did a thorough job, cleaning and greasing every part while you had the chance, for some mechanics The Great Fence of China won't do. If you're going to do something do it properly and no short cuts and I hope mechanics watching who aren't practising this do so from now on.
Thanks for that, although some grease connoisseurs seemed to get a bit offended by the use of grease in certain areas of this car the fact was that it prevented the calliper from seizing together and when it needed to be worked at again it was not a problem to remove the bolts.
The hydropneumatic citroens have their quirks but work on a few it becomes easy with familiarity. Peugeota are fairly conventional never had any issues working on them.
@@DolleHengst I think when it is parked the reservoir is not pressurised. However id have a look on the citroen forums, even ask on the facebook page. I never really worked much at the suspension system on this car apart from changing the boot on one of the rear wheel cylinders.
In Canada and the US their is an anti seize made up of Aluminium paste made for all kinds of metals with a very high melting point,,,works a lot better than copper slip
That sounds interesting, seems like some things are easier to find over there. Silicone paste for brake callipers over here is a bit like gold dust very few places even online sell it.
It appears that the caliper is the same (or very similar) as the ones found in BX and Xantia, probably only changed the seals to ones compatible with DOT? A bit of googling reveals that CX and GS also seem to have similar parts. So this tutorial pretty much applies to those models too, apart for the bleeding. Which in the case of older Citroëns is a matter of having the engine running, suspension high and having brake applied. (A stick between the seat and pedal will do) One thing you probably should've considered is cleaning the mating surface between the caliper and trailing arm. You get the corroded white residue there too, and once it gets bad enough it starts twisting the caliper. That could cause uneven contact between the disc and pad, or even sticking. Nice tutorials though, I usually watch them all even if it was about something I've done a few times. Nice to see different approaches. :)
Bumper3D Hi Thanks for the comment, yes the suface between the trailing arm and calliper, forgot to put grease there. Good to know its similar to the cx and gs. I think this C5 will bleed the fluid similar to the older cars with the use of lexia, not 100% sure though, definitely seems handy how the older ones worked. Ive recently bought a xantia it has brakes which will take some getting accustomed to
Why for you split the caliper, with the cover plate off and the bolt and retention spring removed, the pads can be removed without splitting caliper and thus the requirement to re-bleed the system ????, it also appears the rear caliper doesn't look like the original. I've done this many a time on my 2 previous MK1 C5's, the only time caliper had to be split was with a grinder when the galvanic corrosion had seized solid both bolts and offset caliper against brake disk, oh joy, what fun that was. Good vid though.
DiyMech Ive heard a few horror stories about these bolts seizing into place and wanted to do some preventative maintenance against that, although ive taken more steps i hope it makes the video more comprehensive as it should cover more possibilities
Indeed a horror. I've just done it. Sacrified both calipers and bolts. The first side took 6 hrs, with some experience gained, the other side took "just" 3 hrs. Reassembly right now. Thats a lot more fun.
I’m doing this soon and I need to change the discs and pads. I’m very nervous of snapping a bolt 😩 also is there a way of sliding the disc in/out without splitting the calliper? Stupid question I know but I’m worried 😧
Plenty of penetrating fluid (the 50-50 mix of automatic transmission fluid and acetone, basically nail polish remover) worked a treat on these bolts. You should be able to tell by feel if the bolt head is turning but the rest is not if that's the case use a hammer to help break the bond of any corrosion be it through the calliper or on the threaded section, possibly get someone with a torch to heat up the area as a last resort, it can be a headache if the bolt does snap so be careful. The disk may possibly come out if you get the pads out of place but from memory i think the calliper covered enough of the disk to prevent that.
yes a really stupid question . just bite the bullet and get the job done .those caliper bolts are loctited in place and are super tough to get out . Remember the caliper is in two halves and once the bolts are slackened Brake fluid will leak all over the place . First disconnect the metal brake pipe and cap it off to minimise brake fluid loss. Remember never to compress the caliper pistons on any ABS equipped vehicle .. .. Dirty / old brake fluid can and will contaminate the ABS valve module and effectively ruin your day . Ask me how I know that . My 2008 Citroen C5 saloon a one month long learning curve .All good fun .
