Acura TL (Honda Accord V6) Valve Cover Gasket Replacement
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 21 ส.ค. 2024
- This video will show you how to replace the left and right bank valve cover gaskets, spark plug tube seals and the rubber grommets for the valve cover bolts on a 2004 Acura TL as well as Honda's Accord with the same 3.2L V6 engine. These V6 engines typically having over 100,000 miles and/or over 10 years old tend to develop leaks at and around the valve cover gaskets. In addition, these leaks could finds its way to the alternator (thereby prematurely damaging it), and the engine's oil level may drop below the oil dip stick minimum oil mark before the next oil change. Tightening the valve cover bolts will not resolve the leakage since the bolt tension is usually "bottomed out" and the rubber grommets below the valve cover bolt washer could have shrunk and hardened. The valve cover bolts are designed to "bottom out" to prevent over tensioning the rubber grommets. Very old grommets and valve cover gaskets could harden to a point where they feel like plastic and can easily break apart when bent or twisted. Applying RTV under the gasket will not stop the leakage. Consider replacing the rubber air hose leading to the throttle body when performing this job. They tend to harden and eventually crack causing a vacuum leak leading to poor engine performance.
The replacement gasket kit (which includes spark plug tube seals, valve cover rubber grommets and valve cover gaskets) used in this video was made by FelPro. I have used their products over the years and been satisfied with their consistent quality and durability. This kit is compatible with the 03' - 09' MDX, 05' - 08' RL, 04' - 08 TL, 03' - 07' Accord, 05' - 10' Odyssey, 05' - 08 Pilot, 06' - 08' Pilot, 06' - 08' Ridgeline and the 04' - 07' Saturn Vue.
The battery powered electric ratchet wrenches used to remove and install the various nuts and bolts is Milwaukee's M12 series ratchet wrenches. The 3/8" ratchet is over 6 years old and the 1/2" ratchet is a recent purchase. The 1/2" produces up to 60 lbs of torque which was ample to remove the bolts holding down the intake plenum.
For Torque Specs:
Here you go: www.justanswer....
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Parts & Specialty Tools:
3/8" Extension with Wobble End
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Seal Puller Tool
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Dielectric Tuneup Grease
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FelPro Honda Valve Cover Gasket Set
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Air Intake Hose
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Mountain RM6 Chrome Metric Box Wrench Set
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Mountain MTNRM1214 Ratcheting Double Box Flex Wrench, 12x14mm
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Push Pin Remover Tool / Pliers
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Hose Pliers
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Milwaukee M12 3/8" Cordless Ratchet
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Milwaukee M12 Fuel 1/2" Ratchet
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I like your style brother. More show and less talking.
Thanks for your comment. You're right. Don't want to waste your time with a lot of useless talking.
Agreedddd
I like that too but you took off a lot of stuff u didn’t have to u could’ve worked around most of all that
If it's in my way and it takes a few minutes to get it off, it's coming off with my power tools.
How long did this take real time?
Unlike most people I've seen, you use the proper tools for every different aspect of this service. You're a true pro!
Thanks ... appreciate you comment! Using the right tools makes the job go faster and easier.
What an absolute killer video. Thank for getting to the point and leaving pauses so we know what products to use. Such a great help man.
You bet and glad the video helped you out!
Honestly it's much easier than it looks. I also found it easier just to unbolt the throttle body instead of disconnecting the hoses, it's only four bolts :-) also if you use a high-quality skinny flat head screwdriver in between the outer seal and the wall you can pry out those ignition coil gaskets super quick and easy. I've always dreaded removing those gaskets but this new technique is super easy :-)
Whatever works
This video was very much needed on the internet. Thanks! You make it look easy and give me confidence
Yes ... not that difficult of a job to do. Thanks for your comment.
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I like how the action is sped up and then if you need to see a can (degreaser) or something there's a pause just long enough.
Glad you liked it and thanks for your post!
I’ll do this job this week. I feel more positive to do this thanks to this video. Great job.
