Worcester Greenstar - How To Change / Replace The Return Manifold / Block / Unit
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 9 ก.พ. 2025
- Breakdown & Wiring Book: book.advancedb...
There's a few reasons you might want to remove or change the return manifold. The most common are:
It has pin-holed and is leaking
The PRV is stuck in and you can't remove it. Removing the return block will give you better leverage to repair the PRV.
These resources will teach you how to diagnose and fix any boiler: signup.advance...
Mine started leaking this week. This is useful to see what the engineer had to do. Boiler engineers are surgeons! Thank you for keeping us all warm!
Even though this post was two year ago, I finished my job today according this video step by step. I watched many times for practicing, Thank you!
Class video, never done one until today - followed it step by step. Thank you very much you got me out of the shit today and I learnt a thing or two.
Glad it helped!
really helped me there pal thank you took me 3 hours to do before and 45 mins to do watching this thank you
💪
As a installer not a breack down engineer I was able to follow this video and do the job thanks again
Got one of these to do tomorrow. Been told they're a pain. Ty for the vid m8 😊
Hi, Indeed a great video, and very well put forward! ...the only thing I did notice, when handling the main body, the small valve came out and went under the boiler unit, though you did find it and placed it by your grease tin! ...if this boiler is to be used again, this will need fitting! ...again, great video.
Whete does that bypass restrictor go please struggling to figure it out
Brilliant video, my return manifold is leaking, so this is really helpful.
Really great video, takes the guessing out of what to do next. Had to give a recent job over to someone else as I didn't have access to the video. Now I would be far more confident to attack a manifold replacement.
Thanks for sharing this mate. Absolute legend
Legend just fixed my outlet manifold 🤟👍
If you remove the bypass pipe from the return manifold ( rather than the left side of the block), you don't need to remove the water pressure gauge or the expansion vessel braided hose from the pump body. Just pull the pump off the return manifold and sit the pump where the condensate trap normally sits. This came from our tech, who said you can cause damage when removing the pressure gauge and braided hose. I did my first return manifold 2 days ago and did it this way and it went without a hitch.
Your video was a huge help, mate. I only had to watch it twice and was able to change the return manifold in good time. I've subscribed to your channel and will get a look at your other videos 😊
Love these videos, keep them coming 🙌🏼
Thanks Haroon!
Nice one haroon
Changed my first one on Friday thanks to this video! Only thing I did differently was remove the cold pipe first before doing the pump clamp etc which was a lot easier, thank you again!🫡
Thanks mate, very helpfull video
What a Brilliant vid....Top Job! Helped me out loads.
Excellent video, well explained
Thanks Mark!💪
Great video, wish l seen it before, don't my first r h b last week but took out left hand out aswell as one unit with pump attached, took a while to realise the orv was stopping the unit from coming out .Still got the cuts to show for my troubles 😂🤣
Oh no😂 you’ve just got to love Worcester 🤷🏽♂️
newly qualified as gas registered . and first job is this leaking.
watching this hope i will be ok 😂.
thanks for great video
How did it go
@@jacko2815 great! thanks for great help. :)
Great video
Good oh I will be doing this today,thanks for that sir
Good luck!!
Like the video mate. Subscribed waiting for more videos
Brilliant vid helped me out so much👌 after fitting new manifold flow on central heating gets hot when run dhw the pipes hot but not radiators. Had new diverter on new manifold could this be sticking?
I had an absolute nightmare with one of these earlier today. I found it almost impossible to get everything lined up again. When I finally got everything back in position and tightened up again, I turned the mains water on and water was still coming out of the heat exchanger/return unit connections. I had to leave it till tomorrow. Absolute pain in the hole.
Thanks for your help and efforts.
Top man..much appreciated 👍👍👃
Do you not need to take bypass restrictor out of old manifold and use in the new manifold
Hi
Notice u have had a couple of criticism comments . Do not get discouraged by the ignorance of some people. The only way to learn is by some one teaching u or self learn.
So get an old boiler and strip it just the way ur doing cheep up the good work
My only advice is there’s always a tool which makes ur life easier to do the job so invest in that tool
Hey Paul, thanks for the support.
Yeah that’s one thing I’ve learnt over the years, you’re only as good as your tools.
Brilliant video!
Later type unit as the longer syphon, new type fan fitted, overall that visually looks in good condition still, no visible excessive heat damage to the heat cell, and easier when they are dry too. good vid tho. Nice dark orange staining on the inside of the pump connection part of the return unit, and rear lower seal, defiantly a water quality issue on that system it was fitted on.
Great video 🙏 thank you
Your solenoid looks really high.. mine looks really low.. I commented on yoir other video just. I replaced the right hand unit/turbine, refilled and I've got a mostly off blue light and a 2 flash red. No ignition. Its locked off... i followerd everything you said.. Any ideas, Sir?
Not a bad example. You did miss a few tip points in my eyes. But I suppose that's because it was a scrap boiler that's not going to be water tight again. But not a bad reference for someone who hasn't done them before. Just to say, I've changed hundreds and hundreds of these. So I do know what I'm talking about
Can you do mine . Based in Manchester
Whats the tips? Haha
tell up plz.
The most disastrous boilers to challenge a part
It's just a case of the more you work on them the easier it gets I love working on them and know them inside out
how on earth did you put that return pipe back in so easily, the one under the drain off, took me a lot of sweat, after about 30 mins I gave up and used the original o ring and still it was a right pain
Did you use grease? Sometimes fairy (not ideal) can make it easier
@@advancedboilertraining used all that stuff, no joy, in the end I used the original o ring and used that retaining clip to keep one side down whilst I pushed the other one in. Right pain.
I have problems with this as well full stop for a start it wasn't easy at all to get the metal bit back into the right-hand block and then when I did and I mounted the right-hand block when I tightened the bolt onto the frame it seems or it looked as though it was pulling the o-ring back out again so worried it was going to leak
I don't see much reason to take gas pipe out? Can make can of worms