Preventative maintenance mainly. The bolts on these cars can seize so i wanted to take the opportunity to remove them and apply grease to prevent them from seizing into place.
The old car had just been sitting for a while before I bought it, the disks only had light surface rust which did not affect the braking performance. In fact, the car passed its mot following this work and continues to brake effectively without any fade or other issues.
Hola, saludos de Irlanda :) La herramienta se denomina "Irwin Quick Grip" similar a la de este enlace: www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Irwin-Quick-Grip-36-XP-Bar-Clamp/172783150822?_trksid=p2045573.c100506.m3226&_trkparms=aid%3D555014%26algo%3DPL.DEFAULT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20151005190705%26meid%3Dab095923cf7143538c61cbbbe2a534b3%26pid%3D100506%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D1%26
After having watched this vid, i'm definitely not going to do this myself. Brakes are too important, and i'm too limited as an amateur mechanic to be sure i could get the job done. I would be more than willing to spend a couple hundred euros (incl new pads, discs and fluid) and have a specialist do the job, than having to go through this horror. Four times at that.
Brakes are usually one of those things the amateur DIYer will do first on their path to gaining more knowledge of working on cars. If you do not feel confident by all means take it to a professional to have the work done, better to be safe than sorry. However it is worth finding someone that will show you the process so you can learn from it. At the end of the day brakes are fundamentally very simple in their operation, even on this citroen.
Хорошая машина Ситроен. Но есть ньюансы над которыми плохо поработали конструктора. Всю конструкцию задней тормозной системы в мусорку. система крепления суппортов не продумана, крепление защиты суппортов тоже не продумана. И вообще в машине много чего плохо сконструировано.
Nice Citroen car. But there are nuances on which the designer has worked hard. The entire design of the rear brake system is in the trash. The caliper fastening system is not thought out, the fastening of caliper protection is also not thought out. And in general, there are a lot of badly designed things in the car. ---- I think it's just the fact they used aluminium for the calliper when steel would have worked fine as it works on nearly every other car. One quirky aspect of its design, easy to resolve by keeping the callipers clean and ensuring the bolts are properly lubricated to prevent galvanic corrosion. The rest of the C5 isnt too bad.
Totally incorrect at some point...when you reinstall the rear calliper securing bolts the manual is crystal clear: DO NOT RE-USE! So, must use only new bolts, because the old ones are deformed. Also, you must use Loctite adhesive in the small holes for sealing the bolts. Its horrifyng that you can extract the bolts with empty hand, very unsecure for driving. When i removed the old bolts i needed 2 houres to do that. Sorry, but totaly unsecure to use grease instead Loctite.
Hi there, thanks for this although i would disagree. Galvanic corrosion is a common problem on these Citroen rear brake callipers, galvanic corrosion between the steel bolt and the aluminium calliper. To mitigate or prevent the corrosion i used the grease as shown. I have used grease before on calliper bolts and never seen one fall off. In fact inspecting the rear calliper bolts on this car some time after this job was completed the bolts still require effort to undo them they were not loose. However in cases where the corrosion of the calliper is significant enough it can expand enough that it will cause the bolt to bend or to snap. I discussed this on the Citroen owners club of which i am a paid up member and the club itself has a number of Citroen mechanics. The C5 rear callipers are a known issue. There is no mention that these are torque to yield bolts or issues with reusing them and methods to prevent the bolts seizing in place are advised to prevent the hassle that occurs when the two corrode together. Quoting the official Citroen manual on the refitting procedure(i bought a hard copy of the dealer manuals a while back, although e manuals online also provides a soft copy of these manuals. I cant comment on what the Haynes manual says as i don't have it for the C5 as i have the dealer manual): "Position the brake calliper Tighten the bolts to 70Nm. Lubricate the faces and threads. Couple the supply pipe Remove the shaft Fit the brake pads Bleed the brakes Refit the rear wheels Return the vehicle to its wheels Tighten the wheel bolts." Wheel bolts manage to remain tightly in place without the use of loctite.
Sorry my friend, but those tiny holes from the caliper body are there with a purpose.Im an engineer and i strongly believe that the manual is more important then the opinions of some forum members.
