Thailand Boat Engine Damage, the Trailer is INSANE!
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 พ.ค. 2024
- Tuff Rings
Code: RPM
tuffring.com/discount/RPM
Apogee Industries (trailer, upholstery, storage)
941-786-4100
/ apogeeindustries.net
Ocean Grip - Dillon Maus
941-379-4455
Instagram / oceangrip
Daniel Sell (Powdercoat & Fab)
941-809-6366
Clear View Filters seethroughfilter.com
Shoutout to @DannyDiesel for getting the engine ready!
Motion Raceworks Catch Can motionraceworks.com/pages/sea...
Camera:
DJI Osmo Pocket 3 amzn.to/3JVZ5wO
Ring Light amzn.to/3JVZ5wO
Garmin Dash Cam amzn.to/3JVZ5wO - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
We gunna have this thing done in 4 weeks for the Texas Mud Boat event?
Love this build.
Where is this event at?
Driving down from Ontario Canada to see it at Caddo
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✌️👍 he was 100% right.... eagle, that's right that man said eagle, merica gets no better... lol...👍✌️
Parker i can see that you are really exited about your boat build so please take this as constructive criticism and just think about this. A pump designed for petrol and/or oil will not work to pump water fresh or salt .That pumps have a steel impeller with steel free floating vanes running in an oval hole.Centrifugal force troughs the vanes out against the walls to make it pump. It will pump water but leave it for a week or two and it will rust the vanes to the impeller and fail. That is why all marine water pumps have plastic impellers.
Sorry I am not finished yet. The mesh in the filter you are using are to fine. That filter is designed to stop fine pieces of steel trough a oil pump in case of a engine blow out. Sand, leaves and river grass will clog it very fast and your engine will over heat. A sand trap can be used to stop debris from entering the cooling system. It uses centrifugal force to separate the debris out. I hope you understand my sloppy english. English is not my first language. Keep up the good work. I always watch posts from you and Cleetus.
You got better English than half the native speakers I see lmao
Still I can’t imagine running coolant water to the engine right from the river even with filters. Even filtered water contains particles of grass and some others stuffs, which sooner or later can clog the coolant lines of engine. Did you try to set 2 circuits of cooling? Like inner with distilled water being cooled by river water through heat exchanger. That should be safer for engine, isn’t it?
@@lpcrewaw Normal outboard engines run river or salt water straight true the engine but they are designed for it. That is were the centrifugal sand trap filter work good to trap sand and debris and it can easily be drained out.
@@rayreeves4681 Google.
@@lpcrewaw it’s called raw water cooling just about every outboard In board out board , jet ski , jet boat even plenty of straight inboards it works well since you have a constant intake water temp sand traps are great . Rust is a big thing in many areas but you can still flush and rod . The other option is a heat exchanger where the mtr is cooled with a sealed system water loop through a heat exchange cooled by raw water with a constant flow in and out of heat exchanger with raw water existing ( most times ) out through risers and exhaust manifold(s)
That pump is not designed to suck it's designed for high flow rate using an impeller. The downside to a diaphragm pump is the flow rate is usually low. You might actually be better off with that one but count on a bit of water pushing into it to get it started. I'm sure there is a solution that starts right up and has high flow rate if you are willing to pay for it tho. Ask someone who knows what they are talking about, I'm sure you will. The project looks great.
That pump system is hilarious. All you need is a positive displacement rubber vein pump like they have on any boat
Apogee is the best, They are right down the street from me and fixed my livestock trailers up really nice.
Apogee is top tier!
Apogee is great! They fixed up my trailer and did great work!
PLEASE bring this thing up to the ozarks so i can get a look at it. The craftsmanship is *stellar* from both the Thai boat crew and your own
U sir are gonna make this thing so perfect! Ur killing it Parker. Looking amazing
Awesome video man! Can't wait to see it rippin!!
