@@Straiferdt01 It's pretty risky. I was trying something on my tablet inside and I fried the screen tape when tried to plug it in, because battery was plugged in.
Yup so true I fucked up my display backlight from the Mobo and I had messed up with the display connector with the battery plugged in.... This made me to replace practically all the laptop :(
I actually have had issues with this exact same laptop. I also put some high quality thermal pads in some spots on the heatpipes, and some on the top of the vrms to contact with the back panel, and now I can sustain a 60W load without throttling
When repairing a laptop, you should disconnect the PSU and the battery. And press power button for a few seconds, to discharge caps that still might be charged. The discharge even applies to desktops and servers. You dont wanna risk the hardware when i accidently touch a wrong component or trace.
Just an FYI, pressing the power button does not discharge the caps, that is a common misconception. A PSU, TV, Computer etc is not going to be discharged by pressing the power button. On an unrelated note, ask me why I had heart palpitations for eighteen months.
One time my old laptop stopped working, because I touched one of the ports with the wrong cable (Idk how that happened, it was in my 420 years). I thought it was a goner, but someone told me to discharge and it worked like a champ!
@@joannaatkins822 Then be thankfull that you pressed the power button. If everything is unplugged and when you press the power button everything lights up for a second it means that some storaged power was used and then left the only place power ir stored, the caps. Of course not all the power is gone but a big part of it is, most electronics require a minimum voltage to work so when the caps go under a threshold it stops providing power and keeps some amount of charge.
Aaaahh yes! Another classic case of design over functionality, a decent spec'ed laptop with a poor thermal solution. And guess who invented this trend, because im never gonna say?!! Oh and just out of curiosity...do u like APPLEs Dawid?
For the price of a $900 MacBook Air with an i3 and u can build a reasonably powerful laptop with like an i5 and a 1660 Ti but the only downside of that is it has all of the “gaming” gimmicks
I actually like this laptop because I don't really want my laptop constantly screaming all the time like my windows laptop with the same specs as this one does
Thanks, following your guidelines I was able to successfully clean the inside of my XPS 15 9570 and apply new cooling paste, laptop still works afterwards hehe. I had never opened up a laptop before, but it worked. The average temperature dropped by about 15 degrees I think. Fans are still quite active when working with video or audio, so I guess I'll buy a better cooling pad as well in order to drop the noise level further, but at least now I don't have to be afraid of my CPU burning to dust anymore. Also thanks to the community section for mentioning the battery disconnecting thing.
On a sidenote, I recommend to actually spread the thermal paste when doing this on the naked dies. On a desktop CPU, there is the heatspreader, so the usually recommended "pea-sized drop of paste" is fine. On these dies, there is no heatspreader and you might create hotspots on the chip if the paste does not cover all the eges when squishing it down with the cooler. Also, using slightly more paste than needed won't do harm. You'll start to see negative effects when you use ludicrous amounts.
I like to touch a magic marker to the TOP of connectors (or in the case of black ones - apply a tiny bit of tape or label printer material) to indicate the orientation.
Just did this on my Dell 9550 - It dropped my idle temps around 4-6c....and under load around the same! That's absolutely worth the time. The fans barely kick on anymore at idle - almost whisper quiet
A little handy hint..... bridge the gap between the fan to fin array, and the fin array to exhaust vent opening with electrical tape. You can gain 10% better efficiency from the fans. 👍 If you wanted to REALLY improve things, use liquid metal TIM but use PCH load balancing pads(square foam pads with the center cut-out for the naked die) or thermal pads cut to size. That'll stop seepage as you'll need to apply a little more than usual because of the molecular binding between copper and the LM.
I should get over my fears and tear open my six year old Lenovo G505S that overheats and crashes just by attempting a Windows Update. It's basically unusable at this point, so it's not like I have anything to lose, right?
I have to agree with other commenters, your videos are great to watch. They're not filled with ads, or water bottles (Linus, looking at you!) but your mannerisms alone (this is a compliment) and tech talk make us want to watch. 👍
Dell give the full service manual detailing exactly how to completely take apart all (most, there might be some missing occasionally although normally a mistake rather than on purpose) their laptops online. Just search for the model and look under documentation. It is simple as well, go to the section that you want to take it apart to/get to and it will list every section you need to go through in order to reach that point. Then just follow that order and the instructions for each.
This laptop is known to have the battery swell and explode. Keep an eye on yours. You can usually tell if the mouse trackpad doesn't click as well as it used to. Mine had 3 of the cells swell up.
I repasted my laptop from 2009 and the paste was so hard I had to let it soak in the alcohol for about 10 mins to be able to scrape it off with a plastic pry tool. It came off of the die easily but refused to let go of the heatsink. The fin stack was completely clogged with pet hair.
Aside from unplugging the battery, I would also suggest marking any connectors with a felt tip pen when you take them out so you know which way they go back in.
