It often is the case making things yourself could be much more expensive either immediately or in the long run. Every time you need a bolt do you get a piece of barstock or do you go and buy one.
@@chauvinemmonsyes but a lot of the time the "cheap" (as in actually affordable) stuff is usually pretty shoddily made and it's really easy to get pissed off at something you bought, but if you made it yourself you kinda accept it as is/fix it. Plus not everything in life is about money, if you enjoy machining stuff you might as well do it for the enjoyment of doing it.
Like a lot of us, he doesn't have a powered saw to do that kind of work. I normally do a bunch until my arms are tired, tame a break, come for more. Really slows the progress down!
I've yet to see you do anything that you should be embarrassed about. I started at metalwork when I was 12 ( yes we were trusted with a lathe and forgework at that age) I'm now 68 and it pleases me no end to see a young chap like yourself having both the interest and ability in the field. Cheers matey and long may you run.
You are the only person I know that uses a self centering 4 jaw... I think the whole reason nobody uses that is exactly what you encountered: if the stock isn't completely round, you're actually only clamping with two jaws. That is not very rigid.
Nice build, I did one very similar a few years for a Atlas 6" lathe that I have. One thing that I recommend is to place tape or cardboard on the side you are machining on to keep the chips out, if they get in there they will damage the surface and cause early wear to form as well as causing it to want to bind the piece or chew away the brass surfaces so the piece becomes loose.
Great result! 👍 I have a small suggestion for the lower T-nut. If you mill or grind the 2 sides of the top of the oval piece, it will make a small raised square area maybe 1.5mm or 2mm high on top of the oval piece. Then, you can still insert the nut into the lathe bed just as easily, but when you tighten the thread the raised square will lift up and will "lock" into the space between the lathe bed. Then you wont have to worry about the oval piece rotating when you tighten the thread.
@@artisanmakesi can add to this, if you make it a rhomboid shape with a radius on the dull corners itll lock into place without needing to be pulled up. Thats whats being sold for extruded aluminuim too
I am so happy I watched this video as I need to do something similar for my lathes. There's a few things you did really helped piece it all together for me. Your welds were more than adequate.
Well that ought to do it. Your steady is about three times as heavy as needed, but it is rather hard to hollow out cross sections like big production machines have, ha ha. Nice work.
18:16 It is hard to tell for certain where your welding ground clamp is, but when a part is mounted in a machine like that it should be on the part itself. Otherwise current will be flowing through the spindle bearings and possibly arcing across any tiny gaps there.
He has the ground clamp on the bed rails just ahead of the tail stock, but I agree that this is bad practice as there is a possibility that electricity, trying to find the lowest resistance circuit, could go through hidden bearing surfaces and cause damage. In this case the risk to the spindle is low as he welded to the base block first, but there could have been some arcing at the ground clamp end or under the base block, causing some scarring to the lathe bed ways, but at least those are easily dealt with using a stone.. Same thing applies when welding on a vise as he does in earlier on: best to clamp directly on the part or at least on the jaw/body of the vise. Many people clamp on the handle or the lead screw ball and then they wonder why their vise screw is starting to get so crunchy, because in this case, the current most certainly does flow through the lead screw and nut before hitting the body and finally the part being welded...
Nice. I built a very similar steady rest for my chinese mini lathe. I started with a 6" disk 1" thick. I bored it 4". I didn't weld mine to the base but milled a shallow slot in the base and milled flat the bottom of the disk to give it a solid mount that's bolted. I did this so if I decided to use it with a different lathe in the future I could do it without too much trouble. Mine will take up to 2-1/2" diameter material and I'm using small roller bearing races to meet the surface instead of brass or bronze.
Looks like a nice completed project. Consider adding labels for sped up video. Some are obvious, but when it appears to be at normal speed, your speeds and feeds seem to be too fast. I would think that some of the problems you encountered here could have been eliminated by slowing down the feeds and speeds. Looks like RPM is way too fast on both machines. Thanks
I have an idea for if you ever decide to put ball bearings in it maybe you could Machine a sleeve to fir snuggly over the bearings out of bronze or something soft!. Great video though!
Sleek build, came out really nice! And good choice not going with ball bearings on that tiny steady rest. For copper and aluminium you need quite a bit of widht on those (the ones on big lathes usually come with a radius on em too which can cause all sorts of funky problems on soft parts that are heavy as frig...) which you can't get from too small of a diameter, which you'd had to use here since the thing is rather tiny. But those Brass Bushings should be up to most stuff with a drop of oil or two as long as the material riding on em isn't too scuffed up.
