I have the Tekna Pro lite and the WS400. After buying the WS 400, I turned my Tekna into a base gun. The Tekna can do it all very well but the WS400 is way better at clear. I thought as a beginner, i wouldn't be able to tell the difference but It blew me away. Thanks for the videos
It would be cool to see an objectively better gun thats easiest to get the best finish out of, that also has desirability. To me, as a DIYer, it makes more sense to spend a lot on the best possible gun for the best possible finish, then sell it after for a couple hundred dollar loss at the end of the project. In terms of a paint job, a couple hundred bucks isnt a lot of money, but it gives you the best chance at doing a nice job. Just something to consider for us amateurs trying to get good results out of a cheap gun thats a challenge (but possible) for pros who know exactly how a gun should work and how to compensate for shortcomings of a product.
I have a 4500. My fav gun. Slow but it’s still my fav by far. My old tekna copper was something special but idk. I’m still a sagola fan especially the no gasket part to dry out or crack or leak
I got my new 4600 digital in a 1.2xl last week. I cannot complain with the way the gun sprays, I could even say that it sprays marginally better than my digital 4600 xtreme. I do not know about the non digital versions but my xtreme weighs 543 grams with the PPS 1 adapter on it. My new 4600 weighs 547 grams with the same PPS 1 adapter on it. The guns are of the exact same physical dimensions. The handle on the xtreme is much more intricately machined and physically appealing to me than on the new 4600. The rest of the gun appears to be exactly the same. The needles and nozzle sets are exactly the same and interchangeable between the 2 guns. The only difference is that the threading for the air cap is different on the new 4600. And the air cap centers are different. Having said this, I cannot see why you cannot take the center of the air cap off and fit it to an xtreme air cap shell and have the xtreme spray exactly like the new 4600. Great review and great painting lessons Brian!! Thank you.
I was a painter for 27 years ( been out of it for almost 10 years now ) and I can’t believe the prices of these guns anymore! I was recently looking to pick up a 1.7 tip set for my Sata 3000 to spray some alkyd Wb urethane on some trim in a room I’m re doing in my house and almost fell over when I found out that tip set was $375!!!🤯 W…T….F!?!? Sata leads the pack in insane pricing for sure but everyone else seems to be catching up pretty quick now……everyone’s out for blood since “the pandemic”……Bidenomics??? ( don’t even wanna go there 😏) I used to buy whole guns for less than that lol Crazy, but these Sagolas look nice. I’d have to be working flat rate still and knocking out a ton of hours consistently for that to not hurt. I’d probably still reach for an RP though personally. I ended up picking up a cheapo A610 Aeropro off Amazon for $75 with 3 tip sets, regulator, pps adapter , etc. and for the $ that friggin gun shoots nice!
Sagola wants a lot of money for their spray guns now which they acted like they werent going to be like that at first. For all they are they want a lot. I use all three DV1 guns, but I also have two Porphis guns that i absolutely love. You should do a review on the Porphis PRD-715 1.3mm for clear coat $250 i dont even use my DV1-C anymore since getting it
Yo uso 2 4600 extreme y una trophy truck. 1 4600 extreme es para y solo pintura al agua boquilla Aqua / aqua pro Y 2 4600 extreme la uso solo para pintura monocapa boquilla de barniz 3 la trophy truck solo e unicamente para barniz (laca) boquilla Titania pro
Just painted a bicycle i sprayed it metalic had tiger stripes everywhere tried to sand it off burn through and i went through that process about 5 times cause id fix one then i would find another one .got it cleared now i sprayed pearl on it it and overlooked it after a burn through and im have to sand the clear back down but at least i got it cleared
I'm a very low experience DIY. My '96 Suburban (Factory red) has done what so very many GM cars and trucks did: The clear coat pealed on all horizontal surfaces (first) and now it is working its way down the door uprights. What method, what gun, do I use to tape off at body seems/lines, sand down (how far?) to original paint, primer?? and then paint and clear my truck so it looks great again? Its California no rust, just peeled due to the sun and cheap clear GM put on for about a decade! Thank you for any help. Especially what gun to purchase. I will be painting my old CRX and my '85 Chevy full size pick up as well when the Suburban is done. I will be painting in my driveway as that is all I have.
