Just got my first buzz box at 34 years old. Put down my first 7018 AC beads. Nasty sunburn on my legs from wearing shorts like a dummy. Thanks for the videos. I've seen most of them. So informative. You do a great job! Thanks
I've worked at two different nuclear power plants back in the 80s, a lot of times I would check out 3 pounds of 7018 3/32, we was allowed to take 12 rods out of our portable Rod Caddy at a time put them in a rod pouch, if we didn't use them by lunch time, or after 4 hrs we had to fold them in half, put them in a stub bucket not to be used, at the end of the day we had to bring our used rods and the folded rods back to the rod trailer, they would write down the information and put back the unused rods from the portable rod caddy into their ovens, they used a 53 foot semi trailer for the rod storage, they had their rods ovens two high on both sides, one night the power went out and the temperature of the rides dropped enough to where the NRC (Nuclear regulatory commission) did not feel safe to use them, so they scrap them all, bought new rods loaded the ovens, and we had to wait for two days before we can continue welding again,The 7018 electrodes back in them days had to be in the oven in order to perform properly, they have rods today that are listed at 7018 that do not have to be in the oven, but out of respect for the tradition and to reduce any prosody or any defects I would continue using the oven anyway,I watch all your videos I really like what you're doing to help inform new welders coming up through the ranks and even season welders too
When I was in welding school, about 35 years ago, one of the first things we learned was that 7018 needed to be kept in an oven, and I subscribe to that theory if you're talking about any kind of code welding, such as shipyard or structural steel applications. On the other hand I've ran a lot of 7018 for general repair or hobby welding that was not kept in an oven, and had been sitting in my garage or on a shelf at work with good results. I wouldn't trust it for anything that needed to be X-rayed, but for an engine stand or utility trailer, etc... it seems to work fine.
i only been welding for 3months now just for a hobby and working on my race car. i gotta say i watch your vids everyday sometimes catch myself watching the same video over n over again trying to learn as much as possible . i been tig welding steel and aluminum and i have people at work blown away and i got some co workers watching your vids now . im just getting into stick welding now ..so again thanks for your great welding vids and teachings. . Dont stop lol
I love 7018. You guys are all pro's. I am just an old farmer that knows how to make things stick together and that is my rod of choice. Oh yea ,no oven.
I agree. I loved the information on this video. I haven't stick welded with 7018 in a while probably only when I first got my everlast welder a couple of years ago. Great to refresh my memory
I keep all my stick rods in an oven. I found they just weld better. Used Hobart and Lincoln for years with no problems. When I bought some Off Brand KOREAN rods I had major problems. I stick to Hobart, Lincoln or ESAB rods. Cost more, but get what you pay for. Love your videos, earn something every time. Thanks. Mike
it's funny hearing Mr. Jody say I need practice"...the amount of welding he does in comparison to how much I do, I would need to go all the way back to school again! great videos Mr. Jody and thanks for your service...
Hi Jody. Last year I had to weld some tooth shanks on my excavator bucket. I found about 50 pounds of 25 year old Lincoln 1/8 7018s under a bench that had fur growing on them. I tried them to see how bad they would run or how bad they would fingernail and as soon as I had a problem I would stop and throw them away. Wound up doing the whole job with them, and a year later, with ripples of the beads worn smooth from digging, teeth still on, no cracks, welds strong. Made in U.S.A.
John C I just think too much moisture make the arc unstable, lot of sparks and projections, so the job is uneasy . bubbles and hidden inclusions may occur so I understand professional jobs ask for specific conditions. ( indeed I tried Lincoln 6013 type 46 after having used other locally made and a nice difference )
All of his welds are better than any of my best efforts. I'm just a hobby welder at the moment with an everlast welder at home but I sure hope I can take some courses and make a career out of this. I need more hood time though.
I keep my 7018 in a small rod oven. Where I live, the air is so humid that it keeps them fresh, keeps the rust off and they just seem to run better. Although it discourages me from opening a new can because my rod oven only holds 10lbs, and it's currently occupied with 3/32 Excalibur rods. Sometimes I need 1/8 and won't open a new can because I don't have the space in my oven for them. Maybe after I read Jody's article it'll change my mind.
Its a matter of preference I think. If you need a clean weld that is applied to lets say high pressure pipe weld ? Then yes oven rods are important to use in that type of application.. I would say over head welds would be another time to use oven prepared rods. Even though we know the rods weld much better dry with no moisture,it is not always needed. Cheers and happy welding.
you should compare some mig pulse welding or "stitch" and continuous bead and check the strength between the too. alot of hot rod ppl will go with a stitch weld look on frames and such and i feel that isn't near as strong since its alot of cooling time before pulses and each tack doesn't fully penetrate.
I enjoy the Hobart H4R 7018, found them to be great rods and theres something about the flux that I find is almost a weld indicator. If prep was good and so was the weld, the flux is a nice light milky brown and comes off really easy, but if your weld prep was sub par or maybe you had too much arc length or too slow travel speed (they seem to prefer strings from my experience but I've done on site structural welding 100% visual and had no problems with weaves) good rods at a price cheaper than ESAB OK 55's ill take it, never ran a Lincoln 7018 but i imagine they'd handle just fine.