I have the exact same laptop. Try deactivating turbo boost in the bios. It changed my life. Previously it was consistently around 90° under light load, now it stays below 70° for the same kind of work. And it feels much more snappier. Turbo boost is just useless for a laptop that can't cool itself properly, and it impacts performance and durability.
If you think those fan connectors were a pain, try the thin ribbon cables under the keyboard, or even worse, the stupid snaps on the antenna leads and WLAN card.
For future reference, I recommend unplugging the battery when doing any work inside the laptop. On the CPU and GPU cores I suggest applying Honeywell PTM7950 phase-change material, and instead of thermal pads give thermal putty Upsiren UX Pro Ultra and finally on the CPU and GPU do undervolting at -100mV or more if it will be stable, disable or reduce the frequency of the CPU in turbo boost, because for most games high clocking is unnecessary. It will be more fps, quieter, cooler and less power will be drawn from the wall socket.
@@Tempest_820 Lol. I wrote it as one of the first comments mate. Clicked on the seconds after it was published and commented immediately. Didn't copy anything.
Dell XPS Studio Laptops are one of the biggest tech failures that exist. Heat problems? AGAIN? No wonder. I had one in 2014 and it was shit. Just like the support of Dell that tries to sell you finance, security that you don't need.
I've had a few dell gaming laptops now and at this point its rule of thumb to buy new paste with the computer and immediatley change it because the stock dell paste is garbage, I usually see a 10-15 degree decrease from just doing that alone
Reminds me when I repasted my 1070, after only 4 years it was extremely dry. result on a manual fan curve: 7 degrees lower, and obviously slower fan speed. thanks for your videos full of humour and interesting tech and reviews.
Thanks for the vid. I'll be doing this soon, once I get my new battery I'll do both as once. Mine has "stock 5 year old Dell thermal paste" in it... The only reason I've not been forced to do this earlier is that I built a desktop which I'm using 90% of the time.
Not on a laptop, but I just repasted my RTX 2060 Super, and the temperatures dropped like 10C at idle, but still maxes out the 88C Limit :( - damn you Gigabyte with your sub-par cooler...
Computers weren't always as forgiving when it came to inserting and installing things. It was quite common for devices to go up in smoke and even flames. Some of the components I recall being able to be placed backward quite easily were AT power supply cables that went to the motherboard as well as the AT power switch that went on the case and needed wiring. There were memory chips for video cards that could quite easily go in backward, and often CPUs didn't have a protective heat spreader, which left the fragile die very vulnerable to cracking. Then there was the AMD Athlon debacle where if your heatsink became loose, your CPU would burn up in a matter of seconds. IDE and floppy cables could also go backward or on the wrong end, and the floppy power connectors often burned up when inserted upside down.
From experience that's totally right. My XPS 15 frequently has power limit throttling. CPU and GPU temps aren't so high. I undervolted and plan to replace the heat sink.
I reposted a few things during covid. A 13 year old dell studio xps 1640 that never over heated which was amazing. Second was my old gaming 14 year old gaming pc with a Athlon 4800+ and a 9500gt. I was amazed the graphics card paste looked brand new, I've never changed it before was genuinely shocked to the point I almost just stuck it back together to see how long it would last.
Fantastic video Dawid. Please do more informative videos like these! The fun videos are fun, but you need to do more serious videos like this once in a while too.
"Not a gaming laptop" And here I am on a 3 year old i5-7300HQ with GTX 1050 (mobile) trundling along happy in various games, that I know run comfortably on it. Heck even Far Cry 5 is fine. That it's 720p medium is another thing, but if I want to paly it on 1080p ultra, I have a desktop for that, when I am on my off week. (Yes, I work 140 miles away from where I live)
I think that Dells are designed to thermal throttle. It's a power saving feature! 5:50 Wow, that's a puny heatsink. I guess that's the price to pay for having a thin and light form factor.
My old ThinkPad T550 boots and then usually doesn’t let the CPU go beyond 36% utilisation (i5 5200u). Nothing has helped so far. New Bios, fresh Windows, new energy saving plan blabla... Thanks for giving me the inspiration to simply repaste it. How hard can it be? I love the niche you found and develop here on your channel. Keep up the good work!
I did a repaste on my XPS 9560 and dropped over 10 degrees C at max. I think it was about 15 degrees. When you re-screw the cooling pipes, they are numbered. Tighten them numerically.
I had an exact one of those and I was going to open it to do the same thing but managed to completely destroy the screw heads of the two under the flappy thing. Luckily my brother is good with a power drill.
I am a PC technician and repasting the CPU is the only thing I am not good at. One of my desktop computers began overheating after I replaced the power supply, because I had to remove the heat sink from the CPU. After repasting the CPU several times, it still continued to overheat. I gave up, but I will go back to it at some point and time.
