@@Kylie.Rose. I will be putting in my 4 speed top loader tomorrow. I used floor jacks on top of cylinder blocks. Car was very stable and gave the extra 9 inches that makes all the diffrence
I have never done a 71-73 but there should be a 4 wire neutral safety switch depending on what original transmission you were using. 2 of the wires are neutral safety, they would need to looped together. The other 2 should be for your backup lights.
So I am doing this kit on a 69 Mustang, going from a toploader to the 5 speed. Few things to note (that really pissed me off), some of which you'll only find out after purchasing: The 5000 dollar Deluxe kit doesn't come with a reverse light pigtail. Come on CJ Pony Parts - this is stupid cheap and should have been included. Heck, it's even demonstrated in this video. I categorize this under "nickel and dime" tactics. The pigtail coming off the transmission is the neutral safety switch, which you (probably) won't use. The 5000 dollar Deluxe kit doesn't come with new transmission mount hardware, so I have a brand new setup with two crusty transmission mount nuts. This should have been included. More "nickel and dime". The transmission ships dry, which is to be expected. But the 5000 dollar Deluxe kit doesn't include fluid. Guess I'll get my own, but an approved fluid should have been included. The 5000 dollar Deluxe kit doesn't tell you that only specific headers will work with this kit, so I'll let all you 69/70 Mustang guys know now: You'll need Hedman 88660's to be able to run the clutch cable. Only upon reading the MDL clutch cable install paperwork do they tell you that you need a few select headers (Hedmans were the cheapest) or you won't be able to run the clutch cable through the bellhousing mount at all; my Hooker long tubes were so close to the through-hole that even if I could get the cable through, it would have been a nightmare to route it away from the heat. They also repeatedly say that melting the cable is not warrantied, even if you use their recommended headers. So wrap your headers? But wait! That voids the header warranty. So lose-lose situation. They'll send you three new gears for your speedo cable, 18, 20, and 23. You'll need to use an online calculator (CJ can't help with this) to determine which one to use; if you're going from a toploader like I was, make sure you don't re-use your old gear, the T5 drive gear is reverse-cut and your speedo cable won't mesh. I needed a 17-tooth, but the kit came with an 18. Close enough.
this is how I installed a Tremec 5spd in my 1965 289 Mustang using all the original clutch pedal and clutch linkage assemble including the 1965 throwout bearing arm and throwout bearing. Take a 1965 Bell housing and drill out the two fulcrum mounting rivets. index using the four transmission mounting holes a template, plexiglass is good. Drill the two 1965 fulcrum holes. Take your template and bolt t to your new 5sdg bell housing. drill the two fulcrum holes and counter sink them. . Take out the cable pitot arm. As you stated the imput shafts are different. Between a top loader and a Tremec, 5/8th of an inch longer Tremec. So I machined aluminum bar stock 5/8th of an inch thick and made a spacer to move the 1965 fulcrum forward in the 5 spd bell housing and bolted it down with grade 8 fine thread bolts and metal locking nuts. That is it, no cables, no hydraulics. So the money I saved not going hydraulic or cable went to a aluminium drive shaft. I also used a diaphragm 10 1/2 inch clutch. So I used the solid input shaft bearing, 1965 throwout bearing, 1965 throw out bearing arm. The conversion cost me less than $20 less the machine shop, which was free for me, we had a Bridge Port. And I would never go back to a toploader, never. I have had this in my car 35 years. I also have a very cool front suspension modification using all For OEM parts that does the Shelby drop, but when I finished the car is almost level. It does sit low like the normal modification. This allows for no rolling fenders and bigger tires. And it only requires one shim per upper control arm bolt.
I am in the middle of this on a 1970 Mach 1 for a customer. Car sat after it was botched up over 20 years ago. These parts fit nice and I am hoping to get it out for a test sometime next week. The cable installation is a pain in the neck under the dash of that car, but it will be well worth the modification. Nice video man.
Love this video. Love that you used hand tools for the most part. I don’t recall seeing you use a sing pneumatic tool!!! Word of advice next time don’t have background music, atleast while you’re talking.
When I did my 65, I had to put a 3:55 gear in the rear end and have the drive shaft shortend. And of course the clutch cable wouldn't go past the try-y headers so I had to replace the headers also. I did it back in 2001 when there weren't many kits available or any youtube videos to help.