HI! there is lot of confersation to use to oven and stick heater. I got to say example europe welding stardat PED give your frames to to do welding jobs from a begining at to the end. you have to put rods to the oven and after that is possible use heaters in the job sites. you can avoid certain welding mistakes to use heated rods. what comes that melted sticks after it reach to the very end in here finland we use hand remote to addjust amperages keep arc voltage steady.
These discussions about low-hydrogen rods always focus on oven vs. no oven, as though heat were the important factor. It isn't. The important thing is to keep all moisture, all water, out of the flux. Water contains hydrogen and can contaminate the weld. Low hydrogen rods can be kept in any environment that will not allow hydrogen-containing substances, like water or hydrocarbons, to contaminate the flux. An oven is a sure-fire way to do that. If you keep the temperature well above the dew point, and preferably above the boiling point of water, no contamination occurs. But you can also store low-hydrogen rods in a dry nitrogen atmosphere, dry CO2, helium, argon, oxygen, or a vacuum. Whatever you like, as long as no hydrogen can penetrate into the flux. These other methods are not as simple and sure-fire as an oven. It's good to keep things simple and foolproof. Ovens also provide easy access to the rods. Just open the door. An oven works as long as electricity doesn't fail for a long period of time. On the other hand, if you need to store these rods for really long periods of time, like months or years, it costs energy/money to keep an oven hot. Other methods like dry nitrogen cost nothing to maintain but you don't have easy access to the rods.
7018 is a low hydrogen electrode. If you use them, normally u have like 8h of use before u have to bake them, if they come out vacuum. U cannot keep them in an oven on high temp, you will damage the coating. If they are not in a vac pack you have to bake them (+-572°F) for +-2 hours before use. You can also use this rule for electrodes out of a vac pack after more than 8 hours. For storage best check the temp and humidity. Store around 86° F and low humidity (for best result). Before use, bake them again, you can bake max 2 times. The big problem with the moister (if you do not bake) is hydrogen cracking, but this is normally not on thin metal and you will not see a difference is weld metal only in the arc itself. If you weld thicker metal, the hydrogen cannot diffuse anymore and than there is a chance on hydrogen cracking, but this is also not noticeable in the weld metal, except if it cracks obviously, but maybe that's a bit of topic.
When I was welding at the Forward Brothers mill in Red Bluff CA - Ben my boss said always keep them in the oven and dry and then later in mostly dry country didn't seem to matter too much. I guess I will keep them in the oven just for grins and Ben
a friend just keep his 7018 in a closed plastic box on the top of a tall furniture in his house so it is a dry environment. a one hour stand in an hot oven the day before at night if he need to use them in the morning. he say that works for him that way.
Its amazing how many ways of doing things there are. I went to the steel store and just open in a box without any care was the LH rod and I asked they why and they said didn't matter to them. (HUH)
7018’s are low hydrogen rods, and you can only take advantage of that if you store them in a rod oven. Otherwise they are just a much better version of 6013
7018 is a low hydrogen rod however it doesn't need to be baked unless it is specified which is usually for military or structual codes. other than that it usually isn't too much a big deal unless specified
I feel like they need to stay in an oven most because that's what's been drilled into my head in school lol but on another note Jody my girl friend got me your tig finger bundle for my birthday and it's amazing way better than trying to put a tig cup on your finger to free hand
I've pulled 7018 Stubbs out of a mud puddle and use them to attack my ground on to what I was welding and it's startling how strong it still is. I do not think you need to have your 7018 rod in an oven.
I'd like to see a test of how cold you have to run in order to get insufficient penetration. With stick, penetration is usually about as good as it gets, and between that and the vertical uphill, I bet it would still do fine even below 70 amps.
I prefer ESAB 7018 far and away over either Lincoln or Hobart , welded code for years and have run them all,, used to be Atom Arc, but ESAB bought them out... give it a whirl, you might like it.
Looks like all that buzzbox amperage control needs is to be tightened up, taking some of the slack out of it. Calibrate it with your meter and tighten up the adjustment mechanism, maybe adding some friction between the adjustment handle and the white indicator. Five minutes of work to bring the unit up to where you can rely on it.
I have always felt the slag on the Hobart rods was hard to chip especially in side of a tight joint where it may be hard to chip it seems chalky and stiff
Very nice video as usual. What solution are you using to etch with now? You mentioned a while back going with something a bit "hotter", curious to know what that is.
Hi Jodi great videos been a fan of yours ever since you started the videos. An I was wondering if you could make a video on tig cups? like what the numbers mean when to use smaller cup sizes an when you should use those big ones?
Hey Jody can you film a video where you weld a different types of materials together? Or there is alreday video with this theme... Your videos are great, Iam going on engineering college and this helps me to see what is REAL welding. Greetings from Croatia! (Sorry for bad english)
Haven't read your article yet, but I'll take a guess: FALSE, if the application doesn't require (e.g. code spec'd) a true low-hydrogen weld, then using "left in the open" 7018 is no worse than using 7014, 6013, etc... none of which are low-hydrogen rods. TRUE, if the application requires a true low-hydrogen weld. In short, for those of us doing general purpose, non-coded welding, an oven isn't needed.
nemodetroit I remember in school the teacher said an old trick to somewhat "dry" out a 7018 is to get it suck and let it heat up for a second. I do wonder if that would make any real difference.
