Attempt to DISC the Garden BREAKS 2 Tractors! John Deere 1025R, Kubota LX3310
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 1 ต.ค. 2024
- Time to disc the garden! First Tractor Time with Tim & Dave use the John Deere 1025R with Tractor Basics disc to work the garden until they break the tractor. Next the Kubota LX3310 gets a try at pulling the disc until it breaks. Finally Tim breaks out the John Deere 3046R but doesn't get far with it either.
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I am 16-year-old and I bought my first tractor. I love watching your videos. To see what implements I should get next.
Congratulations! What tractor did you get? What will you be using it for?
Apparently you shouldn’t buy this attachment, it will break your tractor too. Just kidding. Get to know your maintenance manual well. I suggest keeping an extra of each filter and oils. Good luck
It would be wise to get a loader, unless you have it already and a box blade. You can do so many different things with a box blade. After some time and money you could get a grapple of some sort.
This is a great channel not only for which attachment to get but how to use them.
I want to get a third function kit so I can put a grapple on there
I'm not a full time farmer but: In my experience it was plow first then disc. Disc was more useful in breaking and smoothing the clods from plowing than deep grow zone turning. For small seed plants: I use a 7' 3 point tiller set at 5" deep. For deer food plots that seems to be perfect. Don't have a no-till planter so can't use one.
You are spot on first plov then the disc Harow before you can Harow the field Greetings from Norway
Exactly. Plow then disc.Could have rototilled it in half the time, without all the screwing around. He's an internet professional
I think the point was to show this for those that don't have a plow and have too small a plot to warrant the investment in both.
From my family's farm that's how it was done.
@@Dan-nj8du I prefer a tiller it does both the first time
Glad to see a video matching my usual tractor (most equipment) experience. One hour working the ground 3 hours modifying and fixing the equipment. 😊
Yep. That is the way it goes sometimes.
Get used to it. That's fairly normal anytime you use equipment
The quick couplers facing straight up on the Kubota made my eyes twitch especially when noticing the rust. :)
that and that part that broke didn't exactly make orange look good did it?
@@donalexander4083ah, I break stuff on the green too.
yeah and sometimes things break on those that doesn't make the green look too good either 😄
and I am still trying to figure out how a push pull rod snaps in half
any thing standing out to you on what caused that?
@@TractorTimewithTim
@@donalexander4083not sure. Some comments think it was stuck, not allowing rotation. Maybe Dave yanked it? We’ll know more when we fix.
@npalen - Yeah, the couplers facing straight up does seem odd. That's a poorly done dealer or personal installation. Also, they make covers for those that would keep them clean when not in use.
Stuff only breaks when you use it. Have yet to break a tractor that was parked in the barn.
That's some grandpa wisdom there. True as can be but you never think of it that way
Mice eating wire harnesses, mud bees clogging open vent hoses, spiders getting in fuel tanks etc.😂
You really meed to buy the plugs they make for the quick couplers on the back of the Kubota to protect them when not in use. All that rust will contaminate your hydraulic system.
Regarding the quick hitch, would you be better in this case removing it, just to jettison the extra weight? With the 3-point really close to pickup capacity for it, would that be enough to make the difference?
After buying my Kubota tractor I bought a quick hitch from Tractor Supply. I have 2 older implements that would not fit correctly onto the hitch so I modified the implements and made them fit.
holding that broken bolt with your hand inside the moving 3 point setup? Dangerous??
Thank you Tim for sharing and showing real-world projects. Stuff happens and some TH-camrs only show perfection.
This is what really happens. You simply figure it out then keep going.
We had a run of bad luck on this one. Oh well. Got one fixed, and ordered part for the Kubota. Won't be long on it.
A disc on the smaller tractors is a waste, a good tiller (not the cheap junk!) would do a much better job and faster even though travel speed is slower. I tilled gardens as a business for many years starting in high school and would take a heavy sod grass area to ready to plant garden in 2 to 3 passes 8" deep with a JD 955 and JD 660 tiller. The small discs dont have enough weight to cut and also lot harder to chop up the sod. I was tilling red clay and shale ground in NW Virginia.
