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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 5 ก.ย. 2024
- This video is a complete tutorial on how to do Christmas Lights to music using the Falcon F48 RGB Pixel controller and Falcon differential receivers. This tutorial was produced for the total beginner (I wish this tutorial existed when I started doing my Christmas lights to music project). This tutorial also focuses on the use of 5V pixels only.
I have a website that includes build instructions and parts links for all of the components used in this tutorial. Check it out at....
www.christmaslightingwithsteve.com
The site is not done yet, but I wanted to get it out before Christmas got too close. So I apologize in advance for any in-completions or errors you might find.
Topics included in this video and supporting detail on the website include:
A detailed list and review of ALL of the components required to do this DIY project including the Lights, the Controller, the Differential Receiver, connectors and computer equipment including links to purchase all of the parts, and build instructions..
Also included in the tutorial is a detailed, very thorough look at a simplified method of how to do Power Injection including examples of what happens if you do not power inject.
The tutorial then shows you how to assemble all of the components together and how they work together.
Then, I take you on a detailed tour my Christmas Light display set up to show you how its done on my home.
Please find my actual displays in operation at the following playlist link:
• Christmas Lighting wit...
FINALLY something that I can follow. I've been looking for 2 years to get started and this is the one that will do that for me! Using Falcon controller which is exactly what I wanted to do!! Thank you for taking the time to do this!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Thank you for the comment. This is exactly why I put this video together. I'm so happy that it helped you get goin! Have Fun.......... It's addictive!
Did you start it?
This is THE FIRST video explaining AND showing what individual parts do...parts needed...and how everything connects, comes together...the garage floor setup IS A WINNER...search no more, you found THE video...
Thank you Sylain. That is exactly what i was trying to show in this video. Thank you for the comment.
I was watching this and just so many details that I just kept getting lost😫 and yet so confusing!
One smart person there does it right
I know..... it can be a very complicated hobby. That is why I tried my best to simplify it in this tutorial. I know there is a LOT OF INFORMATION TO ABSORB HERE. Don't give up. Try going to my website at www.christmaslightingwithsteve.com and click on "Getting Started" ... Maybe that might help a little bit. Keep learning..... you'll eventually get it.
Look at those degrees though! 🙌🏻
LOL, Wow you get the award for watching the tutorial with the closest detail. A+ to you my friend. But on that note; a degree is NOT a requirement. If you can drill, solder, play video games, and do basic math { P(Watts)=V(volts)xA(Amps)} that's it. NO degree required. You dont even need the basic math part if you follow my tutorial.LOL BTW I learned how to solder from TH-cam. I'm still not that good at it, but good enough! And soldering irons are only $4 bucks at Harbor Freight! That's what I used for my whole show. Get one and start working on your show today! Merry Christmas!
Best power injection coverage so far I was planning to go 12 v mean while 5v is very budget friendly now I’m definitely going 5v. Thanks to you
Thank you Atef. Power injection really is not as complicated as a lot of people think. And you wont need an electrician to add a bunch of power outlets. Easy Peasy :) Thanks for the comment.
Steve,
You're the man! I decided I wanted to do a light show way too late this year (Thanksgiving weekend) and figured I'd have to wait until next year to get anything done. Your video inspired me to get something done this year. After a flurry of Amazon deliveries and an assist by our local high school's auto shop teacher, I was able to emulate your eaves install. I made some minor tweaks to your designs and after pulling out some of my hair, I got it figured out! I'm running 378 pixels along my eaves using a Falcon F48 and a single receiver for now. The power injection was a piece of cake and I was able to build 4 single port power supplies thanks to your components page. I even got my RaspberryPi up and running since xScheduler isn't available for the Mac. Looking forward to putting on a full show next year Thanks again for the amazing tutorial. If you're ever in So. Cal. the first round is on me!
You put all of that together since thanksgiving? YOU'RE THE MAN! NICE JOB. Send me a video of your you display through my contacts page. I would like to see it.... Fantastic... You just made my morning. I'm so happy my tutorial helped you figure it out. Whooo hoooo... Merry Christmas
I too have been researching this stuff for over 2 years and this is by far one of the best most practical explanation and illustrating I have seen so far.
I’m so happy you found it helpful. Thank you so much for the comment. Makes spending the time on these videos all worthwhile.
I really appreciate this video. I have 4 LOR controllers from ~2006, thinking of jumping back in with a newer system. Your walk through was an excellent overview!
Thanks Jason! Time to make the switch to RGB Pixels if you haven't already! LOL.............
@@tara-tech4138 I agree - I've been bitten with the bug before, let's see how deep this rabbit hole is! (I can already tell it is a little deeper.)
I know I am late to this party but WHAT AN AMZING VIDEO!!! For YEARS I have wanted to do a light show but didn’t because I was so overwhelmed I had no idea where to start. This video gives me the confidence to at LEAST start! THANK YOU!!!!
Hi Dana. I’m so happy that this video gave you the confidence to start. That is exactly why i took the time to put this video together. It makes me extremely happy knowing this has motivated someone else to join the party. Check out my website at www.christmaslightingwithsteve.com for parts lists and instructions on how to make all of the electronic boxes used for my display. Although the entire website is still a work in process. Send me a video when you get yours up and running. I would love to see it. Enjoy the journey.
Lol same, I am looking now and learning because I want to to it next year!
I recommend starting with some pixels, power supply/ies, and a $10 controller as a cheap easy way to get started as shown in the video. Then when you get that one channel up and running you are ready to add a computer controlled controller, laptop, and music. Enjoy the journey.
awesome, thanks for the power injection info!
Thanks for the comment. Hope it helped!
Not sure what's more impressive: your system, or your concise and easy-to-follow video. :-) The front-yard walk-through... I wonder how many times you started over, LOL. Nice work and thank you. I just subjected my wife to listening to it in entirety, with various backing up and replays. Thanks for inspiring us. Seems like we're "in", albeit the first of seasonal steps. Will let you know how it goes, and any questions along the way.