I work in a shipyard as a steel fitter/shipfitter/ hull fab (different names but same thing). Fitters use all Lincoln 7018 and the "weldors" come behind with .052 dual flux . Anyway... Since we work around water and have surprise rain storms, I've (don't judge me) stuck the completely wet rod and wait for it to stop steaming. Wiggle loose and wait a few seconds to cool a bit, and then fire back up. 15 years experience. I don't do this all the time but it actually works in a pinch with a perfect looking weld result. Also, just bought 25lbs of Hobart 7018's that were shot off the shelf. Lincoln rods all the way.
im going off the cuff here. low hydrogen rods need to be kept in the oven for 4 hours before use for code welding. then for every 6 hours left out they need to be put back in the oven?
The specifics depend on the code and humidity. The hydrogen comes from water absorbed from the air. For nuclear power plant critical they can be out of the oven for only 2 hours and then discarded, no reheating allowed. Oven temp is also a factor, with holding being a lower temp than the heating/refreshing temp. most code work will allow 4 hours out of the oven and mention the minimum reheat conditions.
My Sharoner I was explained that new rods can take 30 hours of 600 or 662 F which allows for about ten cookings. I did heard of 3 times only so it was good news. staying in the oven after cooking at a much lower temperature 176 -248F guarantees that no moisture will enter the graphite coating (which is the primary cause of that "cooking/drying"), so the rods are in a similar condition than just after first heating. Now only a few rods are out of the big oven at a time, then kept in the portative one. ( or pre dried rods are used from a closed bag , as 48.00 ESAB, they are good for 9 hours I think) any customer may have its specific code then, it is their right to ask for.
wolfedog99 highly hygroscopic graphite coating. possibly absorbing more humidity than sillicate crystals, if not sillicate crystal pouches would be better considered than "better than nothing for conservation " that was answered to me when I asked. I only have answers from one rod maker and consider myself lucky as this seem to be secret recipes. I think the general lines should be more available to public as not to cook 6010 or all position rods generally. better than degrade rods by mistake.
wolfedog99 also the large oven is at high temp only for the 3 to 3.5 hours needed then only a low temperature is kept inside. just enough to have no moisture inside hence about 212 F probably.
possibly also a hot/warm rod will attract moisture from the air more easily than if it is cold, This do not help the oven managment when outdoors, and cooking the night before then letting cool so the rods are cold next day, seem to me a good manner
Just like most things welding, the answer for 7018 rod ovens is it depends. stickin a hay rake back together? sittin on a bucket, burning some rod in the yard? you gonna be just fine. doin a retrofit to an existing overpass on the interstate? man, keep them things warm.
Hy Jody. In the Video the ARc length looks to big vor an alkaline welding electrode. Answer of your Question: Follow the Pruducer Specifications. Its recommend to bake the elektrode in an Ofen. Greetings from Austria.
WeldDuck Do you think you can make a really shorter arc when rising in an angle without sticking ? it is interesting that you say that I was said the same and it could be for flat weld in the video, half the rod diameter for alkaline (we call them basic in french) and a full rod for 6013 ( and for 6010 may be because of the flux drop mode ?) I am no professional welder just learning for my own purpose, but I am of the "curious" type ;) greetings from Paris.
I know it only from the welding Electrode Brand Called Böhler fox EV 50. Voestalpine Böhler WElding recommend the Arc length for this elctrode 0,5mm * Diameter of the Electrode (0,5*2,5= 1,25mm Arc Length.
I must say that's quite the chincy handle lol. the Miller mig and stick welders (240v) i own both have cast aluminum handle assemblies with a bearing on the shaft you put your hand on. it must be over 30 years old, and that shit still feels like new.
On rods in an oven? I'll try to say this clearly - follow the welding procedure. If it calls for your 7018 rods to be heated and properly low hydrogen before welding, do it. If you're doing something on your own, probably not important - just be aware of the potential issues of hydrogen embrittlement and other problems. So ultimately, the answer is it depends - but 'follow the welding procedures' is the best answer.
If you are on site without electrode oven, tap electrode onto live job without making an arch and watch the moistures come out of the electrode and you should be good to go, not suitable for power stations or sub building, but then these guys are welding to a much higher specifaction.
Ok so I have a noob type of question. Is it possible to weld with a Lincoln AC tombstone on auto exhaust, and if it's possible what electrode would be best for this application? My Lincoln is all I have to work with.
Phillip Bishop - possible? Maybe. what the issue is you're welding on thin wall materials with a hot process. combine that with welding around a small circumference pipe, and you have some of the most difficult welding one can attempt. I would advise coming some short sections of the pipe you intend to weld and trying it ( be aware of galvanized pipe and its dangers). You will want the smallest Rod you can find, and weld as low as you can amperage wise. give her a whirl and see what happens and that'll tell you whether it's possible for You to weld what you're asking.