I agree with the disc being a lousy choice in principle with small tractors which means small tires. Discs need 5mph plus speed to work properly and lots of frame weight to make them penetrate. A high quality tiller going slower is great .
@@johnkemp4370y'all are full of it. I have a 770 jd with a heavy 5 ft disc and i pull it to the axles with a board behind. Does just fine
2152 you must be in sandy soil, not central Texas black dirt
I bought a sidearm ditchbank mower @ an auction & got a quickhitch to try to make it easier to attach to the tractor. Turns out the toplink pin on the mower is 4" too high for the quickhitch. Not sure what the solution should be. It takes probably an hour to hook up by myself the way it is. I've considered Pat's quickhitch.
Pat’s probably best.
Doesn't look like you've given the Kubota any love, very rusty hydraulic connectors and frame. A little more Wd-40 please.
One frame piece is rusty...across between the rops. I showed a photo of the problem last year. We had it parked right under a birds nest. They pooped on the seat and on this frame piece. Totally corroded it in just a couple of weeks! Barn swallows I think. We are now aware of where they nest, and avoid parking stuff right under it.
@TractorTimewithTim Thank you Tim.
I'm curious as to why would you even choose to pull the disc with the 1025R when you have the 2038R, 3046R, and the Kubota? Not to mention the small tire size makes making multiple passes at different angles more of a rodeo.
Easy answer. There are 10x 1025r’s out there compared to 3R’s….for example.
Everyone wants to know what the 1025r can handle.
By your logic, I would never use the 1025r.
Hit it 2 or 3 passes with the disk, let it sit couple days then run a tiller through. Lot of wasted time here with all the passes, point where your really not gaining anything with the same implement.
All for demonstration. If efficiency was the goal, I woulda skipped the disk, and went straight to the tiller.
Blows my mind how often the quick hitch doesn't fit most attachments. It's the most non universal, universal quick hitch setup.
With the quick hitch the disk is farther away from the tractor. You may be able to lift the disk without the quick hitch. As for time considerations how much time is lost lifting the disk with the hydraulic top link? Oliver and Case were one of the first lower link "quick hitch" but JD used it on the top link.
Quick hitches are for more significant attachments, the little stuff you can move around. Stop being lazy and hacking up your attachments. WTH!
I agree, quick hitches aren’t useful for small attachments. I can move most of my attachments enough, that I never have any issues hooking up. It doesn’t hurt that everything is stored on a flat concrete surface in a covered barn, so that’s helpful. Plus the quick hitch puts heavy attachments like this even further away, making the 3 point strain to pick it up even more.
Ha!
If the Attachment says Quick Hitch Compatible you want it to be Compatible!
@@markpontes4457 all lies.
@@markpontes4457 yeah right? Artificial sweeteners are safe, weapons of mass destruction’s safe and effective vaccine. Do you believe anything that is said.
To avoid needing a quick hitch, I have five tractors and leave attachments on each tractor. I own a 85 acre vegetable farm in southeastern Ind. The only tractor that uses different attachments is my 573 4/4 cab Massey: ten foot wheel disk, two shank deep ripper, and a 7 shank chisel plow. Last fall, I chiseled everything 7'' deep, then disked and finally ripped everything 24'' deep. The ground dried out faster this spring than any year before. Going to plant taters today. Love your videos, keep them coming...
Thanks for watching and commenting!
The idea of the quick hitch is to simply back up to the implement, raise the 3 point and it is attached. Pat's still means getting off the tractor and hooking up the top link.
I have both. Don't see any saving in time or effort with Pat's. That disk does a nice job. Your videos have helped me a lot in making decisions on purchasing attachments.
Excellent video and editing.
Thanks for the kind words.
