Fantastic restoration. I had one of these, bought new in 1975. Loved that bike, never gave me any trouble, oh apart from a broken clutch cable once. I believe that’s an American spec bike, high bars and reflectors on the sides of the oil cooler.
Hi Chris. Great video: the bike looks beautiful. Sorry to hear that you're feeling a bit stressed at present; I hope that things soon get resolved for you.
Thanks, Kevin, it's just one of those times when everything's getting on top of me a bit, but hopefully things will start to smooth out again before too long. Appreciated.
A contender for the prettiest bike ever made. I am currently rebuilding my T160 after it threw a rod at 70 MPH. Engine cases are as rare as honest politicians, but I was fortunate to find an expert TIG welder who could sort out the damage. Other parts, and I needed a great number of them, are readily available.
Good luck with the carb issue. Had a similar problem with both of my T150's. Just off idle and a slight flat spot. Very very annoying when pulling away both with old original Amals with new jets floats etc and new Premiers and no combination of pilot jet, needle position, slide cutaway, float height would cure it. Fitted different carbs (Keihin on one and Mikuni on the other) and now both run great.
The neutral indicator proximity sensor kit is from Triples Unlimited (based in Greece!) I generally buy my LED bulbs from Paul Goff (Mr Grumpy) who whilst being slightly irascible knows everything there is to know about LED bulbs etc.
Rough pickup just off the throttle stops is more likely to do with the slide cutaways. Running Concentrics without an air filter will make the mixture leaner. You need less cutaway on the slides.
@@Chris.rooke150 You think or you know you have 3.5 cutaways? This problem occurs with the engine fully warmed up, right? Ignition timing and tappet clearances are correct? The bike ticks over fine? The carbs are in balance? Without going to the expense of buying new slides with even less cutaway you could experiment with lowering the CHOKE slides to mimic that effect at very small throttle openings. It will help if you can see into the carb throat to confirm the position of choke slide relative to throttle slide. Removing one bell mouth should enable you to peer in. The engine obviously needs to be fully warmed up. Experiment with the choke slides down at those small throttle openings - ie just off the throttle stops. If you note any improvement you need slides with smaller cutaways.
I've definitely got smaller throttle slide cutaways in the carbs as I put them in - I can just never remember which is smaller and which is bigger! (Now I have locked it in - the bigger the number, the bigger the cutaway) I replaced them myself along with larger pilot jets (19s instead of 17s. I also have some 21s that I might try as I've still not cured the problem). I've also tried raising the needle heights, re-setting the float heights and re-synchronising the carbs, all to no avail. I've also changed the inlet rubbers and carb to gantry O rings - no change. Applying the choke on whilst riding does seem to help but it's hard to be accurate and also to know if it's curing or masking the problem. I was hoping to put the bike on a rolling road this Summer to see if it was running lean at those revs so at least I would have had proof if it is running too lean, but for various reasons that never happened. Note that my T150V ran perfectly from day one with no adjustments at all, also fitted with open bellmouths. 🤔🤔🤔
@@Chris.rooke150 "Applying the choke on whilst riding does seem to help ... " Aha! And this happens at the throttle opening where the problem exists. ie small throttle opening when you're just burbling along? Definitely slide cutaways then - they have an influence on the mixture up to a quarter throttle but that influence gets more pronounced the further the throttle is closed. Each device in the carb overlaps to an extent: Amal -The Basics (version 5.0 July 2013) Five Stages Of An Amal Carburetor: Stage one: Idle to just off idle Pilot air screw and pilot jet To change: Adjust pilot screw or replace pilot jet Stage two: 0 to 1/4 Throttle Slide cutaway #2 Rich to #4 Lean To change: Replace slide - change needle jet Stage three: 1/8 to 1/3 Throttle Needle Jet To change: Replace - change needle jet Stage four: 1/4 to 3/4 Throttle Needle and Needle jet combination To change: Raise - Lower Needle or replace needle Stage five: 3/4 to Full Throttle Main Jet To change: Replace main jet. Furthermore: Before you start tuning be sure of the following: • New plugs, points and condenser (if used) are installed, adjusted, and timing set • Valves are adjusted and the bike passes a compression test. • If one is installed, the air cleaner is clean. • Factory recommended jets are installed and are not worn or damaged. • The gas cap vent is clear and there are no air leaks in the intake manifold. • The fuel taps, fuel line, fuel filter and fuel connections will flow enough