Is this how you adjust your chain? I know there are a million different ways to do it, some people roll a spanner in there to get the tension and adjust from there!
Thanks, very glad it was useful :) It's extremely easy! Now apparently 2023+ models in the EU have some extra protection around them but I obviously can't confirm that in person, but that may complicate it.
Good vid. "Just moved so don't know where everything is yet" is my mantra at the mo! Just be certain it will not be where it should be 😂 I don't have a sensible tool box or vice at the mo, so will be looking for myself shortly. I'll be very interested in your choices as things progress. Cheers, Andy.
Haha yeah it's some pain in the behind now to be fair. Like I spent a good 5 minutes looking for my torque wrenches 😂😂 Yeah the nice thing about America is that sort of stuff is very readily available :)
Very nice. I hope to be able to refer back to this one day. In fact I'm sure I will. I don't have a lot of experience with Harbor Freight but I've heard the tool boxes aren't a complete fiasco.
Thank you sir. I hope it proves useful for people, the biggest mistake I see really is the loosening of the axle, that'll really mess you up. Yeah so it would seem, can never have enough data tho :P I'm such a nerd ....
Great video as always, but at 2.08 it sounds like you dropped a sneaky fart 😂😂 jokes aside I started watching you for the cbf 1000 videos as it’s the same bike as I have, but have watched most of your videos now. You seem like a pretty decent guy and your videos are always informative and helpful. Keep up the good work 👍
Haha I heard that in editing, it was my flip flop on my sweaty feet 😂 Thank you, glad you've been enjoying them and I promise, I'm a terrible person really :)
My garage is always messy. I used to worry about it in my videos, but not anymore. At least your Kawasaki does not have the eccentric axle setup found on some of its other models.
Oh God you're dead right, I'd like it neat for me! But if someone has an issue with it, tough 😂 We have garages not production studios eh. Hahaha very true. The castle nut is a nice to have but that's about as far as I'd go with their alternate ways of doing things. The adjuster lock nuts being the same size as the adjuster bolt is a pain too.
Small point but I think you should have the paddock stand swing arm cups as close to the axle as possible because the lever effect of the swing arm. If positioned away from the axle the weight of the bike will not compress the rear shock as much (and hence raise the swing arm) as it would if the rear wheel is on the ground. Hope that makes sense.
I mean technically you're correct but the effect of the lever another 100mm or so is going to be negligible for the chain tightening, also that paddock stand is shite and the rear of the swing arm is tapered, which is why I said I want to get one to use with bobbins, it's an Amazon one and the wheels literally like to fall off the thing. Have them modified now so they shouldn't. So mathematically and mechanical effort wise you're right. But in real terms the difference is minimal and the bike is way more secure the way I had it :)
@@TheGorillaBiker understood. I did not mean to be picky I was not sure how much of an effect it would have. I’ve seen folks adjusting the slack with the swing arm unsupported ( on the centre stand) and end up having no slack with the wheel on the ground. This will knacker the chain, sprockets and bearings. On the other extreme I’ve been in a ride with a novice whose chain was so loose it came off the sprocket. PS love the RS 900 great looking machine. I have a Speed Twin which has similar styling. Enjoy your videos both in your homeland and now across the pond. 👍
Yeah I mentioned in the video not to do it on your swingarm, never a good idea. You CAN do it, but you'd have to do some experimenting. I did also mention pressure on bearings and sprockets in the video :) Thanks!
Hang a wooden board on your garage wall, you'll save loads of time looking for the correct size spanners, screwdrivers etc and keep your garage neat and tidy. I only keep large or infrequently used tools in a toolbox.
That's to make sure people don't use centre stands. Mechanically you have to have weight on the swingarm. A paddock stand is fine to use also. Side stand is perfect if that's all you have.
I just stripped out rear axle threads on my brand new vstrom 650 by over tightning, it appears. I still find it hard to believe, and I wasnt the first one, vstroms seem to be susceptible to it... an expensive lesson to get that torque wrench
Ah I'm sorry to hear that, sadly it's easily done as most stuff now is aluminum! Great material for weight and all but not particularly resistant to abuse. I hope you can get a new axle soon! No need for a mad expensive torque wrench either just a decent one :)
I understand how some people would be nervous of it but there's so much info out there now that really there isn't an excuse not to have a crack at it I feel :) Were just turning in to grumpy old men :P
I'm new to this myself, but on other videos, I've seen instruction for checking the tension, that you are to push the bottom only up to the point where you are not moving the top of the chain. Is that correct?