3 point hitch was great invention. Unfortunately, it has not been 'improved'. Now, one of the most frustrating parts of a tractor.
L ppl l+
I totally agree with the frustration over newer attachments that don't fit standard quick hitch. The standard has been for years! There is no excuse to be building non-standard for implements. This is why I avoid trying or buying attachments from many manufacturers.
“We have 3 more tractors to break”. Classic, that was funny.
Tim how many pounds is weighing down on each disc?
16 blades…you do the math.
Disking my fields to perfection. Nothing better.
It amazes me how you clearly state this video is to demonstrate different equipment while stating your preference for a rototiller, only to have so many comments about how it's not the proper tool and to use a tiller. Sheesh
Yep. Welcome to my world. Thanks for noticing!
I completely understand that this channel is here to show what these small tractors can do and be pushed to the limits but a tiller beats this in every aspect.
Did you listen? Hmm.
Tilling is not better in every aspect. No pto shaft to maintain (i.e, slipping the clutch every ten days and keeping the shaft lubed) or implement gear box to maintain. Tillers can turn the soil to concrete if you time the weather wrong.
Tim your finance committee is going to take your tractor keys away from you and Dave.
Caught a glimpse of the pond in this video. You are going to have to give us an update.
I broke the same rod on my 2012 Kubota of course it was on a weekend. I made a new part out of a piece of threaded rod and kept on going. That was 6 or 7 years ago and the new piece for 35 bucks from Kubota is in the shop in the package and the treaded rod is still doing the job.
Interesting that they haven't strengthened it in the ensuing years.
From what I saw, pulling a disc with a subcompact tractor beats you to death. You would go slower with the tiller, but wouldn't be jarred so badly. Maybe that's why the tractors kept breaking.
Always good to see you working the hardware and experiencing real life breakdowns. I have a generic QH on my B1709 and the Pats on my B3200. I hardly use the QH due to the top hook issues you have. Now that I know Ken has an extended hook, I may pick one up. My biggest gripe on the Pats is the need to keep the lower arms as tight as possible. If not, the attachments will pop out. Doesn’t matter if it’s the rear blade, box blade or brush cutter in my case. Once that bulb lit for me, I’ve had no issues with my Pats. Hook up issues were solved when I started using carts to easily position my attachments. Like Dave said, it’s either three minutes or 20 minutes to get hooked up. Can’t wait for it to dry out enough here to start working the soil.
Great to see the Kubota even though it broke down. I was wondering if you still had it. Great video thanks Tim.
What a strange thing to break though, the feedback for the valve? How does that happen? Is there marks from a rock or something jammed in it?
I'd like to see team orange a little more often too BTW.
I like it... Cheese Burger Ballast! 😆
DO NOT BUY compact and sub compact John Deere tractors! The driveshafts are exposed and simply driving through a hay field can destroy the driveshafts and trans case! Open and exposed driveshafts with universal joints is garbage. Not to mention non serviceable u-joints! Stay away and buy any other brand!
18:51 Dave sounds like Chris Pratt
I'm having the same issue with my equipment and nothing has the same spacing to use my quick hitch on my tractor. A class 1 should be the same fitting, same with classes 0-1-2-3 a standard needs to be forced period. I have modified everything just to make everything fit my quick hitch and it's a big pain for no reason. Here in US, IH was the only one that made attachments easy for the farmers. Shame on everyone else 😂😂😂.
as a vintage Farmall tractor restorer ( 1941 - 1955) , I'm sitting here seeing the modern version of what Farmall came out with back in the 50s ( Farmall fast hitch)... lolol quick hitching isn't new folks. But yes I think your using a way too small tractor size for what your doing and the size of disc vs tractor. Yes I agree ... bottom plow first then disc . Seems these new tractors aren't built strong enough....I'll stick with my 70-80 year old equipment that doesn't break as easy and has a fast hitch.