I have the same laptop. Ive repasted, bent the hold downs so that theres more pressure, made a "duct" with electrical tape and even disabled turbo. I still get to 85 C. Im probably going to be building a proper desktop. I just dont worry about thermals anymore. I give up. this laptop was designed so bad with thermals. Im an engineering student taking a heat transfer class right now and the current subject is FINS. Having just learned how to do the math on fins, Im certain the math done was either poor, or the marketing team forced the engineers to make these decisions sadly....
Dawid, I was installing a new fan in my father's laptop last night and I had the same issue at first. It's hard to tell which way it's supposed to go in, but the main thing is that it shouldn't need much force when plugging it in correctly. That was after me needing to solder a fan wire together because it got moved in front of a screw hole when putting things back together, snipping the wire and shorting to the case.
Planned to do this to an 8 year old Fujitsu ultrabook, but couldn't for the life of me figure out how to open it up. No thermal throttling, but a really loud CPU fan at almost any load that I am sure is covered in dust and human particles.
Nice just FYI, the threads on the heatsink are usually numbered. If you put the screws in and tighten them in the order of the numbers then the thermal paste is spreading evenly in all directions instead of being pushed too much in one direction when you tighten the wrong screw first. Also it looks like you didnt put any adheasive tape over the gap between the fans and the heatsink fin arrays, my laptop has tape there to close the gap and force all the air through the actual fin array instead of having a huge amount of air leaking away without contributing anything to the cooling - espeically once there is dust blocking the fins you will have more and more air leaking infront of the fins if there is no tape forcing the air through the array. Edit: Your final test cnfirms that you could do a better job, your laptop is still getting very hot, up to 90C°, The heat sink of your laptop is very thin and the cooling fin array as well, so you can try to be more efficient by applying the tape i mentioned, my laptop doesnt get above 80C° - up to 80 to 85 dgrees is considered save.
Hey Dawid quick pro-tip. Use some sort of video recording apparatus to film the disassembly process. That'll allow you to rewind, and review your steps should you get distracted by unicorns, or whatever... Pro-tips aside, I'd like to thank you for yet another pointless video! I was glued to the edge of my seat the entire time!
Dell thermal paste is like someone took the gum out of a pack of baseball cards from 1985, added a little water and then spread it liberally all over the contact plates, except where it needs to make contact with the CPU and GPU. I had to use a plastic paint scraper to clean it off when I fixed my work laptop. Apple and HP are no better, in my experience. The best thing you can do for your laptop is to change the thermal paste and/or pads right out of the gate.
I got a 15-year-old Dell laptop I loan you that has never overheated and never been repasted but I have replaced the plug on it several times. I even have an old compact from Circuit City.
It was easy with this model, i have Dell N5110 - this is adventure to clean and repaste cooling solution - you have to full dissasembly laptop to do this :) Even to replace SSD/HDD.
You just gotta get used to it. I took my first laptop apart about 23 years ago to install a video card for a secondary video output. That was a Mac. Can you imagine? A Mac laptop with a free *internal* slot for expansion in addition to the then-standard PC card slot for other expansion. Mind blown.
I am living in a tropical country with no air conditioned room. My i5-4200U stays usually at 65-75C during normal operation, 50C on idle, while on gaming it can reach 90++ C. And it's been like 5-6 years now and no signs of throttling. As long as it is performing normal and not throttling I keep myself from spending spree on aftermarket coolers.
Single core will struggle in pretty much everything. But i wonder how bad it would be to use high end cpus like core i9 and ryzen 9 and leave things like boost or smt enabled and also give it fast ram, but leave only two cores. Like dual core 4 thread but really high end CPU.
Try Conductonaut. I have a "gaming" laptop from Dell that would throttle pretty much instantly when brand-new. Some conductomaut allows for better performance and lower thermals. That stuff is tricky to apply, but works wonders.
I actually have the model right before this one, the XPS 15 9550. It's the same thing just a generation earlier (i7-6700hq / GTX 960M). It was a great laptop in 2016 but has started to physically fall apart these days. The biggest thing was when I went to repaste the CPU/GPU, the actual rivets holding the backplate that the heatsink gets screwed into had actually cracked and fallen off the motherboard, making it impossible to put the heatsink back on properly. I had to solder the thing back on to the motherboard really jankily to get it to work. The SD card reader has also stopped working and the backlight has become quite finicky. Also sucks they don't do replacement batteries for these laptops anymore :( Oh also, if you have the time/energy. doing a liquid metal repaste on this thing helps temperatures _immensely_ . Just make sure to epoxy over the substrate capacitors on the CPU/GPU first to prevent any potential shorts.