HELP, something important confuses me so much. So, I’m from uk. Im english. I need to know, as literally everywhere on the internet says one thing, and my job as a painter at an insurance garage says another, what IS sealer, and also, what IS wet on wet??? Is sealer for you in the US, and whenever I see you spray it on your channel, is that the same thing as the wet in wet primer I use here in the UK. Also, is wet on wet just a technique, or a specific product that does a particular job, that nothing else can do? Because we have wet on wet primers at work, about 5 different shades of it, and it looks like the sealer you use. Super smooth and thin with zero build to it. But sealer in the uk is the glue that goes around the edges of brand new panels with a squidge squirt gun thing and disposable nozzles. At work we use wet on wet primers, but literally everywhere in the internet says it’s just a method or a way of spraying to save time and that it is not a specific product, and that any primer can be wet on wetted if you spray it a certain way.
Man. I always watch you when I’m about to start a paint job. I have such a tendency to run clear and orange peel ts out of it. Wide open at 22 psi always scares me. Especially with an HVLP
I know this has nothing to do with the video but can anyone help me,I need help finding which body filled is the best restoring a 63 c10 and I’m at my prepping stages
Hi Brian. I love your channel... So much great information. I have a question. If i paint my truck one panel at a time because I don't have a spry booth or a garage that the truck will fit in. I can pull off the fenders paint them and reinstall. then do the hood. doors etc?
@@PaintSociety I will. You have given me the inspiration to do all the body work and paint my truck. Using all eastwood products. went to their store and the guys were super helpful. Thank you!
Easy to do if you are using a solid (non-metallic) color. If you're using a couple of cans of mixed paint, they can be slightly different, so intermix it all before using it. Then you'd have no problem with the solid paint matching. However, if painting with a metallic color, it's not likely you'll get the metallic to match doing it a panel at a time. Better to paint a metallic with the vehicle together. It can look okay panel by panel, but not as good a match in the metallic pattern from one panel to the other. Depends on how particular you are.
@@grand73am thank you. I have a small garage with a lift. My chevy 1500 barely fits. I have the bed and doors off doing the body work and think im going to make a small plastic curtain spray booth inside. ZI think it will be much better than painting it outside. ordering an inflatable spray booth? but $1k for a single use is not in the budget!
Considering the Sagola is mostly aimed at professionals, am I wrong at seeing the main advantage to the 4600 is the lack of seals, but beyond that, it doesn't seem much different than other spray guns? A good gun nonetheless, but nothing next level in performance.
Hey Brian I'm painting my engine bay and looking to mix the clear in the paint. I saw the video you did a while back. I thought I saved it. Can't fine it. Help
@@ronnierobinson9960 I spray clear the 1.5 coat method, usually running on fog lamp holes grill slots etc and if I make more than what I need for the bumper and use it on a fender for the same job I run it too there
1st coat. Clear-"I'm feeling a bit dry today" 2nd coat. Brian-"Oh no,my liquid friend." Close and slow,or what we call hammering it on. Hahaha we see you...😂
Now with the war in Iran on makes zero difference what ever war is going we in Australia are paying Top prices for everything Food,Petrol,Cars,living expenses are over the Top and it will keep getting worse and worse that is the way it is now.
PLEASE READ. I need some help with understanding your vocabulary because I cannot fully take on board your advice because what you say doesn't make sense sometimes because I'm from uk where we use vastly different words to the ones you use. Anyway here are my issues>>>>>> I'm in the UK and here there is no such thing as a clear basecoat here. However, you can easily find blending thinners and fade out thinners. Are these 2 items however the same thing as eachother? Here, I know both of them can blend clear coats for little blow in repairs for where you don't clear edge to edge, but as far as I know, neither of them are used for blending base. In fact, there's no products whatsoever as far as I know that are made to do the same job as what "clear base" does it your video. Even sealer, for us in the uk, I believe from what I can tell in your videos, is literally just what we would call wet on wet primer here. Help me figure these things out please because I love watching your content and nobody else's but I can't grasp your terminology compared to ours here in England. So far l've figured out that reducer means thinners. Reducer is not a term that is used at all here in the UK. Thinners is the only term over here. Furthermore, are either 1 of these types of thinners, (or both of them) the same as what you say "clear base coat" is? It's just that it's just the English terminology for it or something? Also in terms of the US, is clear base coat and blending additive literally the same thing or 2 different products that do the same thing? Please help me out.