Kudos for that. I rarely have the time to build pretty stuff. It's always "the part has to be out by tomorrow" stuff so it has to be as fast as possible , as cheap as possible with what's on hand, so long as it works.
For the leadscrew holders, why not thread or make them a press fit into those holes in the ring, have them go most or all of the way through. No welding needed and easier to modify in the future if needed
I'd recomend a scissors type knurling tool and WAY less rpm! These knurls haven't seen enough pressure and therefor are almost non present. You can do them in more than one step, as the wheels will fin their groove again, once they are formed propperly. But with this small lathe and these poor press-on knurling tools, you won't be able to achieve any good result, especially with small diametres and coarse knurls. I also feel high rpms are often a problem here, causing chatter, brocken, or cooked out tools.
20:08 😬 The part was tipping up out of the vise! Should use a vee block, and I recommend putting the vee block against the fixed jaw rather than the moving jaw. With the block on the moving jaw you still have two pivot points- the round part against the fixed jaw, and the moving jaw against the leadscrew. The jaw doesn't have a lot of clearance to pivot, but it has some. With the vee block against the fixed jaw it provides two stable contact patches on the part. Nice steady rest!
Nice work! 😎👍 When working with a steady rest its always a good thing to have some sort of protection to prevent metal shavings getting caught in between the bearing surface and the workpiece. Cardboard with a cutout for the workpiece sticked in front of the steady rest is doing a great job for it.
Awesome video! I've always wondered though if you could make a steady rest with each of the fingers being able to "ratchet forward", that way the movement from chatter would tighten it by itself.
It occurs to me that a good way to make sure that it's aligned would be to change the order of the machine operations a bit. It probably doesn't matter if the actual ring is perfectly concentric with the chuck. It could be off a few thousandths so long as the holes and leads screw are concentric. I'm thinking,, if you had to do it again, make the ring, and attach it to the base before drilling the three holes. Then bore the three holes indicating off the base. The OCD part of me wants to machine little flats so the three housings seat better. Then put those on and bore them in place. Now it all has to line up right. Don't get me wrong though, it looks awesome. I'm going to make one myself.
Maybe. I don’t know how perfect it needs to be, I’m sure there is a tolerance and this seems to work just fine. There is probably a better order to do this but as I said I was making it up as I was going along and half this stuff isn’t presented in the order that it is filmed. Cheers
I must say a great job. The small machines performed way above their intend working compacity. You where right to build your own, the off the shelf model is a heap of crap that are only good as a paper weight. The steady rest will give years of service and looks good.
Hi I think that maybe you should try dcgt inserts for boring because they have a geometry with sharp cutting edge. This might decrease the cutting force and improve a surface finish.
Nice work, and a great Bir of designing. Amazing work for your smallish equipment, it looks like your mill is really well tuned. Enjoyed very much, cheers!
Fantastic job! Lot of work but that turned out very well. As I watched I was slightly concerned that the hacksaw wouldn't make an appearance but alas, I wasn't disappointed. Time to head to my shop and create something.
Looks very cute and solid. Nice upgrade. I guess you can make a roller bearing style 3 point contact with Al or Phosphor Bronze, that'll avoid marking the stock.
Great video bro. It’s truly amazing what your able to do with those small machines. Very impressive! Can’t wait to see what you do when you upgrade from those machines one day if you do!!
Very interesting but a huge amount of work. Personally I would use the blondihacks approach of making bearing based support fingers and keep everything else.
Nice job. A couple of tiny improvement suggestions: Place locking T-nut on RHS/OUTSIDE of rest, rather than LHS/INSIDE. Could still be done with a new base-V milled, then flipped around. Toolless knurled or T-bar locking plugs for the 3 rest finger tighteners instead of needing an Allen Key tool.
