Jason, Thanks for the work on my board, and the video. You got the video up while the board is in transit to me so we all get to wait to see if it works. I should have mentioned the big pad. When I got the new chips and saw the pad, I realized I need professional help.
For someone who works on laptops a lot here, that looked very painful for you. Quick lesson for QFP with ground pad: From a clean board, do not fluff the edge pads leave them flat, float the chip down onto the ground pad first, this way you can align the pins perfectly with a slight tap and get a good ground pad connection. Since you where already going to do manual soldering of the pins, fluffing the pads was not needed.
I wish i could give a bigger thumbs up. You do great work Jason.. thanks for doing some giant stuff for us too, and yeah at 200x magnification that chip looks a little skewed, but to the naked eye I'll bet it's perfectly fine.. I'd lose sleep over it as well though haha!
Jason, I used to watch Rossmann religiously until I couldn't take his pseudoscientific rants and how he became a NYC real estate magnate got to me. Your videos are way more lucid, and you dispense spot-on methodology while you do your repairs, pertinent to someone as myself who is waaaaay less experienced than you and your subscribership. Thank you!
I've replaced a few of these a different way. I used a 3mm Dremel diamond ball burr and a microscope like yours, and carefully slowly erode away the black epoxy case down right down to the center copper heat sink (grinding the silicon die off of it in the process), then directly desoldered it and the left over loose legs. To resolder the hidden heatsink I have been lucky enough to have access to the chips thermal pads via's from below the board so I've flowed solder through them successfully. Love your channel, keep it up.
Thanks! I don't think it gets any safer than what described here. I've been thinking of getting a CNC for doing this with cellphone ICs. Most of them I can do by hand now but there's better methods can make jobs more fail-safe -- to where heat high enough to melt lead-free solder is never used.
The simplest way I found to do it is to get a copper cube of the same cross section as the thermal pad of the chip or a bit bigger, set it on an electric heating plate cranked all the way up, put some thermal insulation around the cube so the rest of the board doesn’t get all the radiant and convective heat, dump flux on top of the cube for thermal contact. Once the flux is bubbling, put the board upside down with the chip laying on the cube. It will heat up quickly and slink off the board onto the cube. With some practice it takes just seconds. I wouldn’t do it with BGAs but power things with leads and a power pad are good with that method. This is only OK to do with chips that are bad as it thermally shocks them so not good for chip harvesting I don’t think.
Well on that type of ICs after floating on place you should just press on top of it until you are using the heat gun and it will go flat to the board with the right amount of solder in the middle. Then you just remove the bridges if there are any (cased by excess solder) and you don't even need to do solder legs on by one. Just check them if they are solid. :)
I'm surprised they were able to get those chips! 😳 Hey, Jason, the chips not aligned! There, I said it.😂 Does it really matter? As long as there are no bridges, and it works, who cares. I know we should strive to do our best though. 😉
Way better printers for 1/3 the price... and this is coming from a massive fan of everything Dremel. I looked at the Dremel printer pretty seriously but ultimately went with Anycubic Kobra Plus'
@@ststelethe Dremel is essentially a Utimaker rebadged and a few hundred dollars more. If you are looking for a reliable, budget... and above all Quiet printer that is a rocket? Go with the Anycubic Kobra series. I have 2 Kobra Plus machines and they are beautiful fdm printers. People who buy Utimaker's or worse.. Dremel printers have money to burn lol
I agree based on specs vs price for a current purchase. These printers have been around since 2018 and back then the features were good for the price. They make great hand-me-down printers for first-time users. For those interested, we have a different approach to printers. We run a fleet of all kinds of printers in a very small company. One of the real issues with 3d printing is quantity. Its hard to maintain a large fleet for the occasional need to make lots of parts at once. We do that by managing printers in the cloud and distributing our printers to people. Every employee has a printer at home and office. Any friends, neighbors, kids get free printers from us. This way our fleet is always warm and physically near someone, rather than sitting cold in a facility waiting to be used. The Dremel sits in my fancy kitchen so we keep these printers around for looks as much as utility.
15:28 thanks for the heads up on that R0.1 x 6mm conical tip for the micro pencil Jason, its great for Macbook display connectors and these type of packages17:10 parallax error dudes. Get over it 😀
Hey Jason are you guys all ok? Was there any damage to your house with the 7.6 magnitude earthquake that happened just as you were soddering that chip to the board. 🤭 (Sorry, just couldn't resist and my soldering skills are really pushing it just plugging the iron into the power outlet. 😏) Nice job which must have been made difficult due to the size that your aren't used to working on. 👍👍
When you solder chips with center pin for heat dissipation, just squeeze with tweezers when you are heating up and clean up later with soldering iron. Don't be afraid, nothing happens, go confident 😄
Well done :-D Yes you did put the chip on a fraction of an atom off. 😀 Sloppy accuracy :) Hopefully the owner did find the original fault, shorted stepper motor?.