I have the Tekna Pro lite and the WS400. After buying the WS 400, I turned my Tekna into a base gun. The Tekna can do it all very well but the WS400 is way better at clear. I thought as a beginner, i wouldn't be able to tell the difference but It blew me away.
Thanks for the videos
I use the original ws400 supernova for sealer, base, and clear. Been using it for 3 years. I love it.
Not my favorite for base but love it for sealer and clear for sure
And you Will use it another 5years without any problem
The company that you work they should be be very proud to have you working for them your the best
It would be cool to see an objectively better gun thats easiest to get the best finish out of, that also has desirability. To me, as a DIYer, it makes more sense to spend a lot on the best possible gun for the best possible finish, then sell it after for a couple hundred dollar loss at the end of the project. In terms of a paint job, a couple hundred bucks isnt a lot of money, but it gives you the best chance at doing a nice job. Just something to consider for us amateurs trying to get good results out of a cheap gun thats a challenge (but possible) for pros who know exactly how a gun should work and how to compensate for shortcomings of a product.
I haven't seen this many TH-cam painters review the same gun since the vevor gun hit the scene. Lol.
I never reviewed that gun
You should've. That spray gun put a lot of spray guns to bed. Especially for the diy.
Where's your paint suit Brian? 😄
@@PaintSociety
I have a 4500. My fav gun. Slow but it’s still my fav by far. My old tekna copper was something special but idk. I’m still a sagola fan especially the no gasket part to dry out or crack or leak
Yeah I’m with you on that I much preferred the 4500 over the current models. Yes exactly that tekna copper with the 7e7 air cap is something else 👌🏽
Do you like the Sagola over the Tekna and why, I have collected a few Tekna like base, primer , and clear
I got my new 4600 digital in a 1.2xl last week. I cannot complain with the way the gun sprays, I could even say that it sprays marginally better than my digital 4600 xtreme. I do not know about the non digital versions but my xtreme weighs 543 grams with the PPS 1 adapter on it. My new 4600 weighs 547 grams with the same PPS 1 adapter on it. The guns are of the exact same physical dimensions. The handle on the xtreme is much more intricately machined and physically appealing to me than on the new 4600. The rest of the gun appears to be exactly the same. The needles and nozzle sets are exactly the same and interchangeable between the 2 guns. The only difference is that the threading for the air cap is different on the new 4600. And the air cap centers are different. Having said this, I cannot see why you cannot take the center of the air cap off and fit it to an xtreme air cap shell and have the xtreme spray exactly like the new 4600. Great review and great painting lessons Brian!! Thank you.
Man i am a side hustle hobby shop guy and i get professional results with the Aero Pro A 610 and the R 500 and use the cheapest POS i can find.
Just got the new 1.3 digital 4600 with the clear pro cap. It is a fantastic gun
12:35 man that’s exactly what I try doing. So glad you go into detail. Always try getting glass on the first pass
End up finding out the hard way. Glad it helped
I was a painter for 27 years ( been out of it for almost 10 years now ) and I can’t believe the prices of these guns anymore! I was recently looking to pick up a 1.7 tip set for my Sata 3000 to spray some alkyd Wb urethane on some trim in a room I’m re doing in my house and almost fell over when I found out that tip set was $375!!!🤯 W…T….F!?!?
Sata leads the pack in insane pricing for sure but everyone else seems to be catching up pretty quick now……everyone’s out for blood since “the pandemic”……Bidenomics??? ( don’t even wanna go there 😏)
I used to buy whole guns for less than that lol
Crazy, but these Sagolas look nice. I’d have to be working flat rate still and knocking out a ton of hours consistently for that to not hurt. I’d probably still reach for an RP though personally.
I ended up picking up a cheapo A610 Aeropro off Amazon for $75 with 3 tip sets, regulator, pps adapter , etc. and for the $ that friggin gun shoots nice!
Sagola wants a lot of money for their spray guns now which they acted like they werent going to be like that at first. For all they are they want a lot. I use all three DV1 guns, but I also have two Porphis guns that i absolutely love. You should do a review on the Porphis PRD-715 1.3mm for clear coat $250 i dont even use my DV1-C anymore since getting it
Thanks for a good paint class!👍🙏
Whats youre thoughts on the gun? How does it compare to the devilbiss tekna?
Which sagola is better 4600 or trophy truck
Yo uso 2 4600 extreme y una trophy truck.