Hi Andy, Makes me so happy to hear that this tutorial inspired you. Makes all of the time I spent on it worthwhile. BTW, the front yard walk through was a one take recording as was most of the recordings. LOL.... I'm so glad to hear your wife is coming along for the ride, my wife was only interested in the final product; not really interested in the years worth of work leading up to it .... LOL. She is, however, excited about me adding a mega tree for next years show. If you need more detail be sure to visit my website at www.christmaslightingwithsteve.com. Instructions to build each of the boxes is on the site now, and I will add how I make the PVC props as soon as I find some time. Thanks again for the comment. Have Fun! And enjoy the journey......
@@tara-tech4138 Starting to look for motor options, like to create animated items. 5V motors, like childhood again, but ideally there are ways to connect them to a system and coordinate with the software. Ever looked into such things?
@@AndyPackard Hey Andy, I have never used the F48 controller to turn 5V motors on and off. I know the board supports DMX and other solid state relay boards like the renards. So I'm pretty sure it would probably work, But I haven'd done this myself...... Let me know how it goes!
Very informative and clearly explained,,,,so helpful for my upcoming xmas light build,,,,love it.......
Thank You Joe! I would love to see your show when you get it up and running. Glad I was able to help!
Many thanks for the RGB Christmas lights video
You are welcome. I hope it helped get you started.
The best tutorial I have seen! Thank you! Getting ready to watch more of your videos. :-) P.s. Would love to see how you build your PVC props.
Thank you soo much! Tutorials on building the PVC props is next on my Agenda as soon as I can find some time to work on it. Merry Christmas!
Very impressive light display! I think I might have driven by your house, this looks very familiar during Christmas
Well feel free to c'mon by again this Christmas! Thanks for the comment!
Nice! This was really informative.
I like your power injection technique and the part where the whole system is put together operating in one place. That part made it really easy for me to understand.
I would be interested in more information on the components you used to build the controller box and the differential receiver box and how you assembled those boxes together.
Thanks! Most of the components required to build the boxes are readily available on amazon or your local big box home improvement store. If there is some interest i will put together a detailed video on what I used and how I assembled those boxes. Thanks for the note!
Really detailed video on power injection great job
Thank you. And thanks for the the comment. I hope you and others found it useful. Cheers!
Thank you for the information. Merry Christmas from the Marshall Islands!
Thank you Benedict. I hope you found the information useful. Merry Christmas to you also!
Yokwe from the USA Benedict!! Love the Marshall Islands 🇲🇭 Stop by K&K Island Pride and say hi for us. Kommol
@@randygood3399 hi Randy sure will do. Happy New Year
I am still learning, but this helped me learn all I needed to get started. Thank you!
You welcome. Im so gad it helped! There is still time to get somethin goin by Christmas 😀
This is something I have been contemplating on doing , but didn’t know where to begin. Thanks for the information. a list of what you utilized and the supplier / vendor etc Thanks again 👍🏽
I'm so glad you found it helpful. Thank you. Makes spending the time on this video worthwhile. When I started, I really didn't understand what was needed to make it happen either. That is why I put this video together. Took me a couple of years to actually pull the trigger on starting to put my show together while I researched and learned. My goal is that this tutorial reduces that research and learning time and gives you the confidence and some direction to start today. Have fun. Thanks for the comment!
@@tara-tech4138 thanks again ✌🏽
Finally! A step-by-step with visuals of the hardware! Fine if you say no, but would you share to care your final cost for everything? That would help me decide whether to dive in or not. Take care and thanks again for the vid!
I actually never really totaled it up but I'm guessing I probably have $1200-1500 into it. But....You can start out with just the F48 controller $200, A differential receiver $20, some power supplies $15-$35, some pixels $125/500, some misc connectors, wire, boxes and $4 harbor freight soldering iron. You don't have to start with 3200 pixels like mine. My first year i just had pixels on the eave of my house, a few 5V 8 Amp power supplies, and a $10 single channel controller as explained in my video. Then I grew into the F48 and differential receivers the following year. Start small and add over time. That spreads out the time investment as well LOL
I must commend you and criticize at the same time. What a truly informative and detailed instructional video.
Yet, the 5 second drone video of the completed work was so short it actually angered me. I’d have loved to see at least a minute of a full frontal shot of the house, then the drone showing above.
Please in the future consider this. You went through such a labor of love and taught so well with such concern to get your info across clearly, yet no pride in finished product ?
Thank you, the little I saw of the house it was beautifully done
Thank you for the comment Michael. I appreciate your criticism as well. I'm so happy you found the tutorial informative. Hopefully it inspired you to start your own show.
As for the drone footage, you can see the entire drone footage that I have for my show video at the link below. Starting at location 2:46 (My nieces boyfriend who took the drone video unfortunately only captured one songs worth of video that he sent me)
th-cam.com/video/o1bcOqwF7bk/w-d-xo.html
There are also links on my website at www.christmaslightingwithsteve.com
I did not include the entire drone footage and finished product in this tutorial for several reasons. First, because I already had a video posted of the complete show and this tutorial was already very long. And....secondly and mostly....THIS IS THE BIGGIE, there are music copyright restrictions associated with the full drone video, and I did not want this tutorial to have any copyright restrictions by TH-cam due to using copyrighted music.
I appreciate the criticism. Thank you again for the note. Check out the link above and let me know what you think :)
Happy Holidays!
Very informative tutorial.
Thank You! ............... I hope it inspired you to start your own Christmas display LOL!
This was excellent in demystifying the layouts along with power injection. Showing the layout on the floor for just one falcon controller output and the power cable changes really cleared a lot up. I see the need for the weather proof power injection Tees and will stick with a single supplier. Sold me on the falcon controller.
Darin, I'm so happy that you found this video useful. I am also super happy with my F48 controller selection. Thank you for the comment, I really appreciate it!
@@tara-tech4138 I just ordered my first 500 pixels and looking at best pricing for the boards. I like you clean layout. I have been messing around with arduino and relays with LED lights giving simple flashing modes and fooling others with colors wrapping sets around each other. Blah. And then the nodeMCU for pixels. But I just want to clean it up. I’d be happy to hop on board if you get enough people to purchase the power injection connectors. Count me in. I do have a question. Are you using the typical ray wu 3 pin connectors
Thanks Darin, I'll start a list for those interested in me carrying the power injection connectors on my web site when I get it posted. So far, just me and you :( ................. as far as connectors go, I like to get my stuff from Amazon. So I use BTF Lighting.