Great! Perhaps that can be done with a 6-speed manual transmission in a 1970 Chevy Chevelle. However, that can go more than 120 mph because of the 6-speed manual transmission upgrade, so perhaps upgrading to a 300km/h speedometer is a must.
You want as much clearance as possible. The cable does come with a heat shield which will help, in our case we bent the headers as far as we could out of the way and so far have had no issues. Most of the headers we offer will have a little more clearance than these did but this car will be getting an engine swap (hint hint) in the future so we will be changing things around on it.
Depends on which style clutch engagement setup you are going with. Most hydraulic and cable systems will work a power brake conversion. We have recently used the BBCK1 with a cable conversion in a 66 and it worked well
I try to use mostly hand tools so people at home can see it can be done., while common today not everyone has power/air tools. I do break out the cordless impact on occasion though lol
The video was over an hour long with all the swearing that took place in that install :) We had to trim it down somewhere so they were saved for the blooper real. The rail style subframe connectors from Global West are my favorites, part SFC13
Rick did you install the 5 speed in your fastback yet and if so how's it shifting? I installed one in my 67 and it's pretty notchy with shifting but I still only have 400 miles on it? But it doesn't shift that smoothly at all?? Thoughts?
@@LittleBouchet Copy that, mine is all done, I just wish it shifted better but amybe with more miles on it and a change out of oil will help, but much better than the top laoder I had in there that's for. At 70 I'm at 1900 rpm instead of 3600? Big difference with that 5 th gear! Keep me posted! Jerry
The starter would stop you from removing the bellhousing from the block but the transmission should be able to seperate from the bellhousing. I would check the fork to see if the throwout bearing is hung up on the original clutch
There are other ways to do the T-5 swap but if you are using a late model bellhousing you need the correct matching flywheel and yes you want to use a pilot bushing.
Bill , not to be critical but doesn't Tremec require checking the run - out on the bellhousing register? Just finished a TKX & they were adamant about the run-out being 0 to .005 Max . Maybe the T-5 isn't as critical ?
I have a lot of cordless power tools I use, only break out the air tools when I need to. I like to show that most installs can be done with normal hand tools.
How about a detail first to stay as clean as possible? I would have wanted to use factory exhaust manifolds extrude honed for better fitment & would look much neater than bent to hell headers. Great work
Nice video. Approximately how many hours of labor do you think it would take to take out the old transmission, and install the 5 speed? Im debating on doing it myself or taking my stang to a shop.. CJ Pony Parts
thanks for the tutorial, very intersting! But why didn't you made it with an auto transmition mustang... usualy, people who want to change it have automatic car... An other day, you should give us a new tutorial with the Clutch Pedal mounting, and the hydrolic system for a sweetest drive Jean from France
We have 67 convertible too! I dropped in T5 wc about 15 years ago but regret not doing the cable clutch linkage. I had to cut off the cable tab on the bell housing. Is there a repair kit for that or do I have to totally replace it? Funny, I installed the pro 5.0 shifter, same Hurst shift lever, long tube headers, center force clutch, very similar upgrades! Edelbrock 500 cfm 4bbl and performer manifold
I find two things surprising about this video (thanks for posting BTW). The first is how nasty your 67 is underneath, mine isn't so bad after all. The second is how little swearing happens in your workshop; I thought one of the rules of working under the car is to expand your four lettered vocab... LOL. Do you have any suggestions for subframe connectors on a 67 ragtop?
I did the power tower shifter. What shifter boot did you guys use. The shiftr boot that came with the conversion kit for my 65 coupe will not fit over the power tower shifter
love this video but I wonder if I could use the information from this to swap the transmission in my 70 Chevelle. In other words, are they similar enough to use this video as a basis for the swap? Any mechs have any advice?
He forgot the first step. Disconnect the battery. I followed your steps, once I removed the starter, the battery cable from the starter touched ground and up in smoke we went. At 20:38, I'm confused, motor mounts?