I replaced my brand new msi prestige's (1185G7) thermal compound with mx-4. With stock I got around 1000 cb in CB15 in the first run, and 870 in the next ones topping of at 41W ( I don't care too much about clocks), always at 9999999 inferno temperatures as soon as I hit the run button. In 15W mode, it took around 10 seconds to hit PL1'S 12W. After repaste, I hit 1080cb, keeping 50W for the longest time (3 runs) and throttling to 42W briefly and hit again 50. I also observed more thermal mass as it took longer to hit 90's, but never 9999999999. But curiously, now in 15W mode it no longer triggers PL1. What an improvement!! I also noticed that surface temperatures feel colder under load. As for GPU, I didn't take measurements beforehand, just remember run on low 80s while gaming. Now in long testing, 70 degrees is the max. Obviously the system runs quieter. So, to say the least, OEMS's pastes are 🦌💩. Mine had a very nice application, with only the GPU got a bit spilled out (that Dell though OMGosh) But remember, this is a brand new device with fresh compound, which would've worsen overtime,and there is room for improvement with higher quality paste or liquid metal which I won't use. Recommended?? Well... I voided my warranty unfortunately, but I yoloed it because I knew what I was doing. I was going to install a second drive anyway. So if you are an intensive user, want the device to last and know what you're doing, absolutely YES. For the average user, I'd recommend let an expert do it for you or wait for warranty to expire. (now praying to not have any failures)
Being a repair tech for many years, this was hard to watch with the battery still plugged into the main board
That should've been his priority after taking the back off, I shorted my old laptop because a screw fell on the mainboard and it fried everything.
But this is a true real world DIY fix. We know in reality most people never unplug the damn thing. Lol!
Damnit. You weren't lying.
@@Straiferdt01 It's pretty risky. I was trying something on my tablet inside and I fried the screen tape when tried to plug it in, because battery was plugged in.
Thank you for pointing that out. I will be sure to not do that again in future.
I would disconnect that battery before poking around.
Yeah, might disturb the "Rest Parts"
It's not first time when he "does Tech Stuff" with plugged battery. Last time with Ryzen CPU he even insert memory with battery...
Thanks! I'll keep that in mind for the next time I do something like this.
Lol, the whole way through the vid I was like "Dude, the battery...Dude, the battery"...
Yup so true I fucked up my display backlight from the Mobo and I had messed up with the display connector with the battery plugged in....
This made me to replace practically all the laptop :(
After all that struggling and complaining he says: "That was such an easy fix!"
Haha Dawid just likes complaining 🤣😋 jk jk
Hahaha!! Yeah Anna is right.
Im also swearing a lot while gaming, but enjoying it anyway!
Sarcastic
I actually have had issues with this exact same laptop. I also put some high quality thermal pads in some spots on the heatpipes, and some on the top of the vrms to contact with the back panel, and now I can sustain a 60W load without throttling
Yeah! Just a small fix like that can make a huge difference.
Old dapz comment
how many millimeters is the thermal pad from memory
@@carlosvargas4905 I don’t remember
Ok, thanks you
When repairing a laptop, you should disconnect the PSU and the battery. And press power button for a few seconds, to discharge caps that still might be charged. The discharge even applies to desktops and servers. You dont wanna risk the hardware when i accidently touch a wrong component or trace.
Just an FYI, pressing the power button does not discharge the caps, that is a common misconception. A PSU, TV, Computer etc is not going to be discharged by pressing the power button.
On an unrelated note, ask me why I had heart palpitations for eighteen months.
Cool👍
One time my old laptop stopped working, because I touched one of the ports with the wrong cable (Idk how that happened, it was in my 420 years). I thought it was a goner, but someone told me to discharge and it worked like a champ!
Yeah a bunch of people mentioned that. Thanks I'll be sure to do that in future. 👍
@@joannaatkins822 Then be thankfull that you pressed the power button. If everything is unplugged and when you press the power button everything lights up for a second it means that some storaged power was used and then left the only place power ir stored, the caps. Of course not all the power is gone but a big part of it is, most electronics require a minimum voltage to work so when the caps go under a threshold it stops providing power and keeps some amount of charge.
Aaaahh yes! Another classic case of design over functionality, a decent spec'ed laptop with a poor thermal solution. And guess who invented this trend, because im never gonna say?!! Oh and just out of curiosity...do u like APPLEs Dawid?
For the price of a $900 MacBook Air with an i3 and u can build a reasonably powerful laptop with like an i5 and a 1660 Ti but the only downside of that is it has all of the “gaming” gimmicks
@@CoolDoritoz77 You could do much better than a 1660ti. Maybe a 2060 or the rx 5700xt
Hahaha!! Yeah it is definitely the Apple trend.
@@Hijynx87 if u can snag a gud deal, yes its more than possible to get that kind of deal
I actually like this laptop because I don't really want my laptop constantly screaming all the time like my windows laptop with the same specs as this one does
Just repasted my core i3-6100 with stock cooler for the first time! Went from 75C+ to 53-58C full load :)
Oh wow!! That's awesome.
@@DawidDoesTechStuff Yeah! It's a pretty nice not having to worry about your CPU exploding hehe
@@cytro I used to use a pice of tinfoil to Cool am i3 9100 and it would play games like minecraft servers at over 100fps still
Hey Dawid! Love your content. Keep up the good work!