1 4600 extreme es para y solo pintura al agua boquilla Aqua / aqua pro
Y
2 4600 extreme la uso solo para pintura monocapa boquilla de barniz
3 la trophy truck solo e unicamente para barniz (laca) boquilla Titania pro
Just painted a bicycle i sprayed it metalic had tiger stripes everywhere tried to sand it off burn through and i went through that process about 5 times cause id fix one then i would find another one .got it cleared now i sprayed pearl on it it and overlooked it after a burn through and im have to sand the clear back down but at least i got it cleared
I got to use the new 4600 digital 1.2 in a paint class recently, absolutely loved it but not worth the price tag to me
I'm a very low experience DIY. My '96 Suburban (Factory red) has done what so very many GM cars and trucks did: The clear coat pealed on all horizontal surfaces (first) and now it is working its way down the door uprights. What method, what gun, do I use to tape off at body seems/lines, sand down (how far?) to original paint, primer?? and then paint and clear my truck so it looks great again? Its California no rust, just peeled due to the sun and cheap clear GM put on for about a decade! Thank you for any help. Especially what gun to purchase. I will be painting my old CRX and my '85 Chevy full size pick up as well when the Suburban is done. I will be painting in my driveway as that is all I have.
Hi the sagola for wet on wet which model is better for super flat finish. I'm torn between the 3100 or the 4100 thanks
Do you usually let paint dry before removing tape, or try to pull it sooner. Is it dependent on type… base, or clear etc? Thx!
Pull next day. I dont have anything bridging because i remove everything
These are NICE guns but sure do love my SATA 5500 XJet 1.3i.
HELP, something important confuses me so much. So, I’m from uk. Im english. I need to know, as literally everywhere on the internet says one thing, and my job as a painter at an insurance garage says another, what IS sealer, and also, what IS wet on wet??? Is sealer for you in the US, and whenever I see you spray it on your channel, is that the same thing as the wet in wet primer I use here in the UK. Also, is wet on wet just a technique, or a specific product that does a particular job, that nothing else can do? Because we have wet on wet primers at work, about 5 different shades of it, and it looks like the sealer you use. Super smooth and thin with zero build to it. But sealer in the uk is the glue that goes around the edges of brand new panels with a squidge squirt gun thing and disposable nozzles. At work we use wet on wet primers, but literally everywhere in the internet says it’s just a method or a way of spraying to save time and that it is not a specific product, and that any primer can be wet on wetted if you spray it a certain way.
Sir Brian. Just an inquiry. What is the code of the adopter that you are using in this new sagola gun.?
Man. I always watch you when I’m about to start a paint job. I have such a tendency to run clear and orange peel ts out of it. Wide open at 22 psi always scares me. Especially with an HVLP
Use a 1.2 😀😀😀
On the Rise in Australia over the Top if you purchase the Base Gun plus the Primer Gun plus the Clear gun for a DIY its a fortune Expensive A1 Brain.
Love these videos.
Do you have a pressure pot recommendation?
I know this has nothing to do with the video but can anyone help me,I need help finding which body filled is the best restoring a 63 c10 and I’m at my prepping stages
Hi Brian. I love your channel... So much great information. I have a question. If i paint my truck one panel at a time because I don't have a spry booth or a garage that the truck will fit in. I can pull off the fenders paint them and reinstall. then do the hood. doors etc?
Yes. But make sure you have the same exact ground coat or undercoat otherwise it might not match
@@PaintSociety I will. You have given me the inspiration to do all the body work and paint my truck. Using all eastwood products. went to their store and the guys were super helpful. Thank you!
Easy to do if you are using a solid (non-metallic) color. If you're using a couple of cans of mixed paint, they can be slightly different, so intermix it all before using it. Then you'd have no problem with the solid paint matching. However, if painting with a metallic color, it's not likely you'll get the metallic to match doing it a panel at a time. Better to paint a metallic with the vehicle together. It can look okay panel by panel, but not as good a match in the metallic pattern from one panel to the other. Depends on how particular you are.
@@grand73am thank you. I have a small garage with a lift. My chevy 1500 barely fits. I have the bed and doors off doing the body work and think im going to make a small plastic curtain spray booth inside. ZI think it will be much better than painting it outside. ordering an inflatable spray booth? but $1k for a single use is not in the budget!
