I appreciate the thought you put into your design. This looks like a nice piece of shop furniture. I would suggest that you show it in action. Questions like: How do you secure the board for a long rip? Where do you stand while sawing? Showing rather than describing is usually a great way to teach. Other than that, I'm enjoying your efforts. Keep it up.
The thought occurred to me to show it in action, but I was being lazy when I shot this and thought describing it would be enough, but you're right. Demonstrating is a better way to teach. As for long rips, I use F-style clamps to hold the workpiece but, truth be told, I got a bandsaw around the same time I built this, so I use this saw bench for crosscutting probably more than 90% of the time.
I've been thinking about making a sawbench that can be the basis for a shave horse and spoon mule. There's another YT'er that has such a design and it's fantastic. Getting closer to doing the deed and just checked in with YT for sawbench design tricks and found this year old video. You've changed my direction for design since I found myself nodding in agreement with so many of your points on the shortcomings of a four footed design. Thanks for that and a belated Like for you....
I built a traditional saw bench but it doesn't satisfy in a few key ways. What I decided was to build another one like the first, but with a wider top. I can arrange the two benches like an L, as with your new bench, or as two parallel benches, like the split top, or spread well apart to support a longer piece.
It looks a great design for knee clamping too! Knee clampers have to get used to reaching over to grab the offcut anyway. It also looks excellent for sheet goods cuts. I’ve got a pair of narrow horses and I may convert one to an L shape to use it better solo.
Hellz yeah! For the smaller shops like mine (single car garage size) this design is great. Easy to store out of the way and doubles up as yet another thing to put stuff on....
Nice and different take on an old idea. Wonder how it would work if it were T shaped just thinking work from either side without wobbling, push saw or pull saw.
I'm as much (or more) a designer as I am a woodworker so just I designed this in my head and built it. I think I've only worked off of plans maybe twice in my entire career.
Thank you for this video. I must be in the same camp as you because I’ve never understood how anyone could use their knees comfortably to brace the work. Could you do a follow up video on the use of your sawbench and any tricks you’ve learned?
I built myself one of these too and gave up on it for your same reason that I kept cutting into it not being able to see the underside. I think I’ll try your design. I need one. Thanks for sharing!!!! Would’ve liked to have seen it in action.
Yeah, a couple people have said that. I was being lazy when I filmed this. But, hearing requests like this gives me a better idea of what to include in future vids.
hmm nice if it fits your needs but I'd find it a little bit cumbersome for my workshop. I built one very similar to your old one, splited top, but with no stretchers on the bottom and all is flush. The base is larger than the top. A relief on the middle of the feet make it easier to stabilize than 2 large flat feet. I don't use holdfasts with it but quick clamps. Sometimes I have put it on his side, that makes a useful portable workstation for welding or to put the grinder on... and I also use it this way to hold long pieces and cut tenons.
I love saw benches. I have rewatched this many, many times to take in everything. I do not know what the narrower strips are under the lower stretchers. I have seen them before but cannot figure it out. Just a style or wear strips if it is stacked or moved? I just see mortise and tenon joinery and the lower strip seems unnecessary. Very curious.
I had it in my head that I'd build a small tool chest that would tuck inside the L and attach wheels to the sawbench so I could tow it around (kind of lik a reverse wheelbarrow). I've since moved on from that idea, because I never go mobile and don't want to either.
8:00 лучше неудобно поддерживать отпиливаемый кусок, чем во время пиления разбивать об заготовку и стол фаланги пальцев! 8:00 it is better to support the sawn off piece inconveniently than to break the phalanges of the fingers against the workpiece and the table during sawing!
The long side is 35" long and just over 6" wide. The short side is 19 1/4" long and just over 5" wide. The height depends on the user, and should be determined by finding something to sit on that results in your upper legs being parallel to the floor, then measuring from the floor to the underside of the leg just above the knee, erring on the the high side of that measurement, if at all.
Mine are the Gramercy holdfasts from Tools for Working Wood. They work in a standard 3/4" holes and I can easily recommend them. I did rough up the backside of the shafts on mine with a center punch to increase their grip in the dog hole, BTW, but yeah. I'm quite happy with them.
@@themountaintopjoinersshop8422 awesome. I find it hard to work on bigger projects in a small shop. Would be great to see some solutions you’ve developed.