Good luck!
@Angel Serrano How did it go?
Uses HOSE PLIERS to twist the hose off...also cross pattern multi pass tightening and a torque wrench where necessary, tapes the motor intake holes for crud and dropped bolts/nuts (yes, I had to retrieve one once, learned that trick in a hurry after that, without being shown, but usually stuffed paper towels originally, would be about a million times worse if it happened and you DIDN'T realize where it went, new engine time). WHAT CONCEPTS! ;-)
I'm just about to do this (today), and thought this would be much more informative than the service manual...more good info is never a bad thing...much help, thanks for posting. Only the front one is leaking, but I will do both, as it is likely hardened, as well, and will leak sooner than later.
BTW, my TL has 307K on it, still is perfectly quiet, uses almost no oil, and the oil is STILL just off the original honey color at change, used to be able to tell NO difference new at changes (LOW "blow by"). Performance seems as new. Amazing motor, all around. This is the FIRST motor service of any kind. Compressor clutch went out (prob my fault, wetted it cleaning the compartment, actually Dad, not me) and starter solenoid wore itself out and was getting intermittent (it reqd mult key turns sometimes to start it) at about 260K (shocker) only other engine work so far. Tranny needed rebuild at 300K, was starting to hunt gears weirdly. All in all, not too shabby.
I'm curious to see if all the grunting pulling the seals and pushing the cover bolts thru their seals is really going to be necessary. ;-P I'm betting you don't even know you are doing that, or maybe it's just an extremely close mic. I almost never let people work on my cars, but I WOULD you, watching this, nice clean, careful, and caring work. All my "twisty" ratchets are pneumatic...I can see where electric might in some respects be superior....that chord is likely easier to move about than the heavy stiff air hose...(especially since I noticed you weren't grunting in those parts). Just kidding.
PS I guess ULEV means, among other things, about 3X as many hoses, valves and other manifold claptrap, huh?
PPS I think I will run this video again on the back together part as a check of "all is well/reconnected". When I was younger, I didn't seem to miss stuff, no manual, no nothing, just jumping in. At my current age, I'm not so cocky as my memory ain't what it used to be (like nostalgia, insert for "my memory").
PPPS And yes, I too specd Felpro. I have done several rebuilds with them, and except for those crappy cork gaskets EVERYONE used to use in valve covers, they held up great...going to rubber gaskets there was a BRILLIANT change. If you ever worked on old Holley carbs, that had those damned "corkies" things throughout, and about 70,000 holes (it seemed) to seal, usually all of which MUST be sealed for the carb to work worth a damn, and dropped them on a CP Hi Po 383, which ran so hot, with those up over the valve cover exhaust manifolds would literally WARP the carb over a couple of years....those "WEREN'T the days" in some respects. Their "power valves" were junk, too, as I remember. About the best performing carbs you could get, though, WHEN they worked.
Great post! FYI ...Honda transmissions can get very finicky. As soon as the oil gets a little dark, do a drain and fill with synthetic ATF (E.g. Valvoline Synthetic @ Walmart). Watch my video on the front suspension replacement to make the car ride like new!
@@hardlymovingpro Will do on the ATF. You wouldn't believe this front suspension if I showed it to you. My father, when he was last driving it said the struts feel like new. I laughed, went up and bounced the car, and when I let go it damped just like it should. I was amazed, even Toyota struts aren't ANYTHING like that! (Two Camrys, great cars, struts, not so much). I will watch the vid to see.
Oh, one other fix I forgot to mention (also just done before I got it) is he had a rebuilt CV shaft put on on one side. The old one had a torn boot and was just barely starting to click, but worked fine. Afterward, the front end feels sort of squirrelly under hard acceleration, tries to pull the steering wheel around in your hands, which it didn't do before. Any ideas?