Awesome brother. I was in Thailand last year and was like America would love these boats. Too fun 💪
When it comes to sealing through hull ports/connections 3M 4200 and 5200 is the way to go. One thing I have learned from using the stuff is do not lick/wet your finger and try to slick the seam of out. You can do it dry with a tool (I cut and sand plastic dough scrapers to my desired profile and carefully run it along/over the bead of 4200/5200 I applied. Additionally less is more when caulking seems etc.
Hey Parker just subscribed and watched your HOA live stream, me and my girlfriend have a house in an HOA. It is the biggest load of crap.. love to see you fight back at them best of luck, love the content so far and will keep supporting and watching. Cheers
I'm glad you guys like Thailand's boats. Hope you have fun and are ready to race your boat to Thailand to let them know how hard you tried!!
nice music with the new vid! cant wait to see you ripping this thing all the time!
This video has very good content. I'll be waiting to watch this long-tail boat sail in the water.👍
For the cooling system you could shape 2 inlets directly shaped in the haul if it’s a solid wood sandwich or you can also bore those inlets with a CNC and make custom CNC inlets that screws and fits flush in those inserts and comes up inside the boat with AN fitting’s
That boat is absolutely going to fly on the water. Aint no air boat going to catch that beautiful boat when you get it finished Parker.
I dig that custom bender @1:45 That trailer looks like its massive overkill. I love it. We've hauled boats from Tennessee to The Keys many times, and I appreciate a good boat trailer, haha.
This dude is good stuff! Spreading the word to the TH-cam peoples!
Excited to see end product
Good spotting the engine's damage and taking care of it!
Let’s go can’t wait to see it rip! Looking good dr. Parker!
You're over complicating the water system. If you're that worried about debris use a closed loop. Otherwise that filter on an open loop will get clogged in the first couple hours. I'm from south Louisiana. We've had long tails and surface drives and inboard mud boats for decades. Open or closed loop without filters is the way to go.
This longtail boat is super cool and huge, I'm super excited!💯🔥
it would be cool doing a series running that up the Mississippi from the golf to the boundary waters in Minnesota
Your HOA isn't gonna like this parker out front of your house. 😂
Maybe post a 200$ river boat rides on the community msg board first? Emojis disabled ;)
I would use stainless steel hard line for those water lines. Either bend it tight to the swim step or drill holes for hard lines to pass threw
First Longtail bout in th country,
Going to be funny to see all the American Longtail TH-cam college grads come out of the woodwork.
It was so awesome that I wanted to watch it again.
FORD RAPTOR R!! You breezed over the fact that you got a new truck and it’s not just any F150 it’s a BADASS Ford RAPTOR R! Earlier when you were talking to Whelen about lighting I thought that was Garrett’s Raptor R but then I caught sight of it, Congrats that’s a Beautiful Badass truck
Great video Parker. This boats gunna be kickass
This long-tail content is great!
Hello, did you know that the diesel engine in your boat can power a drag car that can run a quarter mile in less than eight seconds? I think many Thai people dream of seeing this engine run in the United States again after it has run a long time ago. I hope you might have the idea to build a drag car with the engine from your boat. Most Thai people would be very happy.
So for your lines what about using your billet idea but have hard lines with an fittings on top and bottom so you don’t have a risk of leak in anyway also helps if a line breaks just replace a top line or a bottom line
In dirt late models (specifically supers) we run a dry sump and use a flywheel driven oil, fuel, and power steering pump(they’re all one assembly but you can take them apart and just run a 1,2,or 3 pump setup but the one we have has had a primer like the one you showed it allows us to prime the fuel system, and oil system (power steering systems doesn’t matter but technically it primed it also because it primed every pump you have on the assembly)
You can also is have a time delay relay to keep it running on shut down, your Turbo will love ya! It's not a new idea, 60's n 70's. Nice trailer!
I think copper piping would look sick on the outside !