Hey. Im no expert, but i think you're supposed to add some oil to the fingers to reduce drag. And about the ball bearings. Can't you machine a brass or bronze rim, to soften up the outer bearing race?. That way they won't dig in or mar, and you can crank up the fingers a bit more for added stability/stiffness
@@billshiff2060 ah yeah. Now that i know, i see it. Makes sense now that i think of it. It would just depress under the pressure. Although if they served Fred Flintstone, must be not all bad 😋. Anyway @artisanmakes: nice video. I watch all of your videos. Makes creating professional metalworking projects look accessible voor a noob like me
Nice work mate, well done. If I could offer you some advice it would be to change your welding from a drag to a push with a bit more heat or less feed and no wiggle. Try it out on some scrap and see how you go. Also a light dust of anti spatter spray makes the world of difference.
way better than the 9x20 version which looks like a skeleton in comparison next channel acquisition: TIG welder, the primary benefit part cosmetics rather than structural
Nice, I've been thinking about making one of these. Can not for the life of me figure out why you didn't create U slots in the ends and mount sealed bearings with a through bolt to work as rollers. I agree about the scraping effect being undesirable and mine will have to have these rollers.
Great build, next time you have to weld thick stuff with the low amperage mig you have try pre heating, that way you'll get better quality welds/less cold lap and more wetting in around the toes. Or get yourself a tig welder ;)
If it's lift/scratch start tig only be prepared for frustration. If it has a trigger function then terminating welds becomes less frustrating as you can just push the button rather than having to trail off on your filler wire.
I'm sure you've heard this a lot by now but a 3 phase motor with a vfd for the lathe would help a lot with parts like this large ring to run it at a slower speed. It would likely stop you burning through inserts on these kinds of parts by running at a more reasonable speed
Nice job - the annoyance I find with that style I use on mine is not being able to put it in place without removing the end support, also when realising I need my cross slide on the other side of it! Definately the first mod for mine will be to change it so a large section of it can unbolt and allow it to be put in place when something is already dialed in between the chuck and live centre.
Nice. You can get a lot of work done on big things if you get creative with these small machine tools. It would be nice to have a full machine shop with big monster tools, but not everyone has room for that.
![[TH] 2024 PMSL SEA W2D5 | Fall | พลาดวันนี้ จะต้องเสียใจ](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/A5-Cuo12p6A/mqdefault.jpg)
Two axioms I noticed that you work with.
'Why buy what I can build"
" Do the best with what you have"
A true Machinist.
It often is the case making things yourself could be much more expensive either immediately or in the long run.
Every time you need a bolt do you get a piece of barstock or do you go and buy one.
@@chauvinemmonsyes but a lot of the time the "cheap" (as in actually affordable) stuff is usually pretty shoddily made and it's really easy to get pissed off at something you bought, but if you made it yourself you kinda accept it as is/fix it. Plus not everything in life is about money, if you enjoy machining stuff you might as well do it for the enjoyment of doing it.
If you hack sawed that 25mm steel bar and didn't show it you did yourself a great disservice!
Agreed. Unsubscribing.
Like a lot of us, he doesn't have a powered saw to do that kind of work. I normally do a bunch until my arms are tired, tame a break, come for more. Really slows the progress down!
I have one of those portable bandsaws converted to a little table saw. But for most cuts, I still like the manual workout.
He used a grinder. You can tell from the the end in shot just before he cleans it up with the mill
Push mig drag stick
I've yet to see you do anything that you should be embarrassed about. I started at metalwork when I was 12 ( yes we were trusted with a lathe and forgework at that age) I'm now 68 and it pleases me no end to see a young chap like yourself having both the interest and ability in the field. Cheers matey and long may you run.
You are the only person I know that uses a self centering 4 jaw... I think the whole reason nobody uses that is exactly what you encountered: if the stock isn't completely round, you're actually only clamping with two jaws. That is not very rigid.
bloody good shit mate!! keep up the great work!! no excuses needed when your working with what you got
Nice build, I did one very similar a few years for a Atlas 6" lathe that I have. One thing that I recommend is to place tape or cardboard on the side you are machining on to keep the chips out, if they get in there they will damage the surface and cause early wear to form as well as causing it to want to bind the piece or chew away the brass surfaces so the piece becomes loose.
I have an atlas 618 and I need a steady rest do you have any photos of it you can provide so I can replicate it?
@@MegaLostOne awesome thank you!
This is definitely up there as one of your better builds. It looks head and shoulders over the OEM part
Cheers
Brilliant! Love watching your work. Congrats on a great build.
Great result! 👍
I have a small suggestion for the lower T-nut.
If you mill or grind the 2 sides of the top of the oval piece, it will make a small raised square area maybe 1.5mm or 2mm high on top of the oval piece.