May be asking a bit much here, but somebody out there must be able to scientifically measure the difference between a 7018 and 7014 weld, when both are stored at "atmospheric" conditions (not in an oven) and say whether the 7018 weld had more hydrogen entrapment/embrittlement than the 7014, and also do xray, destructive, bend testing of both samples. 7014 isn't allowed in welds where low-hy is req'd, but is a 7018 stored in non-oven/non-sealed conditions actually any worse? I'd be surprised if AWS hasn't already measured this somewhere...
my opinion I think 7018 should be kept in a rod oven if the weld is going to be X-rayed, other then that if you weld hot enough there should be no problems
I've used 6013 and 7018 not on any structure just building tool's I need to work on home job's witch of the is best I'm going to build 4 metal saw horses and just wanting to know witch would be better.
Rufus Chucklebutty hi . try to look at the 2 regulations at the beginning of the video more than once and notice the difference with the 90 and 80 A. Now if you use an inverter with "arc control" it will add amps as you will be close to the edge so you can regulate that "arc force" to use 10% for instance, or zero, for up hill.
Rufus Chucklebutty DC + may help as well. I am not professional but noticed how natural and easy it seem when rising with a gentle inverted smile, then you use a cold side to mount your weld on as alternatively there is a side that cools off.
Gordon Reiher You need an DC/AC amp clamp meter and hook it to one of the cables to measure the actual amperage flowing thru the wire. It a good trick for an unreliable amp adjusment mechanism/potentiometer.
Off topic, but still worth a mention. I have noticed a new addition to your last few vids & I find it disappointing that you feel a need to begin your vids with a 'NOT SPONSORED' disclaimer. Week after week you share your gold mine of knowledge & experience with us. For arguments sake, let's say for free. There's guarantees people will buy from your shop (but I hope they do). So there's no guaranteed income or return... Yet the fact still remains these vids take time & money to produce. IMHO a welder, or any tradesman for that matter, of your caliber deserves all the recognition he/she gets. IF companies were approaching you to show or use their products this is recognition of the highest order. They're basically saying your shit is that good we want you to fly the banner for our company. The only thing people should be saying is congratulations, you deserve it! rant over! And thank you for your time and efforts Jody :)
69hytek I agree 100%. Thank you for the great videos Jody, sponsored or not, I believe you are a man of character, a sponsored video wouldn't contain anything but the truth.
me parece genial tus videos pero debes poner videos en castellano tambien porque yo soy del PERU y me es complicado traducirlos haver si sacas los videos en ingles y el mismo video en castellano gracias y saludos
True. Must keep the H2O out of the 7018 rods. When you run an electrical current through H20 you get hydrogen and oxygen gas. 2-H2O=.2-H2+02. So for every 2 water molecules you get one oxygen molecule and 2 Hydrogen molecules, Both are bad for welds and commonly cause porosity at the start of 7018 welds.
Just got my first buzz box at 34 years old. Put down my first 7018 AC beads. Nasty sunburn on my legs from wearing shorts like a dummy. Thanks for the videos. I've seen most of them. So informative. You do a great job! Thanks
Qwqqqqqqqqqqqqq
I have never seen the difference in grain like that! Wow, what a difference in that second weave pass. Thanks Jody!
I've worked at two different nuclear power plants back in the 80s, a lot of times I would check out 3 pounds of 7018 3/32, we was allowed to take 12 rods out of our portable Rod Caddy at a time put them in a rod pouch, if we didn't use them by lunch time, or after 4 hrs we had to fold them in half, put them in a stub bucket not to be used, at the end of the day we had to bring our used rods and the folded rods back to the rod trailer, they would write down the information and put back the unused rods from the portable rod caddy into their ovens, they used a 53 foot semi trailer for the rod storage, they had their rods ovens two high on both sides, one night the power went out and the temperature of the rides dropped enough to where the NRC (Nuclear regulatory commission) did not feel safe to use them, so they scrap them all, bought new rods loaded the ovens, and we had to wait for two days before we can continue welding again,The 7018 electrodes back in them days had to be in the oven in order to perform properly, they have rods today that are listed at 7018 that do not have to be in the oven, but out of respect for the tradition and to reduce any prosody or any defects I would continue using the oven anyway,I watch all your videos I really like what you're doing to help inform new welders coming up through the ranks and even season welders too
Monnie Holt I ran some Excalibur 7018 rods and others
Monnie Holt 2/32 is one eighth welding rod just saying lol 1/16 lol jiat joking lol
Monnie Holt nickel rods them too . good video
Monnie Holt tig cool too cool info on tig
Monnie Holt in history how was welding done ? just asking no reply
When I was in welding school, about 35 years ago, one of the first things we learned was that 7018 needed to be kept in an oven, and I subscribe to that theory if you're talking about any kind of code welding, such as shipyard or structural steel applications. On the other hand I've ran a lot of 7018 for general repair or hobby welding that was not kept in an oven, and had been sitting in my garage or on a shelf at work with good results. I wouldn't trust it for anything that needed to be X-rayed, but for an engine stand or utility trailer, etc... it seems to work fine.
i only been welding for 3months now just for a hobby and working on my race car. i gotta say i watch your vids everyday sometimes catch myself watching the same video over n over again trying to learn as much as possible . i been tig welding steel and aluminum and i have people at work blown away and i got some co workers watching your vids now . im just getting into stick welding now ..so again thanks for your great welding vids and teachings. . Dont stop lol
I love 7018. You guys are all pro's. I am just an old farmer that knows how to make things stick together and that is my rod of choice. Oh yea ,no oven.