After watching this I'm glad both my tractors are vintage. None of this late model.,over priced, over rated and under performing stuff for me.
Tim, as long as you’re modifying the disk why not shorten the other end where the bolt is and drill a new hole. You have the hydraulic top link so it should work.
Yep. That would help.
I wonder if shortening those bars might adjust the angle enough the top pin would be the right height.
I'm one of many people that thought putting the bolt in the bottom hole would work but the geometry on the disc part of the hitch is still terrible.
I suggest spending less than 10k on a 40 year old, 2wd ag tractor in the 50hp plus range. Compacts are nice, but most people don't need a compact or 4wd. A want versus need situation. Old school chains will handle winter needs.
I have one of those 6 ft. angle iron framed disks and it is too light. The most penetration I can get is 4 inches and that requires several passes. I can't adjust the gangs past position #3 without it making the tractor crab terribly. I know some pieces of railroad steel would be ideal to add weight but that ain't gonna happen. I bought a 5 ft. tiller to use after disking and that helped tremendously.
It seems like the Pat's Quick Hitch would have worked much better and would have taken a lot of weight off the 3 point hitch. I use the Pat's after I first heard about it on your channel. I have both old and new attachments and it solves the compatibility problems.
I’m glad you often show the 3R. In my area within 1 hour there is three of I believe 7 John Deere dealers all the same company and they Do Not bring in a 3R open station. Lots of 3E’s but the R’s have cabs and I someday I would like to move up from my 1025r. I refuse to buy a tractor without being able to lay hands on it so the Orange dealer only 5 minutes is looking better. 😩
The 3R open station is amazing tractor! In many ways better than the cab version, especially if you are taller.
@@TractorTimewithTim I would be using it in the woods a lot and I feel a cab would just get in the way.
I don't use my quickhitch anymore. I almost find it easier to hook straight up to 3pt. Also w the 1 series it takes off a bit of weight back there and moves everything marginally closer. I also think the 3 point gives more range of motion.
And I still wonder why the International Harvester 2 point quick attach didn't catch on industry wide. It was way better than any current 3 point quick attach system.
Honey, if you are ridging in the back, you need to raise the back end with your top link. If you have a valley in the back, you need to lower the back end by lengthening your top link. You don't need to change the spacing of the gangs.
Hi Tim if u take quick hitch off u will have more lifting power as it closer to Tractor as it longer way from Tractor less lift power so your 350 kgs will be like 250kg
heck i pull a 6ft disk with my 2305 jd - no problem , heck you was going in at 4 inches what i saw on disk blades
I think you would get better results if you adjust the gangs to the most aggressive cut
I have a farm pro 2420 and run a old 4 foot disc and a Titan 4 foot tiller the only thing I have been tilling my gardens and the surface turns hard with a crust so this year I am disc after I till and hopefully that will stop the soil from having a crust
Another great video. It should have answered or cemented some questions for people that they may or may not have had.
I have a 1025R, it serves my overall purposes based on my 5.5 acres owned. Last year I bought a tiller for it… I LOVE that thing; so much I had even jokingly told the wife that we were gonna have to get a divorce because it was a new love hahaha. I live in west-central IL and some of the nicer weather that has been flirting with us has tempted me to get out and till the gardens, but I know I’d jut have to do it again so why bother.
This video to me should’ve been proof to everyone that…
1) Stick with the same color of attachments that you have for your tractor. Yes, you may some money and supposedly they are universal to be all the same; but this video sorta proves that by sticking with color to color you shouldn’t have any problems because they are designed to work with each other.
2) The video also makes the point to make sure that you have a large enough tractor to do any job for the attachments at hand.
3) Things break. But I can’t help but think that had you done this project with a Frontier brand of tiller you wouldn’t have had any of your issues.
4) Thank you for doing this video. I’ve wondered how using a disc for my gardens would work. I see know that for me anyway, it would be a waste of money. Just going over and creating new with the tiller is the best option. Come over and we’ll fix you a cheeseburger.