gasoline. • You know how to operate the choke. It's a time-consuming process to set up Concentrics, or indeed any Amal carb, especially if you're running them differently to the factory specs. In your case you've ditched the airbox, right? Another thought I just had - is the exhaust standard? And another thought - has the head been worked on, flowed, ported, whatever? Are they standard 27mm Concentrics? If I was you, I'd make absolutely sure you have the correct information for those carbs for your particularlr bike: jet sizes, needle position, slide cutaway size etc and put everything back to it's original state (excluding the airbox obviously) and work from there. Assuming the motor is fairly bog standard and at operating temperature, start with getting the tickover right using whatever size pilot jets and slide cutaways are quoted for your machine and with the air screws backed off 2-2.5 turns from their seats. Getting the air screws right is not easy, especially on a triple, but quite crucial to the initial pickup from the throttle stops. It's relatively easy on a single or twin. The idle mixture is extremely sensitive to even minute changes in air screw settings. So, you're juggling with the throttle stops and air screws with the aim of getting an even tickover at the lowest rpm possible. Once you have a healthy, steady, beefy-sounding, tickover at the lowest rpm possible, raise the stops to give the required tickover speed. This is a good base setting but you may even need to make more minute adjustments to the air screws at this point. Everything should follow on from there. If with standard needle jet, needle position and slide cutaway (did you say 4 was the standard slide? - sounds unlikely to me) the motor stills misbehaves at low throttle openings, go back to the 3.5 cutaways. If that doesn't improve matters go to 3 cutaways. Or 2.5s and sand them back on a sheet of plate glass to your requirements - NOT RECOMMENDED unless you know what you're doing ! As above, 4 cutaways give weaker mix at small throttle openings and 2 cutaways give a richer mix. Don't quote me on this but from memory the cutaway size relates to the highest point of the cut in 1/32 of a inch - hence #2 cutaway = 1.5875 mm ; #4 cutaway = 3.175 mm. It would be very unusual to need to deviate from standard settings for needle jet size and needle position unless the motor has been heavily modified. As I say, I think you need to pay particular attention to air screw settings (with standard pilot jets) and then blend the carburation up to quarter throttle via the slide cutaway size. I doubt you ever run the bike at full throttle but without an air filter you'll want main jets that are, maybe, 5% larger than standard. Good luck !
Great looking bike .Is the frame the same as the T150 ? I see you have both bikes ,Is there a difference in handling or general riding? As far as heat goes I do most of my riding in winter here in Queensland,though we are having a unusually cold snap here now. Cheers
You know, I'm not entirely sure! The two frames are basically the same, but I don't know if they're identical - maybe the steering head angles are different???? I am fairly sure though, that the T160 has a longer swinging arm than the T150, to give it a slightly longer wheelbase. Both bikes are very similar in terms of riding and handling, but each with its own subtle differences and quirks.
Hi Chris. I fitted new premiers to my T160. They came with 17 pilot jets and I have the same issue and was thinking of getting 19’s. Did you try the 21’s or 15’s? Love all your videos Cheers Jeff
Hi Jeff. I have bought 21 pilot jets but haven't got round to fitting them yet, so not sure if they'll cure the problem. I was also considering trying raising the needles a notch as the needle height/needle jets also affects fuelling at that throttle opening.
hi when you cleaned the t160 zenor diode up, did you use thermal paste to put it back together, you didn't mention that, maybe it doesn't matter. i didn't either. love your vids btw.
Hi there. I didn't use thermal paste on it at all. I did later convert the bike to a modern combined rectifier/regulator unit though as it works much better, but I left the Zener diode in place for looks
In my opinion, the T160v is the most beautiful motorbike ever created!
It simply ticks all the boxes
Lovely example, stunning. Sounds just glorious!
The triple definitely has a unique sound.
Fantastic restoration. I had one of these, bought new in 1975. Loved that bike, never gave me any trouble, oh apart from a broken clutch cable once. I believe that’s an American spec bike, high bars and reflectors on the sides of the oil cooler.
Hi Chris. Great video: the bike looks beautiful. Sorry to hear that you're feeling a bit stressed at present; I hope that things soon get resolved for you.
Thanks, Kevin, it's just one of those times when everything's getting on top of me a bit, but hopefully things will start to smooth out again before too long. Appreciated.