Then, you can still insert the nut into the lathe bed just as easily, but when you tighten the thread the raised square will lift up and will "lock" into the space between the lathe bed. Then you wont have to worry about the oval piece rotating when you tighten the thread.
A good suggestion
@@artisanmakesi can add to this, if you make it a rhomboid shape with a radius on the dull corners itll lock into place without needing to be pulled up. Thats whats being sold for extruded aluminuim too
I am so happy I watched this video as I need to do something similar for my lathes. There's a few things you did really helped piece it all together for me. Your welds were more than adequate.
Nice job! I almost spat my coffee across the desk when you showed the manufacturer's steady rest.
lights, action, camera, edit, timing, focus, audio, filmography & more. Thanks again A.M.
gorgeous and amazing build. nice video and thanks for sharing
Steady rests need to be hinged to open or at least have slot cut in the ring to allow easy removal and insertion of the workpiece.
Grinder and paint make me the welder I ain’t!!
Well that ought to do it. Your steady is about three times as heavy as needed, but it is rather hard to hollow out cross sections like big production machines have, ha ha. Nice work.
The weight is good for damping noise /harshness /vibration
18:16 It is hard to tell for certain where your welding ground clamp is, but when a part is mounted in a machine like that it should be on the part itself. Otherwise current will be flowing through the spindle bearings and possibly arcing across any tiny gaps there.
He has the ground clamp on the bed rails just ahead of the tail stock, but I agree that this is bad practice as there is a possibility that electricity, trying to find the lowest resistance circuit, could go through hidden bearing surfaces and cause damage. In this case the risk to the spindle is low as he welded to the base block first, but there could have been some arcing at the ground clamp end or under the base block, causing some scarring to the lathe bed ways, but at least those are easily dealt with using a stone.. Same thing applies when welding on a vise as he does in earlier on: best to clamp directly on the part or at least on the jaw/body of the vise. Many people clamp on the handle or the lead screw ball and then they wonder why their vise screw is starting to get so crunchy, because in this case, the current most certainly does flow through the lead screw and nut before hitting the body and finally the part being welded...
I've been wanting to build one of those for some time now. Thanks for the inspiration. Very nice work.
Nice. I built a very similar steady rest for my chinese mini lathe. I started with a 6" disk 1" thick. I bored it 4". I didn't weld mine to the base but milled a shallow slot in the base and milled flat the bottom of the disk to give it a solid mount that's bolted. I did this so if I decided to use it with a different lathe in the future I could do it without too much trouble.
Mine will take up to 2-1/2" diameter material and I'm using small roller bearing races to meet the surface instead of brass or bronze.
I would consider cutting the ends of the tee nut flanges down just enough so that they catch the bed and won't rotate unless dropped further down.
The cut from the parting tool to the hacksaw audio made me chuckle.
All and all I would put this build at the top of the list of projects you've shown. Very good work!
For future builds, for the arms you might consider “bearing bronze” which has a bit of iron and aluminum
Love this channel. A treat when a new video appears
Looks like a nice completed project. Consider adding labels for sped up video. Some are obvious, but when it appears to be at normal speed, your speeds and feeds seem to be too fast. I would think that some of the problems you encountered here could have been eliminated by slowing down the feeds and speeds. Looks like RPM is way too fast on both machines. Thanks
That was really well done. Thanks for the video keep on keeping on.
I have an idea for if you ever decide to put ball bearings in it maybe you could Machine a sleeve to fir snuggly over the bearings out of bronze or something soft!. Great video though!
Sleek build, came out really nice! And good choice not going with ball bearings on that tiny steady rest. For copper and aluminium you need quite a bit of widht on those (the ones on big lathes usually come with a radius on em too which can cause all sorts of funky problems on soft parts that are heavy as frig...) which you can't get from too small of a diameter, which you'd had to use here since the thing is rather tiny. But those Brass Bushings should be up to most stuff with a drop of oil or two as long as the material riding on em isn't too scuffed up.
I would add some big bevels for your welds in the future.makes a stronger joint and also alot easier to clean up the welds.
You really are doing special work, outstanding design and workmanship. Thank you for sharing your time with us.
Another thing of beauty.
Have used the oem steady.
Does work but me thinks yours is bound to be a step up. Good stuff bloke .
Kudos for that. I rarely have the time to build pretty stuff. It's always "the part has to be out by tomorrow" stuff so it has to be as fast as possible , as cheap as possible with what's on hand, so long as it works.