@@tara-tech4138 got a question. I like how clean your arches are by drilling the holes and mounting them. What size pvc did you bend to accommodate 50 pc lights which I’m assuming is each arch.
I use 1/2 inch schedule 40 PVC for just about everything. My arches are only 34 lights. I drill at 2 1/4 inch spacing. First I drill a 12 mm hole all the way through the pipe, then i open up just the backside to 1/2 inch. Fits a 12mm pixel perfectly without any kind of fastener. The hard part is bending the PVC. I drill the pipe first. Then I wrap the pipe in tin foil and blue painters tape. I sift sand, to very fine, using a metal colander with holes. Then heat the sand in a pot on a propane camping stove to about 450-500 deg F using a infrared thermometer. Then, I dump the hot sand into the pipe using a metal funnel, then quickly form it, wearing silicone gloves, based on some screws I put on a sheet of plywood to form the arch shape. Let it cool for at least 10 minutes or so. Then remove the foil and dump the sand back into the pot. It took me 9 tries (and 3 scrapped drilled pipe, that hurt badly) to get 6 good arches.
Great, informative video. Made some things that were fuzzy for me clear. Would love to have links to your custom components like your power cut adapter and injector T. Your power injection section was my favorite. Will be how I do mine.
Thanks for the comment Steve, I really like to hear that I'm actually helping someone out. The power injection T does not really have a link. I made the first ones myself using 3 and 2 pin connectors. Then I got smart and I just sent the powerpoint picture shown in the video to a source I contacted out of Hong Kong. The more you order the cheaper they get. If more folks decide to do power injection this way, we should join forces for bigger orders and improved purchasing power. I made my power cut adapters myself per the powerpoint shown in the video using the male and female 3 pin adapters prior to finding my Hong Kong source.
@@tara-tech4138 do you have a link for this Hong Kong hook up. Im very interested in doing this at my home.
Your method has been the simplest way to go about this in my head. Lolol
I need the t connectors and the adapters.
Will you send me the links to buy these connectors?
@@koriman2001 Hii Kori. I use exclusively BTF Lighting "Big" connectors from Amazon. As I progressed in this hobby, I realized the Power Injection Tee and the Power Cut Isolators made power injection very simple for me to understand and do as well. Every other way was very confusing, for me anyway.
I was making them manually with the 2 pin "Big" and 3 pin "Big" connectors from BTF Lighting from Amazon. It took a lot of soldering and electrical tape, but they did the job.
Then I got brave and I decided to contact BTF Lighting directly from a contact page on their website. I got a contact, sent them some sketches of what I wanted, and they were able to make them for me. WHAT A TIME SAVER! As far as I know, there is no link for these. You must solder/make them yourself or order them special. (Then my second order from BTF included more Tee's, 2 pin power supply leads, 3 pin differential receiver leads, 2 pin and 3 pin extensions which I also found I needed).
I have considered buying these in bulk, from BTF Lighting special order and carrying these components on my website www.christmaslightingwithsteve.com. If there is enough interest, I am still interested in doing this, but users would be locked into using BTF Lighting "Big" connectors for most everything (which is fine with me, that is exclusively what I use anyway, and I use a BUNCH of 2 pin and 3 pin "Big" BTF Lighting connectors that I can get directly from Amazon).
I have pictures of what to order from BTF Lighting and/or how to make them out of 2 and 3 pin connectors on my website. But at this time, I don't know where to purchase either of these.
Thank you for this information!
Thank you for the comment. My pleasure!
Looks like a great video. Come Christmas 2021, if I manage it do something similar, I'll ping you a message closer to the time! Many thanks for taking the time to make the video!
Thanks for the comment Len. Start in January to be sure to get it done by Christmas 2021. If your like me and can only work on it on the weekends in between the rest of life, best to start early. Happy Holidays!
Wow this is amazing thank you so much for all the information. I would to get in contact with yoy to see who you used for your injection t's
I used the sketches shown on my website, www.christmaslightingwithsteve.com under components, and sent them to BTF Lighting to make my power injection Tee's, Power Isolators, 2 pin extensions, 3 pin extensions, 3 pin Differential Receiver 10 foot leads, and 2 pin power supply 10 foot leads. Go to their website and find the contact section and send them an email. They were pretty quick at responding for me. I use all BTF Lighting connectors because I can get them from Amazon fairly quickly. I have thought about carrying these for sale on my website, but that would tie you to using BTF Lighting connectors. And once you choose a connector supplier you HAVE to stay with the same supplier because they all make their connectors slightly differently.
I'd like to echo many comments made here and say this step by step walk thru really cleared up a lot of questions I had with regard to network hardware and how everything is connected. I've been doing a lot of research this past month preparing for my first light display (for 2021 season). This is the first video I found that explains in easy to follow detail exactly what I need to do to start my planning process. Thank you! I have subscribed! I do have a few questions.
1. What spacing did you use between pixels on your eave lights? Looks like 2" or 3"? Do you like the spacing or wished you'd went shorter?
2. How is your computer setup? It looks like you have your laptop running xLights for setup and sequencing. Then you have a Raspberry Pi. Do you have the Falcon Player on the Raspberry Pi? Does xlights (on your laptop) talk to the Pi thru your router then the pi sends the sequences to the falcon controller?
3. Is there anything you would have done differently knowing what you know now Vs. When you first started out?
Thanks again and look forward to checking out your website for more great ideas! FYI: I believe you've convinced me to go 5V instead of 12V mainly because of wire size. I'll still do more research to see which way works best for me but am definitively leaning heavy on the 5V side.
Thank you sooo much for the comment. It really makes me feel good when my tutorial is actually helping someone out. Makes all of the time I spent putting it together worthwhile. Now for your questions....
1. I use 2 1/4 in spacing, because I mainly use almost entirely Alitove 5V pixels from Amazon at $125/500 and that is the perfect spacing for those pixels. I like that spacing, I think it makes for a great look with my mostly PVC props.