I honestly don't understand what you mean sorry!! You push the chain until it doesn't move any more basically, that's the available slack on the chain. if there's movement left and you're not on a dirt bike etc then you haven't measured all of the slack :)
He's saying when you push up or down in the bottom run of the chain the ideal is not to put that much pressure so that the upper run of chains tension is effected
I already know how to do this but need not as my bike is a shaft drive. I’ll watch anyway I case one day I get to own a beautiful bike like your Kawasaki.
The cotter pin is upside down, needs to be fitted ither way round with the cotter pin head at the top so if anything happend to the pin it doesnt fall out
While you are correct the bent parts become weaker, but there's a nut torqued to spec, a cotter pin which is a safety device just in case the nut fails(already terribly bad) and a rubber boot holding the cotter pin in place.....it's absolutely fine. Ideally from the top sure, but it's literally grand.
@@TheGorillaBiker totally agree its a fail safe and if torqued right shouldnt need it but if is extra safety then might aswell serve its purpose 👍 easily fixed next time you adjust chain you can swap it out... Take care ride safe
What else would you be here for? :D Yeah Kawasaki's all tend to be like this, they've stuck to the same formula on most of their bikes for a long time.
Is this how you adjust your chain? I know there are a million different ways to do it, some people roll a spanner in there to get the tension and adjust from there!
Yes, that is almost exactly to a T how I check/adjust my chains on all my bikes.
@@MonkeyButtRides we are basically geniuses
@@TheGorillaBiker certifiable
@@MonkeyButtRides TH-cam certified 😂
Another awesome video - Thank you! I was about to cut the tabs of my ECU when I found your video. It was so easy to remove it without cutting it.
Thanks, very glad it was useful :) It's extremely easy! Now apparently 2023+ models in the EU have some extra protection around them but I obviously can't confirm that in person, but that may complicate it.
Recommend checking and adjusting with wheel on the ground to get the correct slack. There is a big difference using a paddock stand.
I double check once it's on the ground and so far have noticed zero difference tbh.
Good vid. "Just moved so don't know where everything is yet" is my mantra at the mo! Just be certain it will not be where it should be 😂 I don't have a sensible tool box or vice at the mo, so will be looking for myself shortly. I'll be very interested in your choices as things progress. Cheers, Andy.
Haha yeah it's some pain in the behind now to be fair. Like I spent a good 5 minutes looking for my torque wrenches 😂😂
Yeah the nice thing about America is that sort of stuff is very readily available :)
Very nice. I hope to be able to refer back to this one day. In fact I'm sure I will. I don't have a lot of experience with Harbor Freight but I've heard the tool boxes aren't a complete fiasco.
Thank you sir. I hope it proves useful for people, the biggest mistake I see really is the loosening of the axle, that'll really mess you up.
Yeah so it would seem, can never have enough data tho :P I'm such a nerd ....
Great video as always, but at 2.08 it sounds like you dropped a sneaky fart 😂😂 jokes aside I started watching you for the cbf 1000 videos as it’s the same bike as I have, but have watched most of your videos now. You seem like a pretty decent guy and your videos are always informative and helpful. Keep up the good work 👍
Haha I heard that in editing, it was my flip flop on my sweaty feet 😂
Thank you, glad you've been enjoying them and I promise, I'm a terrible person really :)
Good video, straight to the point. Thanks!
Glad it was useful!
My garage is always messy. I used to worry about it in my videos, but not anymore.
At least your Kawasaki does not have the eccentric axle setup found on some of its other models.
Oh God you're dead right, I'd like it neat for me! But if someone has an issue with it, tough 😂 We have garages not production studios eh.
Hahaha very true. The castle nut is a nice to have but that's about as far as I'd go with their alternate ways of doing things. The adjuster lock nuts being the same size as the adjuster bolt is a pain too.
110 nm that was what is was looking for. Thanks! great video!
You're welcome! Thanks :)
Small point but I think you should have the paddock stand swing arm cups as close to the axle as possible because the lever effect of the swing arm. If positioned away from the axle the weight of the bike will not compress the rear shock as much (and hence raise the swing arm) as it would if the rear wheel is on the ground. Hope that makes sense.
I mean technically you're correct but the effect of the lever another 100mm or so is going to be negligible for the chain tightening, also that paddock stand is shite and the rear of the swing arm is tapered, which is why I said I want to get one to use with bobbins, it's an Amazon one and the wheels literally like to fall off the thing. Have them modified now so they shouldn't.