Copper would look so sick!! But the saltwater would make it not sick in about 1 months lol
Parker please don’t get offended. I think you are approaching this using what you know which is automotive experience. This entire system you have set up is grossly over complicated, undersized, over restrictive, meant for oil or fuel not salt water, and doomed to fail in salt water/marine elements. You need a marine cooling system. You don’t need a complicated closed loop cooling system with a heat exchanger. You are going to be trailering it so I would assume you would flush the engine on a garden hose with fresh water after every use. Open loop cooling is the way to go. You only need one water intake hose and the hot water discharges overboard. Most marinized engines have a crankshaft or belt driven seawater pump that uses brass housings with rubber impellers that feeds into a belt driven circulating pump. Or on inboard outboard style engines the lower unit has a rubber impeller water pump that feeds the circulating pump on the engine. And they make inline water filters for hoses in all different sizes where you can just unscrew the clear housing and clean the screen. West marine sells them. Belt driven water pumps are good for marine applications because the flow rate changes with the rpms. Are you running a thermostat in that engine? You can use an electric water pump for cooling if you really want to but I would definitely use one that has an adequate flow rate and is self priming. Jabsco makes really good pumps and the impellers are rubber and replaceable. If I were you, I would consult an inboard marine mechanic, tell him what you are trying to do, and ask him if he can recommend you a simple open loop cooling system that you can make using products right out of the west marine or sierra catalog. Automotive components just aren’t the best application for what you are trying to do. You are wasting a lot of money with all those AN lines and fittings. Regular coast guard rated under deck waterline from west marine with good stainless steel clamps is sure to last and look simple and clean. AN stuff is good for fuel and oil but for an open loop raw water cooling system it is just a waste. The water pickups that came on your boat will only feed water to the electric pump when it is moving and picks up enough speed through the water to build enough water pressure. It is going to be a nightmare always having to prime that water pump before starting the boat and always babysitting it and worrying if the pump is staying primed or if it got airbound. If you didn’t have that strange twin layered hull I would recommend using a regular style marine seacock with a ball valve to feed your cooling system. You could even use a fancier graco sea strainer if you are worried about sand and river debris. Personally if it were my boat. I would harvest the entire closed loop cooling system off of a junked boat off Craigslist that has a mercruiser engine that is fresh water cooled, Rob the heat exchanger and components off of it, rig up a pulley driven seawater pump, use the factory Isuzu circulating pump that came on it when it was in a truck or whatever brand that engine is,make some brackets to mount the pump inline with the rest of the pulleys, put whatever length belt it requires, and mount the heat exchanger. Use the raw water side of the heat exchanger outlet to cool the exhaust and dump the hot discharge water overboard through a hose into a through hull fitting. I wish I wasn’t in Connecticut. I could go to west marine with you and rig up exactly what you need in a few hours! But for now. Keep it simple. Copy the cooling system that you had that you know worked, ditch the automotive stuff. Use the inline water strainer from west marine. Get a self priming water pump with a good flow rate and use that instead of the water pump that you have. And next season you can rebuild the entire cooling system to marine standards. Keep up the good work brother. Love the build!
Wow, thanks for all that. Experience is the best teacher and you sound experienced.
Ur completely right
100% no sense in recreating the wheel.