2. Yep, I used a laptop running Xlights scheduler first then the raspberry Pi later later. There are very detailed step by step instructions for setting up falcon Pi player on the Raspberry Pi on the Internet and it worked first time for me. Eventually I'll put a link on my website for you guys for those instructions when I find them again. Yes, your laptop talks to the Raspberry Pi through the router. You create the lighting/song sequences in Xlights, then you transfer the .fseq files to the Raspberry Pi. Then the Raspberry Pi runs the .fseq files. You can then just leave the Raspberry Pi attached to the router as well as the controller. Then you can disconnect the laptop from the router and the Raspberry Pi runs the whole show through the router (I think it is best to have a separate inexpensive show router). This leaves the laptop free to use however you need. I leave my Raspberry Pi running 24 hours a day during show season, and I have all of my controller and pixel power supply extension cords on 120V Christmas dial timers.
3. Would I do anything different? Actually no! I am extremely happy with the time I took to figure out how to standardize the setups and design the boxes and associated wire accordingly. I knew I a wanted 5V system due to the power usage and lower pixel cost. I knew I wanted a distributed system (The F48 Controller; And actually Dave Pitts from Falcon convinced me to wait until the F48 came out when I talked to him about what controller I wanted, it wasn't out yet when I started). Also, having a distributed system allowed me to minimize wire lengths and thus smaller wire sizes since my house lot is spread out a bit. I knew I wanted a standard setup for any area irregardless of how the props were designed or set up in the yard or on the house. I did not want a different setup for any specific prop or area. I'm actually very happy with the way I did it and would definitely do it again the same way if I started over. And I am also happy with the time I spent to make everything water resistant the way I did. My display works even during heavy rains.
The only big lesson learned is ..... originally I made my own power injection Tee's, Power Isolators, Leads and Extensions with wire and 2 and 3 pin BTF Lighting Big connectors, solder and shrink tube. The best thing I ever did was to make sketches of what I wanted (you can find the sketches on my website) and send them to BTF Lighting (or your favorite supplier) and have them make all of the 3-2-3 Pin Power Injection Tees, 10ft openwire-3 Pin Differential receiver leads, 10ft openwire-2 pin power supply leads 3-3 Pin power cut isolators, 2-2 Pin Extensions and 3-3 pin Extensions. Yes it took some time to wait for them to come in from Hong Kong (probably about the same time it would have taken me to make them myself) but it saves a ton load of soldering time, and costs about the same price as making them yourself. I wish I had the courage to contact BTF Lighting on the side, through their website way way way way way sooner. Would have saved me a bunch of time and their quality is way better than mine.
Also. Remember 5V requires BIGGER wires than 12V because 5V carries higher amperage to maintain the same power level (Power= Amps x Volts). That's the beauty of the F48. The distributed F48 allows you to just run a really long LAN cable (Cat 6 or 5e) close to the prop area, then use a smaller gauge wire due to shorter distances to the pixels and power supplies. I use almost entirely 16 gauge wire now and max my lengths to 20 feet. I initially used 12 gauge landscaping wire for the Power Supplies, but after establishing the relationship with BTF Lighting I use THEIR 16 gauge (1.3mm2 wire...It's actually a bit smaller than traditional 16 gauge) on all of the leads and special connectors and found it works with no problem. Probably because I run my lights at only 40%. Any more than that and it would blind the international space station LOL.
I know this answer is long winded, but hope it answers your questions. Have Fun, Enjoy the journey........... Merry Christmas. You can also contact me on the contact form via my website.
Thanks for the quick reply Steve! With regard to the Raspberry Pi, did you need to set up a monitor, keyboard & mouse (to access Falcon Player) or were you able to remotely access the Pi thru your laptop? Was checking out your website. Looking forward to your future write-ups... especially your future new Mega Tree addition (5V?)
@@patrickg8444 No need for a separate monitor, keyboard or mouse. Correct, you just remote into it via your laptop a browser and an IP address.
Website is still a very much work in process, but the parts lists and instructions on how to build the boxes is good. I’ll Have a lot more time to work on it after the holidays.
Yep, hope to have a bit on the website on my 2021 mega tree, which is my next lighting project. Who knows maybe I’ll also make a video of it when I get goin LOL.
Thanks again!
Bonjour et bravo pour votre installation
J'habite en France
Je prends plaisirs à regarder votre vidéo
Merci
M.laigle C
Merci d'avoir regardé. Je suis heureux que vous l'ayez apprécié.
Thank you for this video!
Thank you for the note Darren. Happy Holidays!
GREAT Video! You put in a very easy to see and understand point of view. Thank you for the video. Seems your website is down though.
Thanks Luis. It makes me happy knowing that the time I spent on the video actually helps someone. Thanks for the comment. Website shows up for me right now www.christmaslightingwithsteve.com. Thanks again!
@@tara-tech4138 Yup, your site is up. The server your site is hosted on was listed in a mail firewall blacklist. whitelisted it for now. Thanks again!!
Thank you I cant wait to do this
Thanks for the comment Randy. Have Fun. Start in January, so you will be sure to finish by next Christmas!
I can tell you must be an engineer
but you do not need to be an engineer to be able to have cool dancing Christmas lights... LOL
Tara-Tech, what would you say something of that size would be the total cost? I am going to be putting together a light show this holiday season.
Yeah, how much does a setup like that run??
Hi Scott and Stephen. I have 3200 Pixels and I would guess that I probably have $1200-1500 into it. But....You can start out with just the F48 controller $200, A differential receiver $20, some power supplies $15-$35, some pixels $125/500, some misc connectors, wire, boxes and $4 harbor freight soldering iron. You don't have to start with 3200 pixels like mine. My first year i just had pixels on the eave of my house, a few 5V 8 Amp power supplies, and a $10 single channel controller as explained in my video. Then I grew into the F48 and differential receivers the following year. Start small and add over time. That spreads out the time investment as well LOL. I have all the links for the hardware I used on my website www.christmaslightingwithsteve.com . You can check those links out and get an idea of how much things cost. Most of the props are just drilled PVC, so that is fairly low cost.
Muchas gracias por compartir aprendí mucho por su gran trabajo felicidades
Gracias por el comentario. Espero que esto te haya motivado a montar tu propio programa. ¡Mantenerse a salvo!
Did you just use pvc and drill through it?