A contender for the prettiest bike ever made. I am currently rebuilding my T160 after it threw a rod at 70 MPH. Engine cases are as rare as honest politicians, but I was fortunate to find an expert TIG welder who could sort out the damage. Other parts, and I needed a great number of them, are readily available.
Good one my mate in wa had a similar fate low miler beautiful. But rode it hard and unfortunately didn't have both fuel taps on and threw a rod
Beautiful Bike Chris .
Thanks, Dale. 👍
@@Chris.rooke150 Happy Birthday by the way.
Good luck with the carb issue. Had a similar problem with both of my T150's. Just off idle and a slight flat spot. Very very annoying when pulling away both with old original Amals with new jets floats etc and new Premiers and no combination of pilot jet, needle position, slide cutaway, float height would cure it.
Fitted different carbs (Keihin on one and Mikuni on the other) and now both run great.
The really annoying thing is that I have the same set up on my T150 and it's perfect! 🤔🤔🤔
hi chris, i own a t160, and see you have fitted a proximity centre nuetral switch, where do you buy them from? also which led lighting do you use,
The neutral indicator proximity sensor kit is from Triples Unlimited (based in Greece!) I generally buy my LED bulbs from Paul Goff (Mr Grumpy) who whilst being slightly irascible knows everything there is to know about LED bulbs etc.
Rough pickup just off the throttle stops is more likely to do with the slide cutaways. Running Concentrics without an air filter will make the mixture leaner. You need less cutaway on the slides.
I already have no 4 throttle slides fitted, as opposed to the original 3 1/2 ones.
I already have smaller cutaway throttle slides fitted. No 3 1/2 rather than the standard no 4, I think.
@@Chris.rooke150 You think or you know you have 3.5 cutaways? This problem occurs with the engine fully warmed up, right? Ignition timing and tappet clearances are correct? The bike ticks over fine? The carbs are in balance?
Without going to the expense of buying new slides with even less cutaway you could experiment with lowering the CHOKE slides to mimic that effect at very small throttle openings. It will help if you can see into the carb throat to confirm the position of choke slide relative to throttle slide. Removing one bell mouth should enable you to peer in.
The engine obviously needs to be fully warmed up. Experiment with the choke slides down at those small throttle openings - ie just off the throttle stops. If you note any improvement you need slides with smaller cutaways.
I've definitely got smaller throttle slide cutaways in the carbs as I put them in - I can just never remember which is smaller and which is bigger! (Now I have locked it in - the bigger the number, the bigger the cutaway) I replaced them myself along with larger pilot jets (19s instead of 17s. I also have some 21s that I might try as I've still not cured the problem). I've also tried raising the needle heights, re-setting the float heights and re-synchronising the carbs, all to no avail. I've also changed the inlet rubbers and carb to gantry O rings - no change. Applying the choke on whilst riding does seem to help but it's hard to be accurate and also to know if it's curing or masking the problem. I was hoping to put the bike on a rolling road this Summer to see if it was running lean at those revs so at least I would have had proof if it is running too lean, but for various reasons that never happened. Note that my T150V ran perfectly from day one with no adjustments at all, also fitted with open bellmouths. 🤔🤔🤔
@@Chris.rooke150 "Applying the choke on whilst riding does seem to help ... "
Aha! And this happens at the throttle opening where the problem exists. ie small throttle opening when you're just burbling along? Definitely slide cutaways then - they have an influence on the mixture up to a quarter throttle but that influence gets more pronounced the further the throttle is closed. Each device in the carb overlaps to an extent:
Amal -The Basics (version 5.0 July 2013)
Five Stages Of An Amal Carburetor:
Stage one: Idle to just off idle Pilot air screw and pilot jet To change: Adjust pilot screw or replace pilot jet
Stage two: 0 to 1/4 Throttle Slide cutaway #2 Rich to #4 Lean To change: Replace slide - change needle jet
Stage three: 1/8 to 1/3 Throttle Needle Jet To change: Replace - change needle jet
Stage four: 1/4 to 3/4 Throttle Needle and Needle jet combination To change: Raise - Lower Needle or replace needle
Stage five: 3/4 to Full Throttle Main Jet To change: Replace main jet.
Furthermore: Before you start tuning be sure of the following:
• New plugs, points and condenser (if used) are installed, adjusted, and timing set
• Valves are adjusted and the bike passes a compression test.