Just a constructive remark: it is absolutely critical to work with a clean pair of hands, and clean surfaces. When replacing the clutch pack, the pressure plate surfaces, flywheel, etc. need to be sprayed with cleaner and wiped, freeing them from greasy hands and other contaminants. Just pulling off the old, popping on the new without cleanliness is a sign of sloppiness, especially under a car like this. When disassempling parts your arms and hands got absolutely filthy, because of rust, grease and gunk. You might want to have some hand cleaner nearby, and use it during various stages of the job. Note: I do most of my own work, and work cleanly, never afraid to get my hands dirty.
Pretty awesome that you use hand tools to demo-straight that the you can perform the upgrade without power tools (less the lift) which can be rented for about $10-30/hr at some stall/lift garages.
I don't have any of the tools listed at the begining but I do have a plumber's wrench, a spackle knife and a pencil-will these make the conversion more difficult???
That's all you need they just make it seem harder then it is using all those tools they named I did my conversion with a 6in spackle blade 8in spackle blade 10in spackle blade duck tape and confetti shooters
Hey bill I recently bought a 66 mustang 3speed with a straight 6 if I wanted to upgrade to a 289 would I need to do a T5 conversion in order for it to work?
I have a 66 coupe, where can I get the roller bearing with the T-5 input shaft, and the conversion driveshaft. Also is the cable from what year Mustang.
i have a 74 mercury capri v6 2.8l auto. I would like to convert it to standard. what gear box can i use? also will a 4speed gearbox from a 73 mercury capri 2.6l work and are those fly wheels the same?
Not hating, but shouldn’t you have sprayed off the flywheel with brake clean to get all the greasy fingerprints off, before you put the clutch assembly into place?
You were supposed to tell the viewers to disconnect the positive battery terminal BEFORE removing the starter motor!
10:21 that face that says "get me a beer"
Pretty much
I bet you love your job. I can't imagine doing this job with floor jacks, though...
currently doing this on my daily driver with floor jacks😑 can confirm it is hell
@@Kylie.Rose. I will be putting in my 4 speed top loader tomorrow. I used floor jacks on top of cylinder blocks. Car was very stable and gave the extra 9 inches that makes all the diffrence
I'm so giddy with excitement to do this to my 66
Nice work! No fancy tools, dirty hands with no doctor's gloves like it should be.
Thinking of buying a 1966 mustang without a manual transmission great video I feel more comfortable about the process
I have never done a 71-73 but there should be a 4 wire neutral safety switch depending on what original transmission you were using. 2 of the wires are neutral safety, they would need to looped together. The other 2 should be for your backup lights.
So I am doing this kit on a 69 Mustang, going from a toploader to the 5 speed. Few things to note (that really pissed me off), some of which you'll only find out after purchasing:
The 5000 dollar Deluxe kit doesn't come with a reverse light pigtail. Come on CJ Pony Parts - this is stupid cheap and should have been included. Heck, it's even demonstrated in this video. I categorize this under "nickel and dime" tactics. The pigtail coming off the transmission is the neutral safety switch, which you (probably) won't use.
The 5000 dollar Deluxe kit doesn't come with new transmission mount hardware, so I have a brand new setup with two crusty transmission mount nuts. This should have been included. More "nickel and dime".
The transmission ships dry, which is to be expected. But the 5000 dollar Deluxe kit doesn't include fluid. Guess I'll get my own, but an approved fluid should have been included.
The 5000 dollar Deluxe kit doesn't tell you that only specific headers will work with this kit, so I'll let all you 69/70 Mustang guys know now: You'll need Hedman 88660's to be able to run the clutch cable. Only upon reading the MDL clutch cable install paperwork do they tell you that you need a few select headers (Hedmans were the cheapest) or you won't be able to run the clutch cable through the bellhousing mount at all; my Hooker long tubes were so close to the through-hole that even if I could get the cable through, it would have been a nightmare to route it away from the heat. They also repeatedly say that melting the cable is not warrantied, even if you use their recommended headers. So wrap your headers? But wait! That voids the header warranty. So lose-lose situation.
They'll send you three new gears for your speedo cable, 18, 20, and 23. You'll need to use an online calculator (CJ can't help with this) to determine which one to use; if you're going from a toploader like I was, make sure you don't re-use your old gear, the T5 drive gear is reverse-cut and your speedo cable won't mesh. I needed a 17-tooth, but the kit came with an 18. Close enough.