Yep.... I drill 1/2 inch schedule 40 pvc with a 12mm Forstner bit all the way through using a cheap wooden jig I made. (The forstner bit helps prevent the drill bit from pulling up the PVC pipe when drilling, If you use a regular bit you will have to really pay attention in holding down the pipe to the jig) then redrill the backside with 1/2 inch regular drill bit. This hole setup holds a 12mm pixel perfectly with no fastener required. I use 2 1/4 inch spacing, so 50 pixels fits in just under a 10 foot pipe. Then I use a one sided metal pipe support and squeeze it down just a touch with channel locks so the pvc clips in perfectly. I put 5 pipe supports per 50 pixels/pipe. Then I hang from eave using small cup hooks. I leave the hooks on the house all year. Each pipe section comes up and down in just a few minutes or so. This by far took the most time in getting my display set up.
You should sell complete kits lights and all for what you use on your house, you would sell them easy to people like me.
Thank you for the comment Tracy. I have thought about selling kits, but unfortunately EVERY house is different. So it is difficult to standardize for everyone. And It does take a lot of time to put this all together. But I have thought about building and selling the F48 controller boxes, the differential receiver boxes, the power supply boxes, the power injection Tees, and leads. But I have not received much interest in it. But thanks for the idea! I have the instructions on how to build each of the boxes and leads on my website www.christmaslightingwithsteve.com. Check it out!
This is excellent job to show how newbie do xmas light, are you using 1/2" PVC pipe?
yep... 1/2 in, schedule 40. except for the poles, I think its 1 1/2 inch.
Because that is what I'm wanting to put in my front yard
Hi Brian, thanks for the comment. Its not very hard, just takes a bit of time :)
I would live to see the PVC pipe up close. To see how you made the holes etc.
What size PVC did you use, 3/4"?
Thanks for the note Tim..... I use mostly 1/2 in schedule 40. I think the poles are 1.5 in. I hope to add how I made the props to my website and maybe some youtube videos soon.
Do you have a video or could you point me in the direction of how to use the Raspberry Pi vs a laptop/desktop?
I was trying to find the instructions I followed when I set up my Raspberry Pi, but I have been unable to find it right now. I'll keep looking. Try Googling or You Tube searching Falcon Pi Player setup on Raspberry Pi and there are a lot of different instructions on how to install and setup a Raspberry Pi to run Falcon Pi Player. Basically after you have the Raspberry Pi set up you can run the entire show from it, freeing up the computer for other uses. You basically use the computer to sequence the show using Xlights, then save the sequencing file as a .fseq file. Then you transfer the .fseq files to the Raspberry Pi. Then the Falcon Player on the Raspberry Pi runs the .fseq files, IE the whole show. Or you can run the show using Xlights scheduler, but then the computer is tied up while the show is in operation. Hope this points you in the right direction. Sorry I'm not much help here right now....... I'll keep looking to find the instructions I used.
So am I correct that with that program you can create shows for your own music, you don't have to buy preprogrammed song/light shows?
HI Jeff, Correct, if you use xlights you can use ANY mp3 file; Music, voice, custom mixes. I did not use anything pre programmed. I made the mix using audacity, then imported that into Xlights and created the light show with my props to my mix. Its not that hard, just takes time!
What size fuse between the power supply and controller board
Do you have a list of the components you bought and where you bought them from?
What I like to know is how do you do the UV meter in your windows .showed wire and many pixels. Are they wired zigzag or what
Each shutter is just a small zig zag matrix. And the meter is a canned effect in xlights. You can set the beat sensitivity and the level sensitivity. If you would like more detail than this please let me know.
Amazing job, since 4 years I’m looking to build like this. But 3 times I moved to different houses. How can I build like this. Are you making and selling like this?. How much will come all for this accessories. Without any electrical background can we do this ?. All accessories are available in the market?.
Hi John. Anyone can do this. I have a website, www.christmaslightingwithsteve.com that explains where to buy parts and how I built my control boxes. Unfortunately right now it looks like some GRINCH, has hacked it, some eyeglass company. I’ll try to get it fixed as soon as i can. Everything is available on the open market online and big box stores. And if you don’t want to build it yourself, you can purchase the boxes from various sources, but will cost a bit more than DIY. Hope this inspires you to get started. I put this video together to try to minimize the research required to get started, mostly explaining the control boxes. It does but not show how i built my props however, which are mainly just drilled PVC pipe. Its not that incredibly expensive if you DIY. Its a lot of fun. I have become a really good wire solderer. Thats the skill required the most that i had to learn how to do. Easy peasy now. Merry Christmas.
@@tara-tech4138 thank you
If you don't mind me asking, how much did your whole display cost? Really wanna do this.
I probably have $1200-1500 into it. But....You can start out with just the F48 controller $200, A differental reciever $20, some power supplies $15-$35, some pixels $125/500, some misc connectors, wire, boxes and $4 harbor freight soldering iron. You dont have to start with 3200 pixels like mine. My first year i just had pixels on the eave of my house, a few 5V 8 Amp power supplies, and a $10 single channel controller as explained in my video. Then I grew into the F48 and differential recievers the following year. Start small and add over time. That speads out the time investment as well LOL.
Would you rather use 12v led lights rather than 5v to avoid all the power injection required? What would be your pros and cons on that issue? I have researched that using 12v at proper wattage and amps at 50% brightness max they can be chained to 600 to 750 nodes without degrading.
I use 5V pixels almost entirely because of power consumption.
50 5V pixels at max power draw 15 Watts (3A X 5V = 15 W) where 50 12V pixels draw 36 Watts (3A x 12V = 36 Watts). More than double. I ensure that power is never more than 50 pixels away from power. That is a VERY safe rule of thumb based on running 100% brightness. I also run my brightness at 50% so this is very safe. The alternative safety for 12Volt pixels would be to ensure that power is never more than 100 pixels away from power.
My show has 3400 Pixels, so assuming max power i use about 1020 Watts; less than a hair dryer ((3400 /50) x 15 = 1020 watts), since i run at 50% I'm probably using 500 Watts; fairly low power usage. I do not get much of a spike in my power bill.
If it was a 12V show, it would use 2448 Watts ((3400/50) x 36 = 2448 watts), almost two hair dryers), at 50% it would be 1224 Watts. Almost a hair dryers worth of power.