Great information in this one! The cut and etch on the weave pass was eye opening! Thanks for the great video!
I agree. I loved the information on this video. I haven't stick welded with 7018 in a while probably only when I first got my everlast welder a couple of years ago. Great to refresh my memory
I keep all my stick rods in an oven. I found they just weld better. Used Hobart and Lincoln for years with no problems. When I bought some Off Brand KOREAN rods I had major problems. I stick to Hobart, Lincoln or ESAB rods. Cost more, but get what you pay for. Love your videos, earn something every time. Thanks. Mike
it's funny hearing Mr. Jody say I need practice"...the amount of welding he does in comparison to how much I do, I would need to go all the way back to school again! great videos Mr. Jody and thanks for your service...
Hi Jody. Last year I had to weld some tooth shanks on my excavator bucket. I found about 50 pounds of 25 year old Lincoln 1/8 7018s under a bench that had fur growing on them. I tried them to see how bad they would run or how bad they would fingernail and as soon as I had a problem I would stop and throw them away. Wound up doing the whole job with them, and a year later, with ripples of the beads worn smooth from digging, teeth still on, no cracks, welds strong. Made in U.S.A.
John C I just think too much moisture make the arc unstable, lot of sparks and projections, so the job is uneasy . bubbles and hidden inclusions may occur so I understand professional jobs ask for specific conditions. ( indeed I tried Lincoln 6013 type 46 after having used other locally made and a nice difference )
Jody. Your rusty welds are way better than my best. Great video!
All of his welds are better than any of my best efforts. I'm just a hobby welder at the moment with an everlast welder at home but I sure hope I can take some courses and make a career out of this. I need more hood time though.
I keep my 7018 in a small rod oven. Where I live, the air is so humid that it keeps them fresh, keeps the rust off and they just seem to run better. Although it discourages me from opening a new can because my rod oven only holds 10lbs, and it's currently occupied with 3/32 Excalibur rods. Sometimes I need 1/8 and won't open a new can because I don't have the space in my oven for them. Maybe after I read Jody's article it'll change my mind.
As always, a great video. Thank you for all you do for the welding community.
Great video Jodie appreciate the metric conversion.
I'm coded to mma and notice a big difference in same code rods but different welds / slag.
Its a matter of preference I think. If you need a clean weld that is applied to lets say high pressure pipe weld ? Then yes oven rods are important to use in that type of application.. I would say over head welds would be another time to use oven prepared rods. Even though we know the rods weld much better dry with no moisture,it is not always needed. Cheers and happy welding.
Man! Where were you 20 yrs ago when I learned welding?! Love your videos! And that money shot was special!
The answer is TRUE.
I worked at a shop that had 7018 rods that were kept in an over and after 4 hours we had to put the ones we didn't use back in
you should compare some mig pulse welding or "stitch" and continuous bead and check the strength between the too. alot of hot rod ppl will go with a stitch weld look on frames and such and i feel that isn't near as strong since its alot of cooling time before pulses and each tack doesn't fully penetrate.
wow. you never cease to amaze me with your videos. thank you!
Depends on what you are making. For General fab/farm work, probably not, but for coded work, probably a good idea
I enjoy the Hobart H4R 7018, found them to be great rods and theres something about the flux that I find is almost a weld indicator. If prep was good and so was the weld, the flux is a nice light milky brown and comes off really easy, but if your weld prep was sub par or maybe you had too much arc length or too slow travel speed (they seem to prefer strings from my experience but I've done on site structural welding 100% visual and had no problems with weaves) good rods at a price cheaper than ESAB OK 55's ill take it, never ran a Lincoln 7018 but i imagine they'd handle just fine.
Jodie you are a fantastic teacher please keep it up thank you sir.
Like i said before, your the man. thanks for your time and helping all of us.
HI! there is lot of confersation to use to oven and stick heater. I got to say example europe welding stardat PED give your frames to to do welding jobs from a begining at to the end. you have to put rods to the oven and after that is possible use heaters in the job sites. you can avoid certain welding mistakes to use heated rods. what comes that melted sticks after it reach to the very end in here finland we use hand remote to addjust amperages keep arc voltage steady.
cool stuff. I'm actually using 7018 Excaliburs 3/32 for a current project.
Bravo!!!! Thanks for the incredible tutorial. Please keep them coming.
Thank you so much for this video. Demonetizing this video is highly appreciated. Respect for you sir...
These discussions about low-hydrogen rods always focus on oven vs. no oven, as though heat were the important factor. It isn't. The important thing is to keep all moisture, all water, out of the flux. Water contains hydrogen and can contaminate the weld.
Low hydrogen rods can be kept in any environment that will not allow hydrogen-containing substances, like water or hydrocarbons, to contaminate the flux. An oven is a sure-fire way to do that. If you keep the temperature well above the dew point, and preferably above the boiling point of water, no contamination occurs. But you can also store low-hydrogen rods in a dry nitrogen atmosphere, dry CO2, helium, argon, oxygen, or a vacuum. Whatever you like, as long as no hydrogen can penetrate into the flux.