Yes it will clear most boosters, we have done the conversion recently on a 66 fastback and it cleared with no issues.
this is how I installed a Tremec 5spd in my 1965 289 Mustang using all the original clutch pedal and clutch linkage assemble including the 1965 throwout bearing arm and throwout bearing. Take a 1965 Bell housing and drill out the two fulcrum mounting rivets. index using the four transmission mounting holes a template, plexiglass is good. Drill the two 1965 fulcrum holes. Take your template and bolt t to your new 5sdg bell housing. drill the two fulcrum holes and counter sink them. . Take out the cable pitot arm. As you stated the imput shafts are different. Between a top loader and a Tremec, 5/8th of an inch longer Tremec. So I machined aluminum bar stock 5/8th of an inch thick and made a spacer to move the 1965 fulcrum forward in the 5 spd bell housing and bolted it down with grade 8 fine thread bolts and metal locking nuts. That is it, no cables, no hydraulics. So the money I saved not going hydraulic or cable went to a aluminium drive shaft. I also used a diaphragm 10 1/2 inch clutch. So I used the solid input shaft bearing, 1965 throwout bearing, 1965 throw out bearing arm. The conversion cost me less than $20 less the machine shop, which was free for me, we had a Bridge Port. And I would never go back to a toploader, never. I have had this in my car 35 years. I also have a very cool front suspension modification using all For OEM parts that does the Shelby drop, but when I finished the car is almost level. It does sit low like the normal modification. This allows for no rolling fenders and bigger tires. And it only requires one shim per upper control arm bolt.
I am in the middle of this on a 1970 Mach 1 for a customer. Car sat after it was botched up over 20 years ago. These parts fit nice and I am hoping to get it out for a test sometime next week. The cable installation is a pain in the neck under the dash of that car, but it will be well worth the modification. Nice video man.
15:56 spider was just tryin to help 😂
hahahahahaha
The look you gave the camera man when taking the bell housing off was priceless I would have probly said a few choice words!
I have a 66 with a C4. Definitely want a T5 upgrade!
The tool list was a bit involved with that job but we like to give you a idea of what you need to do the job.
Bill Tumas How long did this take in real time? How many hours labor?
Love this video. Love that you used hand tools for the most part. I don’t recall seeing you use a sing pneumatic tool!!! Word of advice next time don’t have background music, atleast while you’re talking.
I love it when a plan works!
When I did my 65, I had to put a 3:55 gear in the rear end and have the drive shaft shortend. And of course the clutch cable wouldn't go past the try-y headers so I had to replace the headers also. I did it back in 2001 when there weren't many kits available or any youtube videos to help.
They are Magnum 500s, 15x7 front and 15x8 rear. 225 60 15 front and 245 60 15 rear
We use a conversion driveshaft which is already shortened but year 10 years ago getting it shortened was about the only way to do it.
That was a great video. CJ Pony vids are a great resource for us DIYers.
Great! Perhaps that can be done with a 6-speed manual transmission in a 1970 Chevy Chevelle. However, that can go more than 120 mph because of the 6-speed manual transmission upgrade, so perhaps upgrading to a 300km/h speedometer is a must.
But officer, I couldn’t be going 140, my speedometer only goes to 120………….
Haters gonna Hate. Hey Bro Love your choice in background music for the vids! Makes it real enjoyable to watch!!!
You want as much clearance as possible. The cable does come with a heat shield which will help, in our case we bent the headers as far as we could out of the way and so far have had no issues. Most of the headers we offer will have a little more clearance than these did but this car will be getting an engine swap (hint hint) in the future so we will be changing things around on it.
Depends on which style clutch engagement setup you are going with. Most hydraulic and cable systems will work a power brake conversion. We have recently used the BBCK1 with a cable conversion in a 66 and it worked well
You are killing me with the tool list. Luckily, your videos are worth watching.
I try to use mostly hand tools so people at home can see it can be done., while common today not everyone has power/air tools. I do break out the cordless impact on occasion though lol
The video was over an hour long with all the swearing that took place in that install :) We had to trim it down somewhere so they were saved for the blooper real. The rail style subframe connectors from Global West are my favorites, part SFC13
Nice video. I installed a T5 in my 66 coupe in my garage on jack stands. Wasn't very fun but it got in there!