I do not think you could get 600 12V pixels to operate without power injection even at 50% without color degradation. 600 12V pixels would require 36 amps ((600/50) x 3 Amps = 36 amps). At 50% it would be 18 amps. That would require a wire size of 14 or 12 gauge (or thicker) wire depending on the distance. I'm sure the wire gauge between pixels is 18 at best. The pixels I buy are 20 gauge at best. They could never handle 18 Amps.
I have gone as high as 64 pixels on my 5V system without incident, but I don't trust going more than that. I am a rather be safe than sorry kinda guy.
5V Pros: less than half of the power usage. The F48 and separate differential receivers allows the props to be close to the differential receivers and associated power supplies, so long distances and power loss concerns are not much of an issue. That's another reason why I really like the F48 with separate differential receivers and why I use 6 port AND 1 port power supplies. 12 Volt has less voltage drop over longer distances than 5V on same size wire. Also 5V pixels are usually a little bit less expensive than 12V pixels. 5V Cons: more power injection (but lower power power supplies).
The 12V vs 5V debate will go on forever. They both work. I just dont like increases in my electric bill :) Just be sure to size the power supplies and wire appropriately and either will work. The magic formula to use is Power in Watts = Amps X Volts and wire gauge vs amps charts can be found online.
I standardized on 5V on 16 gauge wire, max 20 feet usually only 10 feet, and pixels no more than 50ish pixels away from power, and I don't concern myself with the power, voltage, amperage, wire size math too much. I also make sure EVERY wire circuit is fused correctly, pixels and power injection. Its a good standard and has worked for me without any problems. Hope this helped :)
By the way, all of this MATH, power supply sizing and locations, wire sizing, fusing, etc. has been thought out and sized appropriately per the standards addressed here in the recommended designs of "The Components" on my website at
christmaslightingwithsteve.com/the-components/
Thank you this video teaches you a lot question where could I buy all these controllers and lights.
Thank you for the comment. If you visit my website at www.christmaslightingwithsteve.com and go to the components section, it will tell you the parts I used, where I bought them, and how to build it. For the power supplies, I show what to order on Amazon, but if you want a better deal on Meanwell power supplies, I use TRC electronics, www.trcelectronics.com, especially if you buy 10 or more at once. Falcon F48 pixel controller is from www.pixelcontroller.com, most everything else, including the pixel lights are from Amazon and misc hardware is from Home Depot and Ace Hardware. A good wire source is www.wireandcableyourway.com. A good source for custom connectors (2 or 3 pin), Power Injection Tees, and extension leads that I use is www.btf-lighting.com. Hope this helps! Enjoy the journey!
Great. It demystifies the process. Make those T connectors available for purchase?
Including you, that makes only 3 people interested in me carrying the Tee connectors on my website for purchase. Just remember you would be locked into using BTF Lighting "Big" connectors for everything........ Like me! :) Until I get more interest, go to my website, www.christmaslightingwithsteve.com, download the sketch for it under the components page, and go to BTF Lighting webpage and click on contacts and someone there will help you place an order through email and you pay through paypal
Are those just nema connections in the differential box?
In the differential receiver box there are 3 wires that go to the connectors that go to the pixels and and 3 wires (ground, neutral, line) that connects to the power supply cord (120v) that has a 3 prong (NEMA) on the end to plug into a 120v outlet for power. Get the complete parts list and where to buy on my website www.christmaslightingwithsteve.com.
Can exist a Bluetooth Christmas light show? Instead FM?
Hi A Reyes. I have not been able to find a bluetooth or acceptable WIFI solution yet. I imagine there would be way too much latency between the music and the lights blinking. Great question though. Please let me know if you find something. Wifi with a downloadable App for your phone to listen to the show would be cool. Each house show could even have a unique show number and sync the music with Xlights via the App. Then anyone who has a light show could use the same App. After they watch your show the App could have local maps to take them to the next closest show. Any programmers out there?
So that main controller runs all the differential receivers
Correct!
I love it Nice , im new in all this can post video how control each light from the xlight and how conected to the falcon48 im looking for how programing the light how many can conect on each port and how can i do you have a realt NICE SET UP I LIKEIT
I wanna do a tree plus 6 arch to star i have falcon 48 and 6 recivers tks ... FELIZ NAVIDAD
Sounds like you are on your way to a great show! With an F48 and 6 receivers you can control a lot of lights.
The F48 gets connected to your computer via an IP address. I use a simple router to assign an IP address for the controller. There are other ways but this is the simplest for me. Then you can configure the controller using a web browser and the IP address.
I use XLights to program the lights. It is a free program and works great and is constantly being updated/improved. XLights also communicates with the F48 via the IP address.
I would recommend watching XLights tutorials on TH-cam to see how each port is connected to XLights and how the pixels and channels are configured. Its not hard and watching the XLights tutorials will answer your questions. In my show, I have only scratched the surface of everything Xlights can actually do. I still have a lot to learn there. I realize my tutorial only addresses the hardware, not the software side of things. I think existing tutorials give the software learning more justice than I can ever do. Thanks for the comment. Have Fun. Enjoy the learning journey. Its addictive :) I also plan to add a mega tree next year.
Hi mate how did you make the pixel matrix on your window shutters and can you take some close up i is of it matey
Not sure how to post a picture in comments. I will take some pictures later today and post on my website www.christmaslightingwithsteve.com. Basically, I drill 1/2 in schedule 40 PVC with 12mm forstner bit all the way through at 2 1/4 in spacing using a cheapo drill fixture I made out of old plywood then I redrill the backside with 1/2 inch standard drill. Then cut the ends just perfectly for an elbow or Tee to go on all the way connected without interfering with the holes. Then just use PVC Tees and Elbows to put it together. Push the lights in through the backside with, in my case, one power injection Tee. Gotta get the spacing just right to make a 2 1/4 in spacing make it around the corners. If not you have to extend the leads around the corner or scallop the elbow or Tee to make the lead reach. I hang it just from the top by putting two one sided pipe clamps at the top and put two cup screws in the top of my shutter. Ill take some pictures and post later today.