Thank you very much Ben! 😁
Thanks, following your guidelines I was able to successfully clean the inside of my XPS 15 9570 and apply new cooling paste, laptop still works afterwards hehe. I had never opened up a laptop before, but it worked. The average temperature dropped by about 15 degrees I think. Fans are still quite active when working with video or audio, so I guess I'll buy a better cooling pad as well in order to drop the noise level further, but at least now I don't have to be afraid of my CPU burning to dust anymore.
Also thanks to the community section for mentioning the battery disconnecting thing.
I've been on the fence about subscribing to you, and you literally won me over with the OzTalks shout out. Well played!
Dawid: restricting upgrades like some other ones...
Me: Cough... Cough ... apple
Haha!! Exactly.
@Gaming York no lmao
@@khoado2060 what about 2 years ago? Wasn't that the age of contactless cooling?
@Gaming York company Apple bad, fruit apple good
@Gaming York is this a joke?
This just goes to prove you don't need crazy, over the top content to be entertaining
Sometimes just doing a thing is enough
I'm glad you think it's enough. I enjoyed making the video.
Tell that to linus
On a sidenote, I recommend to actually spread the thermal paste when doing this on the naked dies.
On a desktop CPU, there is the heatspreader, so the usually recommended "pea-sized drop of paste" is fine. On these dies, there is no heatspreader and you might create hotspots on the chip if the paste does not cover all the eges when squishing it down with the cooler.
Also, using slightly more paste than needed won't do harm. You'll start to see negative effects when you use ludicrous amounts.
There’s no need, he did it perfectly.
I like to touch a magic marker to the TOP of connectors (or in the case of black ones - apply a tiny bit of tape or label printer material) to indicate the orientation.
Just did this on my Dell 9550 - It dropped my idle temps around 4-6c....and under load around the same! That's absolutely worth the time. The fans barely kick on anymore at idle - almost whisper quiet
A little handy hint.....
bridge the gap between the fan to fin array, and the fin array to exhaust vent opening with electrical tape.
You can gain 10% better efficiency from the fans. 👍
If you wanted to REALLY improve things, use liquid metal TIM but use PCH load balancing pads(square foam pads with the center cut-out for the naked die) or thermal pads cut to size. That'll stop seepage as you'll need to apply a little more than usual because of the molecular binding between copper and the LM.
Nursing a drug addiction with out its family members knowing. This is why you have the best tech channel my friend.
I should get over my fears and tear open my six year old Lenovo G505S that overheats and crashes just by attempting a Windows Update. It's basically unusable at this point, so it's not like I have anything to lose, right?
ya
Use windows update assistant
I had same issues
I'm gonna buy thermal paste
I have to agree with other commenters, your videos are great to watch. They're not filled with ads, or water bottles (Linus, looking at you!) but your mannerisms alone (this is a compliment) and tech talk make us want to watch. 👍
Dell give the full service manual detailing exactly how to completely take apart all (most, there might be some missing occasionally although normally a mistake rather than on purpose) their laptops online. Just search for the model and look under documentation.
It is simple as well, go to the section that you want to take it apart to/get to and it will list every section you need to go through in order to reach that point. Then just follow that order and the instructions for each.
This laptop is known to have the battery swell and explode. Keep an eye on yours. You can usually tell if the mouse trackpad doesn't click as well as it used to.
Mine had 3 of the cells swell up.
Same issue with my battery. Heat disposal in this notebook is lacking, but totally expected given it's form factor.
lmao i got a 6 year old laptop i wonder how dry the thermal paste is
@@flip5951 I just repasted my 2013 ThinkPad. It turned to dust when i scraped it off xD
I have a 2012 laptop. I don't even want to know what the thermal paste will look like.
@@notnerd3 Hmm.. it just dries.
I repasted my laptop from 2009 and the paste was so hard I had to let it soak in the alcohol for about 10 mins to be able to scrape it off with a plastic pry tool. It came off of the die easily but refused to let go of the heatsink. The fin stack was completely clogged with pet hair.
same but than 11 years for me haha
why did this video not pop up in my subscription box but instead in my recommended...
Aside from unplugging the battery, I would also suggest marking any connectors with a felt tip pen when you take them out so you know which way they go back in.
That’s such a good idea!
I have the exact same laptop. Try deactivating turbo boost in the bios. It changed my life. Previously it was consistently around 90° under light load, now it stays below 70° for the same kind of work. And it feels much more snappier. Turbo boost is just useless for a laptop that can't cool itself properly, and it impacts performance and durability.
YMMV. Disabling my turbo dropped fps in gaming by about 30 fps. Undervolting helped a bit however in average temps. Still spike to 90+ C tho.
I like that you didn't disconnect the battery. Always do this when working inside a laptop (same as disconnecting/turning off the PSU on desktop)
If you think those fan connectors were a pain, try the thin ribbon cables under the keyboard, or even worse, the stupid snaps on the antenna leads and WLAN card.
Love these re-pasting/cleaning videos especially when its a similar model to what I own. I could have watched this all day 😊
For future reference, I recommend unplugging the battery when doing any work inside the laptop.