5) Lastly, is Dave a hired hand on the farm? I’ve seen him in a few videos helping you now. At first I thought that maybe he was your son but since he wasn’t call Christie mom that answered that question.
Another great video Tim. I’m sorry for your issues, but I think you helped people in an unintentional way.
Thanks for your comment.
Dave works for us a couple of days per week now. We actually showed his wedding last summer in a video.
We met him during our mission trip in Honduras. Fabulous young man. We have a lot of fun together.
Yep, stick with your tiller.
Yep, we like to show all (or most) of the issues we encounter. ...and we encounter lots of fitment issues given all the different stuff we try.
What size was the kubota?
Could you switch the quick hitch from one of the other tractors and kept going?
I have to agree. why have standards if you are not going to follow them. It was good you had back up tractors.
Put some weight on the disc to get it to cut better I use cinder block with a costume basket my 2032r can pick ot up but it's all it wants with the weight
"Time is money" is a silly thing to say when you're using compact equipment in a garden.
I believe Roundup will help that ground dry out quicker, making the disk work easier. Plus you’ll not need as many passes!
That 3 point on the kubota was really flimsy constructed
let's not try sticking hands into tractors with broken parts... sheesh!!
I think you have to plow first, before using the disk.
Just keep saying…The corn will be worth it!
I hate this disc to me this is like a floater discgood for rows of trees. drag behind disc harrow is the way to go
For my Toro 522xi garden tractor I bought two Agri-Fab discs that I will assemble back to back, add a tongue hitch and add its own wheels with a lift. I’m doubtful any sleeve hitch would lift it. The bumps created doing that would show anything loose in your tractors steering system.
Ohhh, I didn't realize you were using a cat.
My disk are at least 50 years old and the only attachment i have to take my quick hitch off but it’s really heavy with railroad iron welded on top
Tim, you have demonstrated your 1025 doing many things that I would thing decreases the life of the unit. How much do you think the hydrostatic and hydraulics life will be reduced? I want to try a 1025 for mostly field and yard mowing. But a bit of loader and garden work. I think anything larger will be a poor choice for me. OE 2025 etc
I don’t think what we do harms the hydrostatic transmission at all.
These machines are made to work.
You already know that disc is too big for that small tractor.
I run a chain for my top link. No reason for that point to be fixed.
Дискование полная ерунда, столько проходов трактором, очень не выгодно.
Breaking stuff for the other half... LMAO
I disagree with using kiwk hitches on these small tractors. People need to understand the math behind using one on a small machine with limited capabilities. The graph of how much you can lift beyond the pins is not linear. For every inch you go beyond the factory pins the multiple goes up for how much you decrease your lifting capacity. Its physics. I'm willing to bet your loosing 20 to 30 percent of your lifting capacity with that quick hitch, if not more.
same goes for the quick hitch on the front for buckets. For every inch out you loose more lifting capacity. 5 percent for the first inch, 10 percent for the scone inch, 20 percent for the third inch..... and a whooping 40 percent for the fourth inch. Again I don't have exact numbers but most don't grasp the concept of it not being linear math.
and we aren't even going to get into the trigonometry on your hydraulic top link. You could really over stress something fast with those. Your changing the shape of the triangle in ways the engineers never designed it to be changed.
I was hoping you would try the harrow without the quick hitch.
We wouldn’t want to agree on EVERYTHING! Life would be boring!
i use pat's on my 2305 jd , get a longer top link
I just added weight until my disc cut full depth in a single pass.
I have a pat's easy change and a 1025r, they have made things easier but the three point arms on a 1025r do NOT move parallel to each other they move in arcs and so depending on the height the arms are closer together or farther apart and if you have the pat's hooks tight to the arms they tilt in or out. The balls in the arms account for this tilting of the arms but pat's hooks do not. I feel like I should have just got the quick hitch. Hopefully I explained it well enough to help others out.