It has ABS and YAW augmentation, and I was wondering if the guy that "fixed" it could have screwed up something there (sensor maybe?). I was thinking about finding a good TL shaft in a yard with good boots to replace it. I wish he had kept the old shaft, I would have "rebuilt" it, clean, reboot, and relube, which I suspect is all they do, generally. i"m finding pretty much everything he had done needs fixing, and it was done by the dealer (whoo boy), except the starter, which he and I did. He won't crawl around under them any more but still does a little work from the top, with chiding and prompting, at 80+. :-)
We found the solenoid was hermetic, so ground it open just to see...the contacts were basically GONE.
excellent video bro! It is the best I have seen on TH-cam, very clean to work, I have seen others that need a lathe to put the screw gaskets like that wtf, I wish here in Mexico there was a mechanic who worked like this
Thanks for your critique!
Finally someone knows how to use dielectric grease .I've seen people use this stuff on Plug terminal Connections . Definitely not good for metal on metal, Especially in conductivity For electrical current
Thanks for sharing.
Great video. Easy to understand. Fast forward makes it much easier to watch! A+++
Glad you liked it!
Now I know why I won't complain when I take the car to the mechanic to have this done! Confidence really does help when doing maintenance.
If you're new to auto repair the job could appear intimidating.
You made this look so easy. I’m about to do this. Need a few extra tools that made it look easier. So going to have to get that.
That 19 mm Leslie high mass impact socket used with a powered impact driver will make easy removal of the crankshaft pulley.
Good stuff....straight to the point....no junk content.
Thanks!
Thanks for the video. It helped a great deal. I used my heat gun to soften up the spark plug seals to remove them.
Good idea!
So I googled this to see what my mechanic had to do... and I concluded I am not a mechanic and glad I have a trusted one!
Not a repair for anyone.
Magnificent job. No time wasted at all. Splendid.
Thanks!
Holy crap. I’m watching this to help out a homie & boy it was way easier on my tsx 😂
Thanks for sharing!
Tackling this next week soon as my valve adjustment tool comes in
Let us know how it goes!
love your style of video man feels like your honestly just trying to help show us how to get it done
looks like ima have do the same thing unfortunately
I appreciate that!
@@hardlymovingpro hey man do you remember the socket sizes for this job sorry i know it was years ago
Japanese cars use 10, 12, 14 and 17 mm nuts and bolts
@@hardlymovingpro dude your a friggin life saver thank you
Can't wait to do this on my TL, great video.
Thanks and good luck!
Ugh, doing this in a few weeks so thanks for posting this fantastic walkthrough for me
Not that bad compared to Toyota's V6.
Thanks for the motivation seems the timing belt and valve cover seals jobs should be easy to do myself just need some good music and plenty of water and snacks lol
Good attitude and good luck!
Dang I need to invest in those hose pliers. I'm the Corps we had pliers with rubber ends but they were big and clunky. The ones your using are dope, never seen them before. Thanks for the video, I just feel like this will be a pain but tomorrow I'll get er done haha
Yup ... hose pliers come in handy and are extreme time saver.
Excellent coverage. Thank you. Doing mine now
Glad it helped!
I really liked your video. No BS just action and easy to follow. Didn't understand the arrows though. Would be nice if you posted a link to the gasket kit you used. Thank you for this video!
Thanks! If parts and/or tools are available in Amazon, I post them in the text description of the video.
@@hardlymovingpro We have a 2001 Acura TL. I will check with FelPro.
@@bobbylee3211 Felpro is good quality.
@@hardlymovingpro I know. I'm 72 and have been using Felpro since I owned my first car...
Mahle and Victor Reinz are also good brands.
Great work man
Thanks for the visit!
Was that the same intake gasket that came off , When u took the intake off the motor or replaced with a new one when u put the intake back on ???
I used the same metal intake gasket. They can be reused.
Good to know THANKS , Gotta do mine .
Great job ,working no talking thanks
Thanks!
Excellent video!
Thanks!
Excellent work.
Thanks for your comment and support!
A + Rating, Outstanding Tutorial.
Thanks ...glad you liked it!