• If one is installed, the air cleaner is clean.
• Factory recommended jets are installed and are not worn or damaged.
• The gas cap vent is clear and there are no air leaks in the intake manifold.
• The fuel taps, fuel line, fuel filter and fuel connections will flow enough gasoline.
• You know how to operate the choke.
It's a time-consuming process to set up Concentrics, or indeed any Amal carb, especially if you're running them differently to the factory specs. In your case you've ditched the airbox, right? Another thought I just had - is the exhaust standard? And another thought - has the head been worked on, flowed, ported, whatever? Are they standard 27mm Concentrics?
If I was you, I'd make absolutely sure you have the correct information for those carbs for your particularlr bike: jet sizes, needle position, slide cutaway size etc and put everything back to it's original state (excluding the airbox obviously) and work from there.
Assuming the motor is fairly bog standard and at operating temperature, start with getting the tickover right using whatever size pilot jets and slide cutaways are quoted for your machine and with the air screws backed off 2-2.5 turns from their seats. Getting the air screws right is not easy, especially on a triple, but quite crucial to the initial pickup from the throttle stops. It's relatively easy on a single or twin.
The idle mixture is extremely sensitive to even minute changes in air screw settings.
So, you're juggling with the throttle stops and air screws with the aim of getting an even tickover at the lowest rpm possible. Once you have a healthy, steady, beefy-sounding, tickover at the lowest rpm possible, raise the stops to give the required tickover speed. This is a good base setting but you may even need to make more minute adjustments to the air screws at this point.
Everything should follow on from there. If with standard needle jet, needle position and slide cutaway (did you say 4 was the standard slide? - sounds unlikely to me) the motor stills misbehaves at low throttle openings, go back to the 3.5 cutaways. If that doesn't improve matters go to 3 cutaways. Or 2.5s and sand them back on a sheet of plate glass to your requirements - NOT RECOMMENDED unless you know what you're doing ! As above, 4 cutaways give weaker mix at small throttle openings and 2 cutaways give a richer mix. Don't quote me on this but from memory the cutaway size relates to the highest point of the cut in 1/32 of a inch - hence #2 cutaway = 1.5875 mm ; #4 cutaway = 3.175 mm.
It would be very unusual to need to deviate from standard settings for needle jet size and needle position unless the motor has been heavily modified. As I say, I think you need to pay particular attention to air screw settings (with standard pilot jets) and then blend the carburation up to quarter throttle via the slide cutaway size.
I doubt you ever run the bike at full throttle but without an air filter you'll want main jets that are, maybe, 5% larger than standard.
Good luck !
Great looking bike .Is the frame the same as the T150 ? I see you have both bikes ,Is there a difference in handling or general riding? As far as heat goes I do most of my riding in winter here in Queensland,though we are having a unusually cold snap here now.
Cheers
You know, I'm not entirely sure! The two frames are basically the same, but I don't know if they're identical - maybe the steering head angles are different???? I am fairly sure though, that the T160 has a longer swinging arm than the T150, to give it a slightly longer wheelbase. Both bikes are very similar in terms of riding and handling, but each with its own subtle differences and quirks.
Hi Chris. I fitted new premiers to my T160. They came with 17 pilot jets and I have the same issue and was thinking of getting 19’s. Did you try the 21’s or 15’s?
Love all your videos
Cheers Jeff
Hi Jeff. I have bought 21 pilot jets but haven't got round to fitting them yet, so not sure if they'll cure the problem. I was also considering trying raising the needles a notch as the needle height/needle jets also affects fuelling at that throttle opening.
hi when you cleaned the t160 zenor diode up, did you use thermal paste to put it back together, you didn't mention that, maybe it doesn't matter. i didn't either. love your vids btw.
Hi there. I didn't use thermal paste on it at all. I did later convert the bike to a modern combined rectifier/regulator unit though as it works much better, but I left the Zener diode in place for looks
How is the customers t150 engine build doing??
Unavoidable delay at the engineers'. Hopefully collecting the crankshaft tomorrow and starting reassembly over the weekend. 👍👍🤞🤞
Never seen the paint job as your bike. Original or custom? I really like the original yellow and white. If you ever want to sell - let me know.
Thanks. The tank was custom painted at 8 ball paints in Derby.