To be fair, Parker is not wrong for wanting to have a pump feeding his cooling system. He has one main hurtle that makes feeding his cooling system a bit tricky when the boat isn’t at speed, which is the design of the hull of that boat and the high speed water pickups for the cooling hoses. Because it doesn’t have a conventional boat hull with one homogenous layer and it has that twin layered double hull that fills with water at slow speed to idle speed, and drains out at planing speeds, he isn’t able to just drill a hole through the bilge on the bottom of the hull and thread in a through hull fitting for a sea cock. Normal inboard style boats have the seacock located on the underside of the hull well below the waterline so that the hydrostatic pressure of the water is high enough to push water up through the seacock and feeding the water pump with no need to prime the water pump. It always has sufficient water pressure to feed the intake side of the pump as long as the through hull fitting is under water. Parker would have to drill through both layers of the hull and somehow bridge the hollow gap inside the hull layers to be able to get the seacock to extend from the inside of his bilge compartment through the exterior of the outer hull which will be a nightmare to install and seal properly and make watertight, not to mention it creates a weak spot in the hulls that is sure to start rotting once water inevitably gets into the wood. The way Parker’s boat came, the water pickups being located in the back just under the bottom side of the hull allows for the fast moving stream of water to feed and pressurize the cooling system as it is passing under the hull when the boat is at speed. It’s like sticking your mouth up to a stream of water to take a drink from the garden hose while it is spraying. The problem with this is changes in the diameter of the water pickup tubes will change how much pressure and flow you get to the cooling system. I’m guessing that the guys who designed Parker’s whole setup did all of the trial and error and testing to determine the correct size for those pickup tubes. The high speed pickup tubes will feed the cooling system as long as the boat is moving fast enough but if Parker slows down enough or comes to idle speed in situations like docking, trailering, or no wake zones, the cooling system may not be getting enough water. This is why most all inboard marine engines have a seawater pump to feed the system, and a circulating pump to, circulate the cooling water through the block or system. So again, Parker is absolutely right for wanting to have some sort of pump to feed his cooling system so that at low speeds or idle speeds when there is not sufficient pressure from the high speed water pickup tubes, the engine is still getting adequate supply of cooling water. The design of that hull makes traditional seacock through hull mounting a challenge, so pickup tubes are perfectly fine for this design. And as far as the cooling system, there isn’t much different or wrong about the way that it was originally set up when compared to traditional inboard cooling systems. The only difference is the builder in Thailand used an electric pump instead of a belt/crank/shaft driven seawater pump. I personally would prefer a mechanically driven seawater pump that varies in speed with the rpms over the constant flow of an electric seawater pump. But at the end of the day, if it worked the way the original builder set it up in Thailand, and that is how the guys typically set up their cooling systems on most long tail boats, then what the heck?! Like the gentleman above said. No need to reinvent the wheel. Parker should stick to his plan and use the same design that worked originally but make some improvements like better hoses, clamps, mounting, and routing to dress things up and make things neater and more reliable rather than using watever pieces of garden hose and tubing that was laying around. From watching a lot of boating and sailing vlogs and TH-cam videos in Thailand, I must say, the people of Thailand are some of the most clever, creative, resourceful, and innovative people that I have ever seen! They are able to create, modify, repair, and improve anything no matter what they have for resources to work with. They definitely accomplish the most out of the least, and are extremely resourceful and always find usefulness in everything. If you go to any of the little shops, tents, or markets where people run their businesses, you will be able to find absolutely any replacement part that you need for absolutely anything and if they don’t have what you need in stock, they will make, machine, or manufacture exactly what you need on the spot! They will find a solution for you no matter what and they will charge you next to nothing if they even allow you to pay them at all. The Thai are such a kind, generous, resourceful, welcoming, and beautiful people! I think Parker is on the right track and he will figure out whatever works best for his boat by getting out there, running it, testing it, and refining his setup through trial and error until it is right just like any of the race car projects he has built! I know he will get that thing dialed in and ready to Rip!
I rly hope Mr teeth and turbskies aka Parker sees this!! Good job boys. This is the way it’s supposed to be done. Always help a fellow angler / boater not just because it’s the right thing to do but because it’s our responsibility and duty to want too as we’d hope and want others to help us! - “60 pound sturgeon on 6 pound test, fish on !!” Maverick outtt 🫡
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3m 5300 to seal your plates marine stuff
5200 but only if you never ever want it to come off again. It’ll rip your wood apart.
Wood boats love moisture and being in the water
You want to make sure you store it in the right conditions too because it can shrink and crack.
You can polish your coated surefaces with regular automotive polishes
Look into brass beer draft system parts and connectors for connecting to bar tops.... may have something to get through that swim platform.
Seal any hole you put in the boat with 3m 5200 nothing else will hold up and stay water tight
Bullshit! It's not silicone! It's structural adhesive and permanent. Fuckin people and 5200... 🤦♂️💩
This is most OEM spec under waterline thru hull sealant and most marine shops will use this 5200 I do think it only comes in white though.
@rexxx927 doesn't make it right because "shops" use it. Typical sheeple effect...
They make it in black, have a tube.
I'm betting that is exactly what Mr. Sam was talking about. That stuff is no joke.