These other methods are not as simple and sure-fire as an oven. It's good to keep things simple and foolproof. Ovens also provide easy access to the rods. Just open the door. An oven works as long as electricity doesn't fail for a long period of time. On the other hand, if you need to store these rods for really long periods of time, like months or years, it costs energy/money to keep an oven hot. Other methods like dry nitrogen cost nothing to maintain but you don't have easy access to the rods.
I would just like to say, bravo, i learn tons from your videos/channel, one of your subscribers here, thank you for posting/sharing.
7018 is a low hydrogen electrode. If you use them, normally u have like 8h of use before u have to bake them, if they come out vacuum. U cannot keep them in an oven on high temp, you will damage the coating. If they are not in a vac pack you have to bake them (+-572°F) for +-2 hours before use. You can also use this rule for electrodes out of a vac pack after more than 8 hours. For storage best check the temp and humidity. Store around 86° F and low humidity (for best result). Before use, bake them again, you can bake max 2 times. The big problem with the moister (if you do not bake) is hydrogen cracking, but this is normally not on thin metal and you will not see a difference is weld metal only in the arc itself. If you weld thicker metal, the hydrogen cannot diffuse anymore and than there is a chance on hydrogen cracking, but this is also not noticeable in the weld metal, except if it cracks obviously, but maybe that's a bit of topic.
When I was welding at the Forward Brothers mill in Red Bluff CA - Ben my boss said always keep them in the oven and dry
and then later in mostly dry country didn't seem to matter too much. I guess I will keep them in the oven just for grins and Ben
a friend just keep his 7018 in a closed plastic box on the top of a tall furniture in his house so it is a dry environment. a one hour stand in an hot oven the day before at night if he need to use them in the morning. he say that works for him that way.
Its amazing how many ways of doing things there are. I went to the steel store and just open in a box without any care was the LH rod and I asked they why and they said didn't matter to them. (HUH)
I ran some of that HF 7018 for fun, and talk about hard to remove slag! Sometimes you get what you pay for.
Parabéns. Professor. Pelas. As. Aulas. Seus. Vídeos. É. Muito. Bom. Obrigado
7018’s are low hydrogen rods, and you can only take advantage of that if you store them in a rod oven. Otherwise they are just a much better version of 6013
7018 is a low hydrogen rod however it doesn't need to be baked unless it is specified which is usually for military or structual codes. other than that it usually isn't too much a big deal unless specified
Thanks Jody! All the info is really appreciated.
I feel like they need to stay in an oven most because that's what's been drilled into my head in school lol but on another note Jody my girl friend got me your tig finger bundle for my birthday and it's amazing way better than trying to put a tig cup on your finger to free hand
Ok Jody!... now, how do I keep a finer grain on that second pass?
and as always- Thank you for all your hard work!
MKRBRKR turn down amps and do a slow pass?
MKRBRKR stringer beads all the way out instead of a weave cap.
I've pulled 7018 Stubbs out of a mud puddle and use them to attack my ground on to what I was welding and it's startling how strong it still is. I do not think you need to have your 7018 rod in an oven.
Hey Jody was just at your store and saw something called " Mig Knuckle" , not much info on it can you do a quick demo video on it please. Thanks
I'd like to see a test of how cold you have to run in order to get insufficient penetration. With stick, penetration is usually about as good as it gets, and between that and the vertical uphill, I bet it would still do fine even below 70 amps.
I prefer ESAB 7018 far and away over either Lincoln or Hobart , welded code for years and have run them all,, used to be Atom Arc, but ESAB bought them out... give it a whirl, you might like it.
I like Miller machines and Lincoln rods
Looks like all that buzzbox amperage control needs is to be tightened up, taking some of the slack out of it. Calibrate it with your meter and tighten up the adjustment mechanism, maybe adding some friction between the adjustment handle and the white indicator. Five minutes of work to bring the unit up to where you can rely on it.
7018 is LO H but will still weld fine if its not baked, you just run a higher risk of imperfections in the weld.
I have always felt the slag on the Hobart rods was hard to chip especially in side of a tight joint where it may be hard to chip it seems chalky and stiff
I have a small boiler room where I keep my rods all the time as the boiler runs 24-7 and the air is super dry. Seems to work.
Once 7018 rods have been left exposed to the atmosphere, can the hydrogen be driven off by baking them in an oven? If so, what kind of oven?
Very nice video as usual. What solution are you using to etch with now? You mentioned a while back going with something a bit "hotter", curious to know what that is.
thank you for another great video. Can you do maybe one on 309 stainless stick vertical and overhead on steel plates please.
Hi Jodi great videos been a fan of yours ever since you started the videos. An I was wondering if you could make a video on tig cups? like what the numbers mean when to use smaller cup sizes an when you should use those big ones?
Hey Jody can you film a video where you weld a different types of materials together? Or there is alreday video with this theme... Your videos are great, Iam going on engineering college and this helps me to see what is REAL welding. Greetings from Croatia! (Sorry for bad english)
Whats name the liquid that you use for reveal the penetration? Thanks.
TRUE! But, it really does depend on the application.
Jody,
Beads looked pretty decent to me for someone who claims not to stick weld much.