*T5z
Great video! I'm just hoping my Tremec install on my '67', 390 goes as smoothly as yours did.
Rick did you install the 5 speed in your fastback yet and if so how's it shifting? I installed one in my 67 and it's pretty notchy with shifting but I still only have 400 miles on it? But it doesn't shift that smoothly at all?? Thoughts?
@@monstergreen6728 Never did the install, maybe this year.
@@LittleBouchet Copy that, mine is all done, I just wish it shifted better but amybe with more miles on it and a change out of oil will help, but much better than the top laoder I had in there that's for. At 70 I'm at 1900 rpm instead of 3600? Big difference with that 5 th gear! Keep me posted! Jerry
The starter would stop you from removing the bellhousing from the block but the transmission should be able to seperate from the bellhousing. I would check the fork to see if the throwout bearing is hung up on the original clutch
Bill, another AWSOME how to vid!! thanks for sharing!
There are other ways to do the T-5 swap but if you are using a late model bellhousing you need the correct matching flywheel and yes you want to use a pilot bushing.
Great video!👍🏽 really shows everything step by step
Bill , not to be critical but doesn't Tremec require checking the run - out on the bellhousing register? Just finished a TKX & they were adamant about the run-out being 0 to .005 Max . Maybe the T-5 isn't as critical ?
I wish my mustang would look good as the ones here
Yes you want to use the roller bearing with the T-5 input shaft
how come he dont use any air tool ?
btw awsome video, enjoy every min of it.
I have a lot of cordless power tools I use, only break out the air tools when I need to. I like to show that most installs can be done with normal hand tools.
How about a detail first to stay as clean as possible? I would have wanted to use factory exhaust manifolds extrude honed for better fitment & would look much neater than bent to hell headers. Great work
15:55 the spider he knocked of lol
Nicely done Bill. Helped guide me on my installation.
Glad we could help!
I so want this conversion in my 65.
Nice video. Approximately how many hours of labor do you think it would take to take out the old transmission, and install the 5 speed? Im debating on doing it myself or taking my stang to a shop.. CJ Pony Parts
thanks for the tutorial, very intersting!
But why didn't you made it with an auto transmition mustang... usualy, people who want to change it have automatic car...
An other day, you should give us a new tutorial with the Clutch Pedal mounting, and the hydrolic system for a sweetest drive
Jean from France
This was great, please do more!!!
Bill, great video, As always !
The cable clutch is near of the header, it's not critical with the heat ???
Mine is broken like this way... :-/
So what is the total cost involved for this swap?
May want to check runout on flywheel and bell housing so as not to void warranty.
Anybody see that spider at 15:55 lol I would have Spazzed
+drej5627 He wasn't hurting anybody
Check out the CJ Blooper Reel if you want to see a few outtakes from the shop.
We have 67 convertible too! I dropped in T5 wc about 15 years ago but regret not doing the cable clutch linkage. I had to cut off the cable tab on the bell housing. Is there a repair kit for that or do I have to totally replace it? Funny, I installed the pro 5.0 shifter, same Hurst shift lever, long tube headers, center force clutch, very similar upgrades! Edelbrock 500 cfm 4bbl and performer manifold
I find two things surprising about this video (thanks for posting BTW). The first is how nasty your 67 is underneath, mine isn't so bad after all. The second is how little swearing happens in your workshop; I thought one of the rules of working under the car is to expand your four lettered vocab... LOL. Do you have any suggestions for subframe connectors on a 67 ragtop?
I did the power tower shifter. What shifter boot did you guys use. The shiftr boot that came with the conversion kit for my 65 coupe will not fit over the power tower shifter
love this video but I wonder if I could use the information from this to swap the transmission in my 70 Chevelle. In other words, are they similar enough to use this video as a basis for the swap? Any mechs have any advice?
We had no clearance issues when using the late model fork and late model bellhousing.
Do you have any video of your 65? I just love looking at other peoples' classics and projects.