Very helpful and very informational! Great video thank you
Glad you enjoyed it!
Amazing video thank you for all of the perfect angles! Is there anywhere I can find a torque chart?
Thanks for your post and comments! Here's a link for torque specs: static.cargurus.com/images/site/2017/03/24/13/00/pic-7394743254260623719-1600x1200.png
Great video. 👍🏻. How long did that take you?
Thanks! Around 2.5 - 3.0 hours.
Ur good ! Ima do this on my car next
Thanks and good luck with the repair!
Amazing video.Wow! 👍
But its scary to do it myself😬.So many hoses/vacuum lines 😬
Not too bad.
Are these valve cover gaskets different than head gaskets? Mine is leaked oil at the front head cover where the seal is but I'm not sure what to replace. Nice video.
Head gaskets and valve cover gaskets are completely different. Oil leaks are from hardened, cracked valve cover gaskets that can no longer maintain a good seal.
Great job ‼️
Thanks 💯
Fantastic video man
Thanks!
Great video and great detailing on how to take care of everything. Now, let's try on my 08 Acura TL. Very much appreciated.
Good luck!
Howd it go ?
I started smelling oil burning from my TL at about 181k miles and of course when I popped the hood, there was oil dripping from the front valve cover gasket onto the exhaust manifold. Now I just need to decide if I feel like taking on this job myself or paying my friend's shop to do it.
On a scale of 1 to 5 where 1 is the most difficult; I'd give it a 3.
Thank you for great video Trully apricated you
You bet!
Great video easily understandable walkthrough, without having to explain in words. What are the torque specs for the manifold when putting it back on?
Glad you liked it! Torque specs is around 16 lbs.
@@hardlymovingpro thanks, that's for the top cover, how about the inside manifold where your going in working your way out?
16lbs the middle (inside)
Everything outside its 8.7lbs.
I read to be careful (the bolts break)
I’ll have to definitely do this sober my high ass gon forget sumin
Good luck!
Great video thanks 👌
Glad you liked it 👍
Great video👍👍👍 i need that Milwaukee hand ratchet😎😎😎
Thanks! The Milwaukee impact tools have saved me an unbelievable amount of time with repair work!
You the man
You bet!
Thank you very helpful
You bet!
Does this tutorial apply to the 2006 Acura TL? Thanks for the video! 🤙
Might be slightly different.
You don't need to replace the intake gaskets when doing this job?
Nope because it's metal
I’m planning to do this job on my tl and also the oil pan I have a leak but not sure if is the oil pan but valve cover looks like it but I’m kinda afraid of too many hoses I don’t wanna cause a vacuum leak 😊
Not that many hoses.
Thank you so much sir..
Most welcome!
thanks for this video , i have a problem with my acura mdx ,it works perfect no check engin ,but it smell burning inside the car mechanics cant see the reason .any advice?
Could be during engine warm up when there's a high fuel to air mixture and you air vent is on fresh air setting sucking in the fumes in a close garage door setting. You may also have a mild coolant leak that's burning off but evaporates off too quickly to notice. Check the coolant level and hoses. Also valve cover oil leak getting on exhaust manifold.
Great video...Question; How would I be able to tell it's my valve cover gasket need replacement? what do I look for and where?
Black oily residue below the base of the valve cover. Also oil burn smell.
@@hardlymovingpro appreciate you getting back to me so fast...subscribing...thanks also for the links to the items.
You bet.
I’m a bit surprised that u didn’t perform a valve adjustment &a throttle body cleaning while u were inside.
They would be separate DIY videos.
What is the torque specs on the manifold?
Suggest you get a Chilton repair manual with the specs.
Surgical 👍🏾😎
Thanks!
Thanks for the great video.
Where can you find the plastic screws that holds down the engine cover ?
Sorry ... don't understand ... there are no plastic screws. Are you talking about the valve cover 10 mm bolts?
@@hardlymovingpro sorry , I'm talking about the plastic engine cover that is held down with the plastic keepers. A flat screw driver removes and installs them ?