Considering the Sagola is mostly aimed at professionals, am I wrong at seeing the main advantage to the 4600 is the lack of seals, but beyond that, it doesn't seem much different than other spray guns? A good gun nonetheless, but nothing next level in performance.
that is just one of many great characteristics, it is an elite spray gun and no its not like any other guns i think its the best gun out there !
Do you have any experience with C.A. Technologies guns? Also, do you know the solids percentage on your clear?
Can you also do a wet bed with waterborne paint?
Do you have links as where you can buy this product on line? ... I live in New Zealand Cheers
Do you have any vid on solvent poping especially with hs clear and 2k paint
I use black etch primer
What was the line on the rear door? it almost looks like a primer line or something.
Its the angle of the light with the camera. I notice the same thing when editing
What you're referring to at 13:30 is called facelift lol. Killer video👍🏼
Not a complete redesign. Just small changes
Using some cheapo guns will definitely hone your skills and patience. Once you get a decent gun you feel invincible lol
Hey Brian I'm painting my engine bay and looking to mix the clear in the paint. I saw the video you did a while back. I thought I saved it. Can't fine it. Help
Hi, sorry maybe that wasn’t me, I have never mix clear coat with paint
I usually only watch your channel. Thanks
Should review the Iwata Wider 4L at half the price of the LPH-400; I own both guns and I cant tell the difference :) Cheers
i’ve got the 2L wider not really a fan of it. love the LPH-400
Hey brian how do i get one of those guns
I would be very interested in a video on flex additive clear coats. I just started as a painter and have a lot of issues with running them
Are you running it on thr first coat or 2nd?
@@ronnierobinson9960 I spray clear the 1.5 coat method, usually running on fog lamp holes grill slots etc and if I make more than what I need for the bumper and use it on a fender for the same job I run it too there
What do you think about walcom 360?
Its a fantastic gun
Good work
ARE YOU IN FLORIDA?
1st coat.
Clear-"I'm feeling a bit dry today"
2nd coat.
Brian-"Oh no,my liquid friend." Close and slow,or what we call hammering it on. Hahaha we see you...😂
Love it!
I apply 1coat of base first before spraying the base blender
U are the best paint
Brian, I don't see the new 4600 for sale anywhere as yet but I do want to get it and sell my old 4600
Its coming soon! I will work on getting an exact date
Have you ever sprayed with using the Devilbiss GPG paint gun and what do you think about it ?
Now with the war in Iran on makes zero difference what ever war is going we in Australia are paying Top prices for everything Food,Petrol,Cars,living expenses are over the Top and it will keep getting worse and worse that is the way it is now.
Houses?
@@paulcoote3094indeed plus Loans all of it.
Made in España
Muy buenas por cierto.
Not hating but dang , why notnjust blend the top half of the door only its a tiny spot.
I said this in the video. Ty
Fangs for dhe tips help me a lot ant wil help on dhe smart Rep van 😅😅😅
Nice😊
Really overpriced in Australia it's a fortune.
Price's...really
❤❤❤
❤❤❤❤❤❤
#hepoops
PLEASE READ. I need some help with understanding your vocabulary because I cannot fully take on board your advice because what you say doesn't make sense sometimes because I'm from uk where we use vastly different words to the ones you use. Anyway here are my issues>>>>>> I'm in the UK and here there is no such thing as a clear basecoat here. However, you can easily find blending thinners and fade out thinners. Are these 2 items however the same thing as eachother?
Here, I know both of them can blend clear coats for little blow in repairs for where you don't clear edge to edge, but as far as I know, neither of them are used for blending base. In fact, there's no products whatsoever as far as I know that are made to do the same job as what "clear base" does it your video. Even sealer, for us in the uk, I believe from what I can tell in your videos, is literally just what we would call wet on wet primer here. Help me figure these things out please because I love watching your content and nobody else's but I can't grasp your terminology compared to ours here in England. So far l've figured out that reducer means thinners. Reducer is not a term that is used at all here in the UK. Thinners is the only term over here. Furthermore, are either 1 of these types of thinners, (or both of them) the same as what you say "clear base coat" is? It's just that it's just the English terminology for it or something? Also in terms of the US, is clear base coat and blending additive literally the same thing or 2 different products that do the same thing?
Please help me out.
They are different. You need something called intercoat clear. Whats the paint brand you are spraying