So mathematically and mechanical effort wise you're right. But in real terms the difference is minimal and the bike is way more secure the way I had it :)
@@TheGorillaBiker understood. I did not mean to be picky I was not sure how much of an effect it would have. I’ve seen folks adjusting the slack with the swing arm unsupported ( on the centre stand) and end up having no slack with the wheel on the ground. This will knacker the chain, sprockets and bearings. On the other extreme I’ve been in a ride with a novice whose chain was so loose it came off the sprocket. PS love the RS 900 great looking machine. I have a Speed Twin which has similar styling. Enjoy your videos both in your homeland and now across the pond. 👍
Yeah I mentioned in the video not to do it on your swingarm, never a good idea. You CAN do it, but you'd have to do some experimenting. I did also mention pressure on bearings and sprockets in the video :) Thanks!
Late to the party! Did I miss anything? No looks like another solid job. 👍
Haha you'll never miss anything on TH-cam happily, they don't go anywhere! Thank you sir.
Hang a wooden board on your garage wall, you'll save loads of time looking for the correct size spanners, screwdrivers etc and keep your garage neat and tidy. I only keep large or infrequently used tools in a toolbox.
I noticed on mine that on the swing arm it specifically states to check the chain tension while it's on the side stand.
That's to make sure people don't use centre stands. Mechanically you have to have weight on the swingarm. A paddock stand is fine to use also. Side stand is perfect if that's all you have.
I just stripped out rear axle threads on my brand new vstrom 650 by over tightning, it appears. I still find it hard to believe, and I wasnt the first one, vstroms seem to be susceptible to it... an expensive lesson to get that torque wrench
Ah I'm sorry to hear that, sadly it's easily done as most stuff now is aluminum! Great material for weight and all but not particularly resistant to abuse. I hope you can get a new axle soon! No need for a mad expensive torque wrench either just a decent one :)
It amazes me how many people don't adjust their own chains and pay main dealerships to do so for them.
I understand how some people would be nervous of it but there's so much info out there now that really there isn't an excuse not to have a crack at it I feel :) Were just turning in to grumpy old men :P
I'm def getting old... and think I've already made it to the dizzy heights of grumpy! 😀@@TheGorillaBiker
@@HippoDrones you are probably one of the least grumpy people I've met 😂😂
@@TheGorillaBiker Ha... you should see the grumpy face on me right now at work! 😀
I bet it's still friendly :)
I'm new to this myself, but on other videos, I've seen instruction for checking the tension, that you are to push the bottom only up to the point where you are not moving the top of the chain. Is that correct?
I honestly don't understand what you mean sorry!! You push the chain until it doesn't move any more basically, that's the available slack on the chain. if there's movement left and you're not on a dirt bike etc then you haven't measured all of the slack :)
He's saying when you push up or down in the bottom run of the chain the ideal is not to put that much pressure so that the upper run of chains tension is effected
Nice safety boots mate.
Most of the time I wear my skin boots in the garage.
I do have scars yes.
@@TheGorillaBiker Hahahaha. We must be brothers.
@hachewie it's possible. No evidence to the contrary
Why can't you loosen the axle from the right side and just leave the cotter pin side alone?
The Cotter pin goes through the axle.
@TheGorillaBiker oh yeah that makes sense. I guess I wasn't really thinking. I'm adjusting mine for the first time today. Good video.
I already know how to do this but need not as my bike is a shaft drive. I’ll watch anyway I case one day I get to own a beautiful bike like your Kawasaki.
You now own one of the most beautiful bikes on this revolving sphere thing that we call home.
@@TheGorillaBiker yes. But we can have more than one. 😉
@@hachewie very true :)
The cotter pin is upside down, needs to be fitted ither way round with the cotter pin head at the top so if anything happend to the pin it doesnt fall out
If it's wrapped correctly it really doesn't matter.
@@TheGorillaBiker it does because the bits that you bend become weaker then the rest, trust me check Google etc but that is 100% incorrect, look it up
While you are correct the bent parts become weaker, but there's a nut torqued to spec, a cotter pin which is a safety device just in case the nut fails(already terribly bad) and a rubber boot holding the cotter pin in place.....it's absolutely fine. Ideally from the top sure, but it's literally grand.
@@TheGorillaBiker totally agree its a fail safe and if torqued right shouldnt need it but if is extra safety then might aswell serve its purpose 👍 easily fixed next time you adjust chain you can swap it out... Take care ride safe
You too, I'm going to put it that way every time now to prove a point :P
That nut was pretty tight. I bet them bearings will wear faster.
This man is wise.
I'm only here to see how to do it. My Z900RS is the only different one I have owned...mfkr HAD TO BE different!
What else would you be here for? :D Yeah Kawasaki's all tend to be like this, they've stuck to the same formula on most of their bikes for a long time.
Shaft. Drive. 🤣
Haha but then I wouldn't have a Z900RS 😂 I like chains anyway, easy to fix if they go wrong.
A scott oiler if fitted correctly reduces the chain adjustment intervals by two to three times the distance. . .I swear by them