@@adamUDavies Oh ... I call that the engine dust cover. That part's too unique. Probably the dealership is your only option.
From here and what I've seen on several similar videos, also combined with from my own experience, under the right-hand side head's cover (front one, farther from the firewall) it's always dirtier than under the left-hand side one. Why does it happen? I'd suppose the front one gets cooler because it's more exposed to the air flow, but I didn't see this effect on Toyota's 1MZ-FE in my Avalon. Is it a Honda J-series design flaw?
Excessive heat on one side of the engine vs the other can cause the cover gasket to dry rot, harden and eventually leak. Just an assumption on my part.
Do you need to unplug the battery before taking it apart or is it safe to do all this while the battery is plugged in ?
No need to disconnect the battery.
Are the ignition coil seals supposed to rest on top of the tubes or are the tubes supposed to be sticking out of the ignition coil seals when the valve cover is put back on?
The spark plug tube should be slightly pass through the seal. The seal prevents the oil from creeping up pass the top of the tube and from the ceiling of the valve cover.
Great work make it look easy. Where you located wanna do mine?
Thanks! Memphis.
Damn I was watching to seee if I can maybe try to do it on my own but I’m just scared to get stuck halfway bro 🤦🏻♂️
Nothing ventured, nothing gained. Call any available mobile mechanic as backup.
@@hardlymovingpro thank you bro I’m just going to try bro and the fact that you replied I’m going to comment again if I need help brother
Ok! Good luck!
When you realize maybe this repair is above your head
Not too bad taking it a step at a time.
Hello excellent video how much would a job like this cost if I have all the parts also are you located in NJ
Around a 3 to 4 hour job. I'll be in Jersey in a month or so.
Perfect please let me know what part of Jersey you are from I have all the parts also how much would it be thanks for the reply
Hello just wanted to follow up and see if you are in Jersey already please let me know Ty
How much time on average would you say this took without the video being sped up if one were to also change the spark plugs?
I'd say around 4 hours
@@hardlymovingpro thank you I was quoted 4 hours for this labor and was wondering if that was off base.
I can do it in under 3 ...but gave an extra hour for newbies
Hey great video do u know what size bolts those are that hood the valve cover down
10 mm for the valve cover. 12 mm for the intake manifold.
behind the valve cover is the fuel injector right? I have P0304 code I change both spark plugs and coil but won’t go away and fuel injector is what I think it is
Cylinder # 4 misfire. Maybe the replacement coil is defective or you replaced the wrong coil.
This applies to the 6th gen accord v6 also right?
Should be the same
What's the thing you took out on the front left next to the dipstick? Mine is leaking and need to know what it is to replace or find torque.
I think it's a non functional plug. Believe a replacement with a new o ring should fix it.
Should you not burp the coolant system after introducing air into it?
Nope. In this video, after noticing the coolant levels in the radiator and reservoir tank were a little low, I just topped them off with some extra coolant.
Thank you so much for sharing. I will be servicing my valve covers today, and I was wondering what the torque specifications were for the intake plenum bolts, for the valve cover bolts, and for the EGR plate bolts? I have a J35.
Here you go: www.justanswer.com/uploads/jss21382/2009-07-23_011751_118521257.gif
Hardly Moving Productions I just finished this job. Took about four hours, but the spark plug tubes were probably the most problematic. I unfortunately didn’t have a small torque wrench for the bolts, but I did my best to torque to 8.7 ft lbs for the butterfly valve, and 16 ft lbs for the upper intake plenum bolts.
@@mothern0rth Hey ... good for you and congrats!
Hey thanks for the vid , I recently did my valve cover gasket on my 04 tl and after putting everything back together I get a kind of loud beeping/whistling sound, any idea ?
You've got a vacuum leak. Check that all your hoses are connected and not leaking. Also, check that the all plenum bolts have been tighten ... otherwise you've got a leak between the plenum and intake manifold.