@@tavitavi9323 Hi, it was a Citroen manual that i quoted from. These are not opinions from some unknown to me forum members, i am a paid up member of the club and these are fellow members i have met at the club meetings who i know and who are ex citroen mechanics that now run their own independant businesses fixing these cars. All i know is that the calliper is still on very securely and that if it does ever need to come off i would put the socket on the ratchet and still would have to use significant force to break the bolts loose much in the same manner as the wheel bolts. However if you prefer use loctite on newly acquired bolts that is totally fine, but with a car that gets used on salted roads in the winter the bolts are more likely to seize into place. I myself am not a mechanic as a day job, i work as an Engineer designing materials handling equipment.
@@peugeotCitroen2CV Ok ok, right today i have to change the bolts, the caliper is too close from the inside of the wheel. Il be back with some details. Since then please take my beat regards.
Understand how the brakes work by reading up on how the system works in general then specific guides on the process required to service them for that particular car. Follow that process and when the job has been completed test the brakes in a safe area at a slow speed off the road first. If in doubt when you have finished have the work checked over by a mechanic. Failing that entrust the job to a mechanic instead.
"Quirky" like most things on a citroen, it does seem to work quite well, although its a bit strange having the handbrake on the front calliper, sort of prevents preforming a good handbrake turn haha.
Confirmed! I changed to the C5 from a 206SW. I tried to turn as I was used to on snow, not being aware of the front hand. Fortunately the speed wasn't very high😂
![ปฏิเสธไม่ไหว (Crush on you) - LIPTA feat. No One Else [TEASER MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/VC689EgdSIw/mqdefault.jpg)
Снять суппорт можно без последующей развоздушки. Надо в начале колодки снять и шпильку назад на гайку закрутить и только потом откручивать 2 болта суппорта. Цилиндры там рукой задавливаются.
The most easiest brakepads and disc ever for 28 minute since I started work this morning , the rear is finish 👌
Great stuff, quite a simple calliper provided the bolts have not seized
You did a thorough job, cleaning and greasing every part while you had the chance, for some mechanics The Great Fence of China won't do.
If you're going to do something do it properly and no short cuts and I hope mechanics watching who aren't practising this do so from now on.
Thanks for that, although some grease connoisseurs seemed to get a bit offended by the use of grease in certain areas of this car the fact was that it prevented the calliper from seizing together and when it needed to be worked at again it was not a problem to remove the bolts.
Citroen / Peugeot never make things easy, great video thanks
The hydropneumatic citroens have their quirks but work on a few it becomes easy with familiarity.
Peugeota are fairly conventional never had any issues working on them.
@@peugeotCitroen2CV
Is it possible to just add some LDS fluid to the suspension reservoir on a 2003 C5, or is the system pressurized?
@@DolleHengst I think when it is parked the reservoir is not pressurised. However id have a look on the citroen forums, even ask on the facebook page. I never really worked much at the suspension system on this car apart from changing the boot on one of the rear wheel cylinders.
In Canada and the US their is an anti seize made up of Aluminium paste made for all kinds of metals with a very high melting point,,,works a lot better than copper slip
That sounds interesting, seems like some things are easier to find over there. Silicone paste for brake callipers over here is a bit like gold dust very few places even online sell it.
It appears that the caliper is the same (or very similar) as the ones found in BX and Xantia, probably only changed the seals to ones compatible with DOT? A bit of googling reveals that CX and GS also seem to have similar parts. So this tutorial pretty much applies to those models too, apart for the bleeding. Which in the case of older Citroëns is a matter of having the engine running, suspension high and having brake applied. (A stick between the seat and pedal will do) One thing you probably should've considered is cleaning the mating surface between the caliper and trailing arm. You get the corroded white residue there too, and once it gets bad enough it starts twisting the caliper. That could cause uneven contact between the disc and pad, or even sticking. Nice tutorials though, I usually watch them all even if it was about something I've done a few times. Nice to see different approaches. :)
Bumper3D
Hi
Thanks for the comment, yes the suface between the trailing arm and calliper, forgot to put grease there.
Good to know its similar to the cx and gs.