Thanks! There is a long pause I removed where I realized the chip was crooked. These days I'm just learning to accept such atrocities. 🙂 I hope the original fault is solved or a non-fault!
Enjoy your videos as long as it works that's what counts... I seen some other content creators and what they do is they just take their iron put some solder on the tip and start in the corner and just bring the tip of their iron across with a little ball of solder across gently rake it and cleaning off your tip a few times they make it look so easy I've tried it and it works well... Stop being stingy with your Flex it's your friend lol...
That IC seems a bit small to drive a stepper motor directly. More likely that IC may send signals to a driver IC for the motor. Just my guess. Have a great weekend.
9.50.... ohh man that was a mistake, luckily no pad just pop out... no tools under ic.... it need more heat, like 400 to 430... cover plastic, and cond. pre heat all around using air a bit far away circular moves, 1 min -\+ go strate to the ic and take out. :) kkkkkk small board like telefone pre heat very fast and is easy to remove bga, big board its the same but need more heat and more time, sometimes you need a preheater under the board to help. cheers :)
there is easier way before heating the center ground pad just tack solder 2 legs opposite corner after perfectly line up those fingers then itll stay aligned this way more professional looks
That is a trinamic stepper driver and yeah replacing it should be good they do blow out like that quite quite often it's not the stepper motor they rarely ever cause any issues as they are built to handle just about anything you can throw at them and very high heat there is no electronics in the stepper motor only windings. I replace those trinamic drivers all the time I have many printers that use them
Poor soldering of the SMD chip with a thermal pad on the bottom. Uneven positioning during soldering and it was necessary to tin the chip itself too. Author, look at the wave soldering method, then you won’t have to solder the microcircuit leads with a soldering iron tip more than one at a time (in this case, there is a high probability of solder bridges).
Hey your chip was off by a couple of microns! I'm unsubscribing! :D BTW you could have looked at the replacement chips instead of guessing whether the one on the board had a central pad ;) Thanks for sharing!
If it works, it works. :) But in my experience you're making it really hard on yourself. Have you considered drag soldering? Look at this, it's beautifull! th-cam.com/video/nyele3CIs-U/w-d-xo.html
Jason, Thanks for the work on my board, and the video. You got the video up while the board is in transit to me so we all get to wait to see if it works. I should have mentioned the big pad. When I got the new chips and saw the pad, I realized I need professional help.
Thank you! I'm hoping to hear of success!🙏
@@ststele SUCCESS! it arrived yesterday and I'm printing today. Thank you for the help and the quick work too
Woohoo! Thank you for letting me know. I'm really glad to hear it's working!
thank you its nice to hear the end of a story even better to know its working
You are the person who got me into Mobile phone soldering repairs as an added-value service so thank you
Thanks 🙏 I didn't recognize you at first because of the way TH-cam displays handles now but I don't forget profile pics! 🙂
For someone who works on laptops a lot here, that looked very painful for you.
Quick lesson for QFP with ground pad:
From a clean board, do not fluff the edge pads leave them flat, float the chip down onto the ground pad first, this way you can align the pins perfectly with a slight tap and get a good ground pad connection. Since you where already going to do manual soldering of the pins, fluffing the pads was not needed.
I really need one of those magnifying work station things, trying to troubleshoot some quadcopters boards is practically impossible without them
Good to see new content again bro! Like watching you fix stuff. Thanks!
Thank you! More to come!
I wish i could give a bigger thumbs up. You do great work Jason.. thanks for doing some giant stuff for us too, and yeah at 200x magnification that chip looks a little skewed, but to the naked eye I'll bet it's perfectly fine.. I'd lose sleep over it as well though haha!
Lol, thanks. Yep, I still beat myself up over this one. Although I'm sure the printer is still going strong.
Jason, I used to watch Rossmann religiously until I couldn't take his pseudoscientific rants and how he became a NYC real estate magnate got to me. Your videos are way more lucid, and you dispense spot-on methodology while you do your repairs, pertinent to someone as myself who is waaaaay less experienced than you and your subscribership. Thank you!
But Rossmann never became any sort of a real estate magnate… If anything, he was the very opposite of a real estate magnate.