On the CPU and GPU cores I suggest applying Honeywell PTM7950 phase-change material, and instead of thermal pads give thermal putty Upsiren UX Pro Ultra and finally on the CPU and GPU do undervolting at -100mV or more if it will be stable, disable or reduce the frequency of the CPU in turbo boost, because for most games high clocking is unnecessary. It will be more fps, quieter, cooler and less power will be drawn from the wall socket.
Hey I'm new to this disassembling but is anti static gloves needed for this? I saw my technician do laptop servicing with his bare hands
Uh! New Dawid vid! Weekend saved!
Why are you copying other comments
@@Tempest_820 Lol. I wrote it as one of the first comments mate. Clicked on the seconds after it was published and commented immediately. Didn't copy anything.
Other person comment ed that exact same 8 minutes before you
Oh sorry i said it to wrong one on axident it is other way around i ment to say that to ultimate xlr-8, sorry
@@Tempest_820 No worries mate. No harm done. Just found it odd. :) Stay safe.
I like how amazed you are with the condition of the two year old laptop. One can only imagine what lies beneath the case of my 2013 MacBook Air. 😂
I changed the battery recently on my mid-2011 Macbook Air. That was a experience...
Makes me realize I know what my laptop’s problem was all along
Dell XPS Studio Laptops are one of the biggest tech failures that exist. Heat problems? AGAIN? No wonder. I had one in 2014 and it was shit. Just like the support of Dell that tries to sell you finance, security that you don't need.
I've had a few dell gaming laptops now and at this point its rule of thumb to buy new paste with the computer and immediatley change it because the stock dell paste is garbage, I usually see a 10-15 degree decrease from just doing that alone
I always like the TH-cam --> Dawid has uploaded a video - notification.
This is so funny, you uploaded this video just as i was working on my dads laptop's paste 🤣. Love the content Dawid
I had liquid metal and 0.120v undervolt on my XPS 15, it made it amazing compared to stock.
Reminds me when I repasted my 1070, after only 4 years it was extremely dry. result on a manual fan curve: 7 degrees lower, and obviously slower fan speed.
thanks for your videos full of humour and interesting tech and reviews.
Thanks for the vid. I'll be doing this soon, once I get my new battery I'll do both as once. Mine has "stock 5 year old Dell thermal paste" in it... The only reason I've not been forced to do this earlier is that I built a desktop which I'm using 90% of the time.
Not on a laptop, but I just repasted my RTX 2060 Super, and the temperatures dropped like 10C at idle, but still maxes out the 88C Limit :( - damn you Gigabyte with your sub-par cooler...
that struggle trying to reconnect the fan wires back in is just insanely relatable
Computers weren't always as forgiving when it came to inserting and installing things. It was quite common for devices to go up in smoke and even flames. Some of the components I recall being able to be placed backward quite easily were AT power supply cables that went to the motherboard as well as the AT power switch that went on the case and needed wiring. There were memory chips for video cards that could quite easily go in backward, and often CPUs didn't have a protective heat spreader, which left the fragile die very vulnerable to cracking. Then there was the AMD Athlon debacle where if your heatsink became loose, your CPU would burn up in a matter of seconds. IDE and floppy cables could also go backward or on the wrong end, and the floppy power connectors often burned up when inserted upside down.
From what I have read its the VRMs that are crippling the CPU more than the paste.
From experience that's totally right. My XPS 15 frequently has power limit throttling. CPU and GPU temps aren't so high. I undervolted and plan to replace the heat sink.
Nice chill video. Thanks Dawid, you're one of my favorite tech youtubers.
Metal tweezers with battery connected. That's pure genius.
I reposted a few things during covid.
A 13 year old dell studio xps 1640 that never over heated which was amazing.
Second was my old gaming 14 year old gaming pc with a Athlon 4800+ and a 9500gt. I was amazed the graphics card paste looked brand new, I've never changed it before was genuinely shocked to the point I almost just stuck it back together to see how long it would last.
Overheating laptops are the norm, always repast it directly! GC extreme very good paste
I don't know why I watched this. As a Dell field service tech I repair this exact model of laptop many times a month.
Fantastic video Dawid. Please do more informative videos like these! The fun videos are fun, but you need to do more serious videos like this once in a while too.
arm macs coming in novmeber wanna see how well it performs
Same
"Not a gaming laptop"
And here I am on a 3 year old i5-7300HQ with GTX 1050 (mobile) trundling along happy in various games, that I know run comfortably on it.
Heck even Far Cry 5 is fine.
That it's 720p medium is another thing, but if I want to paly it on 1080p ultra, I have a desktop for that, when I am on my off week. (Yes, I work 140 miles away from where I live)
I have the exact specs with my laptop. Is that a clevo unit ?
@@buraksarsaltk6654 Asus Fx553VD.
Upgraded RAM and bootdrive
I think that Dells are designed to thermal throttle. It's a power saving feature!