Awsome video!!!!, good setup. I'm working on mine for this 2021 christmas. I want to start with my front windows, but I'm struggling with how to hold the pixels in place to make these looks straight and symmetrical. I saw you use PVC pipes right? I think it's a good idea, I will try with some pvc to see how it looks. If you have any tips about how to make thosse pvc lines let me know. Regarding to the light show I will use arduino to start but I'm also thinking about use my raspberry pi. Another question is how do you sync the Xlight software with your falcon board?? I'm wondering how that works. I love your Christmas lights, GREAT JOB!!!
Thank you Orlando for the comment.
As for drilling the PVC. I start with schedule 40 ½ inch PVC. I first use a long piece of 1/4x1/4 square steel tube to draw a straight line along the length of the tube with a permanent marker. This is because the holes have a tendency to spiral along the length if you don’t have a line to follow. Then I built a small jig to ensure that each of the holes is equally spaced. The jig is basically just a ½ inch dowel pin sanded down to a bit less than 12 mm with 2 ¼ equal spacing from the dowel pin to the drill hole center location. I found that a 12mm forstner bit on a small table top drill press is best for drilling straight through both sides of the PVC pipe. A standard bit has a tendency to pull the PVC up while drilling, which is not fun. Then come back on the back side and widen the 12 mm hole using a ½” drill bit. But only on the backside (one hole) to make it way easier to install a 12 mm bullet pixel without the need of any additional support for the pixel. Clean all of the PVC marking off with rubbing alcohol or sand off with sand paper prior to installing the pixel bulbs. I bought a special pair of pliers on-line to make it easier to push the pixels into the holes because it is hard on your fingers. A small hand reamer is also helpful for those slightly oversized pixels that fit too tight into the holes. I usually make a batch of 12-16 drilled PVC pipe at a time. Unfortunately it is quite time consuming.
I use Xlights, with a Falcon F48 controller, and differential receivers to sync the lighting effects with the music. At first I used a laptop to run the show. The laptop sends the XLights software lighting effects signals to the F48 controller via a dedicated show router. I use Cat 6 cable from my laptop to the router, then Cat 6 cable from the router to the F48 controller. (Xlights software sees the F48 as an IP address to communicate with it). Then I use long Cat 6 cables that go from the F48 controller to the various differential receivers located near the pixel light props, and ultimately 3 wire cable from the differential receivers to the pixel bulb strings. Once you have it working on a laptop, you can set up a raspberry Pi to run the show to free up your laptop. I have never used an Arduino.
Checkout my website at www.christmaslightingwithsteve.com for more details. The site is far from finished but it might give you a bit more information.
Thanks for the comment. Its fun learning this hobby.
@@tara-tech4138 thanks for all the details, I already finish one Window (9'x5') and I was using the 12mm bit with a drill press. The most time consuming is the pvc holes and pixel instalation, rather than that everything else es easy. For roof lines, what do you recommend? My rood is mansard style so I have a lot of lines I can fill with pixels but I think using pvc pipes is too difficult due the labor. Does pixels works with any universal light brackets??
Hey Orlando, I have not tried anything else and have not researched any universal light brackets sorry. I have only used the PVC and have spent a significant amount of time drilling holes. Not only the 12mm through hole but opening up the backside hole to 1/2 inch to make it easier to install the pixel. I really like the way the PVC looks and I also like how easy it is to remove and store the approximately 9.5 foot long PVC stick of 50 pixels (with 2/4 inch spacing). Its hard to drill and load the pixels the first year, but following years is super easy to set up since I store the PVC stick with the pixels installed. I just put 5 "C" shaped pipe supports on the PVC stick and hang it on my eave with small cup hooks. So I will probably stay with the drilled PVC technique. If you come up with something better and easier that still maintains the straightness and spacing and ease of removal, storage and replacement PLEASE let me know! BTW the 1/2 inch hole on the one backside hole and pixel installation pliers makes the job of pushing the pixels a lot easier.
This is awesome man. I've looked through some of the comments...but did have one question. Once you transfer the data from the Falcon to the differential receiver box...how is the data distributed/split between each of the 4 circuits?
In Xlights after you set up your models, the setup tab has a controller visualization tool that allows you to drag and drop your pixels/models onto whichever differential receiver port/output you desire. Then it has an upload tool that allows you to automatically upload that configuration onto your Controller/Differential receivers. There is a slider in the F48 controller setup that allows you to distribute the maximum amount of pixels allowed per port (1024) per 3 groups of 16 differential receiver ports/outputs. I leave mine balanced equally at 340 (340x3groups=1024 max) Pixels per port, but that can be changed and set as you desire if you desire more pixels per port. This short reply does not give it justice, but there are a bunch of TH-cam videos out there on the subject. Hope this helped!
@@tara-tech4138 thanks for the response.
I was not so much speaking of the software transfer. Sorry for the miscommunication.
I’m more so speaking of what the ethernet cable from the Falcon physically plugs into once ran to the differential receiver...
I guess..what is housed in the differential receiver box for the data?
Sorry. The differential reciever box has a small differential reciever board in it that has an ethernet connector on it for the cable from the F48 to the differential reciever. I actually run a short ethernet cable inside of the box to a ethernet cable gland that i can plug into from outside of the box. Hope that answered your question.
So for those power cut adapters you’re just cutting the positive wire and leaving the negative intact, correct?
Correct, you can easily just cut the positive. Leave the negative AND data wires intact.
From your power supply to your T... what size wire did you use?
I use 12 gauge landscape lighting wire for power supply, 2 pin to Tee
@@tara-tech4138 could I use 10 gauge or is that too thick? I have over 1000’ of 10 gauge.
@@tara-tech4138 your video was the best video I have seen. Great job.
@Aaron Palusso I don`t think wire can ever be too thick, only too thin :). 10 gauge would work fine as long as you can get that guage around the power supply mounts. I just looked at one of mine, i think 10 gauge would work just fine. That wire will come in handy ☺
@Aaron Palusso Thank you very much. Makes me happy when i actually help and inspire someone. Makes all of the time I spent on the video all worthwhile. Thanks!
What is ur power bill look like after a month of show?