Молодець. Дякую. Буду робити собі аналог. Треба шукати матеріали на шару. Мало займає місця. І простий, як двері. Ти молоток. Чому ж ти раніше його не показав? Я б собі давно таке б зробив.
Maybe it’s been already asked but what is that plastic cover on the Gramerc holdfasts? It looks kinda made for it. Would you care to share us the details?
Wouldn't a T shape solve that imbalance issue? Looks very practical & not too complicated. I was planning on building the former design. Had no idea it was Ron Herman's design. ^^
@@themountaintopjoinersshop8422 True, an oversight on what the purpose was in the first place. x] Thank you for the great topics. It's a joy to learn more about the craft.
I think the stability might be the same or even better but I don't think I'd like that part of the sawbench sticking out in both directions. I quite like having one long side of the "L" unobstructed, but that's just my personal preference.
Just found your site, interesting design but the whole reason for the height of a traditional saw bench is using your knee as a clamp. If designing a new saw bench why make it uncomfortably low when the knee isn’t used as a clamp?
I never had a problem with the height being uncomfortable for sawing, personally, perhaps because I had gotten so used to sawing on the old one, but you do make an interesting point.
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I appreciate the thought you put into your design. This looks like a nice piece of shop furniture. I would suggest that you show it in action. Questions like: How do you secure the board for a long rip? Where do you stand while sawing? Showing rather than describing is usually a great way to teach. Other than that, I'm enjoying your efforts. Keep it up.
The thought occurred to me to show it in action, but I was being lazy when I shot this and thought describing it would be enough, but you're right. Demonstrating is a better way to teach. As for long rips, I use F-style clamps to hold the workpiece but, truth be told, I got a bandsaw around the same time I built this, so I use this saw bench for crosscutting probably more than 90% of the time.
I've been thinking about making a sawbench that can be the basis for a shave horse and spoon mule. There's another YT'er that has such a design and it's fantastic. Getting closer to doing the deed and just checked in with YT for sawbench design tricks and found this year old video. You've changed my direction for design since I found myself nodding in agreement with so many of your points on the shortcomings of a four footed design. Thanks for that and a belated Like for you....
I built a traditional saw bench but it doesn't satisfy in a few key ways. What I decided was to build another one like the first, but with a wider top. I can arrange the two benches like an L, as with your new bench, or as two parallel benches, like the split top, or spread well apart to support a longer piece.
It looks a great design for knee clamping too! Knee clampers have to get used to reaching over to grab the offcut anyway. It also looks excellent for sheet goods cuts. I’ve got a pair of narrow horses and I may convert one to an L shape to use it better solo.
Great ideas. I have noticed your sound quality is now sorted out. Excellent video!!
Yep! I'm kinda learning video production on the fly here.
Hellz yeah! For the smaller shops like mine (single car garage size) this design is great. Easy to store out of the way and doubles up as yet another thing to put stuff on....
Nice and different take on an old idea. Wonder how it would work if it were T shaped just thinking work from either side without wobbling, push saw or pull saw.
Very cool. I am off to build one of these next time. Cheers for sharing.
Very nice design.
OMG OMG, where do I get the plans for this awesome sawsome bench??? 😍
I'm as much (or more) a designer as I am a woodworker so just I designed this in my head and built it. I think I've only worked off of plans maybe twice in my entire career.
Thank you for this video. I must be in the same camp as you because I’ve never understood how anyone could use their knees comfortably to brace the work. Could you do a follow up video on the use of your sawbench and any tricks you’ve learned?
I built myself one of these too and gave up on it for your same reason that I kept cutting into it not being able to see the underside.
I think I’ll try your design. I need one.
Thanks for sharing!!!!
Would’ve liked to have seen it in action.
Yeah, a couple people have said that. I was being lazy when I filmed this. But, hearing requests like this gives me a better idea of what to include in future vids.
thanks
I really like your content
Thanks! I hope you like it enough to subscribe and all that.
Paul Sellars has a very good video on sharpening saws.
hmm nice if it fits your needs but I'd find it a little bit cumbersome for my workshop.
I built one very similar to your old one, splited top, but with no stretchers on the bottom and all is flush. The base is larger than the top. A relief on the middle of the feet make it easier to stabilize than 2 large flat feet.