Yes you would need to your an original 6 cylinder bellhousing and a conversion plate
While it is possible and I have done similar swaps myself on jackstands, by all means if you have any way to access a lift do it! :)
Wow very cool video
i love ur video .im trying to put a t5 on my 79 vette auto
I wish I had found your video last week, I just did this swap on jack stands last sunday
and yes it sucked :)
lmao 10:22 that look when you remember why working on cars is a bitch
He forgot the first step. Disconnect the battery. I followed your steps, once I removed the starter, the battery cable from the starter touched ground and up in smoke we went. At 20:38, I'm confused, motor mounts?
Did you edit out cleaning off the greasy fingerprints off that flywheel?
Just a constructive remark: it is absolutely critical to work with a clean pair of hands, and clean surfaces. When replacing the clutch pack, the pressure plate surfaces, flywheel, etc. need to be sprayed with cleaner and wiped, freeing them from greasy hands and other contaminants. Just pulling off the old, popping on the new without cleanliness is a sign of sloppiness, especially under a car like this. When disassempling parts your arms and hands got absolutely filthy, because of rust, grease and gunk. You might want to have some hand cleaner nearby, and use it during various stages of the job.
Note: I do most of my own work, and work cleanly, never afraid to get my hands dirty.
Very nice car what size are the tire sizes thanks.
I've never seen a T-5 that didn't fly apart..Anything over 400 H.P. and it's a bomb..and the ratio sux between 2nd and 3rd
Bill how do you hook up the backup lights in a 71-73 mustang after you install the T-5?
Hi what headers were used for this conversion plz ? as mine are in the way of clutch cable, i have headman 88300 ...... thanks
What about a cable for people with power brakes ?
Pretty awesome that you use hand tools to demo-straight that the you can perform the upgrade without power tools (less the lift) which can be rented for about $10-30/hr at some stall/lift garages.
I don't have any of the tools listed at the begining but I do have a plumber's wrench, a spackle knife and a pencil-will these make the conversion more difficult???
That's all you need they just make it seem harder then it is using all those tools they named I did my conversion with a 6in spackle blade 8in spackle blade 10in spackle blade duck tape and confetti shooters
They will be going to a plunger looking switch located in front of the shifter
Im going to need the part number for the starter as well
wonder if it would work with 72 maverick?
Hey bill I recently bought a 66 mustang 3speed with a straight 6 if I wanted to upgrade to a 289 would I need to do a T5 conversion in order for it to work?
I have a 66 coupe, where can I get the roller bearing with the T-5 input shaft, and the conversion driveshaft. Also is the cable from what year Mustang.
great, clean job
Good morning, does the T5 Tremec transmission apply to a Ford Maverick?
What rear end gears did you have in the 67 to work with the t-5 5th gear over drive?
The kit says its only for 1979 year models and up?
Where would I find a kit for a Cleveland it’s been hard I need a 164t with a 10.5 clutch to fit my starter.
Can you post a link to the pro 5.0 shifter y’all used?
So the pedal return spring is no longer needed?
I've got power brakes on my 67 what's another option for clutch cable linkage? Go hydraulic?
The T-56 is a more typical swap in an early Mustang but for most the T-5 will get the job done.
i have a 74 mercury capri v6 2.8l auto. I would like to convert it to standard. what gear box can i use? also will a 4speed gearbox from a 73 mercury capri 2.6l work and are those fly wheels the same?
Will this kit work with a 68 mustang with a 351 cleveland?
Or what type of headers are best for this cable setup
Hey mate I gotta 81 foxbody are they the same set up or different 👍
Not hating, but shouldn’t you have sprayed off the flywheel with brake clean to get all the greasy fingerprints off, before you put the clutch assembly into place?
Hey Bill will this kit work with a brake booster?
Why do muscle car performance transmissions like this one must be filled up with atf and not with manual transmission one?
Vaios Kaliakoudas much thinner, most manuals just use the same gear oil as the diff, like 80-90
Could you use this to convert a 65 fastback automatic to a manual?
Great video, I really like the how to video's.
Now is a good time to replace those rusty, leaky freeze plugs on the back of the motor/heads
And the kit is still for sale 7 years later.
is that a 10" 157 tooth flywheel?
Will those Flowtech long tubes fit in a 66' Mustang w/ T5 conversion? Thanks.
Will this be applicable for a 67 cougar?