I think this C5 will bleed the fluid similar to the older cars with the use of lexia, not 100% sure though, definitely seems handy how the older ones worked. Ive recently bought a xantia it has brakes which will take some getting accustomed to
Why for you split the caliper, with the cover plate off and the bolt and retention spring removed, the pads can be removed without splitting caliper and thus the requirement to re-bleed the system ????, it also appears the rear caliper doesn't look like the original. I've done this many a time on my 2 previous MK1 C5's, the only time caliper had to be split was with a grinder when the galvanic corrosion had seized solid both bolts and offset caliper against brake disk, oh joy, what fun that was. Good vid though.
DiyMech
Ive heard a few horror stories about these bolts seizing into place and wanted to do some preventative maintenance against that, although ive taken more steps i hope it makes the video more comprehensive as it should cover more possibilities
could you give me a link to a vid or some sort of step-by-step guide how to do that without re-bleeding the system?
Indeed a horror. I've just done it. Sacrified both calipers and bolts. The first side took 6 hrs, with some experience gained, the other side took "just" 3 hrs. Reassembly right now. Thats a lot more fun.
I’m doing this soon and I need to change the discs and pads. I’m very nervous of snapping a bolt 😩 also is there a way of sliding the disc in/out without splitting the calliper? Stupid question I know but I’m worried 😧
Plenty of penetrating fluid (the 50-50 mix of automatic transmission fluid and acetone, basically nail polish remover) worked a treat on these bolts. You should be able to tell by feel if the bolt head is turning but the rest is not if that's the case use a hammer to help break the bond of any corrosion be it through the calliper or on the threaded section, possibly get someone with a torch to heat up the area as a last resort, it can be a headache if the bolt does snap so be careful.
The disk may possibly come out if you get the pads out of place but from memory i think the calliper covered enough of the disk to prevent that.
yes a really stupid question . just bite the bullet and get the job done .those caliper bolts are loctited in place and are super tough to get out . Remember the caliper is in two halves and once the bolts are slackened Brake fluid will leak all over the place . First disconnect the metal brake pipe and cap it off to minimise brake fluid loss. Remember never to compress the caliper pistons on any ABS equipped vehicle .. .. Dirty / old brake fluid can and will contaminate the ABS valve module and effectively ruin your day . Ask me how I know that . My 2008 Citroen C5 saloon a one month long learning curve .All good fun .
Excuse me, why disassembled the clamp to replace the pads?
Preventative maintenance mainly. The bolts on these cars can seize so i wanted to take the opportunity to remove them and apply grease to prevent them from seizing into place.
Hello! :)
Can I ask which Irwin is that? How much width it has?
Name is like: Irwin Quick Grip XP *number* That number is a width.
Cheers!
SzwarcuKX5
Its the 36" XP
thank you :)
Those discs are shocking, I would have changed them as well
The old car had just been sitting for a while before I bought it, the disks only had light surface rust which did not affect the braking performance. In fact, the car passed its mot following this work and continues to brake effectively without any fade or other issues.
Super helpful the video!! ^^
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for the comment!
Hola estimado saludos desde Chile una consulta,cuál es la herramienta que usa para comprimir el caliper, muy buen video.
Hola, saludos de Irlanda :)
La herramienta se denomina "Irwin Quick Grip" similar a la de este enlace:
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Irwin-Quick-Grip-36-XP-Bar-Clamp/172783150822?_trksid=p2045573.c100506.m3226&_trkparms=aid%3D555014%26algo%3DPL.DEFAULT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20151005190705%26meid%3Dab095923cf7143538c61cbbbe2a534b3%26pid%3D100506%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D1%26
Nice video!
Why that brake disc was removed ?
To show how to remove it
After having watched this vid, i'm definitely not going to do this myself.
Brakes are too important, and i'm too limited as an amateur mechanic to be sure i could get the job done.
I would be more than willing to spend a couple hundred euros (incl new pads, discs and fluid) and have a specialist do the job, than having to go through this horror. Four times at that.
Brakes are usually one of those things the amateur DIYer will do first on their path to gaining more knowledge of working on cars.
If you do not feel confident by all means take it to a professional to have the work done, better to be safe than sorry. However it is worth finding someone that will show you the process so you can learn from it. At the end of the day brakes are fundamentally very simple in their operation, even on this citroen.