I've replaced a few of these a different way. I used a 3mm Dremel diamond ball burr and a microscope like yours, and carefully slowly erode away the black epoxy case down right down to the center copper heat sink (grinding the silicon die off of it in the process), then directly desoldered it and the left over loose legs. To resolder the hidden heatsink I have been lucky enough to have access to the chips thermal pads via's from below the board so I've flowed solder through them successfully. Love your channel, keep it up.
Thanks! I don't think it gets any safer than what described here. I've been thinking of getting a CNC for doing this with cellphone ICs. Most of them I can do by hand now but there's better methods can make jobs more fail-safe -- to where heat high enough to melt lead-free solder is never used.
The simplest way I found to do it is to get a copper cube of the same cross section as the thermal pad of the chip or a bit bigger, set it on an electric heating plate cranked all the way up, put some thermal insulation around the cube so the rest of the board doesn’t get all the radiant and convective heat, dump flux on top of the cube for thermal contact. Once the flux is bubbling, put the board upside down with the chip laying on the cube. It will heat up quickly and slink off the board onto the cube. With some practice it takes just seconds. I wouldn’t do it with BGAs but power things with leads and a power pad are good with that method. This is only OK to do with chips that are bad as it thermally shocks them so not good for chip harvesting I don’t think.
I was screaming the hole time, "that thing is crooked" !!! Oh well it will work! On another note I have a Ipad to send you!
Well on that type of ICs after floating on place you should just press on top of it until you are using the heat gun and it will go flat to the board with the right amount of solder in the middle. Then you just remove the bridges if there are any (cased by excess solder) and you don't even need to do solder legs on by one. Just check them if they are solid. :)
I'm surprised they were able to get those chips! 😳
Hey, Jason, the chips not aligned! There, I said it.😂 Does it really matter? As long as there are no bridges, and it works, who cares. I know we should strive to do our best though. 😉
Way better printers for 1/3 the price... and this is coming from a massive fan of everything Dremel. I looked at the Dremel printer pretty seriously but ultimately went with Anycubic Kobra Plus'
My son was losing his mind when he looked up this printer and said the same thing. I don't know much about them!
@@ststelethe Dremel is essentially a Utimaker rebadged and a few hundred dollars more. If you are looking for a reliable, budget... and above all Quiet printer that is a rocket? Go with the Anycubic Kobra series. I have 2 Kobra Plus machines and they are beautiful fdm printers. People who buy Utimaker's or worse.. Dremel printers have money to burn lol
I agree based on specs vs price for a current purchase. These printers have been around since 2018 and back then the features were good for the price. They make great hand-me-down printers for first-time users. For those interested, we have a different approach to printers. We run a fleet of all kinds of printers in a very small company. One of the real issues with 3d printing is quantity. Its hard to maintain a large fleet for the occasional need to make lots of parts at once. We do that by managing printers in the cloud and distributing our printers to people. Every employee has a printer at home and office. Any friends, neighbors, kids get free printers from us. This way our fleet is always warm and physically near someone, rather than sitting cold in a facility waiting to be used. The Dremel sits in my fancy kitchen so we keep these printers around for looks as much as utility.
Glad to see you back by the way
Again thank you very much this is an awesome exhibition on your part. I can’t say that about other TH-camrs
15:28 thanks for the heads up on that R0.1 x 6mm conical tip for the micro pencil Jason, its great for Macbook display connectors and these type of packages17:10 parallax error dudes. Get over it 😀
Hey Jason are you guys all ok? Was there any damage to your house with the 7.6 magnitude earthquake that happened just as you were soddering that chip to the board. 🤭 (Sorry, just couldn't resist and my soldering skills are really pushing it just plugging the iron into the power outlet. 😏)
Nice job which must have been made difficult due to the size that your aren't used to working on. 👍👍
Man, those Egyptians had pretty cool tech to avoid to pop the caps!
YEA, a Jason video!
Good to see you back more often. BTW that chip was really crooked! Haha
Jason....as always.....nicely done. I'm enjoying your videos!
Thanks 👍
When you solder chips with center pin for heat dissipation, just squeeze with tweezers when you are heating up and clean up later with soldering iron.
Don't be afraid, nothing happens, go confident 😄
Same happened on my BigTreeTech E3 Mini. Stepper motor driver chip.
Well done :-D
Yes you did put the chip on a fraction of an atom off. 😀
Sloppy accuracy :)
Hopefully the owner did find the original fault, shorted stepper motor?.
Thanks! There is a long pause I removed where I realized the chip was crooked. These days I'm just learning to accept such atrocities. 🙂
I hope the original fault is solved or a non-fault!
Interesting video Jason.Thanks for the upload. Love your channel. 👍
Unbelievably hard. Not for amateurs like me!
Enjoy your videos as long as it works that's what counts...