@@codysp so 5200 is wrong I don't get your angle, anyhow Chat Cody here noted there is black available unless it turns out 5200 is not a thru hull under water line sealant and is not a standard or under a sheeple flipping genius tip so don't use what's tested and tied the test of time if you know this guy save the sheeple effect what's next you gonna tell me a Whipple is bad of my health next? and that's typical are there others yes but there is only one of you and me, what a chit post
Angle the tube for the water pump towards the front of the boat get moving first so that the force of the boat going forward pushes water up into the line then turn on the pump
Quite a few companies(IMCO included) make a transom mounted water pickups (typically for V drive applications). Might be easier to ditch the original pickups and run them through the transom.
Im glad you like my renderings my friend. Excited to see the next video.
Bro you crushed it! Making your dream a reality
Well done buddy! That thing is going to be awesome! well it already is but....
I find myself trying to watch your boat videos more than cletus's I love boats!
Sam always has good advice
He really does
Check valve or one way valve close to the pickup would keep prime for most pumps. Basically what the primer ball does.
Use 4200 or 5200 sealant if your gonna use the billet piece for the water pickup. You don’t want any water getting in the boat. Especially if it Dosent have any access point into that compartment. Unless you drill another hole in the bottom side for a flush mouth drain. Best of luck and can’t wait to see it get going.
Do not use 5200 on anything unless you're gluing a boat together. It's not silicone. Shit is fuckin permanent.
8:12 everyone has that one brother that won't shut up 😂😂
There's no way someone tore that motor down and didn't see that.
A simple check valve on the water inlet will fix your prime issue. When the pump gets turned off the inlet hose shuts off and holds water inside the hose and pump
I am so excited!!!! Let’s gooooo!!
Here are some thoughts put the pass though in that plate in the deck or the whole in the underside of the deck and plate it off. You could have wings on the outside of the deck and run the pipes up though that wing.
Dude I been on this for 2 years u beat me 2 it happy for u
Put a lot of led marker lights on the sides and back of the trailer, I have my airboat trl like that, When traveling at night if someone hits it there either drunk or blind one, Enjoy your videos from central Fl.
Great update video... Just one thing. Too many commercials for tuffring brother! I'm ok with one ad but 3 of the same in one video brother?
Still love the video man.
I know but videos aren’t free to make!
@@DrMitchell True man, no hate here.
LOL, that silicone ring was funny as hell!!!!🤣👍
Hope you fix that engine tune as the run in Thailand had ridiculously high over fueling occurring.
seriously tired or baked in the narrating video 😂
Too much hot sauce! 🤑
Parker I have the best idea for your first trip on the Gator Tail! 🐊 You should rip that thing through the intercostal exactly 20 miles up the coastline to…..what better destination than “LongBoat Key!” How fitting is it to take a Thai longboat to longboat key!? You could leave from Venice Public Boat ramp across from the Historic Train Depot and zoom North-Northwest up the inter-coastal, tie up the boat at the Old Salty Dog waterfront Bar and Restaurant and celebrate the 1st trip with some drinks and food! And if you don’t feel like driving the boat all the way back to Venice you can have someone meet you or park your truck and new badass trailer at the Ken Thompson Boat Ramp which is right next door to the Old Salty Dog Restaurant, both on Ken Thompson Parkway. The boat ramp and restaurant are right there nest to a beautiful sandbar that you can anchor up at, at the mouth of the pass into Sarasota bay! I can only imagine the look on people’s faces when a 50 foot long, Thai, Long Tail River Boat goes screaming through the inter-coastal rolling coal at 70mph!
Would be cool, when this is all said an done if you could fly your Thailand contact out here to see the boat. Having been over there, I believe he would go nuts seeing the boat and the Eagles you added to their style
Please fully polish the trailer it would look so good
Parker, what an fantastic and interesting video. Gatortail is on her way. That trailer is sick. It's great that you are promoting the local guys. I'm getting fired up about her just like you. lol I think It's awesome that your showing that ring to all the people and what it did to LS's finger. At home mechanic's beware! Hugs the Caroline and Winston. Peace.