5:50 Wow, that's a puny heatsink. I guess that's the price to pay for having a thin and light form factor.
Also, to note that the coolers are super easy to bend by accident, then you're screwed lol
I should probably re-paste my main rig... A CPU running at 5GHz gets a bit spicy sometimes.
My old ThinkPad T550 boots and then usually doesn’t let the CPU go beyond 36% utilisation (i5 5200u). Nothing has helped so far. New Bios, fresh Windows, new energy saving plan blabla... Thanks for giving me the inspiration to simply repaste it. How hard can it be?
I love the niche you found and develop here on your channel. Keep up the good work!
don't use the energy saving plan
use high performance
that'll keep the cpu at max core frequency.
I did a repaste on my XPS 9560 and dropped over 10 degrees C at max. I think it was about 15 degrees.
When you re-screw the cooling pipes, they are numbered. Tighten them numerically.
I LOVE your channel! The humor and tech insights is great!!
Dawid you are 10 times better than LTT
I like simple, sincere content like this.
I had an exact one of those and I was going to open it to do the same thing but managed to completely destroy the screw heads of the two under the flappy thing. Luckily my brother is good with a power drill.
Under-volting the CPU with a program like ThrottleStop can do wonders for Intel processors.
Impossible in 10 gen and onwards, Intel completely blocked that.
I am a PC technician and repasting the CPU is the only thing I am not good at. One of my desktop computers began overheating after I replaced the power supply, because I had to remove the heat sink from the CPU. After repasting the CPU several times, it still continued to overheat. I gave up, but I will go back to it at some point and time.
I have the same laptop. Ive repasted, bent the hold downs so that theres more pressure, made a "duct" with electrical tape and even disabled turbo. I still get to 85 C. Im probably going to be building a proper desktop. I just dont worry about thermals anymore. I give up. this laptop was designed so bad with thermals. Im an engineering student taking a heat transfer class right now and the current subject is FINS. Having just learned how to do the math on fins, Im certain the math done was either poor, or the marketing team forced the engineers to make these decisions sadly....
Poking metal tweezers in the computer with the battery still plugged in..nice!
Dawid, I was installing a new fan in my father's laptop last night and I had the same issue at first. It's hard to tell which way it's supposed to go in, but the main thing is that it shouldn't need much force when plugging it in correctly. That was after me needing to solder a fan wire together because it got moved in front of a screw hole when putting things back together, snipping the wire and shorting to the case.
Planned to do this to an 8 year old Fujitsu ultrabook, but couldn't for the life of me figure out how to open it up. No thermal throttling, but a really loud CPU fan at almost any load that I am sure is covered in dust and human particles.
I put thermal grizzly kryonaut in my gaming laptop today and the temps are so good now (75c on cpu and 60-65c on gpu) under full load
You think that overheats? I have a laptop with a 1080 in it. That was a mistake.
He uses such great analogies
Hai should we need to fully tighten the screws after putting thermal paste or tightening enough would be fine.
It really should have a better cooler. 90c is still pretty hot and that's with good quality thermal paste.
Legends say he is still fixing
Nice just FYI, the threads on the heatsink are usually numbered. If you put the screws in and tighten them in the order of the numbers then the thermal paste is spreading evenly in all directions instead of being pushed too much in one direction when you tighten the wrong screw first.
Also it looks like you didnt put any adheasive tape over the gap between the fans and the heatsink fin arrays, my laptop has tape there to close the gap and force all the air through the actual fin array instead of having a huge amount of air leaking away without contributing anything to the cooling - espeically once there is dust blocking the fins you will have more and more air leaking infront of the fins if there is no tape forcing the air through the array.
Edit: Your final test cnfirms that you could do a better job, your laptop is still getting very hot, up to 90C°, The heat sink of your laptop is very thin and the cooling fin array as well, so you can try to be more efficient by applying the tape i mentioned, my laptop doesnt get above 80C° - up to 80 to 85 dgrees is considered save.
Hey Dawid quick pro-tip. Use some sort of video recording apparatus to film the disassembly process. That'll allow you to rewind, and review your steps should you get distracted by unicorns, or whatever...
Pro-tips aside, I'd like to thank you for yet another pointless video! I was glued to the edge of my seat the entire time!
Found your channel from the UK guy on RandomGamingInHD.
This laptop case actually has better ventilation than my Asus Vivobook
"its just refusing to go in" story of my life working on laptops every day of my life at a computer shop.
Dawid which cpu is in the intro I can never find out which one it is
Dell thermal paste is like someone took the gum out of a pack of baseball cards from 1985, added a little water and then spread it liberally all over the contact plates, except where it needs to make contact with the CPU and GPU. I had to use a plastic paint scraper to clean it off when I fixed my work laptop. Apple and HP are no better, in my experience. The best thing you can do for your laptop is to change the thermal paste and/or pads right out of the gate.
Topps!