Yep!
Tim, I have always wondered why you pull the release arms on the QH up prior to hooking implement. Any QH I have ever used the locking thumbs on the lower links are angled so when you lift the implement they get pushed in and then come back out locking the implement in place when its engaged and lifted.
same reason I pull up the spring loaded releases on the loader before attaching. It makes the connectivity easier, and sometimes the spring is strong enough to dislodge the attachment, not allowing it to connect properly. I have plenty of issues with the quick hitch as it is...anything I can do to make it smoother, I do.
First off, barely enough cats this video. Please ensure there are more cats next video! Any chance of doing disc harrow vs rototiller results, and is one better? Different? When would I use each? It seems like they kind of do the same thing.
we'll train our cats better next time! yea, LOTS different. Frankly, tiller is a replacement for a disk in my opinion....except in situation with LOTS of rocks.
In Missouri we had rock hard soil in a lot of places. We found a single point ripper a curved one not the new straight things. Run that about every 12 to 16 inches. Then follow with a little single mold board plow or a double. Then disc.in a single winter the soil would get hard enough a tiller didn't want to stay in the ground.
I just fail to see anyway this disk is suitable for the job. It is too heavy for a 1 series and too narrow for a 2 series. That, along with the hitch issues, is not a piece of equipment I would consider. Frontier line is more expensive, but a much better option.
This one is big enough for a 2 series. I think Dave was not estimating properly there.
It would be fine on a 1 series with just a bit of hydraulic pressure increase.
I cringe watching lawn mowers trying to do tractor work, and then wonder why multiple tractors fail. Manufacturers will sell anything for a buck, and many wannabes buy it.
Welcome to our channel! We have enormous amount of fun with these little tractors. …and we get some real work accomplished too! Check out our other videos!
Treadle pedal is a desl breaker. It's to bad the make a good tractor.
With my 1025R and running my offset flail mower, if I use a quick hitch my tractor can't lift the heavy mower (unless I mess around with using my hydraulic 3rd link, but it is still difficult to lift).
When I directly connect my flail mower to the 3-point hitch my 1025R lifts it with no problems.
I would have preferred John Deere gave the 1025R a bit more 3-point lift capacity, but they didn't...
Having said that, I don't find it all that hard to directly attach attachments to my 3-point hitch.
Edit: I should mention I adjusted my hydraulic pressure to the max per my dealer (2000psi +/-100psi). It was set to 1800psi when hot when I bought it.
The only time I find the offset flail mower doesn't lift easily is if I've been working in a dry mud environment, chopping up primarily weeds and mud builds up inside the mower. I find that mowing a few sticks or small trees quickly gets rid of the heavy mud though.
It would work better if you ran it properly.. your using only the front row because your not using it correctly with the lift .. your suppose to set level with top link .. it shouldn’t lift high off the ground .. should be level on ground surface both front and rear row hitting at same time
Hydraulic top link.
Easy to adjust. Dave didn’t get it totally flat each time….but sometimes he did.
Very hard to see ‘flat’ from the seat.
Get rid of that quick hitch and hook disc direct to 1025R and see if it'll lift it, record a short or put in another video I'd be interested in the results!
"We got at least three more tractors we can bust." That's the spirit! I till deep ('21 1025R) as soon as the ground is dry enough and then shallow before I plant because I don't have a disc. Had a HD sub-soiler and a two-bottom plow with my '56 Ford 640 that prepped the gardens initially. Only three Hp more than the 1025R . . . but they were three BIG Hp! I had to cut 4" off my sub-soiler vertical pillar to allow the 1025R to have ground clearance and not just use it as a ground anchor.
tell the story of pats easy change putting a knot in your shorts
So first you say all quick hitches are the same, then show they aren't and complain about each one. They _are_ just a little different, each one...
Nice way to twist words. Oh well.