I just did a valve cover gasket and now the abs and brake light is on and vsa does anyone know why
@@bigjhbg Check the vacuum line going from brake booster to the intake plenum. Spray brake cleaning on all vacuum lined and listen for an increase in rpm's. Where ever the rpm's go up, that's you're source of air leakage.
@Hardly moving productions ok I will check it out but when I turn the car off it went off on restart
@@bigjhbg Also check all electrically connectors
Do you need to drain out coolant before replacing the valve gasket ?
Nope ... not necessary.
On average what would a job like this cost , more or less? I know prices vary but just an idea.
I've seen some ridiculously high price quotes so it's hard to say. Repair costs are getting outrageous IMHO. You're looking at 3 hours labor x labor rate + parts. Take that and multiple by 2X or 3X on a extreme high quote.
I think i might have to do this job but i have to check the ninor things first. Today i got a p0174 code and before that i started hearing a sound from the engine part only when i accelerate past 20 or 30 mph. Could this be it?
Based on the error code, check for air vacuum leaks ... like that big air hose connected to the throttle body ... they do crack with age.
Just replaced my spark plugs on my tl. Seems like something went in there. Sound like a clacking noise. If I remove the head like you did you think I'll get it?
I'd look inside with an inspection probe (Endoscope) way before removing the head.
@@hardlymovingpro thank you very much
@@hardlymovingpro where do recommend putting the cam at?
@@championz1184 spark plug hole.
@@hardlymovingpro thank you, really appreciate the help
@hardlymovingproduction I have a Valve Cover Gasket Leak And Side Timing Cover Leak Thats dripping onto my transmission that’s what Goodyear Told Me When I Took it for a oil change and after I took it to a mechanic He Said Its The Timing Belt And The Valve Cover Gasket what do you think is wrong with it? I asked the Goodyear mechanic if it’s has to do with my timing belt they said no but the other mechanic I took it too said it does need to be changed too
I'd.say it's the valve cover gaskets. Get it replaced, power wash the engine then look for new oil leaks.
@@hardlymovingpro you think I should do the timing belt ontop of the valve cover gaskets? Thanks for a quick reply good thing you know your stuff on these Acura TLs
On the V6 doing a valve cover gasket replacement is unrelated to the timing belt
@@hardlymovingpro alright thanks man I’ll check it out and see the outcome hopefully this oil leak isn’t gonna make the engine or tranny shot I just got this car with only 135k on it
One step at a time
Is that necessary to replace? Or can wait
If leaking oil, yes.
We need Acura RL videos TL is not only Acura
Not many RL's around to fix.
@@hardlymovingpro it's getting custom parts, like front bra, I bet in Japan have alot of Acura RL
Acura's answer to the Lexus V8 LS. Not successful
Did you have to buy new plenum gasket or was it reusable ?
Reusable because it's made of metal.
Thank you
What torque for the valve covers and the manifold bolts? Thanks
Here you go: www.justanswer.com/uploads/jss21382/2009-07-23_011751_118521257.gif
Do you need to drain engine oil and coolant first?
Not at all.
Quick question, what that part at 2:36 I broke the piece to that trying to get the hose off
Don't recall. It's some type of vacuum controller. Recommend you get one at a salvage yard. You can also look for the part online via a Honda diagram showing all the parts connected to the plenum.
Did you use any gasket maker, like RTV, anywhere?
It's all in the video.
I didn't see it in the corners either
do you need to empty the oil pan to do this job right?
No need to drain the oil before removing the valve cover.
Hardly Moving Productions thank you doing the valve cover job on my TL tomorrow
what would happen if these things went out ?like what would be the symptoms
Oil leakage around the perimeter of the gasket eventually leaking on to the ground as well as causing smoke when it leaks onto your exhaust manifolds.
@@hardlymovingpro i found a mixture of water im assuming in my oil possibly head gasket ? i haven’t gotten it diagnosed may you possibly know
Hey so I just did this job but after wards my check engine light came on. Any help?