3m 5200 is the best sealant/glue made for wood boats. It takes a week to dry but it is the best there is
Man, Whelen has sponsored the nascar sanctioned modifieds for as long as i can remember. Pretty cool to see the guys using them.
ขอให้คุณทำมันสำเร็จนะ🎉🎊😊
🇹🇭
Parker use 5200 it will be a permanent seal and is made for exactly what you need to do with the water problem on the swim platform
that big long boat is gong to crack with that solid axle
I like that you're redoing a lot of it with American products and quality work. Also, had no idea about the flooding ballast system in the hull, that's amazing
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Hey buddy you should just have the guy that is making the logos have him put the logo into pieces of flat aluminum and then weld them to the top and bottom of the I beams and then put some cool colored lights that can go behind the logos and light up the logo’s!!! To finish the logos off you could either leave both sides open or take some aluminum and have them welded to each side of the logos and then have them go at an angle to the center of the web of the I beams and have them fully welded in!!! I definitely think that would look totally cool and I would also think that it would help beef up the I beams also!!! By leaving both sides of the logo open the lights would show the logo and go out both sides of the logo and would depend on how big or how powerful of a light you might get will depend on how much light would protrude out both sides!! And if you would in close the logo the light would only protrude out the logo!!! Hopefully this all makes sense to you and I definitely think it would look sick showing off the logos that way instead of just welding the logo onto the inner web of the I beams!!! Let me know what you think of this idea???
Thats cool showing 😎 people to deal with 👍
Low water pick will work fine
Did the boys do a quick piston swap while wrapping it up for freight?
screw stickers! why compromise there? Maybe add more badges. amazing project regardless. cheers!
I have a question for Dillon from oceangrip! I noticed your proliner is bright orange, did you paint that yourself or was that an option? Just wondering because ours is blue!
What a unit nice job great content, blending too its original yet smooth the whole damn thing is great your killing it. cheers from Ontario Canada
DAMN…….. now that’s one long trailer………⚓️⚓️⚓️⚓️⚓️⚓️⚓️⚓️⚓️⚓️⚓️⚓️⚓️⚓️⚓️⚓️
gonna pitch it again due to proximity and expertise...see if you can get ryan milliken to tune that thing when its ready to rip
Look up lumilor electric paint. I feel like this project deserves some lumilor electric paint in a few places.
is it just me or does Parker look stoned at his 9:00 interview.. haha
Did anyone else think Parker seemed …HIGH? Lmao Dr.Toker ☺️
How many wedding rings you lose? Awesome boat content!
Ahhh wise words from Mr. Sam💪🏻
💪😎 dude I can't wait .. I wanna see 100 mph 😏👌
The water pump is going to work just fine. You have to remember the boat sitting in the water. The water is going to try to push in self prime, basically.
What type tow rig are you going to use for the boat trailer?
RaptorR
Can't wait for the offshore shark fishing videos!
Theres a reason the builder do the things they do because it works .... im sure they have tried it all and if it aint broke dont fix it I'm sure the angle size and placement is there for a reason mechanical wise that it...... edit guess there's some broken .... but I'm sure you get my point
I'd sure like a close-up of those spool gun welds. 😂😂😂
Stainless steel sleeve with flared ends and a round 3’ mount
ฉันชอบวีดีโอของคุณมาก หวังว่าจะได้เห็นเรือลำนี้วิ่งจริงในเร็วๆนี้ fc thailand
จะสร้างเรือแบบไหนครับ
11:44 gotta love that threaded wood 😂
Great vid, but do we really need three ads for the silicone ring man. Just saying but keep up the good work bro.
3m 5200 silicone to seal the pass-through
I've been wearing tuffring for a few years now don't need my finger getting cut off due to a ring being crushed into my finger worth the money
How does the front ballast work? If the water comes in from the holes on the back, after on high speed it should come out, no?
That's the idea, yeah. A lot of larger fishing boats have the same system. Water floods the chambers so it rocks less at rest. When you start driving away it just drains out.
@@72mardy thx mate!
@@lpcrewaw no worries mate