Totally agree. Not all 3ph attachments are quick hitch compatible, but all quick hitch compatible attachments are 3ph compatible. Why?!?! Absolutely no reason for not standardizing
My wife got a JD 3038e for Mother's Day. I bought her a 5' disc. I have been farming for 50 years. I was shocked at how poorly those little discs preform. She also had a quick hitch and gave up on it. A buddy of mine was messing with his CAT 4 or 5 and crushed his thumb which caused him to spend 5 days in the hospital getting IV antibiotics.
I have a JD 3039R and similar sized disk to what was used for this video. First off, disks are better for bigger areas, tillers are better for smaller areas. This garden is a bit small for a disk because it's tough to get speed and work the ends and corners well. This is what I have found works best in my food plots that get disked annually. First 2-3 passes, low range so 3.5-4 MPH, most aggressive disk gang angle and let the 3 point as low as it goes to allow for the deepest cut available. Next 3-4 passes, minimal disk gang angle, changing my approach angle to the field, mid range 7-8 MPH keeping the disk up a bit. This tends to level and throw the dirt. When I say throw the dirt, I mean across the faces of the other disks and to the outside. This provides great mixing, especially when trying to mix lime in to a food plot. If the soil hasn't been worked for more than a year, it needs to be ploughed first with a moldboard plough.
I have only thought of a disk to follow a plow, to smooth out what the plow does. I would of used a tiller on this job set to 3 inches. It would tear up everything and go quite fast at that depth. (I realize that the goal was to see what the disk would do)
Just skip the plow. Till it with rototiller a few times and go! If you are able to plan ahead, spray with roundup, wait two weeks, then till it. Even better, spray and till in the fall, till again in spring.
The plow, while lots of fun is simply a waste in my opinion. Hate to say that, as I LOVE to operate a plow!
Guessing just having a heavy duty tractor( one) does make a difference. That’s what I did after buying three tractors.but you should have a small one. Just can’t do with one. After 18 years I ended up with the 1025r.
Am I wrong in assuming that disc is probably as much as a tiller? Do you think there is any benefit to using the disc over tilling?
Personally, no.
The only potential is in very rocky soil.
if you are going to use a tractor that small,,, use a tiller
Always have wanted to see what a power harrow would do on a subcompact tractor? Have you tested one of those on your channel? They look like vertical tillers kinda
Ever Seen a Power Harrow? Planting Sweet Corn in Garden!
th-cam.com/video/2LiH8VlG78Y/w-d-xo.html
So is jack black a relative? Family member? Farm hand? I think I missed the episode of when he first joined
Ya gotta keep up :-)
Check out this video:
Deere 3R Front Axle Seal Leak Fix, John Deere 3033R/3039R/3046R!
th-cam.com/video/eWCiSsTV0ws/w-d-xo.html
If you said it, I missed it. Did Tractor Basics list this disc as quick hitch capable?
I helped on our farm last year with discing… in a JD8960… Tractor didn’t break but the disc did haha, much bigger disc though.
Hello, What is the width of the unit you are showing in your video? 60 inch or 72 inch or ?????
60
Top link is too short and some weights need to be put on the disk
Try this for an alternative. Move the brackets up to the top hole and then put a second bolt (with sleeve if provided) in the bottom hole for the quick hitch. That angles the brackets like you want and maybe solves some of your problems with the quick hitch.
hilarious. Please watch the prior episode. th-cam.com/video/v6ILnETxI7Q/w-d-xo.html ...and read some of the comments on it.
Exactly what I was thinking.
Dave looks like he's riding a bucking bronco! My flail weighs 750 pounds, I really don't think I could hook it up to the tractor without the quick hitch. No way I can maneuver it a little this way, a little that way.
Have I missed a video or has it just been a long time since you’ve had the Kubota on the channel? Ps jd fan just curious!
Been a long time.
Were you able to determine why the "bolt" broke on the LX3310 ? I have one. Thought I may need to keep an eye on it.
dunno. Got the replacement today. Have not yet fixed.