As indicated in the tutorial, these LED's do not use much power. I only run mine at 40% brightness because any more than that and it would light up the whole neighborhood LOL....My electric bill for Nov and Dec are up MAYBE 10 bucks each month..... if that!
Good afternoon I can't find that web page
Hi Alexander. I just checked. My website is still up and running www.christmaslightingwithsteve.com. Please Let me know if you still cant get in.
Where do you buy power T connecters?
I sent the sketch you can find on my website, www.christmaslightingwithsteve.com, look under the components button, to BTF Lighting and they make them custom. I use exclusively BTF Lighting "big" connectors because they are easy to order from Amazon. Go to BTF Lighting webpage and click on contacts and someone there will help you place an order through email and you pay through paypal.
Your website isn’t working!
Light bill 📈📈📈📈📈📈
About $15 more per month. LEDs do not use a lot of power (especially the 5V) and most of the time ALL of the lights are never on at the same time.
hi how much to come n do this for me ?
Hi Luz, This is a couple thousand dollars of parts and several hundred hours of labor. I have never done this for anyone but myself! If you go to my website www.christmaslightingwithsteve, I have instructions on how to build all of this equipment. Its not hard, just time consuming.
Is it very expensive to start a show like this?
i actually never really fully totaled mine up. But it is a hobby and there is some expense. The F48 controller circuit board is $200, then you have to add in a power supply, associated box items and wires. The differential receiver board is only $20 but once again you need a power supply, associated box items and wires. Then you need power injection power supplies wires and boxes, then miscellaneous wire, connectors, & lights. The lights i buy are $125 per 500 on amazon. I base my show totally on drilled PVC pipe, which keeps my props pretty cheap but a lot of time is spent drilling holes in PVC. In short, I don't think it will cost too much more than purchasing a bunch of store bought static display Christmas display items, but in general its not "inexpensive" (but probably cheaper than like a Golf hobby :) ). If I had to just guess, since I never really totaled it up, I would guess that my entire set up including everything, including 3200 pixels, 9 ish differential receivers, and 12ish 1 and 6 port power supplies, not including the laptop, I'm probably into it for about $1200-$1500 ish. But once you have the controller, differential receivers, and power supplies done, then the big expense (in terms of dollars and time) is done. Hopefully that answers your question. To keep it affordable i learned how to do almost everything DIY.
I want to do an inside and outside Frozen themed birthday show in April but I want to get bubble fake snow blowers involved and blue icicles. If you can message me or something, I'd like to hire you to do this. I'll get all the necessary equipment needed. I'll make a blueprint and tell you my idea. You can message me through Google Plus
Where are you located? Please send me a note through the contact page on my website. www.christmaslightingwithsteve.com
I am from India N2 and I want to make in India
Hey Salomon, Hopefully this tutorial gave you the confidence to get started. Have Fun!
How many lights total?
Mine is about 3200
How much did you pay for that because I was thinking of doing this
You can start out with just the F48 controller $200, A differental reciever $20, some power supplies $15-$35, some pixels $125/500, some misc connectors, wire, boxes and soldering equipment. You dont have to start with 3200 pixels like mine. My first year i just had pixels on the eave of my house, a few 5V 8 Amp power supplies, and a $10 single channel controller as explained in my video. Then grow into the F48 and differential recievers the following year. Thats what I did and I totally recommend doing it that way.
Where do you get all the equipment?
Hi Luis, Thanks for the comment.
You can get parts lists including links on where to purchase, build and assembly instructions for most of the components on my website...
www.christmaslightingwithsteve.com
@@tara-tech4138 pixelcontroller.com sells f48 box already assembled, would that work? It says it can hold up to 12 differential receivers
Yes Luis, that Falcon F48 is the exact same assembled controller board that I use. The controller also requires a power supply, I think at least 2 or 3 amp. I use a meanwell 8 amp because i like the size of it to fit in the box i use. Then I mount everything in a box for weatherproofness because I leave it outside. See what I use for my F48 Control Box here:
christmaslightingwithsteve.com/f48%20Control%20box/
Hope that helps.
@@tara-tech4138 Does the Falcon 48 uses 5v or 12v?
@@morrisdavis4186 The Falcon 48 can use either 5V or 12V.
My wife would divorce me! and I would expect her to!! LMAO
No divorce needed, you will only be “separated” for one year while you get all of the electronics and props built. Then you can totally makeup under the romantic backdrop of flashing Christmas lights. And live even better, more loving and more Christmas spirited happily ever after. Ha.ha.ha. LOL
@@tara-tech4138 Have you looked into the DIGquad and going wireless? LED Tech is getting really cool! Check this out... th-cam.com/video/lXHQ5iTpCfg/w-d-xo.html
@@tara-tech4138 Then add xLights! Cool stuff! th-cam.com/video/p7wV6A26Gak/w-d-xo.html
@@danfitzpatrick4112 yes Dan I watched that vid about a month or so ago. Yes that is next on my list...... investigating wireless. In fact I just recently ordered an eps pixel stick to play around with. Hopefully I will receive it soon.
@@tara-tech4138 I ordered a DIGuno myself as well as a couple of 8266 modules and LED strips for my TV to mess with for ambient sync lighting with my android TV. I don't have a need for HDMI inputs, but with the android TV, the app for WLED, and module.. I am hoping to have a nice clean way to have the effects without all the nasty cables everywhere
They way you say components is different and a bit weird for me.
You pronounce it like you would compound or compost.
I pronounce it is more like compute
Come-p-own-it’s
Toe-Ma-Toe, Toe-May -Toe; Poe-Ta-Toe, Poe-Tay-Toe, Uh-lume-in-um, Al-you-min-ee-uhm. Good thing we are all diverse in our own way.................. Thanks for the comment!
"lan lines" .... You mean... Cat6?
Local Area Network lines. Yes cat6, cat5e will work also.
That wire looks like a rat's nest!!!!
I would have been better off measuring the distances to keep from having the stacks of wire coiled up. But I wasn't EXACTLY sure where I was going to put the boxes until I actually did it. It may look like a rats nest but it really is not. A good skill would be to learn how to make custom LAN cables. I was never able to get the connectors to work right so I gave up after a couple of tries. So I just bought extra long knowing that extra long was way better than too short :) Thanks for the comment.