Make sure all electrical connections have been connected along with vacuum tubes.
Hardly Moving Productions ok I will check.... the idle seems very high and the car won’t go past 2k rpm
TheBombdre this is LIMP MODE. Check your THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR. It’s behind the throttle body. Might not be in all the way
Tyrel Davis you were absolutely correct. Forgot to plug it in. Thanks!
You didn’t replace the intake plenum gasket.?
No I did not. If it leaks, then I'll get a new one.
Thanks doing it right now as we speak so just wanted to know before i finish up
If someone wanted me to do this for them what would be a fair price to charge them for my labor?
Based on retail full service rates which have been going up, I'd say around $70 for independent work
honda acordd v6 year 2006 if breaking the timing belt damages the valves
More than likely yes ... the valves could be damaged.
Why is everyone saying FEL-PRO is NOT the way to go? Should I got trust them and just buy it at autozone or spend the extra dough and get Honda genuine?
Haven't had any problems with Fel-Pro.
it is necessary to remove the spark plugs?
Nope. Just the coil packs.
@@hardlymovingpro thanks
How long did it take you?
Can take up to 3 hours.
Someones selling a Acura TL 2004 for 2500 and tells me the gasket needs to change and the part is already there but they dont have the money to fix it right away...I want my first car but idk if I am capable..
Around a 3 hour labor job to replace the valve cover gaskets.
What's that tool called the one to take out the ignition coil seals
It's a pick tool that I use to help separate electrical connections. You can pick up a set of picks at a tool supply store for under $10.
@@hardlymovingpro any specific names?
@@Morpheus11769 Probably you don't need it anymore, but just "seal puller" will work, only a couple of different types that I've seen. Harbor Freight (gasp) has one, at least they did, and unlike some of their tools, seems to work just fine. Really cheap if you have a 20% coupon especially (which you can sometimes get out of the fliers at the store). Some of their tools are CRAP, some are just fine....it's literally a crap shoot (see what I did there?), or maybe reviews on the net for others.
I'm gonna check for the oily residue tm morning, but the car sat for a year. Been driving it almost a week now but still have a slight smell like old engine coming from it. It gets stronger on the right side of engine (battery side) its not quite burning smell but just old engine, and I need to put frion in it. But seeing all this has me thinking its the gaskets now. I'm Def gonna check for residue before coming to conclusions. And get the frion lol
Ps.. It doesn't idle rough rough, but it idles like it needs tune up or something. It's hard to explain, but it's not a quiet idle and it's not exhaust
It's not uncommon for the valve cover gaskets to harden or dry rot with age regardless of mileage. It will result in oil leakage. Aside from changing spark plugs, O2 sensors and adding fuel injector cleaner in your gas tank (or get a professional fuel injector cleaning service), there's not much else you can do. I've worked on two Honda V6's with stretched timing belts and one had a worn / leaking timing belt tensioner. Any slack in the belt will result in rough idle and engine hesitation. The belt replacement did improve engine idle and performance.
@@hardlymovingpro I'm gonna try the fuel injector fluid. I'm pretty sure the guy changed the plugs but it's worth a check along with other sensors. He put a serpentine belt on it, radiator and gas tank on it. It picks up speed pretty smooth and sounds more racy than loud if that makes sense. But appreciate the reply boss, wish you lived in ny
@@hardlymovingpro oh and one last thing, I have a code reader but if I plug it up will it show any codes for the sensors even if it's the slightest bit off? Or do I have to get a special reader?
@@MrBoggie69 Cheap spark plugs will impact performance. Just stick with Denso or NGK Iridium spark plugs.
@@MrBoggie69 Code reader won't pickup lazy spark plugs, O2 sensors or a marginal / loose timing belt.
Wait, so you dont need to torque anything else?
Such as?
@@hardlymovingpro Idk, All the other bolts that wasnt torqued. I want to know because I plan to do mine too.
Will those valve covers fit a acura rl 2005?
Do not know.