Great work, I can't justify buying a mill and have nowhere to put it but your videos still tempt me to find an excuse.
Find a spot, whatever it takes lol. The two machines compliment each other and I wouldn't want to go back to one without the other.
Nice one - I've been thinking about making one for my lathe, and this video has reassured me I can do it
You must have guns like the humongous after all that hacksaw work mate, nice build!
For the leadscrew holders, why not thread or make them a press fit into those holes in the ring, have them go most or all of the way through. No welding needed and easier to modify in the future if needed
You can, I’m sure that would work, just a different way doing doing the same thing I guess
Don’t be so hard on yourself. It turned out perfectly serviceable and you can get some bearing bronze later. Great job!
I'd recomend a scissors type knurling tool and WAY less rpm! These knurls haven't seen enough pressure and therefor are almost non present. You can do them in more than one step, as the wheels will fin their groove again, once they are formed propperly. But with this small lathe and these poor press-on knurling tools, you won't be able to achieve any good result, especially with small diametres and coarse knurls.
I also feel high rpms are often a problem here, causing chatter, brocken, or cooked out tools.
I’m so glad I subscribed to this channel
Oh boy that's fancy.
I've found the same on my projects - never assume stock is round or flat or to nominal size. It bites us every time.
Great work as always. We shared this video on our homemade tools forum this week 😎
20:08 😬 The part was tipping up out of the vise!
Should use a vee block, and I recommend putting the vee block against the fixed jaw rather than the moving jaw. With the block on the moving jaw you still have two pivot points- the round part against the fixed jaw, and the moving jaw against the leadscrew. The jaw doesn't have a lot of clearance to pivot, but it has some. With the vee block against the fixed jaw it provides two stable contact patches on the part.
Nice steady rest!
Nice project. It's your narration that makes your videos enjoyable.
Great build! I wish I had one for my Sieg
Nice work! 😎👍 When working with a steady rest its always a good thing to have some sort of protection to prevent metal shavings getting caught in between the bearing surface and the workpiece. Cardboard with a cutout for the workpiece sticked in front of the steady rest is doing a great job for it.
Awesome vid! Good to see the face mill making light work of its task. The steady rest *turned* out really well 😉
I tell you what! I am impressed with the amount of use you are making of that milling tool you made a few videos ago.
Gday, the steady turned out good, certainly a ton better then the factory steady, great job, cheers
Cheers matty
Awesome video! I've always wondered though if you could make a steady rest with each of the fingers being able to "ratchet forward", that way the movement from chatter would tighten it by itself.
Awesome build
Nicely done 👍
Nice build, mate. You are getting better and better.
It occurs to me that a good way to make sure that it's aligned would be to change the order of the machine operations a bit. It probably doesn't matter if the actual ring is perfectly concentric with the chuck. It could be off a few thousandths so long as the holes and leads screw are concentric.
I'm thinking,, if you had to do it again, make the ring, and attach it to the base before drilling the three holes. Then bore the three holes indicating off the base. The OCD part of me wants to machine little flats so the three housings seat better. Then put those on and bore them in place. Now it all has to line up right.
Don't get me wrong though, it looks awesome. I'm going to make one myself.
Maybe. I don’t know how perfect it needs to be, I’m sure there is a tolerance and this seems to work just fine. There is probably a better order to do this but as I said I was making it up as I was going along and half this stuff isn’t presented in the order that it is filmed. Cheers
Nhìn máy móc mà phát mê
I must say a great job. The small machines performed way above their intend working compacity. You where right to build your own, the off the shelf model is a heap of crap that are only good as a paper weight. The steady rest will give years of service and looks good.
That looks awesome sir👍!
Hi I think that maybe you should try dcgt inserts for boring because they have a geometry with sharp cutting edge. This might decrease the cutting force and improve a surface finish.
I’ve used them a lot in the past. Great inserts although I seem to have broken them all. I need to buy some more
this is a beautiful professional work, well done!
Excellent job. TOP.
Beautiful work!
Good Job!
Fantastic effort well done.
Thankyou
Nice work, and a great Bir of designing. Amazing work for your smallish equipment, it looks like your mill is really well tuned. Enjoyed very much, cheers!
Fantastic job! Lot of work but that turned out very well.
As I watched I was slightly concerned that the hacksaw wouldn't make an appearance but alas, I wasn't disappointed.
Time to head to my shop and create something.
Great job there digger
Nice rest. Beefy too.