I’ve got this exact configuration but with the 1080p screen. You’d be surprised how well it runs games at medium settings
I got a 15-year-old Dell laptop I loan you that has never overheated and never been repasted but I have replaced the plug on it several times. I even have an old compact from Circuit City.
Can it run crysis?!
@@renegade_patriot No!
It was easy with this model, i have Dell N5110 - this is adventure to clean and repaste cooling solution - you have to full dissasembly laptop to do this :) Even to replace SSD/HDD.
Laptops frustrate me when taking them apart
Laptops frustrate me in general.
I'm a desktop pc full tower guy.
You just gotta get used to it. I took my first laptop apart about 23 years ago to install a video card for a secondary video output. That was a Mac. Can you imagine? A Mac laptop with a free *internal* slot for expansion in addition to the then-standard PC card slot for other expansion. Mind blown.
Older laptops were easy to work on because you can just open a panel and swap out a component.
@@lewzealand4717 yeah but now laptops usually get made as compact as possible so it abut annoying stripping down 7 of the same one in one day
install the dell software for power management and then put the thermal management onto high performance mode, the fans kick in more aggressively
DAWID, You are supposed to seat the fan connector before you fit the fan.......... :)
Don't forget to undeervolt
" ... like a Spring breeze into a ... ... tunnel full of angels". You're just making this up, aren't you? 🤣🤣🤣🤣
Really liked the video....will try it on my laptop which is getting quite hot.
I am living in a tropical country with no air conditioned room. My i5-4200U stays usually at 65-75C during normal operation, 50C on idle, while on gaming it can reach 90++ C. And it's been like 5-6 years now and no signs of throttling. As long as it is performing normal and not throttling I keep myself from spending spree on aftermarket coolers.
I have this exact laptop actually thats cool! just replaced it though but it served me well for almost 4 years
Do you have to remove the fans? Will the heatsink wiggle free with the fans still in place?
Single core will struggle in pretty much everything. But i wonder how bad it would be to use high end cpus like core i9 and ryzen 9 and leave things like boost or smt enabled and also give it fast ram, but leave only two cores. Like dual core 4 thread but really high end CPU.
Try Conductonaut. I have a "gaming" laptop from Dell that would throttle pretty much instantly when brand-new. Some conductomaut allows for better performance and lower thermals. That stuff is tricky to apply, but works wonders.
-Hey, the fan's not that bad!
*coughs up the Sahara desert*
*thumbs up*
Damn, I was gonna do this on the weekend and couldn't find one single good video...
I actually have the model right before this one, the XPS 15 9550. It's the same thing just a generation earlier (i7-6700hq / GTX 960M). It was a great laptop in 2016 but has started to physically fall apart these days. The biggest thing was when I went to repaste the CPU/GPU, the actual rivets holding the backplate that the heatsink gets screwed into had actually cracked and fallen off the motherboard, making it impossible to put the heatsink back on properly. I had to solder the thing back on to the motherboard really jankily to get it to work. The SD card reader has also stopped working and the backlight has become quite finicky. Also sucks they don't do replacement batteries for these laptops anymore :(
Oh also, if you have the time/energy. doing a liquid metal repaste on this thing helps temperatures _immensely_ . Just make sure to epoxy over the substrate capacitors on the CPU/GPU first to prevent any potential shorts.
That's about as much dust as i get in a month, and he got it in 2 years
I replaced my brand new msi prestige's (1185G7) thermal compound with mx-4. With stock I got around 1000 cb in CB15 in the first run, and 870 in the next ones topping of at 41W ( I don't care too much about clocks), always at 9999999 inferno temperatures as soon as I hit the run button. In 15W mode, it took around 10 seconds to hit PL1'S 12W.
After repaste, I hit 1080cb, keeping 50W for the longest time (3 runs) and throttling to 42W briefly and hit again 50. I also observed more thermal mass as it took longer to hit 90's, but never 9999999999. But curiously, now in 15W mode it no longer triggers PL1. What an improvement!! I also noticed that surface temperatures feel colder under load. As for GPU, I didn't take measurements beforehand, just remember run on low 80s while gaming. Now in long testing, 70 degrees is the max. Obviously the system runs quieter.
So, to say the least, OEMS's pastes are 🦌💩. Mine had a very nice application, with only the GPU got a bit spilled out (that Dell though OMGosh) But remember, this is a brand new device with fresh compound, which would've worsen overtime,and there is room for improvement with higher quality paste or liquid metal which I won't use. Recommended?? Well... I voided my warranty unfortunately, but I yoloed it because I knew what I was doing. I was going to install a second drive anyway. So if you are an intensive user, want the device to last and know what you're doing, absolutely YES. For the average user, I'd recommend let an expert do it for you or wait for warranty to expire.
(now praying to not have any failures)
Is that a cork topped work surface?
I came for the tech tips, but subscribed for the metaphors.
Small correction, Torx screw not hex. Thanks for the entertaining video.
As far as i experienced, the process of downloading windows updates is what brings the CPU to its hottest state.