I seen some other content creators and what they do is they just take their iron put some solder on the tip and start in the corner and just bring the tip of their iron across with a little ball of solder across gently rake it and cleaning off your tip a few times they make it look so easy I've tried it and it works well...
Stop being stingy with your Flex it's your friend lol...
I usually check the pads for shorts when the part is removed, ie, could be something else that caused it.
While waiting for this customer phone receive the board and test, I was REALLY wishing I would have done that! Thankfully all is well!
I was half-expecting to see a spider or something come out of that hole in the IC!
I just didn't have enoughy light+zoom. No telling what may have been hiding in there! 😁
@@ststele Yeah! Ya never know! Thanks for the video! Fellow ham here also
Flux more flux more flux. Flux is your friend to help the movement of solder. Watching to much Alex north ridge fix. Your awsome with your repairs..👍
Hey, hey, hey Jason. Your chip is crooked
🤣🤣
Great job!
Do you take details photos of these 'special' boards B4 U start - just incase?
Many of them I do. Especially if I notice something that could be blamed on me.
Jason for the thumbnail you should have wore a tinfoil hat hahah 😆
That IC seems a bit small to drive a stepper motor directly. More likely that IC may send signals to a driver IC for the motor. Just my guess. Have a great weekend.
If I looked right those are TMC5130 chips. 2A RMS 2.5A peak / coil. RDSon 0.5 Ohm
@@LimbaZero
It may be, I didn't get a good look but I'll try again later.
9.50.... ohh man that was a mistake, luckily no pad just pop out... no tools under ic.... it need more heat, like 400 to 430... cover plastic, and cond. pre heat all around using air a bit far away circular moves, 1 min -\+ go strate to the ic and take out. :) kkkkkk small board like telefone pre heat very fast and is easy to remove bga, big board its the same but need more heat and more time, sometimes you need a preheater under the board to help. cheers :)
hello mr jason, stay safe
Thanks u too!
there is easier way before heating the center ground pad just tack solder 2 legs opposite corner after perfectly line up those fingers then itll stay aligned this way more professional looks
hi steve what about my washing machine lol 😁
since you so nicely asked us to tell you, hay that chip is crooked and is off by a couple of by a few um
Hello sir do you repair only iPhone or all phone sir
That is a trinamic stepper driver and yeah replacing it should be good they do blow out like that quite quite often it's not the stepper motor they rarely ever cause any issues as they are built to handle just about anything you can throw at them and very high heat there is no electronics in the stepper motor only windings. I replace those trinamic drivers all the time I have many printers that use them
Jason, you're off by a couple microns!
Very nice
Bigger iron and drag solder the pins
When is the next one mate?
5160s are the most expensive drivers by an order of magnitude
These days all of us are off by a couple of microns !
This job is more easy whit pro heater... Set 150c and whit little air whit gun its more easy and safe
Please Bro, why not more☎ phone repair vids being posted?
Heya well that is something new to flood lol
Don't think anyone noticed that chip was off by a mile? Place it on clean pads next time, only pre-tin center. 2/5 performance.
Hey intern, can you fix this???
Great timing butthead I was watching a iPhone 6 repair at 1am
Omg iPhone 6! 😱
I still work on them too. Lol
Poor soldering of the SMD chip with a thermal pad on the bottom. Uneven positioning during soldering and it was necessary to tin the chip itself too. Author, look at the wave soldering method, then you won’t have to solder the microcircuit leads with a soldering iron tip more than one at a time (in this case, there is a high probability of solder bridges).
Jason, your alignment is off by a couple of microns.
Person 386 checking in ;)
there's a hole, there's a hole, a hole in the top of the chip
Yar, she be krookt!
Come on man. You should have straightened that chip. Lol
I'm still living with this. :-|
@@ststele lol
Sir, your chip is off by a couple of microns. D: har har har
Lol. Mmmmmhmmmm yip
without proper solder, ic gonna suffer from high temp.
I'm not the slightest bit worried about high temp for this IC. I'd not be surprised to find it actually runs cooler than the 3 with lead-free solder.
Ehh you are 75% on the pads lol IPC 610 standards say that is acceptable for class 1 electronics
"promo sm"
Hey your chip was off by a couple of microns! I'm unsubscribing! :D
BTW you could have looked at the replacement chips instead of guessing whether the one on the board had a central pad ;)
Thanks for sharing!
If it works, it works. :) But in my experience you're making it really hard on yourself. Have you considered drag soldering? Look at this, it's beautifull! th-cam.com/video/nyele3CIs-U/w-d-xo.html
Omg butthead you made this so much harder than what it was, when using kapton and aluminum foil you can cause more damage as that’ll leave a channel