Хорошая машина Ситроен. Но есть ньюансы над которыми плохо поработали конструктора. Всю конструкцию задней тормозной системы в мусорку. система крепления суппортов не продумана, крепление защиты суппортов тоже не продумана. И вообще в машине много чего плохо сконструировано.
Nice Citroen car. But there are nuances on which the designer has worked hard. The entire design of the rear brake system is in the trash. The caliper fastening system is not thought out, the fastening of caliper protection is also not thought out. And in general, there are a lot of badly designed things in the car.
----
I think it's just the fact they used aluminium for the calliper when steel would have worked fine as it works on nearly every other car. One quirky aspect of its design, easy to resolve by keeping the callipers clean and ensuring the bolts are properly lubricated to prevent galvanic corrosion. The rest of the C5 isnt too bad.
Totally incorrect at some point...when you reinstall the rear calliper securing bolts the manual is crystal clear: DO NOT RE-USE! So, must use only new bolts, because the old ones are deformed. Also, you must use Loctite adhesive in the small holes for sealing the bolts. Its horrifyng that you can extract the bolts with empty hand, very unsecure for driving. When i removed the old bolts i needed 2 houres to do that. Sorry, but totaly unsecure to use grease instead Loctite.
Hi there, thanks for this although i would disagree.
Galvanic corrosion is a common problem on these Citroen rear brake callipers, galvanic corrosion between the steel bolt and the aluminium calliper. To mitigate or prevent the corrosion i used the grease as shown. I have used grease before on calliper bolts and never seen one fall off. In fact inspecting the rear calliper bolts on this car some time after this job was completed the bolts still require effort to undo them they were not loose.
However in cases where the corrosion of the calliper is significant enough it can expand enough that it will cause the bolt to bend or to snap.
I discussed this on the Citroen owners club of which i am a paid up member and the club itself has a number of Citroen mechanics.
The C5 rear callipers are a known issue.
There is no mention that these are torque to yield bolts or issues with reusing them and methods to prevent the bolts seizing in place are advised to prevent the hassle that occurs when the two corrode together.
Quoting the official Citroen manual on the refitting procedure(i bought a hard copy of the dealer manuals a while back, although e manuals online also provides a soft copy of these manuals. I cant comment on what the Haynes manual says as i don't have it for the C5 as i have the dealer manual):
"Position the brake calliper
Tighten the bolts to 70Nm. Lubricate the faces and threads.
Couple the supply pipe
Remove the shaft
Fit the brake pads
Bleed the brakes
Refit the rear wheels
Return the vehicle to its wheels
Tighten the wheel bolts."
Wheel bolts manage to remain tightly in place without the use of loctite.
Sorry my friend, but those tiny holes from the caliper body are there with a purpose.Im an engineer and i strongly believe that the manual is more important then the opinions of some forum members.
@@tavitavi9323
Hi, it was a Citroen manual that i quoted from.
These are not opinions from some unknown to me forum members, i am a paid up member of the club and these are fellow members i have met at the club meetings who i know and who are ex citroen mechanics that now run their own independant businesses fixing these cars.
All i know is that the calliper is still on very securely and that if it does ever need to come off i would put the socket on the ratchet and still would have to use significant force to break the bolts loose much in the same manner as the wheel bolts.
However if you prefer use loctite on newly acquired bolts that is totally fine, but with a car that gets used on salted roads in the winter the bolts are more likely to seize into place.
I myself am not a mechanic as a day job, i work as an Engineer designing materials handling equipment.
@@peugeotCitroen2CV Ok ok, right today i have to change the bolts, the caliper is too close from the inside of the wheel. Il be back with some details. Since then please take my beat regards.
Learning by doing is some Times OK, but not by the Breaks.
Understand how the brakes work by reading up on how the system works in general then specific guides on the process required to service them for that particular car. Follow that process and when the job has been completed test the brakes in a safe area at a slow speed off the road first.
If in doubt when you have finished have the work checked over by a mechanic. Failing that entrust the job to a mechanic instead.
Stupid design in my opinion
"Quirky" like most things on a citroen, it does seem to work quite well, although its a bit strange having the handbrake on the front calliper, sort of prevents preforming a good handbrake turn haha.
Confirmed! I changed to the C5 from a 206SW. I tried to turn as I was used to on snow, not being aware of the front hand. Fortunately the speed wasn't very high😂