I don't use holdfasts with it but quick clamps. Sometimes I have put it on his side, that makes a useful portable workstation for welding or to put the grinder on... and I also use it this way to hold long pieces and cut tenons.
I love saw benches. I have rewatched this many, many times to take in everything. I do not know what the narrower strips are under the lower stretchers. I have seen them before but cannot figure it out. Just a style or wear strips if it is stacked or moved? I just see mortise and tenon joinery and the lower strip seems unnecessary. Very curious.
I had it in my head that I'd build a small tool chest that would tuck inside the L and attach wheels to the sawbench so I could tow it around (kind of lik a reverse wheelbarrow). I've since moved on from that idea, because I never go mobile and don't want to either.
8:00 лучше неудобно поддерживать отпиливаемый кусок, чем во время пиления разбивать об заготовку и стол фаланги пальцев!
8:00 it is better to support the sawn off piece inconveniently than to break the phalanges of the fingers against the workpiece and the table during sawing!
Very nice design, how did you secure the top to the legs?
I made a subassembly of the aprons, stretchers and legs, then I glued the top to the aprons.
Pretty ingenious design. Rather than plans, how about a quick rundown of the dimensions? I could figure out the rest from there.
Sure. Do you want them in metric or imperial?
@@themountaintopjoinersshop8422 sweet! Imperial, please and thanks!
The long side is 35" long and just over 6" wide. The short side is 19 1/4" long and just over 5" wide. The height depends on the user, and should be determined by finding something to sit on that results in your upper legs being parallel to the floor, then measuring from the floor to the underside of the leg just above the knee, erring on the the high side of that measurement, if at all.
@@themountaintopjoinersshop8422 thank you!
Any recommendations on those hold fasts? Brand? Positive? Negative?
Mine are the Gramercy holdfasts from Tools for Working Wood. They work in a standard 3/4" holes and I can easily recommend them. I did rough up the backside of the shafts on mine with a center punch to increase their grip in the dog hole, BTW, but yeah. I'm quite happy with them.
Mind showing it in use?
I'll have to work it into some future video.
@@themountaintopjoinersshop8422 awesome. I find it hard to work on bigger projects in a small shop. Would be great to see some solutions you’ve developed.
Молодець. Дякую. Буду робити собі аналог. Треба шукати матеріали на шару. Мало займає місця. І простий, як двері. Ти молоток. Чому ж ти раніше його не показав? Я б собі давно таке б зробив.
Maybe it’s been already asked but what is that plastic cover on the Gramerc holdfasts? It looks kinda made for it. Would you care to share us the details?
It's just a section of hybrid/cyclocross bicycle tubing slipped over the end to increase grip/holding power.
@@themountaintopjoinersshop8422 Nice. Thanks for the info.
Wouldn't a T shape solve that imbalance issue?
Looks very practical & not too complicated. I was planning on building the former design. Had no idea it was Ron Herman's design. ^^
Not sure,, but the L shape leaves one long, unobstructed place for rip cuts and allows me to tuck it out of the way a better, fwiw.
@@themountaintopjoinersshop8422
True, an oversight on what the purpose was in the first place. x]
Thank you for the great topics. It's a joy to learn more about the craft.
An angled "L" - (number 7) might reduce the tipsiness, as you would have feet placed in a sort of elongated triangle.
Where’d u hit that adjustable shooting board?
It's made by Veritas. I talk about it quite a bit in this video: th-cam.com/video/gaORuRUdeXU/w-d-xo.html
@@themountaintopjoinersshop8422 I’ll watch it. Tganks
What if you had made the l section about 4 to 6 inches longer and made a tee
I think the stability might be the same or even better but I don't think I'd like that part of the sawbench sticking out in both directions. I quite like having one long side of the "L" unobstructed, but that's just my personal preference.
In the “L” state, do you have any issues with pull saws or is it kinda the same bag being right handed?
I think with a pull saw it'd work pretty well, but the few pull saws I have are little flush cut ones I wouldn't use at a saw bench.
Just found your site, interesting design but the whole reason for the height of a traditional saw bench is using your knee as a clamp. If designing a new saw bench why make it uncomfortably low when the knee isn’t used as a clamp?
I never had a problem with the height being uncomfortable for sawing, personally, perhaps because I had gotten so used to sawing on the old one, but you do make an interesting point.
+1 on boney knees. How do people stand it 😂
Let's redesign the wheel while we're here 😅