You just keep getting better and better. Keep it up man, I can't wait for the patreon to kick off and get you some bigger machines
Looks very cute and solid. Nice upgrade. I guess you can make a roller bearing style 3 point contact with Al or Phosphor Bronze, that'll avoid marking the stock.
Great video bro. It’s truly amazing what your able to do with those small machines. Very impressive! Can’t wait to see what you do when you upgrade from those machines one day if you do!!
His fly cutter he faced that round steel with in the beginning was awesome.
Very interesting but a huge amount of work. Personally I would use the blondihacks approach of making bearing based support fingers and keep everything else.
Excellent work. I will cobble one together for my small lathe.
Best of luck
Nice work, It looks great for small and home lathe and personal used good job man.
Nice job. A couple of tiny improvement suggestions:
Place locking T-nut on RHS/OUTSIDE of rest, rather than LHS/INSIDE. Could still be done with a new base-V milled, then flipped around.
Toolless knurled or T-bar locking plugs for the 3 rest finger tighteners instead of needing an Allen Key tool.
Very impressed 👍🇬🇧.
Hey. Im no expert, but i think you're supposed to add some oil to the fingers to reduce drag.
And about the ball bearings. Can't you machine a brass or bronze rim, to soften up the outer bearing race?. That way they won't dig in or mar, and you can crank up the fingers a bit more for added stability/stiffness
He did add oil. Brass rollers wouldn't last more than a few minutes then would be like fred flintstone wheels.
@@billshiff2060 ah yeah. Now that i know, i see it.
Makes sense now that i think of it. It would just depress under the pressure. Although if they served Fred Flintstone, must be not all bad 😋.
Anyway @artisanmakes: nice video. I watch all of your videos. Makes creating professional metalworking projects look accessible voor a noob like me
Well done. 👍👍👍👍👍
Nice work mate, well done. If I could offer you some advice it would be to change your welding from a drag to a push with a bit more heat or less feed and no wiggle. Try it out on some scrap and see how you go. Also a light dust of anti spatter spray makes the world of difference.
way better than the 9x20 version which looks like a skeleton in comparison
next channel acquisition: TIG welder, the primary benefit part cosmetics rather than structural
Wow. I nerf one of them for my 13" clausing metosa c1330s. I was planning on making myself. Yours turned out extremely well.
Nice, I've been thinking about making one of these. Can not for the life of me figure out why you didn't create U slots in the ends and mount sealed bearings with a through bolt to work as rollers. I agree about the scraping effect being undesirable and mine will have to have these rollers.
That functions great & looks good. Definitely a better welder then me. I cant weld at all. Great job
Well done 👍🏻
Always excellent job.
BRAVO AMIGO 🎉👏🏼
Good solid steady, for mig welding push the torch, currently you are dragging as for arc/stick welding.
Great point!
Great build, next time you have to weld thick stuff with the low amperage mig you have try pre heating, that way you'll get better quality welds/less cold lap and more wetting in around the toes.
Or get yourself a tig welder ;)
one step ahead, just bought a tig torch, just need to find the time to get some argon
@@artisanmakes what brand welder are you using?
Uni mig I think it’s a 182 viper from memory
If it's lift/scratch start tig only be prepared for frustration.
If it has a trigger function then terminating welds becomes less frustrating as you can just push the button rather than having to trail off on your filler wire.
This welder can’t do lift start, guaranteed the tungsten will stick
Greetings from Italy 👍
Perfect
I'm sure you've heard this a lot by now but a 3 phase motor with a vfd for the lathe would help a lot with parts like this large ring to run it at a slower speed. It would likely stop you burning through inserts on these kinds of parts by running at a more reasonable speed
Yea I have heard that a lot. Maybe one day :)
That’s solid work.
looks great🙂
Nice job - the annoyance I find with that style I use on mine is not being able to put it in place without removing the end support, also when realising I need my cross slide on the other side of it! Definately the first mod for mine will be to change it so a large section of it can unbolt and allow it to be put in place when something is already dialed in between the chuck and live centre.
I subscribed to your chanel.Excellent project.Thank you.
that was so impressive!
Nice. You can get a lot of work done on big things if you get creative with these small machine tools. It would be nice to have a full machine shop with big monster tools, but not everyone has room for that.
Brilliant job!👍
Brilliant 👍👍
that was amazing
Grinder and paint makes me the welder I ain't.