Haven't read your article yet, but I'll take a guess: FALSE, if the application doesn't require (e.g. code spec'd) a true low-hydrogen weld, then using "left in the open" 7018 is no worse than using 7014, 6013, etc... none of which are low-hydrogen rods. TRUE, if the application requires a true low-hydrogen weld. In short, for those of us doing general purpose, non-coded welding, an oven isn't needed.
nemodetroit nailed it
nemodetroit I remember in school the teacher said an old trick to somewhat "dry" out a 7018 is to get it suck and let it heat up for a second. I do wonder if that would make any real difference.
bojengels1 it does make them run a better if you warm them up. i've done it before in a pinch.
I work in a shipyard as a steel fitter/shipfitter/ hull fab (different names but same thing). Fitters use all Lincoln 7018 and the "weldors" come behind with .052 dual flux . Anyway... Since we work around water and have surprise rain storms, I've (don't judge me) stuck the completely wet rod and wait for it to stop steaming. Wiggle loose and wait a few seconds to cool a bit, and then fire back up. 15 years experience. I don't do this all the time but it actually works in a pinch with a perfect looking weld result. Also, just bought 25lbs of Hobart 7018's that were shot off the shelf. Lincoln rods all the way.
very very good instruction and video. thank you!
im going off the cuff here. low hydrogen rods need to be kept in the oven for 4 hours before use for code welding. then for every 6 hours left out they need to be put back in the oven?
The specifics depend on the code and humidity. The hydrogen comes from water absorbed from the air. For nuclear power plant critical they can be out of the oven for only 2 hours and then discarded, no reheating allowed. Oven temp is also a factor, with holding being a lower temp than the heating/refreshing temp. most code work will allow 4 hours out of the oven and mention the minimum reheat conditions.
My Sharoner I was explained that new rods can take 30 hours of 600 or 662 F which allows for about ten cookings. I did heard of 3 times only so it was good news. staying in the oven after cooking at a much lower temperature 176 -248F guarantees that no moisture will enter the graphite coating (which is the primary cause of that "cooking/drying"), so the rods are in a similar condition than just after first heating. Now only a few rods are out of the big oven at a time, then kept in the portative one. ( or pre dried rods are used from a closed bag , as 48.00 ESAB, they are good for 9 hours I think)
any customer may have its specific code then, it is their right to ask for.
wolfedog99 highly hygroscopic graphite coating. possibly absorbing more humidity than sillicate crystals, if not sillicate crystal pouches would be better considered than "better than nothing for conservation " that was answered to me when I asked.
I only have answers from one rod maker and consider myself lucky as this seem to be secret recipes. I think the general lines should be more available to public as not to cook 6010 or all position rods generally. better than degrade rods by mistake.
wolfedog99 also the large oven is at high temp only for the 3 to 3.5 hours needed then only a low temperature is kept inside. just enough to have no moisture inside hence about 212 F probably.
possibly also a hot/warm rod will attract moisture from the air more easily than if it is cold, This do not help the oven managment when outdoors, and cooking the night before then letting cool so the rods are cold next day, seem to me a good manner
HI JODY IM IN THE U.K IM DOING UP HILL MIG ON 8th INCH THICK STEEL WHAT WIRE FEED SPEED BECASUE IT KEEPS BUILDING UP MY FLAT WELDS ARE PERFECT THO
Just like most things welding, the answer for 7018 rod ovens is it depends. stickin a hay rake back together? sittin on a bucket, burning some rod in the yard? you gonna be just fine. doin a retrofit to an existing overpass on the interstate? man, keep them things warm.
Hy Jody. In the Video the ARc length looks to big vor an alkaline welding electrode. Answer of your Question: Follow the Pruducer Specifications. Its recommend to bake the elektrode in an Ofen. Greetings from Austria.
WeldDuck Do you think you can make a really shorter arc when rising in an angle without sticking ? it is interesting that you say that I was said the same and it could be for flat weld in the video, half the rod diameter for alkaline (we call them basic in french) and a full rod for 6013 ( and for 6010 may be because of the flux drop mode ?)
I am no professional welder just learning for my own purpose, but I am of the "curious" type ;) greetings from Paris.
I know it only from the welding Electrode Brand Called Böhler fox EV 50. Voestalpine Böhler WElding recommend the Arc length for this elctrode 0,5mm * Diameter of the Electrode (0,5*2,5= 1,25mm Arc Length.
what's the chemical for the etching process?
I must say that's quite the chincy handle lol. the Miller mig and stick welders (240v) i own both have cast aluminum handle assemblies with a bearing on the shaft you put your hand on. it must be over 30 years old, and that shit still feels like new.
On rods in an oven? I'll try to say this clearly - follow the welding procedure. If it calls for your 7018 rods to be heated and properly low hydrogen before welding, do it. If you're doing something on your own, probably not important - just be aware of the potential issues of hydrogen embrittlement and other problems. So ultimately, the answer is it depends - but 'follow the welding procedures' is the best answer.
Best cold open ever! :D
Great lesson
My thought is that the necessity of an oven depends on the application.
What do you use for etching?
Thanks for another great video
yes it is a low hydrogen rod it can help to keep in an oven but doesn't have to be
Hey Jody, I was wondering why you chose to use 3/32 rods instead of 1/8th considering the 1/4 plate. Thanks!
Jake Duea easier to run in the upper amperage range of the rod. A bit more controllable.
Sensational video!
Another good video!! Keep em coming
your my hero jodey
If you are on site without electrode oven, tap electrode onto live job without making an arch and watch the moistures come out of the electrode and you should be good to go, not suitable for power stations or sub building, but then these guys are welding to a much higher specifaction.
Ok so I have a noob type of question. Is it possible to weld with a Lincoln AC tombstone on auto exhaust, and if it's possible what electrode would be best for this application? My Lincoln is all I have to work with.
Phillip Bishop - possible? Maybe. what the issue is you're welding on thin wall materials with a hot process. combine that with welding around a small circumference pipe, and you have some of the most difficult welding one can attempt. I would advise coming some short sections of the pipe you intend to weld and trying it ( be aware of galvanized pipe and its dangers). You will want the smallest Rod you can find, and weld as low as you can amperage wise. give her a whirl and see what happens and that'll tell you whether it's possible for You to weld what you're asking.
thank you!
он профессор высокие квалификации сварка и арго дуговой.я тоже учится сварщик практические я это глухих
Great info great weld
we use esab rods at school and they dont run well.
May be asking a bit much here, but somebody out there must be able to scientifically measure the difference between a 7018 and 7014 weld, when both are stored at "atmospheric" conditions (not in an oven) and say whether the 7018 weld had more hydrogen entrapment/embrittlement than the 7014, and also do xray, destructive, bend testing of both samples. 7014 isn't allowed in welds where low-hy is req'd, but is a 7018 stored in non-oven/non-sealed conditions actually any worse? I'd be surprised if AWS hasn't already measured this somewhere...
my opinion I think 7018 should be kept in a rod oven if the weld is going to be X-rayed, other then that if you weld hot enough there should be no problems
I've used 6013 and 7018 not on any structure just building tool's I need to work on home job's witch of the is best I'm going to build 4 metal saw horses and just wanting to know witch would be better.
Leonard Gilbreath 7018 is better. but in your case it doesn't matter.
7018 is better. 70,000 psi tensile strength vs 60,000 psi
I often need to do vertical up laps on 4 mm, weaving burns off the edge and makes it look nasty, is there a technique for straight up no weave ?
Rufus Chucklebutty hi . try to look at the 2 regulations at the beginning of the video more than once and notice the difference with the 90 and 80 A. Now if you use an inverter with "arc control" it will add amps as you will be close to the edge so you can regulate that "arc force" to use 10% for instance, or zero, for up hill.
Rufus Chucklebutty DC + may help as well.
I am not professional but noticed how natural and easy it seem when rising with a gentle inverted smile, then you use a cold side to mount your weld on as alternatively there is a side that cools off.
True but not always necessary
Thank you
i was sleepy until i watched this video
Yes low-hydrogen rods should be kept in an oven or caddy at all times.
I want to get a course
welding
You have
Exactly how did you use a meter to check your exact amperage? That seems like a useful trick..
Gordon Reiher You need an DC/AC amp clamp meter and hook it to one of the cables to measure the actual amperage flowing thru the wire. It a good trick for an unreliable amp adjusment mechanism/potentiometer.
Thanks!
Gordon Reiher a DC amp should be enough and way cheaper, (Trotec , about 20 USD) but no AC reading then of course.
Isaac OLEG Well, I have an AC buzzbox, so I guess I'll have to wrangle an AC meter, right?
Gordon Reiher right ;) I just wanted to say that a DC amp is easy to get. AC models are expensive generally.
Too bad you can't get the old Hobart Brothers rod to compare with or compare Excalibur with std Lincoln 7018.
i want smaw open corner joint in falt position
True
9:49 - coarse!
I actually have my welding merit badge in boyscouts.
Off topic, but still worth a mention. I have noticed a new addition to your last few vids & I find it disappointing that you feel a need to begin your vids with a 'NOT SPONSORED' disclaimer. Week after week you share your gold mine of knowledge & experience with us. For arguments sake, let's say for free. There's guarantees people will buy from your shop (but I hope they do). So there's no guaranteed income or return... Yet the fact still remains these vids take time & money to produce.
IMHO a welder, or any tradesman for that matter, of your caliber deserves all the recognition he/she gets. IF companies were approaching you to show or use their products this is recognition of the highest order. They're basically saying your shit is that good we want you to fly the banner for our company. The only thing people should be saying is congratulations, you deserve it!
rant over! And thank you for your time and efforts Jody :)
69hytek I agree 100%. Thank you for the great videos Jody, sponsored or not, I believe you are a man of character, a sponsored video wouldn't contain anything but the truth.
TRUE
me parece genial tus videos pero debes poner videos en castellano tambien porque yo soy del PERU y me es complicado traducirlos haver si sacas los videos en ingles y el mismo video en castellano gracias y saludos
True. Must keep the H2O out of the 7018 rods. When you run an electrical current through H20 you get hydrogen and oxygen gas. 2-H2O=.2-H2+02. So for every 2 water molecules you get one oxygen molecule and 2 Hydrogen molecules, Both are bad for welds and commonly cause porosity at the start of 7018 welds.
Yes